Wifi analyser. Many wifi routers are using a factory default channel, meaning you can end up in situation where most wifi in an apartment building are basically jamming each others.

Also gives you cool graphs so even your grandma can understand the issue.

You download the app WiFi analyzer on your phone, check out which channels are super full, then you go to your routers wireless settings, change the channel to manual and choose a channel which no other WiFi networks. Done.

Edit: WiFi Analyzer by Farproc https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Edit2: Its because the WiFis interfere with each other and get slower exponentially the further you are away from the router, because the relatively stronger signals from the other router interfere your signal. Doesnt matter when you have a small 55 m² apartment like i do, but if you have connection problems over a longer distance you can probably solve the problem by doing what i mentioned above.

If you still have a bad connection dont use WiFi-Extending-Shitunits and better use an Accespoint and lay a long cable properly once instead of the hazzle of always resetting and repositioning the extenders. These guys mostly cause more trouble and extend the bad signal they get. If you still want to use one of those atleast use them in the MIDDLE between your Router and the Computer using it. Not right next to the Computer, otherwise it will tune up the shit signal and your computer will show you 10/10 WiFi but internet is still not good.

Edit3: I forgot DLan - Internet over your power line, but it depends hardly on the wiring on your house but maybe its worth a look. I dont know many people that had a really good connection with that. E.g. you turn on the microwave and your character in CS:GO is porting through CT spawn because of that lol

Obligatory sorry 4 bad engrish am not mothertonk and drunken litel bit

If we're talking wifi specifically, do a wifi spectrum analysis with a free app and discover what channels your neighbors' networks are operating on. Change your router's settings and make sure yours is on the least crowded channel. You'll have less interference and should have better connectivity.

Edit: If you're using your phone to run the spectrum analysis, check out Wifi Analyzer. If you're doing it from your laptop or PC, check out Wifi Info View.

Generally stick to channels 1, 6, or 11 if you can. If not, check your throughput with the router set to other channels to see if any of them are better than where you started.

And yes, operating on the 5GHz spectrum is preferable above all other options. 802.11ac operates only in the 5GHz band.

It's got to be the Wifi. When you're in this "portal" you're near a wifi AP with an SSID / MAC that matches one in Atlanta GA. MAC addresses are supposed to be unique, but when manufacturers are given a limited pool that they can use, they will sometimes reuse them but ship those products to different parts of the world to avoid network conflicts.

If you want to confirm this, get something like Wifi Analyzer and write down / screenshot the MAC addresses that are nearby when this happens. And someone else in that spot in Atlanta do the same thing. You'll probably find a match.

This makes a huge difference if you live somewhere with shared walls between units. I use the "Wifi analyzer" app on Android to check which channels are being used by neighbors.

Wifi Analizer, para descubrir cómo llega el Wifi a cierta zona de tu casa. La App arma un gráfico con el rendimiento de las redes que haya, y vas a ver cómo cambia a medida que te movés.

And now it's again almost unusable in some urban settings. In San Francisco a few days ago I saw probably 30 2.4ghz wifi networks with signal in the same coffee shop (using Wifi Analyzer). And people wonder why their internet is slow... This is why: https://play-fi.com/images/uploads/wifi-analyzer.png

You can use it to find that one spot available (least crowded) in the wireless spectrum for the best WiFi-signal when setting up which channels to use. You can also use it to find weak signal shadows as they change with different positions of sender and receiver in relation to walls and interfering networks.

Wifi Analyzer: On google play

Havent understood your case fully but ill do my rant.

Receiving 100% is a Windows 8/10 stupidity. Download "wifi analyzer " app (windows and android only) to understand the signal strength.

The usual problem is, the extender uses half its bandwidth to capture and other half to transmit. so when it is at a place where it receives, say, 50% of the original routers signal, it uses half its capacity to take that 50 i.e. it can take 25 of that 50 and uses the other half of its capacity to transmit that 25. So inherintly this is not a great model.

instead run a ethernet cable from the downstairs modem's out to upstairs and reconfigure the second modem to be act as an Access Point. should retain maximum speed.

this one https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en

Yes, there are likely to be similarities between apps that do the same thing, but... This app feels like a ripoff of Farproc's Wifi Analyzer which has been out for years. Look at the design choice for the various graphs - it's too similar to be a coincidence.

Download a WiFi channel analyser and see what channel is the most under utilised. What I did for my street.

This is a good app if you have an Android device: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_GB

No, this is a dumb thing. Reducing the frequency of background scans I can agree with, but no way this should be enforced for foreground apps. At least make it a permission. This is going to greatly limit the usefulness of apps like Wifi Analyzer - in this case, you'd have to wait for 30 seconds before you can see the graph update again which is painful say, if you're moving around your premises scanning for signal issues.

Came here to say this. When this happened at my office I used a program from google play store called Wifi Analyzer.

As I walked around the office the app told me if the signal was getting weaker or stronger, until I found the rogue router installed in our Production Manager's office.

If you're in a congested area, you might need to change channels to get better signal. Since you have Android, grab Wifi Analyzer and check how many other networks are around and on the same channel as yours. If there's more than 1 with signal rivaling yours, try to change to a channel that has NO overlap with other APs. If there's just too many to do that, try buying your own wireless router and use 5GHz instead of 2.4GHz. The range is a bit lower because of poorer wall penetration, but if 2.4GHz is crowded, it will resolve your issues.

That's of course assuming that the problem only happens over WiFi. In any case, you'll still probably be better off with 5GHz since you're getting that kind of signal in the same room as the AP.

>This is the ONLY app on google play that will map your network in a graphical display!

I saw that as well. I use this, and literally the first screenshot is a Wifi graph.

I recommend checking your WiFi network's signal-to-noise ratio. This is different from signal strength. Even if you have full bars on your phone, the area you're in may have enough WiFi noise that your phone or router can't "hear" an individual packet, causing the packet to get dropped. This is especially likely if you live in a crowded environment with many networks and phones, like an apartment complex or college campus.

If you have an iPhone/iPad, you can use AirPort Utility to view your signal-to-noise ratio. If you have an Android device, you can use Wifi Analyzer.

You generally want your signal to be greater than -50 dBm, and your noise to be less than -80 dBm. If your noise is higher than -80 dBm, you'll want to switch WiFi channels on your router to find one that's less noisy. That will involve logging into your router and finding its admin page. I can log into my router by going to 192.168.1.1 in my browser, but yours may be different.

You could use something like this Android App to view the signal strength coming from each AP (listed by MAC address). You can play hotter/colder with a specific MAC address and the Signal meter (change the scan interval in settings to the shortest interval).

There's only a finite amount of spectrum on 2.4GHz. In the US, there are 11 available channels. However, the Wi-Fi signal is wider than the width of a channel, so the most you can fit in the available spectrum is 3 signals, side by side, on channels 1, 6, and 11. In a fully-managed environment like a corporate or campus network, access points will be set up so that adjacent APs are on different channels, and they'll be sited to provide the best coverage given the layout of the building, without interfering with each other.

In an unmanaged area like an apartment, on the other hand, people just set up their access points willy-nilly, broadcasting at needlessly high power levels, and on whatever channel they please. Some routers even have an automatic channel selection function - sounds great in theory, until you realize that those algorithms don't limit themselves to 1, 6, and 11, and so those routers end up causing interference to two other networks, instead of just one. Rogue access points in a managed network have the same effect - they're usually crappy home-grade routers, and have definitely not been accounted for by the network admin, so they end up causing more problems than they solve.

You can see this in action for yourself, if you have an Android phone. Install Wi-Fi Analyzer and open it - it'll show you all of the networks nearby, and which channel they're on. If you do that in your apartment, you'll notice that access points are scattered all up and down the spectrum. If you try it at a large business or a college campus - anywhere big enough to have an IT person managing their network - you'll notice that APs are nicely divided up into 1, 6, and 11, and there aren't nearly as many dead spots in coverage as you get in your apartment.

TL;DR: It's the difference between a well-moderated panel discussion and a 50-way shouting match.

That's normal more than likely.

The 2.4ghz network is very crowded. If you live in an apartment or if you live in a neighborhood chances are the wifi is saturated.

Everybody and their grandmother has a wireless router these days.

There are only 11 channels available for 2.4ghz and only 3 that don't interfere with each other.

If you want to see what the channels look like, check out this AP:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US

I assume that the community and Purism will make all the common programs, so I'm not going to list those here. Will instead list programs that I know I want, not knowing whether anyone will make them:

• a hiking GPS app (like Gaia or Backcountry Explorer)

• various calculators, which I'm assuming will be easy to create from Linux versions

• a timing program, with timer and stopwatch

• an alarm program, for waking up in the morning!

• a port of Google Earth would be super cool, and maybe it's possible since it already exists in Linux

• I've got an Android program called ISS detector, which I love having since I camp a lot, and it's fun to point it out to people who have never seen it

• A birding program like iBird or Merlin on Android. This requires a massive database, so I don't know if it's possible with cooperation with one of the companies that already make these kinds of apps

• Chess

• a simple music player, like Music Folder Player for Android

• A night time screen darkener that's easy to use, like Night Owl for Android

• A simple photo editor/viewer, like Pix on linux

• a QR code scanner, like QR Droid

• a shared shopping list program, like "Our Groceries Shopping List" on Android

• a sky astronomy program, like SkEye or Sky Map

• Someone needs to make sure that Syncthing will run on Librem

• it would be really neat to have a program like Wifi Analyzer (Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US

• a simple audio recording program, that will save microphone audio to an mp3 or something like that

------edited for spelling

If you're in an apartment the chances are your wifi is being interfered with (OOeer) by your neighbours wifi. Use an app like this to figure out where the clear bandwidth is and switch the channel of your wifi in your routers configuration.

Try manually setting the router to a different 5 GHz channel. Use Wifi Analyzer to check for the current and recommended channels.

It's probably set to a crowded channel. Use WiFi Analyzer to figure out a better channel, which you can set in your router's settings.

Yep, the farpoc Wifi Analyzer is literal malware. I had it installed on my phone all of a sudden the app started controlling itself and then eventually my phone.

​

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en

You should try using an app like this. It will tell you the frequencies and channels your neighbours are using on their routers. Change your router to a channel that's less used or not used at all. You'll get much less interference.

There are two, and I use both. (I'm an EE, I have had to use them both for work.)

WiFi Analyzer is the one that shows channels.

WifIAnalyzer shows the speeds of the networks.

Refuto tudo que você diz e por favor, não faça mais esse tipo de recomendação as pessoas.

> A NET não é um bom provedor de internet.

Errado, dentre os grandes, é um bom provedor sim. É o mais avançado na adoção de IPv6 e diferentemente do senso comum, não faz traffic shaping e entrega 100% da banda contratada. E olha que ODEIO o grupo econômico que é dono dele (Grupo Claro). É meu concorrente.

> Dificilmente é culpa do roteador

Muitas vezes é. A função de WiFi dos modems+roteadores disponíveis no mercado é bem inferior a um roteador wireless na faixa dos R$1k.

> O roteador periodicamente muda o canal de transmissão a fim de otimizar a comunicação

Isso jamais deve ser feito aleatoriamente. Logo, sua recomendação piora o problema em vez de ajudar. Tem que se verificar o canal mais ocioso na área de cobertura que se deseja e escolher ele. Só fazer mudanças baseados em medições.

> Tente desabilitar o IPv6 de sua máquina e veja se faz diferença.

Desabilitar o IPv6 é como desabilitar o freio ABS do carro. É um recurso importante que está ali por um motivo. Não desligue ambos.

Gostou do assunto? Sabia que temos um sub especializado? Dê subscribe no /r/InternetBrasil

This is probably the correct answer, OP. Got lots of neighbors? WiFi spectrum is probably crowded. If you have an android device, use this app to find a better channel for your router.

Download wifi analyzer from the google play store and check out the signal strength of all the networks in your area. Choose a channel where the available networks are the weakest to put your own network on it (less interference).

WiFi Analyzer is useful for detecting WiFi signals if you have an Android device handy. What you mean by "covert WIFI signals" is a whole other question.

I use WiFi Analyzer for this but not for the reasons you stated.

Everyone else here is bringing up a valid point... Why delete any? Why are you even looking at them? lol stop looking at a long lasting historical list of your saved networks unless you need to. Why would you need to?

I use applying aliases because there are times I'm using a network with many AP that all have the same name. I like to name the "good ones" something specific to the area of building I'm in so I can distinguish them easily. So for me the real issue was stock Android doesn't split same named networks by mac addresses.

It may be best to set your wifi router to auto and let it pick a channel that's relatively free.

But if you want to manually adjust it you can use an app like this one (android):

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

To scan surrounding wireless networks. It shows how densely populated the different channels are. You also get a visual representation of the overlap.

You can then manually pick a channel if your router allows this. My router allows me to selected all channels from 1-13, but I still keep it on auto because it works well enough.

Get a wifi analyzer app, like this one for Android:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

You'll want an app that will show wifi signal to noise strength over time.

Launch the app to monitor your wifi reception, then turn on the toothbrush. It's best to have someone standing still with the app, while someone else moves the toothbrush around, to see if it's the source of interference.

Here's an earlier thread about this same app, from the last time it was on sale about a month ago:

https://www.reddit.com/r/googleplaydeals/comments/9qf4t4/apps_wifi_analyzer_premium_299_149/

This app appears to draw heavily from (ie copy) many aspects of Farproc's Wifi Analyzer which has been out for years. Yes, there's only so many ways to design a Wi-Fi analyzer, but this "premium" app uses many key design elements from Farproc's older and well-established standard.

Are you making the proper distinction between mega*bits* and mega*bytes*? Connection speed (speedtest.net, etc) is usually measured in the former while individual downloads are measured in the latter.

If your connection speed measured 5.55 megabits, then your situation wouldn't be abnormal (= 694 kilobytes).

I acknowledge that you said it was faster at one point, but I'm just double checking. A connection can temporarily spike sometimes.

Other issues I can think of:

You might want to check to make sure nothing else in your house might be steadily downloading something. ISPs may have something along the line that's prioritizing the speed test. Depending on your router's firmware, you might be able to look at which devices are using bandwidth (dd-wrt has various monitors for this).

If you're connecting wirelessly, try plugging your computer directly into the modem and testing if you're downloading any faster. If there is a discrepancy and signal strength isn't the problem, and you have close neighbors, check that your wifi isn't colliding with theirs. There are tools like this that visualize the channels that access points in your vicinity are broadcasting on; if there's some overlap, you can try changing the channel in your router's settings. Channel overlap has definitely caused weird things to happen to me in the past.

Why not use a wifi site monitor app on your phone and walk around until the signal gets stronger?

I used this to figure out which 5hz channels to avoid.

O desenho ajuda, mas é a realidade da medição do sinal no próprio local que vai mostrar onde o sinal chega bem ou chega mal.

Tem que ligar o roteador (não precisa estar conectado na internet) e usar o app Wifi Analyzer pra ir te mostrando a intensidade do sinal enquanto você perambula pelo local.

Como o seu mapinha na mão, vai pintando ou anotando as medições. Faz um mapa pra cada posição do roteador.

Nota: o app é pra android; o iphone proíbe esse tipo de app. Daí tem que instalar um equivalente num notebook.

Habites-tu dans un bloc appartement?

Si c'est le cas, peux importe le fournisseur, t'auras toujours des problèmes de Wi-Fi à cause que l'espace réseau est saturé par tout le monde sur les même chaînes.

Si tu as un téléphone Android, télécharge une application pour vérifier que sont les chaînes utilisées et libres. (Exemple : Wifi Analyzer ou WiFiman )

2.4 GHz WLAN (802.11b) uses channels 22MHz wide, see: Wikipedia

If routers in your area occupy more channels than one router at channel 1, one at 6 and one at 11/12/13, the signals will start interfering. This means communication between your router and your PC will be less reliable, which could cause ping spikes and/or lower data speeds.

You can use an app like wifianalzyer to see which channels are occupied in your area and set the channel of your router to an unoccupied channel.

ok so wifi is approximately on 2.4 Ghz. but not exactly. the wifi standard has a certain bandwidth, lets say 100 Mhz (real value is probably different) so it would go from 2.35 to 2.45 Ghz. now you can slice this bandwidth up into channels. so channel 1 is 2.35, channel 2 would be 2.36 and so on. if everyone is sending on one and the same frequency youre not going to go anywhere.

how to check your channels: there are many smartphone apps that can tell you the channels of the different wifis. search for some wifi analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en)

if your wifi is on the same channels as others, change it to a channel that is still free. usually people dont know about this and just let the router choose a channel (which oddly enough will always be the same). so if you change the channel, your wifi will magically work better.

If you have an Android phone, try this app to see how strong your wifi signal is in different parts of your house. It's best to have your router up high and away from steel/concrete/microwave ovens.
It's possible that someone nearby has a more powerful signal on the wifi channel you're using, which would affect your connection - try channel 1, 6, and 11 to see which gives you the best results at www.speedtest.net .

This is a great tip. Wifi Analysis will do this quickly on Android (free, great reviews) or if you want to get a bit more technical and generate a pretty map, try Ekahau Heatmapper on a laptop (free for non-commercial use).

WiFi Analyzer for android is OK for a quick overview. It's got a little signal meter you can use to track down specific APs.

Not terribly sensitive, but gives a decent indication whereabouts you should be checking.

Wifi would be heavily influenced by your environment. Try playing 2.4 Ghz wifi in an apartment building...nice card or not. :P

That said, I play on wifi just fine at home on 2.4 Ghz.

Also, I recommend WifiAnalyzer as a usefull tool for seeing what is going on around you. Sometimes your router is in a spot where it thinks it's on the best channel, but the spot your computer is located might notice other signals that the router cannot.

Try logging into the router and changing the wifi channel, if you're in a block there could be a bunch of competing networks causing interference.

If you have an android phone you can download wifi analyzer, which will show you a graph like this, try and pick the channel with the least amount of networks using it.

From the Google Play description:

>Note that this app should only be installed on the Robot Controller ZTE Speed (which is the WiFi Direct group owner).

Wifi is spread across multiple channels

The idea is that you want to not have everyone using the same channel to help reduce radio congestion. While you can use a wifi channel scanner to see what channels are being used it's really going to be up to the field admins at the event to let you know if you should change to a different channel. The best way to keep things even and fair is for them to keep track of which team is using which channel. If they don't tell you to change your channel you might ask if it's Ok to pick one yourself. At our first qualifier they specifically told us to change channels. At our second qualifier and at the state championship the topic never came up.

Are you playing at your home or somewhere else (school campus, dorms, etc).

Also is the mac connected wirelessly?

If both are wireless does it work better when you are right next to the router?

Do you have multiple connections registered on your devices? For example my router has one connection for 2.4GHz and one for 5.0GHz. I erased one of the connections from my device so that it wouldn't jump between them.

If you are on campus you may be dealing with interference from other nearby routers on the same channel. I use this app when I need to check that kinda stuff on my own phone.

Yes they need to improve their reconnect code, however if the wifi is a common factor then there may be things you can do right now.

I actually have a 6P myself, when I'm connected via my carrier (so 4g/3g) I don't have any reconnect problems. When playing on my desktop (LAN connection) I don't have any reconnect problems. Also when near my router I don't have any reconnect problems. However I have thick walls in my house and before I got a wireless repeater I had reconnect issues. Additionally my bedroom is at max reliable range, as a result I found that my phone would jump between the 2.4GHz and 5.0GHz connections from my router. I took note of what connection I was on and frequently found it was swapping during reconnects. I change it to only use the 2.4GHz connection and the problem resolved.

No worries, I don't think anyone cares about people posting issues they're having, as long as it's not "Stadia is trash, you all are losers" style. =)

Unfortunately I'm guessing this might be hard for us to help diagnose here since it sounds like a wifi related issue, which could be caused by a billion things. Your better experience on your iPad could be completely down to the iPad having a stronger Wifi signal than your phone. Especially if things have been getting worse over time, my suspicion is there might be wifi interference happening that your router's wifi signal is not able to overcome. As a reminder, 5ghz wifi will almost surely give a better experience than 2.4 ghz.

We can try to help you troubleshoot the router if you post the model etc, but a lot of it will come down to the signal strength. A wifi 6 router is ideal if your devices can support it because there is likely to be little interference, but a good wifi 5 router should work fine as well (I use the Nest Wifi which is great for it).

One way to test would be if you have fewer connection issues when you're really close to the router vs further away.

If you have an android phone, I have used this app to see if there are a lot of competing networks on or near the same wifi channel as mine:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US&gl=US

Really?

here is the oldest one I've used long ago by farproc, same UI, same stars page, same history page, 95% similar to all others. maybe this app has 1 extra feature?

Register with Wigle.net and see if you can find that MAC address (or a similar one).

Other option is the Wifi Analyzer app on Android, which may help tracking down where this device is.

As already stated, WiFi is terrible at penetrating through objects, so having a wall (or floor) in the way will already reduce your signal.

I don't know what an Apple equivalent is, but there's a free app on Android called WiFi Analyzer that tells you the strength of a WiFi signal in dBm. You can go around your home and see where it's weak and strong and try to position the router better in your house using that.

As far as the router itself, angling the antennas differently can help a signal. Also, having 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz on the same antenna can reduce the signal of each other, so you can try going with one of the other if you're able to. 2.4 Ghz has better penetration, but 5 Ghz has better speed.

For not getting your full gigabit speed, routers may have gigabit Ethernet ports on them, but that doesn't always mean the processor can handle that speed. My $200 dedicated router by Ubiquiti can't even do full Gigabit unless I turn off features like Quality of Service because the quad core processor inside of it just isn't powerful enough. The Nighthawk R7000P only has a dual core processor, and it's also trying to handle your WiFi and switching.

The cable company's default modem they send every one has built in 802.11 2.4Ghz spectrum routers that has completely blanketed my neighborhood. "free internet for the random FBI surveillance van that happens to be driving by or subscribers to the same service"

Then the power company had strange men in unmarked windowless white vans from out of state just trespass on to everyone's property and forcefully install wireless smart meters on everyone's home.

Ever since this the 2.4Ghz spectrum has been completely saturated and almost unusable in the same room as my high power wireless modem. It is like I'm living in a crowded apartment complex.

There is also a mystery 802.11 2.4Ghz channel that follows the channel I put my router on that is almost the same power as seen from a wireless scanning app.

This was no issue up to a couple years ago.

The 5Ghz spectrum is a bit more clean, but I have ahem *legacy devices that don't have the 5Ghz capacity that we still use.

EDIT:

Added a cap of the Wifi scan. Cut out info for privacy.

App called WiFi Analyzer. Pretty neat.

You can find open channels and then tell your router to explicitly broadcast on the open channel to minimize interference.

No guarantee that this is the case but I had this problem too so it is worth giving it a go.

If your router uses both 2.4gHz and 5gHz frequencies, use an Android app called Wifi Analyzer(I don't know of any iPhone alternatives but there are some Windows apps) to see how congested the 2.4gHz network is. If there are too many networks on your channel, try switching to a different one.

Actually many laptops can scan/use 2.4 ghz and 5.8ghz as wifi uses both frequencies. Just depends on the module you have. Going from there to a functioning scanner is a giant leap. I'm doubt most wifi modules even expose the low level stuff.

However, maybe you are looking to just see if peoples wifi routers are dirtying up your channel? You can get an app for your phone that will scan for wifi activity on the various channels and display it to you. This won't show total noise but I imagine that wifi is the biggest pollutant on 2.4 and 5.8.

*Note: Just like laptops not all phones have the ability to use 5.8 ghz wifi. You can find similar apps for Window and Mac if you really want to use your laptop *

I second that. For Android, there is Wifi Analyzer. Install that, go to this screen, then walk around your apartment/house/whatever. Try to find a channel which has the least overall amount of interference from other networks. A lot of routers default to 1, 6, or 11, and the channels only partially overlap, so in a crowded area, I often try 3, 4, 8, or 9, since it might overlap some but there may be no other networks actually on that exact channel.

No, you would want to check the usage of the 2.4GHz frequency range within your area to determine the suitable channel.

For Android users, you can use this Wifi Analyzer app.

Typically you would want to choose any one of the channels 1, 6 and 11. Choosing anything else may have adverse effect on transmission speed on everyone else, not only yours.

If your router / Wifi access point has the setting "auto", it may be better to use that since the router automatically chooses the best channel for you on startup.

>https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

That one. I'm on Galaxy S9+ running Android Pie.

I've been planning to try out the VREM version.

Edit: I suspect I just need to give the farproc app location permissions, to get it working. (Yup, that did it.)

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/wifi-analyzer/9nblggh33n0n

Scan , look for the least crowded space and or lowest signal of other wifi's and put it on that channel . same with the 5ghz also .

Probably a lot of people in your area are using the same wifi channels. Consider using 5Ghz or check for uncongested wifi channel in your area using this app for Android and switch to that channel.

Run ethernet cables to your devices (and run the speedtest with a cable connection).

Download the wifi analyzer app and see which channel is best to set your router to.

You need to figure out the source of the problem.

1) How much bandwidth does your ISP provide? (idk what's performance tier). Is it saturated with 2 video stream? QoS might help

2) How much bandwidth can your wifi provide? is it saturated with 2 video stream? QoS might also help.

3) How crowded is your wifi channel? Use this to check. Try to move to less congested channel or even better, utilize the 5GHz channel if available.

Otherwise it's possible that your wifi router simply sucks (no offend). You can try to get an AP to handle the wireless instead of your router and see.

Powerline gets some hate from this sub. I understand why. It hugely depends on your house's electric work. In MY experience, it does provide lower ping but bandwidth sucks big time, although bandwidth isn't that important for gaming. It also drops connection from time to time. ie, in my house, I know the powerline would stop working when I use vacuum in a certain outlet. Much like how 2.4GHz wifi can stop working when you use the microwave. TL;DR, YMMV.

To add on to this, you can get a WiFi analyser app on your Android phone and see what bands have the most interference from other routers in your area. This is the one I use.

Note, though, that that app won't pick up non-WiFi sources of interference, so you may still want to try changing the channel. Most routers are set up to automatically choose channels, but most consumer grade routers are really terrible at doing this. Honestly, even the enterprise APs we use at work did a pretty poor job at it (we tried it out during deployment, just to see how well it worked). For optimal performance, you're generally better off setting your own channel.

You may also want to turn off guest mode on your Chromecast (if it's on), as it broadcasts its own network and could potentially cause some interference (unlikely, but possible).

2 likely problems:

1) Interference from other WiFi hotspots. This is almost certainly the problem, you're in a tiny apartment in NYC.

Use a Wifi scanning app like inSSIDer (I use an Android app called WiFi Analyzer) to detect the hotspots around you. You'll probably see a lot. Pick a Channel for your router it isn't commonly used (the app will suggest some).

That will help, but you might also need to add a WIRED repeater to boost the signal as well (a wireless repeater will just make more noise).

2) If it's not that, it's a possibly unshielded wiring in the wall (common in pre-WWII construction). But the recommendation would be the same, run a wired repeater into the other room.

We really need some kind of really user-friendly one-click web-based app that will show wireless channel activity. Something like the Farproc Wifi Analyzer app (which I can't recommend enough: I love it and use all the time on my phone for wireless troubleshooting), but that runs in a browser, so we can just send users there to check on the spectrum usage themselves. Anyone here do web app development? I don't know enough about it to know if it's possible to give a web app that kind of access to the 802.11 hardware - does anyone have any idea?

If the headphone remote on the 2 works like the 3, it uses WiFi Direct. Check the wifi channel congestion in your area, and maybe move to a clearer channel. You can see what channel other wireless networks in your area are on by using an app like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en.

5G has got nothing to do with your wifi frequencies.

Your wifi has two frequencies, 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. 5 GHz is not the same as (cellular) 5G on your phone.

Download an app called Wifi Analyzer to see which Wifi channel you are on and how crowded it is.

If you live somewhere with a lot of neighbors who are all on the same Wifi channel your wifi strength (on the 2.4 GHz freq) can be very low.

So change your wifi channel to something less crowded.

You'll have to do that in your router.

