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Wifi analyser. Many wifi routers are using a factory default channel, meaning you can end up in situation where most wifi in an apartment building are basically jamming each others.
Also gives you cool graphs so even your grandma can understand the issue.
You download the app WiFi analyzer on your phone, check out which channels are super full, then you go to your routers wireless settings, change the channel to manual and choose a channel which no other WiFi networks. Done.
Edit: WiFi Analyzer by Farproc
Edit2: Its because the WiFis interfere with each other and get slower exponentially the further you are away from the router, because the relatively stronger signals from the other router interfere your signal. Doesnt matter when you have a small 55 m² apartment like i do, but if you have connection problems over a longer distance you can probably solve the problem by doing what i mentioned above.
If you still have a bad connection dont use WiFi-Extending-Shitunits and better use an Accespoint and lay a long cable properly once instead of the hazzle of always resetting and repositioning the extenders. These guys mostly cause more trouble and extend the bad signal they get. If you still want to use one of those atleast use them in the MIDDLE between your Router and the Computer using it. Not right next to the Computer, otherwise it will tune up the shit signal and your computer will show you 10/10 WiFi but internet is still not good.
Edit3: I forgot DLan - Internet over your power line, but it depends hardly on the wiring on your house but maybe its worth a look. I dont know many people that had a really good connection with that. E.g. you turn on the microwave and your character in CS:GO is porting through CT spawn because of that lol
Obligatory sorry 4 bad engrish am not mothertonk and drunken litel bit
If we're talking wifi specifically, do a wifi spectrum analysis with a free app and discover what channels your neighbors' networks are operating on. Change your router's settings and make sure yours is on the least crowded channel. You'll have less interference and should have better connectivity.
Edit: If you're using your phone to run the spectrum analysis, check out Wifi Analyzer. If you're doing it from your laptop or PC, check out Wifi Info View.
Generally stick to channels 1, 6, or 11 if you can. If not, check your throughput with the router set to other channels to see if any of them are better than where you started.
And yes, operating on the 5GHz spectrum is preferable above all other options. 802.11ac operates only in the 5GHz band.
It's got to be the Wifi. When you're in this "portal" you're near a wifi AP with an SSID / MAC that matches one in Atlanta GA. MAC addresses are supposed to be unique, but when manufacturers are given a limited pool that they can use, they will sometimes reuse them but ship those products to different parts of the world to avoid network conflicts.
If you want to confirm this, get something like Wifi Analyzer and write down / screenshot the MAC addresses that are nearby when this happens. And someone else in that spot in Atlanta do the same thing. You'll probably find a match.
This makes a huge difference if you live somewhere with shared walls between units. I use the "Wifi analyzer" app on Android to check which channels are being used by neighbors.
Wifi Analizer, para descubrir cómo llega el Wifi a cierta zona de tu casa. La App arma un gráfico con el rendimiento de las redes que haya, y vas a ver cómo cambia a medida que te movés.
And now it's again almost unusable in some urban settings. In San Francisco a few days ago I saw probably 30 2.4ghz wifi networks with signal in the same coffee shop (using Wifi Analyzer). And people wonder why their internet is slow... This is why: https://play-fi.com/images/uploads/wifi-analyzer.png
You can use it to find that one spot available (least crowded) in the wireless spectrum for the best WiFi-signal when setting up which channels to use. You can also use it to find weak signal shadows as they change with different positions of sender and receiver in relation to walls and interfering networks.
Wifi Analyzer: On google play
Havent understood your case fully but ill do my rant.
Receiving 100% is a Windows 8/10 stupidity. Download "wifi analyzer " app (windows and android only) to understand the signal strength.
The usual problem is, the extender uses half its bandwidth to capture and other half to transmit. so when it is at a place where it receives, say, 50% of the original routers signal, it uses half its capacity to take that 50 i.e. it can take 25 of that 50 and uses the other half of its capacity to transmit that 25. So inherintly this is not a great model.
instead run a ethernet cable from the downstairs modem's out to upstairs and reconfigure the second modem to be act as an Access Point. should retain maximum speed.
Yes, there are likely to be similarities between apps that do the same thing, but... This app feels like a ripoff of Farproc's Wifi Analyzer which has been out for years. Look at the design choice for the various graphs - it's too similar to be a coincidence.
Download a WiFi channel analyser and see what channel is the most under utilised. What I did for my street.
This is a good app if you have an Android device: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_GB
No, this is a dumb thing. Reducing the frequency of background scans I can agree with, but no way this should be enforced for foreground apps. At least make it a permission. This is going to greatly limit the usefulness of apps like Wifi Analyzer - in this case, you'd have to wait for 30 seconds before you can see the graph update again which is painful say, if you're moving around your premises scanning for signal issues.
Came here to say this. When this happened at my office I used a program from google play store called Wifi Analyzer.
As I walked around the office the app told me if the signal was getting weaker or stronger, until I found the rogue router installed in our Production Manager's office.
If you're in a congested area, you might need to change channels to get better signal. Since you have Android, grab Wifi Analyzer and check how many other networks are around and on the same channel as yours. If there's more than 1 with signal rivaling yours, try to change to a channel that has NO overlap with other APs. If there's just too many to do that, try buying your own wireless router and use 5GHz instead of 2.4GHz. The range is a bit lower because of poorer wall penetration, but if 2.4GHz is crowded, it will resolve your issues.
That's of course assuming that the problem only happens over WiFi. In any case, you'll still probably be better off with 5GHz since you're getting that kind of signal in the same room as the AP.
>This is the ONLY app on google play that will map your network in a graphical display!
I saw that as well. I use this, and literally the first screenshot is a Wifi graph.
I recommend checking your WiFi network's signal-to-noise ratio. This is different from signal strength. Even if you have full bars on your phone, the area you're in may have enough WiFi noise that your phone or router can't "hear" an individual packet, causing the packet to get dropped. This is especially likely if you live in a crowded environment with many networks and phones, like an apartment complex or college campus.
If you have an iPhone/iPad, you can use AirPort Utility to view your signal-to-noise ratio. If you have an Android device, you can use Wifi Analyzer.
You generally want your signal to be greater than -50 dBm, and your noise to be less than -80 dBm. If your noise is higher than -80 dBm, you'll want to switch WiFi channels on your router to find one that's less noisy. That will involve logging into your router and finding its admin page. I can log into my router by going to 192.168.1.1 in my browser, but yours may be different.
You could use something like this Android App to view the signal strength coming from each AP (listed by MAC address). You can play hotter/colder with a specific MAC address and the Signal meter (change the scan interval in settings to the shortest interval).
There's only a finite amount of spectrum on 2.4GHz. In the US, there are 11 available channels. However, the Wi-Fi signal is wider than the width of a channel, so the most you can fit in the available spectrum is 3 signals, side by side, on channels 1, 6, and 11. In a fully-managed environment like a corporate or campus network, access points will be set up so that adjacent APs are on different channels, and they'll be sited to provide the best coverage given the layout of the building, without interfering with each other.
In an unmanaged area like an apartment, on the other hand, people just set up their access points willy-nilly, broadcasting at needlessly high power levels, and on whatever channel they please. Some routers even have an automatic channel selection function - sounds great in theory, until you realize that those algorithms don't limit themselves to 1, 6, and 11, and so those routers end up causing interference to two other networks, instead of just one. Rogue access points in a managed network have the same effect - they're usually crappy home-grade routers, and have definitely not been accounted for by the network admin, so they end up causing more problems than they solve.
You can see this in action for yourself, if you have an Android phone. Install Wi-Fi Analyzer and open it - it'll show you all of the networks nearby, and which channel they're on. If you do that in your apartment, you'll notice that access points are scattered all up and down the spectrum. If you try it at a large business or a college campus - anywhere big enough to have an IT person managing their network - you'll notice that APs are nicely divided up into 1, 6, and 11, and there aren't nearly as many dead spots in coverage as you get in your apartment.
TL;DR: It's the difference between a well-moderated panel discussion and a 50-way shouting match.
That's normal more than likely.
The 2.4ghz network is very crowded. If you live in an apartment or if you live in a neighborhood chances are the wifi is saturated.
Everybody and their grandmother has a wireless router these days.
There are only 11 channels available for 2.4ghz and only 3 that don't interfere with each other.
If you want to see what the channels look like, check out this AP:
I assume that the community and Purism will make all the common programs, so I'm not going to list those here. Will instead list programs that I know I want, not knowing whether anyone will make them:
a hiking GPS app (like Gaia or Backcountry Explorer)
various calculators, which I'm assuming will be easy to create from Linux versions
a timing program, with timer and stopwatch
an alarm program, for waking up in the morning!
a port of Google Earth would be super cool, and maybe it's possible since it already exists in Linux
I've got an Android program called ISS detector, which I love having since I camp a lot, and it's fun to point it out to people who have never seen it
A birding program like iBird or Merlin on Android. This requires a massive database, so I don't know if it's possible with cooperation with one of the companies that already make these kinds of apps
a simple music player, like Music Folder Player for Android
A night time screen darkener that's easy to use, like Night Owl for Android
A simple photo editor/viewer, like Pix on linux
a QR code scanner, like QR Droid
a shared shopping list program, like "Our Groceries Shopping List" on Android
a sky astronomy program, like SkEye or Sky Map
Someone needs to make sure that Syncthing will run on Librem
it would be really neat to have a program like Wifi Analyzer (Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
a simple audio recording program, that will save microphone audio to an mp3 or something like that
------edited for spelling
If you're in an apartment the chances are your wifi is being interfered with (OOeer) by your neighbours wifi. Use an app like this to figure out where the clear bandwidth is and switch the channel of your wifi in your routers configuration.
Try manually setting the router to a different 5 GHz channel. Use Wifi Analyzer to check for the current and recommended channels.
It's probably set to a crowded channel. Use WiFi Analyzer to figure out a better channel, which you can set in your router's settings.
Yep, the farpoc Wifi Analyzer is literal malware. I had it installed on my phone all of a sudden the app started controlling itself and then eventually my phone.
You should try using an app like this. It will tell you the frequencies and channels your neighbours are using on their routers. Change your router to a channel that's less used or not used at all. You'll get much less interference.
There are two, and I use both. (I'm an EE, I have had to use them both for work.)
WiFi Analyzer is the one that shows channels.
WifIAnalyzer shows the speeds of the networks.
Refuto tudo que você diz e por favor, não faça mais esse tipo de recomendação as pessoas.
> A NET não é um bom provedor de internet.
Errado, dentre os grandes, é um bom provedor sim. É o mais avançado na adoção de IPv6 e diferentemente do senso comum, não faz traffic shaping e entrega 100% da banda contratada. E olha que ODEIO o grupo econômico que é dono dele (Grupo Claro). É meu concorrente.
> Dificilmente é culpa do roteador
Muitas vezes é. A função de WiFi dos modems+roteadores disponíveis no mercado é bem inferior a um roteador wireless na faixa dos R$1k.
> O roteador periodicamente muda o canal de transmissão a fim de otimizar a comunicação
Isso jamais deve ser feito aleatoriamente. Logo, sua recomendação piora o problema em vez de ajudar. Tem que se verificar o canal mais ocioso na área de cobertura que se deseja e escolher ele. Só fazer mudanças baseados em medições.
> Tente desabilitar o IPv6 de sua máquina e veja se faz diferença.
Desabilitar o IPv6 é como desabilitar o freio ABS do carro. É um recurso importante que está ali por um motivo. Não desligue ambos.
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This is probably the correct answer, OP. Got lots of neighbors? WiFi spectrum is probably crowded. If you have an android device, use this app to find a better channel for your router.
Download wifi analyzer from the google play store and check out the signal strength of all the networks in your area. Choose a channel where the available networks are the weakest to put your own network on it (less interference).
WiFi Analyzer is useful for detecting WiFi signals if you have an Android device handy. What you mean by "covert WIFI signals" is a whole other question.
I use WiFi Analyzer for this but not for the reasons you stated.
Everyone else here is bringing up a valid point... Why delete any? Why are you even looking at them? lol stop looking at a long lasting historical list of your saved networks unless you need to. Why would you need to?
I use applying aliases because there are times I'm using a network with many AP that all have the same name. I like to name the "good ones" something specific to the area of building I'm in so I can distinguish them easily. So for me the real issue was stock Android doesn't split same named networks by mac addresses.
It may be best to set your wifi router to auto and let it pick a channel that's relatively free.
But if you want to manually adjust it you can use an app like this one (android):
To scan surrounding wireless networks. It shows how densely populated the different channels are. You also get a visual representation of the overlap.
You can then manually pick a channel if your router allows this. My router allows me to selected all channels from 1-13, but I still keep it on auto because it works well enough.
Get a wifi analyzer app, like this one for Android:
You'll want an app that will show wifi signal to noise strength over time.
Launch the app to monitor your wifi reception, then turn on the toothbrush. It's best to have someone standing still with the app, while someone else moves the toothbrush around, to see if it's the source of interference.
Here's an earlier thread about this same app, from the last time it was on sale about a month ago:
This app appears to draw heavily from (ie copy) many aspects of Farproc's Wifi Analyzer which has been out for years. Yes, there's only so many ways to design a Wi-Fi analyzer, but this "premium" app uses many key design elements from Farproc's older and well-established standard.
Are you making the proper distinction between mega*bits* and mega*bytes*? Connection speed (speedtest.net, etc) is usually measured in the former while individual downloads are measured in the latter.
If your connection speed measured 5.55 megabits, then your situation wouldn't be abnormal (= 694 kilobytes).
I acknowledge that you said it was faster at one point, but I'm just double checking. A connection can temporarily spike sometimes.
Other issues I can think of:
You might want to check to make sure nothing else in your house might be steadily downloading something. ISPs may have something along the line that's prioritizing the speed test. Depending on your router's firmware, you might be able to look at which devices are using bandwidth (dd-wrt has various monitors for this).
If you're connecting wirelessly, try plugging your computer directly into the modem and testing if you're downloading any faster. If there is a discrepancy and signal strength isn't the problem, and you have close neighbors, check that your wifi isn't colliding with theirs. There are tools like this that visualize the channels that access points in your vicinity are broadcasting on; if there's some overlap, you can try changing the channel in your router's settings. Channel overlap has definitely caused weird things to happen to me in the past.
Why not use a wifi site monitor app on your phone and walk around until the signal gets stronger?
I used this to figure out which 5hz channels to avoid.
O desenho ajuda, mas é a realidade da medição do sinal no próprio local que vai mostrar onde o sinal chega bem ou chega mal.
Tem que ligar o roteador (não precisa estar conectado na internet) e usar o app Wifi Analyzer pra ir te mostrando a intensidade do sinal enquanto você perambula pelo local.
Como o seu mapinha na mão, vai pintando ou anotando as medições. Faz um mapa pra cada posição do roteador.
Nota: o app é pra android; o iphone proíbe esse tipo de app. Daí tem que instalar um equivalente num notebook.
Habites-tu dans un bloc appartement?
Si c'est le cas, peux importe le fournisseur, t'auras toujours des problèmes de Wi-Fi à cause que l'espace réseau est saturé par tout le monde sur les même chaînes.
Si tu as un téléphone Android, télécharge une application pour vérifier que sont les chaînes utilisées et libres. (Exemple : Wifi Analyzer ou WiFiman )
2.4 GHz WLAN (802.11b) uses channels 22MHz wide, see: Wikipedia
If routers in your area occupy more channels than one router at channel 1, one at 6 and one at 11/12/13, the signals will start interfering. This means communication between your router and your PC will be less reliable, which could cause ping spikes and/or lower data speeds.
You can use an app like wifianalzyer to see which channels are occupied in your area and set the channel of your router to an unoccupied channel.
ok so wifi is approximately on 2.4 Ghz. but not exactly. the wifi standard has a certain bandwidth, lets say 100 Mhz (real value is probably different) so it would go from 2.35 to 2.45 Ghz. now you can slice this bandwidth up into channels. so channel 1 is 2.35, channel 2 would be 2.36 and so on. if everyone is sending on one and the same frequency youre not going to go anywhere.
how to check your channels: there are many smartphone apps that can tell you the channels of the different wifis. search for some wifi analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en)
if your wifi is on the same channels as others, change it to a channel that is still free. usually people dont know about this and just let the router choose a channel (which oddly enough will always be the same). so if you change the channel, your wifi will magically work better.
If you have an Android phone, try this app to see how strong your wifi signal is in different parts of your house. It's best to have your router up high and away from steel/concrete/microwave ovens.
It's possible that someone nearby has a more powerful signal on the wifi channel you're using, which would affect your connection - try channel 1, 6, and 11 to see which gives you the best results at www.speedtest.net .
This is a great tip. Wifi Analysis will do this quickly on Android (free, great reviews) or if you want to get a bit more technical and generate a pretty map, try Ekahau Heatmapper on a laptop (free for non-commercial use).
WiFi Analyzer for android is OK for a quick overview. It's got a little signal meter you can use to track down specific APs.
Not terribly sensitive, but gives a decent indication whereabouts you should be checking.
Wifi would be heavily influenced by your environment. Try playing 2.4 Ghz wifi in an apartment building...nice card or not. :P
That said, I play on wifi just fine at home on 2.4 Ghz.
Also, I recommend WifiAnalyzer as a usefull tool for seeing what is going on around you. Sometimes your router is in a spot where it thinks it's on the best channel, but the spot your computer is located might notice other signals that the router cannot.
Try logging into the router and changing the wifi channel, if you're in a block there could be a bunch of competing networks causing interference.
If you have an android phone you can download wifi analyzer, which will show you a graph like this, try and pick the channel with the least amount of networks using it.
From the Google Play description:
>Note that this app should only be installed on the Robot Controller ZTE Speed (which is the WiFi Direct group owner).
Wifi is spread across multiple channels
The idea is that you want to not have everyone using the same channel to help reduce radio congestion. While you can use a wifi channel scanner to see what channels are being used it's really going to be up to the field admins at the event to let you know if you should change to a different channel. The best way to keep things even and fair is for them to keep track of which team is using which channel. If they don't tell you to change your channel you might ask if it's Ok to pick one yourself. At our first qualifier they specifically told us to change channels. At our second qualifier and at the state championship the topic never came up.
Are you playing at your home or somewhere else (school campus, dorms, etc).
Also is the mac connected wirelessly?
If both are wireless does it work better when you are right next to the router?
Do you have multiple connections registered on your devices? For example my router has one connection for 2.4GHz and one for 5.0GHz. I erased one of the connections from my device so that it wouldn't jump between them.
If you are on campus you may be dealing with interference from other nearby routers on the same channel. I use this app when I need to check that kinda stuff on my own phone.
Yes they need to improve their reconnect code, however if the wifi is a common factor then there may be things you can do right now.
I actually have a 6P myself, when I'm connected via my carrier (so 4g/3g) I don't have any reconnect problems. When playing on my desktop (LAN connection) I don't have any reconnect problems. Also when near my router I don't have any reconnect problems. However I have thick walls in my house and before I got a wireless repeater I had reconnect issues. Additionally my bedroom is at max reliable range, as a result I found that my phone would jump between the 2.4GHz and 5.0GHz connections from my router. I took note of what connection I was on and frequently found it was swapping during reconnects. I change it to only use the 2.4GHz connection and the problem resolved.
No worries, I don't think anyone cares about people posting issues they're having, as long as it's not "Stadia is trash, you all are losers" style. =)
Unfortunately I'm guessing this might be hard for us to help diagnose here since it sounds like a wifi related issue, which could be caused by a billion things. Your better experience on your iPad could be completely down to the iPad having a stronger Wifi signal than your phone. Especially if things have been getting worse over time, my suspicion is there might be wifi interference happening that your router's wifi signal is not able to overcome. As a reminder, 5ghz wifi will almost surely give a better experience than 2.4 ghz.
We can try to help you troubleshoot the router if you post the model etc, but a lot of it will come down to the signal strength. A wifi 6 router is ideal if your devices can support it because there is likely to be little interference, but a good wifi 5 router should work fine as well (I use the Nest Wifi which is great for it).
One way to test would be if you have fewer connection issues when you're really close to the router vs further away.
If you have an android phone, I have used this app to see if there are a lot of competing networks on or near the same wifi channel as mine:
here is the oldest one I've used long ago by farproc, same UI, same stars page, same history page, 95% similar to all others. maybe this app has 1 extra feature?
Register with Wigle.net and see if you can find that MAC address (or a similar one).
Other option is the Wifi Analyzer app on Android, which may help tracking down where this device is.
As already stated, WiFi is terrible at penetrating through objects, so having a wall (or floor) in the way will already reduce your signal.
I don't know what an Apple equivalent is, but there's a free app on Android called WiFi Analyzer that tells you the strength of a WiFi signal in dBm. You can go around your home and see where it's weak and strong and try to position the router better in your house using that.
As far as the router itself, angling the antennas differently can help a signal. Also, having 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz on the same antenna can reduce the signal of each other, so you can try going with one of the other if you're able to. 2.4 Ghz has better penetration, but 5 Ghz has better speed.
For not getting your full gigabit speed, routers may have gigabit Ethernet ports on them, but that doesn't always mean the processor can handle that speed. My $200 dedicated router by Ubiquiti can't even do full Gigabit unless I turn off features like Quality of Service because the quad core processor inside of it just isn't powerful enough. The Nighthawk R7000P only has a dual core processor, and it's also trying to handle your WiFi and switching.
The cable company's default modem they send every one has built in 802.11 2.4Ghz spectrum routers that has completely blanketed my neighborhood. "free internet for the random FBI surveillance van that happens to be driving by or subscribers to the same service"
Then the power company had strange men in unmarked windowless white vans from out of state just trespass on to everyone's property and forcefully install wireless smart meters on everyone's home.
Ever since this the 2.4Ghz spectrum has been completely saturated and almost unusable in the same room as my high power wireless modem. It is like I'm living in a crowded apartment complex.
There is also a mystery 802.11 2.4Ghz channel that follows the channel I put my router on that is almost the same power as seen from a wireless scanning app.
This was no issue up to a couple years ago.
The 5Ghz spectrum is a bit more clean, but I have ahem *legacy devices that don't have the 5Ghz capacity that we still use.
Added a cap of the Wifi scan. Cut out info for privacy.
App called WiFi Analyzer. Pretty neat.
You can find open channels and then tell your router to explicitly broadcast on the open channel to minimize interference.
No guarantee that this is the case but I had this problem too so it is worth giving it a go.
If your router uses both 2.4gHz and 5gHz frequencies, use an Android app called Wifi Analyzer(I don't know of any iPhone alternatives but there are some Windows apps) to see how congested the 2.4gHz network is. If there are too many networks on your channel, try switching to a different one.
Actually many laptops can scan/use 2.4 ghz and 5.8ghz as wifi uses both frequencies. Just depends on the module you have. Going from there to a functioning scanner is a giant leap. I'm doubt most wifi modules even expose the low level stuff.
However, maybe you are looking to just see if peoples wifi routers are dirtying up your channel? You can get an app for your phone that will scan for wifi activity on the various channels and display it to you. This won't show total noise but I imagine that wifi is the biggest pollutant on 2.4 and 5.8.
*Note: Just like laptops not all phones have the ability to use 5.8 ghz wifi. You can find similar apps for Window and Mac if you really want to use your laptop *
I second that. For Android, there is Wifi Analyzer. Install that, go to this screen, then walk around your apartment/house/whatever. Try to find a channel which has the least overall amount of interference from other networks. A lot of routers default to 1, 6, or 11, and the channels only partially overlap, so in a crowded area, I often try 3, 4, 8, or 9, since it might overlap some but there may be no other networks actually on that exact channel.
No, you would want to check the usage of the 2.4GHz frequency range within your area to determine the suitable channel.
For Android users, you can use this Wifi Analyzer app.
Typically you would want to choose any one of the channels 1, 6 and 11. Choosing anything else may have adverse effect on transmission speed on everyone else, not only yours.
If your router / Wifi access point has the setting "auto", it may be better to use that since the router automatically chooses the best channel for you on startup.
That one. I'm on Galaxy S9+ running Android Pie.
I've been planning to try out the VREM version.
Edit: I suspect I just need to give the farproc app location permissions, to get it working. (Yup, that did it.)
Scan , look for the least crowded space and or lowest signal of other wifi's and put it on that channel . same with the 5ghz also .
Probably a lot of people in your area are using the same wifi channels. Consider using 5Ghz or check for uncongested wifi channel in your area using this app for Android and switch to that channel.
Run ethernet cables to your devices (and run the speedtest with a cable connection).
Download the wifi analyzer app and see which channel is best to set your router to.
You need to figure out the source of the problem.
1) How much bandwidth does your ISP provide? (idk what's performance tier). Is it saturated with 2 video stream? QoS might help
2) How much bandwidth can your wifi provide? is it saturated with 2 video stream? QoS might also help.
3) How crowded is your wifi channel? Use this to check. Try to move to less congested channel or even better, utilize the 5GHz channel if available.
Otherwise it's possible that your wifi router simply sucks (no offend). You can try to get an AP to handle the wireless instead of your router and see.
Powerline gets some hate from this sub. I understand why. It hugely depends on your house's electric work. In MY experience, it does provide lower ping but bandwidth sucks big time, although bandwidth isn't that important for gaming. It also drops connection from time to time. ie, in my house, I know the powerline would stop working when I use vacuum in a certain outlet. Much like how 2.4GHz wifi can stop working when you use the microwave. TL;DR, YMMV.
To add on to this, you can get a WiFi analyser app on your Android phone and see what bands have the most interference from other routers in your area. This is the one I use.
Note, though, that that app won't pick up non-WiFi sources of interference, so you may still want to try changing the channel. Most routers are set up to automatically choose channels, but most consumer grade routers are really terrible at doing this. Honestly, even the enterprise APs we use at work did a pretty poor job at it (we tried it out during deployment, just to see how well it worked). For optimal performance, you're generally better off setting your own channel.
You may also want to turn off guest mode on your Chromecast (if it's on), as it broadcasts its own network and could potentially cause some interference (unlikely, but possible).
2 likely problems:
1) Interference from other WiFi hotspots. This is almost certainly the problem, you're in a tiny apartment in NYC.
Use a Wifi scanning app like inSSIDer (I use an Android app called WiFi Analyzer) to detect the hotspots around you. You'll probably see a lot. Pick a Channel for your router it isn't commonly used (the app will suggest some).
That will help, but you might also need to add a WIRED repeater to boost the signal as well (a wireless repeater will just make more noise).
2) If it's not that, it's a possibly unshielded wiring in the wall (common in pre-WWII construction). But the recommendation would be the same, run a wired repeater into the other room.
We really need some kind of really user-friendly one-click web-based app that will show wireless channel activity. Something like the Farproc Wifi Analyzer app (which I can't recommend enough: I love it and use all the time on my phone for wireless troubleshooting), but that runs in a browser, so we can just send users there to check on the spectrum usage themselves. Anyone here do web app development? I don't know enough about it to know if it's possible to give a web app that kind of access to the 802.11 hardware - does anyone have any idea?
If the headphone remote on the 2 works like the 3, it uses WiFi Direct. Check the wifi channel congestion in your area, and maybe move to a clearer channel. You can see what channel other wireless networks in your area are on by using an app like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en.
5G has got nothing to do with your wifi frequencies.
Your wifi has two frequencies, 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. 5 GHz is not the same as (cellular) 5G on your phone.
Download an app called Wifi Analyzer to see which Wifi channel you are on and how crowded it is.
If you live somewhere with a lot of neighbors who are all on the same Wifi channel your wifi strength (on the 2.4 GHz freq) can be very low.
So change your wifi channel to something less crowded.
You'll have to do that in your router.
>However, I dislike how often my internet drops
I've had 1 legitimate drop in about 5 years on Spectrum since troubleshooting all components - there are a few things you really need to check before blaming your issues on the provider (this goes for all cable-based internet services):
1) if you own your home, ensure your modem is no more than 1 split from the outside feed.
2) google your modem and find what appropriate signal levels are for it, and learn to login to it and check those levels. You may need an amp to bring those levels up to snuff.
3) if you have a way to automatically reboot your modem on a daily basis, do so (mine is on a smart outlet which clicks it off at 3am and back on a couple minutes later).
4) consider getting your own modem and router <-- fixing #1 and this were the biggest steps to reliability for me. The provided or leased hardware is usually the cheapest thing that meets the requirements for the provider and rarely works well.
Ensure also that the issue lies with the modem and not your wifi. I recently helped a friend troubleshoot their internet issues and simply switching the wifi channel fixed everything. The "auto" setting on most wifi routers is shit and often ends up on the same channel as your 6 closest neighbors who also don't know anything about wifi... download a wifi analyzer app and figure out which channel is least crowded and switch your wifi channel.
This is the app I use. I'm not sure about iOS, but I suspect Apple doesn't expose the APIs that would be necessary to do this sort of analysis.
Lots of different things can contribute to slow wifi speeds. I think 50 feet is pretty far. I wouldn't be surprised if after 20 feet you'd start to see some signal degradation, given some channel congestion and building materials getting in the way, weakening the signal, especially for a 5Ghz band (if that is what you're connected to).
If you have an AC router, it should still give you some pretty decent speeds at longer ranges, but anything less will definitely suffer, in my personal experience.
I'm no super expert, but I've troubleshot a few home networks before. A few things you could do to improve it are:
Like other comments stated, reboot the router.
Place the router a little higher and in an area where it will spread signal more evenly throughout your home, with as few obstacles as possible (esp. brick, cement barriers).
You can download an app to your smartphone, if you have one, like WiFi Analyzer to see compare which channels are the most congested. Then you can take a dive into your router settings to set it to the least populated channel.
Depending on your ISP, there may be other steps required to do a "proper" network reboot for things to run like they should. Your modem will need to correct its boot bin file by establishing a fresh connection. The steps are typically shutting the router + modem off, booting up the modem first, booting up the router after the modem is completely online, and then attempting to connect. Otherwise, if using a combo modem/router, just reboot it.
Hope that helps!
Use an ethernet cable if you are able.
If you have access to your router, you can try changing the channel settings to minimize interference with other nearby networks. Wifi Analyzer is an app you can use to find the best channel.
If the issue with ethernet is the distance to your router, you could look into something like these: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG
Plug one into your router and then plug in the other one wherever you play in your house and you'll get all the advantages of an ethernet cable.
Put the router up high, and away from solid concrete/steel/wood beams. Rotate one of the aerials perpendicular to the other if you can. Use a wifi-testing app like this on your phone to see if the signal is strong in the places you need it to be, and switch to channel 1, 6, or 11 depending on which is the least crowded.
>The disruption comes when a device is on a neighboring channel, slightly overlapping it.
If you're in a busy area, go ahead and check with something like WiFi analyzer and you'll see almost everything on 2.4ghz is on channels 1, 6, and 11 for this reason. Your router isn't going to be looking for an empty channel, it's going to look for a channel it communicates the best on, which might even be busy af.
Then once you've checked go yell at anyone in the middle of those channels because they're fucking it up for everyone else.
have her access the router settings on a different device connected to the wifi (usally you just type in 192.168.1.1 or you can use the wifi analyzer app) Store link for android. If its on 5 ghz have her switch it to 2.4 and onto a preferably empty channel.
I don't think your neighbors are moving around at all. I think you're seeing something you're not understanding. Over 50% of access points (and I'm being extremely conservative here) in the US are built into modem/router combos rented from an ISP. They are neither modern nor "fancy" as has been thrown around here. And they definitely, despite what you say, do not have dynamic channel hopping capability. You're lucky if your ISP modem/router has 802.11ac. More likely you're seeing two different bands or even more likely, your neighbors have shitty internet like many people and they think restarting their routers regularly will help. It's an oddly common thing to do. This is my job, I see it all the time.
Maybe what you think you've seen is band hopping? That's a common thing in higher end routers now but I doubt you'll see it in any current ISP router offerings. That's more for load balancing and avoiding extremely congested 2.4Ghz areas though.
But to actually answer your question: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
Find 1, 6, or 11 and just set it manually. If your router really is hopping channels (and I don't think it is) then you're getting interruptions in your service that are more disruptive than interference. Best case scenario you have a router with an antenna dedicated to scanning to minimize the interruption time but that's really not likely.
> They are all set up to automatically negotiate channels and power between them selves so that they don't have overlapping channels.
To quote Archer: Do you want overlapping channels? Because that's how you get overlapping channels.
I've never seen a wifi controller yet that can be relied on to fully manage the channel and strength.
Forget trying to find obscure commands for your kit. Install Wifi Analyzer - it's free - on your phone and go walk to an AP reporting collisions. If you see multiple APs (check the MAC address - don't confuse multple SSIDs with APs) on the same channel with signal strength higher than -80db, that's your problem.
Since you brought it up...
Check out Wifi Analyzer
It's great to see what channel everyone around you is on and allow you to choose a better channel on your router.
Awesome! Or not, but now you at least know what the problem is. :)
One thing I might suggest further is that if you have a tablet or smartphone, look into apps that can tell you about networks around you, so you can get a sense of what your neighbors are using and what you can try to avoid to get a better signal. For Android I've used Wifi Analyzer:
(Not affiliated, just a user, but it works pretty well for me.)
Something like that will show you nearby networks, what channels they're on, and how strong the signals are, so you can try to find a hole for your network to live in. Don't just check near your router - be sure to check signals near where you use your client devices like your laptop, tablet, Roku, or whatever, so you can try to find a good space there.
If your apartment building is really crowded and trying to find a clear channel on 2.4 GHz turns out to be a complete clusterf**k, the suggestion by /u/hypergolic to look for a 5Ghz capable router is probably your next best bet, but you'll need to make sure all your client devices are 5GHz capable too in order to take advantage of it. Good luck!
Wifi or wired? If it's wireless download something like Wifi Analyzer and see crowded your channels are. I went from 15 mbps back to my rated 50 by changing to a lesser used channel.
If it's wired, start by resetting your modem and router. I've had my speeds crap out when one gets flaky. Also, try plugging directly into your modem. If your router is starting to die it could be slowing things down.
first off, reset both devices just in case
at the back of the PLDT modem, use any of the ports LAN1-LAN3 and connect to your linksys using the INTERNET port
that's it actually.
other things that you might want to do:
disable PLDT wifi
enable customized wifi name and password
optional: using your android phone, get wifi analyzer at the appstore
you can check the number of wifi signal is in the air, and which channels they are using. use another channel for your own wifi. this means a little more stable wifi connectivity
WiFi Analyser from Farproc on Android allows creating aliases for each access point (by MAC address). Very handy for what you describe.
I use this app for Android ---> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_AU&gl=US
Super handy to see the signal strength as you walk around the house, and also if there's anything overlapping channels.
My question is what's the wifi-congestion situation? It's a apartment.
Likely a ton of other wifi competing for rf airspace..
You should run a wifi analyzer. But assuming extreme congestion, hardwire might be the only option
Internet speed is irrelevant for Virtual Desktop unless you are playing from a cloud PC. Generally if you have poor performance in VD it's because your router is too slow or your wifi signal is poor. Get a WiFi Analyzer app and verify your signal is strong and no neighbors routers are interfering. If you have other devices connected to your router it will affect overall performance as well. So either stop using them while playing or get a dedicated router just for Virtual Desktop use.
Your best bet for detailed technical support is to join the Virtual Desktop Discord and ask for help there.
Ako loviš toliko tuđih mreža, lako moguće da je problem u šumu. Skini WiFi analyzer, pogledaj na kojem si kanalu i koliko se preklapaš sa susjedima, app bi ti trebao dati ocjenu i preporuku na koji promjeniti. Također, ako ti svi uređaji to podržavaju, prebacivanje na 5GHz band bi moglo pomoći, ali domet će biti manji.
Agreed. Here is a link: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
This response is most likely the answer. Since WiFi works sometimes but will drop, as a field technician the 2 things I would check are:
See how many SSID (WiFi networks) you see listed in the analyzer. If there are (for example) 10 networks running on the same channel OP's WiFi is then interference is the issue to address.
See what the signal strength is. If the signal strength is below 50-60 decibels then I would expect issues with WiFi.
Now if there are multiple networks on the same channel and OP's signal is (for example) 60Db, I would expect there to be intermittent issues. In WiFi terms it's the same as pulling the ethernet cable at random. This is absolutely the first step into solving your issue. Especially with 2700ms ping.
This is the play store app directly I use for these situations.
> Would this work OK if I upgraded to an 802.11ac router?
Your chance of success would certainly be a lot better. I can stream 4864x2432 30-40Mbit 60fps h.264 content to my Go using a 5GHz ac router without any major problems, though I'm usually in the same room when I do it. Line of sight and interference are the main things to worry about. There's generally less interference on the 5GHz band of course though for the best results you'll still want to use a Wi-Fi scanner app (like Wifi Analyzer or whatever) to make sure your router is using an uncrowded channel. In fact it's worth investigating this with your current solution to see if you can improve things at all.
Go with ASUS and if you have some minimal technical skills you can go with the (open-source) Asuswrt-Merlin firmware (and with fixed WiFi channels, maybe 2.4GHz in the most backwards-compatible and Bluetooth-friendly way, 5GHz in a more speed-oriented way).
That being said even with night hawk ac2600 you should not have that many problems, so IMHO you should always start things with ca channel map like for instance the one using WiFi Analyzer or similar.
Yes, wire up as many as you can back to the primary. It's best to connect all back to a central gigabit switch connected to the primary GWiFi's LAN port, but you can daisy chain as well. As long as it has a wired path back to primary.
Since you'll be installing, you can use WiFi Analyzer on your smart phone to try and figure out the best areas to place them. For the ones wired, you'll want those where signal is weakest. Since you'll want the pucks to be central to where the devices are used most, putting them in the ceiling where smoke detector or recessed can lighting is installed tends to be ideal locations. I have seen one person on this subreddit have a picture of it. It was sticking out quite a bit. Since the antennas are located only on the top half, the portion above the LED, you can actually make it more flush and look pretty slick.
Eu começaria nessa abordagem também: cabear tudo o que for possível (mas eu entendi que ele já fez isso) e descobrir qual canal está menos ocupado (costumo uso o Wifi Analyzer pra isso) e forçar o roteador a trabalhar nessa frequência.
Se ainda não ser certo, acho que será preciso fazer igual ao que fazemos em redes grandes (com centenas/milhares de usuários): colocar mais pontos de acesso (AP) à rede sem fio distribuídos em várias regiões, sendo que esses APs devem estar conectados ao roteador central via cabeamento, contudo, não sei se os roteadores doméstico da D-link tem esse recurso; eu já vi que os da Asus tem o tal do AI Mesh, mas nunca implementei.
Move your wifi router closer to the center of your living space, but away from the microwave oven. Having it sitting next to the exterior wall means half of your usable wifi signal is being uselessly broadcasted into the back yard.
Get an phone app like wifi analyzer Find the least used 2.4 and 5 ghz channels for your wifi router and use only NON OVERLAPPING CHANNELS. This link will explain it for 2.4 ghz channel but the same principals apply to 5. ghz channels
Testaa reitittimestä/modeemista ethernetkaapelilla suoraan johonkin koneeseen. Jos ethernetin kautta pääset lähelle tuota 50 megaa, kannattaa reititin päivittää parempaan.
Jos sulla on Android-puhelin käytössäsi, voit katsoa wifi-verkon ruuhkaisuuden Wifi Analyzer-softalla.
I've had no issues connecting to 5GHz Wi-Fi. Our setup has two Ubiquiti access points and the Essential registers with very high TX and RX rates (867 Mbps), to the point where it can max out our Internet connection on Speedtest at 178 Mbps. Both APs have the same 5GHx SSID and the Essential roams between them seamlessly.
I might suggest that you install Wifi Analyzer and see if your 5GHz signal is visible, and (if you can) compare it with known working 5GHz access points. Also, sometimes it can help to reset the wireless connections (System -> Reset options on LOS 15.1, hopefully that's in stock Android as well) and retry connecting.
EDIT: Forgot to add, I'm using Lineage OS 15.1 with Essential's April modem update.
You'll also want to keep an eye on the TPCast router to ensure no other nearby wireless network is using the same (or overlapping) channel. Get yourself a wifi analyzer like this.
I check it every time I start a VR session because if my neighbors router is interfering I sometimes literally get sick from the additional lag introduced. The strange thing is I can't actually notice it visually but after about 15mins I start to feel it.
You can use Wifi Analyzer app for Android https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US to scan the wifi networks around you and get SSID (network name) and channel.
I don't know if there is something similar for iOS. I have never saw it.
Hope it helps!
Check the wifi in your area using something like Wifi Analyzer. Move your router's wifi channel to the most 'free'. If possible force your devices on to 5GHz (may be able to change the SSIDs so 2.4 and 5 have different names, making it easy to see which one you're on). Otherwise it's a new access point. Seeing as your wired speeds are fine you could probably disable wifi on the Belong kit, and just plug in something like a Ubiquiti Unifi AC Lite to handle the wifi.
If your wired devices are fine then changing DNS etc will have no impact, this is a wireless thing.
It's possible your complex threw up some public WAPs and your router's firmware has a setting on to lower power in order to make sure it doesn't step on other signals. It would make sense why the 2.4 signal goes away while the 5 signal doesn't (way more channels). Just a guess though.
Try downloading wifi analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en) and see if you can find any open channels on 5 and force it there. 2.4 will be tougher because you typically want to use only 1, 6, or 11, because the other channels will cause you to get interference from the adjacent channels.
Okay, this is going to take some work on your part.
You write "disconnected often". What do you mean by that? Do you get disconnected from your WiFi? Do you stay connected to the WiFi but are unable to connect to the outside world?
Assuming WiFi trouble:
Can you draw (MS Paint if need be, not picky here) your house layout (ideally with wall thickness) and show us where your WiFi-router is placed?
Are there any spots where the disconnects are more frequent than in other places?
Do the disconnects happen at specific time(frame)s?
Have you checked the channels yet? You might have neighbours clogging the frequencies you use. If you have access to an Android device, you can use this app to visualize that. Image would be appreciated. Mark your WiFi signal on the screenshot.
Assuming outbound connection issues:
Does this happen at specific time(frame)s?
Do you have cable issues? How old is the house, when were the cables installed, did anybody accidentally drill into them, that kind of thing?
If you have a device you can leave unattended for some time you can try to measure your connection with something like iperf (If you'd like to get a Linux script for that hit me up, I'm deploying a RPi3 at my sister-in-law's today that does exactly that)
Most important thing if you're starting to troubleshoot: Do it right the first time around or you'll waste a lot of time.
Only one change at a time
Measure all the things you need to measure
Document your measurements
Revert back to the original state
Repeat until culprit is found and fixed.
If you give us more info we'll be able to help better.
First, as you said you already know where the apartment complex is. Get your device with Airmon on it running and go there.
Second, go near to the complex area and run heavy Airmon and Airodump in the area. With this technique you'll be able to see all the MACs of the WiFi APs and the machines connected to them, when you'll locate on which WiFi your laptop's MAC is showing up go to the 3rd part.
3rd and final part,
Download and install this App on your Android phone:
Open it and go to the section that gives you the ability to "Locate APs in -dBm range", select the MAC from the WiFi that you saw your laptop's MAC located in the running machines and enable the beeping sound to get information weather you are walking near or far from the WiFi.
