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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Network:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Network:
Fast.com
OpenWrt
Wireshark
GNS3
Speedtest by Ookla
Hacker News
ZeroTier
Pi-hole
Cloudflare
GRCs DNS Benchmark
PingPlotter
WinMTR
OPNsense
BiniSoft Windows Firewall Control
Moonlight
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/Network:
Wifi Analyzer
Cell Signal Monitor - mobile networks monitoring
Speedify VPN - Unlimited Secure VPN
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To put it simply: You pay a Registrar (GoDaddy, etc.) for your domain name, and they put it in a database that feeds the DNS servers.
It is much, much more complicated than that in reality. https://www.cloudflare.com/learning/dns/what-is-dns/
Is there a MAC address labeled anywhere on the device? If so, you can search the OUI (first 6 characters) and will provide you with the vendor it's registered to.
https://www.wireshark.org/tools/oui-lookup.html
Use the above link to plug in the OUI.
Usually ARM or MIPS. You can find some information on the OpenWRT Table of Hardware, not for all devices obviously.
What you describe is exactly what I am doing right now in a hotel with the device linked below, except I don't bother with the MAC address cloning. In this place I have to sign onto the WiFi network with a web page. But there is a page in the GUI for MAC address cloning. I chose it mainly because it runs OpenWRT instead of closed proprietary firmware.
https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF
You need access points.
Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range - Wireless Access Point - 802.11 B/A/G/n/AC (UAP-AC-LR-US),White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0BEGMHNAB0PRTSZC5VFJ
No, this won't fix your problem. This print server is for using printers with USB interfaces on the network.
I'm guessing the desktop is not on the network? You might want to consider getting a WiFi adapter for your desktop, and then network share the printer. This does mean you have to keep your desktop on.
If not, you probably need a WiFi to Ethernet bridge like this:
https://www.amazon.com/BrosTrend-600Mbps-Adapter-Wireless-WNA016/dp/B0118SPFCK
I've not actually used one of these, so don't take this as an endorsement of this product.
Don't assume your computer supports it. You have to check if your ethernet port can.
There are routers that have 10G ports, but then you'd also need a 10g switch if you need more than one 10g connection. As you can see. They are not cheap.
> If I was to purchase the Asus AC1300 (AMAZON link) would I be able to use it as both a wireless and wired access point at the same time?
Yes
I'd suggest picking up a cheap cable tester. It'll let you know if the wires are ordered correctly and if any one cable within the ethernet cable isn't getting a signal.
You can go high end but this probably will work for a one time problem: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZXYI1U
This picture confuses me so much....so you can see the blue cables connected into the combo box but where do the other ends run....
Do they run to the rooms....so if they did would this make the combo box some kinda patch panel...if so where to the cables terminate on the other side of the panel....
I would Run a ethernet cable from the router to the ethernet port in the room this should lead back to the panel. Put a small switch inside in here to connect the rest of the cables to it as long as it makes sense it that box lol
I would get a cheap cable toner so you can follow the cable with the 'wand' it will bleep on contact/bear the cable connected to the toner box.
This would help you map it out and label stuff to save your brain in the future...
The answers stated here are all possible reasons for poor signal strength. If you want to understand in better detail the signal quality, maybe find an Cell App / WiFi App for your phone that can give you a much better accuracy reading.
The solution might be to get a repeater.
WiFi runs on a different wavelength than Cellular, so you would need a repeater for each in order to boost the reception in your room.
Start by mapping out your home to find the dead zones to better understand what you are dealing with.
ExpressVPN, NordVPN. Tunnelbear also seems to be kinda promising. It depends on your budget, but I would go with one of the first two. The prices are in the same range for either of them, up to 7 dollars/month. I saw that NordVPN has an offer on a 3 years plan, 2.99 per month. My advice would be testing their service for one month and if you're happy, go with them. I think they all have a "money back" policy for 30 days, if you're not happy with the service.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC750-WiFi-Range-Extender/dp/B07N1WW638
I used this setup for my PC while i was overseas.
-Router connected with wifi to this TP link repeater.
-The Ethernet cable from the repeater port to the desktop
The router is this. Yes, both phones are getting the same speed. I'm using speedtest.net. The PC is getting 90 to 100 mbps.
Rudimentary networking:
Verizon > Gateway/Router in your house > Your own router/switch
The router Verizon installed likely provides a wifi signal in addition to the wired. Think of a switch as a distributor of the wired connection
If the previous homeowner left a switch, then you'll benefit from a tool like this https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV501-851-Ethernet-Locator/dp/B085LPN71C to tone out what port corresponds with which outlet.
