What are /r/GoogleWiFi's favorite Products & Services?

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Wow, literally every comment in here so far is wrong...

Yes, OP, you can use the coax in your house for networking. What you’re looking for are MoCA adapters. I use them for backhaul between my pucks and they’re just as fast as Ethernet.

The only situation where they won’t work is if you have Satellite TV. DVB-T and MoCA don’t get along. If you have cable TV, though, you’ll be fine.

That's been the price on Amazon for some time. The price at BestBuy is just $1 more.

Costco has a much better deal ($299) for a 4-pack on a price per unit/puck basis, but it is members-only.

Check for pre-wired coax drops. If you have a drop near your workstation, then perhaps this could help.

I have beed using for years to wire Workstations and WiFi pucks in the back of the house - very stable - very fast.

Actiontec MoCA 2.5 | 2.5 Gbps Ethernet Over Coax.

Google never would, their entire business model is selling ads which is why they have refused to allow plugins on mobile Chrome. Thank god for Brave Browser, benefits of Chrome with adblocking built in.

If your looking for network wide ad blocking though Pihole will be your best friend. I use it with my Onhub mesh network and it's awesome. https://pi-hole.net/

I use a couple of these and they work flawlessly:

TRENDnet 8-Port Gigabit GREENnet Switch, Ethernet Network Switch, 8 x 10-100-1000 Mbps Gigabit Ethernet Ports, 16 Gbps Switching Capacity, Metal, Lifetime Protection, Black, TEG-S82G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2H0YFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1A1FWQG6WP22KQDZWE2K

I'd recommend looking into either Norton ConnectSafe or OpenDNS FamilyShield. Configure your router to use these custom DNS servers instead of the Google DNS. You change this under the advanced setting in the app.

https://dns.norton.com https://www.opendns.com/setupguide/?url=familyshield

Speed tests wouldn't show any difference - they are mostly indifferent to DNS resolution. There are testers for DNS resolution like https://www.grc.com/dns/benchmark.htm . Using it a moment ago, both OpenDNS and Google's DNS are marginally faster than 1.1.1.1. All 3 are fast enough not to matter, but I'm not seeing that this new one is faster than the others at all.

Hey there!

I am no expert but try to help wherever possible, you have provided a lot of info here but it’s slightly hard to follow. If it’s easy enough a mud map (layout of your 3 levels with important pieces of equipment marked on it) might help diagnose your issue.

One key piece of info you seemed to have left out is the distances between all devices concerned, you should be able to rely on the mesh test for what the internal “puck to puck” connections are but it’s good to know the physical distance is potentially an issue.

For your suggested solutions I wouldn’t be going to your provider just yet, if you’re getting 200-220mbps that is way more than enough to stream 4K but there are so many factors in actually doing that all the way from where the content is being sent from to how your device grades the content which is to say some streaming services won’t automatically adjust quality and will just wait for ever to buffer 4K on a shitty internet service while others will adjust to suit your internet speeds.

I would firstly test your internet speed several times in different locations but with the same device each time. If you for example test on a laptop right next to the main mesh puck then as far from it but in the same level and then repeat for each level of the house to see if the distance is causing an issue. I would also suggest using Ping Plotter for this testing, download and upload speeds are important but I think people in general don’t understand that they really don’t mean everything. Using PingPlotter you can see how quick your internet is plus see any drop outs or packet loss for specific sites so you can get much better analysis plus can run in the background rather than an instantaneous result that may not identify intermittent issues.

You can look at the IP on the device itself to verify. Or you can look up the manufacturer by the MAC address assuming they aren't all the same brand.

This is way more complicated, but it works for me for other server related setups. I get an addressable "hostname" out of it too.

• Do what /u/Caedeus47 does (that is, set yourself a static IP). For example, 192.168.1.40
• I bought a dynamic domain at from , but there are many others, some free) (eg: )
• Use a VPN service that provides port forwarding (not many out there that do; AirVPN is one), and make sure your valheim server is using the VPN.
• Use an auto-updater for your dns service that always associates your DNS name () with your current IP, which since you're on the VPN is their exit IP, which is globally addressable.
• on your VPN service, forward some port on their side (eg: 8938) to your 192.168.1.40:<valheim port>

So now when anyone goes to :8938, since you've updated that name to "your" IP (which is the exit IP of the VPN), it goes to AirVPN:8938, which is forwarded to your machine through the VPN tunnel to 192.168.1.40:<valheim port>

This works for me with emby, etc. so my son can watch media from my media server while he's at college.

You might also consider just running your server on a Digital Ocean droplet, or GCP/AWS VM. It'll be globally visible there too, and you can use the cloud services for auth, DDOS protection, etc.

Now working with a Pixel phone.

Been monitoring for the update to the Google WiFi with this capability and Google must have slipped it in without me realizing.

Now we need some applications to take advantage as you now can get precise location in your home.

Here is the app to test with.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.location.rtt.wifirttscan

I am on Q but should also work on Pie. But be good if someone confirmed. Also be curious about it working on a non Google Phone which we do not have. We now only have Pixels and iPhones.

