What are /r/googlefiber's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Make sure you're not plugging it into the red port. That's an alternate WAN port used when the SFP+ connection for WAN isn't used. The yellow ones will work at 1Gb, the silver bottom port will work at 10Gb.

If you want faster than 1Gb, you'll need to buy a separate PCI-e adapter, something like this.

Your link didn’t work for me - https://www.amazon.com/PacSatSales-Single-SIMPLEX-Fiber-Optic/dp/B01GIV0PIQ something like this should work. My wall jack has a dust jacket on it - but you can slide it back to insert.

Think about it this way.

The Fiber box is still going to be in your network, data is going to go through the box which still has to be managed via the cloud interface, which means your WAN data has the potential to be looked at by Google since its configuration is residing in the cloud somewhere.

A GS108E would allow you to remove all of that, and completely use your AC3200 as your end-point gateway. One can be had for only $48 on Amazon. You'll also need a PoE injector, the one I use is $20 on Amazon.

$68 total is a fairly small price to pay for complete freedom from the NB and control over your network, IMO.

But, it is your decision. You can definitely use your router as an AP, and still have all network control from the NB. The best you'd be able to do on the NB end would be to disable broadcast, ~~but you can't disable WiFi (you can just not connect to it).~~ I'm wrong, you can disable wifi with the "WiFi Network" toggle.

Are you sure that you need to? I can easily get well over 700mbps with line of site and `200-300 through a few rooms in my house on wifi. Otherwise you can look at a powerline connection, but I dont think it would be worth it.

There's a lot of possible bottlenecks from reaching over 1gig, like Cat5e cabling, 1gig ethernet ports, and obviously your internet plan. I'd be very surpised if you were actually getting more than 1gig or if fast.com is not showing accurate speeds.

No issues here in Lees Summit, still getting full speed anytime I check.

https://www.speedtest.net/result/d/2d2aa71f-c501-4dab-b7ed-f64d87d50b1b.png

What are you using to test your speeds and or where are you seeing these slow speeds at?

If you can run cables, ubiquiti access points like this: Ubiquiti Networks UniFi UAP-AC-PRO, 3dBi, 22dBm, 450Mbps, 3x3 @ 2. 4GHz & 3dBi, 22dBm, 1300Mbps, 3x3 @ 5GHz, 2xGigabit, 122m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XYQ3WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NRT497W3D8F9CZXMQH1Z

Mesh is probably easier for wireless, but these are rock solid.

You will see them labelled as multi-gig generally. They can come in 2.5g, 5g, or 10g. I'm personally using a Zyxel XGS1010-12 unmanaged switch and haven't had any issues. I think Zyxel has a 5port one that can do 2.5g but it was out of stock at the time. Trendnet has a 5 port one as well.

So this bad boy should work, right?

​

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Fiber-Optic-Patch-Cable/dp/B01GIVHQRY/ref=sr\_1\_7?dchild=1&keywords=Fiber+Patch+Cable&qid=1621106307&sr=8-7

Okay so I bonded two 1Gbps ports on a good old cisco 3750x switch from my desktop. TCP Streams only utilize one of the links at a time (so things don't arrive out of order), so with one S3 download I can get 1 Gbps, with 2 S3 download streams I get 2 Gbps total. You'll need to basically be multi tasking over bonded links to utilize the whole bandwidth. I get about 1890 Mbps during this test. One Cat 6 cable from google router to 10Gbps port on the 3750x. So yes although not perfect you can use LACP. Remember 2 Gbps is only download, upload is still 1 Gbps.

So yes It'll work, if its the only device get a new nic card or usb-c adapter and use a single Cat 6 cable to the port on the google router. Your switch must support 10 Gbps.

Check this one out, I'm also using as it's plug and play: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Multi-Gig-Protection/dp/B076642YPN?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

10 Gbps over copper is pretty cheap. LACP/LAG will depend on the device the computer is connecting to, others may have different results than me.

I think I'm answering what you're asking:

You can run a VPN client like ExpressVPN, nordvpn, etc. - this routes your traffic through a vpn provider, similar to how google fi vpn works.

If you go with a Bring Your Own Router plan, and your router supports openvpn, it's fairly easy to use one of these vpn providers at the router so your whole network traffic is over the vpn.

Google Fi VPN is currently only available for Fi subscribers on android, and soon iPhone. It is not possible to use Fi VPN with fiber at this time.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Passive-Injector-Ethernet-Supports/dp/B07KJB712X/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1BKZVA90MKLY8&dchild=1&keywords=poe+injector&qid=1610894558&sprefix=poe+inj%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-4 would get it working, as would any of the others when you search poe injector.

I have the next step up TP Link router and it works awesome. Bonus is the each mesh box has a ethernet port for a hardwire. Covers my 3600 sqft house very well with no dead spots.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089QW9957/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_IGCZFbQKQBPRE?psc=1

A) We're talking about people having an Xbox, and are reading the Google Fiber subreddit. That, alone, shoots the chances of them being tech-savvy enough to figure this out up drastically. Besides the fact that your guide involves port forwarding and utilizing the DMZ, which still requires a fair bit of networking knowledge past connecting an Ethernet cable.