If you don't have a switch or one wasn't left behind, then you'll need to buy one with enough ports to support the number of connections you want to extend access to.
In either case, find the LAN connection from the Verizon router and plug the network cable into the LAN port on your switch. Plug/pull additional network cables from the panel/wall to the switch according to which rooms they're connected.
Good luck!
Dynamic DNS, mentioned in one of the other comments, will allow you to access the router via a hostname that is updated when the external IP Address changes. The best way to do this is if your router supports it, otherwise you will need another device running all the time.
The real question to me is what do you want to access? Do you just want to access the router, or are there other devices you want to access, such as cameras or environmental monitors? If you do want to access internal devices, it is FAR better to use a VPN than opening ports. The entire Internet is constantly being scanned for vulnerabilities by people wanting to take advantage of insecure devices. There is no security in obscurity. And new vulnerabilities in IoT devices such as cameras and sensors are constantly being found and exploited.
If you do want access to internal devices, the best way is to use a router that is capable of being a VPN server, along with dynamic DNS. You would be able to connect to the router with your own unique DNS name, and connecting would require a password, and then you would have full access to all your devices.
If your modem doesn't support both VPN server and dynamic DNS (DDNS), you could either replace it with one that does, or, as you mentioned, use a Raspberry Pi. If you use a Pi, you will have to open one port from the router to the Pi. The Pi could run both the VPN server and the dynamic DNS client.
One thing about Raspberry Pis - they are silly expensive right now due to global chip shortages. Used micro form factor PCs are nearly as small as a Pi, and can be HALF the price right now. You can run Linux and VPN software on them just as you do with a Pi.
It’s a router only, I’ve used this before in other off campus student style apartment complexes without issue.
How do I connect my router to the WAN/internet? It’s plugged into the wall via Ethernet
I believe this is my model: https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-WNDR4500-100PAS-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00HEX851C
Catb - Before You Ask
2 - Try to find an answer by searching the Web.
Three search ideas and tips:
* OpenVPN - popular VPN software and protocol
* WireGuard - new kid on the block, seems easier
* Include "server" in your search terms, you don't want to pay for NordVPN which supports WireGuard and OpenVPN clients. You want to install your own server at home for free.
If you can't get ethernet tethering working on your phone, you could try extending your usb connection over ethernet. You can use an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC/
You could just do it the lazy way and get an adapter like this.
Have a look at the changes in V5, they've simplified a lot of the control into the GUI, including local DNS records. https://pi-hole.net/2020/05/10/pi-hole-v5-0-is-here/#page-content. It's much more than blocking ads now.
Depending on which sites you visit and how your using the internet, you can probably safely assume 99% of what you're doing is over HTTPS and therefore the *contents* of what's being transmitted are pretty secure.
That said, I think the easiest thing for you to protect yourself from any would be snoopers is to buy a good vpn service and connect to that. NordVPN, etc.
CDN is what you're thinking of. And your results to fast.com which is netflix CDN is going to depend on how far away you are from a CDN node. So if it is in your local ISPs network speeds should be pretty good, if they have to go out to the internet? then ymmv.
Try use Cloudflare DNS instead of your ISP. Either Change for only your PC or set on your ISP router as the default DNS server under DHCP
Cloudflare DNS server: 1.1.1.1 https://www.cloudflare.com/dns.
Found my problem. Apparently when my Dad and Uncle ran wire thru our walls years ago they used Cat5 cable, not Cat5e. Cat5 caps at 100Mbps. I just ran new Cat5e from the router to my computer and now I'm getting the speeds a lot closer to what I should be getting. https://www.speedtest.net/result/9241423566
Looks now i have a project to work on during this Stay-at-Home.
the only potential cause is ad networks. some ads stream on inactive tabs and some sites could be configured to continuously reload ads.
you can solve this with a pihole
outside that, the content of the page is downloaded and stored locally as others have mentioned.
youd be surprised how many queries hit the ad network.
my buddy has 8 house on his block sharing his internet, and forces them through the pihole first, it's quite literally 1/3 of the dns requests his network sees.
couple that your shitty internet, there is a small potential this might be contributing.
So, my concern is (based on the description on Amazon) that only one device can “be on the Internet” at one time.
In your case: either the CC reader or the computer can be connected and powered-on. If that’s not a limitation for you: then your setup will work.
If that is a limitation for you, look at a 5-port switch. That will allow both to be actively connected.