Yes, wire up as many as you can back to the primary. It's best to connect all back to a central gigabit switch connected to the primary GWiFi's LAN port, but you can daisy chain as well. As long as it has a wired path back to primary.

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Since you'll be installing, you can use WiFi Analyzer on your smart phone to try and figure out the best areas to place them. For the ones wired, you'll want those where signal is weakest. Since you'll want the pucks to be central to where the devices are used most, putting them in the ceiling where smoke detector or recessed can lighting is installed tends to be ideal locations. I have seen one person on this subreddit have a picture of it. It was sticking out quite a bit. Since the antennas are located only on the top half, the portion above the LED, you can actually make it more flush and look pretty slick.

I'm not going to save "never" but I don't believe that Google will add this feature.

One option you have to keep everything the way you have it but to put all your traffic through VPN (though I don't recommend this because you'll get much slower speeds) is to buy something like the Ubnt EdgeRouter X

Thanks! I hadn't even realised you could check the mesh speed. I'd been using fast.com each time after moving things around but its much easier to just check within the app.

How do I see which AP the device is connected to? It doesn't seem to be an option under further details on the mesh test, nor is it included in the device details when I click on the device within network device settings.

It is showing a speed of 50 Mbps. By contrast, my other Google point is showing a mesh speed of 90 Mbps while my secondary hardwired routers are showing ~300Mbps.

I have tried without the additional AP as I initially thought that would be sufficient. Its way less stable without the second AP. It sometimes shows much quicker speeds and lower latencies but then at other times will be much slower so the increase in stability with the point has so far worked better.

More or less, yes. The closest alternative to Google Home Assistant is the Amazon devices (Hey Alexa). For the really technically savvy there is home-assistant.io - which you now have to understand and program yourself (there is a lot of community support). I am considering this route to supplement my existing Google Home stuff but, really, I'm still looking into using home-assistant.io as it will take a lot of time and effort to get it running.

Google basically makes it convenient - but the risk is that if the product fails on you, you're out (in some cases, such as the Nest Wifi) hundreds of dollars. However, if you were to buy the equivalent non-Google hardware, the time it would take you to research, configure and integrate it into your home might not be worth it. You have to be able to put a dollar value on your personal time at some point.

There is a utility called DNS Benchmark you can use to test which DNS is the fastest for you.

One advantage of OpenDNS is if you register, you can have it block sites for you without having a firewall do it.

Testing the speed of the laptop under devices on the google app says it's getting 200 down, but if i go to fast.com or speedtest.net it's getting under 20 down.

Looking at the feature set, I'm not sure what you're really getting by including the Core in the setup. Google provides everything it offers, natively, in terms of controlling individual devices, bandwidth monitoring, control via mobile app, etc. "Real soon now" (tm), I'm confident google will implement better URL filtering into the main OS.

But even before then, all one needs to do is go to opendns.com:

https://www.opendns.com/home-internet-security/

and set up a free account there. Point Google to it as your DNS server, and it provides comprehensive site filtering. There's a one-step setup by just repointing the DNS and it works for all standard categories, or you can customize if you do choose to set up a (free) account.

The best way to block ads is to setup a pihole. Fun project and catches tons of ads ontop of any other ad DNS services you find. Just point the WiFi to use the pihole as the DNS server.

https://pi-hole.net/?v=7516fd43adaa

And that would work with this model here? https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-System-Router-Replacement/dp/B08GGBZNZ5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&amp;keywords=google%2Bwifi&amp;qid=1626635720&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzTjc4NFpFU1A3R04wJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjUxNTgzMU1MNVNFSjJVNVE3WSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjc2Nzc2MUxVSFNFMlFGVjhJOCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&amp;th=1

Thank you so much for replying!

2 pack at $120 each: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YMJ57MB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9MWCH881WPSN83E1C7PX?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

That price appears to be a pretty decent sale... Not sure how long that price will last.

Note: routers don't include the Google Assistant mic/speaker if you care about that, but they're more powerful and have an extra Ethernet port.

I had a similar problem. Been happening sporadically, first around late 2020 getting speeds of 10Mbps DL and more recently the last couple of weeks speeds from 2Mbps to 5Mbps. I’m on a 80 Mbps plan. iPads wouldn’t connect and I’d get random disconnects on them. Netflix started blurring. I have the old Google 3 puck system, and for the last couple of years had no issues. This past Sunday I first did a couple of restarts, no luck. Then I tried unplugging each of them and restarting no luck. Then I tried a hard factory reset on each device pushing the button on each.. still no luck same slow speeds. Last I tried the factory restart from the new home app.. took about 15 mins for it to erase and factory reset to setup mode no luck. Then I did it a 2nd time and finally got better speeds 10-20Mbps. Then randomly out of the blue, maybe like 30 mins later the puck connected to the router reset by itself. I was on my iPhone connected to the WiFi and was signing into my NordVPN, and maybe that caused the puck connected to the router to reset, or maybe it was just a random reset I don’t know. But my speeds are back to normal now. Really weird. On the 2nd attempt factory reset from the app I answered no on send info to Google and no to sharing devices with Google and then later changed share device info with Google. Made sure preferred activities were all unchecked. So far so good. But we’ll see. I’m already looking at getting the eero system or maybe the new Lynksys Hydra Pro WiFi 6E router from Costco if my Google WiFi fails me again. I just want something that gives me stable reliable connection for what I’m paying for. I can’t have it unstable as I’m working from home. So I share OPs sentiments and good to know I’m not the only one experiencing this. Good luck to y’all if you stay with Google WiFi or move on. Cheers!🍻