>However, I dislike how often my internet drops

I've had 1 legitimate drop in about 5 years on Spectrum since troubleshooting all components - there are a few things you really need to check before blaming your issues on the provider (this goes for all cable-based internet services):

1) if you own your home, ensure your modem is no more than 1 split from the outside feed.
2) google your modem and find what appropriate signal levels are for it, and learn to login to it and check those levels. You may need an amp to bring those levels up to snuff.
3) if you have a way to automatically reboot your modem on a daily basis, do so (mine is on a smart outlet which clicks it off at 3am and back on a couple minutes later).
4) consider getting your own modem and router <-- fixing #1 and this were the biggest steps to reliability for me. The provided or leased hardware is usually the cheapest thing that meets the requirements for the provider and rarely works well.

Ensure also that the issue lies with the modem and not your wifi. I recently helped a friend troubleshoot their internet issues and simply switching the wifi channel fixed everything. The "auto" setting on most wifi routers is shit and often ends up on the same channel as your 6 closest neighbors who also don't know anything about wifi... download a wifi analyzer app and figure out which channel is least crowded and switch your wifi channel.

This is the app I use. I'm not sure about iOS, but I suspect Apple doesn't expose the APIs that would be necessary to do this sort of analysis.

Lots of different things can contribute to slow wifi speeds. I think 50 feet is pretty far. I wouldn't be surprised if after 20 feet you'd start to see some signal degradation, given some channel congestion and building materials getting in the way, weakening the signal, especially for a 5Ghz band (if that is what you're connected to).

If you have an AC router, it should still give you some pretty decent speeds at longer ranges, but anything less will definitely suffer, in my personal experience.

I'm no super expert, but I've troubleshot a few home networks before. A few things you could do to improve it are:

1. Like other comments stated, reboot the router.

2. Place the router a little higher and in an area where it will spread signal more evenly throughout your home, with as few obstacles as possible (esp. brick, cement barriers).

3. You can download an app to your smartphone, if you have one, like WiFi Analyzer to see compare which channels are the most congested. Then you can take a dive into your router settings to set it to the least populated channel.

4. Depending on your ISP, there may be other steps required to do a "proper" network reboot for things to run like they should. Your modem will need to correct its boot bin file by establishing a fresh connection. The steps are typically shutting the router + modem off, booting up the modem first, booting up the router after the modem is completely online, and then attempting to connect. Otherwise, if using a combo modem/router, just reboot it.

Hope that helps!

Use an ethernet cable if you are able.

If you have access to your router, you can try changing the channel settings to minimize interference with other nearby networks. Wifi Analyzer is an app you can use to find the best channel.

If the issue with ethernet is the distance to your router, you could look into something like these: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG

Plug one into your router and then plug in the other one wherever you play in your house and you'll get all the advantages of an ethernet cable.

Put the router up high, and away from solid concrete/steel/wood beams. Rotate one of the aerials perpendicular to the other if you can. Use a wifi-testing app like this on your phone to see if the signal is strong in the places you need it to be, and switch to channel 1, 6, or 11 depending on which is the least crowded.

>The disruption comes when a device is on a neighboring channel, slightly overlapping it.

This.

If you're in a busy area, go ahead and check with something like WiFi analyzer and you'll see almost everything on 2.4ghz is on channels 1, 6, and 11 for this reason. Your router isn't going to be looking for an empty channel, it's going to look for a channel it communicates the best on, which might even be busy af.

Then once you've checked go yell at anyone in the middle of those channels because they're fucking it up for everyone else.

have her access the router settings on a different device connected to the wifi (usally you just type in 192.168.1.1 or you can use the wifi analyzer app) Store link for android. If its on 5 ghz have her switch it to 2.4 and onto a preferably empty channel.

I don't think your neighbors are moving around at all. I think you're seeing something you're not understanding. Over 50% of access points (and I'm being extremely conservative here) in the US are built into modem/router combos rented from an ISP. They are neither modern nor "fancy" as has been thrown around here. And they definitely, despite what you say, do not have dynamic channel hopping capability. You're lucky if your ISP modem/router has 802.11ac. More likely you're seeing two different bands or even more likely, your neighbors have shitty internet like many people and they think restarting their routers regularly will help. It's an oddly common thing to do. This is my job, I see it all the time.

Maybe what you think you've seen is band hopping? That's a common thing in higher end routers now but I doubt you'll see it in any current ISP router offerings. That's more for load balancing and avoiding extremely congested 2.4Ghz areas though.

But to actually answer your question: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Find 1, 6, or 11 and just set it manually. If your router really is hopping channels (and I don't think it is) then you're getting interruptions in your service that are more disruptive than interference. Best case scenario you have a router with an antenna dedicated to scanning to minimize the interruption time but that's really not likely.

> They are all set up to automatically negotiate channels and power between them selves so that they don't have overlapping channels.

To quote Archer: Do you want overlapping channels? Because that's how you get overlapping channels.

I've never seen a wifi controller yet that can be relied on to fully manage the channel and strength.

Forget trying to find obscure commands for your kit. Install Wifi Analyzer - it's free - on your phone and go walk to an AP reporting collisions. If you see multiple APs (check the MAC address - don't confuse multple SSIDs with APs) on the same channel with signal strength higher than -80db, that's your problem.

Since you brought it up...

Check out Wifi Analyzer

It's great to see what channel everyone around you is on and allow you to choose a better channel on your router.

Awesome! Or not, but now you at least know what the problem is. :)

One thing I might suggest further is that if you have a tablet or smartphone, look into apps that can tell you about networks around you, so you can get a sense of what your neighbors are using and what you can try to avoid to get a better signal. For Android I've used Wifi Analyzer:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

(Not affiliated, just a user, but it works pretty well for me.)

Something like that will show you nearby networks, what channels they're on, and how strong the signals are, so you can try to find a hole for your network to live in. Don't just check near your router - be sure to check signals near where you use your client devices like your laptop, tablet, Roku, or whatever, so you can try to find a good space there.

If your apartment building is really crowded and trying to find a clear channel on 2.4 GHz turns out to be a complete clusterf**k, the suggestion by /u/hypergolic to look for a 5Ghz capable router is probably your next best bet, but you'll need to make sure all your client devices are 5GHz capable too in order to take advantage of it. Good luck!

Wifi or wired? If it's wireless download something like Wifi Analyzer and see crowded your channels are. I went from 15 mbps back to my rated 50 by changing to a lesser used channel.

If it's wired, start by resetting your modem and router. I've had my speeds crap out when one gets flaky. Also, try plugging directly into your modem. If your router is starting to die it could be slowing things down.

first off, reset both devices just in case

at the back of the PLDT modem, use any of the ports LAN1-LAN3 and connect to your linksys using the INTERNET port

that's it actually.

other things that you might want to do:
disable PLDT wifi

• on your browser go to 192.168.1.1 username should be adminpldt, password 1234567890
• at the top, go to setup
• left hand side, go to WLAN
• uncheck Disable Wireless LAN Interface

enable customized wifi name and password

• go to 10.0.0.1 username and password should be admin
• refer to your router manual, or google, how to customize the wifi ID and password. It should be in wireless/wlan/wifi security
• use wpa and others, never WEP

optional: using your android phone, get wifi analyzer at the appstore

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

you can check the number of wifi signal is in the air, and which channels they are using. use another channel for your own wifi. this means a little more stable wifi connectivity

WiFi Analyser from Farproc on Android allows creating aliases for each access point (by MAC address). Very handy for what you describe.

I use this app for Android ---> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_AU&amp;gl=US

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Super handy to see the signal strength as you walk around the house, and also if there's anything overlapping channels.

My question is what's the wifi-congestion situation? It's a apartment.

Likely a ton of other wifi competing for rf airspace..

You should run a wifi analyzer. But assuming extreme congestion, hardwire might be the only option

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Internet speed is irrelevant for Virtual Desktop unless you are playing from a cloud PC. Generally if you have poor performance in VD it's because your router is too slow or your wifi signal is poor. Get a WiFi Analyzer app and verify your signal is strong and no neighbors routers are interfering. If you have other devices connected to your router it will affect overall performance as well. So either stop using them while playing or get a dedicated router just for Virtual Desktop use.

Your best bet for detailed technical support is to join the Virtual Desktop Discord and ask for help there.

Ako loviš toliko tuđih mreža, lako moguće da je problem u šumu. Skini WiFi analyzer, pogledaj na kojem si kanalu i koliko se preklapaš sa susjedima, app bi ti trebao dati ocjenu i preporuku na koji promjeniti. Također, ako ti svi uređaji to podržavaju, prebacivanje na 5GHz band bi moglo pomoći, ali domet će biti manji.

>Wifi Analyzer

Agreed. Here is a link: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

This response is most likely the answer. Since WiFi works sometimes but will drop, as a field technician the 2 things I would check are:

1. See how many SSID (WiFi networks) you see listed in the analyzer. If there are (for example) 10 networks running on the same channel OP's WiFi is then interference is the issue to address.

2. See what the signal strength is. If the signal strength is below 50-60 decibels then I would expect issues with WiFi.

Now if there are multiple networks on the same channel and OP's signal is (for example) 60Db, I would expect there to be intermittent issues. In WiFi terms it's the same as pulling the ethernet cable at random. This is absolutely the first step into solving your issue. Especially with 2700ms ping.

This is the play store app directly I use for these situations.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

> Would this work OK if I upgraded to an 802.11ac router?

Your chance of success would certainly be a lot better. I can stream 4864x2432 30-40Mbit 60fps h.264 content to my Go using a 5GHz ac router without any major problems, though I'm usually in the same room when I do it. Line of sight and interference are the main things to worry about. There's generally less interference on the 5GHz band of course though for the best results you'll still want to use a Wi-Fi scanner app (like Wifi Analyzer or whatever) to make sure your router is using an uncrowded channel. In fact it's worth investigating this with your current solution to see if you can improve things at all.

Go with ASUS and if you have some minimal technical skills you can go with the (open-source) Asuswrt-Merlin firmware (and with fixed WiFi channels, maybe 2.4GHz in the most backwards-compatible and Bluetooth-friendly way, 5GHz in a more speed-oriented way).

That being said even with night hawk ac2600 you should not have that many problems, so IMHO you should always start things with ca channel map like for instance the one using WiFi Analyzer or similar.

Yes, wire up as many as you can back to the primary. It's best to connect all back to a central gigabit switch connected to the primary GWiFi's LAN port, but you can daisy chain as well. As long as it has a wired path back to primary.

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Since you'll be installing, you can use WiFi Analyzer on your smart phone to try and figure out the best areas to place them. For the ones wired, you'll want those where signal is weakest. Since you'll want the pucks to be central to where the devices are used most, putting them in the ceiling where smoke detector or recessed can lighting is installed tends to be ideal locations. I have seen one person on this subreddit have a picture of it. It was sticking out quite a bit. Since the antennas are located only on the top half, the portion above the LED, you can actually make it more flush and look pretty slick.

Eu começaria nessa abordagem também: cabear tudo o que for possível (mas eu entendi que ele já fez isso) e descobrir qual canal está menos ocupado (costumo uso o Wifi Analyzer pra isso) e forçar o roteador a trabalhar nessa frequência.

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Se ainda não ser certo, acho que será preciso fazer igual ao que fazemos em redes grandes (com centenas/milhares de usuários): colocar mais pontos de acesso (AP) à rede sem fio distribuídos em várias regiões, sendo que esses APs devem estar conectados ao roteador central via cabeamento, contudo, não sei se os roteadores doméstico da D-link tem esse recurso; eu já vi que os da Asus tem o tal do AI Mesh, mas nunca implementei.

1. Move your wifi router closer to the center of your living space, but away from the microwave oven. Having it sitting next to the exterior wall means half of your usable wifi signal is being uselessly broadcasted into the back yard.

2. Get an phone app like wifi analyzer Find the least used 2.4 and 5 ghz channels for your wifi router and use only NON OVERLAPPING CHANNELS. This link will explain it for 2.4 ghz channel but the same principals apply to 5. ghz channels

Testaa reitittimestä/modeemista ethernetkaapelilla suoraan johonkin koneeseen. Jos ethernetin kautta pääset lähelle tuota 50 megaa, kannattaa reititin päivittää parempaan.

Jos sulla on Android-puhelin käytössäsi, voit katsoa wifi-verkon ruuhkaisuuden Wifi Analyzer-softalla.

I've had no issues connecting to 5GHz Wi-Fi. Our setup has two Ubiquiti access points and the Essential registers with very high TX and RX rates (867 Mbps), to the point where it can max out our Internet connection on Speedtest at 178 Mbps. Both APs have the same 5GHx SSID and the Essential roams between them seamlessly.

I might suggest that you install Wifi Analyzer and see if your 5GHz signal is visible, and (if you can) compare it with known working 5GHz access points. Also, sometimes it can help to reset the wireless connections (System -> Reset options on LOS 15.1, hopefully that's in stock Android as well) and retry connecting.

EDIT: Forgot to add, I'm using Lineage OS 15.1 with Essential's April modem update.

You'll also want to keep an eye on the TPCast router to ensure no other nearby wireless network is using the same (or overlapping) channel. Get yourself a wifi analyzer like this.

I check it every time I start a VR session because if my neighbors router is interfering I sometimes literally get sick from the additional lag introduced. The strange thing is I can't actually notice it visually but after about 15mins I start to feel it.

You can use Wifi Analyzer app for Android https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US to scan the wifi networks around you and get SSID (network name) and channel.

I don't know if there is something similar for iOS. I have never saw it.

Hope it helps!

Check the wifi in your area using something like Wifi Analyzer. Move your router's wifi channel to the most 'free'. If possible force your devices on to 5GHz (may be able to change the SSIDs so 2.4 and 5 have different names, making it easy to see which one you're on). Otherwise it's a new access point. Seeing as your wired speeds are fine you could probably disable wifi on the Belong kit, and just plug in something like a Ubiquiti Unifi AC Lite to handle the wifi.

If your wired devices are fine then changing DNS etc will have no impact, this is a wireless thing.

It's possible your complex threw up some public WAPs and your router's firmware has a setting on to lower power in order to make sure it doesn't step on other signals. It would make sense why the 2.4 signal goes away while the 5 signal doesn't (way more channels). Just a guess though.

Try downloading wifi analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en) and see if you can find any open channels on 5 and force it there. 2.4 will be tougher because you typically want to use only 1, 6, or 11, because the other channels will cause you to get interference from the adjacent channels.

Okay, this is going to take some work on your part.

You write "disconnected often". What do you mean by that? Do you get disconnected from your WiFi? Do you stay connected to the WiFi but are unable to connect to the outside world?

Assuming WiFi trouble:

• Can you draw (MS Paint if need be, not picky here) your house layout (ideally with wall thickness) and show us where your WiFi-router is placed?

• Are there any spots where the disconnects are more frequent than in other places?

• Do the disconnects happen at specific time(frame)s?

• Have you checked the channels yet? You might have neighbours clogging the frequencies you use. If you have access to an Android device, you can use this app to visualize that. Image would be appreciated. Mark your WiFi signal on the screenshot.

Assuming outbound connection issues:

• Does this happen at specific time(frame)s?

• Do you have cable issues? How old is the house, when were the cables installed, did anybody accidentally drill into them, that kind of thing?

• If you have a device you can leave unattended for some time you can try to measure your connection with something like iperf (If you'd like to get a Linux script for that hit me up, I'm deploying a RPi3 at my sister-in-law's today that does exactly that)

Most important thing if you're starting to troubleshoot: Do it right the first time around or you'll waste a lot of time.

• Only one change at a time

• Measure all the things you need to measure

• Document your measurements

• Revert back to the original state

• Repeat until culprit is found and fixed.

If you give us more info we'll be able to help better.

Good.

First, as you said you already know where the apartment complex is. Get your device with Airmon on it running and go there.

Second, go near to the complex area and run heavy Airmon and Airodump in the area. With this technique you'll be able to see all the MACs of the WiFi APs and the machines connected to them, when you'll locate on which WiFi your laptop's MAC is showing up go to the 3rd part.

3rd and final part, Download and install this App on your Android phone:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Open it and go to the section that gives you the ability to "Locate APs in -dBm range", select the MAC from the WiFi that you saw your laptop's MAC located in the running machines and enable the beeping sound to get information weather you are walking near or far from the WiFi.

Search the complex with this technique and when you'll find the apartment that has the WiFi you'll already know and where your laptop is.

If I understood correctly everything you said on the post, this will definitely help you to achieve what you requested 100%. If you think that I may misunderstood something from your post, tell me to correct myself.

DISCLAIMER: Be very careful, you're trying to get your machine back from a thief. This can get you killed or harm, if you're willing to do it take someone with you.

tl;dr

check your config;

1. verify physical obstructions/placement

2. verify noise with a wifi analyzer

3. change channel on the router if noisy/busy

4. change the Ghz band

Look into getting a separate AP AND disable your netgear r6100 AP funtionality

So wifi;

We have 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz.

2.4Ghz - longer range, lower bandwidth aggregate

5Ghz - shorter range, higher bandwidth aggregate

check what radio you have enabled.

Wireless access point(netgear r6100 router/WAP combo) positioning - dont put it under a table, against a wall, with a wireless printer sitting on top.

For android, try a wifi analyzer like this one.

Dont know about apple, but there should be something out there.

Using the above application, and depending on your country, you'll see different channels for 2.4 and 5Ghz bands, with associated SSIDs, and the amount of noise in those channels.

With all the above you can reconfigure what you have, to see if you can resolve your current setup.

If you want to go new, you can get a separate access point. Your netgear r6100 is a router/AP combo. You can disable the AP functionality, and use a superior AP that you can place in a better location. Generally disabling a combos AP fuct lead to better stability as well, but YMMV.

PDF LINK; Unifi APs are generally recommended. The linked data sheet with show you a heatmap at the bottom of each specific products, depicting coverage. Models range from 60-130US$.

Edit: format

This is a great app for Android that I've used for years: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer Shows loads of useful info on your local Wi-Fi signals

Don't think. Use WiFi Analyzer and know. It tells you which channel is best to use along with a ton of other useful info.

Wifi Analyzer I have used it for years.

Looks incredibly spammy?

I'll stick to this one

This looks like a rip off of the original WiFi analyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Apps in this video (though 95% is about Wifi Analyzer)

• Wifi Analyzer
  
• WiFoFum
  
• Fing

WiFi Analyzer: quickly find the best channel for your Wifi network using this!

Seems to be this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_GB

Firstly, i would recommend checking if the actual router is working - it's possible that a power surge killed it or reset it.

Look for lights on the router, see if the internet light is green etc. Plug in a laptop via an ethernet cable and see if you can get internet that way.

If the router is e.g. locked away in another room, then install a Wifi Analyser app on your smartphone and set it to scan. Local networks should appear larger on the graph the closer you get to it.

The wifi network will either appear, or it will appear under a default router name (if the router was wiped and reset by a pwoer surge) or not appear at all (wifi was either disabled by the powercut, or the router is faulty)

Do you have physical access to the router? Look underneath the router for the default SSID name and password (and admin panel login information)

Alternatively, a lot of routers have a WPS button (sometimes prominent, sometimes discreetly hidden)

Press that WPS button and the router will be put into promiscuous mode for maybe a minute or so - allowing any wifi device to discover or connect to it.

The wifi login information is then stored on the laptop/smartphone/tablet permanently.

Don't mix up the reset and WPS button!

If you do have physical access, you could always run a length of ethernet to your PC/laptop/console, bypassing the wifi altogether.

An added bonus of doing this is that you're determining that the internet router is actually working and connected to the internet.

Finally, if your cellphone has a decent data plan, you can enable wifi hotspot or USB tethering and use internet over it.

It can be slower and less responsive (depending on your local 4g/5g infrastructure) but will do in an emergency

Be VERY VERY CAREFUL as if your cellphone plan has a really miserable data limit, you could be hit with a cellphone bill for hundreds of dollars at the end of the month.

Expect a daily usage of 5 to 10GB if you went allout streaming Netflix, gaming etc.

is it this ? https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

The wifi speeds you're seeing are the max wifi speeds for the Vita. You're not going to break anything outside the teens and should be fine to remote play in the upper single digits. So your next question is, why are you getting "speed too slow" error messages? Interference.

I should also mention that the frequency of your wifi is not directly correlated to speed. If you run a device with a good wifi card in it I bet you'll see similar speeds to your 5ghz connections, that interference is still present, but it shouldn't drastically impact speed. It will however, still drastically impact performance of some network traffic, particularly streaming video/audio. With streaming, it is VERY important that all the bits move from A to B unimpeded. It isn't like a file download where if some parts don't make it they can simply be repushed over and over, those bits are lost and that data will now never make it. So you need to overcome your interference.

Lots of things run on the 2.4 spectrum unfortunately. Older wifi devices, bluetooth (like game console controllers and headphones), baby monitors, home phones, wifi direct devices, smart tvs, steam controllers... on and on and on. You need to find where these are in your home and keep them away from your Vita.

For instance, don't try remote playing your Vita next to your cell phone that is streamin wifi on the 2.4ghz spectrum (just switch it to a 5.0ghz network and your fine) while bluetooth stream audio to your stereo. If you can't move these devices, then simply turn the wifi off or turn them off completely while trying to remote play.

The next thing you should consider is the channel traffic in your area. Most people run on 2.4ghz networks, so if your in an apartment building, you may have some trouble. 2.4 only has like 11ish channels so find one where you can broadcast your router without much interference from other routers can be a challenge. I own a house that is spaced out moderately from other houses and I still run into issues with this in some cases. Go grab an app from your favorite app store to analyze your wifi envirionment (i use wifi analyzer and determine your best placing and channels for your wifi. Find out if a strong signal is on a close channel and move to a further away channel if one is available.

One good option, and one that I have employed at my place, is to run multiple routers bridged to share the same SSID from different rooms in my house. These shouldn't repeat via wifi, but should be connected via Ethernet if you plan to stream. I realize that's a challenge, but having a wired house is a blessing. Generally you don't want to be more than 1 room away from your router for remote playing to ensure you don't drop. Routers that operate only 2.4ghz on 'N' are pretty cheap (maybe $20) so you can play where you want, those are the best the Vita can utilize. There is one trick with this sharing of SSIDs though, sometimes your device won't flip itself to the better router automatically. If this happens just open your networks settings and run the network connection test. You don't even need to get to where it logs in, just let it hit your connection point and then his cancel. The network test will quickly drop your connection and re-establish it, which when you have multiple connection points on the same SSID forces it to the strongest one. It's very quick and very effective.

EDIT: Also one last thing. If you're not planning to use a direct connection with the PS4 (which really only works best if you're in the same room as the console), turn that feature off. I find that the Vita REALLY REALLLY wants to use this connection if it can. Even if the console is only barely able to ping the PS4 it will attempt to connect this way, fail, and then say your connection is too slow. Turning this feature off on the PS4 will force the Vita to first check your local network for a PS4, then check the internet. Usually you want a local network connection. That is, again, unless you are right by the console, then a direction connection is best.

Good luck!

It's literally called "Wifi Analyzer".

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer Wifi Analyzer. Quite handy

A few questions you need to ask yourself to assess the problem:

• Is this a Wi-Fi signal issue?
• Is this a wired network issue?
• Is this an internet connection issue?

So start A/B testing your equipment to see where the bottleneck is:

• How's the connection compare between one device and another in the exact same location?
• How's the connection differ if you change the access points to other channels in their spectrum?
• How's the speed over Wi-Fi to another local resource, e.g. between two devices on the network?
• How's the speed for devices connected to the wired network without using Wi-Fi?
• How's the speed for devices connected directly to the fiber router using assigned static IP?

Useful tools for testing:

• iperf3 is available for almost any platform, use it to test bandwidth between devices.
• Wifi Analyzer is helpful for tracing signal quality and available channels.
• PingTools is helpful for scanning the network and performing various tests.
  (Sorry those are Android apps, that's all I have at my disposal.)
• Are you using the UniFi Controller Software to monitor the network? What does it show?

Wi-Fi Analyzer i jazda.

This app is much better.....

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Possibly this one https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US ive used that one a lot in the past.

WiFi analyzer for Android is a good app as well...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

>WiFi analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

For anyone without a shiny router that does this, there are apps that do the same for you, eg

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

There is a bit of confusion about what apps are in question here and it took me a moment to sort it all out. I am not going to make any judgement in this post, but simply clarify what apps are being discussed. At this point there are 5 apps in the discussion.

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Hope this helps clarify

Wifi Analyzer will do this.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Has always served me well, although I imagine there are prettier versions out there these days, I continue to use it.

Would something like this work? It gives you tons of information about the wireless environment you're in.

WiFi Analizer para android

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

WiFi analyzer

just to be clear, it's not a device, he's talking about the app. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

> Do a wifi analysis and determine what channel is the optimal one for you.

helpful free tool

I think I have used one called wifi analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

I don't know which one you used, but I'm using this one.

I've found them to be very unreliable as well. I think it's because they have shitty wifi antennas. They only allow use of 2.4 GHz (not 5 GHz), which is already extremely crowded if you're in a densely populated area. And the WiFi on these seems to be even more unreliable than any other 2.4 GHz device I own, and extremely susceptible to interference, even when in the room next to the router.

That being said, the solution I've found is to change the channel on your router to one that is less crowded. If you have an android device, you can use the app "WiFi Analyzer" to see which 2.4 GHz channels are the most open. There are only 3 non-overlapping 2.4 GHz channels: 1, 6, and 11. But there are 11 total, the other ones just overlap with others (this wiki has helpful diagrams to understand). 1, 6, and 11 are all very crowded, try picking a channel in-between them. Only problem is if other peoples' routers are switching channels often, you may find yourself changing the channel regularly.

As for the issue of only one tile remaining on, etc - I have not really found a way to fix that. What I've done is put a smart-plug into the outlet, and plugged the lifx into that. So it's easy enough to turn it off and on manually by pressing the button on the smart plug. Also, I was having a very weird issue where the tiles would turn on the in the middle of the night, so I now have my Amazon alexa turn off the smart plug as part of my 'go to bed' routine so the lifx tiles physically can't turn on after that.

To Lifx: PLEASE ADD 5 GHZ WIFI TO YOUR DEVICES!!! 2.4 GHz spectrum only has THREE non-overlapping channels, so if you are in an apartment complex, you are sharing those channels with everyone around you. 5 GHz has THIRTY-FOUR non-overlapping channels, which means basically anyone will have their own channel, even in apartment complexes.

WiFi analyzer

This one. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

As a customer in a little town in the middle of Texas, who uses his own modem and his own router (separate units, not combined) and is wired through ethernet, I actually get more speed than I'm paying for. Well, I throttle my upload speed for technical reasons, but if I turned that off it would be about 20 Mbps upload.

Like you, I used to think my internet was garbage. Know what made the difference? All the messing around with new WiFi cards, new routers, or new modems was ignoring the problem that WiFi is generally complete fucking shit for reliability at best. The most reliable WiFi radios I've ever used were in smartphones, and even then it depends on the phone. After getting wired in directly, my problems went away. Ping was better than ever and we got the speeds we were paying for. I'm not even living in an apartment - my neighbors are only just barely close enough for their networks to even get picked up.

It sounds from your post that you've outright refused to wire in through Ethernet even if just to run a speed test. While such a scenario may not be your day-to-day use case, that's not the point. Doing so enables you to rule out wireless interference or hardware issues on your end, and determine if it's really the internet connection that's the problem. I once got a $70 WiFi card with good reviews, and it was total crap. I can't even tell you how many garbage WiFi routers I've gone through.

> Heard every excuse in the book, literally from 'too many devices in your immediate area using same router channel" [Belkin N600 DB N+ wireless router - all OEM default settings changed upon installation, pw protected & unique SSID, using 5G settings, etc; their docsis 3 whatever modem]

I have to be blunt here, you don't seem to understand what a WiFi router channel is, because nothing you mentioned is related to that (the 5G is close, but the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands each have multiple channels). Other people using the same channel does not mean they're using your router, it means their own routers and/or devices are transmitting on a wireless frequency that is the same as yours, or close enough to interfere - think radio stations. This interference is murder on signal quality, and happens often in apartment environments where multiple households, potentially with multiple wireless routers all packed in close together, don't have enough channels to prevent interference. And you've said you are in an apartment.