Search the complex with this technique and when you'll find the apartment that has the WiFi you'll already know and where your laptop is.
If I understood correctly everything you said on the post, this will definitely help you to achieve what you requested 100%. If you think that I may misunderstood something from your post, tell me to correct myself.
DISCLAIMER: Be very careful, you're trying to get your machine back from a thief. This can get you killed or harm, if you're willing to do it take someone with you.
check your config;
verify physical obstructions/placement
verify noise with a wifi analyzer
change channel on the router if noisy/busy
change the Ghz band
Look into getting a separate AP AND disable your netgear r6100 AP funtionality
We have 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz.
2.4Ghz - longer range, lower bandwidth aggregate
5Ghz - shorter range, higher bandwidth aggregate
check what radio you have enabled.
Wireless access point(netgear r6100 router/WAP combo) positioning - dont put it under a table, against a wall, with a wireless printer sitting on top.
For android, try a wifi analyzer like this one.
Dont know about apple, but there should be something out there.
Using the above application, and depending on your country, you'll see different channels for 2.4 and 5Ghz bands, with associated SSIDs, and the amount of noise in those channels.
With all the above you can reconfigure what you have, to see if you can resolve your current setup.
If you want to go new, you can get a separate access point. Your netgear r6100 is a router/AP combo. You can disable the AP functionality, and use a superior AP that you can place in a better location. Generally disabling a combos AP fuct lead to better stability as well, but YMMV.
Unifi APs are generally recommended. The linked data sheet with show you a heatmap at the bottom of each specific products, depicting coverage. Models range from 60-130US$.
This is a great app for Android that I've used for years: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer Shows loads of useful info on your local Wi-Fi signals
Don't think. Use WiFi Analyzer and know. It tells you which channel is best to use along with a ton of other useful info.
Wifi Analyzer I have used it for years.
Looks incredibly spammy?
I'll stick to this one
This looks like a rip off of the original WiFi analyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Apps in this video (though 95% is about Wifi Analyzer)
WiFi Analyzer: quickly find the best channel for your Wifi network using this!
Seems to be this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_GB
Firstly, i would recommend checking if the actual router is working - it's possible that a power surge killed it or reset it.
Look for lights on the router, see if the internet light is green etc. Plug in a laptop via an ethernet cable and see if you can get internet that way.
If the router is e.g. locked away in another room, then install a Wifi Analyser app on your smartphone and set it to scan. Local networks should appear larger on the graph the closer you get to it.
The wifi network will either appear, or it will appear under a default router name (if the router was wiped and reset by a pwoer surge) or not appear at all (wifi was either disabled by the powercut, or the router is faulty)
Do you have physical access to the router? Look underneath the router for the default SSID name and password (and admin panel login information)
Alternatively, a lot of routers have a WPS button (sometimes prominent, sometimes discreetly hidden)
Press that WPS button and the router will be put into promiscuous mode for maybe a minute or so - allowing any wifi device to discover or connect to it.
The wifi login information is then stored on the laptop/smartphone/tablet permanently.
Don't mix up the reset and WPS button!
If you do have physical access, you could always run a length of ethernet to your PC/laptop/console, bypassing the wifi altogether.
An added bonus of doing this is that you're determining that the internet router is actually working and connected to the internet.
Finally, if your cellphone has a decent data plan, you can enable wifi hotspot or USB tethering and use internet over it.
It can be slower and less responsive (depending on your local 4g/5g infrastructure) but will do in an emergency
Be VERY VERY CAREFUL as if your cellphone plan has a really miserable data limit, you could be hit with a cellphone bill for hundreds of dollars at the end of the month.
Expect a daily usage of 5 to 10GB if you went allout streaming Netflix, gaming etc.
is it this ? https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
The wifi speeds you're seeing are the max wifi speeds for the Vita. You're not going to break anything outside the teens and should be fine to remote play in the upper single digits. So your next question is, why are you getting "speed too slow" error messages? Interference.
I should also mention that the frequency of your wifi is not directly correlated to speed. If you run a device with a good wifi card in it I bet you'll see similar speeds to your 5ghz connections, that interference is still present, but it shouldn't drastically impact speed. It will however, still drastically impact performance of some network traffic, particularly streaming video/audio. With streaming, it is VERY important that all the bits move from A to B unimpeded. It isn't like a file download where if some parts don't make it they can simply be repushed over and over, those bits are lost and that data will now never make it. So you need to overcome your interference.
Lots of things run on the 2.4 spectrum unfortunately. Older wifi devices, bluetooth (like game console controllers and headphones), baby monitors, home phones, wifi direct devices, smart tvs, steam controllers... on and on and on. You need to find where these are in your home and keep them away from your Vita.
For instance, don't try remote playing your Vita next to your cell phone that is streamin wifi on the 2.4ghz spectrum (just switch it to a 5.0ghz network and your fine) while bluetooth stream audio to your stereo. If you can't move these devices, then simply turn the wifi off or turn them off completely while trying to remote play.
The next thing you should consider is the channel traffic in your area. Most people run on 2.4ghz networks, so if your in an apartment building, you may have some trouble. 2.4 only has like 11ish channels so find one where you can broadcast your router without much interference from other routers can be a challenge. I own a house that is spaced out moderately from other houses and I still run into issues with this in some cases. Go grab an app from your favorite app store to analyze your wifi envirionment (i use wifi analyzer and determine your best placing and channels for your wifi. Find out if a strong signal is on a close channel and move to a further away channel if one is available.
One good option, and one that I have employed at my place, is to run multiple routers bridged to share the same SSID from different rooms in my house. These shouldn't repeat via wifi, but should be connected via Ethernet if you plan to stream. I realize that's a challenge, but having a wired house is a blessing. Generally you don't want to be more than 1 room away from your router for remote playing to ensure you don't drop. Routers that operate only 2.4ghz on 'N' are pretty cheap (maybe $20) so you can play where you want, those are the best the Vita can utilize. There is one trick with this sharing of SSIDs though, sometimes your device won't flip itself to the better router automatically. If this happens just open your networks settings and run the network connection test. You don't even need to get to where it logs in, just let it hit your connection point and then his cancel. The network test will quickly drop your connection and re-establish it, which when you have multiple connection points on the same SSID forces it to the strongest one. It's very quick and very effective.
EDIT: Also one last thing. If you're not planning to use a direct connection with the PS4 (which really only works best if you're in the same room as the console), turn that feature off. I find that the Vita REALLY REALLLY wants to use this connection if it can. Even if the console is only barely able to ping the PS4 it will attempt to connect this way, fail, and then say your connection is too slow. Turning this feature off on the PS4 will force the Vita to first check your local network for a PS4, then check the internet. Usually you want a local network connection. That is, again, unless you are right by the console, then a direction connection is best.
It's literally called "Wifi Analyzer".
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer Wifi Analyzer. Quite handy
A few questions you need to ask yourself to assess the problem:
So start A/B testing your equipment to see where the bottleneck is:
Useful tools for testing:
Wi-Fi Analyzer i jazda.
This app is much better.....
Possibly this one https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US ive used that one a lot in the past.
WiFi analyzer for Android is a good app as well...
For anyone without a shiny router that does this, there are apps that do the same for you, eg
There is a bit of confusion about what apps are in question here and it took me a moment to sort it all out. I am not going to make any judgement in this post, but simply clarify what apps are being discussed. At this point there are 5 apps in the discussion.
Hope this helps clarify
Wifi Analyzer will do this.
Has always served me well, although I imagine there are prettier versions out there these days, I continue to use it.
Would something like this work? It gives you tons of information about the wireless environment you're in.
WiFi Analizer para android
just to be clear, it's not a device, he's talking about the app. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
> Do a wifi analysis and determine what channel is the optimal one for you.
helpful free tool
I think I have used one called wifi analyzer
I don't know which one you used, but I'm using this one.
I've found them to be very unreliable as well. I think it's because they have shitty wifi antennas. They only allow use of 2.4 GHz (not 5 GHz), which is already extremely crowded if you're in a densely populated area. And the WiFi on these seems to be even more unreliable than any other 2.4 GHz device I own, and extremely susceptible to interference, even when in the room next to the router.
That being said, the solution I've found is to change the channel on your router to one that is less crowded. If you have an android device, you can use the app "WiFi Analyzer" to see which 2.4 GHz channels are the most open. There are only 3 non-overlapping 2.4 GHz channels: 1, 6, and 11. But there are 11 total, the other ones just overlap with others (this wiki has helpful diagrams to understand). 1, 6, and 11 are all very crowded, try picking a channel in-between them. Only problem is if other peoples' routers are switching channels often, you may find yourself changing the channel regularly.
As for the issue of only one tile remaining on, etc - I have not really found a way to fix that. What I've done is put a smart-plug into the outlet, and plugged the lifx into that. So it's easy enough to turn it off and on manually by pressing the button on the smart plug. Also, I was having a very weird issue where the tiles would turn on the in the middle of the night, so I now have my Amazon alexa turn off the smart plug as part of my 'go to bed' routine so the lifx tiles physically can't turn on after that.
To Lifx: PLEASE ADD 5 GHZ WIFI TO YOUR DEVICES!!! 2.4 GHz spectrum only has THREE non-overlapping channels, so if you are in an apartment complex, you are sharing those channels with everyone around you. 5 GHz has THIRTY-FOUR non-overlapping channels, which means basically anyone will have their own channel, even in apartment complexes.
As a customer in a little town in the middle of Texas, who uses his own modem and his own router (separate units, not combined) and is wired through ethernet, I actually get more speed than I'm paying for. Well, I throttle my upload speed for technical reasons, but if I turned that off it would be about 20 Mbps upload.
Like you, I used to think my internet was garbage. Know what made the difference? All the messing around with new WiFi cards, new routers, or new modems was ignoring the problem that WiFi is generally complete fucking shit for reliability at best. The most reliable WiFi radios I've ever used were in smartphones, and even then it depends on the phone. After getting wired in directly, my problems went away. Ping was better than ever and we got the speeds we were paying for. I'm not even living in an apartment - my neighbors are only just barely close enough for their networks to even get picked up.
It sounds from your post that you've outright refused to wire in through Ethernet even if just to run a speed test. While such a scenario may not be your day-to-day use case, that's not the point. Doing so enables you to rule out wireless interference or hardware issues on your end, and determine if it's really the internet connection that's the problem. I once got a $70 WiFi card with good reviews, and it was total crap. I can't even tell you how many garbage WiFi routers I've gone through.
> Heard every excuse in the book, literally from 'too many devices in your immediate area using same router channel" [Belkin N600 DB N+ wireless router - all OEM default settings changed upon installation, pw protected & unique SSID, using 5G settings, etc; their docsis 3 whatever modem]
I have to be blunt here, you don't seem to understand what a WiFi router channel is, because nothing you mentioned is related to that (the 5G is close, but the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands each have multiple channels). Other people using the same channel does not mean they're using your router, it means their own routers and/or devices are transmitting on a wireless frequency that is the same as yours, or close enough to interfere - think radio stations. This interference is murder on signal quality, and happens often in apartment environments where multiple households, potentially with multiple wireless routers all packed in close together, don't have enough channels to prevent interference. And you've said you are in an apartment.
Try using a Wifi Analyzer app (here's a good one for Android) to see neighboring wireless signal channels in both the 2.4G and 5G bands, and see if you can find a channel with less interference. There is some overlap between adjacent channels, so that may not be possible, and if that be the case, there's nothing the ISP can do besides recommend you use Ethernet instead of WiFi.
I hope you're at least kind and courteous to the tech support who take your calls, and keep snark like "SuddenStink" to yourself. Many of those folks don't know more than what the script tells them, or if they do know more, they're not allowed to say anything. If they can't help you (especially if you ignore what they tell you), it's not their fault. The most you can do is let them follow their script and try everything they tell you to try, at least once.
I'd recommend using an app/software to scan his area and see what less congested channels are. For example - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
wifi analyzer for android has done the trick for me. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Networking guy here: 80% of the time on consumer connections wifi interference is your problem. The next 10% is your computer being full of malware and your connection actually performing well, just being over-utilized. The next 5% is a shitty router and the last 5% is a shitty connection to your ISP.
Plug in and speed test. You might have a noisy line, but usually the speeds aren't going to be this bad.
What is common, though is interference. Microwaves, portable phones, baby monitors, and about a trillion other things... Even once you exclude those, each wireless channel is still a shared medium. You might be on your own network, but if both you and your neighbour are on channel 6 and both try and transfer as fast as you can, you're both only getting half speed since you both need to share the air time. This is obviously a larger issue in and around apartment buildings where there are dozens of access points all fighting for space.
Try a hard-wired connection. If that works, your wi-fi is shit. That could be interference or a shitty router.
Try a laptop or something on the hard-wired connection with their computer (and all other devices) off. If that's better, their connection is fine but something is using all their bandwidth.
See if you can pull any stats on the router. That'll give you an idea of the quality of the connection to the ISP as well as outside line usage. Some fuckwad might be, for instance, using your router as part of a DNS amplification attack and eating up your bandwidth while not causing any issues with your internal network.
There's a WiFi analyzer app for Android (no root or anything required) which will allow you to see what other networks are using the same channel.
There's also a speedtest app for Android. If you lack a laptop you could try using that over Wi-Fi as an alternative if you don't have a laptop or something.
Me personally, I just said fuck it to typical consumer routers and their measly 100mW or whatever and have one that pumps a full 1W into the antenna. Not only does this cause all the other routers in the vicinity which are set to automatically find the least congested channel to leave my channel free, but allows me to pick up my wireless connection from my parking spot.
Wifi Analyzer might work for you.
So first, based on the added speed tests, I can say that your connection seems quite stable. The ping (connection delay) is a bit high in some instances, but nothing too horrible; and that should not affect resolution, just input delay. The low Jitter (better than mine) seems to indicate a really stable connection actually.
Based on the results you're getting, and especially the "I'm not sure if such a shitty Router can enable it", a likely (not guaranteed, but quite possible) cause for the issues might be that your router is having a hard time dealing with the traffic. Games streaming is kind of unique in the sense that it can't buffer content (send it ahead of time in big blocks), so it can be very hard on routers.
But before you even think of going out and getting a better router, I'd still try and mess around with things as much as possible (no sense in spending money if there is a free fix to your issue). So here is some added info on some of the points above:
>- Try it out inside Incognito Mode (without Chrome extensions)
This one can work surprisingly well. I actually use Firefox as my main browser and since I do some web dev, I also use Chrome a lot... so I have started using the new Edge browser as my "stadia-only" browser. It works quite well (with Stadia as my home page and all).
>- Power Cycle and 30-30-30 method to re-install updates (No idea of what this mean)
This basically just means shut down the router and restart it again.
The "30-30-30" bit is this: Hold down the reset button for 30 seconds, keep it pressed while you unplug the router from the power source for 30 more seconds, and then plug it back in while keeping the button held down for an additional 30 seconds.
But I'd keep that full reset for extreme cases; in almost all cases, just shutting the router off, unplugging it for a few seconds and restarting it should do the trick (no need to use the reset button).
>- "Change the channels to some that are not as heavily trafficked" - Don't know how to do it but I can learn how to do it if you consider it's possible this might be affecting.
I'm fairly certain you can find out how to do that online. You should be able to find instructions by googling something like "set WiFi bands [ROUTER MODEL NAME/NUMBER]"
The idea is that WiFi is a radio signal, so you can check which frequencies are most used around where you are using android apps (stuff like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer), and then set your router to use the bands that are the emptiest so the signal comes through more clearly.
>- Enable "Quality of Service" - I'm not sure if such a shitty Router can enable it.
Same as above, you might find the setting by googling "QoS [ROUTER MODEL/NUMBER]"
Another relevant question; which laptop are you using? (Brand and Model name/number if you know, or CPU/GPU if you know where to look for those).In some cases the issue could be on that end =)
Walk around and find a good signal with your phone
Here are a few suggestions (some that others have mentioned) to try. If none work, and the WiFi signal seems fine after testing below, definitely contact support for more assistance (and maybe an equipment swap).
If none of those works, it's likely a WiFi signal issue. Often apartments have poor WiFi speeds because of congestion caused by lots of WiFi signals in surrounding apartments. So even if your unit is small without any other access point, all of your neighbors may have strong WiFi signals, and sometimes on channels that interfere, which can make your signal really bad. While another provider may be giving you better WiFi speeds, it may just be luck as to which channel a device has chosen rather than the equipment. A few things to take a look at:
Once you have checked those top settings, and confirmed that you have the optimum WiFi channels selected, here are a few sites to test speeds:
As others have suggested, it may also be worth testing with your laptop hardwired in using ethernet to the network box to determine if it's your WiFi connection or your internet connection that is causing problems. If you do this, on your Macbook make sure you disable WiFi (or deprioritize it), so that you're making sure you do test the ethernet and that your laptop doesn't still use your WiFi for testing.
Hope that helps, and definitely contact support for more assistance if none of the above improves your connection.
Looks like Wifi Analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=nl
This one probably.
>I looked online and it seem you can use it as an access point, wifi repeater, and a wifi bridge.
A "bridge" connects two different networks, not something you need. A "repeater" extends the range of a Wifi signal. You place the repeater some distance from the main source, the "access point", it picks up the signal and "repeats" it, pushing the signal further from the AP. Here's a bit more detail on Speedguide.
As far as speed is concerned, first things first. Connect to the modem with a cable and do a speed test to verify what speed you're getting from AT&T.
Assuming you're getting reasonable speeds the next step is to test the Wifi coverage. This is easiest with a phone app. I use WiFi Analyzer, an Android app. After you install it open it up, find your network and look at the dBm shown. Lower numbers are better, anything above 70 the connection's going to be flaky. Walk around the house a bit, seeing how the signal fluctuates, particularly near your desktop. If the signal's weak in that area you may be able to connect but performance will be hit or miss and you may get disconnects.
You're dealing with two different components, the WiFi AP and the Wifi adapter on the desktop. Not all wireless devices are equal. The specs may be the same but the performance can vary greatly. If the signal at the desktop is strong then you need to look at a better adapter on the desktop. Btw, do post the specs, or make/model, for the adapter on the desktop.
Assuming it is a weak signal then you can A) boost the signal or B) bypass wifi all together.
I have no idea what the performance would be for the Ubee. To boost the signal I'd look at a known good wifi router, like the Netgear Nighthawk series. A more affordable option would be the TP-Link Archer.
Another route is eliminating Wifi by using Powerline networking. That uses the home's electrical wiring to transport the signal. One is plugged in near and connected to the router with a cable. A second one is plugged in near the desktop with a cable running to the desktop.
Some of these will also generate a Wifi signal from the second adapter.
Note: While DD-WRT is great, allows better utilization of compatible routers, it is a bit more advanced. And if the hardware of the router is crap to begin with DD-WRT isn't going to change that. If you want to get your hands dirty go for it, can't hurt. The simpler route is a known good quality router.
I use the Android app Wi-Fi Analyzer to do this and test what channel would be ideal https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Download and install Wifi analyzer and post a screencap
You might be experiencing channel interference with nearby networks crowding the spectrum. Use Wifi Analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en) to find out what the most commonly used channel around you is, and set your AP/router to a different channel, e.g. If most devices are broadcasting on channel 1, change yours to 6, or 10, etc.
With some routers, I've seen frequent disconnection problems when the DHCP lease expires. Create a reservation for the Google Home's IP.
This is an unlikely problem, but is your DHCP pool large enough for all the devices in your home?
Wifi analyzer has helped me track down channel contention with my neighbours before (I don't know what the iOS version would be). Run as much as you can on 5 ghz
Are you in a high traffic wireless area? Check your wireless settings, try an app like Wifi Analyzer to see signal strengths.
I had a similar problem with an old router, managed to make it slightly better with settings. Completely disappeared after getting a new router.
Of course, if you're hard-wired, this is clearly not the problem.
Get this app for your phone and see if your neighbours are causing interference.
My speed is cut in half if a particular neighbour is on the same channel
si te pasa solo con el wifi y vivis en depto, quizas sea tema de saturacion de canales. fijate con el wifi analyzer cuan saturados estan y cambiate manualmente a uno que suela estar vacio. se supone que el modem automaticamente switchea de canal cuando se satura, pero andá saber...
sino pedile a un amigo que tenga el mismo modem que te lo preste un rato, conectalo y fijate si te pasa lo mismo. si no te pasa, es problema del modem tuyo. rompelo (quemalo) y llama para que te den uno nuevo.
802.n pode conectar tanto em redes 2.4Ghz como 5Ghz, verifique no roteador Wi-Fi qual banda tá utilizando, se n conseguir acessar use um app como esse (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=pt) ou veja nos detalhes da conexão Wi-Fi qual a banda utilizada.
As /u/blauster mentioned get Wifi Analyzer and see if there is an empty-ish spot in the spectrum that you can use.
Reduce the channel width from 40MHz to 20MHz and drop down the speed (no need to 300mbps speed if your ISP provides you with 50 ... it just clutters the spectrum with lost packets )
Depending on your house/apartment geometry and router placement you can even benefit from lowering the WiFi power, since signal reflection from walls can disrupt signal integrity. Tinker and find your perfect/best settings by pinging your router from your phone and looking at the packet drops.
And finally - if possible and your devices support 5GHz, get yourself a nice (not $20) router that supports 802.11ac - wider channel width, more channels overall (wider spectrum), less signal wall penetration because of the shorter wavelength hence less interference from neighbors.
This is what comes to mind, if someone has any other ides - please share :)
Instaleaza Wifi Analizer si vezi ce canale sunt ocupate si alege o zona cu cat mai libera.
There is also farproc's Wifi Analyzer.
The EA6350 you have should be enough alone for 10 connections in a small area such as an apartment. I'm thinking it is definitely interference from other networks in the area. The WiFi Analyzer suggestion is probably a good place to start.
This is the best one available for Android. Look at channels 1, 6, and 11 and see where you'd overlap the least networks and set your router to use that channel. Using Auto can work sometimes but it isn't as good as using this app and looking at where your network best fits.
Theoretical max for that is 867mbps, with 1/3 of that being 289mbps.
As others pointed out, channel congestion and environment effects (walls, wiring, distance) are more than plausible to bring that down to ~200mbps.
What does your WiFi channel spectrum map look like? Use something like this and post a screenshot indicating what your SSID is:
I work in an IT shop and we've had some odd reliability issues with our TP AC1750s until upgrading their firmware, have you tried that yet?
Also if you have an android phone you can install the WiFi analyzer app which will tell you what the signal looks like in different parts of your house. If you're seeing a more than 50% drop in signal strength when going from next to your router compared to your room signal strength may be the issue.
Assuming you're playing at home and not at work or a college campus and the issue with ethernet is the distance to your router, you could look into something like these: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG
In my experience, mostly trial and error. I do use the Android app wifi analyzer to get an idea of the levels at different locations but that's not fool proof. It does nicely show multiple APs at once, though.
How close to the router is the xbox? 5ghz will likely give you higher bandwidth in the same room with line of sight but
tends to struggle through walls, whereas 2.4ghz will handle that case much better.
You might want to check for channel congestion as well with something like Wi-fi analyzer although problems like this on the 5ghz band are unlikely.
I think you mentioned that you can see a neighbor's wifi if you do a scan? Download a wifi analyzer app and check that you and your neighbor are not on the same wifi channel. That can cause slowdowns, and the default setting on many routers is channel 6. You should be able to change the channel on your router setup page.
I use this one, it's free:
If you have the MAC address, just open up Wifi Analyzer, select the target network, switch to signal strength mode, and start walking around. Look for obstacles that mask the transmitter, and surfaces that create bank shots that give false impressions of direction of origin. Keep moving and you'll find it.
Also curious what manner of Rogue AP you're dealing with.
You want a WiFi "scanning application" to accomplish what exactly? Cause if you just want to find channels in use and the signal strength, the free ones work just fine for that...
Now if you want to find RF interference on anything in the 2.4/5Ghz spectrum, now you have a real justification for a hardware device/dongle.
Try making a wifi profile for yourself.
If the link doesn't work, it's an app called "Wifi analyzer". Run the app, get familiar with each window. You'll want to slowly walk around your area to see signal strength as well as keeping an eye out for other networks that might be causing interference. This will give you a picture if there are dead zones.
WiFi Analyzer, it's great for troubleshooting wireless issues. Android app link
For Android, I use Wifi Analyzer to test wifi points and channels (surprising what just changing the channel of a router would do) and Fing to look at everything on a network without having to roam a building.
If you have an android phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
It may be switching channels, but what you might be running into is that there's lots of traffic on the channel your router selected. In cases such as those, using a smartphone and an app such as this to get a wireless profile can show you which channel would work best for you.
> Wifi analyzer
Not a clue but you can probably find out pretty easily with a wifi scanning android app. It'll show you the channels with least interference. Lemme see if I can find the one I used ages ago...
I'm a teacher and use thewirecutter.com to teach my students about good research and fair evaluation practices. They are very thorough and honest in their reviews.
About their router choice, that it's for as they say "most people." If you're having connectivity issues, you should probably do two things
Get their "upgrade" choice for best router (from that same article) http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1750-802-11ac-Gigabit-R6400-100NAS/dp/B00Z0V2NQ8?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAJM4NKIQGABP2PIRA&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00Z0V2NQ8&tag=thewire06-20&ascsubtag=WC29013
And then learn about the difference between 2.5 vs 5 ghz wifi. On mobile or I'd find you a good guide. Use an app like this to see how many other wifi access points are in your area https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en&referrer=utm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dorganic%26utm_term%3Dwifi+analyzer&pcampaignid=APPU_1_vk2IVv2PJ4OvmQGFkZywAQ
Then choose a channel thats not crowded for most of your devices and save the 5ghz for your media devices.
Pm me if you have any questions
I've built a security camera similar to this one. Using a Linux-supported USB camera instead of the Pi camera will make construction much easier; there are esoteric driver support issues but you can still make it work with the Pi cam if you like.
I won't say that it's a difficult Linux project, but unless you've used it before I'd steer you to some of the ~$100 analog security systems. You get the advantage of more cameras at the expense of resolution. FWIW I'm unconvinced most IP camera security systems are able to be secured, so either skip the Internet integration or be aware of the risks.
With a little command-line voodoo you can have your Motion archive automatically backup to Dropbox (or even pictures to a private Twitter). Make sure you audit your camera locations with something like Wifi Analyzer for coverage before you start your build.
Just to add a little to /u/IWillNotBeBroken you can do the basics of what he suggest your self using some freely available tools. I like the android app Wifi Analyzer for doing general site surveys. It will show you what channels are in use and let you gauge your own coverage.
But generally speaking I would not trust a "good router" to handle 20+ Wifi connections. Most good routers are home user grade (linksys, netgear, etc) and not made to handle that much. Depending on the size of the area you are trying to cover I like ubiquiti for smaller places, I'm imagining you as a small office or net cafe? Get a mid range 48port switch you can can wire to all the computers and printers as needed and still have a few ports to install these wifi devices.
This is a really tricky question to answer as a Technical ProTip mainly because the solution is fundamentally local. That said I'll take a stab at some generic instructions and approaches.
There are a lot of things that can go wrong with wifi but they typically fall into a few categories:
Signal strength is fairly straightforward -- you just aren't getting enough radio strength where you want wifi. One should know that metal or stonework tends to interfere much more than drywall and wood. Another issue is human beings -- the wifi spectrum was partially chosen because those frequencies are attenuated by water. And people are basically walking bags of water. One other note -- 5ghz does not penetrate things nearly as well as 2.4ghz. In order to address this you need to either increase the power of the radio or to get the radio closer or improve the client device to something that works better with weaker signals. This is the more likely scenario when you have, say, a telco provided wifi gateway made by the lowest bidder in a large modern suburban home with metal framing and 3000 square feet. This is the scenario where wifi extenders can help.
Interference is probably the trickiest to address without fancy gear. One tool that can help -- and can help for signal strength too -- is an android app called wifi analyizer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en); the graph is more data than it really has but it can pretty effectively show you what the various signal strengths are where you are standing. Anyhow, if you live anywhere reasonably dense than 2.4ghz is probably already shot at this point while 5ghz can be getting tough. Some things one can do is to:
Finally, devices matter here. On the router side you really need some umph to deal with modern security protocols in realtime. Antennas can only do one thing at one time so MIMO is a key feature. Your 10 year old DD-WRT is not cutting the mustard. Your telco-provided wifi gateway / modem probably is not but they are getting a bit better here as people are starting to judge the services in terms of wifi performance. In any case I would run with a newer, better rated, multi-band, 3x3 MIMO enabled AP if you can swing it. Expect to spend $125 on this device. I'm not quite hung up on AC yet as AC clients aren't out there so I don't feel the need to pay that premium. If you want to get fancier I recommend looking at unifi APs as they have great radios at a pretty decent price point. If you don't have a price point just buy Ruckus.
Clients matter perhaps as much as the AP. Generally, smaller devices have a smaller antenna which typically is weaker. Professional-grade laptops tend to have more, better antennas than netbooks, etc. IoT devices are especially weak here -- they feature wifi chips and antennas made by the lowest vendor. Finally, software can matter here too -- a great antenna and chip with weak drivers is still weak.
Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...
Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number)
in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.
Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...
You might also benefit from using Google DNS which is 18.104.22.168 and 22.214.171.124 (rather than your ISP's DNS servers which are often lousy)
After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.
Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router.
(linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously)
Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other
wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"
You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)
If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler.
You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.
Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...
Is the box (router) in the basement by any chance? Basements have thick walls with lots of reinforcing materials so it can be hard for a signal to get through. Perhaps you can place it upstairs since that's where it gets the most use?
Or if you live in an apartment (high rise?) you probably have lots of WiFi signals competing in close proximity with yours. There's an app for your phone called WiFi Analyzer that can help you determine if this is the case. In this situation, I'm afraid you'll simply have to find a way to amplify your own WiFi signal which means investing in a more powerful router.
And finally you can always go wired. As in use an ethernet cable. I guarantee that you will get consistent speeds wherever you are in the house. Of course the downside with this is you have to run a physical line from the router to wherever you are.
You should also download the wifi analyzer app that is recommended by FIRST. It will tell you the use of each channel. For the best results,
switch to a channel 5 channels away from the saturated one. Here is a link to the app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
It depends. It can be very good, just like cell quality. But the very nature of wifi poses some potential issues. If your local airspace is full of interference or you have lots of wifi clients, voice quality can suffer in the form of drops, artifacts, or echo.
You can help make sure you have a wifi environment better suited for voice over wifi by making sure your wifi is broadcasting on an open channel (use an App like Wifi Analyzer to find which channel is most clear). By using 5GHz you are more likely to find clear airspace.
I'm assuming all (or most) of the devices are on WiFi?
It could be your router shitting out on you. It could also be congestion though. That first thing I'd check is what the 2.4GHz band looks like around your router and the devices connected via WiFi. If you have an android device, this app is super handy. There are also iOS apps that do the same. Ideally, everyone should be on channels 1, 6, or 11. Unfortunately, you can't really do anything about your neighbors not playing nice with that.
With an android device install WiFi Analyzer. Walk around the house until the signal is strongest, I suspect a wireless printer.
Have you looked at the Wifi Channels?
The channel you are using might be congested and causing the low throughput
I'm using Wifi Analyzer on Android to see how many networks are using the same channels in my apartment block and then setting the AP to use the least congested channel
I'm not a big Apple fan, but I'm betting that in some ways this choice is less of a deliberate decision than an omission. Because Apple doesn't allow access to hardware except through fairly restrictive APIs, apps can't do things unless Apple makes a way for you to do it (a good example: file system access). Eventually, I'd bet that they will provide an API to talk to the NFC. But I'm betting that they won't allow certain things (like payment apps) to use it. If they do plan to allow some API access to the NFC, they're probably hard at work locking it down so people can only do what Apple wants them to with it. There is, of course, the possibility that they will never open it up, too.
This is the same reason that you have these handy WiFi scanner apps (for doing impromptu little site surveys or just checking on what channels are the clearest in your home) on Android, but no equivalent on iOS devices. They just don't provide the access to get that kind of information from the wireless chipset. At least that's my understanding of the matter.
Para Android, existe o Wifi Analyzer
Install this shit, walk around your house and adjust signal/position/channel accordingly.
Is this for all wifi devices that you own? If so, use wifi analyzer and try switching to a less congested channel, e.g. 1, 6, or 11 in your router settings.
>interference could be maybe
Sounds like it. Head over to the play store and install Wifi Analizer. If you're on iOS, you're out of luck Apple has banned these basic utilities. There are several options for OSX and Win, just do a search for wifi scanning tool.
Run a scan and see how many other networks are in your area and determine hat channels they are operating in. Then try and chose a channel with the least noise/interference.
This may be impossible in apartment complexes in the 2.4GHz band, in which case you'll need to upgrade your devices to a 5GHz band.
DNS has no effect of what you're doing.
I have an app on my phone that is basically a WIFI spectrum analyser.
It will show you at a glance what WIFI channels are in use and what is available.
Set a channel on your travelling router that no one else is using and you're golden.
>So off I went, plugged it in, set up a network just between my laptop and the router, got into the admin panel, changed wifi names (reception in my room is quite bad so added benefit I thought)(1), disabled the DHCP server, set its local ip to the static ip(2) I assigned in the main router, applied changes and while rebooting I plugged in the ethernet cable to the main router. It worked! Glorious internet and wifi all in my room. Now time to put it in a more sensible position (not the middle of my desk).
Sound like you are trying to setup a WiFi accesspoint/switch to the existing network by with the end goal of connecting the WAN port on your router to a LAN port on the building - does that sound right?
I think if you just removed the static IP prior to rebooting AP and plugging into the buildings LAN port you would have been fine.
0.0% is the only acceptable amount, I really can't stress this enough.
Basically what's happening is the viewer is shooting bullets of data at your viewer which is then failing to catch some of those bullets.
This UDP data is intended for time sensitive information that has no value after the moment has passed. For example, avatar movement is sent over UDP, if the viewer misses some of this, it makes no sense to send the old out of date data again.
However .. SL still sends some actually important data out over UDP, which you miss .. and then things break.
If you're on wifi, and can't switch to a wired connection. Try to make sure you have line of sight to your router from the computers antenna (laptops have it in the back or top of the screen). Metal can bounce the signal like a fair ground mirror, block it or mess it up. Other electronics can mess with the signal, or trash it completely (microwave oven). Water will block it entirely .. you're made of water (so don't sit between your computer and the router - pipes in walls are bad too)
If you have an android phone there are apps that will show you the signal strength of all the different wifi signals it can pick up (like this one), and will help you diagnose where in your home the signal is poor. too much wifi on the same channel can also cause problems and (if) you should be able to manually set your router to pick a less busy channel rather than "auto".
If you can run a ethernet cable from your router to your computer you will have a better time (and much faster, more reliable network speeds).
If you're on a wired connection already and having a persistent problem, then its likely a hardware issue - the ethernet cable might be bad, one thing to try is switch the router off before bed and back on when you wake, failing that .. it's time to call your ISP and hope you can get someone to take you serious when you say you have "packet loss with UDP data" .. and have the patience to jump though all the hoops.
It's been a while, but I believe so. I think this is it.
You should run a wifi analyzer and see how crowded the wifi channels are
>any good tool (preferably
you can use your phone with a wifi analyzer such as:
or Inssider for PC (I think the latest version is free you will need only to create an account)
I suggest to another users that could be an issue with the 5Ghz network channels. Because my PS5 can handle 5Ghz just fine.
I never got any response, so I'm not sure if it's the issue or not.
Can you check wich channels are your 5GHz network using? You can use a phone app like this one.
Vorrei aggiungere due cose:
try on Ethernet and report back. wifi analyzer might be of some help
some routers use automatic switching between channels but sometimes they aren't so smart. you might try a less busy channel
According to the 670G user guide page 339 / pdf page 357, you should keep your pump at least 1 metre away from 802.11b, 11g, 11n transmitters (and presumably 11ax as well). If they've actually thoroughly tested that then it's conceivable your wifi router is pumping out more power than it ought to.
I can't see how the speed of your internet being upgraded would have any direct influence unless perhaps a reset of your router to a default channel was involved.
Plenty of routers and devices these days will work in the 5GHz part of the spectrum, so if all your devices will talk at 5GHz you could just disable the 2.4GHz network entirely. 5GHz signals don't penetrate through walls as well as 2.4GHz ones do, so if you have a larger home this might not be an option.
2.4GHz wifi signals are centered on a number of channels depending upon which country's radio regulation system they are subject to. In the US channels 1 (2412MHz) through 11 (2462MHz) are available. Try changing it to either 1 or 11 to see if you can eliminate the pump interference that way.
Some routers have a setting for either 20MHz or 40MHz of bandwidth: 20MHz will interfere to some extent up to 2 channels away in either direction, while 40MHz will interfere to some extent up to 4 channels away. Switch it to 20MHz if you have the option, your 15Mbps won't be bottlenecked.
Some routers have a power level setting; dialling this back may also help.
It's conceivable that it's not your network at all but coincidentally a neighbour's: if you have a smartphone try Wifi Analyzer for Android which I use myself, or I believe NetSpot has equivalent functionality on iOS. Should let you see which wifi networks in your vicinity are using which channel and how powerful their signals are where you are. For reference my (20MHz bandwidth) 2.4GHz network is on channel 5 and most of the places I use it from it has a signal strength of about -50dBm and doesn't give me any pump issues.
You have too much interference. 2.4 has 3 channels-1,6,or 11. If you take your two plus half of the others you have 7, which means each channel has two different signals competing.
Make sure your extender matches your router SSID, put them both on the same channel, and move your cordless phones as far away as possible until you can throw them out. The bases are always sending locator signals out, so it's constant signal interference.
If you have an android device, download WIFI Analyzer from farproc. It will show you all of your interference and help you see what is causing it. If you have Apple products, then you get what you deserve.
Well there's a couple things I've noticed.
You need a halfway decent PC. I tried VD through my brothers PC which has an Intel i5 something in it, and a 1060 gpu, and every game is a stuttery mess.
On my PC, which is still pretty dated, 4790k and 1080ti, it's buttery smooth in all games.
Also, the quest 2 should be connected to a 5ghz network. You want a good strong signal and not have the router on one side of the house while you're playing on the other side of the house. Make sure you're seeing good connection speeds to your router. Also, I've read that wifi interference can play a role in this so try and use a wifi analyzer app on the android store and check which channels are showing up around your area. You want to pick a channel that's not overlapping with another. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US&gl=US
Also, did you try any other games? I've really only had issues with 1 game through VD, but most of them work great.
Make sure you don't have a ton of stuff running in the background of your PC. I've had this make my experience not so smooth.
Lastly, it does help a bit if your PC is hardwired to your router. It will make for a slightly smoother experience, although a perfect WIFI setup can work.
> WiFi Analyzer
I've been using Farproc's WiFi Analyzer for years and years. It hasn't been updated for a while but it still works on Android 10.
That being said, recently I've been using the Ubiquiti Wi-Fi app WiFiman instead:
There are various mobile apps that will show you all the networks in your area and their channels and relative signal strength. It's at least helpful for finding better channels to use. I use Wifi Analyzer on Android.
The only thing that I really miss from Android is the ability to fully examine your wireless environment using an app like Wifi Analyzer. It allows you to see what channels wifi in your area is using and the relative strengths. This is handy information if you are planning wireless networks. It really just means I have to drag my LG V30 with me if I want to do any of that kind of work.
Move it just to test it temporarily. It's a troubleshooting step to see if that does fix the issue and help confirm if your existing connections are the actual problem. Wifi bouncing stuff back and forth is definitely a problem. The more you have actively using a wifi channel, the more those signals have to "share" it and get undercut. Even great wifi that has a strong connection can still see the signal be wobbly enough that is messes with what Plex is trying to do. Plex calculates what bandwidth it thinks it has, and having wifi in the chain makes that calculation incorrect before it can recalculate and correct to account for it. If you have a smartphone on the same wifi and channel that decides it wants to update all it's apps, you lose bandwidth. If you are in an apartment complex and a neighbor comes home and fires up Netflix over a wifi connection, you can lose bandwidth.
Have you done a wifi scan at your home before? It's pretty fascinating and worth taking a swing at. There are some smartphone apps that let you do it really easily.
This is the one on Android I've been using for as long as I can remember. Check if your channel is clogged up and maybe force using another channel.
I used WiFi Analyzer on Android and monitor the dBm as I walk around.
Your internet speed is irrelevant for ALVR and Virtual Desktop. What matters is your local network speed.
Getting yourself a wifi analyzer app and adjust your wifi router so it's on the least congested channel. There are other settings to tweak but this will be the most significant factor.
They'll have an antenna on the back panel of the case. An external antenna may or may not perform better. If you're a great distance from your wifi router, you may need a wifi extender, which is basically a second router. There are phone apps that allow you to test wifi strength.
Which one? There's many apps with that name. I use both of these, and they both work for me:
More than likely this one, I have been using it for years for easy WiFi troubleshooting in your hand. It is not as good as InSSIDer on a laptop with a dongle, but can find simple things very easily.
I was going to say that.
If you have an Android phone get ---> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_AU
Check the list (2.4ghz and also 5ghz) make sure you aren't overlapping any other wireless networks. If you are, or are close, change your modem/router to a clear channel.
a wifi spectral analysis tool would be really good here to figure out where your deadzones are.I personally use this:https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
then from there, you can research if you need a repeater or if you need to dive deeper. Depending on the age and size of your house, you may need to research a good repeater or maybe even buy a second wifi router that can act as a repeater.
Mesh networks are really used for the gigantic mansions and places where the floor space exceeds 2500 sqft.
Even then, type-N and type-AC wifi should have the ability to broadcast strong enough to cover that kind of space. You might just need to relocate your wifi router into a more central place in your house
Ya, makes sense - apartment complexes are notorious for having wifi interference. Basically every wifi device, phone, tablet, laptop, everything are all fighting for dominance from every neighbor, etc.
If you want an eye-opener, try this on a cell phone to see what a nightmare you have there in your area for both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. 5 GHz is faster but shorter range/weaker, while 2.4 GHz is slower and stronger but has way more devices generally fighting each other.
Here is the Google Play link to the one I use. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
Wifi Analyzer for Android is pretty handy. You can wander around your house and see the signal strength, and the interference from your neighbors' networks.
Hint: If you're in a crowded neighborhood and still on 2.4Ghz, fix that first. There aren't enough non-overlapping channels in the 2.4GHz wifi band to support any amount of busy neighbors.
Generically, you log into your router, and go into the wifi configuration part
your routers IP address is your gateway address, usually.
You can use use something like this on an android phone to check out your wifi channel situation
Question, have you tested an ethernet connection to make sure your internet in general is working fine and that the problem is only the wifi?
No problem. You can check signal strength and channel congestion with a cell phone - look up 'Wifi Analyzer' and try that.
Having a bit of networking knowledge is helpful.
You could add range extenders, or have a separate access point with the same SSID. There's also 'Powerline' adapters as a more extreme option. It's probably not necessary in most cases though.
If you have your own router, and it's newer (my situation) broadcast both the 2.4 GHz and 5.0 GHz bands. 2.4 will propagate better, but has lower throughput. 2.4 is also used in microwaves, cordless devices, and other networks - so experiences a lot of traffic. Usually the 5 GHz band is less saturated.