If your house has coax TV outlets, have a look at using MoCA > MoCA provides an in-home network backbone for WiFi, or dedicated Gigabit Ethernet connections using the existing coax wiring in your home to deliver fast, consistent speeds of up to 2.5 Gbps

There are thousands of options, probably this one if you only want 5 ft. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Flexboot-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B00AJHC7BY/

Don't hard wire anything into the Verizon router other than your google router. Enable bridge mode on the Verizon router. Everything should connect, wirelessly or wired, to the Google network only. If you need more hardwired ports, plug a switch (or multiple downstream switches) into the google wifi LAN port. Here's a 5-port one for $13.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PFYM5MZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Would powerline ethernet adapters work in this scenario? You could wire it right to one of the pucks in the house and then another in the summer house to then wire to that puck.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-Extender-TP-Link/dp/B084CZMYNM/

Jumping in this thread to say Amazon currently has the Nest Wifi Router 2 pack on sale for $219. Also, yes you are correct in your thinking. If you can hardwire your routers, you'll have great speed everywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YMJ57MB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_dlC_VqZUFbPWCRBPB

It depends on your use case. Personally, I'd use 2 routers even if I wasn't running a cable. I don't want the speaker/Google Assistant feature on the Point, and I want the more powerful Router with better range. So it's really up to you.

FYI: The 2-pack of Nest Routers is on sale on Amazon for $219 right now.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YMJ57MB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_dlC_lyOUFbTQS10RG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I'd start by looking at the local wifi environment and seeing if her device, or any neighboring devices in range, are interfering with yours.

I like this app for android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.techet.netanalyzerlite.an. Unfortunately I don't have any iOS devices so I can't recommend anything for that platform.

Open the app, switch to the "wifi signal" section and the channel graph or channel usage views for 2.4GHz and have a look at who's using different channels. It seems pretty likely that her AP and yours are both selecting the same channel, so check to see if that's happening and then find the least used channel out of 1, 6 and 11.

Once you've found the least used channel connect to your ISP router and configure your 2.4GHz wifi to use that, hopefully that'll improve things.

If at all possible try to stick to 1, 6 and 11, the wifi spec has provisions for sharing airtime on a channel but doesn't handle the interference from overlapping channels well.

Just an update on this everyone:

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This was due to NordVPN. Special thanks to SommeThing for pointing me in the right direction. I just unchecked the "invisibility on LAN" setting. Had no idea it was there.

Well I would try a MoCA adapter then since I'e heard other people have great success with them. I am under the notion of keeping what is there for now rather than ripping something out for something else, especially if I can use what is there.

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I would ask around here for recommendations for MoCA adapters. I found these on Amazon (Link) that support full 1 Gbps speeds which looks promising. They are a little pricey, but if they work then I would rather pay for something that is fast and reliable. That is what I would use before I start ripping things out of the wall.

I was curious. You're right, it's essentially impossible to find an ethernet hub left on amazon. Everything is a switch; the very cheapest are still available as 10/100, but gigabit switches remain dirt cheap as well. But - they do sell these wonky splitters that run half the RJ45 lines to one output, half to the other, so the devices that hook to them can only sync at 100 mb on a gig network, and they both can't be used at the same time. link 1 link 2

(don't buy either of these, they are a weird curiousity, not a real solution)

Got it. Yes, this is fully dependent on Xfinity's infrastructure, and has nothing to do with yours. Sometimes they leave the same IPs on customer installs for years, sometimes they rotate if there are changes in the equipment in that area, and sometimes it might rotate if you put a completely new cable modem on the line. I did get a new IP when I switched from the Xfinity rented modem to a personally owned modem. I don't believe I got a new IP when I was swapping between owned modems for awhile while I was deciding on one to keep.

Running ipconfig /release and /renew on your local network behind the google wifi isn't even getting to Comcast's infrastructure, the DNS server within google wifi is responding to those. But I do wonder if you really were releasing/renewing from Comcast's DNS server directly, if it would be more likely to give a new address.

You might try confirming that the modem is in bridge mode (it should be anyway, for Google Wifi to work best afterwards), then shutting it down, and your laptop/pc down. Plug the laptop via ethernet directly into the cable modem, turn on cable modem, wait a bit, then turn laptop on. Your laptop should now have the same external IP that was being granted over to the Google Wifi main puck. Now - run that ipconfig /release and ipconfig /renew sequence. I'd do it in this order:

ipconfig /release

ipconfig /flushdns

ipconfig /renew

It's worth a shot. But if you really want to change your external IP so people don't associate it the old one (or the new one) with you in some way, the more permanent fix is utilizing a VPN service (Private Internet Access, NordVPN, or any of dozens of other inexpensive commercial ones).