Try using a Wifi Analyzer app (here's a good one for Android) to see neighboring wireless signal channels in both the 2.4G and 5G bands, and see if you can find a channel with less interference. There is some overlap between adjacent channels, so that may not be possible, and if that be the case, there's nothing the ISP can do besides recommend you use Ethernet instead of WiFi.

I hope you're at least kind and courteous to the tech support who take your calls, and keep snark like "SuddenStink" to yourself. Many of those folks don't know more than what the script tells them, or if they do know more, they're not allowed to say anything. If they can't help you (especially if you ignore what they tell you), it's not their fault. The most you can do is let them follow their script and try everything they tell you to try, at least once.

I'd recommend using an app/software to scan his area and see what less congested channels are. For example - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

wifi analyzer for android has done the trick for me. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Networking guy here: 80% of the time on consumer connections wifi interference is your problem. The next 10% is your computer being full of malware and your connection actually performing well, just being over-utilized. The next 5% is a shitty router and the last 5% is a shitty connection to your ISP.

Plug in and speed test. You might have a noisy line, but usually the speeds aren't going to be this bad.

What is common, though is interference. Microwaves, portable phones, baby monitors, and about a trillion other things... Even once you exclude those, each wireless channel is still a shared medium. You might be on your own network, but if both you and your neighbour are on channel 6 and both try and transfer as fast as you can, you're both only getting half speed since you both need to share the air time. This is obviously a larger issue in and around apartment buildings where there are dozens of access points all fighting for space.

Try a hard-wired connection. If that works, your wi-fi is shit. That could be interference or a shitty router.

Try a laptop or something on the hard-wired connection with their computer (and all other devices) off. If that's better, their connection is fine but something is using all their bandwidth.

See if you can pull any stats on the router. That'll give you an idea of the quality of the connection to the ISP as well as outside line usage. Some fuckwad might be, for instance, using your router as part of a DNS amplification attack and eating up your bandwidth while not causing any issues with your internal network.

There's a WiFi analyzer app for Android (no root or anything required) which will allow you to see what other networks are using the same channel.

There's also a speedtest app for Android. If you lack a laptop you could try using that over Wi-Fi as an alternative if you don't have a laptop or something.

Me personally, I just said fuck it to typical consumer routers and their measly 100mW or whatever and have one that pumps a full 1W into the antenna. Not only does this cause all the other routers in the vicinity which are set to automatically find the least congested channel to leave my channel free, but allows me to pick up my wireless connection from my parking spot.

Wifi Analyzer might work for you.

Nice, thanks.

So first, based on the added speed tests, I can say that your connection seems quite stable. The ping (connection delay) is a bit high in some instances, but nothing too horrible; and that should not affect resolution, just input delay. The low Jitter (better than mine) seems to indicate a really stable connection actually.

Based on the results you're getting, and especially the "I'm not sure if such a shitty Router can enable it", a likely (not guaranteed, but quite possible) cause for the issues might be that your router is having a hard time dealing with the traffic. Games streaming is kind of unique in the sense that it can't buffer content (send it ahead of time in big blocks), so it can be very hard on routers.

But before you even think of going out and getting a better router, I'd still try and mess around with things as much as possible (no sense in spending money if there is a free fix to your issue). So here is some added info on some of the points above:

>- Try it out inside Incognito Mode (without Chrome extensions)

This one can work surprisingly well. I actually use Firefox as my main browser and since I do some web dev, I also use Chrome a lot... so I have started using the new Edge browser as my "stadia-only" browser. It works quite well (with Stadia as my home page and all).

>- Power Cycle and 30-30-30 method to re-install updates (No idea of what this mean)

This basically just means shut down the router and restart it again.

The "30-30-30" bit is this: Hold down the reset button for 30 seconds, keep it pressed while you unplug the router from the power source for 30 more seconds, and then plug it back in while keeping the button held down for an additional 30 seconds.

But I'd keep that full reset for extreme cases; in almost all cases, just shutting the router off, unplugging it for a few seconds and restarting it should do the trick (no need to use the reset button).

>- "Change the channels to some that are not as heavily trafficked" - Don't know how to do it but I can learn how to do it if you consider it's possible this might be affecting.

I'm fairly certain you can find out how to do that online. You should be able to find instructions by googling something like "set WiFi bands [ROUTER MODEL NAME/NUMBER]"

The idea is that WiFi is a radio signal, so you can check which frequencies are most used around where you are using android apps (stuff like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer), and then set your router to use the bands that are the emptiest so the signal comes through more clearly.

>- Enable "Quality of Service" - I'm not sure if such a shitty Router can enable it.

Same as above, you might find the setting by googling "QoS [ROUTER MODEL/NUMBER]"

-----

Another relevant question; which laptop are you using? (Brand and Model name/number if you know, or CPU/GPU if you know where to look for those).In some cases the issue could be on that end =)

Walk around and find a good signal with your phone

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

Here are a few suggestions (some that others have mentioned) to try. If none work, and the WiFi signal seems fine after testing below, definitely contact support for more assistance (and maybe an equipment swap).

1. Check that you're connected to your Google Fiber network box WiFi, and that your laptop (or phone) isn't accidentally roaming to another one. Often people save others, and your laptop might connect to another one automatically.
2. Check that you have no duplicate WiFi signals being broadcast. If you previously had another access point or router, and it happens to have the same name as what you set your Google Fiber WiFi too, it's possible that your laptop (or phone) will keep switching between them based on which has a stronger signal.
3. Make sure you don't have any ad blockers (or pi-hole) running that are blocking access to the servers you're trying to connect to.
4. Try an alternative DNS server. Here's a guide on how to do that. It may be worth trying Google's DNS server (8.8.8.8 and/or 8.8.4.4) or you could also try Cloudflare's (1.1.1.1 and/or 1.0.0.1)

If none of those works, it's likely a WiFi signal issue. Often apartments have poor WiFi speeds because of congestion caused by lots of WiFi signals in surrounding apartments. So even if your unit is small without any other access point, all of your neighbors may have strong WiFi signals, and sometimes on channels that interfere, which can make your signal really bad. While another provider may be giving you better WiFi speeds, it may just be luck as to which channel a device has chosen rather than the equipment. A few things to take a look at:

1. WiFi analyzer for your Pixel/Android is a pretty good tool to see what signals you can pick-up, and what channels they are on. Note - there are 2 "sets" of channels you can use: 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz. Using 2.4 Ghz channels will mean better reception at further distances, but at the expense of maximum speed. However, for Fiber 100, a 2.4 Ghz channel should provide plenty of speed. But particularly in an apartment environment there might be more congestion.
2. Although there are 11 potential channels for 2.4 Ghz, because any channel you use also impacts a couple of channels above and below, there are really only 3 channels that should be used: 1, 6, or 11. Run the WiFi analyzer tool, and see which of 1, 6, or 11 has the least amount of strong signals also using those channels. E.g., if 1 looks to see many signals, or several strong signals, try 6 or 11.
3. Once you find the best channel (of 1, 6, or 11), change the setting in your Google Fiber network box WiFi Tab to that specific channel, rather than using 'Automatic'. Wait for your device to reconnect to WiFi and then see if that helps.
4. For 5 Ghz channels there is much less overlap, so you have more channels to choose from (more than 20). The analyzer tool can also help you find a 5 Ghz channel without much risk of interference from other signals.

Once you have checked those top settings, and confirmed that you have the optimum WiFi channels selected, here are a few sites to test speeds:

• https://fast.com/ from Netflix
• http://speedtest.net

As others have suggested, it may also be worth testing with your laptop hardwired in using ethernet to the network box to determine if it's your WiFi connection or your internet connection that is causing problems. If you do this, on your Macbook make sure you disable WiFi (or deprioritize it), so that you're making sure you do test the ethernet and that your laptop doesn't still use your WiFi for testing.

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Hope that helps, and definitely contact support for more assistance if none of the above improves your connection.

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Looks like Wifi Analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=nl

This one probably.

>I looked online and it seem you can use it as an access point, wifi repeater, and a wifi bridge.

A "bridge" connects two different networks, not something you need. A "repeater" extends the range of a Wifi signal. You place the repeater some distance from the main source, the "access point", it picks up the signal and "repeats" it, pushing the signal further from the AP. Here's a bit more detail on Speedguide.

As far as speed is concerned, first things first. Connect to the modem with a cable and do a speed test to verify what speed you're getting from AT&T.

Assuming you're getting reasonable speeds the next step is to test the Wifi coverage. This is easiest with a phone app. I use WiFi Analyzer, an Android app. After you install it open it up, find your network and look at the dBm shown. Lower numbers are better, anything above 70 the connection's going to be flaky. Walk around the house a bit, seeing how the signal fluctuates, particularly near your desktop. If the signal's weak in that area you may be able to connect but performance will be hit or miss and you may get disconnects.

You're dealing with two different components, the WiFi AP and the Wifi adapter on the desktop. Not all wireless devices are equal. The specs may be the same but the performance can vary greatly. If the signal at the desktop is strong then you need to look at a better adapter on the desktop. Btw, do post the specs, or make/model, for the adapter on the desktop.

Assuming it is a weak signal then you can A) boost the signal or B) bypass wifi all together.

I have no idea what the performance would be for the Ubee. To boost the signal I'd look at a known good wifi router, like the Netgear Nighthawk series. A more affordable option would be the TP-Link Archer.

Another route is eliminating Wifi by using Powerline networking. That uses the home's electrical wiring to transport the signal. One is plugged in near and connected to the router with a cable. A second one is plugged in near the desktop with a cable running to the desktop.

Some of these will also generate a Wifi signal from the second adapter.

Note: While DD-WRT is great, allows better utilization of compatible routers, it is a bit more advanced. And if the hardware of the router is crap to begin with DD-WRT isn't going to change that. If you want to get your hands dirty go for it, can't hurt. The simpler route is a known good quality router.

Edit: spelling

I use the Android app Wi-Fi Analyzer to do this and test what channel would be ideal https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Download and install Wifi analyzer and post a screencap

You might be experiencing channel interference with nearby networks crowding the spectrum. Use Wifi Analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en) to find out what the most commonly used channel around you is, and set your AP/router to a different channel, e.g. If most devices are broadcasting on channel 1, change yours to 6, or 10, etc.

With some routers, I've seen frequent disconnection problems when the DHCP lease expires. Create a reservation for the Google Home's IP.

This is an unlikely problem, but is your DHCP pool large enough for all the devices in your home?

Wifi analyzer has helped me track down channel contention with my neighbours before (I don't know what the iOS version would be). Run as much as you can on 5 ghz

Are you in a high traffic wireless area? Check your wireless settings, try an app like Wifi Analyzer to see signal strengths.

I had a similar problem with an old router, managed to make it slightly better with settings. Completely disappeared after getting a new router.

Of course, if you're hard-wired, this is clearly not the problem.

Get this app for your phone and see if your neighbours are causing interference.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

My speed is cut in half if a particular neighbour is on the same channel

si te pasa solo con el wifi y vivis en depto, quizas sea tema de saturacion de canales. fijate con el wifi analyzer cuan saturados estan y cambiate manualmente a uno que suela estar vacio. se supone que el modem automaticamente switchea de canal cuando se satura, pero andá saber...
sino pedile a un amigo que tenga el mismo modem que te lo preste un rato, conectalo y fijate si te pasa lo mismo. si no te pasa, es problema del modem tuyo. rompelo (quemalo) y llama para que te den uno nuevo.

802.n pode conectar tanto em redes 2.4Ghz como 5Ghz, verifique no roteador Wi-Fi qual banda tá utilizando, se n conseguir acessar use um app como esse (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=pt) ou veja nos detalhes da conexão Wi-Fi qual a banda utilizada.

As /u/blauster mentioned get Wifi Analyzer and see if there is an empty-ish spot in the spectrum that you can use.

Reduce the channel width from 40MHz to 20MHz and drop down the speed (no need to 300mbps speed if your ISP provides you with 50 ... it just clutters the spectrum with lost packets )

Depending on your house/apartment geometry and router placement you can even benefit from lowering the WiFi power, since signal reflection from walls can disrupt signal integrity. Tinker and find your perfect/best settings by pinging your router from your phone and looking at the packet drops.

And finally - if possible and your devices support 5GHz, get yourself a nice (not $20) router that supports 802.11ac - wider channel width, more channels overall (wider spectrum), less signal wall penetration because of the shorter wavelength hence less interference from neighbors.

This is what comes to mind, if someone has any other ides - please share :)

Instaleaza Wifi Analizer si vezi ce canale sunt ocupate si alege o zona cu cat mai libera.

There is also farproc's Wifi Analyzer.

The EA6350 you have should be enough alone for 10 connections in a small area such as an apartment. I'm thinking it is definitely interference from other networks in the area. The WiFi Analyzer suggestion is probably a good place to start.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

This is the best one available for Android. Look at channels 1, 6, and 11 and see where you'd overlap the least networks and set your router to use that channel. Using Auto can work sometimes but it isn't as good as using this app and looking at where your network best fits.

Theoretical max for that is 867mbps, with 1/3 of that being 289mbps.

As others pointed out, channel congestion and environment effects (walls, wiring, distance) are more than plausible to bring that down to ~200mbps.

What does your WiFi channel spectrum map look like? Use something like this and post a screenshot indicating what your SSID is:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

I work in an IT shop and we've had some odd reliability issues with our TP AC1750s until upgrading their firmware, have you tried that yet?

Also if you have an android phone you can install the WiFi analyzer app which will tell you what the signal looks like in different parts of your house. If you're seeing a more than 50% drop in signal strength when going from next to your router compared to your room signal strength may be the issue.

If you have access to your router, you can try changing the channel settings to minimize interference with other nearby networks. Wifi Analyzer is an app you can use to find the best channel.

Assuming you're playing at home and not at work or a college campus and the issue with ethernet is the distance to your router, you could look into something like these: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG

Plug one into your router and then plug in the other one wherever you play in your house and you'll get all the advantages of an ethernet cable.

In my experience, mostly trial and error. I do use the Android app wifi analyzer to get an idea of the levels at different locations but that's not fool proof. It does nicely show multiple APs at once, though.

How close to the router is the xbox? 5ghz will likely give you higher bandwidth in the same room with line of sight but tends to struggle through walls, whereas 2.4ghz will handle that case much better.

You might want to check for channel congestion as well with something like Wi-fi analyzer although problems like this on the 5ghz band are unlikely.

I think you mentioned that you can see a neighbor's wifi if you do a scan? Download a wifi analyzer app and check that you and your neighbor are not on the same wifi channel. That can cause slowdowns, and the default setting on many routers is channel 6. You should be able to change the channel on your router setup page.

I use this one, it's free:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

If you have the MAC address, just open up Wifi Analyzer, select the target network, switch to signal strength mode, and start walking around. Look for obstacles that mask the transmitter, and surfaces that create bank shots that give false impressions of direction of origin. Keep moving and you'll find it.

Also curious what manner of Rogue AP you're dealing with.

Good luck!

You want a WiFi "scanning application" to accomplish what exactly? Cause if you just want to find channels in use and the signal strength, the free ones work just fine for that...

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Now if you want to find RF interference on anything in the 2.4/5Ghz spectrum, now you have a real justification for a hardware device/dongle.

Try making a wifi profile for yourself.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

If the link doesn't work, it's an app called "Wifi analyzer". Run the app, get familiar with each window. You'll want to slowly walk around your area to see signal strength as well as keeping an eye out for other networks that might be causing interference. This will give you a picture if there are dead zones.

WiFi Analyzer, it's great for troubleshooting wireless issues. Android app link

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

For Android, I use Wifi Analyzer to test wifi points and channels (surprising what just changing the channel of a router would do) and Fing to look at everything on a network without having to roam a building.

If you have an android phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

It may be switching channels, but what you might be running into is that there's lots of traffic on the channel your router selected. In cases such as those, using a smartphone and an app such as this to get a wireless profile can show you which channel would work best for you.

> Wifi analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Not a clue but you can probably find out pretty easily with a wifi scanning android app. It'll show you the channels with least interference. Lemme see if I can find the one I used ages ago...

edit: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_GB

I'm a teacher and use thewirecutter.com to teach my students about good research and fair evaluation practices. They are very thorough and honest in their reviews.

That said:

http://m.thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-cable-modem/

http://m.thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/

About their router choice, that it's for as they say "most people." If you're having connectivity issues, you should probably do two things

Get their "upgrade" choice for best router (from that same article) http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1750-802-11ac-Gigabit-R6400-100NAS/dp/B00Z0V2NQ8?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAJM4NKIQGABP2PIRA&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B00Z0V2NQ8&amp;tag=thewire06-20&amp;ascsubtag=WC29013

And then learn about the difference between 2.5 vs 5 ghz wifi. On mobile or I'd find you a good guide. Use an app like this to see how many other wifi access points are in your area https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en&amp;referrer=utm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dorganic%26utm_term%3Dwifi+analyzer&amp;pcampaignid=APPU_1_vk2IVv2PJ4OvmQGFkZywAQ

Then choose a channel thats not crowded for most of your devices and save the 5ghz for your media devices.

Edit Pm me if you have any questions

I've built a security camera similar to this one. Using a Linux-supported USB camera instead of the Pi camera will make construction much easier; there are esoteric driver support issues but you can still make it work with the Pi cam if you like.

I won't say that it's a difficult Linux project, but unless you've used it before I'd steer you to some of the ~$100 analog security systems. You get the advantage of more cameras at the expense of resolution. FWIW I'm unconvinced most IP camera security systems are able to be secured, so either skip the Internet integration or be aware of the risks.

With a little command-line voodoo you can have your Motion archive automatically backup to Dropbox (or even pictures to a private Twitter). Make sure you audit your camera locations with something like Wifi Analyzer for coverage before you start your build.

Just to add a little to /u/IWillNotBeBroken you can do the basics of what he suggest your self using some freely available tools. I like the android app Wifi Analyzer for doing general site surveys. It will show you what channels are in use and let you gauge your own coverage.

But generally speaking I would not trust a "good router" to handle 20+ Wifi connections. Most good routers are home user grade (linksys, netgear, etc) and not made to handle that much. Depending on the size of the area you are trying to cover I like ubiquiti for smaller places, I'm imagining you as a small office or net cafe? Get a mid range 48port switch you can can wire to all the computers and printers as needed and still have a few ports to install these wifi devices.

This is a really tricky question to answer as a Technical ProTip mainly because the solution is fundamentally local. That said I'll take a stab at some generic instructions and approaches.

There are a lot of things that can go wrong with wifi but they typically fall into a few categories:

• Not enough signal strength
  
• Frequency interference or contention
  
• Improved routers and client devices

Signal strength is fairly straightforward -- you just aren't getting enough radio strength where you want wifi. One should know that metal or stonework tends to interfere much more than drywall and wood. Another issue is human beings -- the wifi spectrum was partially chosen because those frequencies are attenuated by water. And people are basically walking bags of water. One other note -- 5ghz does not penetrate things nearly as well as 2.4ghz. In order to address this you need to either increase the power of the radio or to get the radio closer or improve the client device to something that works better with weaker signals. This is the more likely scenario when you have, say, a telco provided wifi gateway made by the lowest bidder in a large modern suburban home with metal framing and 3000 square feet. This is the scenario where wifi extenders can help.

Interference is probably the trickiest to address without fancy gear. One tool that can help -- and can help for signal strength too -- is an android app called wifi analyizer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en); the graph is more data than it really has but it can pretty effectively show you what the various signal strengths are where you are standing. Anyhow, if you live anywhere reasonably dense than 2.4ghz is probably already shot at this point while 5ghz can be getting tough. Some things one can do is to:

• name your 2.4ghz and 5ghz networks differently, clients aren't good at picking the "better" one
  
• use 20mhz channels -- if things are tight in the air then having a narrower band is better than a wider but easier to interfere with; most apps work well with 3-5 consistent megabits as opposed to 0-10 spotty megabits.
  
• do NOT use wifi range extenders here; they work by effectively halving the airspace by broadcasting a second radio
  

Finally, devices matter here. On the router side you really need some umph to deal with modern security protocols in realtime. Antennas can only do one thing at one time so MIMO is a key feature. Your 10 year old DD-WRT is not cutting the mustard. Your telco-provided wifi gateway / modem probably is not but they are getting a bit better here as people are starting to judge the services in terms of wifi performance. In any case I would run with a newer, better rated, multi-band, 3x3 MIMO enabled AP if you can swing it. Expect to spend $125 on this device. I'm not quite hung up on AC yet as AC clients aren't out there so I don't feel the need to pay that premium. If you want to get fancier I recommend looking at unifi APs as they have great radios at a pretty decent price point. If you don't have a price point just buy Ruckus.

Clients matter perhaps as much as the AP. Generally, smaller devices have a smaller antenna which typically is weaker. Professional-grade laptops tend to have more, better antennas than netbooks, etc. IoT devices are especially weak here -- they feature wifi chips and antennas made by the lowest vendor. Finally, software can matter here too -- a great antenna and chip with weak drivers is still weak.

Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...

• WifiInfoView (for Vista, 7, 8) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
• WirelessNetView (for XP) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html
• Wifi Analyzer (for Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
• inSSIDer (the free/office version was great, but harder to find today)

Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number) in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.

Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...

• to use whatever channel is free (and furthest away from any other used channels)
• if there are no free channels then pick the channel that is the weakest around you
• do not let your router use "auto" for the channel
• setting the wireless to 20Mhz bandwidth may yield better results than 20/40Mhz

You might also benefit from using Google DNS which is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (rather than your ISP's DNS servers which are often lousy) After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.

Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router. (linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously) Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"

You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)

If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler. You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.

Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...

• other people's wireless on the same or neighboring channels (someone could have suddenly changed their channel, left their's on "auto" or added another AP)
• baby monitors
• walkie talkies
• microwaves
• cordless phones (use DECT 6.0 cordless phones, which actually use 1.6Ghz to avoid the 2.4Ghz/5Ghz used by wireless networks)
• wireless audio/video senders or security cameras (many of these are extremely noisy 2.4Ghz)
• wireless intercom or doorbells

Is the box (router) in the basement by any chance? Basements have thick walls with lots of reinforcing materials so it can be hard for a signal to get through. Perhaps you can place it upstairs since that's where it gets the most use?

Or if you live in an apartment (high rise?) you probably have lots of WiFi signals competing in close proximity with yours. There's an app for your phone called WiFi Analyzer that can help you determine if this is the case. In this situation, I'm afraid you'll simply have to find a way to amplify your own WiFi signal which means investing in a more powerful router.

And finally you can always go wired. As in use an ethernet cable. I guarantee that you will get consistent speeds wherever you are in the house. Of course the downside with this is you have to run a physical line from the router to wherever you are.

You should also download the wifi analyzer app that is recommended by FIRST. It will tell you the use of each channel. For the best results, switch to a channel 5 channels away from the saturated one. Here is a link to the app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

It depends. It can be very good, just like cell quality. But the very nature of wifi poses some potential issues. If your local airspace is full of interference or you have lots of wifi clients, voice quality can suffer in the form of drops, artifacts, or echo.

You can help make sure you have a wifi environment better suited for voice over wifi by making sure your wifi is broadcasting on an open channel (use an App like Wifi Analyzer to find which channel is most clear). By using 5GHz you are more likely to find clear airspace.

Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...

• WifiInfoView (for Vista, 7, 8) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
• WirelessNetView (for XP) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html
• Wifi Analyzer (for Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
• inSSIDer (the free/office version was great, but harder to find today)

Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number) in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.

Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...

• to use whatever channel is free (and furthest away from any other used channels)
• if there are no free channels then pick the channel that is the weakest around you
• do not let your router use "auto" for the channel
• setting the wireless to 20Mhz bandwidth may yield better results than 20/40Mhz

You might also benefit from using Google DNS which is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (rather than your ISP's DNS servers which are often lousy) After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.

Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router. (linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously) Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"

You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)

If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler. You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.

Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...

• other people's wireless on the same or neighboring channels (someone could have suddenly changed their channel, left their's on "auto" or added another AP)
• baby monitors
• walkie talkies
• microwaves
• cordless phones (use DECT 6.0 cordless phones, which actually use 1.6Ghz to avoid the 2.4Ghz/5Ghz used by wireless networks)
• wireless audio/video senders or security cameras (many of these are extremely noisy 2.4Ghz)
• wireless intercom or doorbells

I'm assuming all (or most) of the devices are on WiFi?

It could be your router shitting out on you. It could also be congestion though. That first thing I'd check is what the 2.4GHz band looks like around your router and the devices connected via WiFi. If you have an android device, this app is super handy. There are also iOS apps that do the same. Ideally, everyone should be on channels 1, 6, or 11. Unfortunately, you can't really do anything about your neighbors not playing nice with that.

With an android device install WiFi Analyzer. Walk around the house until the signal is strongest, I suspect a wireless printer.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Have you looked at the Wifi Channels?

The channel you are using might be congested and causing the low throughput

I'm using Wifi Analyzer on Android to see how many networks are using the same channels in my apartment block and then setting the AP to use the least congested channel

I'm not a big Apple fan, but I'm betting that in some ways this choice is less of a deliberate decision than an omission. Because Apple doesn't allow access to hardware except through fairly restrictive APIs, apps can't do things unless Apple makes a way for you to do it (a good example: file system access). Eventually, I'd bet that they will provide an API to talk to the NFC. But I'm betting that they won't allow certain things (like payment apps) to use it. If they do plan to allow some API access to the NFC, they're probably hard at work locking it down so people can only do what Apple wants them to with it. There is, of course, the possibility that they will never open it up, too.

This is the same reason that you have these handy WiFi scanner apps (for doing impromptu little site surveys or just checking on what channels are the clearest in your home) on Android, but no equivalent on iOS devices. They just don't provide the access to get that kind of information from the wireless chipset. At least that's my understanding of the matter.

Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...

• WifiInfoView (for Vista, 7, 8) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
• WirelessNetView (for XP) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html
• Wifi Analyzer (for Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
• inSSIDer (the free/office version was great, but harder to find today)

Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number) in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.

Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...

• to use whatever channel is free (and furthest away from any other used channels)
• if there are no free channels then pick the channel that is the weakest around you
• do not let your router use "auto" for the channel
• setting the wireless to 20Mhz bandwidth may yield better results than 20/40Mhz

You might also benefit from using Google DNS which is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (rather than your ISP's DNS servers which are often lousy) After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.

Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router. (linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously) Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"

You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)

If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler. You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.

Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...

• other people's wireless on the same or neighboring channels (someone could have suddenly changed their channel, left their's on "auto" or added another AP)
• baby monitors
• walkie talkies
• microwaves
• cordless phones (use DECT 6.0 cordless phones, which actually use 1.6Ghz to avoid the 2.4Ghz/5Ghz used by wireless networks)
• wireless audio/video senders or security cameras (many of these are extremely noisy 2.4Ghz)
• wireless intercom or doorbells

Para Android, existe o Wifi Analyzer

Stop guessing.

Install this shit, walk around your house and adjust signal/position/channel accordingly.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Is this for all wifi devices that you own? If so, use wifi analyzer and try switching to a less congested channel, e.g. 1, 6, or 11 in your router settings.

>interference could be maybe

Sounds like it. Head over to the play store and install Wifi Analizer. If you're on iOS, you're out of luck Apple has banned these basic utilities. There are several options for OSX and Win, just do a search for wifi scanning tool.

Run a scan and see how many other networks are in your area and determine hat channels they are operating in. Then try and chose a channel with the least noise/interference.

This may be impossible in apartment complexes in the 2.4GHz band, in which case you'll need to upgrade your devices to a 5GHz band.

DNS has no effect of what you're doing.

I have an app on my phone that is basically a WIFI spectrum analyser.

It will show you at a glance what WIFI channels are in use and what is available.

Set a channel on your travelling router that no one else is using and you're golden.

>So off I went, plugged it in, set up a network just between my laptop and the router, got into the admin panel, changed wifi names (reception in my room is quite bad so added benefit I thought)(1), disabled the DHCP server, set its local ip to the static ip(2) I assigned in the main router, applied changes and while rebooting I plugged in the ethernet cable to the main router. It worked! Glorious internet and wifi all in my room. Now time to put it in a more sensible position (not the middle of my desk).

Sound like you are trying to setup a WiFi accesspoint/switch to the existing network by with the end goal of connecting the WAN port on your router to a LAN port on the building - does that sound right?