You can name both however you want (even the same), and the device will usually bounce back and forth as needed.
Also, maybe try a free WiFi analyzer to make sure you aren't using the same band as all of your neighbors.
Another tip is to elevate the router closer to the ceiling and away from other objects (especially big metal cabinets, etc.) if possible.
All my capsman deployments have been with basic 2.4GHz radios for barcode scanners so I'm not super familiar with running a hAP AC with capsman.
That said, I think you need to add extension channels to your 5GHz config in capsman. You've posted your /wireless config but I'm pretty sure it all gets "commented out" by capsman, so it's really just showing you what your radios would be doing if cap mode wasn't enabled.
If you have an Android phone, I highly recommend the app Wifi Analyzer. In the settings for the app, you can enable displaying wide channels. Then on the graph it displays, you'll see a wider parabola over the frequencies your hAP is taking up.
Okay. I'm assuming you've got the newest drivers from the other comment above- I'll leave it up to you to find any common issues with that wireless adapter.
With you being in an apartment, you're very likely to have radio interference from neighbors..but you say your other devices work fine..
Are you testing all your devices on the same wifi network? How do you know you're connected using 5ghz? Do you have 2.4ghz turned off on your router or is it separated with a separate SSID? I'm asking because interference is much more likely on the 2.4Ghz band (and still possible on the 5Ghz band).
If you're curious, you could use an app to view which channels are being used in your vicinity, and see if you have any kind of overlap with neighbors.
If you have an android device you can use this app
if you have a macOS device here is another
for windows here
I'm happy to interpret your results if you need help.
I use Wi-fi Analyser for Android.
It'll show you all the received SSID, what channel they are on, hardware ID, signal strength meter so you can track down what's broadcasting a particular SSID.
You should jump over to /r/homenetworking for better help. But for starters, download a wifi analyzer like this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
The issue with Google WiFi is that while it's only 1 wireless hop from your device to the mesh station, then it's a wireless hop from that to the next mesh station. and another to the next. And so on until it gets to the main station. That latency adds up quick.
There's a myriad of solutions though, but my first step would really be to analyze your WiFi as it exists and see if it's something as simple as you're just sitting on a highly used channel or are underpowering certain radios. Those cost absolutely nothing, and can breathe new life into an existing setup instantly.
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Then at first sight there is no network problem. Try to do the same pathping again when you detect the connection is failing to see if there is still a 0%.
If you encounter any losing packets on any IP with pathping, you can use https://www.ripe.net/ to search who is the owner of that IP and send a support case to Blizzard and the Owner of the IP (probably an ISP).
If you still do not encounter any losing packets, then probably you are the problem.
Do you use DHCP on your router? if that is the case maybe you have something like 1 hour ip address expiration time and when expired, your computer renews it forcing a micro cut. Check your router configuration.
Do you connect via WIFI? check that you are not using an overexposed wifi channel on your router configuration. I particularly like this android APP https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer to check what channels are more free in my building/area to configure my wifi channel.
I use this one on my android phone as its quick and simple
There should be one for apple if you are an iphone user.
If you are familiar with some wifi tools in linux and have the proper wifi adapter, you can use airodump-ng
There must be some apps you can download as well if you are a windows user.
This could be useful. I would really like a tool that would give me -60 dBm to -30 dBm like a geiger counter, but update faster. Like the Signal Meter function on the Android App https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US but that updates fast, not every 15 seconds or so like the app does, and one that tells me with some signal difference whether I'm a few feet away vs. dozens of feet away.
It's possible that you may just be experiencing channel interference. This is especially common in apartments where everyone has their own router. You can use a Wi-Fi analyzer app to see which channels are more or less populated and select the one with the fewest networks and then manually select that channel in the router's Wi-Fi configuration. You'll have to do this for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. Then use the same app to test your Wi-Fi signal around the apartment and see if you have any dead zones. If you've done all that, and you're still having issues, then yes, you probably need a new router.
Ahh, may want to poke his WiFi. Usually when doing shared SSID/PSK without a controller, you want some management on the ethernet; unless the other APs are repeaters. Next time you get a look, check what flags are used on their WiFi..
WiFi Analyser can help, and look for preauth - If it's not present, then it'll connect to whichever one responds first, which isn't always the strongest.
> Nota-se muito uma perda de qualidade na ligação?
Depende de muitas variáveis, distância, interferências, tipo de construção, etc. Se tiveres vizinhos, não é pior instalares o WiFi Analyzer no telemóvel e verificar que canais estão livres.
Além de repetidores simples, podes sempre adicionar um Access Point, ligado por cabo ao router principal e colocar num ponto diferente da casa.
Na Radio Popular: https://www.radiopopular.pt/categoria/redes-wi-fi-internet/
Se quiseres gastar pouco dinheiro, o RE200 não é mau de todo para utilização doméstica, ou mesmo o WA850RE. Em alternativa (e mais caro), os da Asus.
Powerline, não recomendo e sou completamente contra, devido às interferências que causam.
The ones provided by ISPs are of varying quality. BT claims there's is good (I beleive it is) and uses it as the main selling point of their internet offerings. Personally I got an ASUS DSL-AC67U years ago, and its been fantastic (so quality of the ISP-provided router is irrelevant to me, it juts sits in its box), but it's also expensive beyond what is reasonable for most people's use cases.
It's worth diving in to the provided router's settings page first, and investigating a few things:
Can you seperate the 5ghz and 2.4ghz in to two seperately named networks? This way you can connect devices close enough to the faster 5ghz network, and devices further away to the slower, but longer ranged 2.4. Most devices that are capable of both will prefer 5ghz - fine, but not always what you want when you are on the range limit.
Can you change the channel of the two networks? Many ISP routers default to a particular channel - which may be a crowded one. You can get a wifi scanner app for your phone (I use this one https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_GB) to see which channels have the least other networks on and switch to that.
If any of your devices that are having trouble are fixed in place, you could also look in to either a network cable, or failing that, powerline adapters - these transmit network signals through your domestic wiring. How well it works depends on a bunch of factors, but it can work very well indeed. You can also get powerline wifi extenders, which are normally a better bet than the "wifi-wifi extenders" which are problematic in a whole bunch of ways.
I asked cuz OP wants to buy a range extender, but if you don't have a router in your apartment where would you plug it in? Range extenders are meant to be plugged into the router, not the computer, afaik. Someone should definitely start by locating the router or modem. If you can't find it, use an app like this one to measure the signal strength and play a game of getting warmer to find it.
The slow speeds could be 1) due to WiFi signal interference OR 2) due to slow or congested Internet to the router. Either way, OP's idea probably won't help. The best way to determine the cause is to plug your computer directly via ethernet into the modem/router and then do a speed test with this website. Save a screenshot of the results. If the wired connection speed is fast, it is due to cause #1, if slow then cause #2.
1) If it is WiFi signal interference, the best solution is to add a 5 GHz WiFi range extender (preferably wireless-ac) which should ideally be connected via wired ethernet to the modem.
2) If it is slow connection from modem to ISP, the ONLY solution is for the ISP to do something. Call Spectrum (I assume that's your ISP) and ask them to send a technician out. Ask them to check the cable connection (sometimes these old cables are bad), and ask them to check that the modem is good (old modems might not support higher speeds).
Try to narrow channel band to 40Mhz (enought even for 120Mbps)
and set a static channel by checking less bussy one with
Both great choices.
I have the TPlink and it’s fantastic. Had an older TPlink and after 7 years it started to crap out (wifi started dropping). Our home is two levels and signal is great everywhere on 2.5 and 5
The Asus is meant to be very good too and (I think, you’ll need to check) firmware available to turn into a mesh system, meaning you can have multiple ones in your big place and it will work as one. That’s would be a big plus for you in case you need better coverage later.
5ghz problems, try setting different channels on the router, you can use an android app (apple doesn’t seem to have something as good for free) called wifi analyser https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer and see if there interference
The 3rd choice is good too, has two 5ghz wifi channels, TPlink also has similar, ac5400 I think, that will be cheaper about the price of the asus 86. It has a really fast 2.4ghz signal too.
Choice is yours, I have used to link routers and really happy with them (price is good too) support in Australia is a local team that answers the phone quickly, not a call centre.
I have read the asus are about the best but no experience with them.
My choice would be TPlink ac5400, currently their top router, or the similar asus.
If the ping spikes happen within the router IPs then yeah something definitely happened internally. I used to use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en to scan for wifi signal overlaps and pick a fixed channel away from the crowded channels on router setting.
I also reduced broadcast power down to 75% and insure i still have 4 to max bars. Tweaked Wifi adapter properties that scans for the router more often to prevent connection timeout to router. Increased the send and receive buffer size and disable jumbo frames to reduce data packets transfer delay.
That doesn't make any sense at all. The wi-fi quality it's not your countries fault, most probably your router is set to a saturated channel. I recommend using the WiFi Analyzer App, which shows you how crowded a channel is:
Also, you have the option to buy a 5G wi-fi router as well, which probably will do much better because this wave length is much less used, and capable of handling a much higher bandwidth.
If you have an Android...
Find out if your channels are being flooded
Então cara, o que tava te passando até agora era sobre rede cabeada, se está pensando em testar a conexão pelo Wi-Fi acho melhor nem começar... Vou te explicar o porquê.
A rede Wi-Fi que temos hoje trabalha em uma radiofrequência aberta de 2.4GHz, por se tratar de uma frequência aberta ela não necessita de liberação/homologação logo se tornou o padrão de todos os roteadores. O problema é que essas redes de Wi-Fi causam interferência entre si caso estejam em frequências próximas. O roteador convencional tem 11 canais entrei 2.4(Canal 1) e 2.49(Canal 11). Esses canais podem ser alterados direto no roteador, e pra saber qual melhor canal se encaixa é necessário analisar na sua área quais os canais mais congestionados, os mais usados para Wi-Fi são 1,3,6,9,11 com cada região tendo suas preferências e/ou lendas/mitos pra explicar qual funciona melhor. Tem esse aplicativo para Android que ajuda a analisar quais os melhores canais aí por perto. Sobre o Wi-Fi 5G, ele é meio que uma solução pro problema atual do 2.4GHz tanto pra parte da interferência quanto pra parte da velocidade, porém pra poder conectar nele o equipamento precisa ser b/g/n/ac pois o AC significa que é compátivel com redes 5Ghz. Ele tem capacidade para conexões acima de 100mb enquanto o 2.4GHz eu particularmente nunca vi passar de 80 +/-
Use this app on your phone an use the signal strength to find the AP. It has an analogue guage and if you hit the sound button it starts beeping, the beeping will get faster the closer you get to the AP.
It should take you straight to it.
Si c'est la box ça peut être qu'elle est fatiguée (le SAV SFR peut diagnostiquer ça et la remplacer, ils ont fait ça pour mes parents).
Peut être aussi que ta box émet le Wifi sur un canal encombré. Télécharge l'appli Wifi Analyzer (Android), pour scanner les canaux (fais ça à côté de ta box, mais aussi à côté de ton PC récepteur). Regarde les canaux environnants, et choisis-en un pas encombré.
Exemple avec le réseau de mes parents que j'avais scanné pour optimiser. Ma box est sur la droite, sur les bandes les moins encombrées (canal 11), avec le moins d'atténuation, donc le meilleur signal. Les autres box se battent en duel sur les canaux encombrés.
Moca 2 adapters that will do 1gb/s are fairly expensive, you need 2 of them so a total of $140 per link. However, this approach plus a cheap access point will give you better coverage than having a single more expensive access point.
Measure the strength of your wifi and your neighbors at various points around your house. You want to set your access points to channels with the least amount of interference, for the best performance.
If you have an android phone I recommend this app:
ok.. I see you have an android device, try out this WiFi Analyzer
it will allow you to find the least congested channel frequencies and it also gives you suggestions which channel might be best to use.
the thing with WiFi, especially the 5GHz band, is you can be sitting at one spot, have excellent signal but as soon as you move, even a few inches, the signal level drops.
that's WiFi for you, and tbh there is nothing Comcast can do about it other than replacing a defective rental gateway.
despite their constant commercials harping on their "fastest wifi", the only thing they can and will do is get you good signal to the modem, and if the expected speeds are achieved testing via ethernet, then their job is done.
TV is for me linked it below
One thing you can check would be for wifi interference. You can use a wifi scanner app for your phone (I really like Wifi Analyzer on Android, it's free and open source) and see if there are e.g. a bunch wifi networks on the same channel as yours.
It sounds like Wi-Fi problems to me. Try with a wired connection and see if still happens or not.
If you have lots of other Wi-Fi signals around you this can cause problems. This app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer may help. You can try manually changing channels on your router.
There also could be some device like a microwave or cordless phone causing interference.
Get yourself a wifi analyzer app and make sure your TPCast router is not on the same channel as any other wifi access point. If there is another device using the same channel (or partially overlapping) you're going to have performance issues.
If you look at the sample photo the "home" wireless access point is isolated on it's own channel where all the other ones have full or partial overlap which will affect overall performance. So when you change your TPCast channel make sure it's not in use by another device. Read the instructions here on how to access the router config and make changes.
In addition to the channel also try changing the channel bandwidth to 20mhz instead of auto/80mhz. Since the TPCast is the only device using the router you don't need the wider channel bandwidth and it just leads to more overlap/conflict with other routers.
I've heard other users have gotten good results changing the Network Mode from "11vht AC/AN/A" to "11a only" but I personally didn't a notice any difference.
For me the major performance hit is when another wireless access point is on the same channel as my TPCast router and before every gaming session I check to make sure none of my neighbors are on the same channel.
I don't have a Rift but Vive has two audio output sources (HDMI and USB) you can use.
If you use USB with TPCast the audio goes over the wifi connection but if you use HDMI it goes over the 60ghz connection. If you have the option you might want to try one or the other and see if you get better results.
Small stutters could be from wifi interferance. Get yourself a Wifi Analyzer and make sure your TPCast router isn't fighting for bandwidth with another wifi access point near you.
Also, you can try switching modes used on the router to "11a only" as some folks have reported better results this way.
Asta e viteza când routerul merge în standardul G. Standardele de WiFi sunt B (cel mai vechi și lent), G, N, AC (cel mai nou și rapid). Routerul suportă măcar N sau AC?
Problemă ar putea fi (deși mai improbabil) cu calculatorul... dacă e un laptop destul de vechi, ar putea să nu suporte decât standardul G. Vezi dacă și pe alte device-uri merge lent.
Altă problemă ar putea fi, cum au spus și ceilalți, interferența cu alte routere. Sunt tooluri cu care poți verifica cât sunt de aglomerate canalele de wifi (de exemplu). Banda 2.4GHz pe care merg majoritatea routerelor e destul de aglomerată, ai wifi-urile vecinilor, bluetooth, cuptorul cu microunde care tot pe frecvența asta emit. E posibil ca setarea routerului să meargă pe 5 GHz (trebuie să scrie pe el că suportă 5GHz) să se rezolve problema.
I’m thinking start simple, which would presume good hardware until the easy stuff of troubleshooting software is figured out. The premise is to keep eliminating variables.
A few questions come to mind:
• How strong is the signal - is this happening usually in the same area? Walls and such could cause a low/unstable connection if you’re far from the access point.
Test: Go within a few feet of, but not right next to, the access point and try then after restarting the XD.
• You could download a WiFi scanner software for Android which will show you all the access points,, channels, etc for where you are. Some things to look for would be overlapping channels within the same frequency, crowded frequency (too many different access points), etc.
This is the one I’ve used in the past: WiFi Analyzer
• Has it been a while since the access point was restarted? It’s not a bad idea to restart them every so often. It’s at least worth a shot to keep troubleshooting.
• Is there another access point you could try such as a neighbor or even use your phone as an access point (hotspot)? Would be worth a try, at least.
Let’s see how those pan out...
Αν αφορά μόνο wifi, ίσως η λύση να ειναι απλή. Ας δοκιμασει με το innSSIDer Lite(Windows,download page σε στελνει απευθειας) ή κατι όπως το Wifi Analyzer(Android). Σε μικρη πόλη μένω και με τόσα άλλα wifi γύρω μου, με ~4 wifi συσκευες δυσκολεύομαι και στα 4μέτρα μερικες φορές με το αθλιο free router της forthnet.
Με αυτά τα προγράμματα όμως βρήκα σε ποιο channel πρέπει να εκπεμπει το router για να μην υπαρχει "electrical infetterence", όπως έλεγε και η pasta, με τους γείτονές μου.
I use wiFi Analyzer on Android, and inSSIDer when on my laptop.
EDIT: I gess inSSIDer is paid now, but you can still google "inSSIDer 126.96.36.199" for the older free version.
It could be channel congestion or interference from another device like hands free home phones.
Download WiFi Analyzer on your mobile and see which WiFi channel is clear and set your WiFi router to that channel.
Also some routers allow you to set the output power for the WiFi signal, try adjusting that as well.
The wifi part could definitely contribute to poor performance though. Get yourself a wifi analyzer app and make sure your router isn't on the same channel as a neighbors router and is competing for bandwidth.
I tend to check before every VR session as my neighbors router has a tendency to jump on the same channel as my TPCast and cause problems. I don't see a difference but I feel it to where I've gotten sick and had to stop playing.
You can fix that in the device manager: https://imgur.com/6gXsHPw
Just run NETSH WLAN start hostednetwork again afterwards.
You can use a tool like this to verify that it's only broadcasting at 5GHz.
Set a static wifi channel in your router at home. Use the wifi analyzer app to check which channel will give you a better signal at home
So I don't know if you know much about the topic, but simply, WiFi can broadcast on different frequencies called channels. Imagine FM radio. Using that app we can find the least polluted one. There's even a view in the app with channel rating.
Then, log in to your router. Instructions will be different depending on your manufacturer. There will be an option in the settings for broadcast channel. Change that from auto to the one you want.
I would recommend wiring your pc. You buy a long cable and tuck it under your carpet or something similar. It sounds like you'll see dramatically better results
I helped a friend debug a similar issue, ran WiFi Analyzer and noticed a ton of congestion with neighbors all at channel 1 of 2.4 GHz. Moved the router to use a much less congested channel and also moved the phone to use the 5GHz band instead. I realize that's not likely an issue for you but the Analyzer app can be useful in debugging.
Install that (if you have Android, look for something similar if you have an apple phone). It will scan for all networks and show you conflicts, changing your WiFi setting to what they recommend should help.
5ghz is generally faster and often has less conflicts due to people all using old 2.4ghz routers. My apartment building has 40 odd 2.4ghz networks but only 6 or 7 5ghz networks
I use this one...
OP uses https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
I use https://f-droid.org/app/org.bitbatzen.wlanscanner
(Also on Gplay: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.bitbatzen.wlanscanner )
It's not much but I use WiFi Analyzer for Android.
I'm on a Vive but hopefully some of this will be useful to you....
In my opinion the paper instructions weren't very good but connecting the hardware is easy enough as everything has nice labels. A goes to A, B goes to B, etc... The pairing of the transmitter and receiver is probably the most common step people skip by accident.
When you install the software it will ask for the router SSID and password. There may be a sticker on the router with this information but not the one you want to use... You want the information from the sticker on the power box (place where you attach the battery).
Finding the optimal spot to place the video transmitter might not be obvious as putting high and pointing it down. I would spend some time putting it in various places and see what works best. Chances are you'll get a signal just about everywhere so it won't cut out completely. However, you'll notice the image quality suffers in some spots more than others. I was able to find a spot that works very well for my case but it wasn't in the recommended "next to one of the lighthouses" like the instructions recommend.
Get yourself a wifi analyzer and make sure the TPCast router is not fighting for bandwidth with another nearby router. I have a neighbor who's router sometimes uses the same channel as my TPCast and while I don't visually notice any lag I've had a few instances where I felt myself getting sick from it. It was bad enough where I check every time I start a session.
Even if you don't use OpenTPCast you should read their guide on optimizing the router especially the recommendation to run independently from your home router.
I use OpenTPCast but it sounds like the official software supports the mic now. You can find a download link but it hasn't been publicly released yet on their website. I'd ask on the TPCast Discord for the full story though as I've seen conflicting info.
Wifi can be kind of unstable when gaming sometimes, no idea if this is the actual problem you are facing, but it's worth checking out.
Sorry if I explain something you already knew:
Wifi transfers its data through one of 14 channel, slightly different (but overlapping) frequencies to make one wifi signal more distinct than another. If it's been a long time since you rebooted your router, and there are multiple networks nearby, it could be that you are in the same channel as many others around you, which results in loss of data (which causes lag).
If you have an android smartphone, this will be an useful app where you can see what your channel is compared to the other networks in your area. If you see that the 'arc' of your wifi connection overlaps many others, it's best to reboot your router so it can recheck what channel is ideal to use. (most routers have that functionality, if rebooting does nothing you can always manually change settings in the router). There should be alternative apps for iPhone too, just search for wifi analyzer or wifi channels, something like that.
Also worth noting: Is your router near other electrical devices? A microwave, as example, seriously messes up the signal. So if someone in your house was preparing food you'd notice that. In tech support I seriously had a costumer angry that her internet stopped working like clockwork on 6:30 until 6:40pm, turns out her husband was using the microwave to defrost stuff around that time, with the router on the microwave..
Try the 5ghz band and if that doesn't help then set your routers 2.4ghz band to a different channel and see if that helps. I usually use this app to find the least congested channel.
Online game play doesn't need a lot of bandwidth. The issue is going to be the strength and quality of your connections. There's the connection between the Switch and the router\AP and the quality of your internet connection in general (such as the signal strength of your cable signal, if you have cable internet).
You can try some internet tests.
These are just a few options. They'll help focus on where is the issue. If your wifi signal strength isn't great for the switch's location and you can't move it, and you can't run an ethernet cable (which would be best) you could use a powerline adapter. If your internet is the problem, that's a bit harder to nail down. Like if it's cable, is the signal strength in the proper range, are there errors from your provider, is the cable made properly in general, etc.
My 5ghz is set to channel 40 and the 2.4ghz is on channel 7. I used an Android app called "Wifi Analyizer" to find the least congested channels in my apartment complex.
I'd first suggest trying this (Specifically the do not allow computer to turn off adapter option). If that fails then, I'd suggest using a wireless network diagnostic tool similar to this, to see if there's interference from say your neighbour's wi-fi network. If there is interference, then I'd suggest switching your wi-fi channels to something less utilised in the area. Good Luck!
Are you on Android? Download WiFi Analizer and see what channel you're on relative to all the others.
Whats your budget?
You say it is running slow - but your talking about the WiFi.. Older laptops would be using the 2.4Ghz band and depending on how much WiFi traffic there is all around you that could be why it is running slow.. Any new system you get that is using the 2.4 will have the same speed issues..
So one you have to see if you WiFi Gateway supports the new 5Ghz channels? If NOT get your Internet Provider to change it out.. They have newer ones now that will do both 2.4 and 5 GHz WiFi..
Then you have a few choices.. If your current laptop does not support 5 GHz you could get a USB WiFi adapter that does support the 5GHz band and that should help with the Internet slowness.. Or a New Laptop that supports 5 GHz WiFi..
Other ways to speed up a laptop is to replace the Internal Hard Drive with an SSD and that will make a WORLD of difference in how snappy the laptop responds (If you have a good Internet connection if the Laptop is using 2.4 GHz on a crowded network [ this being ALL the WiFi's in your area like when you see them all in the connection list but they are not yours)..
Here is an article about WiFi and 2.4 GHz / 5 GHz: https://www.howtogeek.com/222249/whats-the-difference-between-2.4-ghz-and-5-ghz-wi-fi-and-which-should-you-use/
My sister has this issue and I upgraded all of their laptops to SSD's (they are very happy with their 5+ year old Laptops)
I also had them upgrade to better WiFi USB 5GHz adapters and they say it is like they have whole new computers..
There are other solution.. Like Tiny PC's that you would have in the kitchen like the Intel NUC PC's and others, but they require external Monitors / Keyboards / mouse..
Or All-in-One PC's (This has a PC inside the monitor and an external Keyboard / mouse
Also another option is a tablet w/ keyboard
Like a Microsoft Surface..
It all depends on your budget..
Aslo to see how much WiFi traffic you have in your house get an app for your phone..
For Android (Which I use) I have 3 I like..
Using Wifi Analyzer:
2.4GHz looks good. Note my Wifi strength shows full in the status bar as well.
5GHz is limited with my AP, which is why I don't typically use it. It gets good throughput to the MiBox downstairs, which is physically near the router. But I don't use it for any other devices.
Keep in mind that this is isolated to this specific device. I powered up my oneplus 3T and didn't experience any issues, nor has my wife on her 3T. I'm not having any issues on my laptop currently.
this is what I use to test my signal strength along with the PS4 network status in settings. Need better than 80% signal to stream smoothly.
Only the recent PS4 Slims and Pro's have 5Ghz, though. You can try the 2.4 Ghz but it sucks for me even with a strong signal. Just too spotty to stream well. Granted, it works fine for netflix, so my guess is PS Now uses a lot more data handling than Netflix does.
If anyone else in the house is streaming vids at the same time, it can slow it down too.
My PS4 Slim uses 5Ghz. It's all I use, the 2.4 Ghz won't give me a good enough signal on it. Maybe you can check on your PS4?
5Ghz has a small distance, though, so it's not as wide an area as 2.4 Ghz. My guess is the 5 Ghz signal it too weak to make it down there. Concrete offers a lot of interference to wifi, so it can make a good connection spotty because the signal has to travel through all that rock.
I use this app to test my signals around the house.
Like my garage gets a bad connection and even the front of the house, the back of the house is fine for 5 Ghz. 2.4 Ghz is stronger, but I get about half the throughput on that frequency.
If it is your last resort option, by all means knock yourself out. However, it should be just that, a last resort, for example if your 2.4/5GHz channels are full of interference and you literally can't run an ethernet cable or similar (I know you're in a shared apartment so that's not an option).
I would grab a second hand 802.11n Ubiquiti UniFi - they are about $40 these days if you shop around, complete with passive PoE adapter, amazing wireless access points and you get far, far more than what you pay for. For half that you can get an Airrouter(HP) from the same company; which are decent in their own right but not quite to the standard of the former. Do your homework first, though, they're enterprise-grade kit and it shows.
If you have an Android smartphone, give this a try, as I suspect your router might be set to a congested channel. If your router and clients support channel hopping, turn it on (since it will automatically switch to the least congested channel as and when needed).
You have to be also mindful of the fact that power line Ethernet essentially turns your mains wiring into a sizeable antenna and it will knock out RF from DC-300MHz in every direction for as much as several miles in the worst cases. That covers shortwave, FM radio, amateur, airband, DAB and radar; and can cause all kinds of issues. Also, the moment a large inductive load appears on the same main (washing machine, vacuum cleaner, power tools, etc.) your throughput speed is going to drop through the floor. Hence why it's a "last resort nuclear option".
Do you have an android phone? Download the Wifi Analyzer (its also in the windows 10 store i beloeve)to see what wifi channel your router is on. For 2.4ghz put it it on either 1, 6 or 11, ( the 3 non-overlapping channels)which ever has the least number of clients.
Is your router using 2.4 or 5ghz wifi?
5ghz will give you more speed but less range, and it also has a lot less interference with other wifi channels and things like microwaves. usually 2.4 is super crowded in apartments because most isp routers still use 2.4
You could get something like a Ubiquiti Unifi Access Point. It should give you much better range and then your router. I use this in my apartment and get close to my wired 100mbps speed on wifi using 5ghz.
I've attached a Picture.
It's a TP-Link TL-WR802N Powered by a Anker PowerCore 16000. Draws about 0.17A/170mA. It's setup as an Access Point but nothing ever connects to it.
On the Phone/Receiving side I run Wifi Analyzer by farproc.
In Signal Meter mode you want to prefind your access point, as long as you don't change it when it is out of range, it'll stay and as it comes into range, it'll start beeping and showing it's signal level.
My Setup: http://www.nightengineer.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/IMG_20170516_015343-768x576.jpg
EDIT: Sorry for the long long wait for a reply.
I hate routers that come from any ISP. They all suck for wireless and I get something beefy to do the work in my home.
That said, see if you can change the channel that's being broadcasted. If you're on android, there's a handy app you can get so you can see how congested the signals are.
Last, I find that if you separate the names of your 2.4 and 5.0 channels it's easier to see if one is buggering up.
Särskilt 2.4GHz-nätet är ofta överfullt och näten stör varandra. En hel del andra trådlösa prylar ligger ofta i närheten frekvensmässigt och kan även de störa.
Som /u/sdrmlm skrev så är de optimalaste kanalerna att använda 1, 6 samt 11 pga hur den trådlösa tekniken fungerar då kanalerna även överlappar varandra. Just de tre har inga överlappningar, men då bör man kontrollera hur det verkar med alla grannar om man bor i flerbostadshus.
Wifi Analyzer till android är imo en bra app att kolla hur det ser ut med trådlösa nät och välja den kanal som ser ut att erbjuda minst störning i form av andra nätverk som ligger nära, eller om kanalen är knökfull av andra nät.
5GHz-nätet är oftast bättre, men det är inte alla enheter som har stöd för det.
Men just i flerbostadshus så kan trådlösa nätverk vara ett rent helvete.
I'd say faraday cage your room but you're probably using wi-fi on the PS4.
You could try changing the channel your router is connecting to. Bluetooth also uses 2.4ghz so change your wi-fi to something less crowded. This app will show you what channels are running in the area so you can remove your router from that.
This article may help too
Download wi-fi analyser or something like it. Check how messy your area is for wifi signals. Idealy for 2.4ghz, you want /everyone/ in your area using channels 1, 6 and 11 and nothing else (Using any other channel introduces interference). Likely though, people will be all over the place; so try and find the least congested channel and tell your modem to use that one manually in its settings.
I recommend this if you have android. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Do you have an android phone or tablet? if so download this:
Check for other signals that are overlapping with yours, find a clear channel and change your router to use this for wireless, this will fix a lot of interference based issues.
What model is your router? it may just be a little old at this stage and a new one may be what is required
Download to figure out where the signal is strongest.
You may be able to get your own "router" there and sending the signal to computers via Ethernet.
Besides changing the frequency using page 24 of the manual, you could also change the channel that your wireless router operates on to potentially avoid whatever channel the Sound Bar is using.
First, use something like wifi analyzer for android to find out what channels (you basically only have 1, 6, and 11 on 2.4Ghz) are too crowded.
Then, move your router's wireless (or WAP or whatever serves up wireless in your dwelling) to the least-congested channel where the router sits.
If this still does not alleviate the issue, you will either need to return the sound bar for something that doesn't rely on the 2.4Ghz band....or go get a router that can do 5Ghz (though this is really just a workaround).
Either way though, at least with Wifi Analyzer you will be able to see what the spectrum looks like in your house.
Sound Bar manual
Wifi Analyzer (android)
For iOS - Similar to Wifi Analyzer (iPhones)
Or just get an app for your phone that maps channel and signal strength and walk around with that. Much more accurate, and you can find a less crowded channel to set up your system with.
Move your router out of the box, that's whats next.
I'm half joking based on my assumed density of the stuff in the cubbies to the left and right of the router. Wifi Analyzer has helped me in get the best coverage in two houses now.
I had meant to experiment with moving my router to what seemed to be a better location and waited 3 years to finally do it. Big mistake! In the new location I now have solid 5Ghz coverage throughout the house instead of hit or miss coverage at the periphery.
Has anybody knocked that vase off the right speaker while trying to turn on/off the lights? ;) Good call on those bottle caps by the way.
On topic part of the post - Do you wish you had room corners to load the bass?
The download speed just shows you how many bits got through successfully per second. There could have been some bits that didn't make it through and were resent. That's ok for downloading a file or streaming a movie, but not so good for low latency data. Each resend adds latency since the data has to be determined to have been lost and then resent, effectively more than doubling the time to send that piece of data.
Since there's only two or three other networks nearby you might be able to find an open channel. If you have an Android device, Wifi Analyzer is a good app for determining what Wifi is around you. See what channels your neighbors are using and try to have your network on a channel that doesn't overlap.
For starters, look for other wifi signals on the same channel(s). I like the farproc Wifi Analyzer, though there are many other similar apps.
Take a look at variance in signal strength around your house. Does is correspond to poor cell data rates?
Kitchens have a lot of things like refrigerators and microwave ovens. Try to move away from those.
How is your connection when outside? Network Cell Info can help find towers.
5 people isn't too bad, there are 14 channels. It's common for routers to switch channels to the least busy automatically nowadays and with 5 people it probably finds some decent space.
Wifi Analyzer is the app I use at work to verify I've set up buildings correctly.
try something like this and see if you notice any trends in your wifi signals, might give you some ideas of what is happening.
Depends what channels you are using and a billion other factors, as usual.
I'm in New Zealand so I'm basing this on the permitted channels here, it does differ significantly between countries (this table on Wikipedia) covers it, but it's a heck of a thing to understand.
In short though, there are several sub-bands that make up "5GHz".
Within each band these may be further subject to transmit power limits, indoor or outdoor limits (some may be indoor only), bandwidth limits (ie, whether you can use 20, 40 or 80MHz wide channels), and DFS ("Radar avoidance"), the so called "Regulatory information".
DFS means the access point is required to change channels if it detects interference, which can be less ideal for performance. Wider channels are faster but more subject to performance, and generally reduce range.
A lot of devices have trouble with the middle 5.3 band, so it's best avoided completely if you don't have all modern devices. The 5.2 and 5.8 are generally good for most things.
As an example, here's the NZ regulatory information from my laptop (this on Linux, so it's easy to see the results)
$ iw reg get
country NZ: DFS-UNSET
(2402 - 2482 @ 40), (6, 22), (N/A), AUTO-BW, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-80MHZ, NO-160MHZ
(5170 - 5250 @ 80), (6, 22), (N/A), NO-OUTDOOR, AUTO-BW, IR-CONCURRENT, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-160MHZ, PASSIVE-SCAN
(5250 - 5330 @ 80), (6, 22), (0 ms), DFS, AUTO-BW, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-160MHZ, PASSIVE-SCAN
(5490 - 5730 @ 80), (6, 22), (0 ms), DFS, AUTO-BW, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-160MHZ, PASSIVE-SCAN
(5735 - 5815 @ 80), (6, 22), (N/A), AUTO-BW, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-160MHZ
(5815 - 5835 @ 20), (6, 22), (N/A), AUTO-BW, IR-CONCURRENT, NO-HT40MINUS, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-80MHZ, NO-160MHZ, PASSIVE-SCAN
So for 2.4GHz I can use 40MHz wide channels 1-13 (2402-2482). For 5GHz the important ones are I can use 36-48 (5170-5250) indoor only with 20/40/80MHz, 52-64 (5250-5330) indoor or outdoor with DFS, and 149-161 (5735 - 5815) largely unrestricted, with 22dBm (150mW) transmit power across the board. Some countries will limit that (I've seen restrictions on use of 80MHz channels, 20dBm limit, and others).
Interference comes in various forms. 2.4GHz is just a hotbed of wideband video transmitters, microwave ovens and other devices which generally ruin the experience. 5GHz you might have cordless phones and other things to deal with but with the overall lower range once walls and other things are concerned it's less likely to be a problem.
If you have to share channels with your neighbours, being on the same channel is strangely better than overlapping, hence the "1-6-11" rule for 2.4GHz for most countries (12 and 13 aren't supported in the USA, so a lot of equipment doesn't support them at all). 5GHz as you say there's plenty of bandwidth (enough for two 80MHz channels at 5.2 and one at 5.8) and unlike 2.4GHz the channels don't overlap so there are more to go around.
If I had to give general advice without knowing your environment, a 40MHz 5.2GHz channel without DFS is probably the best for speed/range/compatibility, followed by 40/5.8, then 80MHz (faster, but less range). I'm exceptionally lucky where I live that the neighbours are fairly silent and I can occupy as much airtime as I like.
If you're an Android user, feel free to post screenshots from something like WiFi Analyzer.
found it thanks!
> the ones on WiFi have a time of 30ms-4000ms and frequent timeouts.
Your wifi is clearly the problem, then, because that's ridiculously terrible. Have you ever tried adjusting your wifi channel settings?
Check if whatever wifi access point you're using has an RF environment analysis tool, or just use something like WiFi Anaylzer to see how busy the wifi environment is where you are. It sounds like you're using a channel that's already heavily utilized by your friends and neighbors. Here's how to fix it.
If the AP is reasonably close (i.e., a room or two) to your second desktop and your laptop, you may have better luck just killing 2.4Ghz and using only 5GHz channels. Range and penetration is far less at 5GHz, so neighbors' 5GHz wifi won't affect you nearly as much. (The downside is that 5GHz wifi might not be enough to spread through your whole home/apartment from just a single AP, because it gets attenuated by interior walls a lot more than does 2.4GHz.)
Note that if you're in a really crowded & saturated area, you may just be fucked. At that point, you'll either have to go all powerline ethernet or just get a 30 meter network cable and drag it around with you.
Check the data usage policy with your hotel, they might only allocate you a capped amount of data. Also, ask about their data speed. This is tricky because most speed tests only test a local server and you might be wanting to connect to a faraway server. If you are there, I have heard that fast.com uses the same paths as Netflix so you will get a good indicator of quality.
You can always ask the staff bluntly about running Netflix over their wifi.
Also keep in mind that if you are going to a different country you might get blocked by Netflix or if Netflix is available in that country, you might get that country's collection. This is because many of the content owners have existing deals/licenses in different countries, or Netflix is not big enough in that country to outbid a local cable/satellite provider. A workaround is using a VPN service like Tunnelbear, however, it might be illegal in that country.
Another thing is the quality of the hotel's wifi infrastructure, Wifi is quite capable for almost ten years now to run 4k Netflix theoretically (150Mbps+), however, the number of people connected to a single point is what determines the quality of your slice. The more people, the slower and worse it gets. Also, how many things are in the way of the signal.
There are very good mobile apps out there that can measure Wifi strength. I use these two (Android):
Figured I revisit this since I read something the other day that may help you.
The controller works on the 2.4ghz wireless spectrum as do most wireless devices in your house, but most aren't strong enough to interfere with it besides the most powerful one, your router.
You can log into your routers interface and change the channel the router operates on to something 5 channnels higher, or lower depending on what its set at.
Alternatively you can find a Wifi channel scanner app for your smart phone that will tell you what channels are the most crowded and help you pick the best one for your router.
> Use a wifi heatmapper to find the free-est possible band,
If you have something android available, I recommend this wifi scanner: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
It will show you essentially a spectrum analyser type display so you can identify the least interfered with channel to use.
Baixa o Wifi Analyzer
If possible, try using a wifi analayzer tool like this guy and move your router to a less congested frequency.
That's likely not the whole problem, but it could potentially help
Try the android app WiFi Analyzer. This will show you where the most noise is, and what channels are the most heavily populated. Using that info you can pick a good spot for your router as well as change which channels you use. Some ISP-provided or especially bullshit routers might not have that functionality though.
If you have an Android phone you could see if there is a Wi-Fi dead spot or if switching channels on your router could help. I really love this app.
Do a site survey around your home to see which wireless channels are the least crowded. Crowded wireless channels will definitely slow you down. If you have an Android phone, you can use WifiAnalyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Or if you have a Mac, open up Wireless Diagnostics > Window > Scan.
Here's a good article about wi-fi problems in general. TL;DR: All wifi access point on a channel take turns, so if you're in a crowded area, everybody's wifi slows down.
Well there is no official Windows 10 support for your wireless adapter - http://www.tp-link.com/us/download/TL-WDN4800.html#Utility
Might be worthwhile to invest in a new wireless adapter. Especially if you can get wireless signal in that location (and even further) reliably on another device (use your phone since you probably don't have high tech equipment).
esta fue la que use yo.
tene en cuenta que es solo para ver en que canales están las redes que están cerca tuyo, para cambiar tu red tenes que entrar a la config del router
Sounds like something's up to be sure!
The biggest concern here is the wired speed.
It probably won't hurt to hard reset the router. Unscrew the coax connection from the back (and/or the Ethernet cable from the white/beige uplink port) and press and hold the reset button in with a pen for 30 seconds and let go.
Test again. If its still too slow, bypass the router if you're connected to the ONT via ethernet (that beige port from earlier) if not you'll want to call in and probably do a manual ONT reboot.
You can do this yourself by removing the power from the ONT, removing the battery, letting it sit for a minute, plugging it back into power, and then finally the battery.
If that still doesn't work of course a technican probably needs to come out. Make sure to schedule for a time that works for you. It may take a day or two extra but you'll be home. Be sure to give them your cellphone number and email address so that you can be reached more easily.
For wifi you really should choose channel 1, 6, or 11.
You can download a free app on android called wifi analyser:
Pick the least crowded channel and you're good.
If that still doesn't work, the google onhub is awesome.
You can find them cheaper online, but if you get it from Frontier, in addition to the 2 year factory warranty, you can split the cost over 3 months and you get lifetime support.
If you have an andoid the app called "Wifi Analyzer" will work..
for windows there is "WifiInfoView" for a quick free no frillz option
A few things:
Are you sure it's the wifi? I've had similar issues which were the result of the modem (solution: buy new modem), the wiring in the building, or the ISP. To check, have a wired PC handy while gaming. Load up a streaming video (or simply run ping -t google.com at a command prompt). When you notice the lag in the game, does the wired PC also lose connectivity? If the wired PC struggles, it's not your wifi.
Are you using an all-in-one wifi/router/modem? If so, it's possible an issue with the router or modem is causing the wifi to drop out. Buy or borrow a standalone access point and set up a separate network. If the problems go away, you have your answer.
Have you checked for interference? Saturation of the 2.4GHz is a major problem if you live in a particularly dense area. Get a wifi scanner app for your phone (I use this one but there are plenty to choose from) or inSSIDer for PC/Mac. Are there any networks overlapping yours? If so, can you change wifi channels? (Important: for 2.4GHz wifi you should only ever use channels 1, 6 or 11. It's better to have multiple networks overlapping on the same channel than to have them on adjacent channels!) Can you switch to a 5GHz channel (your older devices may not support it, and range tends to be weaker on 5GHz than on 2.4GHz). If there are many networks and they are all overlapping everywhere, you might be stuck. Unless you want to go door to door and ask your neighbors to move their wifi to a different channel :)
If you have an Android device.
Might be caused by jitter,
There are several ways this can be caused.
you can reduce it somewhat by making sure you wifi adapter isn't scanning for more networks when you're connected. You can do this by checking the advanced properties op the wifi adapter. If your wifi adapter doesn't show this option, you can try using this wlan optimizer tool
Also make sure you're using a free channel for your wifi, you can easily check with your phone using an app like wifi analyzer to check what channel has the best reception near your pc and setting your wifi router manually to use that channel.
If that all fails, you can always fall back on plain old ethernet, still the most reliable option.
If the stick connects again after restart, I think it's a router issue.
If you have an Android use this and walk around your place to discover open channels:
I use ch. 1 & 40 but it all depends on your area
Ah, so it is. This should be a direct link.
> # Cuatro soluciones para mejorar la conexión Wi-Fi de tu casa
> Pasan los años y la señal de la Wi-Fi sigue flaqueando en tu hogar. No llega a determinadas habitaciones o el ancho de banda no se relaciona con lo contratado. No te alarmes antes de tiempo, la distribución de tu casa, el grosor de las paredes, la saturación de dispositivos o dónde elijas poner el router pueden ser algunas de las causas.