We are supposed to get 100mbps.

We aren't doing any VPN each use NordVPN on our laptops/phones when outside the office.

We don't have anything internal that we access remotely (no remote desktop needs, no server, no internal storage--we use dropbox business, etc).

We do have VOIP phones, in answering @Lavep question.

Does ISP-->Google Wifi sound like a viable and safe solution?

I use it with Unlocator at router level. Works well and only issue is that our MiBox doesn't seem to work well with Unlocator. This has been an ongoing issue before I put GW in. Otherwise no concerns with PS4s and Roku boxes.

Well using NordVPN if I run a speed test I get about 20Mbps down and 15 up. Which is good for VPN but probably not for running everything to it.

I configured mine so only certain things are running through it but it requires more configuration and you'd lose some of the features of Google Wifi because you'd have to put them into bridged mode

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.gms

Look for beta sign up in there.. once you sign up for beta, it should be a few minutes, go to play store under the my apps and games, you should see a beta category.. Click update on Google play services

I used this one to provide the correct number of amps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YB1JF2G/

Also the same Google WiFi bracket as yours.

I really wish Google WiFi supported PoE directly.

Went searching to sign up for the beta via play store. Oddly it doesn't give me the option. But I did find a new version of the apk, looks like it was just uploaded today.

Once I installed I had the same options to (finally) choose stable, beta, or dev channel

Run your backhaul over your coax tv cable lines -

Thank you, it isn't a managed switch (very basic one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092KZBCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)

Dumb question, but how do I see whether the puck is connected via wired or mesh in the Home app? I knew how to do it in the old Google WiFi app, but can't seem to find it. Thank you!

I'm getting the Nest Wifi Pro as well! Really looking forward to it...as to your question, I bought this for the main point by my ONT, which is also where my main entertainment hub is located - can't go wrong with 18k 4.8 reviews. Can attest, 1 year later, never an issue. And I use all 8 ports! $19.99 is worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PFYM5MZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

At the coax splitter, unplug the lines that need MoCA and put them onto their own MoCA-compliant splitter like this one.

Where your starling adapter plugs into your router puck, you'll need to add an ethernet switch so you can also plug in a MoCA adapter. The coax from that MoCA adapter needs to get fed back into the MoCA splitter. Now all the coax on that splitter speak MoCA.

Take the 2nd MoCA adapter, feed it another line from the splitter and connect an ethernet cable from it to one of your other pucks on the "WAN" side.

I guess you'll want a 3rd MoCA adapter to hardwire the 2nd puck.

Have you used any kind of app to see what channels everything is on?

Something like this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.usurvey&amp;hl=en_US&amp;gl=US

Without back reading everything that's been said and done, it honestly sounds like wifi overload. Use that app to find a signal that's strong and almost by itself on it's channel. Then make sure you're connected to it's AP. Then do a speed test.

That is the current version from Google, yes. The downside of that new version is that the main router is different from the extra points, and it's the only device that has ethernet ports on it, so it's not possible to set up a wired backhaul using them. It is possible to buy just the Nest router and use those only, for example, this is a 3 pack of the only Nest Wifi routers, it would have greater coverage than that of the Nest router and points and it would be possible to set up a wired backhaul, though it's obviously more expensive.

Also, a new version of Nest Wifi is in the pipeline with Wi-fi 6, though it's unknown when it will come out.

Regarding placement, if you can, centralize the main one (the one connected to the modem) in the house in addition to placing it high up. Then you can place the others to cover the weaker areas and or extend the coverage outside.

it's a router on it's own. If you're just using internet with Xfinity, it's a relatively easy switch. You'd need a modem something like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DY16W2Z) to convert the Coax cable to Ethernet. Then from that box you can connect to Nest Wifi. You can then send the Xfinity back to them and stop renting it (if you are).

If you have Cable TV and go this route, you may lose access to Guide Data and the Video On Demand features. But if you just pay for internet, it's super easy.

Mostly due to the size of Orbi. Eero is basically the same size as Google Wifi. Plus price.. I think the 3 unit Orbi system is a few more $$. This is the $299 one that I purchased. https://amazon.com/Introducing-Amazon-eero-dual-band-support/dp/B08ZK2BHP2

You might try out the Netgear GS208. One advantage is has is that the power and ethernet ports are on the back, so it will blend in better. Oddly enough the 8-port is cheaper now than the 5-port.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00KFD0SYK?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_YYGHAQ8A49RX2BFKVKTN

Not exactly, I think there are a few ifttt you can use though - https://ifttt.com/applets/161615p-log-wifi-connections-disconnections

https://ifttt.com/applets/165357p-wifi-connection-log-to-google-drive

You might want to turn off IPV6 if you have it on, I had that issue and Google Wifi Support determined it was IPV6. After I turned it off I had much better results with it going down.

https://www.amazon.com/Google-WiFi-Power-Adapter-Original/dp/B09M2859GD/ref=asc_df_B09M2859GD

Its a standard USB type C 3A 5V power supply, if you have a very strong phone charger that might work as well. Buying that a phone adapter would basically be the same price as the actual adapter.