A range extender might apply some "magic" to overcome the limitation with wifi, such as a relay.
https://openwrt.org/docs/guide-user/network/wifi/relay_configuration
If you can connect to the router using a cable you could probably just use the WAN port to connect to the house network. If you want to connect just by wifi that might be tricky with consumer level hardware.... If you're feeling adventurous you could try a cheap router and replace the firmware with something like openwrt?
Shotgun/brain dump approach, with the suspicion that something is redirecting/blocking your DNS requests:
Are the clients using DHCP or static addresses? If DHCP, I would assume they are getting DNS Address from the modem? Have you tried a static address with manually configured DNS address just to make sure you really are trying the DNS server you think you are?
Try DNS-over-HTTP from Firefox or Chrome? This would ensure that the DNS request is going to who you think it is going to. Test with https://www.cloudflare.com/ssl/encrypted-sni/
Have you experienced this problem with only one device connected/powered on?
Do you have any devices using a wired connection, and if so are they also having problems? If you don't have any wired connections, maybe try one?
Are there any errors or other odd things being logged in the router? Anything suspicious on the network monitoring pages?
Maybe try Wireshark to see exactly what is being returned from DNS?
https://www.verizon.com/about/sites/default/files/fios-quantum-router-user-guide-2018.pdf
Edit: Maybe one off-the-wall suggestion - set the MTU slightly smaller in the router, say 1480 instead of 1500, or even 1450.
Sounds like you need to read up on NAT, and port forwarding. You have to understand both to be able to make this work.
First of all, it's good that you know your local network. I'm assuming your network subnet is 192.168.0.0/24 - which means you can have 254 IP address on this range. This is a 'private' range. This is meant to only be used within homes, businesses, etc. The routers that make up the internet will not forward packages to any address in this range. Example: If you have a server with PUBLIC IP address of 192.168.0.107, no client will be able to get to it.
When you browse to https://ipinfo.io/ip (or run curl https://ipinfo.io/ip), what you get is your PUBLIC IP address. I assume you do not have a business-grade internet line, which means you get one IP address, and there is no guarantee that it will stay static, because it's assigned automatically from a pool of IPs.
Now the question is: If you can have 254 IP addresses in the private range, and you only have 1 public IP, how does this work? Let's say your laptop, phone, AppleTV and smart fridge all have different private IP addresses,
You have an internet line from an ISP. I assume it's not a business-grade line that you have.
You could install something like OpenWRT on that router and have much more capabilities ... but your switch sounds to be hardware-broken. Since it's a non-managed switch, I'd say just get another one.
Try using snappy driver installer origin to search for newer drivers. It is an open source program that uses the BitTorrent protocol to share driver packs. Don't download all of the packs, just get the ones for your computer. It maybe a couple of gigs.
>Fortigate firewall
thanks for reply. I found this one, the used prices almost 50 USD.
<strong>https://monosnap.com/file/jrD3AX6jchcrH640tPUX5PsxAZQAYt</strong>
is it suitable for small ofiice ?
access synology from WAN at 1Gpps
office usage (only a few office workers)
to us main priotry to protect synology from WAN (unfortunately Webdav is open)
What do you think?
What do you think?
Might be worth considering/having a look at Domotz as well? We do configuration management amongst many other features. (remote access, SNMP, remote power management, network monitoring etc.) You can backup the running and startup configuration files of your network switches and we also track configuration changes over time and notify you about it. Configuration issues can also be identified and resolved by restoring previously saved files. This helps centralize network configuration across any teams. Very soon, we'll also be releasing more configuration management for firewalls. Let me know if you have any questions at al!
Whatever is handing out DHCP leases should show you that stuff. Something like Fing might be useful if you don't have access to that https://www.fing.io/download-free-ip-scanner-desktop-linux-windows-osx/
https://sourceforge.net/projects/winmtr/
Get that. Run it for a while (like 1k+ packets) to Discord's IP, or just some random IP outside your network - e.g. 1.1.1.1
discord.com. 220 IN A 162.159.136.232
discord.com. 220 IN A 162.159.128.233
discord.com. 220 IN A 162.159.135.232
discord.com. 220 IN A 162.159.138.232
discord.com. 220 IN A 162.159.137.232
Is the packet loss occurring within your ISP's network? Within yours? Outside of your ISP's network?
Granted, ICMP tests are the best when trying to figure out packet loss - enterprise-grade routers don't prioritize ICMP responses. They have more important things to do like actually routing packets - but it's something.
https://sourceforge.net/projects/winmtr/ Winmtr is a nice graphical hop list, the hop that has poor performance it the problem.
Just put www.google.com as the destination and leave it running when the system stops performing look for the bad performing hop.
Try running https://www.pingplotter.com/products/free.html for a couple of days towards something like 1.1 it'll give you at least a clue on where the problem might be.