> A continuación te dejamos cuatro consejos sencillos para mejorar la recepción de la señal Wi-Fi en tu hogar. Eso sí, antes de poner manos a la obra probá apagar varios de los dispositivos conectados. Si la conexión mejora, ya sabes cuál es el causante.
> Mirá también## Aseguran que Marissa Mayer dejará Yahoo y recibirá una indemnización millonaria Cambiar el router de lugar
> Aunque no lo creas, una pequeña modificación en la posición del router pueden traducirse en ganancias de señal extraordinarias. Las redes electromagnéticas funcionan mejor cuántos menos obstáculos físicos haya entre emisor y receptor. Si podés hacer que entre el router y tu smartphone o computadora haya dos paredes en vez de tres, mejor.
> Para probar la eficiencia, puedes instalar aplicaciones que miden la intensidad de tu red Wi-Fi en tu smartphone. Aquí una para Android y otra para iPhone. Todo es cuestión de ensayo y error. Mové el router y acto seguido comprobá la señal recibida en el punto de la casa donde solía fallar la conexión.
> Mirá también## Viajar a Miami y traer un iPhone es más barato que comprarlo en Argentina Cambiar protocolos y canales
> Las redes Wi-Fi emiten en diferentes protocolos de ancho de banda, de preferencia de datos, y varias frecuencias. Si vivís en un edificio es común que haya decenas de redes simultáneas. Los aparatos modernos (routers y computadoras) vienen equipados con componentes que saben discriminar mejor unos de otros.
> Cambiar el canal de tu router en realidad no hace mucho, es un cambio mínimo en la frecuencia de la señal. Si soporta conexiones a 5 Ghz, prueba a activar esta señal. Es posible que mejore la recepción en una casa pequeña, pero señales al tener una frecuencia más corta que 2.4 Ghz, atravesará peor las paredes. Muchos router soportan emitir ambas señales a la vez, probá cuál se adapta mejor a tu hogar.
> Colocar repetidores de señal
> Si tu casa tiene una arquitectura complicada llena de armarios empotrados, paredes gruesas, muchas esquinas o no podés cambiar el router de posición, tu mejor opción puede pasar por crear un repetidor de señal.
> Son pequeños —y baratos— aparatos que hacen lo que su nombre indica: una antena que captura la emisión de tu router, le añade potencia y la replica con otra antena desde donde lo enchufes, recortando la distancia. No son complicados de instalar si seguís las instrucciones.
> También existen lo denominados repetidores PLC. La única diferencia es que en vez de repetir la señal desde el router lo hacen entre dos aparatos independientes que se comunican a través de la instalación eléctrica de la casa. Puedes poner uno “base” enchufado a la pared donde tu router, y el resto enchufados en otras habitaciones.
> Routers inalámbricos, una solución más. (Foto: Simon Chavez/dpa)
> Comprar un router más potente
> Los router que nos entregan las operadoras de Internet son, de media, regulares a nivel técnico. Por poco dinero podés comprar uno extra con multitud de antenas y mejoras tecnológicas con el que llenar de señal de Wi-Fi más potente tu hogar.
> El funcionamiento es sencillo. Apagas la señal Wi-Fi del router de tu proveedor y lo conectas al nuevo y potente por cable Ethernet, el que parece un cable de teléfono con la ficha más grande. Entonces, tu nuevo router recibirá la señal directamente por el cable sin pérdidas y creará una red Wi-Fi mucho más estable.
> Los router modernos pueden servir múltiples conexiones a varios dispositivos a la vez, solucionando la saturación. Además tienen más ancho de banda, conectan más rápido, y saben discernir bien entre tus aparatos y los del vecino, por ejemplo. Por último, incorporan mejoras de seguridad más modernas y te permitirán acceder a Internet con mayor tranquilidad.
> No hace falta que la conexión de tu casa vaya mal para pensar en adquirir un nuevo router que haga de intermediario, también pueden mejorar las conexiones en hogares donde la señal solo recaiga en ocasiones.
> (Fuente: La Vanguardia)
empleadoEstatalBot, por la vuelta de Perón en forma de fichas.
[Autor](/u/subtepass) | Código fuente
Signal interference impacts a WiFi signal in ways a hardline doesn't worry about ever. Walls, people, anything in between a router and the device can impact the quality of the signal, which can lead to lower speeds and dropped packets in extreme cases. You can minimize this (but not eliminate) by removing obstacles and distance between the router and the device you want the best signal in.
Other routers and signals in the area can affect yours negatively if they run on or near the same channel (this is why a microwave can fuck up a 2.4GHz router if it's nearby). Download a WiFi Analyzer app on your phone and sit near your router and do a scan for all networks, then find channels that are unused/underused and set your WiFi to use that particular channel. Less overlap means less clutter, which means a better quality signal.
Lastly, set your expectations. WiFi is never better than a hardline Eithernet cable. I had a desktop who's motherboard went slowly and lost my ethernet ports. I relocated my router beside my damned computer and I still had a worse connection than ethernet.
EDIT: Derp, I misread. The info above is for if you're using WiFi instead of Ethernet. A USB 4G dongle is a completely different ball game.
Antes que nada, te fijaste si no estás en el mismo canal que tus vecinos?
Bajate el Wifi Analyzer en android y fijate si tu señal no está tapada las otras.
En caso afirmativo habría que cambiar de canal desde la configuración del modem-wifi.
That's wireless interference. You're either on an overcrowded wireless channel (check your router settings, or use this app) or have a bad position for your router (near anything high-voltage or signal-reflective, in a metal cabinet, etc) causing those massive spikes in ping/crazy packet loss.
What kind of connection are you getting on the hosted network? May want to check with an android app like wifi analyzer.
Just make sure it's actually 5ghz that your connected to and it's on an uncontested channel.
EDIT - Another good idea to make sure is to check on the phone to see if the packets are lost during network transmission, or at the encoder/decoder.
I live in an apartment building that's really saturated with wifi connections.
Every few months i run wifi analyzer:
to get a look at what channels have the least amount of crosstalk and I set my router accordingly.
If you have an android, you can use wifi analyzer, which will give you a rough estimate on how strong the signal is. You can use that to get some hints as to where you need to look.
As for more exact, directional info... you'd need expensive equipment for that, but if you have a decent budget then yeah, that's totally possible.
Install this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en and look at what other networks are using your wifi channel. Even the wifi direct networks (they say Direct-android-xx or similar) will cause interference. My amazon fire stick was creating a network on the same 5ghz channel that it was connected to my router on. Cause shitty lag. Dumped the fire stick on 2.4 ghz and the wifi direct channel followed it. Now My 5ghz network is clean and fast.
Hi! Welcome to /r/AndroidHelp.
We are sorry you're going through this, but I'm hoping we can shed some light into your questions!
I would call this a legal gray area. Wifi hotspots aren't illegal. It's the user's choice to connect to it. Hate speech however is a crime, if a Wifi's name has hateful speech it can be a crime.
Bluetooth pushing is where it gets tricky. Pushing files to phones that can be found through bluetooth isn't illegal per se AFAIK. /r/legalhelp would probably know better. You must tell your users to make sure their devices aren't visible when bluetooth is on. That's how this device pushes files. And even still, one would have to pair / agree to said files before a push is complete.
This channel does not go both ways. Just upload stuff to your phones. However, what they upload might exploit your phones... So be careful with the files you download from these people. I'd say the worst case scenario is someone accepts these files, runs them, and their devices get hacked. But that comes down to user interaction.
The specs page doesn't specify the hardware underneath, but, depending on where this device is, here's how far a bluetooth signal can go (See figure 1) and here's how far a Wifi signal can go. Depending on this device's positioning, residences MAY be in risk.
As stated above, making your phones NOT visible via bluetooth is enough to ignore this device. Wi-Fi attacks only work if you try and connect to its Access point.
There are ways to Jam their device, but AFAIK those are illegal in some countries like Canada, your state might have different laws.
AFAIK because this device is being used for harassment, talking to the police would be a definite good start. You can use apps like Wifi Analyzer to find the device, that would definitely be a good start. But definitely get the police involved, harassment is taken seriously in the states.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions!
Thank you very much much for that post, it helped me a lot to set this up in my home. I use 2 TL-WR841ND V11 with custom firmware. I have tested this setup using this app:
It shows me both of my APs SSID,MAC, channel,etc and information about encryption (WAP-PSK+FT/PSK-CCMP-preauth)[ESS] (all my phones did not show +FT anywhere). I have set refresh time to 1s and moved between floors, roam is very fast, as soon my crappy phone wifi sens stronger signal of upstairs AP, it switches to it without any interference (tested SSH and skype call). Here is my full config, I have added few option to speed up switching for dumber devices:
option device 'radio0'
option mode 'ap'
option ssid 'My wifi'
option key 'check_out_AVE_new_video_:)'
option network 'lan'
option encryption 'psk2+ccmp'
option rsn_preauth "1"
option ieee80211r "1"
option mobility_domain "e612"
option pmk_r1_push "1"
option nasid "98DED0AA2282"
option r1_key_holder "98DED0AA2282"
# Skip max_inactivity if needed
option skip_inactivity_poll '1'
# Max inactivity time of client, if it dose not respond it's disconnected (default it 300)
option max_inactivity '10'
list r0kh "98:DE:D0:AA:22:82,98DED0AA2282,8a7fcc966ed0691ff2809e1f38c16996"
list r0kh "98:DE:D0:AA:22:BE,98DED0AA22BE,8a7fcc966ed0691ff2809e1f38c16996"
list r1kh "98:DE:D0:AA:22:82,98:DE:D0:AA:22:82,8a7fcc966ed0691ff2809e1f38c16996"
list r1kh "98:DE:D0:AA:22:BE,98:DE:D0:AA:22:BE,8a7fcc966ed0691ff2809e1f38c16996"
Does your router support 5GHz? If not, and if you have neighbors, then the 2.4GHz frequency in your area is probably pretty congested which would cause such issues. You can test this with a free wifi-analyzer app (windows, android).
It's possible that all the tech does when he comes out is changes the channel on your router to a less-congested one. But over time, other peoples' routers will also switch channel (especially when they're set to the evil 'auto channel' option) and the congestion will return.
Just a theory, but go see if your devices are connecting via 2.4GHz and if so, how congested your router's channel is.
Do you have a phone that you can download and install Wifi Analyzer on?
If so grab it and use it to see if that machine is in a position that may be out of range to pick up the Wifi that you want to connect to.
Maybe use this application in your phone.
Or equivalent apps in your phone (if it's iOS). Scan near your computer so you can see what cause the interference. Find a non-crowded channel, and set your wifi channel to that channel.
I use this one on Android. It's pretty good for down and dirty. There are others when you need to really dig.
On a related note, Wifi Analyzer is an app for Android mobile devices that will let you quickly see what channels are being used near you and their signal strengths.
Ahh, my mistake. I thought I saw "I plan on getting a couple more". In terms of the default CenturyLink modem/router combo it doesn't handle a lot of device very well. This at least was my experience when I have CenturyLink about three years ago. The channel could be the issue. Channel 5 is overlapped by other channels.
You can try downloading an app that scans the Wi-Fi usage around you and tells you the best option. On Android I use the one linked below. This particular app with have a rating for each channel.
Is there anyway you can login to your access point and try changing the channel? Sometimes WiFi issues can be caused by interference from other access points. You can use this to look at the WiFi spectrum of your area and find the least occupied channel.
Also, I suggest you try a custom ROM like CyanogenMod. Would you like to try it out? And if you do, do you have any warranty (you would like to keep) and what is the model number on the sticker behind the battery?
Try a different WiFi channel. I like this app
Yes that is ideal.
The drops may be from interference.
Use this android app to see if the channel your router is using too crowded, normally the router chooses a less crowded one but itdoesn't work always.
Changing channels is very easy and it should be in the settings right below where you set the WiFi name.
A decent Wi-Fi connection will feel no different from wired, but it's very possible that you have interference. There are phone apps you can use to see how many networks are on a given channel, generally you want as few as possible. Also, make sure you're connecting to the 5ghz network if you have one.
I don't think that the antenna orientation makes much difference, but I leave them straigh up, it's more important that you don't block the router, don't put big objects in front of it, specially if they are made of metal.
If you have an Android smartphone there's an app that shows the signal strength in decibels, is very useful to find dead spots in the house, it also helps finding out what are the best channels. Just fire up the app and walk around the house.
^This. Also, you may have channel interference on your WiFi. I've seen this caused by other routers (neighbours etc), garage door remotes and notably, 5 years a go, a wireless doorbell my parents had where my mother just unplugged the receiver because it was going off all the time. WiFi was terrible for three weeks before we realised that the cause was the button sending a constant signal.
You can use this app to check the channel interference.
You certain you aren't on a busy channel? If you have an android device check out WiFi Analyzer.
I had a similar issue when I moved a year ago, I used an app like this to pick the least congested wifi channel and it improved.
Check what channel your wifi is broadcasting on. If you live in close quarters with your neighbors there may be congestion on the channel.
You can also check with https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
(Not sure if it's available from Apple app store)
Okay, in that case the Toshiba doesn't have a 5GHz radio. You could try switching to a 2.4 GHz channel that's not as crowded and see how that works (if you have Android you can use Wifi Analyzer to see which channels are crowded) or you can get an 802.11 AC dongle for it.
In dense urban areas, you definitely want to avoid 2.4 GHz. Even in some suburban areas speed can be affected by interference, as there's realistically only 3 channels to use on the 802.11 2.4 GHz band. If possible, you should use Ethernet to connect your devices, else, you should use 5 GHz.
No, your speed is not split. Either band can run at full speed if both are enabled but the other is not used. However, this is practically not possible on your 2.4 GHz band due to interference.
It depends on the device's wireless chip. I have a laptop from 2007 that connects to 5 GHz, but I also have newer devices that can't. You can purchase a USB 5 GHz WiFi adapter if you want, but I recommend trying to use Ethernet if possible.
Pro tip: Got an Android phone? The WiFi Analyzer app is great for checking for wireless interference.
Another pro tip: Use https://speedof.me for speed tests.
On my limited knowledge and experiments (and others should correct me if I make a false statement):
you can see what channels are crowded or not crowded in your area with it. im guessing this is the app /u/FragmentedChicken means https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
the app wont touch your router configuration. i assume thats what you need your laptop for?
Typically http://192.168.0.1 or http://192.168.1.1
You'll probably need to google your router's default admin username and password.
From there it varies depending on your router. If using 802.11g you will want to use either channel 1, 6, or 11 (to reduce channel over lap). You can use an app on your phone like Wifi Analyzer to see how many devices are using each of the channels. You want to use whichever channel has the least congestion.
You only need to make this change on your router; all your devices that connect to the router will recognize the change and deal with it on their own without any additional changes.
If your WiFi is slow with neighbors moving in, you may be using the same channel as them.
In the US, 2.4GHz WiFi uses channels 1-12. The most common default channel (that I've seen) across router devices is 6. You can download a WiFi spectrum analyzer (like this one for Android) and see where yours stands relative to your neighbors. Pick a channel that no one else around you is using. 5GHz has a lot more channels (as it operates using spread/broad spectrum, and I don't have those memorized). The app I linked will show you those as well.
Not knowing your technical prowess, to change the channel, you'll have to log into the built-in web page of your WiFi router. Depending on the manufacturer, they'll have different default admin accounts (although "admin" with the password "admin" is pretty common--which you'll want to change for security). Somewhere on one of the pages, you'll find your WiFi settings, and you can choose what channel it uses. Don't mess with the Tx/Rx strengths or the other settings. If your router supports it, some have a check box for "auto" channel. This will let the router scan the airwaves around you, and pick the least noisy channel automatically.
Stupid technical tip: I prefer to use lower channels because they will permeate physical barriers just slightly better than higher frequencies. In the real world, this probably doesn't make a noticeable difference, but I can hope.
>wireless channels and extender channels for my router for 2.4 and 5.0 versions
Different. Download an app like Wifi Analyzer on your phone (Should be a similar option for iPhones, Network Analyzer lite maybe?) and use the Wireless Channels graph (Shown in the screenshots on that Google Play page). There should be 1-14, and generally the lower numbered channels are pretty saturated. Your router MIGHT not be able to select a specific channel, but most can.
Throughout all this, have you changed your WiFi passwords at all? Might be worth a shot. Even if you don't think someone else is using your connection, it's always possible they got your password one way or another. The fact that most of your "fixes" work for a few hours then suddenly stop kind of indicates that there's something else on the network that's maybe not "kicking back on" right away, but once it does, it brings the ping up with it.
Might also be worth talking to your folks and seeing if tackling the wired option together is possible. Ethernet ports are things buyers of houses are looking out for nowadays, so most homeowners shouldn't be too unhappy about installing a few. Running cables through walls is actually a lot easier than you'd expect, too.
Download a wifi analyzer app on your phone and check the signal around your place. Could be neighbouring signals interfering and may only necessitate a channel change on your router. Check both the 2.4 and 5Ghz bands.
/u/washu_k might have the right idea. Get a good idea of what is in those walls.
Then again there are two other things I am not seeing addressed.
1) Frequency: Are you connecting at 2.4Ghz or 5 Ghz? (on most APs you can name the SSIDs on each set of frequencies). 5Ghz has a really good speed, and is the frequency used for 802.11AC. Unfortunately it has terrible ~~distance~~ wall penetration, so pretty much your living room would get the signal, maybe your kitchen.
However your router is a dual band router and should offer somewhere around 120-150Mbs in 802.11N. That should still be pretty strong in that kitchen, unless the walls are made of lead.
2) Signal Strength settings in the router. Linksys doesn't always push the highest signal strength (and honestly you don't always need it). But if the setting is there you could tweak it to be a little higher/louder.
If you have android, you can get WifiAnalyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en) . The signal strength page would give you a good indication about how strong the signal is. In the upper ~~right~~ Left corner of the signal strength page is a box with what range of frequencies it is looking at currently. Tap the box to check the other range (assuming your phone supports it).
Let me know how you fare.
Edit: I said distance was a factor on 5ghz which is not entirely accurate. The issue is that it is terrible at penetrating walls. If that wall is just wood and sheet rock he should be ok, but if there is metal, it could be an issue. In my setting a cinderblock wall is enough to kill 90% of the signal strength.
Out of curiosity, is the linux device able to browse the internet when the other devices drop the connection?
When you say it drops the connection, does it become a limited connection (yellow triangle over wifi bars in bottom right of taskbar) or disconnects altogether?
Are you able to see the network during this time in the list of available networks? You can always use Wifi Analyzer app on your android device to check wifi signal/strength/etc also.
I thought of a similar application to this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Well, we're talking about a very small device with a very small antenna placed at a very awkward position between a TV/monitor and a wall. If the router is placed far away you have the perfect conditions for poor wifi reception.
Still, I already used the CC in a worst case scenario with dozens of nearby wifi networks, very far from my Asus RT-AC68U and it worked fine.
If you have an android try the app wifi analyser and move the 2.4ghz channel to the least used one (for best results always use 1, 6 or 11 even if the others have less networks...)
If your house is flat (only one floor) keep the antennas of the router completely vertical. If possible make some space between the router and the nearest wall.
Doing these steps will maximize your wifi coverage but it might not be enough. You mentioned it worked better with the previous router and that might be true due to antena configuration being better suited for that particular position.
I like this app:
Get an app from the Google Play store for your android phone or tablet called "Wifi Analyzer" and it will show which wifi channels are in use or empty. It's amazing how crowded the channels can be in some areas.
Well chances are the Refurbished router will have some kind of limited guarantee. As long as you get a generation 3 router you should be fine. It's probably going to be a "red band" Actiontech MI424WR rev I. http://www.actiontec.com/41.html It's actually rated up to 100 I believe. The only reason to go for the generation 4, beyond wifi, is if you are on 150/150. In all honestly, 802.11N shouldn't have a problem delivering around 75/75 over wifi but you need to be on a channel that is free of interference from your neighbors. Only channels 1,6, and 11 are free from interfering with each other but some idiots use channel 2, 3, 8, etc which makes it easier.
If you have an Android device, use this app to do a site survey to pick the right channel for you:
If you have android you could try this tool
Have you many houses around you? It may be useful to use something like Wifi Analyser to give you an idea if any other wifis are sitting on the same space.
Something like this installed on your phone can help:
If you have an Android phone you can use "Wifi Analyzer" to help you choose the best channel for your router. It's a free app. You can get it at:
If you don't have an Android phone then there are a few other ways although they're slightly more complicated.
> Do you know if there is a way to disable wifi calling without disabling all wifi?
Open Phone app, Settings, Calls, Wifi Calling, turn it off.
I'd suggest downloading Wifi Analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
And see how many other signals you see, maybe try changing your wifi channel to the least used one. If you do have a lot of interference a new AP may help as the 5 GHz band is way less crowded.
As to roaming, Fi only roams onto VZW and AT&T in areas where they have agreements to roam, you don't get the same roaming coverage that direct Sprint/T-mobile customers have. Not sure if support can tell you specific areas or not, could always ask.
As to the network selection, I believe it tries to learn over time what the best signal to use is, if you Clear Data for the Fi app it will get rid of the stored data, might be worth a shot (note you will have to run through Fi activation again when you clear the data).
Assuming that it is channel interference, try using an app like Wifi Analyzer on your phone to scan and advise the best channels to use - it might not be the ones that you have already tried.
I use this on Android;
I'm sure the Apple store has something similar if that's your thing.
2.4 GHz interference affects connections no matter how close you are to the router. Using Bluetooth at the same time can make the interference worse. Installing WiFi Analyzer and using it to help move your network to an unpopulated channel (1, 6, or 11) may help. Your best option is to get a dual-band router and connect on the 5 GHz network.
Here are some that are free that seem good, I have only used the Windows 10 and Android one though. Can't vouch for the others.
Windows other than 10,
To expand on this, you can use a smart phone 'Wifi Analyzer' app to find out for sure what channel your speakers are using, and move your router to the farthest possible channel to prevent interference.
1st I'd connect directly to your modem and run some speedtest.net test at a number of different locations to see if the problem persists...
If they do I'd power cycle everything, leave them off for a couple minutes before powering back up, and test again... same result you'll want to contact your ISP and find out WTH is wrong as it is probably on their end.
Now if you connect to your modem directly and you don't have the same issues than you'll want to look into your wifi settings. If you live in a "congested area" you can download an app like wifi analyzer to see what channels your neighbors are using and switch to the least congest channel. The steps to do that vary depending on your router, but it should be pretty straight forward.
dude, it's probably just interference
first off, if you have an android phone, get Wifi Analyzer so that you can check your own router's signal strength around the house, as well channel availability. More routers set on a specific channel, more interference from each other. Set your router to a different channel.
All depends on how many people who have available to assist for the project, how many AP's there are, how the APs are mounted, if the APs are visible or not, is your cabling / wall ports / patch panels reliably labeled?
My recommendation is to go ahead and on paper name each AP at each location (so F1-H3-AP2 (ect); where F=Floor;H=Hall;AP=AccessPoint). Now when you identify the AP during the project you have a clear name and reference point (this is particularly helpful if you have others working with you).
Now, as for the technical side of recognizing each AP here's some tools at your disposal:
1) WiFi Analyzer (App on Smartphone), will tell you all SSID's it sees, the MAC address of the AP broadcasting the SSID, and the Channel # the AP is broadcasting the SSID on. WiFi Analyzer for Android.
2) Thru Cisco WLAN controller you have the ability to make the LED's on an individual AP blink/flash for a set amount of time more info on Cisco WLAN Controller.
First port of call should still be to plug an ethernet cable in and see if it still happens, have you tried changing the channels on the router? Maybe give something like this app a go and see if the current channel signal dips when SteamVR is active.
Are you talking about home service or cell service?
For Home Service:
If you're in an apartment building the problem is most likely that there are to many people on the same wi-fi channel. You can see this two ways, either with a computer that's wi-fi capable or with an android device.
For PC you'd want to download Xirrius Wi-Fi Inspector, although the website seems to be kind of fucky at the moment. Anyway, once it's up and running, you might have to run it twice, you'll be able to see all other wi-fi networks in your immediate vicinity. What you're looking for is anyone else that's on the same wi-fi channel as yourself and put yourself on one that's less occupied. To do that, you need to get into the router which you do by putting 192.168.1.254 into the address bar of you browser, enter the user name an password which should be on a sticker on the side of your router.
For android you want to download Wifi Analyzer and basically do the same thing as above.
However this may not remedy the issue if you're on DSL, including Uverse DSL if you're near CSUN. For whatever reason, the DSL near CSUN suffers from peak usage hours making it basically unusable during the hours that class is in session.
At the very least call AT&T and have them run a line test on your property, a squirrel may have chewed on your lines or a tree branch may have fallen damaging them.
There are other things you can try as well, like changing your DNS to Google's DNS in your router which is 188.8.131.52 and 184.108.40.206.
You may simply have a roommate that is really shitty at torrenting and is seeding shit loads of data which will cause a major slowdown.
For Cell Service:
Cell service is trickier to fix, you can sometimes force it to work by flicking airplane mode on and off or by ordering an AT&T MicroCell.
There's not really much you can do to fix shitty cell service unfortunately.
Usually there's a setting in your WiFi router. If you have an Android device use WiFi Analyzer to determine the clearest channel to switch to.
If you have access to an Android device, Wifi Analyzer is a handy app to see what networks are around and which channel they're on.
What type of connection is it, WPS, WPA, or WPA2? 802.11a/b/g/n/ac? Download the Wifi Analyzer app for Android to help you gather information about your network.
Step 1 to troubleshooting bad wifi is to test the area, and test speeds at different locations in your house.
You say you have 4 phones, so use one of them with Wifi Analyzer (or equivalent on iPhone if that's all you have). Make sure that your wifi is on a channel with minimal crowding. Then grab speedTest.net's app, and test around with that.
The questions you want to answer are:
That last one is hard to figure out, if you can't make the all in one work, see if you can borrow a router from a friend to test with. Or go to a computer shop, ask about their return policy and buy a router (return it if it doesn't help).
If the issue exists on only your wireless desktop, well I think you can guess what I'd suggest. The alternative is to get a better wireless card for your desktop or buy/make a directional antenna (which may or may not help).
Finally, you can consider a wireless extender, but they are only as good as the router they connect to, and in my experience complicate more than they help.
Get this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
And set your router to use a channel as far away from others as possible. If you're in an area with closely space houses (or worse, townhouses/apartments) there's probably a ton of traffic in the 2.4ghz band. Switching channels might help but only so much. 5Ghz would be the way to go.
Also, various flavors of wifi are generally only good for about half their rated speed. That is to say don't expect much more than 20s out of 802.11g.
Can't go wrong with: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
I have a similar problem so I've spent some time looking this up and I'm starting to see a trend in my research. Let me ask you this, do you have an old router? If yes then there's a good chance that this is the problem. From what I can see there is a good chance that the connection between your routers wifi and the chromecast is on the border of whats okay.
Personally I have installed this app and will check my wifi when I get home. My router is old and I have a feeling that this is whats causing my troubles.
Again, this is very anecdotal but like I said, after having read thread after thread on this subject the router thing is something that comes up again and again.
Best of luck.
There's a few phone apps which will do this. Think the one I have - I forget the name and my phone is way over there charging (first-world problems, right?) - is possibly called Wifi Scanner or something (Android).
EDIT: I got off my arse - it's actually called Wifi Analyzer.
do you have other wifi units operating ?
do you have the best wifi channel for your location [see wifi analyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en ]
umm cannot think of anythign else to ask
Try switching to another channel in your router's configuration. If too many people are using the same channel (your neighbors for example) then there will be too much interference. There's also an Android App for analyzing which channels are populated at the moment:
Is this all wireless internet, except for the old computer?
Try downloading wifi analyzer for your phone (I've linked to the google play store - if you have an iphone, that won't work)
Use that to get an idea about how "busy" the area is. If a lot of wifi signals overlap, they drown out each other, and that has a remarkable effect on speed.
You should also be able to see if there's some "free space" in the wireless ranges. Wireless signals run on channels, from one to 14, but if you can see a lot of wireless signals clustered around channel 1, then it could be a good idea to change your wireless transmitter, to use channel 5, for example.
Oh, and also, of course, change the password on the wireless access point.
Finally, turn off all computers in the house, see if the problem goes away. Turn them on, one by one, and see when the problem comes back. If there's one computer that's infected by a botnet, it'll send out tons and tons of data, hosing the connection, and making the internet useless for others.
Are you in a multi unit building? Download WiFi Analyzer, if you're on Android, and take a screenshot of the signals page. Likely just congestion.
Have you tried using some kind of a wifi analyzer to see if it's really emitting something?
For instance using an app for the phone called "wifi analyzer"
or installing inssider on the laptop?
See if you pick up anything with them
I use that feature on WiFi Analyzer to differentiate between separate APs on the same SSID. It works for single-point networks, too.
The ideal channel is the one least populated by other wireless networks. There's usually an option to change it in your router's settings page.
This one I use.
This. I like to use this to see what channels are congested.
Is there lots of wifi's around you? It could be conflicting channels from other wifi's. Change the channel yours is on to something that no one else is on. This bad boy is the goods for working out which channel and strength other wifi's and yours are on. Pick one that doesn't conflict as badly with the others around you.
Try Wifi Analyzer, a smartphone app which can check wifi signals. It's possible one of your neighbours has gotten a new router which interferes with your signal. If you wifi signal is slightly weaker in your room, or the interfering signal is stronger in your room, this might explain the issue. If there's another signal interfering with yours, check to see if your router/modem has a switch to use a different channel.
For what ever reason, my cellular signal for both carriers goes to crap when I'm sitting on my couch. Any calls made or received from there tend to use my wifi.
No real settings I could recommend for your router to force things to wifi, but I would recommend you make sure you have little interference on your selected wifi channels. You can see what your airspace looks like by using an app like Wifi Analyzer. You'll probably be able to avoid more interference by operating on a 5GHz channel. I run different SSIDs, one for 2.4GHz and another for 5GHz, and I have only set my phone to connect on the 5GHz SSID.
You might want to check your router itself, how far from it you are and maybe check the channel its on with an app like WiFi Analyzer. My phone never really drops from my WiFi, and it also reconnects instantly after unlocking my phone. Your WiFi is also supposed to turn off after locking your phone to save battery, as long as nothing is using it such as a download.
EDIT: Also with your WiFi not connecting instantly, check settings and look for an error message. Your router may have trouble assigning your device an IP, in that case maybe set up a static IP for your device.
Here is my list of must have Apps:
First step is to isolate the issue. Connect to the modem and test ethernet speeds. if Ethernet gives good speeds, the issue is with wifi. download [this](acrylicwifi.com/en/wlan-software/wlan-scanner-acrylic-wifi-free/) for windows or this for android and check the best channel (one as far away from other networks as possible). Default logins can be found here . Log in, go to wifi settings and change the control channel number. Also, see if there is a 5GHz network for your modem and if there is one, use that instead of the slow and interference prone 2.4GHz.
If the speeds on ethernet are low, then it's totally on TWC's end(unless you have an ancient PC).
WiFi Analyzer for your android.
Use a WiFi analyzer. There is an option to track one signal strength where you can walk around and find where the signal is the strongest. Here is one for Andriod (iOS won't allow them) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
Try turning your router completely off and then using an app on a smartphone like WiFi analyzer on android (not sure what to use on iPhone, sorry). You'll be able to see which channels are crowded. Then turn your router back on and select a channel with the fewest other wireless networks on it.
Some wireless routers have a way to do this from their web interface.
I use this one.
I don't know if there's a version for laptops or desktops. I just use it on my phone.
If this is a home setting, you don't have to worry about it. The advantages would be if you had a lot of active devices using the AP and would want say, heavy users like streaming on one channel band and then the casual web browsers on the other channel. All of this is to avoid channel congestion.
You should also run a WiFi scanner to determine which channels are also being used by your neighbors in order to get the best quality of service using INSSIDER or this nifty Android app.
Try an app like this one to see how much wifi traffic is flying around. While it seems like there are 14 channels for 2.4GHz wifi, because of signal leakage/overlap there are actually only 4 in an optimal case. Alternatively, if you can, try a wired connection.
Link to app
Since it basically means it's a wireless problem all we can do to help is trying to alleviate the problem, you might still have issues.
Most likely you have this problem for 1 out of 2 reasons. 1: Poor signal strength. 2: You live somewhere where there are lots of other WiFi networks within range and all these signals create noise on your WiFi making you lag.
For number 2, you should try changing the channel of your router's WiFi. First you need to check which channels are available. If you have an android phone install WiFi analyzer. This will tell you which channel is the least used in your area so you can change to that channel. No equivalent product for iPhone. On PC you can use WiFiInfoView. It won't tell you straight out which channel is the best, but you can see what everyone else is using and avoid those channels.
Channels 1, 6 and 11 are the best channels. The reason for this is that the channels overlap eachother (5mhz between each channel, but each channel is 20-40mhz wide). Most routers use channel 6 out of the box. If only one or two other people are using channels 1 or 11 it's fine to use one of those. If channels 1, 6 and 11 are all heavily used, you can try choosing a channel in the middle of any of the "good" channels to test it out.
If you need help setting up your router to change these settings, post your router's brand and model here and we can help you.
Your router seems fine. It's probably wireless interference from somebody who set up new Wifi equipment and it's conflicting with your signal. Go into your router's config page, make sure your router firmware is up to date, and find out what channel is the least problematic and configure your router accordingly.
This Android app will help if you have such a phone.
Or you can scan your area using a laptop and this program.
If your area is too crowded by Wifi signals, you should buy a FireTV instead and connect directly to the router via Ethernet. I personally never stream to my TV over Wifi because of the possibility of this kind of interference.
A small portion of radiation does leave the microwave, due to quantum tunneling. A running microwave has a significant effect 2.4 GHz band. You can test it out by placing a phone near a microwave, using a program like WiFi Analyzer to read the signal to noise ratio, then turning the microwave on, and measuring the change in signal to noise ratio.
The emissions can be high enough that it will drown out lower power 2.4 GHz transmissions, like Bluetooth signals.
Do you mean something like this?
There is a WifiManager class in the Android SDK that gives low-level access to this data.
Har selv brugt det her app :)
This app has been invaluable to wifi analysis and site surveys:
what is the client device?
what are the spec of the server?
what is the format/container/bitrate og the video?
how are the device connected ? i.e wired, wireless
what program/app are you using to connect to plex?
is it a computer, laptop, smart tv, phone.......?
it is hard if not impossible to answer these kinds of questions without at least some of the relevant information
here are some basic network advice i can give you, based on what little information you have given me
General wired connection issues
General wireless connection issues
Are you using wifi? This is probably something causing your wifi to get packet loss. There are a lot of devices that is using the same 2.4GHz spectrum as wifi, so a lot of thing that can interfere. Thing like Bluetooth, wireless mice/keyboard/headphones, cordless phones, baby monitors, RC cars, microwave ovens, wireless security cameras, other wifi networks and pretty much anything wireless you can think of can be a problem. So closing the window might be enough to block out some signal coming from your neighbors.
There are 2 solutions to this. First of all, you can try changing the frequency your router is using for the wifi. You want to be using either channel 1, 6 or 11 (as the channels overlap and a wifi network takes up 2 channels on either side of the one you pick). There is an app called "Wifi Analyzer" for android (probably something similar for the iphone) that you can use too see other wifi networks, what channels they are using and how close they are. However this app does only see other networks, and can't see other interference, so just try 1, 6 and 11 to see which works best.
The other solution, which is way better for gaming, is to just get an Ethernet cable and hook up your computers directly to your router. Wifi is never great to game on, as it will always cause some latency. And in your case, a lot of latency as you are getting packet loss.
To hop on this comment this app is great Wifi Analyzer it works great for seeing which channel isnt crowded. Just make sure your phone supports 5ghz otherwise it will be all in vain most new phones support im assuming since my 3 year old LG G2 supports 5ghz
if you're on your own private network with just you on it, wifi power only depends on the quality of wifi.
make sure your router isn't shit. Generally the combo-boxes provided by robbers or bail are shit (rogers/bell).
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en - see how crowded your area is. If it's too crowded you're better off running a wire.
running cord through apt is usually ok. You can always tape it to the floor or something, or run it along the wall behind furniture. Since you're in a managed building you'll want to avoid any wall or floor damage though, so be careful.
What model wireless router do you have?
This app can also tell you if you're on 2.4MHz or 5GHz:
It's aptly named WiFi Analyzer.
This will only be of help if you are in an area where there are several WiFi points in range, e.g. an appartment complex.
Access your router's settings by entering http://192.168.1.1/ in your browser and hitting enter. In the login screen the user will be admin, the password will either be blank, your wifi password or your default wifi password (Should be printed on the box). Click on Wireless and then Advanced. Here you want to change the channel, but what you change it to is abit tricky. Channels 1, 6 and 11 are the best so every router uses one of these by default. In a WiFi dense area this makes for alot of noise which equals lag. If you have an Android phone install WiFi Analyzer!. It will scan your area and find the best channel. No equal product for iPhone unless its jailbroken sadly. On Windows (PC), you can use WiFiInfoView!. It won't tell you straight out which channel is best, but you can see which channels everyone else uses. If everyone around you uses all the good channels (1, 6 and 11), but no one is using any of the other, try to get right in the middle of 2 of the least used good channels. (If only 1 or 2 people around you are using channels 1 or 11 it's perfectly fine to use those.)
If you have a low signal to your router you might want to consider buying a Powerline Adapter. A Powerline Adapter plugs into the electrical socket in your wall and turns your entire house's power line into a lan network. You put one next to your router, run a cable from your router and to the adapter, put another adapter at your PC and run a wire from it to your PC. As far as I can tell, most people seem very happy with it in regards to ping vs WiFi. I'm far from an expert on these so please use google well before buying one.
Living with roommates you aren't banging sounds terrible. I used a wifi analyzer.
If I could find an excellent one that was designed a few years ago, I'd do that. Just don't really feel like spending $50+ on something I'll replace in a year or two when google fiber is here.
Never had any speed issues, and I did almost the exact same things as you. Nothing you mentioned affects WiFi speed. Are you having both slow WiFi and LTE?
There must be something else related. Unless there is an actual speed issue?
Download wifi analyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
and see what that says.
If it is an LTE issue, please type in your carrier (T-Mobile) APN settings via google.
Also check your battery usage. Running apps, and wakelocks for anything beyond the usual Google Play Services, Network Location, etc...
Yes its called.
Edit: you can see what channels are there and how crowded they are.
Put the router in the most central location and as high as you can. Use an app like WiFi Analyzer on your phone to find the channels that have the least interference and use them. 5Ghz will likely have less interference, use that on as many devices as possible.
I use the wifi analyzer app
Wireless networks are finicky creatures. There are all sorts of things that could contribute to this sort of issue, which would take several weeks of explanation to a computer programming student. I'll mention what I can that might help, but it's been a while since I took that class so take my comments with a grain of salt.
Signal strength is a measure of the Signal-to-Noise Ratio of the received signal... which isn't actually a ratio, but that's not the important part. If your PC shows a high signal strength for your wireless router, that only means that your PC can "hear" your router. It doesn't mean that your router can hear your PC. This means that you can end up having outgoing packets dropped even though your computer rightfully advertises that it has a clear signal from the router.
Now, normally I'd think that the PC didn't have the proper antenna attached. Desktop computers often require external antennae for full signal strength. However, your post indicates that you've already tried a different adapter. I'd first ask whether or not you've tried that USB adapter in your laptop in the same location as your desktop.
Assuming your laptop also has trouble in the same location with the same WiFi hardware, then you're probably looking at some kind of interference. There may be something else operating on the same frequencies near the router interfering with its ability to receive messages from your PC. The good news is, you may be able to just switch to a better WiFi channel.
If you have an Android phone, have a look at WiFi Analyzer or similar programs available on the app store. I'm not sure what equivalents are out there for other platforms. A tool like that will tell you which WiFi channel is the best for your network. Just be sure the device running the tool is in the location of your troublesome PC and set to use the WiFi network you are trying to improve, and it will give a score for each channel.
I think some hardware also has a setting for transmit power, but I forget where to set that and WiFi TX power is also regulated by law. If a WiFi analysis tool doesn't solve your problem, you might want to do some research into that and/or extended antennas.
>The network card and inSSIDer only detect one network, which I'm pretty sure is wrong.
Yeah that seems unusual....I would have to imagine you should see at least one other network being that 2.4 is fairly crowded. Do you have an Android device? If so stick this on it and see what all it can find: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
However being that you are so close I'm thinking that interference is most likely not the cause (though hard to rule it out completely). Did you try plugging direct into the router and running a speedtest that way?
If you want to be able to select Access Points and investigate nearby WIFI, you need an app called Wifi Analyzer
This is all sorts of bullshit.
Here's the first article I googled to explain it a bit, even though that's based on the Tomato firmware but it's the same premise.
1) You can increase a router's power, fact.
2) The Comcast reps cannot increase your -xmit- power with their tools on your rented gateway, they just can't. The firmware doesn't allow it, neither do the tools they use to manage it.
3) Running a higher -xmit- will put additional stress/heat on your router, which is why no manufacturer does it out of the box, especially since almost all routers have passive cooling. They're not going to max their equipment when they know there will be a time when someone is gonna leave it on the floor, covered in blankets that their dog sits on, blocking all vents and choking it, because people are stupid. They have to account for extraneous circumstances. Regardless, they can't do that anyway!!!
There is no "maxmimum range". They changed your router to a different channel (1, 6, or 11, the only channels that don't overlap). Basically, they probably saw you were on Ch1 and changed you to 6... or 11...and crossed their fingers.
You can check your wifi interference by downloading a free Android app, such as Wifi Analyzer, dunno what the same is for iPhone, but that will tell you how many people are on what channels.
Choose the one that's least congested on 1, 6, or 11. All the other channels overlap and wont help much.
Get a WiFi detection tool (there are apps for your phone that do this, like iStumbler or Wifi Analyzer) and walk around with it to get some idea of where it's coming from. Are you sure it's a network connection you're seeing? You might have accidentally enabled the tethering/hotspot option on your phone or another device. If so, turn it off. Should be under your internet settings.
You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)
If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler.
You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.
Tried rebooting Linksys router?
Tried firmware update to the Linksys router?
Tried changing your DNS to Google DNS of 220.127.116.11 and 18.104.22.168
After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.
If you are connected to the router via wireless...
I would suggest trying to update the router and do a complete factory reset. Then, only enable the 2.4 GHz band and make sure it is setup to be wireless-G compatible (this probably shouldn't make a differences than setting it as wireless-N, but just an extra troubleshooting step). Turn off all security and encryption and try connecting.
If it still doesn't work, you want to see if there is any interference from other wireless networks. Use the Android app Wifi Analyzer and see if there are a lot of other networks in your area and if any of them are broadcasting on the same channel. If they are, then switch channels. If there are no empty channels, then the 2.4 GHz spectrum in your area is saturated and there is not much you can do besides getting a new more powerful router, moving the router closer to the Chromecast, or getting a repeater.