1. This had nothing to do with your issue at hand but..... The channel is what matters the most; if you have lots of neighbors or close buildings with WiFi - you'll want to make sure you are on the 5GHz (vs. 2.4GHz) - but after you've settled on a band, use an app like play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer to make sure you are not on an overlapping channel of a neighbor on that band.
2. This is likely what broke your network. I believe you have an IP conflict..... why did you assign an IP to your new AP/switch? I understand you might have needed to do this (though unlikely) to access the router, but once you are done setting up you need to let the network's router which handles DCHP or static IPs to assign your router an the correct IP. If he router uses static, you still don't need to set it in your AP - the router will handle that.

I think if you just removed the static IP prior to rebooting AP and plugging into the buildings LAN port you would have been fine.

0.0% is the only acceptable amount, I really can't stress this enough.

Basically what's happening is the viewer is shooting bullets of data at your viewer which is then failing to catch some of those bullets.

This UDP data is intended for time sensitive information that has no value after the moment has passed. For example, avatar movement is sent over UDP, if the viewer misses some of this, it makes no sense to send the old out of date data again.

However .. SL still sends some actually important data out over UDP, which you miss .. and then things break.

If you're on wifi, and can't switch to a wired connection. Try to make sure you have line of sight to your router from the computers antenna (laptops have it in the back or top of the screen). Metal can bounce the signal like a fair ground mirror, block it or mess it up. Other electronics can mess with the signal, or trash it completely (microwave oven). Water will block it entirely .. you're made of water (so don't sit between your computer and the router - pipes in walls are bad too)

If you have an android phone there are apps that will show you the signal strength of all the different wifi signals it can pick up (like this one), and will help you diagnose where in your home the signal is poor. too much wifi on the same channel can also cause problems and (if) you should be able to manually set your router to pick a less busy channel rather than "auto".

If you can run a ethernet cable from your router to your computer you will have a better time (and much faster, more reliable network speeds).

If you're on a wired connection already and having a persistent problem, then its likely a hardware issue - the ethernet cable might be bad, one thing to try is switch the router off before bed and back on when you wake, failing that .. it's time to call your ISP and hope you can get someone to take you serious when you say you have "packet loss with UDP data" .. and have the patience to jump though all the hoops.

It's been a while, but I believe so. I think this is it.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

You should run a wifi analyzer and see how crowded the wifi channels are

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

>any good tool (preferably

you can use your phone with a wifi analyzer such as:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

or Inssider for PC (I think the latest version is free you will need only to create an account)

https://www.metageek.com/support/downloads/download-inssider-win.html

I suggest to another users that could be an issue with the 5Ghz network channels. Because my PS5 can handle 5Ghz just fine.

I never got any response, so I'm not sure if it's the issue or not.

Can you check wich channels are your 5GHz network using? You can use a phone app like this one.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Vorrei aggiungere due cose:

1. Se abiti in un appartamento è anche possibile che alcuni canali siano saturi. Io uso questa questa app (wifi analyzer) per indagare. Niente di speciale ma ti da un'idea di quello che hai attorno.
2. Usa solo i canali 1, 6 o 11. Altrimenti la sovrapposizione dello spettro aumenta le interferenze e diminuisce le velocità. Quindi se un router è sul 6 metti l'altro sull'1 per esempio.

try on Ethernet and report back. wifi analyzer might be of some help https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

some routers use automatic switching between channels but sometimes they aren't so smart. you might try a less busy channel

According to the 670G user guide page 339 / pdf page 357, you should keep your pump at least 1 metre away from 802.11b, 11g, 11n transmitters (and presumably 11ax as well). If they've actually thoroughly tested that then it's conceivable your wifi router is pumping out more power than it ought to.

I can't see how the speed of your internet being upgraded would have any direct influence unless perhaps a reset of your router to a default channel was involved.

Plenty of routers and devices these days will work in the 5GHz part of the spectrum, so if all your devices will talk at 5GHz you could just disable the 2.4GHz network entirely. 5GHz signals don't penetrate through walls as well as 2.4GHz ones do, so if you have a larger home this might not be an option.

2.4GHz wifi signals are centered on a number of channels depending upon which country's radio regulation system they are subject to. In the US channels 1 (2412MHz) through 11 (2462MHz) are available. Try changing it to either 1 or 11 to see if you can eliminate the pump interference that way.

Some routers have a setting for either 20MHz or 40MHz of bandwidth: 20MHz will interfere to some extent up to 2 channels away in either direction, while 40MHz will interfere to some extent up to 4 channels away. Switch it to 20MHz if you have the option, your 15Mbps won't be bottlenecked.

Some routers have a power level setting; dialling this back may also help.

It's conceivable that it's not your network at all but coincidentally a neighbour's: if you have a smartphone try Wifi Analyzer for Android which I use myself, or I believe NetSpot has equivalent functionality on iOS. Should let you see which wifi networks in your vicinity are using which channel and how powerful their signals are where you are. For reference my (20MHz bandwidth) 2.4GHz network is on channel 5 and most of the places I use it from it has a signal strength of about -50dBm and doesn't give me any pump issues.

You have too much interference. 2.4 has 3 channels-1,6,or 11. If you take your two plus half of the others you have 7, which means each channel has two different signals competing.

Make sure your extender matches your router SSID, put them both on the same channel, and move your cordless phones as far away as possible until you can throw them out. The bases are always sending locator signals out, so it's constant signal interference.

If you have an android device, download WIFI Analyzer from farproc. It will show you all of your interference and help you see what is causing it. If you have Apple products, then you get what you deserve.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US&amp;gl=US

Well there's a couple things I've noticed.

You need a halfway decent PC. I tried VD through my brothers PC which has an Intel i5 something in it, and a 1060 gpu, and every game is a stuttery mess.

On my PC, which is still pretty dated, 4790k and 1080ti, it's buttery smooth in all games.

&#x200B;

Also, the quest 2 should be connected to a 5ghz network. You want a good strong signal and not have the router on one side of the house while you're playing on the other side of the house. Make sure you're seeing good connection speeds to your router. Also, I've read that wifi interference can play a role in this so try and use a wifi analyzer app on the android store and check which channels are showing up around your area. You want to pick a channel that's not overlapping with another. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US&amp;gl=US

Also, did you try any other games? I've really only had issues with 1 game through VD, but most of them work great.

Make sure you don't have a ton of stuff running in the background of your PC. I've had this make my experience not so smooth.

Lastly, it does help a bit if your PC is hardwired to your router. It will make for a slightly smoother experience, although a perfect WIFI setup can work.

> WiFi Analyzer

I've been using Farproc's WiFi Analyzer for years and years. It hasn't been updated for a while but it still works on Android 10.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

That being said, recently I've been using the Ubiquiti Wi-Fi app WiFiman instead:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.usurvey&amp;hl=en

There are various mobile apps that will show you all the networks in your area and their channels and relative signal strength. It's at least helpful for finding better channels to use. I use Wifi Analyzer on Android.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

The only thing that I really miss from Android is the ability to fully examine your wireless environment using an app like Wifi Analyzer. It allows you to see what channels wifi in your area is using and the relative strengths. This is handy information if you are planning wireless networks. It really just means I have to drag my LG V30 with me if I want to do any of that kind of work.

Move it just to test it temporarily. It's a troubleshooting step to see if that does fix the issue and help confirm if your existing connections are the actual problem. Wifi bouncing stuff back and forth is definitely a problem. The more you have actively using a wifi channel, the more those signals have to "share" it and get undercut. Even great wifi that has a strong connection can still see the signal be wobbly enough that is messes with what Plex is trying to do. Plex calculates what bandwidth it thinks it has, and having wifi in the chain makes that calculation incorrect before it can recalculate and correct to account for it. If you have a smartphone on the same wifi and channel that decides it wants to update all it's apps, you lose bandwidth. If you are in an apartment complex and a neighbor comes home and fires up Netflix over a wifi connection, you can lose bandwidth.

Have you done a wifi scan at your home before? It's pretty fascinating and worth taking a swing at. There are some smartphone apps that let you do it really easily.

This is the one on Android I've been using for as long as I can remember. Check if your channel is clogged up and maybe force using another channel.

I used WiFi Analyzer on Android and monitor the dBm as I walk around.

Your internet speed is irrelevant for ALVR and Virtual Desktop. What matters is your local network speed.

Getting yourself a wifi analyzer app and adjust your wifi router so it's on the least congested channel. There are other settings to tweak but this will be the most significant factor.

They'll have an antenna on the back panel of the case. An external antenna may or may not perform better. If you're a great distance from your wifi router, you may need a wifi extender, which is basically a second router. There are phone apps that allow you to test wifi strength.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Which one? There's many apps with that name. I use both of these, and they both work for me:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

More than likely this one, I have been using it for years for easy WiFi troubleshooting in your hand. It is not as good as InSSIDer on a laptop with a dongle, but can find simple things very easily.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

I was going to say that.

If you have an Android phone get ---> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_AU

Check the list (2.4ghz and also 5ghz) make sure you aren't overlapping any other wireless networks. If you are, or are close, change your modem/router to a clear channel.

a wifi spectral analysis tool would be really good here to figure out where your deadzones are.I personally use this:https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

then from there, you can research if you need a repeater or if you need to dive deeper. Depending on the age and size of your house, you may need to research a good repeater or maybe even buy a second wifi router that can act as a repeater.

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Mesh networks are really used for the gigantic mansions and places where the floor space exceeds 2500 sqft.

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Even then, type-N and type-AC wifi should have the ability to broadcast strong enough to cover that kind of space. You might just need to relocate your wifi router into a more central place in your house

Ya, makes sense - apartment complexes are notorious for having wifi interference. Basically every wifi device, phone, tablet, laptop, everything are all fighting for dominance from every neighbor, etc.

If you want an eye-opener, try this on a cell phone to see what a nightmare you have there in your area for both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. 5 GHz is faster but shorter range/weaker, while 2.4 GHz is slower and stronger but has way more devices generally fighting each other.

Here is the Google Play link to the one I use. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

Wifi Analyzer for Android is pretty handy. You can wander around your house and see the signal strength, and the interference from your neighbors' networks.

Hint: If you're in a crowded neighborhood and still on 2.4Ghz, fix that first. There aren't enough non-overlapping channels in the 2.4GHz wifi band to support any amount of busy neighbors.

Generically, you log into your router, and go into the wifi configuration part
your routers IP address is your gateway address, usually.

You can use use something like this on an android phone to check out your wifi channel situation

WIFI Analyzer

Question, have you tested an ethernet connection to make sure your internet in general is working fine and that the problem is only the wifi?

No problem. You can check signal strength and channel congestion with a cell phone - look up 'Wifi Analyzer' and try that.

Having a bit of networking knowledge is helpful.

You could add range extenders, or have a separate access point with the same SSID. There's also 'Powerline' adapters as a more extreme option. It's probably not necessary in most cases though.

If you have your own router, and it's newer (my situation) broadcast both the 2.4 GHz and 5.0 GHz bands. 2.4 will propagate better, but has lower throughput. 2.4 is also used in microwaves, cordless devices, and other networks - so experiences a lot of traffic. Usually the 5 GHz band is less saturated.

You can name both however you want (even the same), and the device will usually bounce back and forth as needed.

Also, maybe try a free WiFi analyzer to make sure you aren't using the same band as all of your neighbors.

Another tip is to elevate the router closer to the ceiling and away from other objects (especially big metal cabinets, etc.) if possible.

All my capsman deployments have been with basic 2.4GHz radios for barcode scanners so I'm not super familiar with running a hAP AC with capsman.

That said, I think you need to add extension channels to your 5GHz config in capsman. You've posted your /wireless config but I'm pretty sure it all gets "commented out" by capsman, so it's really just showing you what your radios would be doing if cap mode wasn't enabled.

If you have an Android phone, I highly recommend the app Wifi Analyzer. In the settings for the app, you can enable displaying wide channels. Then on the graph it displays, you'll see a wider parabola over the frequencies your hAP is taking up.

Okay. I'm assuming you've got the newest drivers from the other comment above- I'll leave it up to you to find any common issues with that wireless adapter.

With you being in an apartment, you're very likely to have radio interference from neighbors..but you say your other devices work fine..

Are you testing all your devices on the same wifi network? How do you know you're connected using 5ghz? Do you have 2.4ghz turned off on your router or is it separated with a separate SSID? I'm asking because interference is much more likely on the 2.4Ghz band (and still possible on the 5Ghz band).

If you're curious, you could use an app to view which channels are being used in your vicinity, and see if you have any kind of overlap with neighbors.

• If you have an android device you can use this app

• if you have a macOS device here is another

• for windows here

I'm happy to interpret your results if you need help.

I use Wi-fi Analyser for Android.

It'll show you all the received SSID, what channel they are on, hardware ID, signal strength meter so you can track down what's broadcasting a particular SSID.

You should jump over to /r/homenetworking for better help. But for starters, download a wifi analyzer like this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

and scan.

• See if your WiFi is operating on the same channel as everyone else, and try adjusting the channels to see if you can get a channel that's less used to clean up the signal.
• See if moving your router around to different locations helps give better speeds where you need them most.
• Log into your router and see the power output for the different radios (2.4 and 5.0), and see if increasing your 2.4 radio (2.4 is going to be your primary long haul wifi radio, while 5.0 offers higher speeds but for short ranges) gives better speeds where you need them most.

The issue with Google WiFi is that while it's only 1 wireless hop from your device to the mesh station, then it's a wireless hop from that to the next mesh station. and another to the next. And so on until it gets to the main station. That latency adds up quick.

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There's a myriad of solutions though, but my first step would really be to analyze your WiFi as it exists and see if it's something as simple as you're just sitting on a highly used channel or are underpowering certain radios. Those cost absolutely nothing, and can breathe new life into an existing setup instantly.

1. Are you connected through wifi? Wifi channels can suffer from interference. Especially on 2.4Ghz. use this app to check.
2. analyze your problem. open cmd/powershell and ping your router, then open another and ping some external IP (like google dns, 8.8.8.8). use the -t option to ping forever (you cancel it with ctrl+c). Go play a few games and compare increased latencies with ping. If the spikes are to your router it's your network, if spikes are only to the external IP it's your ISP.
3. Once you determined it's not your network contact your ISP, be persistent, demand to be escalated, insist on tech visit if they can't help you remotely.

Virtually nobody?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

10,000,000+ Installs, 4.4 Stars from 339,155 reviews.

Then at first sight there is no network problem. Try to do the same pathping again when you detect the connection is failing to see if there is still a 0%.

If you encounter any losing packets on any IP with pathping, you can use https://www.ripe.net/ to search who is the owner of that IP and send a support case to Blizzard and the Owner of the IP (probably an ISP).

If you still do not encounter any losing packets, then probably you are the problem.

Do you use DHCP on your router? if that is the case maybe you have something like 1 hour ip address expiration time and when expired, your computer renews it forcing a micro cut. Check your router configuration.

Do you connect via WIFI? check that you are not using an overexposed wifi channel on your router configuration. I particularly like this android APP https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer to check what channels are more free in my building/area to configure my wifi channel.

I use this one on my android phone as its quick and simple https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

There should be one for apple if you are an iphone user.

If you are familiar with some wifi tools in linux and have the proper wifi adapter, you can use airodump-ng

There must be some apps you can download as well if you are a windows user.

This could be useful. I would really like a tool that would give me -60 dBm to -30 dBm like a geiger counter, but update faster. Like the Signal Meter function on the Android App https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US but that updates fast, not every 15 seconds or so like the app does, and one that tells me with some signal difference whether I'm a few feet away vs. dozens of feet away.

It's possible that you may just be experiencing channel interference. This is especially common in apartments where everyone has their own router. You can use a Wi-Fi analyzer app to see which channels are more or less populated and select the one with the fewest networks and then manually select that channel in the router's Wi-Fi configuration. You'll have to do this for both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. Then use the same app to test your Wi-Fi signal around the apartment and see if you have any dead zones. If you've done all that, and you're still having issues, then yes, you probably need a new router.

Ahh, may want to poke his WiFi. Usually when doing shared SSID/PSK without a controller, you want some management on the ethernet; unless the other APs are repeaters. Next time you get a look, check what flags are used on their WiFi..

WiFi Analyser can help, and look for preauth - If it's not present, then it'll connect to whichever one responds first, which isn't always the strongest.

> Nota-se muito uma perda de qualidade na ligação?

Depende de muitas variáveis, distância, interferências, tipo de construção, etc. Se tiveres vizinhos, não é pior instalares o WiFi Analyzer no telemóvel e verificar que canais estão livres.

Além de repetidores simples, podes sempre adicionar um Access Point, ligado por cabo ao router principal e colocar num ponto diferente da casa.

Na Radio Popular: https://www.radiopopular.pt/categoria/redes-wi-fi-internet/

Se quiseres gastar pouco dinheiro, o RE200 não é mau de todo para utilização doméstica, ou mesmo o WA850RE. Em alternativa (e mais caro), os da Asus.

Powerline, não recomendo e sou completamente contra, devido às interferências que causam.

The ones provided by ISPs are of varying quality. BT claims there's is good (I beleive it is) and uses it as the main selling point of their internet offerings. Personally I got an ASUS DSL-AC67U years ago, and its been fantastic (so quality of the ISP-provided router is irrelevant to me, it juts sits in its box), but it's also expensive beyond what is reasonable for most people's use cases.

It's worth diving in to the provided router's settings page first, and investigating a few things:

• Can you seperate the 5ghz and 2.4ghz in to two seperately named networks? This way you can connect devices close enough to the faster 5ghz network, and devices further away to the slower, but longer ranged 2.4. Most devices that are capable of both will prefer 5ghz - fine, but not always what you want when you are on the range limit.

• Can you change the channel of the two networks? Many ISP routers default to a particular channel - which may be a crowded one. You can get a wifi scanner app for your phone (I use this one https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_GB) to see which channels have the least other networks on and switch to that.

• If any of your devices that are having trouble are fixed in place, you could also look in to either a network cable, or failing that, powerline adapters - these transmit network signals through your domestic wiring. How well it works depends on a bunch of factors, but it can work very well indeed. You can also get powerline wifi extenders, which are normally a better bet than the "wifi-wifi extenders" which are problematic in a whole bunch of ways.

I asked cuz OP wants to buy a range extender, but if you don't have a router in your apartment where would you plug it in? Range extenders are meant to be plugged into the router, not the computer, afaik. Someone should definitely start by locating the router or modem. If you can't find it, use an app like this one to measure the signal strength and play a game of getting warmer to find it.

The slow speeds could be 1) due to WiFi signal interference OR 2) due to slow or congested Internet to the router. Either way, OP's idea probably won't help. The best way to determine the cause is to plug your computer directly via ethernet into the modem/router and then do a speed test with this website. Save a screenshot of the results. If the wired connection speed is fast, it is due to cause #1, if slow then cause #2.

1) If it is WiFi signal interference, the best solution is to add a 5 GHz WiFi range extender (preferably wireless-ac) which should ideally be connected via wired ethernet to the modem.

2) If it is slow connection from modem to ISP, the ONLY solution is for the ISP to do something. Call Spectrum (I assume that's your ISP) and ask them to send a technician out. Ask them to check the cable connection (sometimes these old cables are bad), and ask them to check that the modem is good (old modems might not support higher speeds).

Try to narrow channel band to 40Mhz (enought even for 120Mbps)

https://imgur.com/a/pw19kGu

and set a static channel by checking less bussy one with

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_CA

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Both great choices.

I have the TPlink and it’s fantastic. Had an older TPlink and after 7 years it started to crap out (wifi started dropping). Our home is two levels and signal is great everywhere on 2.5 and 5

The Asus is meant to be very good too and (I think, you’ll need to check) firmware available to turn into a mesh system, meaning you can have multiple ones in your big place and it will work as one. That’s would be a big plus for you in case you need better coverage later.

5ghz problems, try setting different channels on the router, you can use an android app (apple doesn’t seem to have something as good for free) called wifi analyser https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer and see if there interference

The 3rd choice is good too, has two 5ghz wifi channels, TPlink also has similar, ac5400 I think, that will be cheaper about the price of the asus 86. It has a really fast 2.4ghz signal too.

Choice is yours, I have used to link routers and really happy with them (price is good too) support in Australia is a local team that answers the phone quickly, not a call centre. I have read the asus are about the best but no experience with them. My choice would be TPlink ac5400, currently their top router, or the similar asus.

If the ping spikes happen within the router IPs then yeah something definitely happened internally. I used to use https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en to scan for wifi signal overlaps and pick a fixed channel away from the crowded channels on router setting.

I also reduced broadcast power down to 75% and insure i still have 4 to max bars. Tweaked Wifi adapter properties that scans for the router more often to prevent connection timeout to router. Increased the send and receive buffer size and disable jumbo frames to reduce data packets transfer delay.

That doesn't make any sense at all. The wi-fi quality it's not your countries fault, most probably your router is set to a saturated channel. I recommend using the WiFi Analyzer App, which shows you how crowded a channel is:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Also, you have the option to buy a 5G wi-fi router as well, which probably will do much better because this wave length is much less used, and capable of handling a much higher bandwidth.

If you have an Android...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Find out if your channels are being flooded

Boa tarde!

Então cara, o que tava te passando até agora era sobre rede cabeada, se está pensando em testar a conexão pelo Wi-Fi acho melhor nem começar... Vou te explicar o porquê.

A rede Wi-Fi que temos hoje trabalha em uma radiofrequência aberta de 2.4GHz, por se tratar de uma frequência aberta ela não necessita de liberação/homologação logo se tornou o padrão de todos os roteadores. O problema é que essas redes de Wi-Fi causam interferência entre si caso estejam em frequências próximas. O roteador convencional tem 11 canais entrei 2.4(Canal 1) e 2.49(Canal 11). Esses canais podem ser alterados direto no roteador, e pra saber qual melhor canal se encaixa é necessário analisar na sua área quais os canais mais congestionados, os mais usados para Wi-Fi são 1,3,6,9,11 com cada região tendo suas preferências e/ou lendas/mitos pra explicar qual funciona melhor. Tem esse aplicativo para Android que ajuda a analisar quais os melhores canais aí por perto. Sobre o Wi-Fi 5G, ele é meio que uma solução pro problema atual do 2.4GHz tanto pra parte da interferência quanto pra parte da velocidade, porém pra poder conectar nele o equipamento precisa ser b/g/n/ac pois o AC significa que é compátivel com redes 5Ghz. Ele tem capacidade para conexões acima de 100mb enquanto o 2.4GHz eu particularmente nunca vi passar de 80 +/-

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Use this app on your phone an use the signal strength to find the AP. It has an analogue guage and if you hit the sound button it starts beeping, the beeping will get faster the closer you get to the AP.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

It should take you straight to it.

Si c'est la box ça peut être qu'elle est fatiguée (le SAV SFR peut diagnostiquer ça et la remplacer, ils ont fait ça pour mes parents).

Peut être aussi que ta box émet le Wifi sur un canal encombré. Télécharge l'appli Wifi Analyzer (Android), pour scanner les canaux (fais ça à côté de ta box, mais aussi à côté de ton PC récepteur). Regarde les canaux environnants, et choisis-en un pas encombré.

Exemple avec le réseau de mes parents que j'avais scanné pour optimiser. Ma box est sur la droite, sur les bandes les moins encombrées (canal 11), avec le moins d'atténuation, donc le meilleur signal. Les autres box se battent en duel sur les canaux encombrés.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7OBUU

Moca 2 adapters that will do 1gb/s are fairly expensive, you need 2 of them so a total of $140 per link. However, this approach plus a cheap access point will give you better coverage than having a single more expensive access point.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

Measure the strength of your wifi and your neighbors at various points around your house. You want to set your access points to channels with the least amount of interference, for the best performance.

If you have an android phone I recommend this app:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

ok.. I see you have an android device, try out this WiFi Analyzer

it will allow you to find the least congested channel frequencies and it also gives you suggestions which channel might be best to use.

the thing with WiFi, especially the 5GHz band, is you can be sitting at one spot, have excellent signal but as soon as you move, even a few inches, the signal level drops.

that's WiFi for you, and tbh there is nothing Comcast can do about it other than replacing a defective rental gateway.

despite their constant commercials harping on their "fastest wifi", the only thing they can and will do is get you good signal to the modem, and if the expected speeds are achieved testing via ethernet, then their job is done.

TV is for me linked it below

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

One thing you can check would be for wifi interference. You can use a wifi scanner app for your phone (I really like Wifi Analyzer on Android, it's free and open source) and see if there are e.g. a bunch wifi networks on the same channel as yours.

It sounds like Wi-Fi problems to me. Try with a wired connection and see if still happens or not.

If you have lots of other Wi-Fi signals around you this can cause problems. This app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer may help. You can try manually changing channels on your router.

There also could be some device like a microwave or cordless phone causing interference.

Get yourself a wifi analyzer app and make sure your TPCast router is not on the same channel as any other wifi access point. If there is another device using the same channel (or partially overlapping) you're going to have performance issues.

If you look at the sample photo the "home" wireless access point is isolated on it's own channel where all the other ones have full or partial overlap which will affect overall performance. So when you change your TPCast channel make sure it's not in use by another device. Read the instructions here on how to access the router config and make changes.

In addition to the channel also try changing the channel bandwidth to 20mhz instead of auto/80mhz. Since the TPCast is the only device using the router you don't need the wider channel bandwidth and it just leads to more overlap/conflict with other routers.

I've heard other users have gotten good results changing the Network Mode from "11vht AC/AN/A" to "11a only" but I personally didn't a notice any difference.

For me the major performance hit is when another wireless access point is on the same channel as my TPCast router and before every gaming session I check to make sure none of my neighbors are on the same channel.

Wifi Analyzer

I don't have a Rift but Vive has two audio output sources (HDMI and USB) you can use.

If you use USB with TPCast the audio goes over the wifi connection but if you use HDMI it goes over the 60ghz connection. If you have the option you might want to try one or the other and see if you get better results.

Small stutters could be from wifi interferance. Get yourself a Wifi Analyzer and make sure your TPCast router isn't fighting for bandwidth with another wifi access point near you.

Also, you can try switching modes used on the router to "11a only" as some folks have reported better results this way.

Asta e viteza când routerul merge în standardul G. Standardele de WiFi sunt B (cel mai vechi și lent), G, N, AC (cel mai nou și rapid). Routerul suportă măcar N sau AC?

Problemă ar putea fi (deși mai improbabil) cu calculatorul... dacă e un laptop destul de vechi, ar putea să nu suporte decât standardul G. Vezi dacă și pe alte device-uri merge lent.

Altă problemă ar putea fi, cum au spus și ceilalți, interferența cu alte routere. Sunt tooluri cu care poți verifica cât sunt de aglomerate canalele de wifi (de exemplu). Banda 2.4GHz pe care merg majoritatea routerelor e destul de aglomerată, ai wifi-urile vecinilor, bluetooth, cuptorul cu microunde care tot pe frecvența asta emit. E posibil ca setarea routerului să meargă pe 5 GHz (trebuie să scrie pe el că suportă 5GHz) să se rezolve problema.

I’m thinking start simple, which would presume good hardware until the easy stuff of troubleshooting software is figured out. The premise is to keep eliminating variables.

A few questions come to mind:

• How strong is the signal - is this happening usually in the same area? Walls and such could cause a low/unstable connection if you’re far from the access point. Test: Go within a few feet of, but not right next to, the access point and try then after restarting the XD.

• You could download a WiFi scanner software for Android which will show you all the access points,, channels, etc for where you are. Some things to look for would be overlapping channels within the same frequency, crowded frequency (too many different access points), etc. This is the one I’ve used in the past: WiFi Analyzer

• Has it been a while since the access point was restarted? It’s not a bad idea to restart them every so often. It’s at least worth a shot to keep troubleshooting.

• Is there another access point you could try such as a neighbor or even use your phone as an access point (hotspot)? Would be worth a try, at least.

Let’s see how those pan out...

Αν αφορά μόνο wifi, ίσως η λύση να ειναι απλή. Ας δοκιμασει με το innSSIDer Lite(Windows,download page σε στελνει απευθειας) ή κατι όπως το Wifi Analyzer(Android). Σε μικρη πόλη μένω και με τόσα άλλα wifi γύρω μου, με ~4 wifi συσκευες δυσκολεύομαι και στα 4μέτρα μερικες φορές με το αθλιο free router της forthnet.