Could you try a different router?
https://www.quad9.net/ may be up your alley. They don't store your requests, although exceptions are made for any attack on their infrastructure.
The address that you would use would be 9.9.9.9. Pi-Hole isn't super easy to setup, if you don't have actual hardware to install it on, but in a perfect world, I would choose Pi-Hole with Quad9. That's what I use myself, but I'm a pretty technical guy.
Something to keep in mind when reading MTR is that a lot of the time, routers will have ICMP limiting, which is a security measure to stop DDOS attacks and it does also limit diagnostic traffic (ping, traceroute).
The small % packet loss towards the end that does not continue to the last hop indicates the packet loss is more likely to be ICMP limiting instead of 'real' packet loss.
Test 3 with 'No response from host' also indicates the owner of the router may totally restrict ICMP.
Ultimately this isn't that helpful in diagnosing your problem, so you probably want to keep a record of when these spikes occur - is there a pattern? Certain times of the day? Does it affect other applications? Then talk to your ISP.
Three to four times the speed for double the price seems fair, although that ATT gigabit looks like a better deal for ten times the speed for 2.5 times the price.
I have FIOS 980/880 for ~$105 a month, so that ATT deal is really nice by comparison.
As for whether you "need" or are likely to take advantage of the gigabit option, unless you download files regularly, the 100 Mbit plan will be more than enough for a single household. The gigabit option will only show its value if you have a lot of people using the internet all at once because few devices will be able to come close to those gigabit speeds on Wifi. (I have a wireless AX laptop and it regularly only pulls 400-500 Mbit downloads off fast.com, a wired connection would definitely be faster.)
If the router supports SNMP you can have a computer in your house poll the router for interface statistics. This will give you a baseline for internet usage. Though messing with SNMP can be a headache and you'll pay about $50-200 a year in power. You can try using "Thedude" from mikrotik to monitor the router if it supports SNMP. http://www.mikrotik.com/thedude Its pretty simple to use and is free. Another option is to get a smart switch or fully managed switch and connect internet modem to the switch then connect the router to that switch and use the built in monitoring... Though if your going to buy another device you might as well buy a router that supports inbuilt traffic monitoring.
You can do this one of two ways.
- You can port forward the internal website address to your external internet address.
- You can install something like Parsec on your home computer and remote to that so you can get to the site.
A note about port forwarding. You will need to know the external IP address of your home. This isnt super hard to get but it can be hard to keep up with. So you would need to look every day what your IP is just in case it changed. There is a way to get around this issue but it isnt exactly something you just "setup" if you dont know how to use a domain, and dynamic-DNS providers.
Just for the information on how this is done. You buy a domain on a place like namecheap.com (they are the best out there honestly) then on a computer/server on your home network you setup dynamic DNS with that domain. This will then give you the ability to type Thisismywebsite.com into the address bar and get to the dashboard your needing.
Get a proper encrypted VPN for example wireguard in which you tunnel whatever remote session you wish (remote desktop, vnc, ssh etc).
The protip is to do the encryption not in the box itself (that got the GPU etc) but in the network like a dedicated vpn box or such.
https://opnsense.org/ can be handy for such task.
Another more expensive setup is to use a KVM over IP which you protect with a proper encrypted VPN (such as wireguard). This way you are not dependent on what OS or software is being runned in your box with that GPU since the KVM over IP will hook directly onto the video output and forward keyboard and mouse to the remote client.
I use WFC to controll my Firewall to my likings.
Windows Firewall Control is a powerful tool which extends the functionality of Windows Firewall and provides new extra features which makes Windows Firewall better.
No, it's not a security risk. All a port forward does is put the burden of security on the exposed program. For older, unmaintained game software, this might be a problem, but the probability that anyone would discover and attack your server is pretty remote - especially if you don't run it 24/7.
Still, if you'd like to avoid port forwarding, I'd recommend ZeroTier. It's a VPN that's peer to peer, so absolute minimum latency for games. Your friends will need to install it themselves, but it's all GUI and no port forwarding is required.
That string is a IPv6 address.
That MAC address decodes to Chongqing Fugui Electronics Co.,Ltd. (https://www.wireshark.org/tools/oui-lookup.html). Their chips tend to be used in TVs, printers, Blu-Ray players in addition to many laptops.
A device really cannot "be connected" to a router without the router being aware of it - it will show up in it's connected device list.
Are you running an open wireless network?
What's connecting, and how do you know?
What is your router make and model? Most have some manner of firewall and could do much of what you want.
The best tools on a windows PC on a network with 50unknown things won't tell you much, unless those devices are unsecured.