In general the faster the router is capable of (as long as your laptop uses the same technology like 802.11n or 802.11ac) then theoretically the more you have to work with. With wireless you have to remember that it is susceptible to interference and the further you are (or the more barriers you have between your laptop and router) the slower it will connect. Also, if you have multiple wireless devices you need to remember that they are all connecting to the same router on the same channel/frequency, meaning the more there are the slower each will be as they have to share the air.
In general a 2.4GHz signal can penetrate more barriers (to a degree, concrete is worse than wood to penetrate for example) and go a little further, but 5GHz usually is less congested as everyone and their dog uses 2.4 (including cordless phones, microwaves, bluetooth, etc). so, 802.11n can use both frequencies depending on the hardware (5GHz is optional for n), and AC uses 5Ghz - check this out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11#802.11a_.28OFDM_Waveform.29
likely you will want to look at newer technology such as at least 'N' (preferably 'N' that does both 2.4 and 5GHz as the 5GHz part is 'optional' for some manufacturers) or even 'AC' which does 5GHz with multiple streams or connections to make it faster.
The size of the antenna will have an effect as well on the router, but you have to keep in mind that client devices such as a laptop usually have a small antenna, so the 'strength' is often times one way if only the router has bigger antennas.
I suggest trying to track down a wifi analyzer and see what is being broadcast on the various channels in your area (your neighbors) to help make a decision of 2.4 vs 5ghz and what channel to use when you do the set up of the router. Some routers might aslo be able to 'autoselect' the least congested channel that it can 'hear'. If you have an android this one works well and is free - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Finding one for windows is trickier, most are not free anymore or are out of date. you can try checking out these but I do not know how well they work as I have never used them - http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html or http://wvw.xirrus.com/wifi-inspector
if all the channels are clogged up (especially in the 2.4GHz frequency, which might be true) that would explain poor signal/connections in some rooms. for 2.4 there are only 3 channels that are useful - 1, 6, and 11. The ones in between 'overlap' with each other and can cause interference with the neighbors using a nearby channel (like channel 2 and 3 would overlap). You can try changing the channel setting now on your router to 1 then 6 then 11 to see if your signals improve with any of them before spending cash on a new router.
Wifi radio channel could be very busy with traffic. Not just yours but neighbors. Most routers default at channel 6. WIFI isn't a switch and performs more like a hub regarding radio traffic.
On google play https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Channels 1,6 and 11 are the only ones without overlap.
Pick the one with the least number of stronger signals remembering the overlap. I'm not a fan of auto channel setting and would rather re-scan when issues appear. i.e. I might be on 1 permanently and let those other routers play the auto game.
I suspect with the apps you aren't streaming HD down but with the web browser you are...
If you have an android device install WiFi Analyzer, there are plenty of choices on Windos or OSX, just search Wifi scanner.
Determine the best channel to set the router to, there is a guide for this on the side.
I suggest you plug your computer to the router and run a speed test a couple of times. Then, unplug said computer and while having it right next to the router, run a speed test again. Note if there is a significant difference and report back. Wireless is one of the worst things to troubleshoot, there are too many variables to consider. And your wireless device isn't too great.
If you're on wireless, check to make sure your signal isn't being interrupted by others in the nearby area.
Here is a handy android app that helps me when diagnosing wireless issues.
It's best to select a wireless channel that is separated by 5 channels from another transmission. If that is not possible, the farthest away possible in channels will suffice.
In example, my network transmits on channel 3, there are multiple networks in my area on channels 1, 6, 11. I chose 3 because there were more networks on 6 and 11 than 1.
If you need further help, please don't hesitate to ask!
There's also farproc's WiFi Analyzer for Android.
I agree. OP, give something like WiFi Analyzer a go on your Android device. It should help you identify a relatively clear channel.
One side observation: I've always found poor connectivity directly above the router (i.e. ~20° from top dead centre)
If you have an Android phone, use WiFi Analyzer. It'll let you know if it's a 5GHz or 2.5GHz connection. The 3DS can only connect to the 2.5GHz one.
Which router do you have? Have you logged into its admin interface to see whether it is set to change the channel automatically?
On Android, I use this - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer - to measure WiFi strength & channel availability.
Mesh would only be better because the system coordinates the config automatically. If you figure out the correct settings you don't need this.
Make sure all the APs are set up to use exactly the same SSID name(s), preshared key, and authentication standard. Plan your channel use to avoid overlapping - in the 2.4 GHz spectrum use only channels 1, 6, and 11 and use the same channel for the two APs that are furthest apart. There is less overlap in the 5GHz spectrum. Definitely avoid greater than 20Hz channel width with 4 access points. Use a tool like WiFi Analyser to look at the signal strength of each of your channels close to each access point and in the places where you commonly connect. Depending on how far apart your APs are you likely want to set the radio power lower to avoid your devices changing their minds about which AP to connect to, especially where the crossover points are likely to be where you spend more time rather than just pass through.
Honestly, given some time and experimentation you are likely to do a better job of this manually than a mesh system or many "prosumer" controller managed systems.
I would recommend, if you have Android, installing WiFi Analyser and checking the current channel use in the vicinity of your access point. You want to avoid partial overlaps with other WiFi networks. Better to share a channel where APs and clients can back off than have a slightly overlapping channel interfering. That is why 1, 6 and 11 are the best as they don't overlap at all. 9 can get interference from 6 and 11. I don't know if the Omada channel utilisation caters for this at all. I suspect not.
Can you not use wired for PS5?
If not then, you may get better performance from 2.4 if the signal is weak.
Use something like this to determine what bands to use.
Most likely this is due to the frequency being too congested, meaning you have a lot of neighbors that are also running wifi networks. 2.4Ghz is still way more commonly used than 5Ghz, so it's likely to be much more affected by congestion. 5Ghz also has less range, so you won't get interference from as far away.
What might help is changing the channel on your router. If you have an Android phone I recommend downloading an app called Wifif Analyzer (it might exist for iOS too), it will show you how congested the different wifi channels are and tell you which one is likely to give you the best signal. Go into your routers settings and change to that channel.
It might help, it might not. Depends on how bad the congestion around you is.
Install this on your Android phone. Check what channels you can see and move to one that is free.
Nitpick: you would usually need to pair the devices by entering the code shown or clicking Pair on the phone. The devices need to be connected earlier for this to happen automatically.
If you connected to a speaker, the phone would have to be playing some media for the sound to come out; somewhat improbable when you are hiding.
But then again, we know how accurate Hollywood is when it comes to tech.
Now if the phone happened to be in a hotspot mode, its SSID and signal strength would be trivial to find. A free app like Wifi Analyzer would show the signal strength in real time.
Download a Wi-Fi analyzer app, and use that to sense all the available wifi.
"He said he wants to come next week and inspect my station, and I said, fine."
That is a very strange thing for a lawyer to say. There is nothing this unqualified bureaucrat can determine from looking at your station that would say you are or are not in compliance. I agree it sounds like a fishing expedition; he is looking for more weeds.
This guy has zero jurisdiction over radio interference and neither does the state code he "knows" or the local code he enforces:
And most RFI cases are not the fault of the ham. It is crappy equipment on their end.
They have not even established
* that there are signals that don't comply with FCC regulations
* that those are coming from a ham station
* that those are coming from your ham station
Your neighbor could have crappy TV wiring. It could be a CB radio, those frequently transmit signals that are not in compliance with the law. Someone could have parked a vehicle where it interferes with his signal. It could be the power lines; it frequently is. It could be the cellular towers that transmit on former TV frequencies desensitizing a OTA TV amplifier or TV front end. It could be an FM radio broadcast station. It could be another neighbor's vacuum cleaner. In other words, the fact that you are a ham radio operator is not probable cause.
If it interferes with "the internet", tough. Internet via Cable, DSL, fiber, etc. has no rights regarding radio spectrum. By law it "must accept interference from other sources". WiFi must as well, other than deliberate jamming. WiFi channels are secondary users on ham radio bands or in the Industrial, Scientific, and Medical bands (ISM).
Borrow a spectrum analyzer or a decent SDR. preferably something with at least a 12bit ADC (72dB). Add in some decimation to get you a few more bits of resolution.
It sounds like you have some feedline current issues. Those should not be confused with RFI, though, except when you have interference to your stuff. If it is legal for you to radiate it from the antenna it is legal for you to radiate it from the feedline, as long as you don't exceed RF exposure limits for people close to the feedline. However, your feedline might be putting out signals closer to your neighbor. You might want to use something like a Palomar Engineers RF current meter or a DIY version.
Do fill out your RF exposure worksheet for the station in case you do get a visit from the FCC.
It sounds like you have tried to work with the neighbor and the neighbor has done nothing to try to work with you.
Also, the level of harassment suggests that he may not be unbiased, he may have a personal connection to the complaining neighbor.
One point it raises is that if your ham station doesn't affect your TV, it is very unlikely to affect your neighbor's (allowing for differences in cable vs OTA).
Apps like these can be helpful with figuring out what is wrong with your neighbor's wifi:
Note that older LTE filters may not work as cell providers have encroached further into the TV broadcast band.
You may have a lot of resources in your local club. They may have test equipment, power line filters, HF lowpass filters, EMI chokes, LTE/5G filters, FM traps, etc.
Sorry for delay getting back to you. I used an app called Wifi Analyzer on Android - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer is the one you want. Made by Farproc.
You really need to check the Ubiquiti management interface to see. It'll tell you whether you are connecting in the 2.4 Ghz band or the 5 Ghz band and then the signal strength.
For site survey purposes, I usually use a strength meter app on my iPhone. They exist for the Android as well.
Use Apple's Airport Utility app, which has a secret built in WiFi analyzer. Click here for a tutorial on how to set this app up to analyze your WiFi environment.
For Android devices, use WiFi Analyzer.
This article I wrote a while ago may be helpful. I need to update it for the latest Ubiquiti gear.
Do a full flash erase before programming. Some of the WiFi parameters are stored in Flash unless you tell it to not save the configuration. You might get it working with only erasing Sketch + WiFi Settings, but a full wipe has a slightly better chance of working if the Flash is corrupted.
If that doesn't do it, fire up a decent WiFi scanner on your phone and check if a new signal pops up in AP mode when you turn the NodeMCU on (whether it actually has an SSID or not). If you're in an area with lots of signals, that may be hard to do. The older version of WiFi Analyzer for Android was pretty good for spotting erratic signals, the newer one doesn't work nearly as well.
Without some RF tools, those are the only things I can think of that you can try easily.
And regarding the analysis
Use your phone - the idea (and what you can see on the picture)
If your network is all alone without covering others colors that mean you are alone on that channel so no interference
If your network share the same as multiple others. Make sure it’s in automatic mode
I have OP 8 Pro, and it seems like my phone sees WiFi's on 149 channel. I don't have password to these WiFi's tho. I'm using this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
I personally really like this graphic and I think everyone setting up an access point should know it:
The important thing is that you want access points to be using channels that are different enough. Then they won't interfere.
If that is not possible for any two APs in the same range, you need to use the exact same channel, because then they can do CSMA/CA and avoid sending at the same time. They will have to share total bandwidth, but they will do it gracefully.
The worst thing you can do is share adjacent channels. Like 3 and 4. Then CSMA/CA won't work, and they will send at the same time but always impact each other because the signals will bleed into each other. Both senders will have to retransmit frequently and you lose even more bandwidth than if they were sharing nicely.
If you can enforce the use of only channels 1, 5, 9, 13 you can maximize the bandwidth for everyone. I don't know how to do the same in the 5GHz band, but it has lower penetration and more differently spaced channels so it may not be as much of an issue. You should google a bit.
Also for measuring roughly what people are currently doing, you can use something very simple like this app on an android phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer I don't know what people do professionally.
Also, use a WiFi analyzer app for check what WiFi channels are being used. Change to a different channel if it's already used.
> My desktop still tests out at 950Mbps with an ethernet connection. What did Comcast do?
> To test I tried 2 iPhones, 2 iPads and a Samsung phone all with the same results. I don't think it is my equipment. I am exchanging the modem today and have a service call scheduled for Monday if the new modem doesn't help.
> however the tech said it appeared to be on their equipment and they have had a problem with this in my area.
Like other Redditors have mentioned, the wired throughput is still 950 mbps, so something is affecting you in the WiFi realm.
Odds are WiFi contention is affecting your wireless throughput.
In other words, a neighbor (who may be the other person reporting slow WiFi issues in your neighborhood) is now using the same WiFi channel that you are using.
A quick site survey with a WiFi Analyzer app would quickly (dis)prove this theory.
I use this one:
Heya, sadly because they live far and because of covid restrictions I didn't get to see them again at their place, but something similar happened to me with one of my stick and I kinda fixed it in a weird way.
I have 1000 up and 1000 down internet so I know that my speed isn't an issue, a firestick should give me at least 90 mbps on a 2.4 signal.
I was trying to watch something 4k on plex and that 4k content was very heavy like 35mbps kind of heavy, pretty much no compression.
The thing was skipping a lot... I did a speedtest and weirdly it could only get 20 mbps.
So a few research later I tried this :
downloaded "wifi analyzer" on my phone and ran some test to see which frequency was the most used.
I then went into my router into wifi settings, manage wifi/advanced.
And changed the 2.4 Channel for something else. that had "less traffic" according to the app.
Suddenly went back to 100mbps on a speedtest for the firestick.
I tried to explain that to my in-laws but they're not very tech savvy and I believe they couldn't find their router password... so I figured i'd try it for them at a later date.
Hope that helps.
Just a few more details you might find useful.
Generally you want your Quest connected to 5Ghz WiFi instead of 2.4ghz. Most modern routers use both so you'll want to make sure you're connecting to the right SSID. Some routers use the same SSID for both connections and your Quest could automatically switch on you. The easiest way to avoid this happening this is to ensure they use a unique SSID like SnowShoe-5ghz and SnowShoe-2ghz.
Also, get yourself a WiFi Analyzer app and verify your router isn't using the same channel (or overlapping) as one of your neighbors WiFi access points. If they are it'll reduce your available bandwidth and increase the latency which typically results in poor AirLink performance.
The technical details are that you want 5ghz WiFi5 (AC1200 - 876Mbps max speeds) or WiFi6 using 80mhz (or larger) channels.
Indeed, already got them from the initial offer when I signed up with them.
is this the one? Thanks!
> in densely populated areas
An easy way to determine what channels are cleanest in your location is a wifi analyser app on your phone.
When I got my Windstream router I changed the default wifi name it came with, somthing like "WIN_" followed by some random numbers that's printed on a label on the side of the unit, to something easier to remember, like "MyWifi". Then when I set up my TCL TV, I was able to pick that same "MyWifi" from a list of all the SSIDs the TV was able to see. It sounds like your TV and other devices aren't seeing the wifi access point your Windstream router is creating?
If you have an Android phone or tablet, have you ever tried the Wifi Analyzer app? It can show you what wifi access points are visible in your location, maybe your devices are trying to connect to one of your neighbor's instead.
Have you tried changing the channel of your home Wifi network? Use a cell phone app like Wifi Analyzer to see what channel everyone's broadcasting on and adjust so they don't overlap as much. (Ideally you want to be four channels away from anyone else, but 2 or 3 will do in a pinch.)
Speeds advertised are always theoretical maximum.
There are literally hundreds of factors interfering with your WiFi... Is your neighbor running his microwave?
Get a Wifi analyzer for your phone and see how much of a storm is around you.
Here is one really good for Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Not sure of how much more help I will be able to offer.
But if you can provide the exact Brand Names and model numbers of your phone and your Wifi Router, then maybe someone here can look and see what might be the problem.
Also, you might look into installing a Wifi Network scanning app onto your phone and see what channels the Router is broadcasting on and other settings.
For Android/Google Play devices, I like using - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
Have you tried the "Synchronise 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz Settings" set off (you'll need to rename the SSID)?
This might help with interference, but generally doesn't particularly.
Also, check you aren't using the same wifi channel as any neighbours and change as needed. You can use an app such as WiFi Analyzer to check.
Failing that, buying a 5Ghz USB wifi adaptor or else hardwire/use Powerline are the only solutions available to you.
teško mi je ovako reći, jer ne znam što je uzrok slabe brzine, ne postoji one-size-fits-all rješenje.. evo ti par prijedloga i stvari koje prije moram znati, prouči pa mi javi:
- koliko je korisnika wifija
- koja je udaljenost od routera, koliko zidova je između itd..
- skini wifi analyzer za mobitel i pogledaj koliko je mreža oko tebe na istim bandovima
- nađi model routera i napiši mi koji je, i koje wifi standarde podržava, npr. 801.11ac
Not much there, I'm afraid. You can't tell if the channels you're using are congested just by the number, you have to look at what other routers in your area are using. I use this Android app which gives a picture of each competing network and the part of the spectrum it occupies, so you can pick the "most open" channel. I don't know if an app like that is possible on iOS -- after posting the above, I had a quick search around to see if the information I get from Android is available on iOS, and I saw a lot of complaints that not only is the actual link speed not displayed, they don't even expose that information for 3rd party apps to look at, so it's not possible to find it out at all.
It's not the end of the world, though. Even if you don't have an easy way to tell which channel(s) are the least congested, you could still try testing different channels manually and seeing if one of them results in a better Remote Play experience.
First you said it was projecting the photos without the time etc. Then in your reply you said the chromecast isn't available to cast to.
Try using a wifi analyzer app, chromecast won't work without internet.
Your ping is WAY too high (Spiking at over a second there)
Can you post a couple of pictures of where exactly your hub is on the bot? Also, install a wifi monitor on your phone (I use called "Wifi Analyzer") that should give you an idea how crazy the noise is around you, and what channel you may have a better time on
maybe this app will work, basically there are 1-11 channels which are about 20MHz wide, so yeautai channel ma dhereai le use garyo bhane interference dherai huncha ani speed/lag huncha thalcha, aba afno area ko most used channel tyo app le thapau then choose a channel between 1-11 in your router page and update it, this reduces lag/speed by significant amount.
Tem esse aplicativo para Android que ajuda a perceber isso que é o dono mesmo que está usando o cartão.
Pode ser que voce tenha que usar 1 wifi em cada andar.
Antes de comprar wifi mede o sinal em varios pontos da casa usando o app wifi analyzer. Vai andando com o celular e ao mesmo tempo recolocando a antena wifi, e anotando os pontos cegos.
Não ligue muitos PCs que demandem alta velocidade nas portas LAN do modem porque esses aparelhos são péssimos pra isso. Puxa 1 cabo do modem pro switch e liga todo mundo nele (wifi, pc, servidor).
E não compre switch baratinho. O motivo é que o gibabit anunciado é da soma de todas as portas. O certo é 1 gigabit por porta.
Tem esse aplicativo para Android que ajuda a perceber isso que é o que eu imaginei sobre o 2,4 e o sinal. Por exemplo, o próprio Reddit não tem o por que se fizer isso realmente, eles não tem mais qualquer configuração além do WDS.
Here's the analyzer I've used in the past:
The devices are shown as a colored bell chart centered around the transmit channel.
This can help you detect some WiFi channel collisions.
I'm "happy" to read everything is slower now, that makes malware less likely.
Still, this doesn't let me "go".
Is there maybe a lot of WiFi traffic which gets in the way? Some apps like
Can help with finding a less busy spot in the spectrum..
What are the wifi networking devices being used?
Typically 5GHz should be fine at that distance even going through a few walls (Maybe 2-3 bars on a lower end networking card).
If the walls are thicker, maybe go for the 2.4GHz signal, it's usually stronger and provides a better overall signal, though the issue that arises for some is the speed.
If you have a cell phone, log into your network and try an app to analyze network traffic to see if there's an overlap/interference between nearby networks. WiFi Analyzer works, which could be the issue. Simple fix is usually changing the networks channel, if that's the issue.
Download the app and watch this video.
I don't think I've ever seen that before!
Yes, that is exactly what I'm looking for.
I've used apps like Wifi Analyzer on Android before.
The question "Atheros QCA9377 working at low speed" doesn't have an accepted answer. The answer by Elder Geek is the one with the highest score of 1:
>Research indicates that the information available on that interface is minimal however, It appears from your pastebin output that firmware is failing to load and no channel is getting configured. Since the QCA9377 supports it you might try iw which is a "new" nl80211 based CLI configuration utility for wireless devices. It supports all new drivers that have been added to the kernel recently. The old tool iwconfing, which uses Wireless Extensions interface, is deprecated and it's strongly recommended to switch to iw and nl80211.
>You might start by insuring that there is no stronger signal than yours on the frequency/channel you intend to use (and if so pick a less crowded one) I've found the android app [Wifi Analyzer] useful in determining what the best channel to use in a specific area is. Having made this determination you can continue with configuring your router to that channel and then wireless as well with iw Documentation is available [here.] 
>You can get further useful information by getting station statistics against a peer
>If you want to get specific statistics against a peer your station is communicating with you can use the following:
>sudo iw dev wlp3s0 station get &lt;peer-MAC-address&gt;
>In the case of a STA the above <peer-MAC-address> would be the MAC address of your AP (router). Where wlp3s0 is your wireless device which matches to your pastebin output of wlp3s0: renamed from wlan0
>You can use iw to specify specific Tx rates and Tx power as well which might be quite useful under the circumstances. I might also try turning off power saving for the interface. You can check it with iw dev wlp3s0 get power_save
>If it's on you can turn it off with sudo iw dev wlp3s0 set power_save off
sudo iw dev wlp3s0 station get &lt;peer-MAC-address&gt;
wlp3s0: renamed from wlan0
iw dev wlp3s0 get power_save
sudo iw dev wlp3s0 set power_save off
^(This action was performed automagically.) ^(info_post) ^(Did I make a mistake?) ^(contact) ^(or reply: error)
If you have a separate modem and router, the best thing to do is likely to move your router somewhere more central. The cable between them can pretty much be as long as you want. Cat5e (which is what you mostly likely have) is rated for 100 yards for gigabit speeds.
Other tips for improving wifi speeds:
For Android, try this or this Not sure on iOs as I don't use it.
Unless you're using a cloud PC your internet doesn't affect AirLink. It's all a result the quality of your local network/WiFi.
If other devices are using your WiFi then you have to share bandwidth. So if somebody is watching Netflix while you play or even if your phone is just randomly checking for email, updates, etc it can affect your performance.
You'll also want to use a WiFi analyzer application to make sure your neighbors WiFi isn't interfering with yours.
Lastly, sometimes it's just a crappy router and you just need to replace it or buy a second one dedicated to VR use.
My area, so I might offer some free tools:
Install this app on your phone: Wifi Analyzer
With this one you can scan wifi signals in the vicinity. Walk around the house slowly (stop for 20s at every 5m²) with your cellphone open on scanning. You can detect even hidden wifi signals with it. If you find one signal that's suspicious, focus on it and try to find it using the signal strength as a proximity measurement.
For hidden mics and more advanced cameras, I recommend buying a second hand RF detector. If you have a friend who works with either high tension electricity or with telecom, ask if he can borrow you one. Don't trust RF detector apps, 99,9% of cellphones does not have an RF detector and will "infer" values instead of actually measuring them.
Check if levels are very different, many things could happen including issues with internal antennas.
Channels? have a look on the play store you can get some WIFI tools that will show you what is your best frequency.
So you can't ping it at all when it's connected via wifi? what IP is it getting in diagnostics? or from your router?
you can get a free app on play or what ever and do a little scan showing you all the channels that are used.
You do raise an interesting question as far as I'm concerned.
On Android I use an app called "WiFi Analyzer" for tweaking my own wifi. When using this app, it'll show other nearby access points (APs) and this will allow me to choose a quieter channel or to tune the TX power.
I have two good Unify AP's but my bathroom has become the Bermuda Triangle of wifi because the AP's are arguably "too close". Anyway, getting back on topic.. I'm just scratching the surface. I watched one documentary about EMF a few months ago. The people in a few families were talking about wiring everything (which I've always been all about, despite this post) but this reminds me of a story.
In one of the tech support/computer discussion subreddits, a guy had a customer who was smugly proud of using ethernet connections on their computers. So the tech guy goes "your router's access point is still enabled and broadcasting. I can disable it for you if you want."
Although I'm surrounded by neighboring AP's, everything is spaced apart in private residences. Although I went off topic, I do recommend using an app like WiFi Analyzer to scan the surrounding WiFi AP's. How is the SNR (signal-to-noise ratio)/signal strength in general.
I think anything lower than -70dBm is low, but I would say it's best to establish a baseline. Stand near your wifi router and see how the signal compares to the other ones.
I'm still making sense of things, but I'm of the school of thought that individual devices are more of a concern for me (such as the ones I sleep near). I mean like, I got a WiFi AP in the kitchen below my tortoise's hut, sleep with a phone, have two google assistant speakers (speaker pair) in front of my bed, and a TCL roku TV. Getting back to your topic, 20+ routers in 300sq/ft. Well, I'd say that other factors should be considered. Are the walls made of something old and heavy or thinner materials?
A wall can deprive 20-30 feet from a signal, while a corner can reduce the range by 90 feet. At least that's what the old user manual said for one of my earlier wifi AP's (back in 2004).
Ok. So replace it with a cable. If you can't run a cable. Try a powerline adaptor. These can have problems as well though. eg https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Adapter/s?k=Powerline+Adapter
If you really only have a phone. Use 3G / 4G / 5G and skip the wifi stuff completly. Or jump to 5Ghz wifi tech and replace all your hardware :)
In short wireless works like this (or doesn't work as the case may be). If you have a 104MBit wifi connection the protocol basically says you can transmit half the time. So its immediatly reduced to 54MBit
Another problem is that its limited to 11 channels and they all overlap. So for 104MBit wifi tech it uses 6 channels at a time to achive such speeds. So if you have 4 neighbours in range dvide the remaining 54MBit by the number of people involved on those channels.
To put this in perspective. The actualy speed I get locally on wifi is about 1MBit at best because there is something like 20+ access points in range from nearby houses and ever more devices. eg assume 2 people per house minimun each with a phone, computer / tv or something. So thats like 40-60 devices playing on wifi in the local area. So that would come out at 104 / 60 = 1.7MBit. But in reality ou just need a few things to be using 100% of the bandwidth active at the same time to suffer performance issues with wifi. Particularlly things which are on the signal boundry.
There is an app on andriod called WifiAnlyser it will show you what the local neighbours look like. Wifi scanenrs are banned from Apple devices a long time ago. But it will show you what the channel breakdown looks like.
Like a human behaviour analogy is like trying to have a group conversation in a laggy video call. Where multiple people all start talking at the same time trying to get a "slot". Then they all stop cause they realise they are stepping on each other. Then randomly start again after a period of delay. Wifi kinda does something like this. ITs why the thoughput drops to "shit" very quickly.
This is why the advice is almost always replace it with a £10 25meter cat5e cable. Cause it will do 1000MBit without issues most of the time.
Its normally not a problems with a router. This is why they ask you to test by using something plugged directly into the back of the router using a cable and not using wifi. If you request an engineer this is the first thing they will do which will also result in "user error" and you being billed for the visit for a false positive fault report.
Effectivly the net connections are faster then the wifi tech tese days. Unless you go to the 5Ghz wifi tech rather than the 2.4Ghz stuff. Which less people use so the spectrum is still free. But not all devices support it.
WiFi used to work when nobody was using it. Now the radio spectrum is just saturated with noise. Also wifi shares its frequency with all sorts of other things like cordless phones, bluetooth, baby monitors, wireless microphones, video repeaters, garage door remotes, smart power monitors, central heating control systems etc.. etc.. which makes more problems.
It’s a phone app, there’s one called Wi-Fi analyzer.
When you run it, it will analyze the wireless spectrum. Checking this first helps with troubleshooting before you move on to something else.
So how is the router your connecting the Quest / using Virtual Desktop connected talking to your PC? If that's not hard wired you're going to have problems.
Download a WiFi analyzer app. There are many but I use this one and it will show you all the channels being used by all the WiFi access points ti can see. If you the little arch for your WiFi name overlapping another then you're competing for bandwidth with that other router and it is probably affecting your VD performance. So you need to find a free channel and make your router use it.
this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Fixing zigbee range is difficult without diagnostic/tools or ways to tell if it's working better. If you're getting sporadic control via the app, i.e. slow or missing colour/brightness changes, it's probably channel and wifi interference, rather than distance.
Without knowing the layout, i'd probably suggest going for line-of-sight first, rather than distance. i.e. anywhere you can see the garage/garage window from the house, should have a bulb or repeater nearby. that should be enough.
There is some flexibility for the signal echoing and reflecting to the repeater, so a far-corner 70-80ft away, may have better signal than a room that's 20ft away. Since they overlap in the 2.4ghz range, the solutions to fix wifi coverage work for zigbee, with some exceptions.
In some cases, you may need to change the zigbee channel, which is a bit awkward on tradfri devices. ie. change the hue zigbee channel to where you have a gap in the wifi channel size/frequency range, and then set your own WiFi Channels to avoid the Zigbee channel, so there's no overlap with neighbours. If it's been a while, you probably need to check what your neighbour's wifi is doing, since it could be interfering.
You may need an android app like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer to show you the overlapping wifi channels in use near the garage to check what's being used outdoors, sic. or a laptop. Unfortunately IOS banned this ages ago, you'd have to jailbreak an old ipad or iphone to scan for wifi channels and hidden SSIDs that are broadcasting that would interfere.
you can get a list of the overlapping channel numbers here https://www.metageek.com/training/resources/zigbee-wifi-coexistence.html
Where there's a large enough channel gap (it doesn't have to be perfect, look at the signal strength to find a "good enough" gap) and move the hue lights over to the new channel, it takes like 2-5 minutes and you won't notice much of a difference. If any lights aren't responding, switch off for a minute then turn it on for it to re-pair and shift channel across. The tradfri bulbs may take a bit longer to hop onto the new channel unless you soft-reset them by powering off and on again.
Since Zigbee works in the 2.4ghz range, the same overlap and signal planning for WiFi can apply, i.e. the "bubble" strategy can help, i.e. drop a pin/circle on a floor plan where the device is, and draw a 10ft circle radius, not stopping when it hits a wall, but reducing to a dotted line instead. Where the bubbles don't overlap, you have to look at ratios and distances, sic. i.e. it doesn't really stop when it hits a wall, it usually halves the remaining distance on both side(s) of the wall (sic).
It's hard to know if the repeater is adding 'noise' or boosting a weak signal, especially because outdoor and indoor mesh don't interact the same way especially with weather and RF interference, along with RF radio/garage openers, analogue cameras in the 2.4ghz range, car remotes, cordless phones, bird feeders, sic. The repeater only effectively knows who is in range, when the signal is returning back, and finds a route via the time it takes to reach the original source. This way, each device can be temporary, but the bridge will learn/recall what the network looks like by the route taken.
Which is why using a door sensor or light control (not the ones paired directly to a bulb/group) or zigbee button as a signal tester is probably the easiest test for the mesh, but it's probably necessary to clear out the simpler problems before you look for gaps in coverage which takes longer to fix.
Have a scan of your WiFi when using wpad-basic with it on and off; https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer but first enable an option in it's settings to Show All Securities. Look for your AP having something like RSN-PSK-CCMP-SHA256 If it has the SHA256, MFP is enabled.
A new router could fix this problem; but this sounds like a possible interference problem; so it would probably be best to try to troubleshoot the problem first, seeing how you mention that other parts of your home still get great service and speeds.
You should start by using a Wifi app on your phone to scan your physical environment for competing Wifi signals and then change your Wifi router to a less congested broadcast channel.
I use: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
This was from a previous post I made here in /r/Omaha, but the info still is relevant:
Test your connection over LAN first
If you aren't getting your advertised speed when connected directly to the modem, it may be your modem.
DOCSIS? What's DOCSIS?
Basically, DOCSIS is the standard for communication for your modem (over simplification). DOCSIS 2.X has a limitation of 38 mbps down. What that means is even if you are paying for 300mbps down, if you only have a DOCSIS 2.X modem, you aren't getting above that data cap. You need a DOCSIS 3X modem to really start taking advantage of those speeds. See this article
But U/Azriphale, I have a DOCSIS 3.X modem and I get my advertised speeds from it when connected via cable, my wifi still sucks! Help!
Ok, so here's where things get a bit more complicated. You can't always use your router as is. Sometimes you need to configure settings. For me, until I tweaked my router, I capped out at 30 mbps down despite having a great modem and good speeds. I had to do the following:
Ultimately, it may not be YOU!
There is always the possibility that the signal strength to your house is awful or that there is something wrong on your ISP's side. If you have to have them come out, remember 3 things:
This will help some of you I hope. Ultimately, every situation is different. Good luck!
I mean it's interference that's causing the wifi problems.
I use this tool to show me which channels have the most access points and then switch the router to one of the less congested channels. Checking the adapter is connecting to the 5ghz network can make a big difference too.
Download WiFi Analyzer to check for interference from neighbors. The 2.4GHz spectrum is way more crowded than 5GHz, so if you live next to people you're going to have issues. You can use the app to determine if that's the case; if you see more than one or two networks sharing a channel with yours, go into the router settings, switch it to a less congested one (w and the problem will go away.
Alternatively, you can also disable 2.4GHz and use just 5GHz if that is a possibility for your needs. The range isn't as good but it's faster and better in every other way. So if your home is less than 2000 sqft then 5GHz is the way to go. Even if you live in a large home, you can always invest into mesh WiFi. Really the only reason to use 2.4GHz is if you're either extremely poor like me and can't afford to upgrade to mesh, or you're still using legacy devices that don't support 5GHz.
So, what do I THINK it MIGHT be the issue.
1 - Slow downloads: You are connected to a 2.4 network.
2 - Not seeing a 5GHZ network: It MAY be a channel issue. I had this issue with another device in the past, and the issue was the the 5GHZ network was in a higher channel that it could see.
You could try to install an phone app that detects wifi networks and see on what channel your 5GHZ network is running.
Personally, I use this app on my phone:
I have no idea if it's actually the issue, but it's the only think that I know that could help.
Use a wifi signal app to check the levels from the ubiquitous antennas around the house, over -75 is a poor signal.
I did some googling and it could be a number of different things, the first I would try is resetting your network settings on the phone. If that doesn't work you might want to start exploring your router's settings.
Make sure the time and region are correct on your router. Make sure the 5GHz signal is using bands that the device can support. If you have it set to automatic it should be fine. Also, load up an app called WiFi Analyzer on the phone and check if it can see the network. Make sure it says 5G in the top left, just tap it if it doesn't.
Or you could just download the wifi analyzer app to see what bands each device is using to see if you're contending for air time.
Hopefully it's obvious that you are both contending for data through the router, i.e. if you both are trying to download huge files from really fast servers at the same time your total download speed is still capped at 1 Gbps.
Well those results aren't great. Regarding, the interference, you should try a less crowded Wi-Fi channel or upgrade to the 5ghz signal.
To check the best channel; on android, you can use this app; https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
To help improve your bufferbloat, you should enable something called Quality of Service (QoS) on your router.
It's the Channel of the WiFi band so 5ghz can range from 36 to 165. You can check that in your router settings or by using an app like WiFi Analyzer.
Mine's at -55 dbm so there's no issue there. Are
you the only one on the wifi. Meaning nothing else is on the wifi network?
Get a wifi analyzer and make sure your neighbors routers aren't interfering with your wifi signal.
Dependendo da grossura e do material da parede o sinal cai mesmo, ainda mais se for 5GHz.
Use o app Wifi Analyzer pra medir certinho a intensidade de sinal para o melhor local de colocar o roteador e o aparelho receptor.
Passe a usar a banda de 2GHZ, que tem melhor penetração.
Se for passar cabo vai ter que usar um repetidor de sinal do outro lado. Mas cuidado pra não comprar um baratinho que no fim acaba piorando as coisas.
What router do you have? Model name and number would be nice. Roughly how far are you away from the router? Are you saying you have 2 routers at the same time? I had a similar issue but not with the TV but with other devices. The reason was that sending out 2.4 ghz and 5 ghz using the same SSID somehow made it into an issue. So I have one called WIFINAME and another one called WIFINAME5.
Do you have an android phone? If you do, download Wifi analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer) and share the results.
If you aren't watching it as an mp4 file, try converting it before you watch! Here's a service we recommend using:
Install for free from here: https://handbrake.fr/ Handbrake converts your videos into a Chromecast friendly format so your computer doesn't need to try and do it in real time, just convert problem files before you want to play them (or run them over night) and everything should play smoothly!! In Handbrake you can import these settings we made (makes sure it transcodes into Chromecast friendly format)!
These options are (to double check):
You may want to look at your Wifi environment with an Android app called Wifi Analyzer, if you have an Android phone.
Two things I can think of to consider:
Get some sort of wifi scanning utility to see what other networks are visible at your home. Try to select the least used channels (hopefully that will be totally unused channels, but otherwise look for the one that has the least powerful signal picked up from another network).
All else being equal, avoid DFS channels. To use those channels, an access point is required to scan for radar and vacate the channel if detected. If the non-DFS channels are congested and a DFS channel is clear, go ahead and try it, but if thru look about the same then stick to non-DFS channels.
Android app to scan for WiFi:
There is an application called inSSIDer that seems to be recommended a lot for windows and mac.
Get yourself a wifi analyzer app and verify no other nearby routers are using the same channel as you
While I have not seen this problem on the Chromecast /w Google TV. I have seen similar problems before. You have been afflicted by the curse of WiFi. Try rebooting/Power Cycleing/Unplugging from power then plugging back in your Router.
What brand of router are you using?
If you use this App: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer on your android phone how strong is the wireless signal in the immediate area that the your Chromecast /w Google Play is?
There are apps you can download to a mobile device that can help you run various performance tests on your WiFi. One of the things a lot of these offer is the ability to see which channels are the most congested. This is an Android app, but if you are an iOS user I'm sure you can find something comparable in the App Store. Once you find a channel that is ideal, you can set your router to use that channel exclusively, though the steps to do this will vary from one router to another. Typically, for example, with Netgear products, you'd open a browser on a computer and navigate to 192.168.1.1 (or routerlogin.net) and log in with default credentials. These will probably be written on the router, but may be something generic like admin/admin or admin/password. Then you have to find the settings from your router's configuration page that will allow you to specify a channel. If you need help with this part, let me know what kind of router you have and I'll see if I can assist.
Just keep in mind that the loads on each channel will change based on a variety of factors, even including time of day. Setting your router to automatically select the optimal channel is probably the best approach, except in situations where it seems like it's not doing this properly (which may be the case for you).
There is probably another router on the same channel as you. Use a Wifi Analyzer to ensure you aren't on the same channel as another router.
search for "wifi analyzer"
on google play, i use this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
What channel is your 5ghz network on? You can use open-source WiFi Analyzer on Android or your router"s dashboard (advanced settings?) to check
My go to
I suggest using a tool like Wi-Fi Analyzer to find clean 5Ghz channels, and switching your channel setting from auto. Also, set your bandwidth to 80Mhz, and consider that if another device is using the same 5Ghz SSID, you can have a prioritization issue between devices. More info here. Good luck!
Şuna bir göz atın: "Wifi Analyzer"
Your local network speeds are what matters not your internet. For Quest 2 you want a 802.11ac (WiFi5) rated to at least AC1200 speeds. Quest 2 supports WiFi6 (802.11ax) so that's even better if you have one.
It gets more complicated the more devices you have on your network. If you have a smart TV streaming Netflix while you play you want a faster router or a router dedicated for only PCVR. However, adding a second router can be tricky if have lots of close by neighbors who also have wifi to compete with.
If you post the make/model of your router it would help. Also, use a wifi analyzer (I use this one on my Android phone) to see how congested wifi is in your area. 5ghz channels tend to work best because they are the least at risk of congestion problems and aren't affected by like your microwave or other random electronics.
Have you set the routers to be on different channels? If they're on the same channel they are interfering with each other.
Set the wifi channels to 1, 6, or 11 and they should be different. You can use a Wifi Analyzer app to pick the most free channels. Don't pick other channels even though they look free-er. Just pick the most free between 1,6 or 11.
Download a WiFi scanner app on your phone and use that to scan your WiFi environment. WiFi Analyzer is my go to choice on Android.
Once you can see what your environment looks like choose the least congested channel from 1, 6 or 11. These channels do not overlap and will not cause interference with each other. All the other channels will interfere with their neighboring channels and should be avoided.
Ésta app te deja ver si hay redes de 5GHz (ojito > AP list) y ver qué canal es mejor para tu red, en base a qué tan congestionados están (ojito > Chanel rating). Capaz cambiándole el canal mejora algo
here is a decent question. how good is the signal strength to the router?
a huge number of things can impact ur speeds as posted previously even microwaves.
try switching the channels you are using within the 2.4ghz space I would walk you through it but I have my own router so it's going to be different and even my shaw modem is a older model. not the bluecurve( or sure what u have)
you can use apps like wifi analyzer on Android https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer to determine what is the least used channel.
I do agree however 1mbps is rather low
I would consider anywhere between 50-150mbps downloads to be ideally what you should get however don't quote me as I haven't used Shaw's routers in a long time.
for example a mts router I had gave me only 20mbps download which was considered "good"
That stutter is an artifact from ATW. When a frame doesn't get to the Quest in time to be displayed it reprojects the last good frame from your current position. It can perform rotations fine but movements result in that jutter affect.
Have you verifed there are no other routers are using the same or overlapping channel with a wifi analizyer?
What GPU are you using? Are you doing any supersampling? If so try reducing that as it can get you a couple extra miliseconds which can sometimes make the difference.
So there are apps that you can load onto your phone or onto your computer and for changing the Wifi Channel, you would have to access the onboard software of your router.
For your desktop/tower you can try 'inSSIDer' like u/redex93 suggested; if you have an Android phone you can try the app: Wifi analyzer - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
I see. What you have is a "Wireless Controller" setup, odd from Asus to call it mesh, very odd. Just a side note, use one SSID for all the bands (2.4, 5), if you want seamless band hoping. Having separate SSID's for each band is the most common misconfigured feature. It's completely understood if you actually prefer it that way for specific use, but overall it's a bad configuration.
Regarding Shield, is it the only device having issues on 5ghz? See if you can install a WiFi Analyzer on the Shield. Make sure you enable a feature to differentiate between MAC Address. That way, if it see's 3 SSID's with the same name, you can tell the "signal power" difference and their mac addresses. IT COULD BE that your shield for some reason is trying to connect with the furthest one. I know it sounds stupid, but Wireless Controller technology on Consumer Devices are...well, so far from my experience with them, SHIT.
Those bars are indicative and UI dependent.
Install Wifi Analizer or any app of your choice to get accurate data.
I have to tune it to this level. The default is 40 plus.
I have to adjust my wifi channel to a less populated channel. Using Android app WiFi Analyser
Tune the bitrate of VD steaming to 37Mbit, default setting causes my controller to lag.
If it's desktop my is 10ms to 17ms.
Maybe your neighbors wifi switched channels and is reducing the quality of your wifi signal? Get a wifi analyzer app for your phone and check the signal quality.
let's go in parts:
(1) the wifi device needs to be at the most central point for all your customers. this is usually in the center of the house.