Με αυτά τα προγράμματα όμως βρήκα σε ποιο channel πρέπει να εκπεμπει το router για να μην υπαρχει "electrical infetterence", όπως έλεγε και η pasta, με τους γείτονές μου.

I use wiFi Analyzer on Android, and inSSIDer when on my laptop.

EDIT: I gess inSSIDer is paid now, but you can still google "inSSIDer 3.1.2.1" for the older free version.

It could be channel congestion or interference from another device like hands free home phones.

Download WiFi Analyzer on your mobile and see which WiFi channel is clear and set your WiFi router to that channel. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Also some routers allow you to set the output power for the WiFi signal, try adjusting that as well.

The wifi part could definitely contribute to poor performance though. Get yourself a wifi analyzer app and make sure your router isn't on the same channel as a neighbors router and is competing for bandwidth.

I tend to check before every VR session as my neighbors router has a tendency to jump on the same channel as my TPCast and cause problems. I don't see a difference but I feel it to where I've gotten sick and had to stop playing.

You can fix that in the device manager: https://imgur.com/6gXsHPw

Just run NETSH WLAN start hostednetwork again afterwards.

You can use a tool like this to verify that it's only broadcasting at 5GHz.

Set a static wifi channel in your router at home. Use the wifi analyzer app to check which channel will give you a better signal at home

App

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

So I don't know if you know much about the topic, but simply, WiFi can broadcast on different frequencies called channels. Imagine FM radio. Using that app we can find the least polluted one. There's even a view in the app with channel rating.

Then, log in to your router. Instructions will be different depending on your manufacturer. There will be an option in the settings for broadcast channel. Change that from auto to the one you want.

I would recommend wiring your pc. You buy a long cable and tuck it under your carpet or something similar. It sounds like you'll see dramatically better results

I helped a friend debug a similar issue, ran WiFi Analyzer and noticed a ton of congestion with neighbors all at channel 1 of 2.4 GHz. Moved the router to use a much less congested channel and also moved the phone to use the 5GHz band instead. I realize that's not likely an issue for you but the Analyzer app can be useful in debugging.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Install that (if you have Android, look for something similar if you have an apple phone). It will scan for all networks and show you conflicts, changing your WiFi setting to what they recommend should help.

5ghz is generally faster and often has less conflicts due to people all using old 2.4ghz routers. My apartment building has 40 odd 2.4ghz networks but only 6 or 7 5ghz networks

I use this one...
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

OP uses https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

I use https://f-droid.org/app/org.bitbatzen.wlanscanner (Also on Gplay: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.bitbatzen.wlanscanner )

It's not much but I use WiFi Analyzer for Android.

I'm on a Vive but hopefully some of this will be useful to you....

In my opinion the paper instructions weren't very good but connecting the hardware is easy enough as everything has nice labels. A goes to A, B goes to B, etc... The pairing of the transmitter and receiver is probably the most common step people skip by accident.

When you install the software it will ask for the router SSID and password. There may be a sticker on the router with this information but not the one you want to use... You want the information from the sticker on the power box (place where you attach the battery).

Finding the optimal spot to place the video transmitter might not be obvious as putting high and pointing it down. I would spend some time putting it in various places and see what works best. Chances are you'll get a signal just about everywhere so it won't cut out completely. However, you'll notice the image quality suffers in some spots more than others. I was able to find a spot that works very well for my case but it wasn't in the recommended "next to one of the lighthouses" like the instructions recommend.

Get yourself a wifi analyzer and make sure the TPCast router is not fighting for bandwidth with another nearby router. I have a neighbor who's router sometimes uses the same channel as my TPCast and while I don't visually notice any lag I've had a few instances where I felt myself getting sick from it. It was bad enough where I check every time I start a session.

Even if you don't use OpenTPCast you should read their guide on optimizing the router especially the recommendation to run independently from your home router.

I use OpenTPCast but it sounds like the official software supports the mic now. You can find a download link but it hasn't been publicly released yet on their website. I'd ask on the TPCast Discord for the full story though as I've seen conflicting info.

Wifi can be kind of unstable when gaming sometimes, no idea if this is the actual problem you are facing, but it's worth checking out.

Sorry if I explain something you already knew:

Wifi transfers its data through one of 14 channel, slightly different (but overlapping) frequencies to make one wifi signal more distinct than another. If it's been a long time since you rebooted your router, and there are multiple networks nearby, it could be that you are in the same channel as many others around you, which results in loss of data (which causes lag).

If you have an android smartphone, this will be an useful app where you can see what your channel is compared to the other networks in your area. If you see that the 'arc' of your wifi connection overlaps many others, it's best to reboot your router so it can recheck what channel is ideal to use. (most routers have that functionality, if rebooting does nothing you can always manually change settings in the router). There should be alternative apps for iPhone too, just search for wifi analyzer or wifi channels, something like that.

Also worth noting: Is your router near other electrical devices? A microwave, as example, seriously messes up the signal. So if someone in your house was preparing food you'd notice that. In tech support I seriously had a costumer angry that her internet stopped working like clockwork on 6:30 until 6:40pm, turns out her husband was using the microwave to defrost stuff around that time, with the router on the microwave..

Try the 5ghz band and if that doesn't help then set your routers 2.4ghz band to a different channel and see if that helps. I usually use this app to find the least congested channel.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Online game play doesn't need a lot of bandwidth. The issue is going to be the strength and quality of your connections. There's the connection between the Switch and the router\AP and the quality of your internet connection in general (such as the signal strength of your cable signal, if you have cable internet).

You can try some internet tests.

https://www.dslreports.com/tools/pingtest

https://www.megapath.com/speedtestplus/ping-jitter-test/

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

These are just a few options. They'll help focus on where is the issue. If your wifi signal strength isn't great for the switch's location and you can't move it, and you can't run an ethernet cable (which would be best) you could use a powerline adapter. If your internet is the problem, that's a bit harder to nail down. Like if it's cable, is the signal strength in the proper range, are there errors from your provider, is the cable made properly in general, etc.

My 5ghz is set to channel 40 and the 2.4ghz is on channel 7. I used an Android app called "Wifi Analyizer" to find the least congested channels in my apartment complex.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

I'd first suggest trying this (Specifically the do not allow computer to turn off adapter option). If that fails then, I'd suggest using a wireless network diagnostic tool similar to this, to see if there's interference from say your neighbour's wi-fi network. If there is interference, then I'd suggest switching your wi-fi channels to something less utilised in the area. Good Luck!

Are you on Android? Download WiFi Analizer and see what channel you're on relative to all the others.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Whats your budget?

You say it is running slow - but your talking about the WiFi.. Older laptops would be using the 2.4Ghz band and depending on how much WiFi traffic there is all around you that could be why it is running slow.. Any new system you get that is using the 2.4 will have the same speed issues..

So one you have to see if you WiFi Gateway supports the new 5Ghz channels? If NOT get your Internet Provider to change it out.. They have newer ones now that will do both 2.4 and 5 GHz WiFi..

Then you have a few choices.. If your current laptop does not support 5 GHz you could get a USB WiFi adapter that does support the 5GHz band and that should help with the Internet slowness.. Or a New Laptop that supports 5 GHz WiFi..

Other ways to speed up a laptop is to replace the Internal Hard Drive with an SSD and that will make a WORLD of difference in how snappy the laptop responds (If you have a good Internet connection if the Laptop is using 2.4 GHz on a crowded network [ this being ALL the WiFi's in your area like when you see them all in the connection list but they are not yours)..

Here is an article about WiFi and 2.4 GHz / 5 GHz: https://www.howtogeek.com/222249/whats-the-difference-between-2.4-ghz-and-5-ghz-wi-fi-and-which-should-you-use/

My sister has this issue and I upgraded all of their laptops to SSD's (they are very happy with their 5+ year old Laptops) I also had them upgrade to better WiFi USB 5GHz adapters and they say it is like they have whole new computers..

There are other solution.. Like Tiny PC's that you would have in the kitchen like the Intel NUC PC's and others, but they require external Monitors / Keyboards / mouse.. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=nuc

Or All-in-One PC's (This has a PC inside the monitor and an external Keyboard / mouse

https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-all-in-one-computer/

Also another option is a tablet w/ keyboard Like a Microsoft Surface..

It all depends on your budget..

Aslo to see how much WiFi traffic you have in your house get an app for your phone..

For Android (Which I use) I have 3 I like..

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pzolee.wifiinfo

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Using Wifi Analyzer:

• 2.4GHz looks good. Note my Wifi strength shows full in the status bar as well.

• 5GHz is limited with my AP, which is why I don't typically use it. It gets good throughput to the MiBox downstairs, which is physically near the router. But I don't use it for any other devices.

Keep in mind that this is isolated to this specific device. I powered up my oneplus 3T and didn't experience any issues, nor has my wife on her 3T. I'm not having any issues on my laptop currently.

this is what I use to test my signal strength along with the PS4 network status in settings. Need better than 80% signal to stream smoothly. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Only the recent PS4 Slims and Pro's have 5Ghz, though. You can try the 2.4 Ghz but it sucks for me even with a strong signal. Just too spotty to stream well. Granted, it works fine for netflix, so my guess is PS Now uses a lot more data handling than Netflix does.

If anyone else in the house is streaming vids at the same time, it can slow it down too.

My PS4 Slim uses 5Ghz. It's all I use, the 2.4 Ghz won't give me a good enough signal on it. Maybe you can check on your PS4?

5Ghz has a small distance, though, so it's not as wide an area as 2.4 Ghz. My guess is the 5 Ghz signal it too weak to make it down there. Concrete offers a lot of interference to wifi, so it can make a good connection spotty because the signal has to travel through all that rock.

I use this app to test my signals around the house.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Like my garage gets a bad connection and even the front of the house, the back of the house is fine for 5 Ghz. 2.4 Ghz is stronger, but I get about half the throughput on that frequency.

Good luck!

If it is your last resort option, by all means knock yourself out. However, it should be just that, a last resort, for example if your 2.4/5GHz channels are full of interference and you literally can't run an ethernet cable or similar (I know you're in a shared apartment so that's not an option).

I would grab a second hand 802.11n Ubiquiti UniFi - they are about $40 these days if you shop around, complete with passive PoE adapter, amazing wireless access points and you get far, far more than what you pay for. For half that you can get an Airrouter(HP) from the same company; which are decent in their own right but not quite to the standard of the former. Do your homework first, though, they're enterprise-grade kit and it shows.

If you have an Android smartphone, give this a try, as I suspect your router might be set to a congested channel. If your router and clients support channel hopping, turn it on (since it will automatically switch to the least congested channel as and when needed).

You have to be also mindful of the fact that power line Ethernet essentially turns your mains wiring into a sizeable antenna and it will knock out RF from DC-300MHz in every direction for as much as several miles in the worst cases. That covers shortwave, FM radio, amateur, airband, DAB and radar; and can cause all kinds of issues. Also, the moment a large inductive load appears on the same main (washing machine, vacuum cleaner, power tools, etc.) your throughput speed is going to drop through the floor. Hence why it's a "last resort nuclear option".

Do you have an android phone? Download the Wifi Analyzer (its also in the windows 10 store i beloeve)to see what wifi channel your router is on. For 2.4ghz put it it on either 1, 6 or 11, ( the 3 non-overlapping channels)which ever has the least number of clients.

Is your router using 2.4 or 5ghz wifi? 5ghz will give you more speed but less range, and it also has a lot less interference with other wifi channels and things like microwaves. usually 2.4 is super crowded in apartments because most isp routers still use 2.4

You could get something like a Ubiquiti Unifi Access Point. It should give you much better range and then your router. I use this in my apartment and get close to my wired 100mbps speed on wifi using 5ghz.

I've attached a Picture.

It's a TP-Link TL-WR802N Powered by a Anker PowerCore 16000. Draws about 0.17A/170mA. It's setup as an Access Point but nothing ever connects to it.

On the Phone/Receiving side I run Wifi Analyzer by farproc.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

In Signal Meter mode you want to prefind your access point, as long as you don't change it when it is out of range, it'll stay and as it comes into range, it'll start beeping and showing it's signal level.

My Setup: http://www.nightengineer.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/IMG_20170516_015343-768x576.jpg

EDIT: Sorry for the long long wait for a reply.

I hate routers that come from any ISP. They all suck for wireless and I get something beefy to do the work in my home.

That said, see if you can change the channel that's being broadcasted. If you're on android, there's a handy app you can get so you can see how congested the signals are.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Last, I find that if you separate the names of your 2.4 and 5.0 channels it's easier to see if one is buggering up.

Särskilt 2.4GHz-nätet är ofta överfullt och näten stör varandra. En hel del andra trådlösa prylar ligger ofta i närheten frekvensmässigt och kan även de störa.
Som /u/sdrmlm skrev så är de optimalaste kanalerna att använda 1, 6 samt 11 pga hur den trådlösa tekniken fungerar då kanalerna även överlappar varandra. Just de tre har inga överlappningar, men då bör man kontrollera hur det verkar med alla grannar om man bor i flerbostadshus.
Wifi Analyzer till android är imo en bra app att kolla hur det ser ut med trådlösa nät och välja den kanal som ser ut att erbjuda minst störning i form av andra nätverk som ligger nära, eller om kanalen är knökfull av andra nät.

5GHz-nätet är oftast bättre, men det är inte alla enheter som har stöd för det.

Men just i flerbostadshus så kan trådlösa nätverk vara ett rent helvete.

I'd say faraday cage your room but you're probably using wi-fi on the PS4.

You could try changing the channel your router is connecting to. Bluetooth also uses 2.4ghz so change your wi-fi to something less crowded. This app will show you what channels are running in the area so you can remove your router from that. This article may help too

Download wi-fi analyser or something like it. Check how messy your area is for wifi signals. Idealy for 2.4ghz, you want /everyone/ in your area using channels 1, 6 and 11 and nothing else (Using any other channel introduces interference). Likely though, people will be all over the place; so try and find the least congested channel and tell your modem to use that one manually in its settings.

I recommend this if you have android. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Do you have an android phone or tablet? if so download this:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_GB

Check for other signals that are overlapping with yours, find a clear channel and change your router to use this for wireless, this will fix a lot of interference based issues.

What model is your router? it may just be a little old at this stage and a new one may be what is required

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Download to figure out where the signal is strongest.

You may be able to get your own "router" there and sending the signal to computers via Ethernet.

Besides changing the frequency using page 24 of the manual, you could also change the channel that your wireless router operates on to potentially avoid whatever channel the Sound Bar is using.
First, use something like wifi analyzer for android to find out what channels (you basically only have 1, 6, and 11 on 2.4Ghz) are too crowded.
Then, move your router's wireless (or WAP or whatever serves up wireless in your dwelling) to the least-congested channel where the router sits.
If this still does not alleviate the issue, you will either need to return the sound bar for something that doesn't rely on the 2.4Ghz band....or go get a router that can do 5Ghz (though this is really just a workaround).

Either way though, at least with Wifi Analyzer you will be able to see what the spectrum looks like in your house.

Sound Bar manual
https://docs.sony.com/release//Manual_4688010131.pdf

Wifi Analyzer (android)
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

For iOS - Similar to Wifi Analyzer (iPhones)
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/network-analyzer-lite-wifi-info-scanner-ping/id562315041?mt=8

Netstumbler (Windows)
http://www.netstumbler.com/downloads/

Or just get an app for your phone that maps channel and signal strength and walk around with that. Much more accurate, and you can find a less crowded channel to set up your system with.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Move your router out of the box, that's whats next.

I'm half joking based on my assumed density of the stuff in the cubbies to the left and right of the router. Wifi Analyzer has helped me in get the best coverage in two houses now.

I had meant to experiment with moving my router to what seemed to be a better location and waited 3 years to finally do it. Big mistake! In the new location I now have solid 5Ghz coverage throughout the house instead of hit or miss coverage at the periphery.

Has anybody knocked that vase off the right speaker while trying to turn on/off the lights? ;) Good call on those bottle caps by the way.

On topic part of the post - Do you wish you had room corners to load the bass?

The download speed just shows you how many bits got through successfully per second. There could have been some bits that didn't make it through and were resent. That's ok for downloading a file or streaming a movie, but not so good for low latency data. Each resend adds latency since the data has to be determined to have been lost and then resent, effectively more than doubling the time to send that piece of data.

Since there's only two or three other networks nearby you might be able to find an open channel. If you have an Android device, Wifi Analyzer is a good app for determining what Wifi is around you. See what channels your neighbors are using and try to have your network on a channel that doesn't overlap.

For starters, look for other wifi signals on the same channel(s). I like the farproc Wifi Analyzer, though there are many other similar apps.

Take a look at variance in signal strength around your house. Does is correspond to poor cell data rates?

Kitchens have a lot of things like refrigerators and microwave ovens. Try to move away from those.

How is your connection when outside? Network Cell Info can help find towers.

5 people isn't too bad, there are 14 channels. It's common for routers to switch channels to the least busy automatically nowadays and with 5 people it probably finds some decent space.

Wifi Analyzer is the app I use at work to verify I've set up buildings correctly.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

try something like this and see if you notice any trends in your wifi signals, might give you some ideas of what is happening.

Depends what channels you are using and a billion other factors, as usual.

I'm in New Zealand so I'm basing this on the permitted channels here, it does differ significantly between countries (this table on Wikipedia) covers it, but it's a heck of a thing to understand.

In short though, there are several sub-bands that make up "5GHz".

• 5.2GHz - channels 36-64
• 5.3GHz - channels 100-144
• 5.8GHz - channels 149-161

Within each band these may be further subject to transmit power limits, indoor or outdoor limits (some may be indoor only), bandwidth limits (ie, whether you can use 20, 40 or 80MHz wide channels), and DFS ("Radar avoidance"), the so called "Regulatory information".

DFS means the access point is required to change channels if it detects interference, which can be less ideal for performance. Wider channels are faster but more subject to performance, and generally reduce range.

A lot of devices have trouble with the middle 5.3 band, so it's best avoided completely if you don't have all modern devices. The 5.2 and 5.8 are generally good for most things.

As an example, here's the NZ regulatory information from my laptop (this on Linux, so it's easy to see the results)

$ iw reg get

phy#0 (self-managed) country NZ: DFS-UNSET (2402 - 2482 @ 40), (6, 22), (N/A), AUTO-BW, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-80MHZ, NO-160MHZ (5170 - 5250 @ 80), (6, 22), (N/A), NO-OUTDOOR, AUTO-BW, IR-CONCURRENT, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-160MHZ, PASSIVE-SCAN (5250 - 5330 @ 80), (6, 22), (0 ms), DFS, AUTO-BW, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-160MHZ, PASSIVE-SCAN (5490 - 5730 @ 80), (6, 22), (0 ms), DFS, AUTO-BW, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-160MHZ, PASSIVE-SCAN (5735 - 5815 @ 80), (6, 22), (N/A), AUTO-BW, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-160MHZ (5815 - 5835 @ 20), (6, 22), (N/A), AUTO-BW, IR-CONCURRENT, NO-HT40MINUS, NO-HT40PLUS, NO-80MHZ, NO-160MHZ, PASSIVE-SCAN

So for 2.4GHz I can use 40MHz wide channels 1-13 (2402-2482). For 5GHz the important ones are I can use 36-48 (5170-5250) indoor only with 20/40/80MHz, 52-64 (5250-5330) indoor or outdoor with DFS, and 149-161 (5735 - 5815) largely unrestricted, with 22dBm (150mW) transmit power across the board. Some countries will limit that (I've seen restrictions on use of 80MHz channels, 20dBm limit, and others).

Interference comes in various forms. 2.4GHz is just a hotbed of wideband video transmitters, microwave ovens and other devices which generally ruin the experience. 5GHz you might have cordless phones and other things to deal with but with the overall lower range once walls and other things are concerned it's less likely to be a problem.

If you have to share channels with your neighbours, being on the same channel is strangely better than overlapping, hence the "1-6-11" rule for 2.4GHz for most countries (12 and 13 aren't supported in the USA, so a lot of equipment doesn't support them at all). 5GHz as you say there's plenty of bandwidth (enough for two 80MHz channels at 5.2 and one at 5.8) and unlike 2.4GHz the channels don't overlap so there are more to go around.

If I had to give general advice without knowing your environment, a 40MHz 5.2GHz channel without DFS is probably the best for speed/range/compatibility, followed by 40/5.8, then 80MHz (faster, but less range). I'm exceptionally lucky where I live that the neighbours are fairly silent and I can occupy as much airtime as I like.

If you're an Android user, feel free to post screenshots from something like WiFi Analyzer.

found it thanks!

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

> the ones on WiFi have a time of 30ms-4000ms and frequent timeouts.

Your wifi is clearly the problem, then, because that's ridiculously terrible. Have you ever tried adjusting your wifi channel settings?

Check if whatever wifi access point you're using has an RF environment analysis tool, or just use something like WiFi Anaylzer to see how busy the wifi environment is where you are. It sounds like you're using a channel that's already heavily utilized by your friends and neighbors. Here's how to fix it.

If the AP is reasonably close (i.e., a room or two) to your second desktop and your laptop, you may have better luck just killing 2.4Ghz and using only 5GHz channels. Range and penetration is far less at 5GHz, so neighbors' 5GHz wifi won't affect you nearly as much. (The downside is that 5GHz wifi might not be enough to spread through your whole home/apartment from just a single AP, because it gets attenuated by interior walls a lot more than does 2.4GHz.)

Note that if you're in a really crowded & saturated area, you may just be fucked. At that point, you'll either have to go all powerline ethernet or just get a 30 meter network cable and drag it around with you.

Check the data usage policy with your hotel, they might only allocate you a capped amount of data. Also, ask about their data speed. This is tricky because most speed tests only test a local server and you might be wanting to connect to a faraway server. If you are there, I have heard that fast.com uses the same paths as Netflix so you will get a good indicator of quality.

You can always ask the staff bluntly about running Netflix over their wifi.

Also keep in mind that if you are going to a different country you might get blocked by Netflix or if Netflix is available in that country, you might get that country's collection. This is because many of the content owners have existing deals/licenses in different countries, or Netflix is not big enough in that country to outbid a local cable/satellite provider. A workaround is using a VPN service like Tunnelbear, however, it might be illegal in that country.

Another thing is the quality of the hotel's wifi infrastructure, Wifi is quite capable for almost ten years now to run 4k Netflix theoretically (150Mbps+), however, the number of people connected to a single point is what determines the quality of your slice. The more people, the slower and worse it gets. Also, how many things are in the way of the signal.

There are very good mobile apps out there that can measure Wifi strength. I use these two (Android):

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pzolee.wifiinfo

Figured I revisit this since I read something the other day that may help you.

The controller works on the 2.4ghz wireless spectrum as do most wireless devices in your house, but most aren't strong enough to interfere with it besides the most powerful one, your router.

You can log into your routers interface and change the channel the router operates on to something 5 channnels higher, or lower depending on what its set at.

Alternatively you can find a Wifi channel scanner app for your smart phone that will tell you what channels are the most crowded and help you pick the best one for your router.

> Use a wifi heatmapper to find the free-est possible band,

If you have something android available, I recommend this wifi scanner: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

It will show you essentially a spectrum analyser type display so you can identify the least interfered with channel to use.

Baixa o Wifi Analyzer

If possible, try using a wifi analayzer tool like this guy and move your router to a less congested frequency.

That's likely not the whole problem, but it could potentially help

Try the android app WiFi Analyzer. This will show you where the most noise is, and what channels are the most heavily populated. Using that info you can pick a good spot for your router as well as change which channels you use. Some ISP-provided or especially bullshit routers might not have that functionality though.

If you have an Android phone you could see if there is a Wi-Fi dead spot or if switching channels on your router could help. I really love this app.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Do a site survey around your home to see which wireless channels are the least crowded. Crowded wireless channels will definitely slow you down. If you have an Android phone, you can use WifiAnalyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer Or if you have a Mac, open up Wireless Diagnostics > Window > Scan.

Here's a good article about wi-fi problems in general. TL;DR: All wifi access point on a channel take turns, so if you're in a crowded area, everybody's wifi slows down.

https://arstechnica.com/information-technology/2017/03/802-eleventy-what-a-deep-dive-into-why-wi-fi-kind-of-sucks/

Well there is no official Windows 10 support for your wireless adapter - http://www.tp-link.com/us/download/TL-WDN4800.html#Utility

Might be worthwhile to invest in a new wireless adapter. Especially if you can get wireless signal in that location (and even further) reliably on another device (use your phone since you probably don't have high tech equipment).

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

esta fue la que use yo.

tene en cuenta que es solo para ver en que canales están las redes que están cerca tuyo, para cambiar tu red tenes que entrar a la config del router

Sounds like something's up to be sure!

The biggest concern here is the wired speed.

It probably won't hurt to hard reset the router. Unscrew the coax connection from the back (and/or the Ethernet cable from the white/beige uplink port) and press and hold the reset button in with a pen for 30 seconds and let go.

Test again. If its still too slow, bypass the router if you're connected to the ONT via ethernet (that beige port from earlier) if not you'll want to call in and probably do a manual ONT reboot.

You can do this yourself by removing the power from the ONT, removing the battery, letting it sit for a minute, plugging it back into power, and then finally the battery.

If that still doesn't work of course a technican probably needs to come out. Make sure to schedule for a time that works for you. It may take a day or two extra but you'll be home. Be sure to give them your cellphone number and email address so that you can be reached more easily.

1-888-620-3663.

For wifi you really should choose channel 1, 6, or 11.

You can download a free app on android called wifi analyser:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Pick the least crowded channel and you're good.

If that still doesn't work, the google onhub is awesome.

https://on.google.com/hub/

You can find them cheaper online, but if you get it from Frontier, in addition to the 2 year factory warranty, you can split the cost over 3 months and you get lifetime support.

If you have an andoid the app called "Wifi Analyzer" will work..

for windows there is "WifiInfoView" for a quick free no frillz option

A few things:

Are you sure it's the wifi? I've had similar issues which were the result of the modem (solution: buy new modem), the wiring in the building, or the ISP. To check, have a wired PC handy while gaming. Load up a streaming video (or simply run ping -t google.com at a command prompt). When you notice the lag in the game, does the wired PC also lose connectivity? If the wired PC struggles, it's not your wifi.

Are you using an all-in-one wifi/router/modem? If so, it's possible an issue with the router or modem is causing the wifi to drop out. Buy or borrow a standalone access point and set up a separate network. If the problems go away, you have your answer.

Have you checked for interference? Saturation of the 2.4GHz is a major problem if you live in a particularly dense area. Get a wifi scanner app for your phone (I use this one but there are plenty to choose from) or inSSIDer for PC/Mac. Are there any networks overlapping yours? If so, can you change wifi channels? (Important: for 2.4GHz wifi you should only ever use channels 1, 6 or 11. It's better to have multiple networks overlapping on the same channel than to have them on adjacent channels!) Can you switch to a 5GHz channel (your older devices may not support it, and range tends to be weaker on 5GHz than on 2.4GHz). If there are many networks and they are all overlapping everywhere, you might be stuck. Unless you want to go door to door and ask your neighbors to move their wifi to a different channel :)

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=pl
If you have an Android device.

Might be caused by jitter, There are several ways this can be caused. you can reduce it somewhat by making sure you wifi adapter isn't scanning for more networks when you're connected. You can do this by checking the advanced properties op the wifi adapter. If your wifi adapter doesn't show this option, you can try using this wlan optimizer tool Also make sure you're using a free channel for your wifi, you can easily check with your phone using an app like wifi analyzer to check what channel has the best reception near your pc and setting your wifi router manually to use that channel.

If that all fails, you can always fall back on plain old ethernet, still the most reliable option.

If the stick connects again after restart, I think it's a router issue.

If you have an Android use this and walk around your place to discover open channels:

.https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

I use ch. 1 & 40 but it all depends on your area

Ah, so it is. This should be a direct link.