Step 1)
You have all the MAC addresses. They are in your DHCP logs, and WiFi logs.
Go to https://www.wireshark.org/tools/oui-lookup.html and paste them all in to get some idea of the devices. Phones, PCs, whatever.
Log on your router. Turn on all the monitoring you can. You might need to turn on the firewall, but without blocking to get the full picture.
Secure your network. Since you have lots of unknown devices, it sounds like you have open WiFi. Lock that down and it should fix the problem.
I would (with your renter) sit down with your computer, an application like WireShark (https://www.wireshark.org/), and observe what traffic is on going across the network. From there you can talk about network policy and methods to curb the latency.
Stops processing and returns the specified code to a client. The non-standard code 444 closes a connection without sending a response header.
From here: https://nginx.org/en/docs/http/ngx_http_rewrite_module.html
Leave the router in the box where all the cables are. Get one or more "Access points" (boxes that just do WiFi) and plug them into the Ethernet jacks upstairs. You probably one need one or two at different ends of the house, or different floors.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Insight-Long-Range-management-warranty/dp/B01NCJGL9H/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=access+point&qid=1632593020&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
There are more and less expensive models, the main thing you probably should look at for home use is dual band, don't get something that just does 2.4Ghz.
And some Ethernet cables to connect the access points to the wall jacks.
Keep a ping up to your LAN GW and to your WAN GW and see if you are losing packets at ether point. Most likely the issue is going to be on the wireless connection to your ISP. ExpressVPN is going to be UDP so you might need more of a impact on any disconnects the with TCP connections such has normal web pages.
Is there a way to check where constant disconnects are coming from. I had a solid connection around 6 months ago. I started a few large file torrents. (nothing pirated) It seems since then my connection is all over the place. This is a diagram of what I have. I have checked all my cabling with a LAN tester. I cant get Mediacom to take me serious. I will just be working and internet will go down for like 15 to 30 seconds. If I use ExpressVPN it seems to happen a lot more often. Then it will come back up. Is there some software I can use to monitor and keep track of network uptime and downtime? I am not a complete new guy to tech but software is not my strong suit.
Ive installed this deco, in a lot of homes each node has 2 ports so you can expand with a switch. You set one deco up as the main and it is the controller, so you only need one pack supper simple. With unifi you need a dream machine(to act as the controller) and the access points, unifi makes a out door ap but it runs on 48v PoE and the rest runs on 24v PoE so you would have to get a PoE switch that does both(ubiquiti makes one and they recommend you use it)
Use hospitality aps. You can get them for most vendors. This is what I would use if money isn't an issue.
Aruba Instant On AP11D Access Point w uplink and 3 Local Ports | US Model | Power Source Included (R3J25A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VMT8WK5
My recommendation is to put in a Deco mesh system, not repeaters but access points. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Deco-Whole-Home-System/dp/B06WVCB862/ref=sr\_1\_1?dchild=1&keywords=deco+m5&qid=1628742858&sr=8-1.
To do this you would go from modem to Deco(set up as router) to switch. Each Deco has two ports data in and out. In the office you would put a Deco(set up as a AP) then plugged into a switch.
As I know, it is a dual band (Here is the ASIN: B085G5CDY7, https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B085G5CDY7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )
Right now, I am contacting with the Campus' IT Manager. Once I solve that problem, I hope it will work.
Klein Tools VDV226-110 Wire Crimper / Wire Cutter / Wire Stripper Pass-Thru Modular All-in-One Tool for Video, Telecom, Datacom and more https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGPQZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1KHRDP1YWPW8HTRJ53GJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the jack we use. You would typically use slice the jack on the cable, separate the pairs, and after sliding it in the jack and separating the wires, cut off the extra. We use Klein Tools snips, but any pair of scissors realistically works. Panduit has a tool that combines the two parts of the jack together, but you could also just press the two parts together by hand, provided you have enough leverage.
It depends on the specific MoCa adapter. Some have a coax-in and coax-out, some require a splitter. I personally use a pair of these.
There's a diagram of how it works in the description.
That patch panel is not capable of carrying Ethernet reliably.
You would need to remove the appropriate cables, attach RJ45 connectors, and probably add a small 5 port Ethernet switch to connect them together.
If you only need to connect two cables together, a small patch panel like this would work. You would need a punch-down tool to attach the cables, and a short Ethernet cable to connect the two ports together.
https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Q-AC1058-Network-Interface/dp/B078FLT5S3/ref=sr_1_18
In any case, be sure to research what color wires attach to which patch panel pins or RJ45 connector pins.