(2) the wifi device needs to be at the HIGHEST point in relation to the floor. the lower, the more obstacles the wifi signal encounters as household furniture, and large concentrations of water as living beings, animals and people;
(3) WIFI channels are shared, and in densely populated regions, most channels are being used. in the case of 2.4 GHz networks, the indicated channels are 1, 6 or 11 (only). Use the channel with the fewest neighbors using it or the one that is busy but with the lowest power from the neighboring devices;
the program called "Wifi Analyzer" for android can help you discover the use of channels:
(4) the vast majority of current devices work on standard N networks, so WIFI B and G networks can be disabled in the configuration of your wifi router;
(5) 5 GHz networks are less common and therefore less congested. if your laptops and smartphones support 5 GHz, a wifi router with 5 GHz support and multiple antennas with MU-MIMO support can provide some advantage in navigation;
(6) decreasing the quality of viewing videos on youtube helps preserve navigation across the network. if you can watch videos in 720p or less instead of 4K the navigation is smoother;
(7) eventually hiring faster providers as well as purchasing more powerful network equipment can also help;
> I do know the 2.4GHz band and 5 GHz band have the exact same name
That can be the cause of dropped WiFi. It shouldn't, and there is a bug report working on it, but it is currently an issue. I recommend you follow my directions to set up two distinct SSID names. Most people do something creative like "MyWifi-2" and "MyWifi-5". Just add the -2 and -5 to your current name. Then pick one to connect to.
Do not set "autoconnect" on both, or you will be right back where you are now. I would set one as "preferred", and leave the other without the options selected. You will have to check the signal levels throughout your house to see if the 5GHz channel gives you full coverage - that signal is degraded when going through walls.
You can check on the actual WiFi channel assignments and problems by installing this app on your Android phone.
Wifi Analyzer - Apps on Google Play
I publish a quite thorough wifi troubleshooting post frequently. I recommend use of that app in the steps. Here is a recent copy --
Read through that post to learn more about assigning two SSID's, and channel issues.
Download something like this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US and show them the results.
If you have an android phone, you can use a wifi-analyzer app. This can help you find a better channel to use on the wifi, 2.4 vs 5GHz (2.4 has better range and wall penetration, but I find the microwave oven interferes XD), maybe a better spot in the room to get a good signal. When I was using wifi on my desktop, I had an external antenna with a long cord for placement. A hard line is ideal, but I saw that's not quite an option for you.
(I use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US)
Well, that's more tricky, you may not own them and just be out of luck.
Your cell phone PROBABLY can see the 5ghz spectrum. Try something like this and take a look at the congestion in your space.
I have to use this app A LOT as people setup their own wireless solutions without talking to IT first... raises all kinds of hell. :(
For IOS there is a problem: Apple, unlike Android, doesn't allow apps to access antenna's strength signal and channels, so I deem them superficial even futile for our purpose. Don't be duped with ping times. But they serve you with other info: Choose here
I use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
If you intend to play multiplayer games the Quest doesn't need internet access when you use Virtual Desktop only the PC does. The router just needs to connect to the PC and the Quest talks to the PC.
If you don't have two ethernet ports on your PC or you want your Quest to have internet access without having to switch wifi connections just disconnect the ethernet from the PC and plug it into the new router. Not the "internet" port but just one of the regular ethernet ports. Then plug the PC into another ethernet port on new router. Again just a regular ethernet port not internet port.
Then set the new router to "Access Point" mode instead of a "Router" mode. If your router doesn't have this mode option you manually do it by disabling NAT, DHCP server, QOS servers, etc. I'm betting it does have the quick setting option as most modern routers do.
Then your original router/modem will be responsible for assiging IPs to the devices on connected to both routers. You Quest will connect to the new router but have an IP/gateway assigned by the original router and thus still have internet access. It is also on the same subnet as your PC so Virtual Desktop works as well.
Oh and lastly make sure neither router is using the same channel (or any neighbors routers too) so you have an optimal signal. Use a wifi analyzer to ensure no overlap and a strong signal.
Have you used a wifi analizer to ensure the channel your router is using it's being interfered with by other wifi routers? Are you using an 80mhz channel to ensure Quest is taking full advantage of it's wifi bandwidth? It's also possible that where you physically place your router in the room is causing problems. Try moving it around to see if it helps improve performance.
Also, if other devices are using the router at the same time it could affect the stability of your VD session. Often the best way to ensure good performance is to setup a dedicated router for just VD use.
It's also possible your router is just not good enough for VD even if it's the Quest is the only wifi device currently in use.
I personally have a dedicated router for VD (TP-Link Archer C1200) and it's pretty good. It's definitely not stutter free like Link but I think it's good enough that you generally don't notice it unless you are actively looking for it.
There are two frequencies which routers will run, 2.4GHz and 5GHz. 2.4GHz has higher range but lower speeds, while 5GHz has lower range but higher speeds. Ideally for mirroring you want to use 5GHz.
Do you know what model the router is? If not, you can check with your phone if your router has 2.4GHz and/or 5GHz, this app will also tell you which one your phone is currently using: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_GB
If you have an Android phone, try installing WiFi Analyzer. It's possible one of your neighbours is using a WiFi channel that is interfering with your own. This app will show you WiFi channels, and their signal strengths, that are in use nearby so that you can select a channel that is less busy.
If that does not fix your problem, try relocating the router. If you still have problems after that, get a replacement router. You can put the SR808ac in bridge mode and add a router so that it will still act as a modem (which is required to access the service) but all WiFi and routing duties will be handled by the added router instead.
Try moving your Mi Box to a different location. Preferably higher up.
Test your wifi with a phone with this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
Anything above 65-70dBm will give you trouble.
This is a common issue.
Bluetooth can interfere with WiFi, when the WiFi is using one of the 2.4 GHz channels.
WiFi should only be on channels 1, 6, or 11. If your router, or a neighbor's, is on one of the other channels, there can be unexpected interference problems.
You can use the Play Store app, WiFi Analyzer, by farproc, to check your local WiFi environment.
Wifi Analyzer - Apps on Google Play
If that is not the problem, there could be a hardware issue in your Chromebook, or the headphones.
Get a wifi analyzer and make sure your router isn't on the same/overlapping channel as another nearby router.
Does it improve if you lower the bitrate?
I'm not sure how much Windows allows you to modify these settings, bet try setting a different channel and channel width. Confirm the stick is using the same channel on your PC and notebook: check with Wifi analyzer app
I think you would have more response on Oculus forums, as you confirmed the wifi hotspot can reach max speed, but not with the Quest.
My first thought would be wireless interference. There is an app called Wi-Fi analyzer that you can install on your phone and it'll check the Wi-Fi channels to see how many different access points are using the same channels. If you can try to use only 5G as it is less susceptible to interference.
Do you have access to the router control panel/settings/UI?
I'd suggest installing WiFi Analyzer to see if the wifi channel you're using is too crowded. If so, just move it to a different channel.
Se voce tiver Android baixa o Wifi Analyzer pra vasculhar os pontos cegos de sinal. Nem precisa estar logado na rede.
Packet loss is sort of inevitable when using Wifi, though you can try and mitigate it by being mindful of conditions affecting your connection. I feel your first step for troubleshooting should be to determine whether it's a wifi issue or an issue with your internet connection. So plug in a laptop or desktop PC via Ethernet to your main router and visit https://packetlosstest.com/ and run a couple of tests. If you get a lot of packet loss even when wired you'll have to contact your ISP. If you get little or no packet loss with Ethernet then the issue is your Wifi.
Extenders can be tricky since if they are not positioned well they can end up repeating a signal that's poor to begin with. How's packet loss when plugged to your main modem / router compared to the extender? How much interference are you getting from your neighbors' devices? Use Wifi Analyzerto determine how much noise you're getting from nearby routers. This can be a real problem in appartment buildings with thin walls.
If it's a lot, how much is packet loss impacted as you move away from your main router? You might have to switch to the 5GHz band to mitigate that, but keep in mind that while the 5GHz will result in more channels for your wifi to work with (thus less interference) it's also worse at penetrating walls.
Lastly, use wifi Analyzer to figure out where to best position your repeater. Often, it's logistically challenging to place a repeater in just the right place (the 'sweet spot') so that they repeat a strong signal AND are able to repeat that signal to where you need it to be repeated, and it's better just to use an Ethernet cable and plug a router to it to create a different access point.
Ok first thing is to work on the CCU to get the wired connection the best.
You need to disconnect all devices from your network except CCU. Then turn off all WiFi devices. Manually find the best channel you can get with this app or any app you prefer
Make sure to use 5GHz WiFi for controller once you get all other devices off WiFi except Stadia controller. Then see how it does. You can check your router MAC table to see if any rogue devices are on your network that you forgot about.
Make sure your TV is set to 60Hz not 50Hz. Put it in game mode and turn off smoothing.
Did you turn off the WiFi on your ISP router if you have one.
I dont know your app, but i sometimes have to find rogue accespoints and i use this:https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=da
It has the ability to monitor single BSSID and display signalstrength (audiovisual) so i can walk around and hear when im getting close.
Se if your app has something similar. When you are sure in what part of the room it is, its time to pull power from stuff.
And remember to check drop ceilings, found stuff there more than once.
Maybe there is another interfering network in channel 36. If you have an Android device, you can use an app like this to see what is on various channels at your location:
I don't use channel 36 at my house because my stupid Rokus throw up all over it to talk to their remotes, and there is apparently no way to control that on a hardwired Roku according to Roku support (except by disconnecting your remote and turning off device connect, which makes for a not very useful Roku).
All USB communication is handled by the 5ghz wifi. If you have a crappy signal you'll experience increased packet loss which can result in tracking loss/gray flashes. Lots of routers are set to "auto" for the channel so they switch from time to time. Most likely you had a dedicated channel when it was working correctly and then a neighbor router switched to the same (or overlapping) channel as your TPCast router resulting in poor performance.
Get yourself a wifi analyzer and make sure your router has it's own channel.
You might also want to read the OpenTCPast optimizing router settings document.
Get a wifi analyizer and make sure no other router is using the same channel or is overlapping with yours.
Rule #1: never post about WiFi issues without giving the model name of your WiFi router... ;-)
Fact of the matter: older routers will sometimes have issues with brand-new WiFi standards and clients. WiFi is not an exact science.
Chances are your wifi signal is poor. Make sure your router isn't competing for bandwidth with other nearby wifi access points using a wifi analyzer tool.
You can try using this. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_SG
To find out how congested your wifi airspace is. Then find a 'blank spot' and get your router to transmit in that channel.
Usa o Wifi Analyzer no Android pra voce poder analizar os dados de sinal em qualquer ponto da casa (e não precisa estar logado na rede).
Running ethernet for all your devices is the ideal solution.
Powerline adaptors are decent, but not great
Don't use a repeater if you can avoid it. People will recommend these, but it's a bit like yelling in a crowded room. You start yelling, others will too... Much easier if everyone whispers.
Grab wifi analyser, you'll likely see that there's a bunch of overlapping 2.4 GHz networks. If you can, login to your router and change your channel to one with less other people.
Make sure your router isn't on the same (or overlapping) channel as neighbors router as it will cause packet loss and additional latency. Get a wifi analyzer app for your phone to find the best channel to use.
At 50ms I suspect this is what's going on as typically you should expect VD to report between 20-30ms under ideal conditions.
I have a perfect experience with Ethernet and Movistar 600 Mbps
Meanwhile, try to set your router to a less used channel, it is probably set to auto right now. You can use something like this to get a picture of the Wi Fi signal in your surroundings (como el metro en hora punta, probablemente):
If you've got an Android device, try Wifi Analyzer. For Windows, there's InSSIDer. Unfortunately, Apple doesn't allow the sort of access to the wifi chip that apps would need to get this data.
If you've got an Android device, try Wifi Analyzer ( https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US ). For Windows, there's InSSIDer ( https://www.metageek.com/products/inssider/ ). Unfortunately, Apple doesn't allow the sort of access to the wifi chip that apps would need to get this data.
If you have android, download a WiFi analysis tool. Link to the one I use.
Walk around you home and see what channel seems best overall. Then manually set that in your router. The problem with the auto detection built into the router is that it only detects what is best where it is located. 80% of the routers around me are all on channel 6 because they are far enough apart to not see channel 6 as congested, but as soon as you move away from the router, you can't get any throughput.
Same. Is ur phone Android? If so, get an app called WiFi analyzer (free)
Let me know when installed
for channel width 80hz gives you the most bandwidth to work with but you might get better results with 40hz.
If you mean picking the proper channel then you'll want to use a wifi analyzer to make sure the channels you pick doesn't overlap with your neighbors.
Try adjusting the bitrate and see if it goes down. Are you using a 5ghz or 2.4ghz? How many channels? 20/40/80?
Did you ensure that the channel(s) you are using are not overlapping with a nearby router? Use a wifi analyzer app to find out.
a modem's channel numbers are defined by two codes:
(a) the official standard and (b) local laws;
it is best to be economical and use the fewest channels to avoid signal pollution, which compromises speed for you and your neighbors.
in general, for 2.4 Ghz networks it is recommended to use only channel 1, 6 or 11, and avoid using intermediate values, as they harm more than one channel at the same time.
in general, use the channel that exists least used and with the weakest signal in relation to the use of your neighbors' devices. place it in a centralized location in the house, and in an elevated location to avoid blocking the signal by people and objects.
you can monitor the use of channels with free programs for android like "Wifi Analyzer"
for more info, read:
The Ars Technica semi-scientific guide to Wi-Fi Access Point placement
Or, if you have an android phone you can use wifi analyzer.
latest in the UI or latest on their website. For some reason in the UI, my firmware was up to date, but when I went into their site, I discovered it was not and the "latest" firmware I was using in the UI would not get me to the real latest firmware, so I had to manually download and install it.
As to you picture. it really does not tell me much. I dont know what other channels are in your area, I have no idea if the walls are metal lath or just sheetrock. You really need to use a wifi analyzer app. It will tell you signal strength as well as what channels have the least cross traffic that could be causing congestion. this is my favorite on android, I assume IOS has something similar https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
Hey you go my dude.
As I sit here on my iPhone that doesn’t have such apps.
> I am standing directly next to my 5GHz router, so bandwidth cannot be the problem.
It isn't nearly that simple. You can be inches from the router and still have a poor signal.
Make sure there are no other devices using the same frequency nearby by using a wifi analyzing tool. If your neighbor has a router on the same channel (or overlapping channel) then you're going to have significantly more latency in every packet.
If you have other devices connected to your router they could be forcing compatibility modes to be used which may result in lowering your max theoretical bandwidth.
Routers don't have to treat all packets as equal and can give priority to other devices. It's very possible your router is given VD packets lower priority. Routers often have "intelligence" (sometimes enabled by default without you knowing) that will try and boost performance for devices and uses cases it recognizes at the expense of others. So it might see your smart TV connected and give it higher priority over your Quest because it recognizes Netflix traffic but doesn't know what Virtual Desktop traffic looks like.
Verify there are no other routers nearby using the same (or overlapping) channel. You can do it with a wifi analyzer app.
When you say jankyness what specifically do you mean? What settings are you using with Virtual Desktop? Specifically what bitrate setting?
Do you have a lot of neighbors with 5ghz routers? The most common problem I've seen is another nearby router on the same (or overlapping) channel. When running 80mhz you are using multiple channels where 40mhz uses half as many. Obviously with 40mhz you lower your max bandwidth but sometimes a quality signal is better than a high bandwidth one.
A wifi analyzer tool can help you verify just how congested your network might be.
Checkout this wifi analyzer. I've used it to find optimal wifi channels (auto isn't always great) and signal strength in different parts of my house.
I assume your network is 5ghz?
Te diría que si. Pero si mandas un repetidor wifi en el medio, estás haciendo una ensalada de señales que andá a saber como te va a andar.
Telecentro ----> Repetidor Wifi ----> Cliente todo por wifi, es medio quilombo. Esto es una casa o un depto? Si te bajas algo onda https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=es_AR para el cel o PC, que tan gestionado ves todo? (tanto en 2.4ghz como 5ghz)
Si al menos podés ir del router de telecentro a un repetidor cableado, podría mejorar bastante.
If you live in a densely populated area, this is very likely due to WiFi congestion. If you have an android phone or Windows Laptop:
(Instructions based on Android version of the app, so Windows might be slightly different.)
> i can't connect a LAN cable because there's no place for it
If you mean there isn't enough ports, then you can buy very cheap extension boxes like this one. Always play on wired connections if possible. Wired is faster and more reliable than wireless.
I would also recommend you download a speed test app. I recommend Fast.com because it is to the point and with no bullshit like ads or annoying graphics.
Test your speed and see if it is the same or very close to the advertised speed you should be getting. Then use a wifi analyzer app to see if your wifi console is getting a good signal or if it is too far. The further you get from the router, the worse the signal is.
Almost all modems/routers have a LAN port. I recommend the first thing I said which is to get an extension box (very cheap) and a couple of ethernet cables and hook your console directly with a cable. Any main internet device should be hooked directly to an ethernet cable like a console, PC and smart TV.
There are various apps that use your computer or phone to tell you what WiFi networks are active.
One for Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
One for Windows: https://www.cambiumnetworks.com/products/software/free-tools/
You can see what other WiFi networks are active at your site, and what channels they are using. Then you can make sure that your network is not on the same spectrum.
I have the same results and it boiled down to a few steps:
Use 5ghz Band set to 40mhz Bandwidth.
Set the Channel to one that is the least used / best circumstances you can get by using a Wifi Analyzer on your Phone. App I use.
Remove all other devices from the 5ghz band, personally I wanted the Quest to have all the traffic.
I did have to go a bit extra, buying a new router for future proofing. But that was because my current routers were both having very odd drops that I just couldn't fix with the above. But really the above steps are all you need to do, outside of maybe fiddling with some settings inside of VD.
You could use something like "Wifi Analyzer" on Android to see if there are any less used channels. But usually it's bit hopeless when talking about 2.4Ghz band in crowded area.
The lamp and being connected in the socket is not very likely to cause any problems.
However the TV is an entirely different story, it may very well cause some interference with the signal from the router so it'd be advisable to move it.
For that distance 5 GHz would be recommended. Was mostly going to suggest trying 2.4 GHz if you had further distance from the router or some thick concrete walls in the way.
You could also have a look at how the signal strength at the computers location is looking with a wifi analyzer. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
I was almost hoping it'd just be a simple problem with the conditions but from what I can tell other than the router being behind the TV it all sounds fine.
To get an indication of where the problem starts, running winMTR for a while (preferably while the network isn't under load) could perhaps generate some useful information.
If you prefer you can censor the IP-addresses since they could to some extent be used to determine your location and other things but unless you're feeling very private and don't even want to potentially reveal what country you're in it'd be enough to censor the first 3 jumps. Windows firewall may cause some trouble with functionality, in that case you'd need to allow the app in the firewall.
Run it to a stable source like google DNS servers, that being entering 22.214.171.124 in the host window.
You may need to temporarily disable your computers firewall if it's interfering and giving you "no response from host" on all jumps except for the last. Otherwise it'd only generate data about the connection to the host and not where on the way there the issues arise. Beware that disabling your firewall is a security risk but for a short test the risks are negligible.
Otherwise there's another tool called pingplotter that does the same but has some fancy graphs but costs money. But it does have a 14 day free trial last time I looked.
And on a final note since I'm recommending some random software you probably never heard about you can always use this tool to scan files and links before opening anything when in doubt. VirusTotal It simply uses multiple anti-malware engines to scan the file or link in question.
I use this one https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Wifi networks shouldnt partly overlap, if they do they will interfere..........if all wifi networks are set up properly they all should be on channel 1, 6, &11 to not interfere
So the channel with less interference is the channel you want to see your router to use.....check the interference at the device location not the router/AP location
I use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
If you are in a busy area (lot of flats) use a wifi analyser app to see what channel everyone is on and not on (4 usually seems more empty as everyone fights over 1 and 6). go into the wifi settings in the router and own that channel by hard coding it (only works if others in the area don't know to do this and leave it on "pick best" which causes all the routers to hop around constantly, but they will avoid ch4 which is now yours.
yes it is a bit of game theory and maybe not in the best for evreyone...bite me.
I use an app on my Android phone
It shows you in graphical form how many routers are occupying each channel. It's pretty nice, and free of I remember correctly.
You should be able to locate it using a signal strength app, e.g. Wifi Analyzer.
La penalización es en "gastos de instalación" si es que no la pagaste en un inicio.
Asumiré que tú problema es por WiFi. Estuve en una situación similar y el problema lo resolví poniendo otro "WiFi". Si puedes comprar otro, te recomiendo el Google Wifi por qué son muy muy fáciles de usar, puedes extender el WiFi a más área de ser necesario y tienes soporte primer mundista de Google.
Google WiFi system, 1-Pack - Router replacement for whole home coverage - NLS-1304-25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDJ0HVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y.JdEbKQKCX2J
Si no tienes presupuesto para un Google Wifi, podemos tratar de mejorar tu situación entrando al módem de Telmex. Desactiva la banda 2.4Ghz para forzar la de 5ghz que usualmente sufre de menos interferencia y mejor velocidad.
Si quieres puntos extras, bajate esta app:
Revisa que tan ocupados están los canales y migrate al que veas mejor.
Si tienes dudas, me respondes a este mensaje. Si se te hace muy engorroso migrate a cable.
How far away is it? Is there anything structural in between the controller and the nest wifi?
You have to think of wifi as a lantern. Structural things like steel beams, even metal doors cast a shadow.
How busy is the channel spectrum near you? Use an app like farproc's wifi analyzer to see how much other wifi is near you.
For the 2.4GHz WiFi band, those are defined by the WiFi standards for the US. All other channels overlap adjacent channels and will cause interference problems.
I use the app "WiFi analyzer" to check for channel interference issues.
Some other countries also allow channels 12-14, but Chromebooks made for the US will not work on them at all. If you are using a 2.4 GHz WiFi channel, you could also be getting interference from a neighbor's router that is on an improper channel. You can have multiple routers on the same channel - that does not cause nearly as much issue as one of the overlapping channels.
The 5 GHz band used by dual-band routers, has completely different channel assignments, and they typically do not interfere with Bluetooth.
There are hundreds of websites that explain the details of WiFi. This one seems pretty decent for an overview of the issue
Try a different WiFi channel.
Get this app and check for other WiFi networks in your area, while keeping an eye on what channel is used the most. Then simply configure the opposite.
It also helps if you connect to 5GHz WiFi at home (if available).
> So just because YOU experienced 5ghz in a room that 2.4Ghz didn't work in, please don't pass that information along like it is accurate and you understand what in the fuck you are talking about.
I don't know what to tell you then...
It's been my real world experience in every place I've lived in (an apartment and two houses), with the 3 different routers I've tried (a TP-Link, a Netgear, and one provided through my ISP), with all the devices I've tried (Galaxy S6, Galaxy S9, an iPhone 6(?), an iPhone 10, two tablets, and a Samsung TV) the 5GHz was the only thing that actually worked consistently (if at all) in nearly every room.
Sure, in some instances it just comes down to the device itself.
For example, some (like the old tablets, and the iPhone 10) are admittedly are just troublesome unless in the same room and have problems being more than 10-15' away from the router through a wall. While my S6/S9 typically gets a strong signal on both bands in most rooms.
The Samsung TV works OK across the house on a 2.4GHz signal, but will have buffering issues time to time - regardless of bitrate. Switching it to the 5GHz band has completely resolved the issue. And this result is 'mirrored' by the signal strength both in the wifi connection screen of the TV and phones, as well as the Wifi Analyzer app (and Classic version) I use.
And speaking of "understand[ing] what in the fuck you are talking about"...
> 2Ghz will not bounce
Ok, so I guess you can deal with Frontier later; but you should really find out what your paying $100 a month for.
How about the other stuff I suggested:"
Next do you have any idea as to how your 2 network devices are configured? Because your Netgear DSL modem is also a Wifi router; so technically you don't need the 2nd Wifi router.
And if either device is configured incorrectly then that could be the cause of your connection problems.
And in regards to Wifi Signal; the materials that your home is constructed of are Wifi signal killers and the more floors or walls that are between your devices and your Wifi router is going to limit your access.
Then next thing that could be affecting your Wifi speeds could be your neighbors and their Wifi networks, I would recommend installing a Wifi signal analyzing program/app to inspect your location for competing Wifi Networks; for Android devices I like: Wifi Analyzer ( https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US )
We then need to figure out for sure what speeds you are actually getting from your provider. The best way to test this is to connect a computer directly to the modem/router with an Ethernet cable and run online browser speedtests, then once you're satisfied your getting the speeds your paying for is when you should start troubleshooting your Wifi connections and Wifi speeds."
So it would be really helpful to know what that $100 per month is supposed to be for. You should be able to look at a past billing statement, etc.
Next do you have any idea as to how your 2 network devices are configured? Because your Netgear DSL modem is also a Wifi router; so technically you don't need the 2nd Wifi router.
And in regards to Wifi Signal; the materials that your home is constructed of are Wifi signal killers and the more floors or walls that are between your devices and your Wifi router is going to limit your access.
Then next thing that could be affecting your Wifi speeds could be your neighbors and their Wifi networks, I would recommend installing a Wifi signal analyzing program/app to inspect your location for competing Wifi Networks; for Android devices I like: Wifi Analyzer ( https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US )
We then need to figure out for sure what speeds you are actually getting from your provider. The best way to test this is to connect a computer directly to the modem/router with an Ethernet cable and run online browser speedtests, then once you're satisfied your getting the speeds your paying for is when you should start troubleshooting your Wifi connections and Wifi speeds.
Change the WiFi channel on the router to a less congested one.
Use this app to find less congested WiFi channels: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Are you using Wifi?
Have you used a WiFi scanner to see what channel your on, and if 20 other people are also on the same channel as you?
The more people sharing the same channel, the slower your wifi will go.
Use that or an IOS equivalent. If you can see your wifi showing the same color / position as 4+ others it would be worthwhile looking to see which channel is not being used, then calling your ISP and getting them to walk you through how to change it on your router.
WiFi Analyzer dovrebbe essere in grado di rilevare gli ssid nascosti. Dovresti provare perché è passato un po di tempo dall'ultima volta che l'ho provato
I'm an IT guy. Both of them can help diagnose wifi and general internet issues with my phone.
Wifi analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_CA
This one lets you see the channel that your SSID is broadcasting on and the channel all other SSID's in range are using. you can find an empty air space and set your router to that channel and expierence bettwe wifi. Also, you can walk around a building with wifi analyzer running to see the signal your phone gets in different rooms, and in different parts of the room.
Terminal emulator: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jackpal.androidterm&hl=en_CA
I don't use this one to it's full potential (or maybe i do, idk) but i basically just use it for the ping command. wifi spotty? ping google and see. strange network issues? ping the local server. ifconfig is another great command, same as ipconfig on windows computers.
First thing to figure out, is to see how much Wifi signal you're getting in the room where your new computer is setup?
There are apps that you can use to check for this.
Then once you know how much signal your going to have to work with, then you will know what kind of a connection your going to have for your computer.
And as an alternative to a mediocre wifi signal for a gaming computer you should really look into some sort of direct, hardwired network connection.
Now there is your basic Ethernet cabling connection, that would require you to run an Ethernet cable from your modem/Wifi router to your computer.
Then there is the MoCa/Ethernet alternative, but this requires that there be Coax TV cable near the modem/Wifi router and new computer locations: https://www.actiontec.com/wifihelp/guide-to-moca/
Then there is the Powerline option, but this is a 'hit or miss' solution and is basically 1 step above Wifi for networking connectivity.
To see if this is potentially caused by wifi interference from other WLANs using the same channel as your AP, you can use your phone. If you have an android phone, try this:
I am not sure if the same app is available on iOS, but there is probably something comparable if not.
If you open the channel graph, it should show you which channels are in use by which SSIDs. Find the one that your AP is using, and see if there are other networks in the same band that are close to or higher than the signal strength from your AP. If there are, then maybe move to a different SSID. It is possible that when you reboot, if you have your AP set to pick a channel by itself ("auto"), it is just making it pick a better channel. And if your neighbors have their APs set to do the same thing, then maybe the nosedive in bandwidth coincides with their APs switching channels.
Or maybe it is totally unrelated to RF interference, and there is something wrong with your router.
Unfortunately given your living situation, the 2.4ghz channels are going to be a problem.
But in the attempt to mitigate the problems you will need to change your router to only use one of the 3 non-overlapping channels (1 - 6 - 11) and if possible see if one of those channels is the least used in your building; check for 'Wifi Analyser' apps to help scan for used channels, etc. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
Best chance, worked for me when I wanted to connect to 5ghz network which didn't show up as it had same said with 2.4ghz
I switched 5ghz to channel 165 no problems since. if you look at the picture ( https://i.imgur.com/yy9rlwE.jpg ) I will try to post, you will see about 20-30 5ghz routers at about channel 155 (and a another 20-30 at channel 42 at the top). app used was wifi analyzer ( https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en )
check your area and change channels.
I'd go around with something like this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer and see if where the dead spots or things that are creating interference.
Try running the Wifi Analyzer app on one of your Android devices. Can you see your router on the lower channels? Can you see other routers on the low channels?
Do you have keep wifi on during sleep ON & Battery Optimization disabled ?
use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer choose a less crowded channel & check your router's connections limit
draw a map of you home, then if you have an android phone , use this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
see where the dead zone are the worst before and after you place your satellites.
does it happen when you are super close to the wifi and have only one device one? also sometimes bandwidth saving setting can mess up like Qos/wmm so try them off and see also you can be having interference from other devices and other neighbors wifi you can download a app like this and scan and see if your wifi is on a crowded channel /the best channel and other info also
most of those settings are usually hidden in normal routers you would need custom firmware what you cant really do with the xfi your best best is make sure you are on the best channel and have the router set in a good spot away from phones and other signals you can use apps like this one to see info whats the best channel and other info
Check if the firestick wifi has a good+ wifi connection. Note that the 5GB channel is fast but short range. Use this app.
It's recommended that the Synology has a static IP.
In Kodi connect to a new source using the above IP: nfs://192.198.xxx.yyy/volume1/sharedfolder - (you may need a keyboard ;-)
Update to Kodi 18.4 - lotsa small meliorations. Uninstall current version if you must.
(Install Downloader on FireSick, goto kodi.tv and navigate to download, Android, Arm7a 32-bit)
Try hard, because NFS is a *lot* faster than smb.
I tried using Fing on my iPhone and didn’t see any relevant options yesterday. I do have an older android I could try.
Is it this app specifically that you’d recommend?
If you've got Android try wifi analyzer. It is free and once you know the BSSID you can pick go find it by signal strength. It is no fluke, but it should get you there.
Edit: added link
move closer to the router & try this if ur on windows https://www.drivereasy.com/knowledge/wifi-keeps-disconnecting-or-dropping-out-on-windows-10-solved/ step 1 & 2 only, if you have an android find a less crowded channel play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
I am using the YouTube TV App now watching Epix On Demand and I am having no issues. I would suspect a bad connection. I would recommend using this android app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en to make sure you are using a good wifi channel that is not being used by multiple people.
make sure you have the latest drivers/software for both your wifi card and the router and see also how is the signal strength you can test with apps on your phone and see wifi signal and info and if you are on the best uncrowned signal in your area also your router might be too far away from pc and has to go thorough walls and other stuff to get to your pc
here is a app for android or if you have iphone they might have the same or close to this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
7 years old, probably starting to go bad then and most likely already have the latest firmware.
Should be possible to update firmware from the routers interface. Usually under "admin" or advanced setup somewhere.
There's a bunch of wifi analyzers in the app store ex. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=sv then you can see what bands have the most interference and under wireless settings in the router you can see "channel" as well as "bandwidth".
I'd probably get a new better router in this case and convert that old one to an access point, it's quite easy. Basically pull an Ethernet cable from the new router to the old one and you can use that for either multiple wireless networks or simply to extend the range. I can help you more on the "how" later if you chose that path.
Are you connecting with Wifi? Interference? I use this to get placement correct: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_GB
Use the 5GHz band instead of the 2.4GHz band if at all possible.
Check your WiFi channels with an app like WiFi Analyzer, and change your channel to the least congested one.
My roommate had one on his phone that he used at one point, wanted to make sure my room had proper signal and it showed the actual locations. He is asleep right now, I'll have to see if I can catch him while he is awake.
I did find a mobile app that will show the signal strength of connected devices (basically the further out the device is, the weaker the signal) so you can at least have a good idea how far they are from your home. It also shows you the device information, including model in a lot of cases.
Apparently Fing is also highly recommended for security, and has additional options including a purchasable piece of hardware that helps with your network security. It has high reviews, but I have not tested it.
> Are you absolutely sure that it's YOUR modem broadcasting the hotspots and not a neighbor's modem?
Good question, and I'm absolutely sure.
> I do not see the gateway's wifi networks when I look for networks though
I'm using Matt Hafner's Wifi Analyzer on Windows and farproc's Wifi Analyzer on Android. They can both show networks that the normal connect-to-Wi-Fi interfaces might not.
10 years? probably not
apps like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en can show the SSIDs that are 2.4 and 5Ghz on a separated list.
but searching for the router name or acessing the configuration webpage you can easely find it.
also if you can read the norm "802.11" on some sticker on the router , you can find out
802.11ac > 5 GHz (and probably 2.4Ghz)
802.11g > 2.4 GHz
802.11n > 2.4 GHz
802.11b > 2.4 GHz
are you on 5Ghz or 2.4Ghz?
how congested is the wifi in your area? use an app like Wifi Analyser post screen shots
On the topic of channels, apps like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en can show how congested channels in your room are.
Do you live in an apartment complex or just have lots of wireless routers in your area? It's possible your not using an optimal channel and are getting lots of packet loss. Get yourself a wifi anaylzer app and ensure you're on a good channel.
just kidding here try this app and lets see how strong that wifi signal actually is
Sounds like you’re running primarily Apple devices like me, but I do have an unlocked Samsung A6+ that I downloaded this app onto:
There’s not an equivalent for measuring signal strength and signal interference available in the App Store. I use it to continually check my network for optimal channel selection and AP placement in relation to competing signal interference.
There are many potential causes with wifi.
How close are you to your wifi router/ access point?
Can you see other SSIDs when you are searching for your wifi network? If there are any other networks using the same channel (or nearby channels on the 2.4ghz band) you can have seemingly random issues. You can use an app to view which channels are being used in your vicinity. If you have an android device you can use this app or if you have a macOS device here is another.
If it works well in some places, and bad in others, it must be the wifi setup at those places. Regarding the bad wifi places-
Can you see other SSIDs when you are searching for your wifi network? If there are any other networks using the same channel as yours (or even nearby channels on the 2.4ghz band) you can have seemingly random issues that are dependent on network usage of anyone around.
If you're curious, you could use an app to view which channels are being used in your vicinity.
If you're hell bent on using wifi, ruleout interference
How many wireless networks can you see and what channels are they using.
5GHz should give you more channel options.
If you've got an iPhone then find a family member or a friend who has Android because Apple don't expose the API to do what wifi analyzer does. I don't know of a windows comparable utility off the time of my head but Google is your friend.
OpenTPCast might help I'm betting the problem is there are other nearby routers using the same (or overlapping) channels which reduces the quality of your signal. Since the USB data goes over wifi (tracking being part of that) you are dropping packets and getting tracking loss.
Get yourself a wifi analyzer tool and check to see if there are any other wireless routers on the 5ghz spectrum are overlapping with your own. If they are pick a new channel that is open and chances are this will fix your issue.
It is also possible the video transmitter being directly overhead is not actually the optimal position and is producing the gray screens too. How high is your ceiling? If the wifi router channel doesn't fix your issue I'd experiment with placing the transmitter in other spots. When I cover the transmitter or receiver I see a reduction in image quality and when I cover it completely my screen cuts to black. However, I've heard other people say they get a gray screen like tracking loss so it's possible it could the video transmitter and not the wifi/USB part.
I personally have mine on the wall between my two base stations just a tiny bit over my head with a slight downward angle. That being said I experimented with it in all sorts of spots and got pretty surprising results. Just putting it on the floor pointing straight by a wall actually was quite a bit better than mounting it right next to one of the basestations which is the official recommendation.
Wifi analysers theres plenty on google play store. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en&referrer=utm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dorganic%26utm_term%3Dwifi+analyzer&pcampaignid=APPU_1_JyTMXLPMLJO0vwTNm7FY
Încearcă si cu o cutie de bere tăiată pe lungime. Testează cu Wifi Analyzer
Wifi extenders are great for tough spots or to extend in large houses/yards. However, keep in mind that they'll essentially cut your throughput speeds in half. I have my Quantum router setup with 2.4 and 5 sharing a name. Devices can hop between wifi networks if they're outside of the 5 range and (I want to believe) it helps with congestion.
As far as adjusting the channel. It's super simple. Find a good Wifi Analyzer app for your phone. Move around your space and find a nice channel where there are the fewest neighboring networks. Note that channel and make the change by logging into your router and changing the channel. This can be done for both 2.4 and 5. The app I use is this one (Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
Sorry to hear that. Does it happen when the phone's near the router? Does it happen if you connect to WiFi at a restaurant or coffee shop?
One thing to try: Download WiFi Analyzer and see what other signals you have there. Maybe someone nearby has a new router and is interfering with your network.
Most apartment buildings these days are filled to the brim with access points. 7/10 times you can go to a different channel and somewhat alleviate this problem.
I use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en on my android phone to litterally check around the house. On the bottom row you can see the channels, go check is one of them is filled to the brim, most likely they ALL filled to the brim. Worth a shot anyway.
Hiding the SSID to make it a hidden / not-announced network is pretty standard on all router settings. You'd probably want to do that anyway to avoid any fellow students who might be "studying" hacking.
To avoid interfering, you would first use something like Wifi Analyzer to see what channels the networks in your vicinity are using (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer) Then you can set your own to a channel that doesn't overlap (or overlaps the least).
Since the CB+ supports it, you'd probably get the best results with a network on the 5ghz band which should be less crowded.
>Das "durchschleifen" machen Switches, sehr viele Router und Wlan Access Points haben einen integriert. Zwei einzelne Geräte kaufen lohnt sich für deine Situation nicht.
>Was für eine IP kriegt dein PC aus der benannten Dose? Schon eine in einem privaten Addressbereich z.B. 192.168.xxx.xxx oder 10.xxx.xxx.xxx? Dann würde ich sagen du hängst einfach nur so in einem normalen Hausnetz mit DHCP. In dem Fall brauchst du eigentlich keinen Router sondern nur den Access Point. Wie ist es mit Geräten die in deinem Behelfswlan hängen, kriegen die Addressen im selben Netz?
Die IP, die ich (offiziell) einstellen muss, ist von der Form 192.168.xxx.xxx, genauso wie Gateway und DNS-Server (letztere haben dieselbe IP). Ich bin mir nicht mehr sicher, wie viel ich davon fest einstellen muss, und wie viel ich davon einstellen soll, aber so sieht es bei mir im Moment aus.
>Probier einfach mal dein script mit "bridged" statt mit "NATed", wenns immernoch klappt wäre das dann der Beweis dass du keinen NAT-fähigen Router brauchst.
Ich habe es gerade ausprobiert: https://www.reddit.com/r/de_EDV/comments/ba876l/suche_wlanrouteraccess_pointetc_f%C3%BCr_wlan_in/ekc1jv7/
Soll ich nochmal überprüfen, was im NAT-Modus so für IPs verteilt werden?
>Ausserdem würde ich noch sagen achte darauf dass der Access Point den du kaufst ein dual band Gerät ist. Meiner Erfahrung nach ist das 2.4 GHz Funkspektrum in Studentenwohnheimen völlig überladen. Im 5 GHz Spektrum ist meistens ein bisschen mehr Luft.
Das kann ich leider bestätigen. Ich habe diese App hier mal eben angeworfen, und „überladen“ ist noch nett ausgedrückt…
I like one (of many) called WiFi Analyzer.
I am a fan of this Asus Router with this APC backup power supply.
If you have an android phone check out how crowded your Wifi is with Wifi Analyzer. Sorry IOS does not have any Wifi Analyzer apps.
You should download a wifi analyzer app like Wifi Analyzer and see which channels are being used. Post your results and we will be more suited to help you out.
Maybe it's because you're in the bathroom with a closed door?
Maybe it's electrical noise from your water heater?
Try to remove variables. Run a cold water shower & keep the door open. How much difference do those make?
You might want to run a detailed wifi analyzer app to watch signal strength. I've used this one for years and it's solid.
play with the channels, and try just changing the height at what the wifi things sit. sometimes that makes all the difference.
also, if you have an android phone, try https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
probably something similar for iphones.
to figure where the signal the best.
My bet would be interference, or signal loss, at least that's more common than getting a bad router.
I'm guessing you're using 5Ghz channels on the new one which the old one didn't have (if I'm looking at the right router). If so, the other thing is that 5GHz doesn't penetrate walls as well, so try it while standing as close to the router as possible so you have a good signal.
If that doesn't work, try changing channels or switching to 2.4Ghz channels to see if they are more stable (though slower). There are phone apps to test wifi interference to see what channel is best. Stand in the place where you want to receive the signal and test there and also then stand next to the router and test there for better results. I use this one, but you can use whatever.
If you're having wireless issues this can help show dead spots, conflicting wifi networks, and works for 2.4 and 5 Ghz signals. Very useful when you need it.
maybe somebody hid the ssid?
also, there could be just max limit on devices on the box.
is it 5ghz and your phone does not support it? (fairly unlikely)
kind of many possibilities why you are not seeing it.
is a good free app, when figuring whats going on.
try different channels - there's an App on Android phones that will show other nearby Wifi networks that may be running on the same channel as your home setup.
Link --> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
Change to a channel that your neighbours don't use.
It could be your TV beginning to fail, or your AP.
More testing required.
That router looks like a pretty good model. You may not need to replace it unless it's having hardware issues.
If you're mostly using the 2.4 GHz spectrum, switch as much as you can over to 5 GHz. There's a much wider range of channels and the signal does not propagate as far, so you should have less interference. I use Wifi Analyzer on my Android device to determine the best channel to avoid interference.
If you have a lot of devices that have or can use Ethernet ports (like a bunch of game consoles hooked up to your TV), set up a client bridge using another router, and then plug them all into that. You can even use a router with external antennas, and place it in a more optimal location to get better signal. This also helps with older consoles like PS3, Xbox 360, etc. that only have 2.4 GHz wireless with internal antennas.
Oh, just found it:
Just an FYI - The speeds advertised on the outside of boxes is the theoretical maximum on paper. Even with the most ideal environment, and the best quality hardware and perfectly coded software, you will never reach that value.
You need to verify wired connection speed, so you have something to compare against.
Then try retesting wireless at different locations away from the router. Try using some kind of scientific method to help limit the the amount of variation between tests.
Also, get a wireless diagnostic app for your phone to verify your signal strength at various locations. You want a strong RSSI value.
Is the desktop wireless also? That seems low.
Edit - yes. I misunderstood your question. You were asking about mobile phones and refurbs from Bell? Yes. I guarantee you any new phone deals from Bell, especially "upgrades" are going to be refurbished phones. Just ask them.
Edit - misunderstood the question but leaving the answer below for science.
Yes, literally a cell phone. I'm not a iPhone person but there may be something suitable there. I only know of the android apps, there are a bunch, I have had good results with this one.
The idea is to scan your vicinity for channel congestion. If you're more rural, it isn't a problem but if you're in metro, you have to scan for the less crowded channels.