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> # Cuatro soluciones para mejorar la conexión Wi-Fi de tu casa > >
>
> Pasan los años y la señal de la Wi-Fi sigue flaqueando en tu hogar. No llega a determinadas habitaciones o el ancho de banda no se relaciona con lo contratado. No te alarmes antes de tiempo, la distribución de tu casa, el grosor de las paredes, la saturación de dispositivos o dónde elijas poner el router pueden ser algunas de las causas. > > A continuación te dejamos cuatro consejos sencillos para mejorar la recepción de la señal Wi-Fi en tu hogar. Eso sí, antes de poner manos a la obra probá apagar varios de los dispositivos conectados. Si la conexión mejora, ya sabes cuál es el causante. > > Mirá también## Aseguran que Marissa Mayer dejará Yahoo y recibirá una indemnización millonaria Cambiar el router de lugar > > Aunque no lo creas, una pequeña modificación en la posición del router pueden traducirse en ganancias de señal extraordinarias. Las redes electromagnéticas funcionan mejor cuántos menos obstáculos físicos haya entre emisor y receptor. Si podés hacer que entre el router y tu smartphone o computadora haya dos paredes en vez de tres, mejor. > > Para probar la eficiencia, puedes instalar aplicaciones que miden la intensidad de tu red Wi-Fi en tu smartphone. Aquí una para Android y otra para iPhone. Todo es cuestión de ensayo y error. Mové el router y acto seguido comprobá la señal recibida en el punto de la casa donde solía fallar la conexión. > > Mirá también## Viajar a Miami y traer un iPhone es más barato que comprarlo en Argentina Cambiar protocolos y canales > > Las redes Wi-Fi emiten en diferentes protocolos de ancho de banda, de preferencia de datos, y varias frecuencias. Si vivís en un edificio es común que haya decenas de redes simultáneas. Los aparatos modernos (routers y computadoras) vienen equipados con componentes que saben discriminar mejor unos de otros. > > Cambiar el canal de tu router en realidad no hace mucho, es un cambio mínimo en la frecuencia de la señal. Si soporta conexiones a 5 Ghz, prueba a activar esta señal. Es posible que mejore la recepción en una casa pequeña, pero señales al tener una frecuencia más corta que 2.4 Ghz, atravesará peor las paredes. Muchos router soportan emitir ambas señales a la vez, probá cuál se adapta mejor a tu hogar. > > Colocar repetidores de señal > > Si tu casa tiene una arquitectura complicada llena de armarios empotrados, paredes gruesas, muchas esquinas o no podés cambiar el router de posición, tu mejor opción puede pasar por crear un repetidor de señal. > > Son pequeños —y baratos— aparatos que hacen lo que su nombre indica: una antena que captura la emisión de tu router, le añade potencia y la replica con otra antena desde donde lo enchufes, recortando la distancia. No son complicados de instalar si seguís las instrucciones. > > También existen lo denominados repetidores PLC. La única diferencia es que en vez de repetir la señal desde el router lo hacen entre dos aparatos independientes que se comunican a través de la instalación eléctrica de la casa. Puedes poner uno “base” enchufado a la pared donde tu router, y el resto enchufados en otras habitaciones. > > Routers inalámbricos, una solución más. (Foto: Simon Chavez/dpa) > > > > Comprar un router más potente > > Los router que nos entregan las operadoras de Internet son, de media, regulares a nivel técnico. Por poco dinero podés comprar uno extra con multitud de antenas y mejoras tecnológicas con el que llenar de señal de Wi-Fi más potente tu hogar. > > El funcionamiento es sencillo. Apagas la señal Wi-Fi del router de tu proveedor y lo conectas al nuevo y potente por cable Ethernet, el que parece un cable de teléfono con la ficha más grande. Entonces, tu nuevo router recibirá la señal directamente por el cable sin pérdidas y creará una red Wi-Fi mucho más estable. > > Los router modernos pueden servir múltiples conexiones a varios dispositivos a la vez, solucionando la saturación. Además tienen más ancho de banda, conectan más rápido, y saben discernir bien entre tus aparatos y los del vecino, por ejemplo. Por último, incorporan mejoras de seguridad más modernas y te permitirán acceder a Internet con mayor tranquilidad. > > No hace falta que la conexión de tu casa vaya mal para pensar en adquirir un nuevo router que haga de intermediario, también pueden mejorar las conexiones en hogares donde la señal solo recaiga en ocasiones. > > (Fuente: La Vanguardia)

empleadoEstatalBot, por la vuelta de Perón en forma de fichas.

[Autor](/u/subtepass) | Código fuente

Signal interference impacts a WiFi signal in ways a hardline doesn't worry about ever. Walls, people, anything in between a router and the device can impact the quality of the signal, which can lead to lower speeds and dropped packets in extreme cases. You can minimize this (but not eliminate) by removing obstacles and distance between the router and the device you want the best signal in.

Other routers and signals in the area can affect yours negatively if they run on or near the same channel (this is why a microwave can fuck up a 2.4GHz router if it's nearby). Download a WiFi Analyzer app on your phone and sit near your router and do a scan for all networks, then find channels that are unused/underused and set your WiFi to use that particular channel. Less overlap means less clutter, which means a better quality signal.

Lastly, set your expectations. WiFi is never better than a hardline Eithernet cable. I had a desktop who's motherboard went slowly and lost my ethernet ports. I relocated my router beside my damned computer and I still had a worse connection than ethernet.

EDIT: Derp, I misread. The info above is for if you're using WiFi instead of Ethernet. A USB 4G dongle is a completely different ball game.

Antes que nada, te fijaste si no estás en el mismo canal que tus vecinos?

Bajate el Wifi Analyzer en android y fijate si tu señal no está tapada las otras.

En caso afirmativo habría que cambiar de canal desde la configuración del modem-wifi.

That's wireless interference. You're either on an overcrowded wireless channel (check your router settings, or use this app) or have a bad position for your router (near anything high-voltage or signal-reflective, in a metal cabinet, etc) causing those massive spikes in ping/crazy packet loss.

What kind of connection are you getting on the hosted network? May want to check with an android app like wifi analyzer. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Just make sure it's actually 5ghz that your connected to and it's on an uncontested channel.

EDIT - Another good idea to make sure is to check on the phone to see if the packets are lost during network transmission, or at the encoder/decoder.

yup

I live in an apartment building that's really saturated with wifi connections.

Every few months i run wifi analyzer:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

to get a look at what channels have the least amount of crosstalk and I set my router accordingly.

If you have an android, you can use wifi analyzer, which will give you a rough estimate on how strong the signal is. You can use that to get some hints as to where you need to look.

As for more exact, directional info... you'd need expensive equipment for that, but if you have a decent budget then yeah, that's totally possible.

Install this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en and look at what other networks are using your wifi channel. Even the wifi direct networks (they say Direct-android-xx or similar) will cause interference. My amazon fire stick was creating a network on the same 5ghz channel that it was connected to my router on. Cause shitty lag. Dumped the fire stick on 2.4 ghz and the wifi direct channel followed it. Now My 5ghz network is clean and fast.

Hi! Welcome to /r/AndroidHelp.

We are sorry you're going through this, but I'm hoping we can shed some light into your questions!

• How the hell is this legal? Is this even legal?

I would call this a legal gray area. Wifi hotspots aren't illegal. It's the user's choice to connect to it. Hate speech however is a crime, if a Wifi's name has hateful speech it can be a crime.

Bluetooth pushing is where it gets tricky. Pushing files to phones that can be found through bluetooth isn't illegal per se AFAIK. /r/legalhelp would probably know better. You must tell your users to make sure their devices aren't visible when bluetooth is on. That's how this device pushes files. And even still, one would have to pair / agree to said files before a push is complete.

• Does this channel go both ways? Can they just upload stuff to our phones, or can they download stuff from our phones as well? I'm assuming if there is another device or "hack" they can use with the LightStream, they're probably doing it. These guys are ruthless and don't care about legality. Basically, what's the worst case scenario here?

This channel does not go both ways. Just upload stuff to your phones. However, what they upload might exploit your phones... So be careful with the files you download from these people. I'd say the worst case scenario is someone accepts these files, runs them, and their devices get hacked. But that comes down to user interaction.

• Does anyone have an idea of what kind of range these devices have? Are residences near the center at risk?

The specs page doesn't specify the hardware underneath, but, depending on where this device is, here's how far a bluetooth signal can go (See figure 1) and here's how far a Wifi signal can go. Depending on this device's positioning, residences MAY be in risk.

• Is there an app or something we can do on our phones that can block this but still allow us to use bluetooth?

As stated above, making your phones NOT visible via bluetooth is enough to ignore this device. Wi-Fi attacks only work if you try and connect to its Access point.

• Is there some kind of device we can buy that acts as a "jammer" to their device, or are we just screwed here for the time being?

There are ways to Jam their device, but AFAIK those are illegal in some countries like Canada, your state might have different laws.

• Anything else I can do about this?

AFAIK because this device is being used for harassment, talking to the police would be a definite good start. You can use apps like Wifi Analyzer to find the device, that would definitely be a good start. But definitely get the police involved, harassment is taken seriously in the states.

I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions!

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Hello,

&nbsp;

Thank you very much much for that post, it helped me a lot to set this up in my home. I use 2 TL-WR841ND V11 with custom firmware. I have tested this setup using this app:

&nbsp;

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

&nbsp;

It shows me both of my APs SSID,MAC, channel,etc and information about encryption (WAP-PSK+FT/PSK-CCMP-preauth)[ESS] (all my phones did not show +FT anywhere). I have set refresh time to 1s and moved between floors, roam is very fast, as soon my crappy phone wifi sens stronger signal of upstairs AP, it switches to it without any interference (tested SSH and skype call). Here is my full config, I have added few option to speed up switching for dumber devices:

&nbsp;

config wifi-iface
option device 'radio0'
option mode 'ap'
option ssid 'My wifi'
option key 'check_out_AVE_new_video_:)'
option network 'lan'
option encryption 'psk2+ccmp'
option rsn_preauth "1"
option ieee80211r "1"
option mobility_domain "e612"
option pmk_r1_push "1"
option nasid "98DED0AA2282"
option r1_key_holder "98DED0AA2282"
option disassoc_low_ack='1'
# Skip max_inactivity if needed
option skip_inactivity_poll '1'
# Max inactivity time of client, if it dose not respond it's disconnected (default it 300)
option max_inactivity '10'
list r0kh "98:DE:D0:AA:22:82,98DED0AA2282,8a7fcc966ed0691ff2809e1f38c16996"
list r0kh "98:DE:D0:AA:22:BE,98DED0AA22BE,8a7fcc966ed0691ff2809e1f38c16996"
list r1kh "98:DE:D0:AA:22:82,98:DE:D0:AA:22:82,8a7fcc966ed0691ff2809e1f38c16996"
list r1kh "98:DE:D0:AA:22:BE,98:DE:D0:AA:22:BE,8a7fcc966ed0691ff2809e1f38c16996"

Does your router support 5GHz? If not, and if you have neighbors, then the 2.4GHz frequency in your area is probably pretty congested which would cause such issues. You can test this with a free wifi-analyzer app (windows, android).

It's possible that all the tech does when he comes out is changes the channel on your router to a less-congested one. But over time, other peoples' routers will also switch channel (especially when they're set to the evil 'auto channel' option) and the congestion will return.

Just a theory, but go see if your devices are connecting via 2.4GHz and if so, how congested your router's channel is.

Do you have a phone that you can download and install Wifi Analyzer on?

If so grab it and use it to see if that machine is in a position that may be out of range to pick up the Wifi that you want to connect to.

Maybe use this application in your phone.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Or equivalent apps in your phone (if it's iOS). Scan near your computer so you can see what cause the interference. Find a non-crowded channel, and set your wifi channel to that channel.

I use this one on Android. It's pretty good for down and dirty. There are others when you need to really dig.

On a related note, Wifi Analyzer is an app for Android mobile devices that will let you quickly see what channels are being used near you and their signal strengths.

Ahh, my mistake. I thought I saw "I plan on getting a couple more". In terms of the default CenturyLink modem/router combo it doesn't handle a lot of device very well. This at least was my experience when I have CenturyLink about three years ago. The channel could be the issue. Channel 5 is overlapped by other channels.

You can try downloading an app that scans the Wi-Fi usage around you and tells you the best option. On Android I use the one linked below. This particular app with have a rating for each channel.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Is there anyway you can login to your access point and try changing the channel? Sometimes WiFi issues can be caused by interference from other access points. You can use this to look at the WiFi spectrum of your area and find the least occupied channel.

Also, I suggest you try a custom ROM like CyanogenMod. Would you like to try it out? And if you do, do you have any warranty (you would like to keep) and what is the model number on the sticker behind the battery?

Try a different WiFi channel. I like this app

Yes that is ideal.

The drops may be from interference.

Use this android app to see if the channel your router is using too crowded, normally the router chooses a less crowded one but itdoesn't work always.
Changing channels is very easy and it should be in the settings right below where you set the WiFi name.

A decent Wi-Fi connection will feel no different from wired, but it's very possible that you have interference. There are phone apps you can use to see how many networks are on a given channel, generally you want as few as possible. Also, make sure you're connecting to the 5ghz network if you have one.

I don't think that the antenna orientation makes much difference, but I leave them straigh up, it's more important that you don't block the router, don't put big objects in front of it, specially if they are made of metal.

If you have an Android smartphone there's an app that shows the signal strength in decibels, is very useful to find dead spots in the house, it also helps finding out what are the best channels. Just fire up the app and walk around the house.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

^This. Also, you may have channel interference on your WiFi. I've seen this caused by other routers (neighbours etc), garage door remotes and notably, 5 years a go, a wireless doorbell my parents had where my mother just unplugged the receiver because it was going off all the time. WiFi was terrible for three weeks before we realised that the cause was the button sending a constant signal.

&nbsp;

You can use this app to check the channel interference.

You certain you aren't on a busy channel? If you have an android device check out WiFi Analyzer.

I had a similar issue when I moved a year ago, I used an app like this to pick the least congested wifi channel and it improved.

http://surfboard.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/ARRIS_SURFboard_SBG6580_User_Guide.pdf

Check what channel your wifi is broadcasting on. If you live in close quarters with your neighbors there may be congestion on the channel.

You can also check with https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en (Not sure if it's available from Apple app store)

Okay, in that case the Toshiba doesn't have a 5GHz radio. You could try switching to a 2.4 GHz channel that's not as crowded and see how that works (if you have Android you can use Wifi Analyzer to see which channels are crowded) or you can get an 802.11 AC dongle for it.

In dense urban areas, you definitely want to avoid 2.4 GHz. Even in some suburban areas speed can be affected by interference, as there's realistically only 3 channels to use on the 802.11 2.4 GHz band. If possible, you should use Ethernet to connect your devices, else, you should use 5 GHz.

No, your speed is not split. Either band can run at full speed if both are enabled but the other is not used. However, this is practically not possible on your 2.4 GHz band due to interference.

It depends on the device's wireless chip. I have a laptop from 2007 that connects to 5 GHz, but I also have newer devices that can't. You can purchase a USB 5 GHz WiFi adapter if you want, but I recommend trying to use Ethernet if possible.

Pro tip: Got an Android phone? The WiFi Analyzer app is great for checking for wireless interference.

Another pro tip: Use https://speedof.me for speed tests.

On my limited knowledge and experiments (and others should correct me if I make a false statement):

• Yes indeed you should get a better connection if you only have one device connected on you 2.4GHz channel. There'll be less contention.
• The 5Ghz band is designed to be wider. In principle it will accommodate more simultaneous connections, and be less conflicted with other routers in your apartment complex.
• But 2.4GHz travels further and penetrates walls better. You use that knowledge to your advantage.
• I've found the 5Ghz connection drains my Galaxy S5 battery significantly faster than 2.4Ghz. I don't yet know if that is particular to that phone or represents a general phenomenon.
• Some routers, like my ASUS RT-AC87U, have Quality of Service settings. These let you prioritize traffic, e.g. Gaming over video. I don't know of Airport Extreme has this.
• You can also set up your router, and this would be especially relevant for 2.4Ghz channels, on particular channel bands that don't conflict with the rest of your apartment complex.
• To determine a spare, or less crowded frequency, use a Wifi analyser. In the Android world I use Wifi analyser which produced a graph of surrounding channels in use. I imagine there's an equivalent IOS app.

you can see what channels are crowded or not crowded in your area with it. im guessing this is the app /u/FragmentedChicken means https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

the app wont touch your router configuration. i assume thats what you need your laptop for?

Typically http://192.168.0.1 or http://192.168.1.1

You'll probably need to google your router's default admin username and password.

From there it varies depending on your router. If using 802.11g you will want to use either channel 1, 6, or 11 (to reduce channel over lap). You can use an app on your phone like Wifi Analyzer to see how many devices are using each of the channels. You want to use whichever channel has the least congestion.

You only need to make this change on your router; all your devices that connect to the router will recognize the change and deal with it on their own without any additional changes.

If your WiFi is slow with neighbors moving in, you may be using the same channel as them.

In the US, 2.4GHz WiFi uses channels 1-12. The most common default channel (that I've seen) across router devices is 6. You can download a WiFi spectrum analyzer (like this one for Android) and see where yours stands relative to your neighbors. Pick a channel that no one else around you is using. 5GHz has a lot more channels (as it operates using spread/broad spectrum, and I don't have those memorized). The app I linked will show you those as well.

Not knowing your technical prowess, to change the channel, you'll have to log into the built-in web page of your WiFi router. Depending on the manufacturer, they'll have different default admin accounts (although "admin" with the password "admin" is pretty common--which you'll want to change for security). Somewhere on one of the pages, you'll find your WiFi settings, and you can choose what channel it uses. Don't mess with the Tx/Rx strengths or the other settings. If your router supports it, some have a check box for "auto" channel. This will let the router scan the airwaves around you, and pick the least noisy channel automatically.

Stupid technical tip: I prefer to use lower channels because they will permeate physical barriers just slightly better than higher frequencies. In the real world, this probably doesn't make a noticeable difference, but I can hope.

>wireless channels and extender channels for my router for 2.4 and 5.0 versions

Different. Download an app like Wifi Analyzer on your phone (Should be a similar option for iPhones, Network Analyzer lite maybe?) and use the Wireless Channels graph (Shown in the screenshots on that Google Play page). There should be 1-14, and generally the lower numbered channels are pretty saturated. Your router MIGHT not be able to select a specific channel, but most can.

Throughout all this, have you changed your WiFi passwords at all? Might be worth a shot. Even if you don't think someone else is using your connection, it's always possible they got your password one way or another. The fact that most of your "fixes" work for a few hours then suddenly stop kind of indicates that there's something else on the network that's maybe not "kicking back on" right away, but once it does, it brings the ping up with it.

Might also be worth talking to your folks and seeing if tackling the wired option together is possible. Ethernet ports are things buyers of houses are looking out for nowadays, so most homeowners shouldn't be too unhappy about installing a few. Running cables through walls is actually a lot easier than you'd expect, too.

Download a wifi analyzer app on your phone and check the signal around your place. Could be neighbouring signals interfering and may only necessitate a channel change on your router. Check both the 2.4 and 5Ghz bands.

Edit: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

/u/washu_k might have the right idea. Get a good idea of what is in those walls.

Then again there are two other things I am not seeing addressed.

1) Frequency: Are you connecting at 2.4Ghz or 5 Ghz? (on most APs you can name the SSIDs on each set of frequencies). 5Ghz has a really good speed, and is the frequency used for 802.11AC. Unfortunately it has terrible ~~distance~~ wall penetration, so pretty much your living room would get the signal, maybe your kitchen.

However your router is a dual band router and should offer somewhere around 120-150Mbs in 802.11N. That should still be pretty strong in that kitchen, unless the walls are made of lead.

2) Signal Strength settings in the router. Linksys doesn't always push the highest signal strength (and honestly you don't always need it). But if the setting is there you could tweak it to be a little higher/louder.

If you have android, you can get WifiAnalyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en) . The signal strength page would give you a good indication about how strong the signal is. In the upper ~~right~~ Left corner of the signal strength page is a box with what range of frequencies it is looking at currently. Tap the box to check the other range (assuming your phone supports it).

Let me know how you fare.

Edit: I said distance was a factor on 5ghz which is not entirely accurate. The issue is that it is terrible at penetrating walls. If that wall is just wood and sheet rock he should be ok, but if there is metal, it could be an issue. In my setting a cinderblock wall is enough to kill 90% of the signal strength.

Out of curiosity, is the linux device able to browse the internet when the other devices drop the connection?

When you say it drops the connection, does it become a limited connection (yellow triangle over wifi bars in bottom right of taskbar) or disconnects altogether?

Are you able to see the network during this time in the list of available networks? You can always use Wifi Analyzer app on your android device to check wifi signal/strength/etc also.

I thought of a similar application to this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Well, we're talking about a very small device with a very small antenna placed at a very awkward position between a TV/monitor and a wall. If the router is placed far away you have the perfect conditions for poor wifi reception.

Still, I already used the CC in a worst case scenario with dozens of nearby wifi networks, very far from my Asus RT-AC68U and it worked fine.

If you have an android try the app wifi analyser and move the 2.4ghz channel to the least used one (for best results always use 1, 6 or 11 even if the others have less networks...)

If your house is flat (only one floor) keep the antennas of the router completely vertical. If possible make some space between the router and the nearest wall.

Doing these steps will maximize your wifi coverage but it might not be enough. You mentioned it worked better with the previous router and that might be true due to antena configuration being better suited for that particular position.

I like this app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Get an app from the Google Play store for your android phone or tablet called "Wifi Analyzer" and it will show which wifi channels are in use or empty. It's amazing how crowded the channels can be in some areas.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Well chances are the Refurbished router will have some kind of limited guarantee. As long as you get a generation 3 router you should be fine. It's probably going to be a "red band" Actiontech MI424WR rev I. http://www.actiontec.com/41.html It's actually rated up to 100 I believe. The only reason to go for the generation 4, beyond wifi, is if you are on 150/150. In all honestly, 802.11N shouldn't have a problem delivering around 75/75 over wifi but you need to be on a channel that is free of interference from your neighbors. Only channels 1,6, and 11 are free from interfering with each other but some idiots use channel 2, 3, 8, etc which makes it easier.

If you have an Android device, use this app to do a site survey to pick the right channel for you:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

If you have android you could try this tool

Have you many houses around you? It may be useful to use something like Wifi Analyser to give you an idea if any other wifis are sitting on the same space.

Something like this installed on your phone can help:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

If you have an Android phone you can use "Wifi Analyzer" to help you choose the best channel for your router. It's a free app. You can get it at: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer If you don't have an Android phone then there are a few other ways although they're slightly more complicated.

> Do you know if there is a way to disable wifi calling without disabling all wifi?

Open Phone app, Settings, Calls, Wifi Calling, turn it off.

I'd suggest downloading Wifi Analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

And see how many other signals you see, maybe try changing your wifi channel to the least used one. If you do have a lot of interference a new AP may help as the 5 GHz band is way less crowded.

As to roaming, Fi only roams onto VZW and AT&T in areas where they have agreements to roam, you don't get the same roaming coverage that direct Sprint/T-mobile customers have. Not sure if support can tell you specific areas or not, could always ask.

As to the network selection, I believe it tries to learn over time what the best signal to use is, if you Clear Data for the Fi app it will get rid of the stored data, might be worth a shot (note you will have to run through Fi activation again when you clear the data).

Assuming that it is channel interference, try using an app like Wifi Analyzer on your phone to scan and advise the best channels to use - it might not be the ones that you have already tried.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

https://itunes.apple.com/au/app/network-analyzer-lite-wifi/id562315041?mt=8

I use this on Android;

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_GB

I'm sure the Apple store has something similar if that's your thing.

2.4 GHz interference affects connections no matter how close you are to the router. Using Bluetooth at the same time can make the interference worse. Installing WiFi Analyzer and using it to help move your network to an unpopulated channel (1, 6, or 11) may help. Your best option is to get a dual-band router and connect on the 5 GHz network.

Here are some that are free that seem good, I have only used the Windows 10 and Android one though. Can't vouch for the others. Windows 10, Windows other than 10, Android, iOS.

To expand on this, you can use a smart phone 'Wifi Analyzer' app to find out for sure what channel your speakers are using, and move your router to the farthest possible channel to prevent interference.

1st I'd connect directly to your modem and run some speedtest.net test at a number of different locations to see if the problem persists...

If they do I'd power cycle everything, leave them off for a couple minutes before powering back up, and test again... same result you'll want to contact your ISP and find out WTH is wrong as it is probably on their end.

Now if you connect to your modem directly and you don't have the same issues than you'll want to look into your wifi settings. If you live in a "congested area" you can download an app like wifi analyzer to see what channels your neighbors are using and switch to the least congest channel. The steps to do that vary depending on your router, but it should be pretty straight forward.

dude, it's probably just interference

first off, if you have an android phone, get Wifi Analyzer so that you can check your own router's signal strength around the house, as well channel availability. More routers set on a specific channel, more interference from each other. Set your router to a different channel.

All depends on how many people who have available to assist for the project, how many AP's there are, how the APs are mounted, if the APs are visible or not, is your cabling / wall ports / patch panels reliably labeled?

My recommendation is to go ahead and on paper name each AP at each location (so F1-H3-AP2 (ect); where F=Floor;H=Hall;AP=AccessPoint). Now when you identify the AP during the project you have a clear name and reference point (this is particularly helpful if you have others working with you).

Now, as for the technical side of recognizing each AP here's some tools at your disposal:
1) WiFi Analyzer (App on Smartphone), will tell you all SSID's it sees, the MAC address of the AP broadcasting the SSID, and the Channel # the AP is broadcasting the SSID on. WiFi Analyzer for Android.
2) Thru Cisco WLAN controller you have the ability to make the LED's on an individual AP blink/flash for a set amount of time more info on Cisco WLAN Controller.

First port of call should still be to plug an ethernet cable in and see if it still happens, have you tried changing the channels on the router? Maybe give something like this app a go and see if the current channel signal dips when SteamVR is active.

Are you talking about home service or cell service?

For Home Service:

If you're in an apartment building the problem is most likely that there are to many people on the same wi-fi channel. You can see this two ways, either with a computer that's wi-fi capable or with an android device.

For PC you'd want to download Xirrius Wi-Fi Inspector, although the website seems to be kind of fucky at the moment. Anyway, once it's up and running, you might have to run it twice, you'll be able to see all other wi-fi networks in your immediate vicinity. What you're looking for is anyone else that's on the same wi-fi channel as yourself and put yourself on one that's less occupied. To do that, you need to get into the router which you do by putting 192.168.1.254 into the address bar of you browser, enter the user name an password which should be on a sticker on the side of your router.

For android you want to download Wifi Analyzer and basically do the same thing as above.

However this may not remedy the issue if you're on DSL, including Uverse DSL if you're near CSUN. For whatever reason, the DSL near CSUN suffers from peak usage hours making it basically unusable during the hours that class is in session.

At the very least call AT&T and have them run a line test on your property, a squirrel may have chewed on your lines or a tree branch may have fallen damaging them.

There are other things you can try as well, like changing your DNS to Google's DNS in your router which is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4.

You may simply have a roommate that is really shitty at torrenting and is seeding shit loads of data which will cause a major slowdown.

For Cell Service:

Cell service is trickier to fix, you can sometimes force it to work by flicking airplane mode on and off or by ordering an AT&amp;T MicroCell.

There's not really much you can do to fix shitty cell service unfortunately.

Usually there's a setting in your WiFi router. If you have an Android device use WiFi Analyzer to determine the clearest channel to switch to.

If you have access to an Android device, Wifi Analyzer is a handy app to see what networks are around and which channel they're on.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

What type of connection is it, WPS, WPA, or WPA2? 802.11a/b/g/n/ac? Download the Wifi Analyzer app for Android to help you gather information about your network.

Step 1 to troubleshooting bad wifi is to test the area, and test speeds at different locations in your house.

You say you have 4 phones, so use one of them with Wifi Analyzer (or equivalent on iPhone if that's all you have). Make sure that your wifi is on a channel with minimal crowding. Then grab speedTest.net's app, and test around with that.

The questions you want to answer are:

• What speed am I getting on wifi right next to the modem? Where does it drop off?
• Is my modem broadcasting on a crowded channel? Can I move to a better one?
• Is the speed issue on one device, or all of them?
• Would a third party router fix my problem?