Yes I have done this. After taking my ISP's combined modem/router "gateway" and getting it into bridge mode, I connected it to this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and have been super happy with the result.
If you really need a physical KVM and also want to support dual monitors, the following should meet your needs. They have several options, so find the one that best matches your monitors and number of ports.
If you simply need to connect remotely, every OS has options. Ex. Windows RDP, even multiple monitor support on Windows 10.
You can also check out a small vpn client to go between your Xbox and current router. Google . I use AT&T 4g as my primary internet and they squash iTunes and YouTube videos. I put one of these between my appleTV and network as connect it to IPVanish. Works well. There’s even a little switch you can configure to disable and enable the vpn. I need to disable it for Netflix.
If you're just looking for a basic unmanaged switch, the Netgear GS316 has 16-ports: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B01AX8XHRQ
I’ve had good experience with TP-Link in-line adapters, you can get this TPLink Wifi extender for about $60, but it only provides max 600mbps speed over the line, and 300mbps 2.4ghz wifi. TP-Links Powerline system utilizes your existing lines to your outlet so you don’t have to worry about cables.
They do provide 1gb models and 5/2.4ghz but I’m too lazy to find those links, you can also look at googles mesh system (link) which can cover 4500 square feet with the 2020 3 pack for around $200.
You probably just have a 10/100 mb switch and not a gigabit switch. If you're not paying for more than 100mb Internet from your ISP, it won't slow down your Internet speed, but will slow down connections on your LAN.
The solution is to buy a gigabit switch. The 5 port ones on Amazon start around $19 like this one from Netgear
The post from /u/dcwrite has a link to BestBuy for a switch.
When buying a switch, get anything, just look for something that says "gigabit" or "10/100/1000". Count the number of connections you have in the closet and get a switch that has the same number or greater ports.
Here is one on amazon for a nice price -> https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6/
> an ethernet cable running from the router to the wall
Is that the only cable connected to your router? What make/model is your router?
Hmm, to be fair, just about any unmanaged switch would do, regardless of brand. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a non-gigabit switch these days actually. That doesn't matter though, the switch will revert to 100 mbit via an autonegotiation mode.
A quick search on amazon for a gigabit switch, for example this:
Seriously, just get this. Cheaper than any fiber + transceiver or fiber + sfp setup. Fast and super reliable. My buddy uses them for his wireless isp in central Oregon. At 5-10km distances...
Lemme know if that link doesnt work. Sheeit, I'll even help you set it up.
NanoStation AC loco NS-5ACL-US Loco5ac 5GHz 802.11ac airMAX CPE Radio 450Mbps Wireless Access Point (2-Pack) with PoE POE-24-7W-G Included (2-Pack
I think you're confused incoming and outgoing traffic. NordVPN is for hiding your identity for outgoing traffic. If you want to connect to a host on your internal network, you have to set up a VPN server to handle incoming traffic. I think the Merlin custom firmware has OpenVPN built in so you can use that. Also, you may be seeing performance decrease for a couple of reasons. There might be a slow route to NordVPN's endpoint. Try connecting to some other locations and see if it helps. Another reason could be that home grade routers like Asus are not intended to support VPN connections with stock firmware. So, they lack the capability to do encryption in hardware.
FYI: NordVPN supports both IKEv2/IPsec and OpenVPN protocols. Many routers do support advanced rules such as you're asking, to set a different outbound route depending on the source ; but not typical consumer-oriented devices.
A solid recommendation would depend on so many things. For starters, what type of "modem" do you need? DSL? Dialup?
Hi, thanks.
The lagg/freeze can come if I have played the game a while, and meeting heavy encounters. Feels like it happens when it is a lot of information at the same time. I will run a WinMTR report when that happens. I have seen packageloss at 50-60% on some of the hops but I did not save them as text files when I ran the software. I have also tried a VPN software (ExpressVPN) that internet told me will fix lag in some games, but I'm not sure if that has helped. Also tried my 4G on my phone, and still there was lagg and the same kind of 5sec freeze and then go on again.
Then you’ll only need a VPN service like ExpressVPN, Private internet access or whatever service you want. But before you buy the VPN service make sure IPSec or PPTP VPNs are supported ( most commen would be IPSec ) then at the support page or somewhere on the internet should be a tutorial of how to set it up according to the VPN service
Thanks for helping me out! I actually didn't consider if my ISP is throttling. I figured there'd be enough laws in the EU that would prevent this from happening. I ran Internet Health Test (website) that would supposedly indicate throttling if you're getting varying speeds, and this was the case for me. I only ran it 4-5 times yesterday so it should be taken with a grain of salt I suppose. I actually have IPVanish, so I'll test with that somewhere tomorrow or so, to see if there's improvement over VPN.