Poate ai ceva viruși, scaneaza computerul cu antivirusul Claim, este free, lasă-l peste noapte sa scaneze, ai putea încerca si cu Malwarebytes.
La router schimba canalul pe care se transmite Wi-Fi-ul, instalează pe telefon Wifi Analyzer sa faci un test.
could be a neighbor that has set up a new wifi camera on the same wifi channel/space and is causing ping and speed issues between your devices and router. try switching the channels around after looking around on the spectrum through an application such as this one for android.
or, go hardwired.
I've been using my TPCast for a little over a year now and don't think I could ever go back to being tethered.
As others have pointed out the gray screens are probably the wifi router being on a channel that is saturated. Try finding an open channel and you should have better results. Get yourself a wifi analyzer app to figure out how to adjust your settings. It could also just be poor lighthouse placement and even going back to wired won't help.
What specific problems did you have with OpenTPCast because when installed it should just work without any configuration. You can actually get the camera to work too although that requires a bit of extra work... Unless you're running Linux in which case it just magically works which I found kinda funny.
Lastly, the TPCast Discord is worth visiting if you still have problems.
I have a single AP in my Mikrotik router and it covers the whole house and all devices fine (roughly 1700 sqft, split level). And the router is in the corner where the cable installer ran the coax. I mean to move it.. but it's low on the list. I say this because you don't always need that many APs. Download WiFi Analyzer and check to make sure you have enough signal and move your AP accordingly. If you can't find a good spot, then add a new AP.
I have three Google home devices that are about 35 to 40 feet away from my router. Sorry, I can't remember if they are on the 5 or 2.4 band. Well I know the Hub is on 5.0 band. I have a Wi-Fi extender at the far end of the house from the router. 5.0 band with extender sits at-45 dBm and the 2.4 reads - 40 dBm. -40 is as high a signal as this app shows.
If you invest in an extender, find one that is rated for your size house and go up a size.
Sounds like you used some black box app that just gave a specific channel, rather than one that actually showed you where the active masters are.
Try this app
Here you go: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
I might have paid for it though, I don’t remember because if I did it was years ago.
This one actually looks better and it’s free and open source: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer
How do the other devices connect? How far are you from the access point(/router)? Are there a lot of other wifis?
If you have an Android device, try this app to see how good/bad your signal is.
What wi-fi adapter are you using? do you have access to your router control panel? changing the wireless channel would be a good place to start
download this on your phone, see if it shows your wireless network overlapping with other wireless networks, it's a handy tool to check for a common issue
Boot into a Linux live USB and see if that's any better. If it is, then it's a driver or software issue. If it's still the same, it's a hardware or router issue.
If it's a driver issue, and installing the latest drivers doesn't work, try uninstalling those drivers through Device Manager and falling back to generic Windows drivers.
If you've established it's not a driver/software issue, use an app like Wifi Analyzer (Android link, there's probably an iOS equivalent) to check signal strength and to see if there's interference on that channel. If you find a high volume of other signals on that channel, try logging into your router and changing the wifi channel to something with less traffic on it.
Also, if you haven't yet done it, try rebooting your router.
Any of them.
For instance, this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
This is to check whether or not your phone can see your neighbours 5 ghz networks
likely wireless interference/your wifi is just bad.
What speeds do other wifi devices get?
What is the model of your wireless access point/router?
Download this, check if there are many other networks sharing the same channel as yours.
Android system allows you to monitor data usage between wifi/cell. "Connection details to the next AP based on GPS" Wifi Analyzer?
No clue on for iOS though.
"bakır kullanıyorum" yazmışsın. Yani duvardan gelen telefon kablosu doğrudan ADSL modemine mi bağlı? Eğer doğrudan ADSL modemine bağlıysa ev telefonu kullanamıyorsun demektir ama ev telefonu kullanıyorsan splitter da var demek. Splitter'a değinmemin nedeni şu; geçen seneye kadar 3-5 ayda bir splitter değiştiriyordum çünkü bir anda internet kullanılmaz denecek kadar yavaşlıyordu, yeni splitter taktığımda hız düzeliyordu.
Arkadaşımın başına gelen başka bir örnek vereyim; 10 sene önceki bir olay, komşusu internetin yavaş olduğundan şikayet etmiş, arkadaşım LAN kartındaki tozları silmiş ve internet hızlanmış.
Bir diğer olay da şu; Şişli nüfusun çok yoğun ve gelir seviyesinin yüksek olduğu bir yer, yani çok fazla Wi-Fi bağlantısı var, bu da havadaki trafiği etkiliyor, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer programından yoğunlu görebilirsin. O yüzden benim önerim bir de arada extender/repeater olmadan doğrudan ilk cihaza LAN kablosuyla bağlanıp hız testi yapmak. En azından sorunun senden kaynaklanıp kaynaklanmadığına emin olursun.
Those exist though they tend to be built-in by the device manufacture or the modem/soc manufacturer. Ie: Mediatek, Samsung, Apple, Qualcomm (I think), LG, and probably some others have 'engineering' or 'field test' functions that provide sufficiently savvy users information regarding what cellular bands they're connected to along with other relevant datum. Very neat stuff for a particular subset of tekecoms nerds like me.
One that's more useful to a lot more people would be WiFi analyzer that shows you the status of WiFi spectrum utilization wherever the phone happens to be, this is extremely helpful for tuning your router for best performance since WiFi spectrum can get very crowded in many urban and suburban housing environments
The 2.4 GHz vs 5 GHz results are significant. Yes, you should try to use 5GHz if possible. But let's do some tests first.
You can easily check your router's channel by installing WiFi Analyzer from frarproc https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
Install it on your phone.
Check that you are using ONLY channels 1, 6, ot 11. The other channels can cause interference with the proper channels, and MAY be the cause of some of the Bluetooth issues - please check.
I have helped many Chromebook and Pixelbook users in the Google Help forums when they have WiFi problems. My usual conclusion is, "it's the router". Router settings are often the cause of WiFi connectivity, so I suspect they are somewhat involved with this BT mess.
Without question, there are some major issues with the Intel BT chip, but I am hoping to identify why some users are experiencing so much more problem than others. My hypothesis at this point is that use of improper 2.4GHz WiFi channels exacerbates the Bluetooth issue. Please help supply some additional test data so we can help each other until Intel and Google find a real solution.
If you've got a wired in computer there is an easy way to resolve if this is an ISP/Modem issue or a wifi problem. Run an internet speed test from your PC and then from your phone. (I prefer http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest, but you can pick your own favorite, just make sure it runs on both PC and Phone) If the connection is fast and responsive on the PC but not on the phone, then its the wifi. If its bad on both, then its more likely something with the ISP / modem.
If it comes down to the cable company / modem, you may want to contact them and reregister your modem with them. Sometime a cable company will make updates in their provider service and it doesn't always push down to customer owned modems. Its a little unlikely, but something to consider. Also the possibility re-terminating the cable connection coming into your apartment (Something you most likely want the cable company to do, but you can do itself if you're feeling adventurous)
Given you said you're in an apartment, I'm still going to go with you've got a neighbor with a noisy device causing your problem. With Wifi it doesn't necessarily have to be another network. Cordless phones, microwave ovens, baby monitors, even poor electrical wiring can do it.
I'm not familiar with the Archer routers, but does it do automatic channel selection for your wifi? Can you test to see if your wifi channel is on the same as some other nearby wifi networks? Changing your 2.4 and 5 ghz network to a different channel would be one of the first things I'd do.
Tracking the interference down can be a pain. It take some experimenting and a little searching to find what's blocking you. Wifi Analyzer - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en should work on your galaxy and is a great way to see what running in the area.
If you have an android phone download this app it will show you which channels wifi routers are using around you. So just pick a channel that isn't used so there's less interference. 5ghz preferably https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
If its an LTE issue there isn't much you can do.
you want 5GHz wifi if you don't have it already. use a scanner app like this one
If you are on wireless, this could be caused by other wireless broadcasts over the same channel as yours. If you have android you can use this app to see the details of the wifi channels.
I'll chime in here, your wireless radio operates on a "channel" much like a "station" that you'd tune to using the radio in your car. If two radio stations try to operate on the same channel, funky stuff starts to happen.
If your neighbor set up their own wifi on the same "channel" that your 5GHz network operates on, it can cause problems with both networks.
If you have an Android phone, you can download Wifi Analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US) to see if there are any wifi networks operating on the same channel as your own. If so, it's as simple as switching your wireless router/access point's configuration to use another channel.
It would be helpful if you could tell us what models of phones we are comparing here.
Also, just because the Wi-Fi icon shows "better" connectivity, doesn't mean that it actually is.
Download something like Wi-Fi Analyzer and you will see the actual strength of your signal.
Are you sure you're not just changing to another saturated channel? Get a wifi scanning app like Wifi Analyzer for android. It will show you all wireless networks in range, and what channel they are using. Find one that is the least congested, and use that.
Did you load up https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US on a phone and get some visualization of network signals?
If you're on android, there's about a million apps which do just that.
Wifi Analyzer on Playstore
It doesn't look like there's an app equivalent for iOS as it'd require jailbreak (citation needed).
You may have a separate network for running credit cards and one for customers.
It sounds like you need someone local who knows what they are doing (including PCI compliance). You/they may run into issues accessing hardware to tweak the wifi channels if it's vendor owned. You can use an app like Wifi analyzer to see what channels are crowded and request whoever manages the APs to appropriate ones if you don't have access to change them yourself.
You could clean up the wiring yourself pretty easily just leave everything plugged into the same ports and don't do it while you're open.
The router should display frequencies available as per the spec in your location so you won't need to guess.
The easiest way to check for the least congested frequencies is to use something like a phone, tablet, or free laptop.
Depending on what OS your portable device runs - you want an app similar to "Wifi Analyzer" on android.
Android - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
Windows Store - https://lifehacker.com/see-how-bad-your-wifi-situation-really-is-with-wifi-ana-1826534324
Windows/OSX - https://www.netspotapp.com/
>Anyways, no program is using anything in the background according to task manager. The only thing used the network is Steam and occasionally Chrome or Discord with small 0.1 Mbps intervals sometimes.
You should check at your router either way to be sure, unless the speeds are fine over ethernet. Checking in task manager is just part of the picture.
>It’s weird how my 3rd monitor was doing this. Maybe it’s because the HDMI is capable of transfering ethernet? But that wouldn’t make sense anyways since the TV is a 5 year old 1080p TV with no use for internet.
Shouldn't be the ethernet over HDMI. Could be something to do with interference from the backlight or the refresh of the pixels.
>There are only 4 neighbours within a 500 meter radius. All of them are atleast 20 meters away, so I wouldn’t think it’s something to do with them.
Wifi can definitely travel more than 20m.
>How do I adjust that with the router? Is it through clicking on it manually or the website I’ve forgotten how to access?
It's the "website you've forgotten how to access" aka the router's internal admin page. Usually it defaults to 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1.
>Do you have any examples of apps that can see the network channels in the area?
For Android phone's there's Wifi Analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
I haven't used it but there's a Windows one too: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/wifi-analyzer/9nblggh33n0n#activetab=pivot:overviewtab
Besides that, maybe inspect your wifi antennas on your PC and the router, make sure they are on well, and that a pet hasn't chewed on them.
You need to get a Wifi Analyzeri and ensure no other router is using the same channel as the TPCast. The closer the router on the same (or overlapping) channel is to your TPCast route the more packets you drop and the more lag you'll experience.
Unfortunately routers change channels all the time so you might want to get in the habit of doing a quick check before every play session.
> > Anyways, no program is using anything in the background according to task manager. The only thing used the network is Steam and occasionally Chrome or Discord with small 0.1 Mbps intervals sometimes.
> You should check at your router either way to be sure, unless the speeds are fine over ethernet. Checking in task manager is just part of the picture.
Checked the network usage on the IP-address admin page, and there's no one using more than 5 Mbps while I was downloading a game in steam with 10 Mbps.
> > How do I adjust that with the router? Is it through clicking on it manually or the website I’ve forgotten how to access?
> It's the "website you've forgotten how to access" aka the router's internal admin page. Usually it defaults to 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1.
Gotcha. Copied my IP-address into the search bar and there it was.
> > Do you have any examples of apps that can see the network channels in the area?
> For Android phone's there's Wifi Analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
> I haven't used it but there's a Windows one too: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/wifi-analyzer/9nblggh33n0n#activetab=pivot:overviewtab
Downloaded it on my PC and I'm not understanding a lot. Maybe you know more about it? Here are some screenshots: one and two.
Thanks for the gold! You really didn't need to do that.
First things first you probably don't need the Apple mesh router. The Nighthawk X10 is a really good router. But one thing you can do is download an app on your phone to measure how strong the signal is. You can kind of do this by just looking at your phone's wifi signal strength icon too. If you have an android I highly recommend WiFi Analyzer.
If your wifi is strong in every part of your place then you don't need a mesh wifi system. They are for large places that have many walls where one wifi router put out a strong even signal to blanket the entire house.
As for setting up a static IP for your problem devices (start with the nanoleafs) check this out:
You'll need their MAC addresses so your router knows what device to assign the permanent IP address too. Grab them in your attached devices page in your router.
Hope that all makes sense and isn't too hard to do. Let me know if you need me to explain/clarify something further.
+1 pour le changement de canal, ça peut faire des miracles !
Pour en savoir plus, si tu as un android tu peux télécharger cette application : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=fr
Le réseau se change sur la page de configuration de ton routeur (192.168.0.1 ou autre, je te laisse regarder sur internet).
Une petite clef usb peut faire des miracles, mais pour le confort (compatible avec d'autres appareils, mobilité, etc..) je te conseil vivement un répétiteur
I'd double check which wifi channel you're on and how busy it is in your apartment.
Also the 5ghz range is significantly less populated.
This is what I use on my phone, for my PC I run a white cable from the ONT to the computer room.
Básicamente (puedo decir alguna burrada, que alguien me corrija si es el caso) en la configuración del router va a haber una opción que sea canal o channel o algo por el estilo, un numero del 1 al 11 creo.
Cuando muchos routers están configurados para "hablar" en el mismo canal (pasa mucho en edificios o en oficinas) se produce una interferencia y la calidad de la conexión inalambrica puede empeorar (en hora pico esto es peor. Cuando todos tus vecinos, por ejemplo, llegan de laburar y quieren ver netflix).
lo que te recomiendo es que te bajes al celular alguna app que analice las redes cercanas y en que canal hablan esta por ejemplo. Y te fijes cuales son los canales con menos gente. De ahi vas a configurar tu router y lo pnes en alguno de esos.
Some quick troubleshooting:
If the internet only cuts on wifi, it could be that there are too many people on then same channel and/or frequency. You can use this android app to see how 'crowded' your airspace is.
Think of it as having 5 radio stations broadcasting on 106.7- if you tune in while they're all broadcasting, you'll get snippets of all three cutting in and out.
If you have a 2.4 Ghz modem (basically, if it's cheap or what your telco gave you), this could be the issue. You could beg/borrow/steal/buy a 5 Ghz modem to see if that helps. They tend to be pricey, so see if you can borrow one.
Another issue I had in the past was that I had a really cheap modem that could only handle something like 10 devices and it would need to be restarted all the time because the internet would suddenly drop out and the modem would feel warm. If you have a lot of devices running off of a cheap modem (like in a share house) , this could also be an issue. If it's just you and your phone, laptop, and gaming console (or whatever) then it's probably not the issue.
A wifi analyzer on a phone is a great tool for this. I use this one on android all the time
Give it a shot. Use this on your tablet/phone if you have android to help find a good channel: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US
it wouldn't explain everything but can you post a screen shot of a wireless scanning app like this to see how crowded your local area is?
I live in an apartment and get some crazy strange wifi issues now and again because there is ~100 wifi networks within my building. like a few feet can make a massive signal difference
are you on 5Ghz or 2.4?
my two wildest guesses are 1) the TV gets much better reception from that tiny height change or 2) the TV has better latency compensation
WiFi related battery drain is mainly caused due to low signal strength. Depending on the layout of your house and how crowded your WiFi channels are (neighbouring WiFi networks) then one may work better than the other.
I'd suggest using an app like Wifi Analyzer, which can help you measure your signal strength at various spots in your home and also see what the other networks are in your area and if they're overlapping your networks.
Technically 5GHz networks are faster but travel shorter distances, so in theory it could drain more battery. Practically I'd be surprised if you'd find any significant difference at all between the two that it matters. I'd recommend sticking to 5GHz unless you have a range issue.
assuming your smartphone is dual channel, there are plenty of free apps to visualize area wifi channel use.
i can see two dozen ssid's in my queens ny apt building, so instead of using auto i am set at 11 and 161 (the higher end of both ranges) and i use dynamic 20/40 Mhz wide channels. i have been in building on the upper west side of manhattan where the wifi is saturated and unusable by an "arms race" of people with overpowered wifi for their tiny apts. some bad tech misinformed practices others here mentioned is using middle channels between 1, 6, 11 and using channels wider than 40 Mhz.
keep in mind wifi is blocked by metal, so placement of your wifi is important - be aware of plumbing and electrical risers, kitchen and bathroom major appliances and fixtures, and corner reinforcing metal lath in your walls. all of them may conspire to block wifi signal. i have found it useful to raise my wifi vertically to the midpoint of the wall (4'-5' up) instead of leaving it down at desk height (2'-3' up). i do not use a g1100 and opted instead to buy my own dual band beam-forming 1200AC router to cover a 1,400 sqft apt.
Running Cat6 (ethernet) cable outside is far from ideal unless you have a good conduit to put it in. The plastic UTP shielding gets brittle with sun and temperature changes after awhile. Moreover if the cable takes in moisture it will be pooched!
There are many "peel and stick" wire conduit systems for inside and some are good for outside but I agree they all look pretty ugly (but at least professional)
But before you wire, did you do any troubleshooting with the WiFi in regards to channels being used? Its a common problem in cities.
Download this WiFi analyzer app Its free and a great tool! (Sorry Apple users, not looking for your speed test app BS - Android users only. This app actually analyzes the 2.4 and 5G spectrum and signal strength as per the channels being used.)
Launch the app and what you do OP is you look for the network charts. You look on that chart for your home's WiFi SSID (network) and it will show what channel its on (eg: page113_wifi_home is on channel 6 in the 2.4G spectrum.) Then Look at how many networks close by are being broadcast on that channel. They will build a "peak" of networks around that channel. What you want to do is have your network in a "valley channel" - meaning one that is not being used a lot on yours and your neighbors WIFI.
Next - go to your basement office and perform the same test. What networks are being used there? In the end, find the channel that has a "valley" in common in both areas and take note of it. (IE: If there are 12 networks using channel 6 but no one close is using channel 9 at either area you have a good channel to switch too now)
Then - login to your Wifi router's configuration (where you change the password for wifi) and find your channel setting. In the example above, change it to channel 9 (or the channel you found from your testing to be open). Click apply, save, and then go try your brand new strong signal wifi.
Note - the 2.4G networks (A, G, N) may be slower in speed but have better wall penetration. 5G (N, AC) are faster by far but have less penetration abilities.
Lastly, if you are using the Wifi with Gamers and Netflix users on your network, make sure your WiFi router is MUMIMO so that it can server everyone fairly and MUCH better. Perhaps also try using an OFFICE ONLY Wifi Network too. That makes testing easier
Most good routers these days can broadcast multiple SSIDs. If you are using the router that Shaw/Telus gave you and repeating that SSID, that could be the issues itself too. Turn that off and buy a good router!
If after all this it still causes issues in the basement office, then yes, cable a Cat6A run (if you can find it) as it might your best option. Lastly note that the ethernet cable can only go 300 feet so if you own a mansion, you might not be able to get around the whole "farm house" :-P
Probably your Wifi.
Id run an app like Wifi Analyzer and check to see that you're not on a really congested channel.
remember xbox controllers run on 2.4Ghz putting router to close to the xbox having the xbox berried in a tv cabinet. (anything metal is bad) can affect the connection.
also check your wifi router maybe try and shift its channel to something else check wifi in your area https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en maybe there just to much wifi
also make sure the controller is up to date.
microwave can also affect wireless signals.
Only thing you can try is to configure the 5ghz channel to "149-153-157-161". This will force it to use higher power. For the 2.4ghz, set the channel to either 1, 6 or 11. If you use an app like wifi analyzer, you can see which of the 1, 6, or 11 you should use.
Sorry I should have clarified, grab one that shows all the channel usage. Such as this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Weasel errors that continually occur when logging into Destiny can be a result of clan settings, log into Bungie and check clan settings - https://www.bungie.net/
Weasel during gameplay is usually due to packet loss etc issues between Destiny 2 and Bungie's servers or the player ( peer ) hosting that session. Quality of connection is important in resolving Weasel errors.
Now a wired or WiFi connection to the router?
If WiFi have you tested with different channels or tried a channel analysis using an app such as WiFi Analyzer to see which channel is optimal?
A temporary tether to a mobile device ( 3G / 4G / etc ) may help determine if the issue is related to the router or ISP.
Other troubleshooting can found at Destiny 2 Network / Connection Issues - General Troubleshooting Guide at https://www.reddit.com/r/DestinyTechSupport/comments/7n7yh4/troubleshooting_guides_framerate_crashing/drzqlo8/
If you can find other WiFi networks, but not yours, try to change the channel the router's WiFi is on. Use something less than 11.
You can also use WiFi Analyzer to find the channel with the least noise.
Edit: Also ensure your WiFi is 2.4GHz, in the case the Redmi Note 3 doesn't support 5GHz.
You got an android phone? Wifi Analyzer will let you see how much "noise" there is on the different frequencies you can use - both on 2.4 and on 5.0.
It'll also show you if there's something wrong with the signal from your router.
Both personal from experience, and from supporting users on Chromebook Central. I had one of the Chromebits when it was first released. I round it a rather unpleasant device to use.
One possible workaround for both the WiFi and accessibility issues, is to use an HDMI male to female extension cable. That will allow you to locate the Chromebit away from the metal chassis of the TV. Some sort of cable is included with Chromebits, but it may not be long enough.
You can do a quick test of the WiFi signal by installing farproc's WiFi Analyzer app in your phone. Then watch the signal strength indicator as you move the phone to the back of the TV.
That's a big problem to play games. The solution depends on the problem. One think could be is there are problems sharing the spectrum. There is an APP for the cellular phone called WIFI ANALYZER which can help you to see if your wifi channel is being occupied with the neighbours wifi. If so, you can change the channel in your router administration webpage.
The other think could be having a good antenna. There are external USB wifi adapters with good antennas. Look for antennas having a +5 db parameter. Alfa Networks have products like that.
Off course the first you should do is discard router problems before you buy a new device. Try run the test with other device if you can.
> Duffmax: ... get the Weasel error code so often that I can't even play the game
Weasel is usually due to packet loss etc issues between Destiny 2 and Bungie's servers or the player ( peer ) hosting that session. Quality of connection is important in resolving Weasel errors.
Wired or WiFi connection to the router?
If WiFi have you tested with different channels or tried a channel analysis using an app such as WiFi Analyzer to see which channel is optimal for your current home?
> Duffmax: I have a download speed of 65/70 Mbps and upload speed of 5.5/6 Mbps, ping is 11ms.
> Duffmax: I used to be able to play without any issue at all .. however I recently moved to a new place ... but have changed ISP (now with Comcast)
Bandwidth of a connection doesn't guarantee the quality of a connection. A new ISP may also route traffic differently than the previous ISP due to peering agreements.
It may be worth keeping a network monitoring application open and filtering on Destiny 2, that will identify IP addresses the game is using.
The IP addresses can then be used to determine the quality of connection between your PC and the host i.e. using network traceroute / ping / etc tools. NOTE: the host can be another player so be aware of that!
Details on Destiny 2's unique hybrid peer to peer / client server networking model can be found at Destiny 2 Network / Connection Issues - General Troubleshooting Guide
Hope a solution is found so you can enjoy Destiny 2 again.
> My router is downstairs and across the house, so direct ethernet is not an option.
Wifi mostly likely is not an option either - at least not with JUST a WiFi card in the PC..
802.11 2.4Ghz my reach but that frequency band is so over saturated these day you will be lucky to minimal speeds and high latency on it..
and 802.11 AC 5GHz band probably will not have enough signal strength to reach..
So your entire WiFi configuration comes into play..
The Gateway that is used from your ISP to broadcast the WiFi signal... How far the device that wants WiFi is from that Gateway.. How much OTHER Wifi Signal (from all your neighbors) is clogging up the airways.. What building / appliance / stuff is between the far reaching device and the Gateway..
To combat these issues Mesh WiFi networks are being implemented more and more - So I would look into those..
Ethernet over Powerline is also an option, but due to it being across the house they will not be on the same circuits and that adds some complication to the system..
Ethernet over powerline basically transmits a signal over your power lines to modules on either end.. Home wiring / power panels and appliances on the lines can effect the quality of the Ethernet of powerline signal..
These solutions are one of those try it and see if it works and works well in your situation.. They can either work GREAT or be a complete nightmare,
If you get a cheap set of adapters that were made a while ago with older EOP technology it likely will not work - They keep refining the process..
With all that out of the way..
If your WiFi solution is decent then the Maximus X Hero(wifi-ac) will be adequate..
If it is not or you need faster transfers with a WiFi gateway that supports Multi-User MiMo Multiple in Multiple outs.. Which would aggregate more than one WiFi data streams..
You can get a card like this: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY
If the Ethernet over powerline works out then your Built in Ethernet would work..
So how do you know if your WiFi as it sits will even reach?
Use your smartphone as a WiFi signal detector..
Here are some Android APPS - if you only have Apple your on your own lol..
I would download them all and try them out and learn how the WiFi signals in your area are and what the traffic looks like..
Then go up to where the PC would be check the signal strength and traffic..
While up there run a Speetest
and see what kind of speeds you get...
you can take your phone around to various areas to see how this changes..
Oh and good luck WiFi is all witchcraft and magic so it is not an exact science (unless you have the knowledge and equipment for proper evaluation)
With these simple tools you can gain a better understanding of your WiFi and what works and what does not..
How is the Xbox connected? Wired? Wireless? If Wireless, try wired, or at least use an app like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US to check if your Wifi signal is being drowned in other signals, and try changing channels on your access point. You'll need a decent Wifi signal to have hope of streaming UHD properly, so if you're in a dense apartment area or dorm etc you may be out of luck for UHD over Wifi.
If you're wired, then... have you tested the speed, or just paying for 150mbps? Try fast.com
Try installing wifi analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US&rdid=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
And seeing what kind of signal strength you see for 2.4 networks. If it's a hw issue the signal strength will probably be very low. If you get good signal I doubt it's a hw issue.
If you're need to do a bit of networking once in a while (ANDROID):
Wifi Analyzer: shows all Wifi networks around you and their respective channels and signal strength.
Fing: Network Scanner, see who is on your network. Great for finding out if you have rogue users on your network, and what is actually on your network.
These two tools alone are highly recommended for all computer techies.
Any range, it's more about signal strength. If you have Android on any device, get: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
We all use it. I'd say any overlapping networks stronger than -70 dBm are a problem, but I'd start worrying above -80 dBm as well. Ymmv. It's obviously zonal, too, so you'll see it change as you walk around. You'll see access points disappear and new ones come into view, and grow stronger as you approach.
Use an app called Wifi Analyzer to see if the 2.4GHz spectrum is indeed crowded. You mentioned that changing channels don't work, so unless you go to your neighbors' houses and unplug their routers, then you don't have any other options but to use 5GHz.
I’ve seen good things about this . It should give you an idea of if it’s another wifi network or just noise.
The gray screen has nothing to do with the video transmitter and everything to do with the router/wifi signal.
Get yourself a wifi analyzer app (I use this one) and make sure your TPCast router has a dedicated channel (not 11a is the mode not the channel) and isn't competing for bandwidth with another nearby router. Most likely there is another router using the same channel (or partial overlap) that is causing your problems.
You'll want to check this every time you start VR because often routers are set to auto mode and they'll switch channels at will.
According to these guys: https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!msg/nexus/YdGckq4Qa1E/023mRZ-wBQAJ
This: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en allows you to enable/disable bands - I haven't tested so YMMV
Is the x360 doing some updates during that time?
1.Use the least congested channel with the help of this app.
2.Change channel width to 20Mhz.
3.Disable "airtime fairness".
4.Flash AC68U Merlin firmware.
Try each step only if previous step doesn't work.
are you seeing no xfinitywifi ssdi at all, or are you just not seeing the one broadcast from your device?
the best way to tell what's going on is using a good wifi analyzer.. if you have any android device, this IMO is the best to use: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
it will find all SSIDs being broadcast, so find the SSID that your device is broadcasting, write down the MAC listed.. then look for xfinitywifi and you can expand it to show all devices broadcasting... look for a MAC that is almost identical to the private SSID your device is broadcasting.. if you can't find your device.. well then that's a problem.
Your drone, whether it's a Phantom, Mavic, Spark or Air will run on both 2.4ghz and 5.8ghz. 2.4ghz is what Wifi (home routers, etc) use for data connections. 2.4 is also what your drone uses for it's connection - telemetry and controls. 5.8ghz is what your transmitter/receiver uses for the video feed, which is mixed with the telemetry (ie the alt/speed/height etc data) that the drone sends back to the ground.
It is possible to set the band of the connection, however this is so far as I know purely the controls - the 'do this, move forward, back, left, right, take a pic, etc' side of things. The video is on 5.8 regardless. This loss of control is either because you have Wifi interference or something else in that area that is causing the interference (large electromagnetic fields from power grid pylons for example).
There are a number of ways to figure out what is/was going on.
Get an app on your phone and (with the drone on and connected, NOT armed and spinning though, just connected and 'running normally') have a look at the local Wifi networks (even if you are in the sticks a bit). An app like this will help you see what's going on (free)..
Beyond this, there's a few parts of your story we'll need to know more about to help diagnose the issue;
Are you flying with your phone or a tablet?
Has it got Wifi on whilst you fly? (try it again without -- best practice is put the phone in airplane mode)
Have you checked your image/video cache on that device isn't totally jammed full, this often causes GO4 to crash, and ti's hard to tell why until you realise the amount of processing power it takes to write/telemetry/send data/receive/scrub old data/record flight logs/etc etc .... I've had my caching turned off for nearly a year now, once I realised that was causing GO to crash so much.
What aircraft are you flying?
What is in the local area? Pylons? underground cables?
Have you calibrated the drone on site, to ensure it's set up for that locality?
When you lose connection, does it automatically return to home or are you just losing the video feed and still have the controls?
Let us know, we'll see what we can do. Greetings from Liverpool, UK, btw. :)
I use an app on my phone to check this.
I use this app on my android to see how bad the airwaves are. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
So with computers A and B, and routers X and Y, you are having issues with A<->X, A<->Y, and B<->X?
Do you have an Android phone? Check for interference.
If you have an Android phone you can use a WiFi analyzer. They have some for Windows, and if you Google search "wifi analyzer"
I'm sure you can find some for other platforms as well.
May be unrelated (especially as you see your router), but check the channel of your wifi router, and if on 2.4ghz and using higher channels, as channel 13, force lower channel, as channel 1 or 6 and try once again to connect. You can check this with a mobile app on your smartphone, as Wifi Analyzer : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en.
Try also with another WPA/WPA2 security type just to test (you could also test with another password).
> solo la connessione da 2 Ghz, che sia quella intasata
Al 99% il problema è quello.
Scaricati questo per Android e cerca il canale WiFi meno intasato e imposta il modem in modo che trasmetta fisso su quel canale.
Do you have any devices that are connected with a wire to confirm that the issue is limited to WiFi? If you try transferring a large file from another machine on your network, do you still see performance issues? This app is handy for checking for channel congestion, costs nothing but time to try.
That would be safe. Make sure you have your robot code on both phones. Download the Wifi Analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en) on a separate Android phone. It can help you determine what channel your phone is currently on. Good luck! See you there!
Download the app wifi analyzer.
That way you can pretty much see everything
about your network that is signal related.
(android app) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
If you want to see if your laptop supports 5ghz it should be in the system specifications somewhere.
It does seem strange for a new laptop to not have 5ghz support but i'm not too sure what the meta is for wifi modules these days.
I'd suggest downloading the app and see if it helps you. You can post screenshot if you need more help. But it could be the channel your network is using at it's current frequency.
Also, you can connect to other wifi networks with your Laptop right? Just checking :P
You could try turning up the signal strength for 5ghz and lowering it for 2.4, as your phone may be trying to connect to the one with the most strength, since 2.4 is longer range but slower.
Also try changing channel width from 20 to 40 or 80, although try to avoid overlapping with other channels.
Also maybe changing the channel on 5ghz to something under 100 ,my Nintendo Switch wouldn’t even see my 5g network until I changed it from channel 156 to 64.. weird, although this probably do anything since the Switch has a crap WiFi card and most phones don’t
A good app for WiFi testing , if you don’t already have it, is WiFi Analyzer. Good for checking overlapping channels, dead spots, etc.
That’s all I got other then completely disabling 2.4 or using a different SSID.
it might be a bit awkward to do, but if you install wifi Analyzer, the one made by farproc that is.
set it to list all AP's instead of graph/chart them (click the eyeball icon and select AP list) and if there are multiples under one name you will see a little triangle to the left of the AP name click that AP and it should open up a list of them underneath, if you click on one it should ask you if you want to connect to it. also it will show you the signal strength/etc of it.
is this what you are after?
I like WiFi Analyzer on Android.
Do folks know about WiFi Analyzer? This app lets you see what's going on with all the WiFi signals flying around your space so you can pick the channel with the least competition.
I hate it when folks leave their routers to switch channels...all the routers are fixed in space and nobody's moving so why should the routers be changing channels all the time?! I wish folks would read this and respond accordingly.
Yeah the WiFi being unreliable is almost never the fault of your ISP if your wired connection is fine. Chances are your router is getting a lot of interference from your neighbors.
I use this app. It gives you a chart of all the 2.4ghz and 5ghz wifi signals in range of your phone and tells you what channel they are operating on. If your wifi has a lot of overlap with a neighbor you're going to get interference. Most routers allow you to manually set a channel but not all routers can use all channels.
If that doesn't work, look into getting a better router.
Did you actually check how crowded 5Ghz is? with something like this
(Assuming this is on WiFi)
You could try downloading a WiFi analyzer app (Here is one for Android). See of you have a bunch of other networks on the same channel, and if you do then change the channel on your router.
If that doesn't help, see if rebooting your router helps.
Most routers will have two separate signals being broadcast. 5 Ghz and 2.4 Ghz. Just tell your phone to forget the 5 Ghz networks if you are using them.
If you are unsure which is which (they will sometimes be named ending in "5G"), then download something like Wifi Analyzer. Swipe right or left on the screens until you get to the detailed view which will show your channel and Mhz (~5000 Mhz range is a 5Ghz signal, ~2400 Mhz range is a 2.4 Ghz signal) for each respective network you can see.
Again, your router should be broadcasting both a 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz signal if it has the capability to do 5 Ghz. If not, you need to manage your router settings by logging in, but that's a different tutorial (you could also disable the 5 Ghz signal directly on your router by logging in, if you were to go that route).
EDIT: Just as a disclaimer to everyone: Don't choose the "forget" option for networks unless you know your Wi-Fi passwords. If you don't know your passwords, then you shouldn't be making any modifications until you are sure you can reconnect if needed. Settings are different for every network and typically the 2.4 Ghz password will be the same as the 5 Ghz, but it's not guaranteed and can depend on the initial setup. If you did not setup your router or all of this sounds weird and alien, then it might be best to just turn off Wi-Fi when you're not using it... at least until there's a fix.
This may be a bit of a stretch, but what are you using for DNS servers? If it is taking a bit to startup, but then works fine, it could be a slow DNS response the first time the computer / device is looking up the appropriate addresses. Might look at using different DNS servers than the default Metronet ones.
I agree about the wireless. You might look for a wireless analyzing app, assuming you have a smart phone. On Android, I like Wifi Analyzer - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
It can let you see other networks and see if there might be a better channel for your wifi network to be on.
Another thing. I don't have Android TV, but I do have a Roku. The Roku sticks (cheaper models) only have a single wifi antenna and like to broadcast their own wifi signal to talk to their remotes on the same channel they are using to get on the wifi. This can stomp on the wifi signal.
Yeah, I'm not sure what else I can add. My router's a BiPAC 8800AXL, and I'm in the UK.
Try the Wifi Analyzer app. Can you even see a 5Ghz signal?
Yes it is.
what kind of wifi router are you using? I suspect with the popularity of the Home/Mini many people are going to discover some settings on their router may need to be adjusted or that the router may not even be up tot the task.
If all is good with your router have you tried using an app like Wifi Analyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en to check the signal strength where the Mini is located? I sometimes wish they offered an Ethernet power cord like they do for chromecast
I use the android app that /u/illforgetsoonenough suggested: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
I believe there's one for iOS that's similar, and further, you can use the free version of inSSIDer if you need to do it on a laptop.
Your alternatives are costly, either a "fun" game of peek-a-boo trying to find it behind the ceiling tiles, or use something like the netscout aircheck g2: http://enterprise.netscout.com/products/aircheck-g2-wifi-tester
... though, if the APs are off, good luck finding them.... you're basically limited to peek-a-boo.
If you have an Android device you can download WiFi Analyzer to check your signal strength, signal-to-noise-ratio and other useful stuff.
To check transmission rates I'd stay away from internet-based speed tests because if you use those, you can't be sure where the bottleneck was. Set up a device to serve big files with a wired connection to your AP (via switch/router) and then try to pull the files via WiFi.
You can also check out iperf.
On Android I use Wifi Analyzer
I'd think the issue comes from both of your wifi being on the same channel or from being in a location that isn't optimal
On android you can use the Wifi Analyzer app, on Windows I like Acrylic Wifi scanner
You can use an app to test wifi signals. You might just have good reception out there on the road.
I'm on BT Infinity 2, HH5.
I have terrible WiFi connectivity in the evening. That's because there are at minimum another 20 access points in range all contending for the same wireless bandwidth. Changing to a separate access point under these circumstances may not be the answer. I actually tested this using an enterprise-class Cisco AP borrowed from a colleague, as well as a TP link device I had kicking around. It made no noticeable difference over a week of testing.
More testing that I've done:
Place a laptop directly next to the HH5. Connect to the public channel. Run speed test. Download peaks at ~8Mbs. Connect to the private channel. Repeat test. Download peaks at ~60Mbs. Conclusion: The bandwidth available to the public channel has a hard limit.
Two laptops of identical spec. One connected to the private channel, one connected to the public channel. Kick off download of a 4GB CentOS image from a local mirror on the public channel. Downloads at around 8Mbps as expected. Whilst the first download is still in progress, initiate the same download on the laptop connected to the private channel. Download settles down at around 60Mbps. Crucially, the download on the public channel drops to around 0.5Mbps. Repeated the test using different download sources for each laptop, and then using a wired connection instead of the wireless connection on the private channel. Similar results seen. Likely conclusion? QoS is enabled and favours the owner of the connection.
Try it for yourself.
As for /u/Cregavitch, if you live in a built up area then your issue may just be too many Wi-Fi access points in range eating up the available bandwidth. No ISP can guarantee the quality of a WiFi connection as the spectrum is shared between all local users. Use an app like this to see what's going on. Do you get the same issues with a wired connection?
This is the best tool for diagnosing WiFi issues on Android.
But basically, just because you have a decent signal from your access point, doesn't mean that you are going to get good throughput. If another access point is on the same channel as you, it has the potential to interfere with your signal. To be specific if it's within 18dBm, it will be affecting your signal. If some one is one the same channel as you, they are on the same frequency as you and as physics teaches us, when two frequencies hit each other, they cancel each other out,hence the rubbish performance.
So if you use the above tool, and see someone is on the same channel as you, try reconfiguring your access point to use a cleaner channel and your experience should improve.
Did a neighbor change their WiFi channels to one on top of yours? I use WiFi Analyzer to see what's what in my area for WiFi channels. I thought the HR44 didn't see 5Ghz WiFi?
Did an update break your box so it can't use your old HDMI cable? I've had handshake issues on cables that shouldn't have issues but the handshake was fixed with a newer cable. Don't ask me, I just watch TV here! ;)
Can you connect to wifi with smart phone? Use a wifi analyser like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer u may have to adjust settings on your router
Could be congestion. If you have an Android device, install this app and see how 'clean' the air is. There may be a better channel that you can force your asus router to use.
Edit: just noticed that you mentioned trying other channels. sorry.
Is this a new issue where the speeds suddely dropped?
Looks like WiFi Analyzer ... https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
I use it on a regular basis. Great app.
Before you do, grab this and install it on your phone:
You can use it to see all the networks around you and what channels they're on, so you can make a sensible decision about what channel you want to use. Be sure to check both the 2.4 and 5 Ghz bands while you're nearby to where your computer and other wireless devices are located.
Make sure to first test your internet connectivity when connected wired, so you know the max speeds you can get.
5GHz wifi is supposed to allow for higher bandwidth, at reduced range; as it doesn't penetrate walls and other obstacles as well as 2,4GHz. So if there are a few walls between you and the wifi router, you might want to use 2,4GHz.
If you have an Android device, use this app to see which wifi channels (2,4GHz: 1, 6, 11) are most used by your neighbours, and choose the channel with the least neighbouring networks for your wifi. Do the same for 5GHz.
Also: yes, everything is moving to wireless, as it's handy and convenient. But it's nearly not as stable and fast as wired. Wifi reception is a big issue in many buildings. One access point in a single building is never going to be great...
Edit: Welp, Bals2oo8 was a bit faster. We kind of had the same ideas.
Kk sorry I fell asleep. So I need you to get a free app from the play store https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
This app is great because I think what's going on is there is interference on the 2.4ghz wireless that you're running on and when this happens your router is set to jump to another "channel". When this happens all wireless devices will drop and then have to reconnect.
Anyway back to the tool when you launch it, choose your wireless network name and when you swipe to the left or the right, there are a handful of tools.
One tool kinda looks like an old school battery tester with that twitchy arm that bounces around. This tool will show you signal strength as you walk around your house.
There is another one where depending on where you are from will have a column of channels from 1-11 at least up here in Canada. Each of the rows the more stars they have the better the channel will be for you to use in your home. If it has a small number of stars across the board you might have to upgrade your router.
Let me know when you get the app.
Do I have to be connected to the access point to make this work? I was thinking it'd be something like WiFi Analyzer where I can just pick any AP in the area and map it.
Not quite what you asked for, but this freeware tool is also decent, though it doesn't give you what you're looking for
WiFi Analyzer. We don't have a very good network team as you can imagine.
Make YOUR life easier - only YOU can decide what will do that. Everyone has different needs.
The overall best thing is to thoroughly learn how to use the ChromeOS system FIRST. That's what the Chromebook is designed to do.
Then, if you want to do something and really can't find a solution on the web, or in the Web Store, only then should you look at Android apps.
I have very few Android apps. One is WiFi Analyzer, which helps diagnose WiFi issues
Another is an Android File Manager - you will eventually need one since ChromeOS can't get to all the Android app folders. That's a security design feature.
Avoid anything that requires using Developer Mode unless you are already a SKILLED Linux user.