That last one is hard to figure out, if you can't make the all in one work, see if you can borrow a router from a friend to test with. Or go to a computer shop, ask about their return policy and buy a router (return it if it doesn't help).

If the issue exists on only your wireless desktop, well I think you can guess what I'd suggest. The alternative is to get a better wireless card for your desktop or buy/make a directional antenna (which may or may not help).

Finally, you can consider a wireless extender, but they are only as good as the router they connect to, and in my experience complicate more than they help.

Get this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

And set your router to use a channel as far away from others as possible. If you're in an area with closely space houses (or worse, townhouses/apartments) there's probably a ton of traffic in the 2.4ghz band. Switching channels might help but only so much. 5Ghz would be the way to go.

Also, various flavors of wifi are generally only good for about half their rated speed. That is to say don't expect much more than 20s out of 802.11g.

Can't go wrong with: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

I have a similar problem so I've spent some time looking this up and I'm starting to see a trend in my research. Let me ask you this, do you have an old router? If yes then there's a good chance that this is the problem. From what I can see there is a good chance that the connection between your routers wifi and the chromecast is on the border of whats okay.

Personally I have installed this app and will check my wifi when I get home. My router is old and I have a feeling that this is whats causing my troubles.

Again, this is very anecdotal but like I said, after having read thread after thread on this subject the router thing is something that comes up again and again.

Best of luck.

There's a few phone apps which will do this. Think the one I have - I forget the name and my phone is way over there charging (first-world problems, right?) - is possibly called Wifi Scanner or something (Android).

EDIT: I got off my arse - it's actually called Wifi Analyzer.

do you have other wifi units operating ? do you have the best wifi channel for your location [see wifi analyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en ] umm cannot think of anythign else to ask

Try switching to another channel in your router's configuration. If too many people are using the same channel (your neighbors for example) then there will be too much interference. There's also an Android App for analyzing which channels are populated at the moment:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Is this all wireless internet, except for the old computer?

Try downloading wifi analyzer for your phone (I've linked to the google play store - if you have an iphone, that won't work)

Use that to get an idea about how "busy" the area is. If a lot of wifi signals overlap, they drown out each other, and that has a remarkable effect on speed.

You should also be able to see if there's some "free space" in the wireless ranges. Wireless signals run on channels, from one to 14, but if you can see a lot of wireless signals clustered around channel 1, then it could be a good idea to change your wireless transmitter, to use channel 5, for example.

Oh, and also, of course, change the password on the wireless access point.

Finally, turn off all computers in the house, see if the problem goes away. Turn them on, one by one, and see when the problem comes back. If there's one computer that's infected by a botnet, it'll send out tons and tons of data, hosing the connection, and making the internet useless for others.

Are you in a multi unit building? Download WiFi Analyzer, if you're on Android, and take a screenshot of the signals page. Likely just congestion.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Have you tried using some kind of a wifi analyzer to see if it's really emitting something?

For instance using an app for the phone called "wifi analyzer" https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

or installing inssider on the laptop? http://www.inssider.com/

See if you pick up anything with them

I use that feature on WiFi Analyzer to differentiate between separate APs on the same SSID. It works for single-point networks, too.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

The ideal channel is the one least populated by other wireless networks. There's usually an option to change it in your router's settings page.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_GB This one I use.

This. I like to use this to see what channels are congested.

Is there lots of wifi's around you? It could be conflicting channels from other wifi's. Change the channel yours is on to something that no one else is on. This bad boy is the goods for working out which channel and strength other wifi's and yours are on. Pick one that doesn't conflict as badly with the others around you.

Try Wifi Analyzer, a smartphone app which can check wifi signals. It's possible one of your neighbours has gotten a new router which interferes with your signal. If you wifi signal is slightly weaker in your room, or the interfering signal is stronger in your room, this might explain the issue. If there's another signal interfering with yours, check to see if your router/modem has a switch to use a different channel.

For what ever reason, my cellular signal for both carriers goes to crap when I'm sitting on my couch. Any calls made or received from there tend to use my wifi.

No real settings I could recommend for your router to force things to wifi, but I would recommend you make sure you have little interference on your selected wifi channels. You can see what your airspace looks like by using an app like Wifi Analyzer. You'll probably be able to avoid more interference by operating on a 5GHz channel. I run different SSIDs, one for 2.4GHz and another for 5GHz, and I have only set my phone to connect on the 5GHz SSID.

You might want to check your router itself, how far from it you are and maybe check the channel its on with an app like WiFi Analyzer. My phone never really drops from my WiFi, and it also reconnects instantly after unlocking my phone. Your WiFi is also supposed to turn off after locking your phone to save battery, as long as nothing is using it such as a download.

EDIT: Also with your WiFi not connecting instantly, check settings and look for an error message. Your router may have trouble assigning your device an IP, in that case maybe set up a static IP for your device.

Here is my list of must have Apps:

• WLAN Analyser See details to all available WLANs -> walk around in your home and see the signal strength change; Really helpfull to determine router placement and choosing the WLAN Channel
  
• ES File Explorer Copy/Move/Delete Files Locally from FTP/NAS servers/Smb shares etc; i use it to backup fotos to my NAS; and to get my Music collection on my phone... i do not like plugging it into the computer
  
• Reddit is fun Golden Platinum Get used to it, it is the best reddit app ever. It will quickly be your most used app. Set it to dark mode...

First step is to isolate the issue. Connect to the modem and test ethernet speeds. if Ethernet gives good speeds, the issue is with wifi. download [this](acrylicwifi.com/en/wlan-software/wlan-scanner-acrylic-wifi-free/) for windows or this for android and check the best channel (one as far away from other networks as possible). Default logins can be found here . Log in, go to wifi settings and change the control channel number. Also, see if there is a 5GHz network for your modem and if there is one, use that instead of the slow and interference prone 2.4GHz.

If the speeds on ethernet are low, then it's totally on TWC's end(unless you have an ancient PC).

WiFi Analyzer for your android.

Use a WiFi analyzer. There is an option to track one signal strength where you can walk around and find where the signal is the strongest. Here is one for Andriod (iOS won't allow them) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Try turning your router completely off and then using an app on a smartphone like WiFi analyzer on android (not sure what to use on iPhone, sorry). You'll be able to see which channels are crowded. Then turn your router back on and select a channel with the fewest other wireless networks on it.

Some wireless routers have a way to do this from their web interface.

I use this one.

I don't know if there's a version for laptops or desktops. I just use it on my phone.

If this is a home setting, you don't have to worry about it. The advantages would be if you had a lot of active devices using the AP and would want say, heavy users like streaming on one channel band and then the casual web browsers on the other channel. All of this is to avoid channel congestion.

You should also run a WiFi scanner to determine which channels are also being used by your neighbors in order to get the best quality of service using INSSIDER or this nifty Android app.

Try an app like this one to see how much wifi traffic is flying around. While it seems like there are 14 channels for 2.4GHz wifi, because of signal leakage/overlap there are actually only 4 in an optimal case. Alternatively, if you can, try a wired connection.

Link to app

Since it basically means it's a wireless problem all we can do to help is trying to alleviate the problem, you might still have issues.

Most likely you have this problem for 1 out of 2 reasons. 1: Poor signal strength. 2: You live somewhere where there are lots of other WiFi networks within range and all these signals create noise on your WiFi making you lag.

For number 2, you should try changing the channel of your router's WiFi. First you need to check which channels are available. If you have an android phone install WiFi analyzer. This will tell you which channel is the least used in your area so you can change to that channel. No equivalent product for iPhone. On PC you can use WiFiInfoView. It won't tell you straight out which channel is the best, but you can see what everyone else is using and avoid those channels.

Channels 1, 6 and 11 are the best channels. The reason for this is that the channels overlap eachother (5mhz between each channel, but each channel is 20-40mhz wide). Most routers use channel 6 out of the box. If only one or two other people are using channels 1 or 11 it's fine to use one of those. If channels 1, 6 and 11 are all heavily used, you can try choosing a channel in the middle of any of the "good" channels to test it out.

If you need help setting up your router to change these settings, post your router's brand and model here and we can help you.

Your router seems fine. It's probably wireless interference from somebody who set up new Wifi equipment and it's conflicting with your signal. Go into your router's config page, make sure your router firmware is up to date, and find out what channel is the least problematic and configure your router accordingly.

This Android app will help if you have such a phone.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Or you can scan your area using a laptop and this program.

https://www.acrylicwifi.com/en/wlan-software/wlan-scanner-acrylic-wifi-free/

If your area is too crowded by Wifi signals, you should buy a FireTV instead and connect directly to the router via Ethernet. I personally never stream to my TV over Wifi because of the possibility of this kind of interference.

A small portion of radiation does leave the microwave, due to quantum tunneling. A running microwave has a significant effect 2.4 GHz band. You can test it out by placing a phone near a microwave, using a program like WiFi Analyzer to read the signal to noise ratio, then turning the microwave on, and measuring the change in signal to noise ratio.

The emissions can be high enough that it will drown out lower power 2.4 GHz transmissions, like Bluetooth signals.

Do you mean something like this?

There is a WifiManager class in the Android SDK that gives low-level access to this data.

Wifi Analyzer

Har selv brugt det her app :)

Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...

• WifiInfoView (for Vista, 7, 8) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
• WirelessNetView (for XP) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html
• Wifi Analyzer (for Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
• inSSIDer (the free/office version was great, but harder to find today)

Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number) in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.

Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...

• to use whatever channel is free (and furthest away from any other used channels)
• if there are no free channels then pick the channel that is the weakest around you
• do not let your router use "auto" for the channel
• setting the wireless to 20Mhz bandwidth may yield better results than 20/40Mhz

You might also benefit from using Google DNS which is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (rather than your ISP's DNS servers which are often lousy) After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.

Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router. (linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously) Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"

You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)

If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler. You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.

Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...

• other people's wireless on the same or neighboring channels (someone could have suddenly changed their channel, left their's on "auto" or added another AP)
• baby monitors
• walkie talkies
• microwaves
• cordless phones (use DECT 6.0 cordless phones, which actually use 1.6Ghz to avoid the 2.4Ghz/5Ghz used by wireless networks)
• wireless audio/video senders or security cameras (many of these are extremely noisy 2.4Ghz)
• wireless intercom or doorbells

This app has been invaluable to wifi analysis and site surveys:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

• what is the client device?

• what are the spec of the server?

• what is the format/container/bitrate og the video?

• how are the device connected ? i.e wired, wireless

• what program/app are you using to connect to plex?

• what os?

• is it a computer, laptop, smart tv, phone.......?

• it is hard if not impossible to answer these kinds of questions without at least some of the relevant information

here are some basic network advice i can give you, based on what little information you have given me

Troubleshooting network/performance problems

General wired connection issues

1. Make sure the server and the connected device have the newest version of their software/apps
2. Try using the web app plex.tv/web/app to test your connection
3. Use Ethernet instead of wireless for every possible connection
4. Disable qos on your router (may cause) buffering issues
5. Update the routers firmware
6. Update the the driver for the network card in your pc
7. Assign your plex server a static ip, here is a great tutorial
8. Do you have the correct ports forwarded on your router (32400)?

General wireless connection issues

1. Make sure the server and the connected device have the newest version of their software/apps
2. Try using the web app plex.tv/web/app to test your connection
3. Disable qos on your router (may cause) buffering issues
4. Update the routers firmware
5. Update your wifi driver
6. If you can set the routers wifi to 40 mhz and wireless n (or wireless ac if all devices support it)
7. If you have an android device get the app wifi analyser and try to find a less crowded wifi Chanel
8. Assign your plex server a static ip, here is a great tutorial
9. Do you have the correct ports forwarded on your router (32400)?

Are you using wifi? This is probably something causing your wifi to get packet loss. There are a lot of devices that is using the same 2.4GHz spectrum as wifi, so a lot of thing that can interfere. Thing like Bluetooth, wireless mice/keyboard/headphones, cordless phones, baby monitors, RC cars, microwave ovens, wireless security cameras, other wifi networks and pretty much anything wireless you can think of can be a problem. So closing the window might be enough to block out some signal coming from your neighbors.

There are 2 solutions to this. First of all, you can try changing the frequency your router is using for the wifi. You want to be using either channel 1, 6 or 11 (as the channels overlap and a wifi network takes up 2 channels on either side of the one you pick). There is an app called &quot;Wifi Analyzer&quot; for android (probably something similar for the iphone) that you can use too see other wifi networks, what channels they are using and how close they are. However this app does only see other networks, and can't see other interference, so just try 1, 6 and 11 to see which works best.

The other solution, which is way better for gaming, is to just get an Ethernet cable and hook up your computers directly to your router. Wifi is never great to game on, as it will always cause some latency. And in your case, a lot of latency as you are getting packet loss.

To hop on this comment this app is great Wifi Analyzer it works great for seeing which channel isnt crowded. Just make sure your phone supports 5ghz otherwise it will be all in vain most new phones support im assuming since my 3 year old LG G2 supports 5ghz

if you're on your own private network with just you on it, wifi power only depends on the quality of wifi.

• make sure your router isn't shit. Generally the combo-boxes provided by robbers or bail are shit (rogers/bell).

• https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en - see how crowded your area is. If it's too crowded you're better off running a wire.

• running cord through apt is usually ok. You can always tape it to the floor or something, or run it along the wall behind furniture. Since you're in a managed building you'll want to avoid any wall or floor damage though, so be careful.

What model wireless router do you have?

This app can also tell you if you're on 2.4MHz or 5GHz:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

It's aptly named WiFi Analyzer.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

This will only be of help if you are in an area where there are several WiFi points in range, e.g. an appartment complex.

Access your router's settings by entering http://192.168.1.1/ in your browser and hitting enter. In the login screen the user will be admin, the password will either be blank, your wifi password or your default wifi password (Should be printed on the box). Click on Wireless and then Advanced. Here you want to change the channel, but what you change it to is abit tricky. Channels 1, 6 and 11 are the best so every router uses one of these by default. In a WiFi dense area this makes for alot of noise which equals lag. If you have an Android phone install WiFi Analyzer!. It will scan your area and find the best channel. No equal product for iPhone unless its jailbroken sadly. On Windows (PC), you can use WiFiInfoView!. It won't tell you straight out which channel is best, but you can see which channels everyone else uses. If everyone around you uses all the good channels (1, 6 and 11), but no one is using any of the other, try to get right in the middle of 2 of the least used good channels. (If only 1 or 2 people around you are using channels 1 or 11 it's perfectly fine to use those.)

If you have a low signal to your router you might want to consider buying a Powerline Adapter. A Powerline Adapter plugs into the electrical socket in your wall and turns your entire house's power line into a lan network. You put one next to your router, run a cable from your router and to the adapter, put another adapter at your PC and run a wire from it to your PC. As far as I can tell, most people seem very happy with it in regards to ping vs WiFi. I'm far from an expert on these so please use google well before buying one.

Living with roommates you aren't banging sounds terrible. I used a wifi analyzer.

If I could find an excellent one that was designed a few years ago, I'd do that. Just don't really feel like spending $50+ on something I'll replace in a year or two when google fiber is here.

Never had any speed issues, and I did almost the exact same things as you. Nothing you mentioned affects WiFi speed. Are you having both slow WiFi and LTE?

There must be something else related. Unless there is an actual speed issue?

Download wifi analyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

and see what that says.

If it is an LTE issue, please type in your carrier (T-Mobile) APN settings via google. https://support.t-mobile.com/docs/DOC-17581

Also check your battery usage. Running apps, and wakelocks for anything beyond the usual Google Play Services, Network Location, etc...

Yes its called. Wifi Analyzer

Edit: you can see what channels are there and how crowded they are.

Put the router in the most central location and as high as you can. Use an app like WiFi Analyzer on your phone to find the channels that have the least interference and use them. 5Ghz will likely have less interference, use that on as many devices as possible.

I use the wifi analyzer app

link

Wireless networks are finicky creatures. There are all sorts of things that could contribute to this sort of issue, which would take several weeks of explanation to a computer programming student. I'll mention what I can that might help, but it's been a while since I took that class so take my comments with a grain of salt.

Signal strength is a measure of the Signal-to-Noise Ratio of the received signal... which isn't actually a ratio, but that's not the important part. If your PC shows a high signal strength for your wireless router, that only means that your PC can "hear" your router. It doesn't mean that your router can hear your PC. This means that you can end up having outgoing packets dropped even though your computer rightfully advertises that it has a clear signal from the router.

Now, normally I'd think that the PC didn't have the proper antenna attached. Desktop computers often require external antennae for full signal strength. However, your post indicates that you've already tried a different adapter. I'd first ask whether or not you've tried that USB adapter in your laptop in the same location as your desktop.

Assuming your laptop also has trouble in the same location with the same WiFi hardware, then you're probably looking at some kind of interference. There may be something else operating on the same frequencies near the router interfering with its ability to receive messages from your PC. The good news is, you may be able to just switch to a better WiFi channel.

If you have an Android phone, have a look at WiFi Analyzer or similar programs available on the app store. I'm not sure what equivalents are out there for other platforms. A tool like that will tell you which WiFi channel is the best for your network. Just be sure the device running the tool is in the location of your troublesome PC and set to use the WiFi network you are trying to improve, and it will give a score for each channel.

I think some hardware also has a setting for transmit power, but I forget where to set that and WiFi TX power is also regulated by law. If a WiFi analysis tool doesn't solve your problem, you might want to do some research into that and/or extended antennas.

Hope it helps!

>The network card and inSSIDer only detect one network, which I'm pretty sure is wrong.

Yeah that seems unusual....I would have to imagine you should see at least one other network being that 2.4 is fairly crowded. Do you have an Android device? If so stick this on it and see what all it can find: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

However being that you are so close I'm thinking that interference is most likely not the cause (though hard to rule it out completely). Did you try plugging direct into the router and running a speedtest that way?

Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...

• WifiInfoView (for Vista, 7, 8) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
• WirelessNetView (for XP) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html
• Wifi Analyzer (for Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
• inSSIDer (the free/office version was great, but harder to find today)

Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number) in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.

Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...

• to use whatever channel is free (and furthest away from any other used channels)
• if there are no free channels then pick the channel that is the weakest around you
• do not let your router use "auto" for the channel
• setting the wireless to 20Mhz bandwidth may yield better results than 20/40Mhz

You might also benefit from using Google DNS which is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (rather than your ISP's DNS servers which are often lousy) After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.

Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router. (linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously) Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"

You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)

If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler. You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.

Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...

• other people's wireless on the same or neighboring channels (someone could have suddenly changed their channel, left their's on "auto" or added another AP)
• baby monitors
• walkie talkies
• microwaves
• cordless phones (use DECT 6.0 cordless phones, which actually use 1.6Ghz to avoid the 2.4Ghz/5Ghz used by wireless networks)
• wireless audio/video senders or security cameras (many of these are extremely noisy 2.4Ghz)
• wireless intercom or doorbells

Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...

• WifiInfoView (for Vista, 7, 8) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
• WirelessNetView (for XP) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html
• Wifi Analyzer (for Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
• inSSIDer (the free/office version was great, but harder to find today)

Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number) in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.

Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...

• to use whatever channel is free (and furthest away from any other used channels)
• if there are no free channels then pick the channel that is the weakest around you
• do not let your router use "auto" for the channel
• setting the wireless to 20Mhz bandwidth may yield better results than 20/40Mhz

You might also benefit from using Google DNS which is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (rather than your ISP's DNS servers which are often lousy) After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.

Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router. (linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously) Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"

You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)

If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler. You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.

Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...

• other people's wireless on the same or neighboring channels (someone could have suddenly changed their channel, left their's on "auto" or added another AP)
• baby monitors
• walkie talkies
• microwaves
• cordless phones (use DECT 6.0 cordless phones, which actually use 1.6Ghz to avoid the 2.4Ghz/5Ghz used by wireless networks)
• wireless audio/video senders or security cameras (many of these are extremely noisy 2.4Ghz)
• wireless intercom or doorbells

If you want to be able to select Access Points and investigate nearby WIFI, you need an app called Wifi Analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

This is all sorts of bullshit.

Here's the first article I googled to explain it a bit, even though that's based on the Tomato firmware but it's the same premise.

Basically...

1) You can increase a router's power, fact.

2) The Comcast reps cannot increase your -xmit- power with their tools on your rented gateway, they just can't. The firmware doesn't allow it, neither do the tools they use to manage it.

3) Running a higher -xmit- will put additional stress/heat on your router, which is why no manufacturer does it out of the box, especially since almost all routers have passive cooling. They're not going to max their equipment when they know there will be a time when someone is gonna leave it on the floor, covered in blankets that their dog sits on, blocking all vents and choking it, because people are stupid. They have to account for extraneous circumstances. Regardless, they can't do that anyway!!!

There is no "maxmimum range". They changed your router to a different channel (1, 6, or 11, the only channels that don't overlap). Basically, they probably saw you were on Ch1 and changed you to 6... or 11...and crossed their fingers.

You can check your wifi interference by downloading a free Android app, such as Wifi Analyzer, dunno what the same is for iPhone, but that will tell you how many people are on what channels.

Choose the one that's least congested on 1, 6, or 11. All the other channels overlap and wont help much.

There.

Get a WiFi detection tool (there are apps for your phone that do this, like iStumbler or Wifi Analyzer) and walk around with it to get some idea of where it's coming from. Are you sure it's a network connection you're seeing? You might have accidentally enabled the tethering/hotspot option on your phone or another device. If so, turn it off. Should be under your internet settings.

Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...

• WifiInfoView (for Vista, 7, 8) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
• WirelessNetView (for XP) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html
• Wifi Analyzer (for Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
• inSSIDer (the free/office version was great, but harder to find today)

Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number) in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.

Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...

• to use whatever channel is free (and furthest away from any other used channels)
• if there are no free channels then pick the channel that is the weakest around you
• do not let your router use "auto" for the channel
• setting the wireless to 20Mhz bandwidth may yield better results than 20/40Mhz

You might also benefit from using Google DNS which is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (rather than your ISP's DNS servers which are often lousy) After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.

Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router. (linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously) Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"

You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website) If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler. You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.

Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...

• other people's wireless on the same or neighboring channels (someone could have suddenly changed their channel, left their's on "auto" or added another AP)
• baby monitors
• walkie talkies
• microwaves
• cordless phones (use DECT 6.0 cordless phones, which actually use 1.6Ghz to avoid the 2.4Ghz/5Ghz used by wireless networks)
• wireless audio/video senders or security cameras (many of these are extremely noisy 2.4Ghz)
• wireless intercom or doorbells

Tried rebooting Linksys router?

Tried firmware update to the Linksys router?

Tried changing your DNS to Google DNS of 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.

If you are connected to the router via wireless...

Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...

• WifiInfoView (for Vista, 7, 8) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
• WirelessNetView (for XP) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html
• Wifi Analyzer (for Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
• inSSIDer (the free/office version was great, but harder to find today)

Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number) in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.

Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...

• to use whatever channel is free (and furthest away from any other used channels)
• if there are no free channels then pick the channel that is the weakest around you
• do not let your router use "auto" for the channel
• setting the wireless to 20Mhz bandwidth may yield better results than 20/40Mhz

Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router. (linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously) Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"

You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)

If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler. You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.

Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...

• other people's wireless on the same or neighboring channels (someone could have suddenly changed their channel, left their's on "auto" or added another AP)
• baby monitors
• walkie talkies
• microwaves
• cordless phones (use DECT 6.0 cordless phones, which actually use 1.6Ghz to avoid the 2.4Ghz/5Ghz used by wireless networks)
• wireless audio/video senders or security cameras (many of these are extremely noisy 2.4Ghz)
• wireless intercom or doorbells

Do a scan of all the wireless channels around you using a tool like...

• WifiInfoView (for Vista, 7, 8) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html
• WirelessNetView (for XP) http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wireless_network_view.html
• Wifi Analyzer (for Android) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
• inSSIDer (the free/office version was great, but harder to find today)

Note that most tools list the wireless signal as RSSI or dBm (a negative number) in which case a lower number (closest to 0) indicates the better signal.

Then set your wireless router (or wireless AP)...

• to use whatever channel is free (and furthest away from any other used channels)
• if there are no free channels then pick the channel that is the weakest around you
• do not let your router use "auto" for the channel
• setting the wireless to 20Mhz bandwidth may yield better results than 20/40Mhz

You might also benefit from using Google DNS which is 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 (rather than your ISP's DNS servers which are often lousy) After changing DNS servers you should reboot your router and all computers/devices so the cache is flushed and the new settings are used.

Consider that you might just have a crappy or damaged wireless router. (linksys, netgear, dlink all make "home grade" crap that lasts a few years and/or can only handle very few devices connected simultaneously) Note the count of wireless devices isn't limited to just your own devices, if you are in an area (apartment/townhome/city) with lots of other wireless things in range, all of those other things are also making your router work harder to filter out the "noise"

You could try a firmware upgrade your router (available on the manufacturer's support website)

If the router is extra warm or on top of a heat source (like an amplifier or cable box/modem) move it where it will be cooler. You could try putting a fan near it to keep it cool.

Consider interfering signals nearby that you need to avoid...

• other people's wireless on the same or neighboring channels (someone could have suddenly changed their channel, left their's on "auto" or added another AP)
• baby monitors
• walkie talkies
• microwaves
• cordless phones (use DECT 6.0 cordless phones, which actually use 1.6Ghz to avoid the 2.4Ghz/5Ghz used by wireless networks)
• wireless audio/video senders or security cameras (many of these are extremely noisy 2.4Ghz)
• wireless intercom or doorbells

I would suggest trying to update the router and do a complete factory reset. Then, only enable the 2.4 GHz band and make sure it is setup to be wireless-G compatible (this probably shouldn't make a differences than setting it as wireless-N, but just an extra troubleshooting step). Turn off all security and encryption and try connecting.

If it still doesn't work, you want to see if there is any interference from other wireless networks. Use the Android app Wifi Analyzer and see if there are a lot of other networks in your area and if any of them are broadcasting on the same channel. If they are, then switch channels. If there are no empty channels, then the 2.4 GHz spectrum in your area is saturated and there is not much you can do besides getting a new more powerful router, moving the router closer to the Chromecast, or getting a repeater.

In general the faster the router is capable of (as long as your laptop uses the same technology like 802.11n or 802.11ac) then theoretically the more you have to work with. With wireless you have to remember that it is susceptible to interference and the further you are (or the more barriers you have between your laptop and router) the slower it will connect. Also, if you have multiple wireless devices you need to remember that they are all connecting to the same router on the same channel/frequency, meaning the more there are the slower each will be as they have to share the air.

In general a 2.4GHz signal can penetrate more barriers (to a degree, concrete is worse than wood to penetrate for example) and go a little further, but 5GHz usually is less congested as everyone and their dog uses 2.4 (including cordless phones, microwaves, bluetooth, etc). so, 802.11n can use both frequencies depending on the hardware (5GHz is optional for n), and AC uses 5Ghz - check this out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11#802.11a_.28OFDM_Waveform.29

likely you will want to look at newer technology such as at least 'N' (preferably 'N' that does both 2.4 and 5GHz as the 5GHz part is 'optional' for some manufacturers) or even 'AC' which does 5GHz with multiple streams or connections to make it faster.

The size of the antenna will have an effect as well on the router, but you have to keep in mind that client devices such as a laptop usually have a small antenna, so the 'strength' is often times one way if only the router has bigger antennas.

I suggest trying to track down a wifi analyzer and see what is being broadcast on the various channels in your area (your neighbors) to help make a decision of 2.4 vs 5ghz and what channel to use when you do the set up of the router. Some routers might aslo be able to 'autoselect' the least congested channel that it can 'hear'. If you have an android this one works well and is free - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Finding one for windows is trickier, most are not free anymore or are out of date. you can try checking out these but I do not know how well they work as I have never used them - http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/wifi_information_view.html or http://wvw.xirrus.com/wifi-inspector

if all the channels are clogged up (especially in the 2.4GHz frequency, which might be true) that would explain poor signal/connections in some rooms. for 2.4 there are only 3 channels that are useful - 1, 6, and 11. The ones in between 'overlap' with each other and can cause interference with the neighbors using a nearby channel (like channel 2 and 3 would overlap). You can try changing the channel setting now on your router to 1 then 6 then 11 to see if your signals improve with any of them before spending cash on a new router.