I'm going to call my ISP again regardless and ask them to check the lines or test with another modem. I'm kind of afraid they'll come check the speeds during the day and tell me there is nothing wrong though :(
> I do use AirVPN with the Eddie client
In what software, query or screen are you seeing those names? Hostname is just the first node, those are hostnames with domain names. The vpn in "ravpn" makes me suspicious. Any chance you are getting these names from reverse DNS anywhere? Reverse DNS is often not properly cleaned up when IP Address blocks change hands.
Best you can probably do short of calling the ISP back is to buy a fiber cleaner and hit all the cables and ports. Something like this, but make sure you get the right size/adaptor type:
I recommend for home networks is Ubiquiti’s AmpliFi setup. It’s not the cheapest thing around, but it’s solid.
Eero is the second one I recommend. I haven’t experienced it, but from what I’ve read it’s a good system.
Google WiFi works, as well.
To answer your other question, you can mix and match, but sticking with a single brand helps with continuity of investigating issues. Vendors design TL work with themselves. That’s not to say they won’t play well with other, but they’re designed with themselves in mind.
Things to watch for: * 802.11ac or 802.11ax (better known as WiFi 6) * Dual-Band and Multiple Radio. AVOID single radio. * Backhaul on different frequency from client servicing - not doing this causes bottlenecks. Without going nerdy: avoid single band APs. * Features that you desire. Home networking is fairly open. Get what you think you want; don’t get what you don’t need.
Buy a "travel router" or build one, possibly using a Raspberry Pi. I would suggest one already running OpenWRT or some similar distribution so you have control of the software. Google "raspberry pi travel router". Having a dual band radio is good - one for the uplink, one for your devices.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GL-AR750S-Ext-almacenamiento-preinstalado-Cloudflare-incluidos/dp/B07GBXMBQF/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-drs1_0 - this is one of the more expensive devices with a lot of features. Note that processor speed could matter depending on the uplink available speed - a slow processor and a fast uplink WiFi may throttle your performance.
There are many others.
Edit: You could even run PiHole software on some of them (or if you build it) to have centralized ad blocking for all your devices.
/r/rasberrypi , /r/DDWRT , r/pihole/ and others
it's actually 3 as one is onboard. yes, it's not a hardware tap because you are bridging the traffic between the two nonaddressed interfaces.
the minimum price for a 'real' hardware tap is probably prohibitive for personal use but I saw a couple of projects along these lines: https://www.amazon.com/midBit-Technologies-LLC-100-1000/dp/B0175EODCE you probably aren't going to 'build' anything like this
The idea with using a Pi as a network tap is that you do the wiresharking/inspecton/recording directly on the Pi. You don't send the data anywhere else. And it doesn't have to be a Pi, it can be any box with multiple NICs. A used small form factor Dell or HP office PC with a four port PCIe card can be very versatile
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Optiplex-7040-SFF-i7-6700-Windows/dp/B07N1TZP4B/ref=sr_1_3
This is as close to a cheap router I'd trust at all.
I've had TP Link routers before they are..decent. This one seems to have enough features to get you buy. Whether the implementation of Wi-Fi 6 is baked enough on it or any Wi-Fi 6 devices you might have, and the nature of your RF environment, you might actually get those speeds.
Best of luck with it.
Yes, get a small gigabit switch like this one and then buy a wireless access point to extend the signal. Set it up with the same SSID and password as your main wifi device, and plug your new AP via it's LAN port
No advantage at all. You want something wired. When I say “wireless access point” , its a wired device but extends your wireless range. Look for something like this
It’s just extending your network, and allowing access wirelessly. This does not take place of Your router, you will still need that.
Any advantage to the wireless repeaters vs. something that plugs into Ethernet?
Modem -> WiFi Router -> Switch -> four wall connections
> And if so what would be some examples.
An enterprise-grade device. Without worrying about support, you can get some decent deals.
But, with these, you have to know what you're doing, not only in terms of general networking knowledge, but product specific knowledge.
That's a decent router/firewall, though, for the price. I used it up until I was able to get my hands on a PA-220.
I think you are looking for these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J4YS51F/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Low+Voltage+Mounting+Bracket&qid=1595902476&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFCSDhOMjlHVEFLMlYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA0MzU5MzRHSkpQTFowQTZHWVQm... and recommend using this to cut the hole for the jack:\ https://www.amazon.com/METAKOO-Trimming-Gardening-Wallboards-Standard/dp/B07WZRH61Z/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=drywall+saw&qid=1595902499&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFKTTJPSFVMWU1FWVUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSW...