Spend time in the Google Help System for Chromebooks. The more you learn, the less problems you will have.
I know you said that Wifi shouldn't be an issue since it's directly above the router on a different floor but a "cheap" fix if it turns out to be wifi might be to grab some powerline network adapters so your stick can connect over ethernet without having to run cords throughout your house. I haven't priced powerline kits in awhile so I say "cheap" because this route may only be like $20-30 cheaper than splurging for a lifetime PlexPass subscription and I'd hate for you to spend $100+ on my suggestion and it ultimately not work.
There are wifi analyzer apps/programs you can use to check what kind of signal your stick is getting I use WiFi Analyzer for Android. It could even be some other WiFi Signal from a neighbor on the same channel as your wifi or some neighboring overlapping channel is causing interference.
Is your WiFi the stick connects to 5Ghz or 2.4Ghz, if it's 5Ghz try switching your stick to the 2.4Ghz channel on on your router since lower frequencies have better wall penetration
Im curious what PlexPass features would help fix your issue?
> It plays for say 5 seconds then stops, then it takes a couple of mins frozen then plays another 5 seconds and so on.
> Sideloading generally works, but using a MAC it takes forever to put something on the phone and also with limited space, that's another issue. So was hoping to use the server method.
Hmmm. It actually does sound more like you're describing a buffering issue, and if the same clips play back properly when sideloaded that would seem to confirm it. It's not impossible for an old router that might be running on a crowded channel to perform very poorly, particularly if you've got a whole lot of other 2.4GHz peripheral devices operating nearby as well.
You could try using an app like Wifi Analyzer to figure out what channel any nearby routers might be using and put your own onto the least crowded one. Also check to see if you have any "Transmit Power" settings you can dial up. If all else fails maybe a new 5GHz router is the way to go.
If you have a black 2016/17 Gear VR model (or S6 Innovator Edition*) you can of course also play clips directly from an attached USB drive or whatever, as per the wiki: https://www.reddit.com/r/gearvr/wiki/faqs#wiki_can_i_use_usb_peripherals.3F
(*for this model obviously a Micro USB OTG adapter is required instead)
Wild guess; you're using wifi. Try a wired connection. If you can't get a wired connection going, use something like the Android app WiFi Analyzer to see how the wifi is in your place. Chances are if you're in a really populated place that you'll have lots of frequencies overlapping. Change your wifi's channel to be something that's empty or has the weakest "competing" signals.
That's not going to work miracles, though. Until we get some MAJOR breakthroughs in technology that everyone adopts, wifi will never be anywhere near as stable or reliable as a direct cable connection.
Okay.. Just in case, download something like Wifi Analyzer to your phone and check the channels of all networks (wireless) in your area. Also, check in your router/wifi access point device that you indeed run in a channel that has at least 5 channels range from the other channels (at least the ones that are really close to you). Most common "best practice" channels are 1, 6, 11 (it's always based on what you have near you). If you still have no success, check if your router/wifi access point gives you the option to change from 2,4GHz to 5GHz. If it does, try to go to the 5GHz band. That way you will probably have less problems with your signal. Last but not least, keep in mind that devices like microwave, wireless telephones and baby monitoring systems, also use the same band @2.4GHz.
Link for lazy
Have you checked the channel of all your connections could be they are all the same and interfering with each other or you may have neighboors that are all on the same channel. (I use the app below to check)
You can use a wifi extender/amp like Roosterru said.
I use an older router attached to my AIO (box)_ then I use the router for the wifi signals -disabling the wifi in the AIO(box).
You still use the wired connections on your AIO(box)-just jump/dump the wireless work to the router/amp.
I use this free app(does have a few small ads) to find the strongest spot-or where it begins to degrade (wifi signal) then place the router /amp there.
I am not paid by these guys -I have used this free version of the app for over 2 years with no issue-just a helpful program.
I am also a fan of FLING for networking issues
I had constant problems for the first 2 weeks after I installed my Ring doorbell. When it worked, it was fine. But at least once a day it would lose connectivity for a few hours. Usually I would first notice that Live View would not connect, but a motion/doorbell event would still come through with live video. Then event notification would sometimes fail too. A few hours later everything would suddenly be working again, although there were a couple of occasions when I had to give up and remove the doorbell and reset it. Ring support blamed WiFi problems, but the WiFi signal strength at the doorbell was always consistently Good, and a cell phone at the doorbell location had no problem communicating with my router even when the doorbell was out of service.
I ended up changing 3 things at about the same time, one of which seems to have fixed the problem, so I'm not sure which one did the trick:
Ring sent me a Ring Chime Pro with WiFi repeater that I installed indoors closer to the doorbell than the router. It didn't improve the WiFi signal strength at the doorbell, but it did change the WiFi channel that the doorbell was using. Maybe the different channel was better?
My router is a Netgear R6300v2. Could the reported problems between the Ring doorbell and Netgear routers be to blame? Why would it work fine for 20 hours in the day and then fail for 4 hours? But switching to the Ring Chime Pro network would mean that the doorbell was no longer connecting directly to my Netgear router.
Ring pushed a new firmware update to my Ring doorbell to be sure it was up to date. Not having noted the firmware version before, I'm not sure this did anything, but it was the last action before things stabilized. I saw one communication drop-out right after installing the Ring Chime Pro and before the firmware update. Since then, no failures.
Did the firmware update help? Did the Ring Chime Pro just happen to change WiFi channels to a better channel? Did a nearby neighbour with an interfering WiFi network go on vacation? Who knows?
I tried surveying the WiFi spectrum at my doorbell location using WiFi Analyzer on my phone to look at signal strength of competing networks (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en). I also tried WiFi Channel Monitor to check out the traffic volume on nearby networks on the same channel (https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_channel_monitor.html). One network is close in signal strength to mine, but doesn't appear to be generating much traffic. The other networks are all much weaker. I guess I'll have to wait for the problem to happen again (if it ever does) before I can do further traffic tests.
Fireup something like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en and make sure you don't have other overlapping APs fighting with it.
Do you live in a densely populated area? Is Ethernet and/or additional access points not an option?
If you have an Android phone, you can check the local network traffic with WiFi Analyzer.
I agree with others, try it yourself to see what works. If 5 GHz works, use it.
Meu carro tem no velocímetro o número 220 Km/h e nem acelerando ladeira abaixo dá para chegar nessa velocidade, no máximo chega a 180.
A velocidade nominal dos roteadores wireless se refere apenas a capacidade deles de empurrar dados. Não significa que alguém vai conseguir receber eles nessa velocidade. Há descontos a serem feitos de frames, cabeçalhos etc. e principalmente, o mundo real: há interferências dos seus vizinhos impedindo que seu roteador chegue a velocidades altas (recomendo esse app para que você enxergue visualmente a interferência), há paredes, portas, superfícies que refletem sinal etc.
Enfim, seu roteador doméstico nunca chegará nos 100 Mbps no protocolo 802.11 a/b/g/n.
Quanto a placa de rede, a de seu computador possivelmente é gigabit já, a não ser que seu computador seja mmmuuuitto antigo. E se for, é para ele chegar sim 100 Mbps. Via cabeado dá para confiar sim que a velocidade nominal seja alcançada.
5ghz is usually prioritized because it offers higher bandwidth, although shorter range. A simple tool like WiFi analyser would be a good indicator of the type and bands used by the router and also give you a more accurate comparison between devices.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en and speed test.
I wish they had a "wifi analyzer" equivalent that was as good for iOS.
Grab WiFi analyser, perform a quick survey in your house and change the channel.on your router to the least populated before you buy any additional hardware. I suspect this will resolve your issue.
Play store link https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
This is not available on IOS.
Use a scanning app like Wifi Analyzer to see which channels are clear.
Might be worth checking if your wifi signal isn't overlapping with any of your neighbours. I know you're quite modern in the northern wastelands, but your neighbours maybe catching you up. Wifi Analyzer will show you.
Have you tried network cables from the PCs to the router as well? Might pick some shit from Mrs HPB for dangling cables around the house, but worth checking if it still does it when using wired ethernet.
If you have an android device, try Wifi Analyzer. It will look at 2.4G and 5G showing you the relative signal strength of each signal it picks up. This way you can select a channel that may be less used. In most cities, you won't find any free channels, so you then need to make your signal the strongest.
That is one reason people would suggest another router, access point, or a powerline adapter. All of these options will allow you to increase the signal strength where you need it most.
Hope that helps out.
> It happens with other WiFi networks as well (told by 2 neighbours + one unprotected network)
>Could also be your network card, as it seems to be the common denominator
How much do you trust your neighbors and do you have any other device you can test with?
This will be a good read -
Edit: Grab something like WiFi Analyzer to see what channels are in use - and possibly saturated
I use this one on my phone for checking for interference. It'll show you all available access points. AFAIK there are no iPhone equivalents without jailbreaking as Apple doesn't make that data available via any APIs.
Install this. make sure there's no interference on the wifi channel you're using.
You too, OP.
Got an android phone? Good, download this and have a look at which channels are the most congested. Once you've done that, log into your router and change the WiFi channel to something that isn't used as much.
By spectrum I meant the air waves carrying wifi signal.Usually there are 11 channels and most routers use a set default channel.So that wifi channel can become crowded.
Try using this app and see where your network is among them.If it is overlapping a lot, change to a less crowded channel using the router setup page.
Step 1: Download WiFi analyzer and do a site survey. Speed drops in relation to signal quality.
The farthest point will have the worst signal. Your options are to get an external directional antenna to boost endpoint signal. Install a repeater. Or run a cable.
If a direct connection is fine try changing the frequencies on your router, I had a similar problem because I was getting interference on the frequency that was set. You can use an app like Wifi analyzer to check which ranges are clear in your area.
The best option for the router is to be in the middle of the house, in an open area. Tucked in things will reduce the signal since the signal can bounce off things and walls. Do not put the router where the kitchen would be in a direct line to where you would use the wifi (ie : Bedroom ---- Kitchen ---- Router). Use a wifi signal tracker to check which channel you can use to have less interference. ie (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en). Do not put the Router near the entertainment system.
Of course YMMV. I mean I had it there for months too and it was perfectly fine whenever I played in the same room and even in the faraway room. But if you play a game where it is really latency sensible (ie: diablo 3, rocket league, etc) you might see a lot of lag, even if your laptop says it's on maximum signal strength.
Of course, depends on the strength of the antennas as well, and other things.
Recommended distance from TV is 15 feet.
Try a wifi analyzer app on your phone. Something like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_GB
Will help identify if there's another wireless network on the same channel which might be causing interference
There are a lot of factors to consider when using wireless. If you're in a densely populated community as well as using the very common wireless G or N standard, there may be a lot of interference from neighbors. If this is the case, switching channels on your router may help a little bit (and cost you nothing).
Some things to look up:
Google "how to switch channels on router".
Use the Wifi Analyzer tool to select the least used channels. (I have Android so I can't give you an iOS equivalent)(https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en)
Aside from this, there aren't any no cost methods to increase your speeds.
First thing to check is you download speed using a speed checker like www.speedtest.net, while connected using your wifi.
Post your results after this has been run.
After, plug your machine into the router using an ethernet cable and run the same test, post the results.
you can check the wifi channels in use in your area. you can download a nifty app on your mobile that will tell you how busy the channels are in your area. install this application on your mobile and post the graph you see.
WiFi Analyzer might be what you're looking for. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Have you tried relocating the router to another place in your home? Also how are the channels looking like as you move through the house?
Personally I use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer as I'm on Android and there is a tool that you can watch the levels as you walk around your house.
Few things to note. If you have any enhancement features enabled on your router, disable them. These are things like QoS, or anything else that is supposed to be extra bonus features outside of a standard router function. Any other unessessary features can be disabled as well. Routers are like mini computers. The more load you can take off of them, the better they will perform. So if you have any services running on it, you can disable. EG - USB Ports, Media server functionality, etc.
Secondly, what bitrate are you using, and what are the other settings your are using in Riftcat?
You can also use an app like:
This will tell you how crowded your 2.4Ghz and 5.0Ghz channels are. Find something isolated, or set your router to auto.
Lastly, do you have the standard version of the Rifcat app installed as well? If not, get that installed so you can change some settings at the phone end.
Hope some of this helps!
Use an ethernet cable if you are able. The source of your ping fluctuations is between your router (the first row) and modem (second row), which you can see by looking at the 'worst' column.
WiFi Analyzer (Google Play Store Link) has worked well for me in the past. If you don't have an Android device, I'll ask around for some suggestions for iOS.
There's a view in WiFi Analyzer where you can see all of the networks in range, the channel they're currently using and the signal strength. If the network in question is on channel 1, 6 or 11 and has high signal strength, I'd bet the "repeater left behind" idea holds water. You can use another view in the app to see the signal strength for just one SSID, which is the perfect thing to use while you walk around your house. When you hit a point where the signal strength is maxed out, you're probably in the same room as the repeater.
Well okay the easiest way is just downloading an app like wifi analyzer <em>click</em> and then look at your wifi channel :D
Use this tool on an android phone/tablet to see what your environments look like and help you pick the best channel to park your router on:
20ft away with direct line should work well with wi-fi. That is how mine is set up and I can even gamestream at 4k. 4k hdr video runs flawlessly. what router do you have? I don't believe it is shield issue unless you just got a bad unit.try https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en on your phone in the location of shield
Is it safe to assume this is an apartment then? It's possible your router is using a channel that is absolutely swamped and you're getting shitty performance.
If you have an Android phone, you may want to use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer to check it out. I'm not sure if there is anything on iOS to test.
Fing is another Network app that may be able to provide you with some important wireless information - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.overlook.android.fing
This thread is full of terrible advice, sorry.
>Edit: 100 MBs not GBs. That is a minor difference I suppose.
That's a massive difference. And you meant 100Mbps. :)
You're paying for 100 megabits per second. This is abbreviated as 100Mbps, NOT 100MBps (which means 100 megabytes per second -- 1 megabyte = 1MB, 1 megabit = 1/8MB). Your expected speed in megabytes per second is (100 / 8) = 12.5. This is important because speedtest results usually show megabits per second, whereas most other apps (Steam downloads, browser downloads, torrent clients, etc.) will show megabytes per second.
The most likely reason your connection is slow through your phone is not ISP-level throttling, it's WiFi issues. First of all, figure out whether your're connected to your router through 2.4GHz or 5GHz WiFi. The latter will give much better speeds, especially if a fair number of people with WiFi routers live near you (ex. closely-packed neighborhood or apartment complex).
The more people using a channel the same as yours or close to yours, the more interference will be present. Interference will cause slower speeds on WiFi-connected devices. Here's how you can diagnose this:
Download WiFi Analyzer for Android.
Find this screen in the app. This screenshot is an example of a LOT of wireless interference, which will cause slow speeds for anyone using any of these networks.
This is an example of minimal interference, if you're using the red or green networks. People using the networks in the middle will probably see some interference issues. If you'll notice, there's a button at the top-left corner of this screen which lets you toggle from 2.4GHz to 5GHz. Check whether you can see your network on the 5GHz tab.
Interference is most likely causing your problems. There are a few options to fix it:
If your router only supports 2.4GHz (you can check in its control panel), then use WiFi Analyzer to find the least crowded channel and then set that channel in your router control panel. There's another screen in WiFi Analyzer which gives every channel a 1-10 star rating; choose the channel with the most stars. If there isn't really a good option, consider buying a new router which supports 5GHz.
If your router supports 5GHz, make sure your device is connected to the 5GHz network (some routers can broadcast on BOTH 2.4 and 5GHz at the same time, and your device could be using the former). Also make sure you've used WiFi analyzer to find an empty 5GHz channel to put your router on, as interference can still happen (but there are a lot more channels to choose from).
If your device is more than ~4 years old, there's a chance it doesn't support 5GHz networks even if your router does. In this case, you'll have to live with the 2.4 speeds until you can upgrade it.
Spectrum is getting sued by New York because they bought TWC who was already getting sued prior to the merger. It was already an issue before Charter bought them and rebranded to Spectrum.
As far as for a wifi analyzer if you have an android...
How crowded is your wifi enviroment.you can analyse the wifi enviroment and chose the less crowded channel.install wifi analyser on your phone and run testHow crowded is your wifi enviroment.you can analyse the wifi enviroment and chose the less crowded channel.install wifi analyser on your phone and run tests
Sounds like there could be interference from another signal, most likely another router. If you have an Android phone, I highly recommend the app Wifi Analyzer to check which channel is the least crowded and switch your router to that channel.
Make sure you are using 5 GHz and check that the channel is clear with something like WiFi Analyzer. Your new router could be using a more congested channel. Also check your channel width settings.
I would try changing the wireless channels on the Nighthawk as it may be experiencing interference. Usually Channel 11 for 2.4ghz is the least crowded but it may vary.
If you have an android phone you can get the Wifi Analyzer App to see what channels are being used in your area. You can also use inSSIDer Free on a Windows laptop to check the same thing. Pick a channel that has the lowest number of wifi networks in the area on it, or has the weakest signals of surrounding wifi networks.
Is one of the apps I use on android, just to check channel overlap, and signal strength.
A little bit of poking around should net you more apps than that.
If your laptop has a pcmcia slot for expansion cards, then consider getting a more dedicated wifi adapter to troubleshoot (More dedicated than a usb dongle):
Newegg pcmcia cards
Yeah, it'll show up without a name.
I use Wifi Analyzer. Hidden networks show up as a peak with no name associated to it.
Don't rent modems/routers. Buy your own. Please.
you're talking about your wireless router? 2.4Ghz (the frequency most wireless devices talk on these days - barring some newer stuff) can go through walls pretty well. it does not go through wet things (water, plants, people) very well and does degrade with each wall it passes through but you'd have to get to 3ish to notice the losses most of the time. YMMV of course because of radio interference and such. I suggest hooking your router to a long cable (if possible) and moving it around to see where you get the best signal throughout your place. I personally use wifi analyzer to help with that.
As long as you're using an Android device, download Wifi Analyzer.
Open the screen that looks like this.
If you see the parabola that represents your home wifi signal shrink when you walk into that room, you have interference in the room due to environmental factors (pipes, ducts, whatever). If you see another parabola grow and overlap it, you have interference from some other wifi signal.
Be aware that this only checks for 802.11 signals- anything other type of wireless device on the 2.4 Ghz band is not checked via this app.
If you don't have Android but you do have Windows there's a version from another company that's probably compatible with your laptop. If you use Apple products exclusively, sorry about your luck- iThingies lock this ability behind a paid app, but you sort of expected that when you bought one.
Draw a quick map of your house, then download WiFi Analyzer. Walk to different areas of your house and write down the dbm. Then (optionally) use a few colored pencils to map signal strength. -35-40 is excellent, -80 and beyond is no good
If your wireless is on one side of the house, naturally the other side of the house is going to get lower signal. If you buy another router, make it more centrally located. If you have CAT5/6 going to different rooms, buy an AP or two
Edit: Also, sticking a wireless device in a panel, in the basement is the worst idea imaginable
What is your square footage?
Do you have a floor plan you can post?
so your equipment are trying to connect the being disconnected.set your wifi on a different less crowded channel and see if it works (just play around with the channels untill you find the best).are there many wireless equipment around your area?.You can load this on your android phone and get the best channel to set your wifi
WiFi is dependent on other factors such as how many walls between your device you are connecting with and what they are made of etc.
You can also look into what channels are being used by other networks in your area then swap to one that is not being used at that time.
If you have an andoid phone you can use Wifi Analyzer to see what comes up and check you signal strength whilst you are at it.
Yeah, I was kind of thinking that WiFi reliability/signal could be the most likely culprit. If you have an Android device there are free WiFi scanners you can get from Google Play store. I got this one called WiFi Analyzer:
802.11ac is the latest standard, with the expensive stuff being Wave 2, which... let's just say they had to invent a new ethernet speed to keep from having multiple links to the APs.
802.11n is tricky. With MIMO, it can get up to a theoretical 600Mbit/sec. Since most devices can't do MIMO, though, you're limited to probably around 40Mbit/sec in the 2.4GHz band, depending on your settings, and a bit more in the 5GHz band (again, settings permitting). Functionally, I've seen situations where I get 40Mbit/sec throughput in 2.4GHz on a good day, and 150+Mbit/sec in 5GHz. This is within 10 feet of the AP however, and 5GHz isn't the greatest for going through walls, so you're range limited more than 2.4GHz is - that's why we all keep using it.
I would take a look at your current throughput on the wifi and see if you can get a feel for what you're getting now, and WHY you're having problems. For example, live in a city or moderately crowded suburb? Chances are someone just moved in nearby or "upgraded" their router (or worse, cranked the power on their existing one, thereby creating massive interference for everyone else). Here's what I'd recommend from that end.
Get something like Wifi Analyzer for Android (Or there's a Windows version for Win10 if you have it). See how crowded your airspace actually is and if there's any explanation for the cause. Because spending money on an AP that gets better reception, when you're being crowded out, is no fun at all.
Set up iPerf on your main PC and one of your laptops (there's android clients too, I think), and use it to test throughput on your current wireless. Keep in mind, I actually started doing homelab stuff and set up an HTPC because I couldn't get a wire to my PS3 and couldn't stream anything 720p or higher over wireless N; that was in a condo complex of course so the airspace was terrible, but even so. At least you'll have something to compare with once you get the new gear.
Install this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
If there are a bunch of networks on top of yours, then you have interference. Try to find a channel that is mostly unused, but stick to 1, 6, or 11.
If you have an Android device I would highly recommend this app. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
Good video to go along with it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgfoGg-g9Sc
I wouldn't be surprised if you get bumped down to 15 mbps when you move. Often times, you can wind up with the old connection speed of previous tenants even though you're being billed at a different rate. In your case, you seem pretty lucky to be getting double your paid for speed.
As for the wifi coverage of the house, before purchasing anything, I would scope out the current wifi coverage there. 1400 sq foot, 3 story house, sounds like it might be a city home or at the very least a house that might be fairly close to other houses. If you have an android device, a rooted iPhone or a laptop, there are tools out there to check out what kind of wifi signals are in your area, what channel they're on, strength, etc. When I had my Nexus 6, I used this tool.
Something to also keep in mind, the more walls the signal passes through, the more interference you're going to have. Good wifi depends on many variables, so adding more obstacles for the signal helps nothing. Having it travel to multiple floors will be challenging for 1 router. My house has 3 levels as well. I currently use this router. I wound up buying a wireless extender to try and have my signal reach all 3 levels of my house. It works, however, an extender effectively halves your speed, so this might not be desirable (depending on what you need speed-wise). Additionally, not all software/hardware will play nicely with an extender (I see some disconnects sometimes from my work VPN). I finally got fed up with this and purchase 500' of Cat 6 cable and I'm going to begin wiring up my house. I need more speed and better coverage. WiFi is just too unreliable for me.
SO, while cables are not always an attractive option, don't rule them out. It might be less headache in the long run. There are companies that will run the cable for you so you don't have to get your hands dirty.
Hope some (any) of this info helps!
I use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer to check out wireless network signals etc.
Also use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.zwanoo.android.speedtest to check Internet speeds
These are both handy when I'm out at a customer's place. Also, I use my phone to quickly Google for an answer sometimes too.
I would check what channels are being used by others in the vicinity, a handy app for this can be had on multiple platforms
They may even recommend the best channel for you to use. If you have the option use the 5GHz band as this is faster and has a shorter range, it is also less used than the 2.4GHz band. Make sure your access point and WiFi card support 802.11AC which is the newest standard and will allow use of 5Ghz
How many bars of WiFi signal are you seeing?
Try this app on a smartphone, you may see that you are on a congested channel, or that the signal is simply too weak.
Try updating the firmware.
Also try changing the channel. If you have an Android device you can use WiFi Analyzer to find the best channel.
I'm really only ~5-8 meters away from the router through the wall, so I doubt it's interference, especially since my PC has been in this set up for the past 2 years with no problems.
The spike does not occur on my phone, which leads me to believe I have some hardware problem with my network adapter, (is this plausible?).
The Wifi-Analyser app i've been using shows no other networks on the same channel as mine, and i've experimented changing channels anyway.
If you have an Android phone, use the app Wifi Analyzer to see whether too many of your neighbors are clogging the 2.4 GHz wifi spectrum in your apartment building.
You may need to get a new wifi router (or gateway, if renting from Charter) that supports 5.0 GHz (usually as 802.11 AC). There will be less interference from neighbors and less buffering.
To test whether the problem is wifi or your modem, directly plug a Cat 6 Ethernet cable from your modem to your device and see if you still have bad buffering.
Use WiFi Analyzer and make sure your network isn't set to a channel that a lot of other networks are on. And use 5GHz instead of 2.4GHz if your router supports it.
Download Wifi Analyzer on your phone. Are there more wifi networks where you live?
Can you run a bandwidth test on a laptop using the 2.4 Ghz band? If you are in an apartment with a lot competing networks you could run into slowdowns, but if it is fairly clear you shouldn't have any problems. You could also use a wifi analyzer app to make sure your router is on a good channel.
Still may be worth to install this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en and look at what other networks are using your wifi channels.
The stock WiFi client under Android doesn't distinguish between network points with the same SSID. I'd recommend installing and using WiFi Analyser as this allows you to expand a given SSID if it has multiple networks.
Don't know the equivalent under iOS I'm afraid.
I have 250u, I typically get 320 down with the smaller hops.
If you must use wifi, then get the wifi analyzer app and make sure you're connected to the channel with the least interference.
I assume that you're only having issues at home? Maybe you or your neighbour has leaky microwave? We need something more to tell what's happening with your wifi:
You've shown speedtest results. This may be the problem not only with the WiFi but also with your internet connection.
You should check and see if you are on a crowded wireless channel and if your router supports it, change it to a less crowded channel. If you are on Windows 10 there is the Wifi Analyzer app, or on Android
Ok in these situations you need to try the following.
Get wifi analyser from the app store:
Check the channel of the router and that it's not congested.
If the channel is free, turn off all other wifi devices so that only the testing unit is connected. Test throughput again, you'll notice that it's the same as before due to the fact that those routers are pretty nasty and wifi on average has a throughput of about 20mbps unless your using a multi-radio router (that one is not). Sometimes you'll get a handshake connection that states >70mbps but thats just handshake not throughput.
I'm a network engineer by trade, out of all the routers I've ever installed the 2 best for wifi throughput are:
And even those listed above will not sustain anything above 60mbps when over 15 meters away from the unit, but they can handle multiple connection at that throughput..
From what I see thats not that good of a router wifi quality wise looking at reviews so that might contribute to the problem, though I am NOT an expert on them.
Though a few things might help, Are you in a populated area where lots of other routers would be close, like apartments and such? If so changing the channel on the router page might help, only do channel 1, 6 or 11 though for your routers 2.4 ghz. You can also try updating the routers firmware if you haven't do so already.
Both of those options can be tried from logging into your router, right click on the connection icon on your PC/laptop in the lower right corner of your start bar, click open network and sharing center, click on the internet your connected to, should open a smaller window, click details on that one, and look for IPv4 Default Gateway that will be the IP you'll log into to enter your router, open a browser and type that in, refer to your routers manual for the default username/password... (most are usually admin/password), once logged on you can see if there is any firmware updates, and try changing the routers 2.4 ghz channel. You can download a wifi analyzer to find out if 1, 6, or 11 is the best channel in your area. Here's an android one, and a windows 10 one
From personal experience, phones can be used to measure the effects of EMF-shielding before and after shielding - by measuring how much WiFi/Phone reception drops with apps such as "WiFi Analyzer" or "WiFi Analyser". It is probably the closest you'll get to an "EMF Reader".
Values are measured in dB.
Almost true. At least on my oven, which is a "Matsui". The model number is "MAT SMW17E" if it should be relevant. I also tested this before going full-scale.
My microvawe is ~2 feet, or 60cm from the main modem/repeater, measured center to center, and my Samsung goes from full bars on Wifi and -42dBm, to one bar and -81dBm, measured with WiFi Analyzer when I close the door.
In my particular case, I did not lose any phone reception inside the oven, but as I have mentioned in this thread, it must have something to do with the towers my phone connect to; I lose connectivity to one when I test inside F. C. or oven, but not the other.
By the way, your quote was from badbiosvictim1 (link to comment inside), and not me, though you observations may be accurate.
As others are saying, the Wi-Fi and cell signal status indicators show signal strength. It maps a signal strength value of negative dBm to a visual representation, usually some kind of segmented icon (e.g. bars).
More bars has no correlation on faster Internet speed, but fewer bars has a correlation with slower Internet speed. You can be connected to a Wi-Fi access point that is saturated with active users where you'll see full bars and painfully slow Internet. You could also be the only device connected but with weak signal strength and slow Internet.
To get a better idea of what the bars mean, download an app like Wifi Analyzer that has a signal strength meter. This will show you a live display of signal strength measured in dBm along with a color scale. Watch the meter and compare to your operating system's Wi-Fi status indicator.
For a modern Android phone, full bars is -40 dBm or better, rated as "Signal strength: Excellent" in Wi-Fi settings. Half bars is in the neighborhood of -70 dBm, "Signal strength: Fair."
You can then use an Internet speed test (search Google for "speed test" for one provided by Google) and see the relationship between your signal strength and the actual speed available to you at your location.
If you are using wireless than this is for you. The other they my pings got very bad, it was one of my neighbors. Living in apartments with each of us with a routers starts to make the network channels crowded. First you need to get in your router, change the channel to manual, not automatic. Than pick a channel which has less traffic. Also channels below 8 are faster but lower range, and above slower but higher range. In my case 3 was the best channel. You may need to do a try and error, till you feel your ping is back to normal
I use this Android app Wifi Analyser https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
For Android phones, you can get something like this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en and it will show every network near or around you.
Based on the comments / your responses, I'd say your problem is definitely the 2.4 Ghz band being too crowded. You can download an app for your phone like wifi analyzer to easily figure out which band is the least crowded:
Then change your router to work on that band.
My Chromecast runs perfect, Plex, music, Netflix, YouTube, everything at 1080p with no stuttering, 25 mbit internet connection, 5 Ghz.
If you're in a condo or similar, you should consider upgrading to a router with 5 Ghz. In condos / dense buildings, there are often just too many wifi signals to get a decent connection on the 2.4 Ghz band.
EDIT, I just re-read your post, what do you mean
> using a tethered connection
Do you mean wired? or using other device like your phone to connect to the Internet? tethering uses WiFi as well.
Do you have any other devices to try the network? If so, do you notice any differences?
Can you please do a speed test here and here using the Wifi network? And if you can connect with a cable, do you see any improvement?
Can you scan the channels using a wifi analyzer, like this for android and check if the channel your router uses is crowded?
PS, hide your IP from the speed test.
Can you download the app Wifi Analyzer and post the different views. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en
Try this to see if you can locate access points nearby using this.
As @seinman said, don't waste your time trying to hack it, get a wired one.
On to the problem about too much wifi signals. try to find a channel with the least traffic:
I haven't really kept up with what's good in powerline but there's plenty of reviews out there, if it's got plenty of reviews on Amazon and 4*+ rating you should be golden.
> I feel like i started having issues ever since my neighbours on both sides got decent internet/routers. I was one of the first in the street that got fiberglass installed. Could this have anything to do with it?
It definitely could, especially if you're using 2.4GHz as there's only 3 non-overlapping bands available (1,6,11) and if multiple access points are on the same frequency they have to compete for air time with eachother. If you've got an Android device you can use this app to see what channel your neighbours are on, else you can just try switching it in your routers options to another of the bands and see if it's any better.
Sometimes yes and sometimes no. When I was using my ISP provided router/modem while the coverage was great the actual router itself couldn't handle too many devices, causing disconnects every now and then. I then replaced it with an Asus RT-AC68U router which was far more stable and got rid of the stuttering issues I had with my gen 1 Chromecast when mirroring.
Another thing to check is interference as well, if there are too many wifi networks around your area, it can make your own one unstable. You can use Wifi Analyzer to check, and help you pick the least congested channel which should help with stability.
Download WiFi Analyzer run it while walking around the entire space keeping an eye on what networks it can see how the airwaves look on your phone and then decide on a wireless channel and stick to it. Because of how Wireless signals work - while there are 12 - 13 channels to pick from, you will always get best performance on Channels 1, 6 and 11 (and 13 if you can use it) providing no-one else is using them.https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
That's Google play store.
Find best channel for 2.5 and 5
The further you are way from a router can effect speed/signal strength . It makes more of a difference if your in an network overcrowded area, having them close helps power though. A good little app to check for signal overcrowding (signal strength) and suggesting the best channel can be found here
Sorry for not replying directly. I was asleep, just woke up out of nowhere and saw your message. So quickly replying before I head back to bed. 2:38 AM here! xD
> I noticed that those are all static pressure fans. Wouldn't I want to get AF fans for the top and rear of the case?
Correct, however I did forgot to mention "why" I picked those thermaltake fans.
I said that I "mostly" did it for the looks. The thermaltake fans are indeed SP fans, which means they work best on a radiator or cooler.
So why the heck do I still suggest to use 1 for the case?
Because airflow speed is really not extremely important anymore these days, because both the CPU & GPUs don't run extremely hot anymore.
This is why most fans can run at near silent levels (or if you have good fans & case, you won't hear them at all) because they simply don't need to run that fast or move a lot of air to keep the temperatures in check.
Only when the CPU & GPU need to work hard (when you game) the case fans need to spin a bit faster to "move" more air. The air movement is really important. Fresh or cool air needs to enter the case while the hot air that the CPU & GPU "expose" needs to be pushed out. This happens naturally by increasing fan speeds. The higher the CFM the more air they move, yes.
So why did I suggest such low CFM fans? Because even that low number, is enough to keep your card it's temperatures cool enough.
While a higher CFM would likely be able to lower the temperature of the card by about.. 2C, you're trading silence or cost or looks of the fan for it. Which I did not find worth it, which is why I suggested this fan.
Here is a good video about case fans and how many you need?
And here is an other great video that looks at my exact point as well. That case fan CFM or whatever, doesn't really make a huge difference in temperatures..
This video is hilarious.. It also shows you why case fans aren't super duper important anymore in terms of temperatures. As long as there is "some air" moving, the temperature won't change much.
The cooling performance is highly affected by the actually coolers on the GPU & CPU themselves!
> I think I'll hold off on buying the fans for the radiator since the Enermax ones seem to be good fans that also seem to push a little more air than the Thermaltake ones. I don't think color will matter there because they'll be hidden anyway.
The performance will roughly be the same, but the fans will just look cooler! You could technically place the fans like this. Both directions would work, push or pull. Meaning the way the air flows through the radiator. Temperature wise it won't hugely affect it, but when you place them in push (which is the way it is, in that picture) the temperature of the CPU will be a bit higher, while the GPU will be a bit lower.
When you set them in pull, the CPU will be slightly cooler and the GPU a bit higher.
In terms of the light, it's true that they're pretty much hidden, but the LED strips will provide the color pretty well if you place them the way I said above. Which will make them light up the other parts of your system pretty nicely. I mean, it's absolutely not required to buy for sure, I mean.. in terms of performance, it makes very little difference at all.
Which is again, why I said that I mostly did it "for the looks".
> For the cables, I think I'd rather get a basic kit than an extension kit and have to worry about cable management. Let me know if you know anywhere else to buy a basic kit in that red or white color.
I actually only know that you can buy them from EVGA, but those are pretty expensive and really, for the couple of cables that actually will be visible, it's probably not worth it.
In terms of extensions, I personally use them and.. my case got pretty much NO room for cable management, but I still managed somehow.. yes my side panel has a bit of a bulge, but fuck it my front looks awesome!
> I will also buy that wireless adapter. In the near future I will also be updating my modem/router.
Good news, a router is really not that expensive anymore! You can buy them extremely cheap, but I do recommend to spend a decent amount for at least something that is "good enough".
I am certain that both of these 2 routers would likely fix a lot of your troubles. They're also very easy to setup and you can kick your IPS in the butt for providing you with such garbage.
> I don't intend to spend a bunch of money on it either, as I'm the only one using it besides maybe my phone or my girlfriend's phone. So I don't need one that has tons of features to split the internet between people.
I highly recommend you to download the free app "WiFi Analyser". This app will very likely surprise you, but the network that you're using (you need to know the name of your WiFi), is very likely overlapping with other networks around the house from neighbours or other devices that send data, such as.. radios, TVs, washing machines, some fridges, microphones, etc. There are a lot more things in your home than you might expect that could potentially send out data and thus interfering with the connect of your device with the router.
This is why the 5GHz network will very likely solve this issue, right away. Because the 5GHz network (compared to the standard 2.4GHz) is not used very widely.. yet. Thus the chance of other devices interfering with the connection is very slim. Which makes the connection much stronger.
> I will also buy an anti-static wristband for assembly.
Good idea, those are cheap anyway. If you don't know how to "connect" them. You have to connect them to a point that is earthed to the ground for the best result.
How I generally do it, is by connecting a PSU cable into the wall socket directly, that I know is earthed. Us Europeans use an other socket, we have that pin sticking out which is our earth pin.
Then I plug the cable into the PSU and keep the PSU turned off, by doing this.. the PSU is now connected by earth and the "housing" is also earthed. Thus I can clip the anti-static wrist band to the PSU and be earthed as well.
> Anything else I may be forgetting? I believe the enermax cooler comes with thermal paste already so I think I'm all set to go!
Nope, perhaps a screwdriver (preferably magnetic!).
Don't worry about "magnets" for PC, the magnets inside screwdrivers are nowhere near strong enough to harm PC parts, not even a HDD. I've been using a magnetic screwdriver for my whole life when building PCs. Haven't had anything die yet by using it.
Of course, the stronger the magnet, the bigger the chance, but I don't think a screwdriver can kill it. I have some extremely strong screwdrivers (for work).. I could test it! I have a few HDDs that I don't care about anymore if they die!
Maybe your neighbour got a new router and now broadcasts on the same WLAN channel? If you have an Android device you can try this Wifi Analyser and see if there's a free channel you can use. Maybe that will help a bit.
Install this and see what the congestion is like
Look at the channels tab and see if your router is on a channel that is very congested.
Also see if you can make a different SSID for the 5ghz radio.
Got an android device?
Install and run this, post screenshots:
WiFi repeaters can work but they are generally not amazing performance wise. Needs to be positioned in good strength WiFi of the original access point to work properly so often it's hard to actually get a significant range boost with one. Of course if you run ethernet to one, then it should be just fine.
Buying a new router and putting it in the same place as the existing AT&T one probably won't get you that much better range unless the provided one is monumentally garbage. The limiting factor tends to be the output power legally allowed and even pretty cheap access points will be throwing out as much as they can.
Transferring the signal through AC, normally called Powerline Ethernet, is typically very reliable and relatively fast. Basic kits that should be capable of providing real world performance enough to max out your internet at around 30Mbit aren't particularly expensive. Amazon have a wide range with a lot of solid customer reviews.
Personally, I'd first walk around the house with some sort of WiFi analyser or at least something that can show you actual signal strength and see where signal drops off significantly. Think about what might be in the walls between you and the AP as you do so, a wall with a lot of metal in it could cause a big drop in signal whereas one with none should cause quite little and you want to try and position any new access point in such a way you will mitigate these. If you find you have a lot of low signal areas, you'll probably want another access point, whether by a repeater, a standalone access point or another router. If you only have one particular problem room, powerline ethernet is probably a good option.
As for DNS, you could just leave it set to Google DNS permanently or it seems a simple batch script can handle it.
First of all, Ethernet will always be faster, but only getting ~5% of your speed isn't normal. Try some of these:
If none of these work, then it's out of my knowledge.
Your wifi router gets set to a channel. Your laptop doesn't get set and can use a wifi access point on any channel. Most likely your wifi router was set to a bad channel that had many other wifi routers in-range on the same channel drowning it out. This frequently causes the described symptoms of being there, but being unable to connect, flaky connections, and working for a short period after power-cycling the wifi router. Try logging into your wifi router and changing the channel it is set to, you may find it works much better. I use a free Android app called Wifi Analyzer on my phone to see what wifi access points are in-range, and what is the least used channel to get the most reliable reception. There are many free alternatives to Wifi Analyzer. Here you can see a screen shot of what it looks like and really visualize the common problem of wifi channel congestion.
Is it possible someone has set the same SSID (network name) as your network?
edit: There are WiFi scanners available for phones that will list the BSSID (the MAC address of the AP) of visible APs. You can check with one of those for duplicate SSIDs. The MAC address of your modem/router is usually printed on it (make sure to find the AP MAC and not the WAN MAC). WiFi Analyzer is one I have used in the past.
edit2: So the residential gateway is wrong on both wired and wireless?
> I guess the local network bandwith is limited by the router (300Mbps) and the 2 wifi chips from sender/recevier devices?
Yes, that and the number of devices you have connected, and the amount of WiFi devices near you using the same or overlapping WiFi channel(s).
You can use an app like WiFi Analyzer to see the other WiFi APs near you and try changing the channel on your router to one that's less used. Try to stick to channel 1, 6, or 11 for 2.4Ghz WiFi, as they are three channels that don't overlap in any way.
I'd suggest using a 5Ghz AP if there are a lot of 2.4Ghz devices around, but the Chromecast 1 doesn't support 5ghz.
A quick test of network bandwidth would be copying a file from one computer to another (or a phone). Otherwise you should be able to work out roughly how fast your WiFi is operating by tapping the WiFi network name in android settings, or somehow on your Linux machine (it'd depend on what distro I guess).
One router should be able to handle your 20 total devices. But if you plan on growing your farm you should add an access point (I use this one for $22) and it handles 20 devices. My main router ($30) handles 10 devices running MLB.tv, Netflix, online gaming and a few beermoney apps. And all on 65 Mbps connection with very little slowdown.
Like I said, your router should be able to handle what you have. People have mentioned before, but try switching your WiFi channel by logging into your router.
I had a similar issue of huge slow downs but changing the channel fixed it. Download the android app WiFi Analyzer to see how many other networks are being used in your area and choose the one with the fewest congestion. Other forms of interference like baby monitors and other household appliances don't show up on that app so make sure to test all three non-overlapping channels (1,6,11) before going out and buying an access point or new router. I'm pretty sure my issue involved a baby monitor on channel 11 and switching to 1 solved all the lag.
Also, if your router is dual band, try moving as many devices over to the 5GHz WiFi as you can.
Lastly, if none of that works, your DNS might be slow which happens every once in a while when using an ISPs default DNS servers. You can use namebench to find the best DNS server then go into your router and change your DNS settings.
EDIT: And rebooting your modem's probably not a bad thing to try.
Without doing an investigation of the area, the easiest fix is getting a powerline device.
Decent pricing on Amazon for TP-link:
If you're curious to see what other signals are on channels around you, this is a good app.
Wifi Analyzer - it shows the nearby access points and what channel their on. You can determine which channel is the most "open" so you get less interference. Most routers have the channel set to "auto" to try and determine the best one, but I find it doesn't always work perfectly
DiskUsage - Shows you in a simple, visual what what is taking up all that precious storage on your device/SD card.
Well, that could be low - depending on what speed it's supposed to be!
If it's not seeing the Wireless network at all, that's going to be unrelated to any network speed between the router and the outside world. If you have an Android phone, grab yourself a Wireless diagnostic app - Wifi Analyzer is the one I use.
You can take this around the house to see how the signal