Wifi radio channel could be very busy with traffic. Not just yours but neighbors. Most routers default at channel 6. WIFI isn't a switch and performs more like a hub regarding radio traffic.

On google play https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Channels 1,6 and 11 are the only ones without overlap.

Pick the one with the least number of stronger signals remembering the overlap. I'm not a fan of auto channel setting and would rather re-scan when issues appear. i.e. I might be on 1 permanently and let those other routers play the auto game.

I suspect with the apps you aren't streaming HD down but with the web browser you are...

If you have an android device install WiFi Analyzer, there are plenty of choices on Windos or OSX, just search Wifi scanner.

Determine the best channel to set the router to, there is a guide for this on the side.

I suggest you plug your computer to the router and run a speed test a couple of times. Then, unplug said computer and while having it right next to the router, run a speed test again. Note if there is a significant difference and report back. Wireless is one of the worst things to troubleshoot, there are too many variables to consider. And your wireless device isn't too great.

If you're on wireless, check to make sure your signal isn't being interrupted by others in the nearby area.

Here is a handy android app that helps me when diagnosing wireless issues.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

It's best to select a wireless channel that is separated by 5 channels from another transmission. If that is not possible, the farthest away possible in channels will suffice.

In example, my network transmits on channel 3, there are multiple networks in my area on channels 1, 6, 11. I chose 3 because there were more networks on 6 and 11 than 1.

If you need further help, please don't hesitate to ask!

There's also farproc's WiFi Analyzer for Android.

I agree. OP, give something like WiFi Analyzer a go on your Android device. It should help you identify a relatively clear channel.

One side observation: I've always found poor connectivity directly above the router (i.e. ~20° from top dead centre)

If you have an Android phone, use WiFi Analyzer. It'll let you know if it's a 5GHz or 2.5GHz connection. The 3DS can only connect to the 2.5GHz one.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Which router do you have? Have you logged into its admin interface to see whether it is set to change the channel automatically?

On Android, I use this - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer - to measure WiFi strength & channel availability.

It could be interference from a neighbour's WiFi or even microwave oven. Install WiFi Analyser on an Android phone and look for overlapping WiFi SSIDs in the same channel for both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. If that is the case, then find an available channel that isn't overlapped. That may be difficult - Google WiFi channel sharing for guidance.

If no SSIDs look to be causing the issue, it could be a microwave oven, cordless phone or baby monitor.

That it went away when your friend's family did suggests it is something they do or use that causes the issue. Maybe they have a laptop with wireless connection sharing switched on that interferes? Or baby monitor? Get your detective hat on!

I use this one

So either your home has lots of interference or a lot of competing signals; you will probably need to run a Wifi signal analyzing program on your phone to see what locations in your home has the best signal levels and then place your extender in one of these locations.

If you have an Android based device, the a good simple app is: Wifi Analyzer bu Farproc.

• https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Linkini paylaşmıştım. Şirketi "farproc", https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en&amp;gl=US

Unless this is a very large house with very large rooms I would not suggest an AP per room as you will end up getting interference. The right way to do this would be to site survey the location. you can do this in a rudimentary way by just buying one, plugging it into a room then using wifi analyzer or something similar to see where it reaches to, adding an access point where needed. this will ensure great coverage while not over saturating your RF space.

Sounds like an old WiFi adapter in PC and possible new AP has a feature called MFP (Management Frame Protection) enabled, and/or is using WPA3.

You can check for this. If you have an Android phone, install Wifi Analyzer, open it's settings (spanner icon) and scroll down and check "Show full securities"

Go back to the previous screen and wait for WiFi to load and look at the first [....] block. If it says [RSN-SAE-CCMP] it's WPA3 and if it says something like [WPA2-PSK+PSK-SHA256-CCMP] (basically if it has +PSK-SHA256 in), then it has MFP enabled.

Because MFP adds extra data to the WiFi frame, older devices may not see the WiFi. Some may see it, but not be able to connect.

Wifi-analyzer. It's an app for iPhone and Android.

It's REALLY good.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

WiFi packet loss is often caused by interference from other WiFi networks or microwave ovens etc. Likely your previous WiFi router was using channels better suited to your environment. A tool like WiFi Analyser may help you identify better channels.

> Ezlo-Atom gateway

> z-wave gateway to see how much it costs

FWIW, the USB powered Ezlo Atom Z-Wave hub (908.4 & 916 MHz) with 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi gateway is available on Amazon for $35:

https://www.amazon.com/Vera-EzloAtom-US-Ezlo-Control-White/dp/B07XGVW2BW/?

> the gateway keeps disconnecting from my wifi network

The Ezio Atom may be experiencing WiFi congestion.

The 2.4 GHz WiFi frequencies are congested because many devices (cellphones, laptops, wireless access points/routers, Bluetooth) compete for the same frequencies/channels.

WiFi channels 1 through 11 have overlapping frequencies, too, which contributes to the congestion issue:

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8c/2.4_GHz_Wi-Fi_channels_%28802.11b%2Cg_WLAN%29.svg

When I experience WiFi issues, I perform a site survey with a WiFi analyzer app/program.

I use WiFi Analyzer by farproc, and it's an app I install on all of my Android (since version 1.1) smartphones and tablets:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;gl=US

On Linux based systems, I use kismet:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kismet_(software)

The site survey will normally show neighbors have changed their WiFi channel (some wireless access points/routers automatically search for the least congested channel when they boot), or have added a WiFi based security camera/Ring doorbell, so I change my wireless access point/router's WiFi channel to a channel with less congestion.

> I’m looking to get something more substantial.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_IN&amp;gl=US

Change channel, turn off 2.4G Cordless , move router away from heavy electrical equipment. put your router in open place etc.

For the Bluetooth issue, remove the other devices temporarily and see if that changes anything.

For the WiFi issue, that depends on your WiFi router. You can install an app on your phone that shows the WiFi channel in use, or you can log into your router's web management interface to check it there.

For the app, I suggest farproc's WiFi Analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US&amp;gl=US

For the router, you will have to read the manual or check with your ISP if they provided it.

1: Buy a better wifi router. Get a TP-Link mesh unit.

2: Also check the channels aren't being overlapped . You can use this app by farproc on an Android Phone to check the channels ---> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en\_AU&amp;gl=US

>u/BaldyCarrotTop - Network tools aren't working. I don't know if this is a LineageOS, Android, or lack of Google services problem...Wi-Fi analyzer by Farproc, Network analyzer by Technet, Magic Iperf, etc. None of these tools want to work...

What's your device model & build date? What does it say in > Settings > About phone > Android version > LineageOS version?

FWIW Wifi analyzer and Network Analyzer by Jiri Techet are both working fine on my Galaxy S5 G900M LineageOS 18.1 klte + MindTheGapps so they probably require Play services.

Try searching https://f-droid.org/ with Wifi or network to find alternatives.

Check if your apps will work properly if you don't install an optional GApps package with this crowdsourced project: https://plexus.techlore.tech/

BTW it's Wifi Analyzer by Farproc and not Wi-Fi analyzer.

No, that is not normal.

Sounds like it might be an interference issue?

Maybe too many shouty wifi signals in your area? Maybe use wifi-analyser app to see how the channels and db ratings are looking... maybe you can set your router to a better channel?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;gl=US

The post I linked above describes same situation as yours. The posted said the ESP's web server was accessible over wifi, while WiFi.status() still returns 6. So... dunno what that means.

That guy suggested: Replacing your while-loop-check with this: while (WiFi.localIP().toString() == "0.0.0.0")

Did you try that?

Sounds like you are using the 2.4Ghz Wifi connection.

Unfortunately Wifi speeds can be affected by any number of factors, so there are no guarantees for steady bandwidth unless you can use a hardwired Ethernet connection from your device directly to the Wifi Router.

If you are forced to use a wireless/Wifi connection, then you will have to do some troubleshooting to try and make the Wifi work as well as possible.

This will start by using a Wifi network analyzing app like:

• https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

And then you can determine which channels are the least busy in your location, then you can manually set your router to use one of those channels.

Just beware that for the 2.4Ghz Wifi, only the channels 1, 6 or 11 are actually usable.

Just a simple and quick tool to check coverage of wireless network . From Google Store 1 . https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer Other similar tool 2 . https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.overlook.android.fing

Check that every band (2.4 and 4 GHz) are both under 60 dBm recommended .

Good luck.

Mesh would only be better because the system coordinates the config automatically. If you figure out the correct settings you don't need this.

Make sure all the APs are set up to use exactly the same SSID name(s), preshared key, and authentication standard. Plan your channel use to avoid overlapping - in the 2.4 GHz spectrum use only channels 1, 6, and 11 and use the same channel for the two APs that are furthest apart. There is less overlap in the 5GHz spectrum. Definitely avoid greater than 20Hz channel width with 4 access points. Use a tool like WiFi Analyser to look at the signal strength of each of your channels close to each access point and in the places where you commonly connect. Depending on how far apart your APs are you likely want to set the radio power lower to avoid your devices changing their minds about which AP to connect to, especially where the crossover points are likely to be where you spend more time rather than just pass through.

Honestly, given some time and experimentation you are likely to do a better job of this manually than a mesh system or many "prosumer" controller managed systems.

I would recommend, if you have Android, installing WiFi Analyser and checking the current channel use in the vicinity of your access point. You want to avoid partial overlaps with other WiFi networks. Better to share a channel where APs and clients can back off than have a slightly overlapping channel interfering. That is why 1, 6 and 11 are the best as they don't overlap at all. 9 can get interference from 6 and 11. I don't know if the Omada channel utilisation caters for this at all. I suspect not.

Can you not use wired for PS5?

If not then, you may get better performance from 2.4 if the signal is weak.

Use something like this to determine what bands to use.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Most likely this is due to the frequency being too congested, meaning you have a lot of neighbors that are also running wifi networks. 2.4Ghz is still way more commonly used than 5Ghz, so it's likely to be much more affected by congestion. 5Ghz also has less range, so you won't get interference from as far away.

What might help is changing the channel on your router. If you have an Android phone I recommend downloading an app called Wifif Analyzer (it might exist for iOS too), it will show you how congested the different wifi channels are and tell you which one is likely to give you the best signal. Go into your routers settings and change to that channel.

It might help, it might not. Depends on how bad the congestion around you is.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_AU&amp;gl=US

Install this on your Android phone. Check what channels you can see and move to one that is free.

Nitpick: you would usually need to pair the devices by entering the code shown or clicking Pair on the phone. The devices need to be connected earlier for this to happen automatically.

If you connected to a speaker, the phone would have to be playing some media for the sound to come out; somewhat improbable when you are hiding.

But then again, we know how accurate Hollywood is when it comes to tech.

Now if the phone happened to be in a hotspot mode, its SSID and signal strength would be trivial to find. A free app like Wifi Analyzer would show the signal strength in real time.

Download a Wi-Fi analyzer app, and use that to sense all the available wifi.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

"He said he wants to come next week and inspect my station, and I said, fine." That is a very strange thing for a lawyer to say. There is nothing this unqualified bureaucrat can determine from looking at your station that would say you are or are not in compliance. I agree it sounds like a fishing expedition; he is looking for more weeds.

This guy has zero jurisdiction over radio interference and neither does the state code he "knows" or the local code he enforces: https://www.arrl.org/federal-rfi-preemption.

And most RFI cases are not the fault of the ham. It is crappy equipment on their end.

They have not even established * that there are signals that don't comply with FCC regulations * that those are coming from a ham station * that those are coming from your ham station Your neighbor could have crappy TV wiring. It could be a CB radio, those frequently transmit signals that are not in compliance with the law. Someone could have parked a vehicle where it interferes with his signal. It could be the power lines; it frequently is. It could be the cellular towers that transmit on former TV frequencies desensitizing a OTA TV amplifier or TV front end. It could be an FM radio broadcast station. It could be another neighbor's vacuum cleaner. In other words, the fact that you are a ham radio operator is not probable cause.

If it interferes with "the internet", tough. Internet via Cable, DSL, fiber, etc. has no rights regarding radio spectrum. By law it "must accept interference from other sources". WiFi must as well, other than deliberate jamming. WiFi channels are secondary users on ham radio bands or in the Industrial, Scientific, and Medical bands (ISM).

Borrow a spectrum analyzer or a decent SDR. preferably something with at least a 12bit ADC (72dB). Add in some decimation to get you a few more bits of resolution.

It sounds like you have some feedline current issues. Those should not be confused with RFI, though, except when you have interference to your stuff. If it is legal for you to radiate it from the antenna it is legal for you to radiate it from the feedline, as long as you don't exceed RF exposure limits for people close to the feedline. However, your feedline might be putting out signals closer to your neighbor. You might want to use something like a Palomar Engineers RF current meter or a DIY version.

Do fill out your RF exposure worksheet for the station in case you do get a visit from the FCC.

It sounds like you have tried to work with the neighbor and the neighbor has done nothing to try to work with you.

Also, the level of harassment suggests that he may not be unbiased, he may have a personal connection to the complaining neighbor.

ARRL article: http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/Neighbor_Info/Neighbor_Info.pdf

One point it raises is that if your ham station doesn't affect your TV, it is very unlikely to affect your neighbor's (allowing for differences in cable vs OTA).

Apps like these can be helpful with figuring out what is wrong with your neighbor's wifi: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Note that older LTE filters may not work as cell providers have encroached further into the TV broadcast band.

You may have a lot of resources in your local club. They may have test equipment, power line filters, HF lowpass filters, EMI chokes, LTE/5G filters, FM traps, etc.

Sorry for delay getting back to you. I used an app called Wifi Analyzer on Android - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer is the one you want. Made by Farproc.

You really need to check the Ubiquiti management interface to see. It'll tell you whether you are connecting in the 2.4 Ghz band or the 5 Ghz band and then the signal strength.

For site survey purposes, I usually use a strength meter app on my iPhone. They exist for the Android as well.

Use Apple's Airport Utility app, which has a secret built in WiFi analyzer. Click here for a tutorial on how to set this app up to analyze your WiFi environment.

For Android devices, use WiFi Analyzer.

This article I wrote a while ago may be helpful. I need to update it for the latest Ubiquiti gear.

Do a full flash erase before programming. Some of the WiFi parameters are stored in Flash unless you tell it to not save the configuration. You might get it working with only erasing Sketch + WiFi Settings, but a full wipe has a slightly better chance of working if the Flash is corrupted.

https://i.imgur.com/nTgFgnc.jpg

If that doesn't do it, fire up a decent WiFi scanner on your phone and check if a new signal pops up in AP mode when you turn the NodeMCU on (whether it actually has an SSID or not). If you're in an area with lots of signals, that may be hard to do. The older version of WiFi Analyzer for Android was pretty good for spotting erratic signals, the newer one doesn't work nearly as well.

Without some RF tools, those are the only things I can think of that you can try easily.

And regarding the analysis

Use your phone - the idea (and what you can see on the picture)

If your network is all alone without covering others colors that mean you are alone on that channel so no interference

If your network share the same as multiple others. Make sure it’s in automatic mode

https://play-lh.googleusercontent.com/TU-HX4NPq5GLdOY8KNVtw3tRWFTOWTsafpWzxJCwdZckpKlNQL27Dqr47rdefDNxhw

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=nl&amp;gl=US

I have OP 8 Pro, and it seems like my phone sees WiFi's on 149 channel. I don't have password to these WiFi's tho. I'm using this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

I personally really like this graphic and I think everyone setting up an access point should know it:

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:NonOverlappingChannels2.4GHzWLAN-en.svg

The important thing is that you want access points to be using channels that are different enough. Then they won't interfere.

If that is not possible for any two APs in the same range, you need to use the exact same channel, because then they can do CSMA/CA and avoid sending at the same time. They will have to share total bandwidth, but they will do it gracefully.

The worst thing you can do is share adjacent channels. Like 3 and 4. Then CSMA/CA won't work, and they will send at the same time but always impact each other because the signals will bleed into each other. Both senders will have to retransmit frequently and you lose even more bandwidth than if they were sharing nicely.

If you can enforce the use of only channels 1, 5, 9, 13 you can maximize the bandwidth for everyone. I don't know how to do the same in the 5GHz band, but it has lower penetration and more differently spaced channels so it may not be as much of an issue. You should google a bit.

Also for measuring roughly what people are currently doing, you can use something very simple like this app on an android phone: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer I don't know what people do professionally.

Also, use a WiFi analyzer app for check what WiFi channels are being used. Change to a different channel if it's already used.

> My desktop still tests out at 950Mbps with an ethernet connection. What did Comcast do?

> To test I tried 2 iPhones, 2 iPads and a Samsung phone all with the same results. I don't think it is my equipment. I am exchanging the modem today and have a service call scheduled for Monday if the new modem doesn't help.

> however the tech said it appeared to be on their equipment and they have had a problem with this in my area.

Like other Redditors have mentioned, the wired throughput is still 950 mbps, so something is affecting you in the WiFi realm.

Odds are WiFi contention is affecting your wireless throughput.

In other words, a neighbor (who may be the other person reporting slow WiFi issues in your neighborhood) is now using the same WiFi channel that you are using.

A quick site survey with a WiFi Analyzer app would quickly (dis)prove this theory.

I use this one:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US&amp;gl=US

Heya, sadly because they live far and because of covid restrictions I didn't get to see them again at their place, but something similar happened to me with one of my stick and I kinda fixed it in a weird way.

I have 1000 up and 1000 down internet so I know that my speed isn't an issue, a firestick should give me at least 90 mbps on a 2.4 signal.

I was trying to watch something 4k on plex and that 4k content was very heavy like 35mbps kind of heavy, pretty much no compression.

The thing was skipping a lot... I did a speedtest and weirdly it could only get 20 mbps.

So a few research later I tried this :

downloaded &quot;wifi analyzer&quot; on my phone and ran some test to see which frequency was the most used.

I then went into my router into wifi settings, manage wifi/advanced.

And changed the 2.4 Channel for something else. that had "less traffic" according to the app.

Suddenly went back to 100mbps on a speedtest for the firestick.

I tried to explain that to my in-laws but they're not very tech savvy and I believe they couldn't find their router password... so I figured i'd try it for them at a later date.

Hope that helps.

Just a few more details you might find useful.

Generally you want your Quest connected to 5Ghz WiFi instead of 2.4ghz. Most modern routers use both so you'll want to make sure you're connecting to the right SSID. Some routers use the same SSID for both connections and your Quest could automatically switch on you. The easiest way to avoid this happening this is to ensure they use a unique SSID like SnowShoe-5ghz and SnowShoe-2ghz.

Also, get yourself a WiFi Analyzer app and verify your router isn't using the same channel (or overlapping) as one of your neighbors WiFi access points. If they are it'll reduce your available bandwidth and increase the latency which typically results in poor AirLink performance.

The technical details are that you want 5ghz WiFi5 (AC1200 - 876Mbps max speeds) or WiFi6 using 80mhz (or larger) channels.

Indeed, already got them from the initial offer when I signed up with them.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

is this the one? Thanks!

> in densely populated areas

An easy way to determine what channels are cleanest in your location is a wifi analyser app on your phone.

When I got my Windstream router I changed the default wifi name it came with, somthing like "WIN_" followed by some random numbers that's printed on a label on the side of the unit, to something easier to remember, like "MyWifi". Then when I set up my TCL TV, I was able to pick that same "MyWifi" from a list of all the SSIDs the TV was able to see. It sounds like your TV and other devices aren't seeing the wifi access point your Windstream router is creating?

If you have an Android phone or tablet, have you ever tried the Wifi Analyzer app? It can show you what wifi access points are visible in your location, maybe your devices are trying to connect to one of your neighbor's instead.

Have you tried changing the channel of your home Wifi network? Use a cell phone app like Wifi Analyzer to see what channel everyone's broadcasting on and adjust so they don't overlap as much. (Ideally you want to be four channels away from anyone else, but 2 or 3 will do in a pinch.)

Speeds advertised are always theoretical maximum.

There are literally hundreds of factors interfering with your WiFi... Is your neighbor running his microwave?

Get a Wifi analyzer for your phone and see how much of a storm is around you.

Here is one really good for Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Not sure of how much more help I will be able to offer.

But if you can provide the exact Brand Names and model numbers of your phone and your Wifi Router, then maybe someone here can look and see what might be the problem.

Also, you might look into installing a Wifi Network scanning app onto your phone and see what channels the Router is broadcasting on and other settings.

For Android/Google Play devices, I like using - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

Have you tried the "Synchronise 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz Settings" set off (you'll need to rename the SSID)?

This might help with interference, but generally doesn't particularly.

Also, check you aren't using the same wifi channel as any neighbours and change as needed. You can use an app such as WiFi Analyzer to check.

Failing that, buying a 5Ghz USB wifi adaptor or else hardwire/use Powerline are the only solutions available to you.

teško mi je ovako reći, jer ne znam što je uzrok slabe brzine, ne postoji one-size-fits-all rješenje.. evo ti par prijedloga i stvari koje prije moram znati, prouči pa mi javi:

- koliko je korisnika wifija

- koja je udaljenost od routera, koliko zidova je između itd..

- skini wifi analyzer za mobitel i pogledaj koliko je mreža oko tebe na istim bandovima

- nađi model routera i napiši mi koji je, i koje wifi standarde podržava, npr. 801.11ac

Not much there, I'm afraid. You can't tell if the channels you're using are congested just by the number, you have to look at what other routers in your area are using. I use this Android app which gives a picture of each competing network and the part of the spectrum it occupies, so you can pick the "most open" channel. I don't know if an app like that is possible on iOS -- after posting the above, I had a quick search around to see if the information I get from Android is available on iOS, and I saw a lot of complaints that not only is the actual link speed not displayed, they don't even expose that information for 3rd party apps to look at, so it's not possible to find it out at all.

It's not the end of the world, though. Even if you don't have an easy way to tell which channel(s) are the least congested, you could still try testing different channels manually and seeing if one of them results in a better Remote Play experience.

First you said it was projecting the photos without the time etc. Then in your reply you said the chromecast isn't available to cast to. Try using a wifi analyzer app, chromecast won't work without internet.

Your ping is WAY too high (Spiking at over a second there)

&#x200B;

Can you post a couple of pictures of where exactly your hub is on the bot? Also, install a wifi monitor on your phone (I use called "Wifi Analyzer") that should give you an idea how crazy the noise is around you, and what channel you may have a better time on

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en&amp;gl=US

maybe this app will work, basically there are 1-11 channels which are about 20MHz wide, so yeautai channel ma dhereai le use garyo bhane interference dherai huncha ani speed/lag huncha thalcha, aba afno area ko most used channel tyo app le thapau then choose a channel between 1-11 in your router page and update it, this reduces lag/speed by significant amount.

Tem esse aplicativo para Android que ajuda a perceber isso que é o dono mesmo que está usando o cartão.

Pode ser que voce tenha que usar 1 wifi em cada andar.

Antes de comprar wifi mede o sinal em varios pontos da casa usando o app wifi analyzer. Vai andando com o celular e ao mesmo tempo recolocando a antena wifi, e anotando os pontos cegos.

Não ligue muitos PCs que demandem alta velocidade nas portas LAN do modem porque esses aparelhos são péssimos pra isso. Puxa 1 cabo do modem pro switch e liga todo mundo nele (wifi, pc, servidor).

E não compre switch baratinho. O motivo é que o gibabit anunciado é da soma de todas as portas. O certo é 1 gigabit por porta.

Tem esse aplicativo para Android que ajuda a perceber isso que é o que eu imaginei sobre o 2,4 e o sinal. Por exemplo, o próprio Reddit não tem o por que se fizer isso realmente, eles não tem mais qualquer configuração além do WDS.

Here's the analyzer I've used in the past:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US&amp;gl=US

The devices are shown as a colored bell chart centered around the transmit channel.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_GB&amp;gl=US

This can help you detect some WiFi channel collisions.

I'm "happy" to read everything is slower now, that makes malware less likely.

Still, this doesn't let me "go".

Is there maybe a lot of WiFi traffic which gets in the way? Some apps like

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Can help with finding a less busy spot in the spectrum..

What are the wifi networking devices being used?
Typically 5GHz should be fine at that distance even going through a few walls (Maybe 2-3 bars on a lower end networking card).
If the walls are thicker, maybe go for the 2.4GHz signal, it's usually stronger and provides a better overall signal, though the issue that arises for some is the speed.
If you have a cell phone, log into your network and try an app to analyze network traffic to see if there's an overlap/interference between nearby networks. WiFi Analyzer works, which could be the issue. Simple fix is usually changing the networks channel, if that's the issue.

Download the app and watch this video.

I don't think I've ever seen that before!

Yes, that is exactly what I'm looking for.

I've used apps like Wifi Analyzer on Android before.

The question "Atheros QCA9377 working at low speed" doesn't have an accepted answer. The answer by Elder Geek is the one with the highest score of 1:

>Research indicates that the information available on that interface is minimal however, It appears from your pastebin output that firmware is failing to load and no channel is getting configured. Since the QCA9377 supports it you might try iw which is a &quot;new&quot; nl80211 based CLI configuration utility for wireless devices. It supports all new drivers that have been added to the kernel recently. The old tool iwconfing, which uses Wireless Extensions interface, is deprecated and it&#39;s strongly recommended to switch to iw and nl80211. > >You might start by insuring that there is no stronger signal than yours on the frequency/channel you intend to use (and if so pick a less crowded one) I&#39;ve found the android app [Wifi Analyzer][2] useful in determining what the best channel to use in a specific area is. Having made this determination you can continue with configuring your router to that channel and then wireless as well with iw Documentation is available [here.] [1] > >You can get further useful information by getting station statistics against a peer > >If you want to get specific statistics against a peer your station is communicating with you can use the following: > > >sudo iw dev wlp3s0 station get <peer-MAC-address> >In the case of a STA the above &lt;peer-MAC-address&gt; would be the MAC address of your AP (router). Where wlp3s0 is your wireless device which matches to your pastebin output of wlp3s0: renamed from wlan0 > > >You can use iw to specify specific Tx rates and Tx power as well which might be quite useful under the circumstances. I might also try turning off power saving for the interface. You can check it with iw dev wlp3s0 get power_save > >If it&#39;s on you can turn it off with sudo iw dev wlp3s0 set power_save off > >[1]: http://linuxwireless.org/en/users/Documentation/iw/ > >[2]: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;amp;hl=en

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If you have a separate modem and router, the best thing to do is likely to move your router somewhere more central. The cable between them can pretty much be as long as you want. Cat5e (which is what you mostly likely have) is rated for 100 yards for gigabit speeds.

Other tips for improving wifi speeds:

• use 5Ghz instead of 2.4GHz
• Use an app like Wifi Analyzer to pick which channel you use. Any neighboring networks on the same (or close) channels will degrade your connection.
• When picking a spot for the router, have someone move it around while you monitor the signal strength in your room. Small changes in placement can be important.

For Android, try this or this Not sure on iOs as I don't use it.

Unless you're using a cloud PC your internet doesn't affect AirLink. It's all a result the quality of your local network/WiFi.

If other devices are using your WiFi then you have to share bandwidth. So if somebody is watching Netflix while you play or even if your phone is just randomly checking for email, updates, etc it can affect your performance.

You'll also want to use a WiFi analyzer application to make sure your neighbors WiFi isn't interfering with yours.

Lastly, sometimes it's just a crappy router and you just need to replace it or buy a second one dedicated to VR use.

My area, so I might offer some free tools:

Install this app on your phone: Wifi Analyzer

With this one you can scan wifi signals in the vicinity. Walk around the house slowly (stop for 20s at every 5m²) with your cellphone open on scanning. You can detect even hidden wifi signals with it. If you find one signal that's suspicious, focus on it and try to find it using the signal strength as a proximity measurement.

For hidden mics and more advanced cameras, I recommend buying a second hand RF detector. If you have a friend who works with either high tension electricity or with telecom, ask if he can borrow you one. Don't trust RF detector apps, 99,9% of cellphones does not have an RF detector and will "infer" values instead of actually measuring them.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US&amp;gl=US

Check if levels are very different, many things could happen including issues with internal antennas.

Channels? have a look on the play store you can get some WIFI tools that will show you what is your best frequency.

So you can't ping it at all when it's connected via wifi? what IP is it getting in diagnostics? or from your router?