At the very least, you need something like this tester which will give you continuity per pin.
You could rent a real tester that'd certify crosstalk and all the other elements, but I'd start with the basics and see if that's good enough.
I use this one off Amazon. Gig switch hardware has been around a LONG time. No need to get fancy right now. If you foresee needing more ports get a 16, or put an 8 in your main panel and an 8 in each room.
I can help offer any advice about placement if you need.
So you can buy a little 5 port switch,Netgear on Amazon example, and use that instead of your 2nd router.
Below is a very generic example as I don't know what routers you are using and can't get into step by step guide.
Or on the main router do a setup like this:
DHCP Server: 2nd Router IP set statically to 192.168.128.x or whatever your ip scheme is on first router
Firewall: External(internet side) Port (whatever you are forwarding) to Internal Port (same port number your 2nd router is expecting on it's external side) of 2nd router(either it's host name or IP depending on the setup)
On your 2nd router: DHCP Server: Raspberry Pi IP set Statically to 172.16.1.x or whatever your ip scheme on 2nd router
Firewall: External(coming from 1st router) Port (whatever you are forwarding) to internal Port of the Pi
With this setup it can become easily confusing for a human and can easily become a mess networking wise with possible mismatched IPs or even worse issues due to double nating.
The above double router issue can become even more confusing trying to troubleshoot if you use the same IP Range and subnet for both LAN sides of the 2 routers.
Ideally you would purchase the above switch, I suggest Netgear over TP-Link (the netgear I linked is 1 USD more expensive at the moment), that way you only have to do one port forward from the main internet connected router.
USB WiFi adapters with large antennas are less than $25 at Amazon. You might want to consider that instead of a cable. This can provide the PC with a WiFi connection.
If you want to go a cable route, look up "Windows Internet Connection Sharing" and use that on your laptop. I have not done it myself (at least not recently) but I am pretty sure you can share a WiFi connection to a wired connection. The one drawback is that this almost certainly introduces what is called "Double NAT", assuming your router is also performing NAT. Outbound web surfing, and some types of VPN have no problem with double NAT, you may just have to try it and see.
Edit: Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-1200Mbps-TECHKEY-Wireless-Network-300Mbps/dp/B07J65G9DD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=usb+wifi&qid=1584724214&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A3KHUM65I50XQR
Unfortunately Amazon is overwhelmed with orders, and it may take a few days longer than usual for it to arrive. Places like Best Buy and Staples probably have them, if they are open around you.
Sorry I miss read that. So RJ11 won’t work. But depending on the age of the home it could be Cat5e cable and you could just replace the connectors on each end.
Or you can hit a local electric supplier and pick up some there.
Devices that run DD-WRT can run the OpenVPN client. Doing what you describe is one of the features of "travel routers" that are useful in Hotels where you don't have access to the main WiFi device.
They range from $20 on up. https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF
You can do this.
Some advise:
- Set the routers into "AP Mode" so the "router" features are disabled (DHCP, firewall, uPnP, etc)
- Use the same SSID AND password across all routers
- Adjust transmit power accordingly so one AP is not overpowering another nearby
- Use a WiFi heatmap app / software to fine tune your power and channel settings
Just an FYI - The speeds advertised on the outside of boxes is the theoretical maximum on paper. Even with the most ideal environment, and the best quality hardware and perfectly coded software, you will never reach that value.
You need to verify wired connection speed, so you have something to compare against.
Then try retesting wireless at different locations away from the router. Try using some kind of scientific method to help limit the the amount of variation between tests.
Also, get a wireless diagnostic app for your phone to verify your signal strength at various locations. You want a strong RSSI value.
Is the desktop wireless also? That seems low.
Oh well, never thought about an IT man who would work with security for our mid-size business company! Right now we have a NordVPN Teams, and it their services are ok, but after reading this Medium article, I think, I will search for more information about how IT specialist could help us with security protection. I know, our company will grow, and it wouldn’t be a great decision to stay only with a Virtual Private Network.
Buy fiber with the ends on it already, get single strand SFPs and use single mode, you can pull extra fiber and utilize it if any strands ever break. LC is the only way to go, they are small enough you should be able to eek them through anything.
SFP+ bxd bxu make a pair. https://www.amazon.com/QSFPTEK-Transceivers-Single-Mode-SFP-10G-BXD-I-SFP-10G-BXU-I/dp/B07QLKDZJH/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=10gb+sfp%2B+bxd&qid=1569376342&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Those would be fine, these APs from TP-Link are also good value.