Don't get a wifi extender, that defeats the purpose of mesh. If moving the point closer to the middle of the apartment doesn't work, another point could be added in between. They make nice holders to keep the install looking clean on the wall. You can also get a cheap Google WiFi puck as your other 'point', save some money and also have nice looking wall mounts.

Google Wifi Mount (there are two plug types for Google Wifi so you'd need the correct one)

Nest Point Mount

I would highly recommend your original setup: Coax > Xfinity modem/router (in bridge mode) -> Nest Router (NAT mode) > unmanaged switch > some devices.

Then can you get either 2 more Nest Wifi routers or a Google Wifi 3-pack and add an Ethernet backhaul after the unmanaged switch. Not sure on the house layout, but that would be the best scenario.

Also, since you've been having problems with multiple configurations, have you verified there's not a signal issue with your ISP and that your Xfinity modem/router is operating correctly? From your first description, it sounds to me like this issue is bigger than the Nest configuration.

And in case you didn't know, here's a Google Nest Wifi 2-Pack for $256: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YMJ57MB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_CT7ZD8KDD9ZQ470X279S

Although toggling Wifi off from the control center doesn't fully turn off Wifi it still disconnects you from accessories. That includes disconnecting you from whatever Wifi network you are connected to.

http://osxdaily.com/2017/10/04/how-disable-wifi-bluetooth-ios-11/

Hi. This is a heads-up for people who are in the market for a mesh WiFi network. The deal isn't live for another 11 days, but I figured I shouldn't wait any longer because there may be people who could use this information; without it, they may spend more money elsewhere before the promotion is live.

I am linking to Slickdeals.net, a deal hunting website, where I posted more information about the promotion.

I hope this helps,

Tofu Vic

I did this test with power cord and direct ethernet to eliminate that as possible issue. I am using this as my switch.

NETGEAR 52-Port PoE Gigabit Ethernet Smart Switch (GS752TP) - Managed, Optional Insight Cloud Management, 48 x PoE+ @ 380W, 4 x 1G SFP, Desktop or Rackmount, and Limited Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CCBRRHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XDMQCXMK89JD5M32GSFM?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Main router is plugged into last port instead of first not sure if that matters?

Are you using dimond plated ethernet?

Audioquest Diamond RJ/E (Ethernet) Cable 3m (10') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073HI94M/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_F288MEAKEKRM8Z3XTFPY

You'll need to hardwire each one back to a juniper switch.

https://networkdevicesinc.com/products/qfx10002-60c?variant=32730013565031

It sounds like you forgot to mesh them together. Unfortunately, supply chain issues have disrupted the mesh market.

Upgraded 2PACK SS Wire Mesh, 4 Mesh Completely Welded, 12 X 24 in(310mm X 620mm), Stainless Mesh Screen 304, Easy to Cut and Make Straight, Wire Mesh Screen Never Rust by Valchoose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FPRTKJL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_KYS2983MSF4FK6Y49S5P

I was considering roof mounted ubiquity devices but eventually went with Google/nest Wifi systems as i found them to link well with my Google assistant eco system and plus they were easy to see device usage.

Still hesitant on the ‘google big brother’ thing but oh well. NordVPN+iCloud private relay do help significantly.

I'm going to assume you've already rebooted the entire network using software. Also when you say Google Device, which one? Are you using the new Nest Routers, the Google Wifi pucks, or the old On-hubs? I am also going to assume only the exterior of your house is brick, as it is usually the case, and that in between floors there is no concrete/bricks (just wood, but let me know if that's wrong).

But assuming you've rebooted and from your description that does sound like you're seeing too much wifi interference. Try getting a software like WiFi Analyzer on android or iOS (like this one https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.netgear.WiFiAnalytics) and just check out how many devices are on each band. It maybe it's just too congested for wifi to be good.

You may be connected to the wrong "Access Point" even though you're right next to a puck. Try disconnecting the device and keep it disconnected for 1 hr, then connecting it right next to the access point to see it's any better.

You may also overkilling it with a puck on each floor which would add to the congestion. Try doing one device every other floor to see if that helps. So basement, 2nd, fourth floors. Is 4th the top floor or 5th (as in when you say 5 stories, did that include the basement)?

I agree it is often cheaper to get an extender and USB WiFi dongle, or if you're limited on USB ports, a PCIe WiFi card.

It may be better to get a WiFi bridge (I have 2 of these that I picked up for $15 each, but the speeds aren't great although they were fine for the OG XBox I used them on though) or a WiFi extender + bridge with and Ethernet port. It may be a slightly more expensive option if you want great speeds, but the versatility of the extender + bridge is greater.

But if you are looking at replacing your router and WiFi AP(s) as I was 5 years ago, it is a feature that may sway you towards the Google WiFi platform - I had my SteamLink plugged in to my remote Google WiFi puck, which then meshed to the central one I used as the router.

What are you using to test this? The Google Wifi app, Google Home, Speedtest, Fast.com? You seem to be responding with internet speeds, not ethernet speeds.
Let's try this another way :

On your computer Hit Windows Key + R and copy/paste this and run it without the quotations.
"ncpa.cpl"
In the new window, click on your ethernet adapter and tell me what it says to the right of "speed".

Yeah it really should get close to the speeds, i doubt that google really didnt bother to make their ethernet gigabit, since thats almost a standard with ethernet ports these days, i guess?

Is there a google wifi app for pc? My phone doesnt have an ethernet port :p

It should be mentioned that i have done all the test via https://www.speedtest.net/
Im getting approx 100-300mbits on the wifi depending on where i am in the house, and yet the ethernet is still 100mbits. According to the google wifi app, it tells me i have 500/500mbits.

I did the same thing. I bought this from Amazon and it was all I needed. If anything I’d invest into access points rather an expensive modem if you have a big place.

Motorola MB7621 Cable Modem | Pairs with Any WiFi Router | Approved by Comcast Xfinity, Cox and Spectrum | for Cable Plans Up to 900 Mbps | DOCSIS 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BL65HS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GK750F9V1N1YFBZW4NV4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

At this point I'd get a couple of https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-1-5-Meters/dp/B07TXDVMYJ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=QZ5BI94TQCI7&amp;keywords=tp+link+1gb+switch&amp;qid=1640805212&amp;sprefix=rubber+gloves%2Caps%2C126&amp;sr=8-2 and see if it fixes it.

I hope it does, I just installed a google nest wifi system and had some really strange results with an older netgear switch (but plugging directly in was fine) so I've ordered these. Should set up today or tomorrow. I can report back.

Multiple reasons:

1) Mesh networking is a crutch for those who are unwilling to put in a hardwired infrastructure. I built this home with Ethernet drops throughout so I have no interest in subscribing to the limitations required to make a simplistic mesh possible, i.e. all nodes communicate on a single channel and share that precious bandwidth. (After 50 years in the computer industry I know enough about networking to know that there are other, more flexible approaches but none of the mesh products offered to consumers employ those techniques.)

2) Once one escapes the shackles of a simplistic mesh one can actually exploit two 80MHz-wide 5GHz channels. So effectively 4x the bandwidth of the Nest mesh configuration.

3) I want a proper router that I can manage as my gateway to the internet. It is also important that it support cake SQM. Thus I was unwilling to have a Nest router as my gateway.

4) If a Nest router operating as a true router separates the hardwired LAN from the wireless LAN then wireless devices cannot communicate with wired devices.

And finally... I am a geek who rarely backs down from a challenge. I was not about to admit that Google/Nest had made it impossible for me to deploy the hardware I own in the manner I intend :-)

Could you connect your laptop to ethernet port on google wifi and run speedtest.net or fast.com. ?

Google speed test servers which are used for google wifi speed testing are same as when you search for speed test on google. Depending on the ISP they might not be accurate because I remember I have spectrum and it used to show me half the speed. Then probably they fixed something and i get correct speed now.

Ethernet port should get you around ~850-900 mbps if you are using proper cat 5e or cat 6 cables.

Wifi should do ~450-500 mbps depending on teh strength of the wifi.

The detailed mesh test results are really only useful for comparing multiple mesh test runs with each other. It's a stress test of the whole system, so all of the mesh points are being pushed simultaneously. For a wireless mesh, I don't think those numbers are unreasonable. If you do a WiFi speed test (not an end-to-end test to something like fast.com) to one of those clients using the Google WiFi app, what does it show? That should be a better indication of what the clients are capable of over WiFi. The numbers you're getting now are lower than I would expect, but I would like to see a more isolated test to get a better feel.

This might be more involved then you were hoping, but I use Home Assistant with a local SMTP server. Check out https://home-assistant.io/components/sensor.google_wifi/.

Perhaps if you wanted to get home automation, this would be a good start.

First, why are you putting it in a shed? A point in the house next to a window will generally cover the backyard fine, unless you have a huge backyard. But then you should probably look into a dedicated outdoor type AP that you can configure in bridge mode connected to the rest of your mesh. Those will not care about the weather or your shed...

Second, most commercial electronics is designed to not fail unless below 0C, which is 32F. But keep in mind that the point makes it's own heat so it's unlikely to itself drop down below 32F since your shed is probably doesn't have great air flow through it when it's closed. So even if the temperature outside drops below 32F, the temperature in the shed will itself not drop that low unless it's consistently that low for a really long amount of time. The shed itself acts like an insulator, just not the perfect one. So chances are you'll be fine with it in your shed at the very minimum tonight.

If you are worried about it, you can put thermostat (like this one) that records low and high temps and see what it actually get's down to in the shed.

I had the WeMo smart plugs for a long time with my google Wi-Fi gen 1. Tiny bit of setup but worked flawlessly for years. Here's the amazon link, its a bit pricy right now but it was nice for lamps and other wall plug lights.

If you have the original a Google WiFi with the small white hockey pucks you are good to go. They all have Ethernet ports. If you have the Nest WiFi you need to have a system with only routers, no points. The Nest points do not have Ethernet ports.

Setup your network as follows: Internet modem -> main Google wifi puck -> unmanaged switch -> then all other wifi pucks.

Here is a great little switch. They have a 5 port and it's a few dollars cheaper but I always seem to run out of ports. If you add any other smart home devices the more ports the better (Phillips hue, etc).

Limited-time deal: TP-Link TL-SG108 | 8 Port Gigabit Unmanaged Ethernet Network Switch, Ethernet Splitter | Plug & Play | Fanless Metal Design | Shielded Ports | Traffic Optimization | Limited Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_R3ZGWE3WYEHH8FCEXW80?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I just reset my entire network. Turned off all devices. ALL. Restarted the Modem. Turned on 2 Wifi points. Powered on Google Home. Powered on hue Bridge. Powered On Baby monitor and Owlet Monitor.

speed test cam back with great speeds. 309 down and 31 up. Screenshot Here

So here are my thoughts. It's a two-story house, with a basement. Onhub is on the main floor, current wired puck is across the house, upstairs.

To help with clarity, here is an amazing photo I created. :) : layout

(1) is where our onHub is, on the main floor. (2) is where the current wired puck is, upstairs. (3) is where I could add another wired puck on the main floor (4) is where a wired puck could live in the basement

I'd still be lacking some coverage in the kitchen (top left room), but I think that (3) would help with that a bit. Right now it's only catching (1) from the far corner of the house or (2) which is kind of close, but a floor above. (3) should help with that, plus push out more to the backyard (off the top of the picture).

Thoughts?

You can check the blacklist status of your IP address with this handy tool:

https://mxtoolbox.com/blacklists.aspx

Simply find your public IP address (you can use www.whatismyip.com) and enter it there, and it will tell you what blacklists your IP is on. Most of them will also link you to a form where you can appeal your blacklist status.

It's possible you recently received a new IP and it was previously used for bad things. Sometimes you can force your ISP to assign you a new IP by leaving your modem and router disconnected for 12-24hrs, or you can call them and see if they can manually do it.

Nope. Testing on a 2020 Macbook pro and an iPhone 11 pro

Macbook advanced settings show 5ghz. Shows 1300mbps tx rate next to main node... and 866mbps tx rate on other side of apt

The devices can talk to the access points with plenty of speed. But the internet speed delivered by Google Wifi is just slow

Hey thanks for the Gold!

I went and tested my own speeds with and without the AirPort Extreme radio on again out of curiosity.

What's nice about the Google WiFi app is that you can selectively test not only the overall bandwidth to the Internet but then between mesh points and the points to devices (the 3 separate options under Network Check).

I haven't had the patience to try NetSpot though (for Mac or Windows) to formally map out the WiFi signal across the house, but it's probably worth doing if you have the chance. Their site is pretty handy on its own too, e.g. material types vs WiFi permeability. For example I hadn't realized that mirrors were very high-interference to WiFi signals (which explains a lot of why one room of our house with a large set of mirrors on one wall has such low signal).

https://www.netspotapp.com/

It was working fine for me with just wifi. I got too good of a deal on a switch and put that to good use, by keeping this wired. So far I don't think the secondary was ever used. It's just a backup option incase my pihole is out for some reason.

That ipv6 is again the quad9 one as well, my fios network doesn't support ipv6 yet and the gwifi setup screen wouldn't let me save without providing one. so used it from here. https://www.quad9.net/faq/#Is_there_IPv6_support_for_Quad9

I have the original Google wifi (not the new one just announced) with Comcast gigabit. If I test speeds during light load times I get 900+ download, heavy load times (e.g., 7 pm) I get 650-700. I like fast.com and Ookla for testing.

No. I would continue to figure out why a 30GB video download off a 500mb/s line takes a day even when wired. Anything over roughly 200mb/s is going to be difficult to maintain across the entire Internet. I assume these downloads are legitimate. I would also test speeds wired with sites such as fast.com (Netflix) and downloading large patches, large xbox game demos from Microsoft. Otherwise only a few Internet companies and sites are actually capable of 500mb/s. Downgrading to 100 or 200 would be my recommendation if the money saved per month is worth it to you. Price difference between 100mb/s and 200 tends to change from $5 to $10 a month for me.

You can set up VPN on your router and access the Internet fully protected from any device, including Smart tv. I have been used VeePN and recommend it to you, what is more, they propose $50/ 5 years plan today with promo code(can share it). Read more about VPN and router configuration.

Congrats, your son is clever :) Before Google Wifi, I set all clients to use family-safe DNS servers (https://www.opendns.com/setupguide/#familyshield). I thought, if one day they're smart enough to figure out how to bypass that, then they've earned it. And personally I was curious to see what age that would be.

First two tiers are free. 1st tier has no setup, and blocks adult sites if you point to the preconfigured DNS servers. 2nd tier provides customization, and some reporting, also free. The 3rd tier provides additional reporting over time, and adds whitelisting capabilities. Have been using the 2nd tier since getting Google Wifi, prior to Google rolling out filtering, and have been perfectly happy.

https://www.opendns.com/home-internet-security/

Under the details tab on each device there is an edit icon (pencil) that you can select to edit. If you don't know what device it is, you can look up the MAC address with a tool like https://www.wireshark.org/tools/oui-lookup.html to give you an idea. It's not always helpful.

If a new NAS is not in your budget

FreeNAS or OpenMediaVault can be run on something as small as a Raspberry pi. Plug in your USB HDD and go.

Have a look around - plenty of YouTube videos - could be a fun learning project (even more fun if you have kids)

Hi there! Please DM us on our Twitter or Facebook so we may assist you further!

I use one of these.

Note: you have to make sure you let it run down the battery every few months or it’ll stop working. I learned that the hard way.

Haven't needed this, so haven't tried it. But these pucks don't take much energy. I'd imagine you could use a cheap power pack (something like this), run a usb-a to usb-c cable to power the puck, and run a simple micro-usb charger to it. Most of these in the past few years can handle being charged while providing power. With the battery pack + charger + cable, it starts to approach the price of a cheap UPS, but if you are considering multiples; this still might be the way to go.

What you're proposing won't work. But one idea that might solve a portion of your issue for $60 (and only require a single Nest Router), is getting something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QTXNWZ1

Multi-wan capable router. Run 1 of the modems to the first wan port, run the 2nd to the second wan port. Then plug the nest Wifi router into one of the LAN ports. You need to tell it the expected bandwidth of each of your ISPs, and it will try and traffic-shape the correct portion of traffic to each. If either fail, it will automatically push the traffic to the one that is still working. It will not do auto-switching if one just gets slower (but is still working), so it's not the true optimization you are asking about. But - it will ensure that you always have working internet, as long as one of the ISPs is functional. You also have to live with double-NAT in this setup, but that's not a huge issue for most use cases.

They make "POE Extenders", which are basically tiny POE powered 3 port switches (1 POE in, 2 POE out) that pass on the excess power. You'd put one in front of the splitter to the second puck, and daisy chain the third puck off the extender's other port instead of the second puck's other port.

My concern would be the power draw. The pucks already use 30W, and all of the reasonable sized extenders I can find are only rated for 30W in -> 2x15W. The only ones I could immediately find that are rated for 60W in -> 2x30W out are gigantic outdoor rated ones.

Also, for your injector, keep in mind that you need your output to be 3A at 5V, which is a lot less power than 3A at 48V. That's why injectors are usually rated by watts. If you have a 60W injector, you should be fine. (The 3 standards are PoE at 15.4W, PoE+ at 30W, and Ultra PoE at 60W.)

You might want to consider a powerline back haul. I use one and depending on your the quality of your house’s electric wiring it can provide up to 2Gbps speeds depending on the one you get. I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H74VKZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 - occasionally I have to reboot them, but rarely. Maybe once a year at most.

5 in1 USB c hub,Type c multiport Adapter with Gigabit Ethernet, 3 prots USB 3.0 hub for Data, 100W Power Delivery, Docking Station for USB c hub MacBook pro, and Other USB C Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085XZGVN5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4XZPP5SA2QT1P5CEXNVB?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I use gen1 Google WiFi, and hit 400Mb, which is as fast as our connection is. Depending on network congestion you can get up to 867Mb, but most likely less. Still not Gigabit, not sure about newer Google Nest WiFi units.

We used Power line adapters and easily got Gigabit speeds when we had CenturyLink Fiber.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084CZMYNM/

If you go the MoCA route, you might want to grab a cheap coax line tracer (18.95) will make your job a whole lot easier.

I use following app... However there are many app can do similar things... I just put the phone near the pluck and see signal strength from other pluck....

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tools.netgel.netxpro

Certainly! Two bits I got:

• UPS (link here) that came with a couple of 5.5×2.1mm male to male cables;
• Adapter (link here) to convert one of those to 3.5×1.35mm at one end.

Nothing but good to say about the setup. UPS gives you a 12V and a 9V output, as I recall, and a couple of 5V USB outputs. Lots of USB to barrel jack adapters on Amazon, too, so I've got the WiFi, modem, switch, and Raspberry Pi all on the UPS.

Here you go, I drilled a large hole in the back plate to feed the wires to keep them completely hidden. I also saw them on eBay if you can’t find them on your Amazon wherever you are…

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07874418D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_T9S1HR92R583CE9NQJX7

Ok I’m back!

I bought these powerline ethernet and they work great for getting the connection to the other end of the house and then I plug the google Wi-Fi in at that end. So far so good.

This would be what you need - you could get them cheaper on ebay or through local marketplaces but you also run the risk of no warranty. https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Wifi-Router-Generation/dp/B07YMJ57MB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3KS6ULDX0SG31&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=google+nest+wifi+router+2+pack&amp;qid=1620309135&amp;sprefix=google+nest+wifi+router%2Caps%2C148&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWVBRQTI3TjlVUVg5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTg0NTg1QzhYSUxSWEZJNVk3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNzA3OTFGWE8zOE04WEpRRkwmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Those are the cheap 100Mbps DECA (not MoCA) adapters. They work fine, but they aren't fast enough for streaming 4K remuxes, and file copying will be slow.

The next step up is true MoCA adapters. These work at gigabit speed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYDG7WN/