B) Hardly hundreds. The GS108T is $67 on Amazon, and the Fiber Jack can be powered by a Micro USB cable. After that, any traditional router will work.

I'm happy that your solution worked, and I wasn't trying to downplay the helpfulness of your post, I'm just giving some additional context to echo most of the sentiment around here: Google's Network Box needs to support a true bridged mode so that we can have the choice of either a) not caring about it, as most folks would, or b) giving more tech-savvy users such as us more control over our network and not have to rely on shoddy equipment.

There is no bridge mode on those boxes. If you are concerned about him using it to monitor stuff just unplug it for a couple days and see if he says anything.

If its a single family place and you have access to the google box, and the fiber jack.

Buy GS108T switch Amazon Link
Set it up following this guide here

Once it is setup you can plug any router you want into the 2nd port on the switch and not have to plug the Google box into your network at all. Just throw it in a closet or something. He can log in to the account and change all the settings he wants, but it won't effect you anymore since the Google box isn't setup to receive the settings.

I use a pair of these to get wired connections out of my bedroom (where the fiber jack is) to my office and entertainment center: https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Adapter-Ethernet-Bonded-MM1000/dp/B077Y3SQXR

Assuming your apartment is set up for cable, it’s a good solution.

Yes, save that $10 a month and use your google voice # with one of these

Obihai OBi200 1-Port VoIP Adapter with Google Voice and Fax Support for Home and SOHO Phone Service, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCS1NGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y4jiFb1HHM5DF

You can port your # to google voice or get a new #

I got a managed switch cause I wanted to see some stats. And it even has a cable tester. It’s cheap so why not.

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Switch |... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K4DS5KU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Are you on a fiber jack or is the fiber going directly into your router? If you need an actually longer fiber cable, you’re looking for an SC/APC to SC/APC patch cable

https://www.amazon.com/PacSatSales-Single-SIMPLEX-Fiber-Optic/dp/B01GIV0PIQ

>u/slcKreep

I'm out in SoJo and they just trenched my street last week. I'm looking to go with ubiquiti or Netgate/pfsense. So do I just need to ask for the GOGP220C fiber jack and get the copper SFP+ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QWW79SH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1)?

From Trenching to go live, how long did it take google to get you up and running?

This is what I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-System-Router-Replacement/dp/B08GGBZNZ5

Two of them, but all these tests have been off the main router plugged into the fiber jack. Also when I plug my computer into the jack it doesn't seem to fix the issue (bypassing the router).

If you have coax cable run through the house, I've had an excellent experience with ScreenBeam extenders (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088KV2YYL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) to move hardwired signal throughout our 2 story.

>shuttered SC/APC cable

Many thanks! I used this one PacSatSales - Fiber Optic Internet Cable - Single Mode Patch Cable - SIMPLEX - OS1-9/125um (5M, SC/APC to SC/APC)

Removed the shuttered SC/APC cable entirely & inserted the one I got from Bezosland. Powered on the GFRG300 and it came right up.

Have to get the business account.

The improved customer support and no more lost connections it worth it if your doing anything that requires more dependability.

If not option two is NordVPN has a option for obtaining a dedicated IP.

I actually just did this a couple weeks ago.

I have the 2Gbps service and Fiber support couldn't tell me what sort of cable I needed. Did some research and ended up buying this cable from Amazon. Removing the existing fiber cable was a pain for some reason but the new one works great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIW2WAY/

There's no way that Google or any ISP would be able block or throttle your data while using your VPN. It's sort of an all or nothing with a VPN. You should check your configuration or your provider.

I've used ExpressVPN and Private Internet Access VPN for years without issue on any ISP including Google Fiber.

Sure! I got an ASUS RT-AX89X router and an ASUS AX1800 extender. The router is ungodly ugly, but it was a breeze to install. Just plugged everything in and put the Technicolor router in bridge mode. In order to get multigig speeds in and out, you'll need an SFP+ to RJ45 module. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-10G-T-S-Compatible-10GBase-T-Transceiver/dp/B01KFBFL16

You don't need that if you have an SFP cable already, but I didn't.

I have the new fiber jack that supports up to 2.5G. I'm running that into an SFP+ RJ45 module in the router.

I have an wireless AP in one of the ethernet ports. I have another SFP+ running to my computer.

Hmm, so. Honestly, if you have a electronics store (specifically not like a walmart with it in it)in the area I would go to it. Figure out what their return policy is, do they do open box returns? Alot will if the packaging is in good conditions. Try both. Like others have said the MoCA (Multimedia over Coaxial Alliance) so...coax... See which works best for you.

Honestly though, ethernet can be ran without having to do it through the wall if your just renting, thats what I had to do. I bought a cat6 75ft run, dont get the pretty flat ones they bad, and have it attached to my walls with something like https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Backed-Mounts-holder-Anchor-Holders/dp/B07Z79LHJC to keep it outa reach. To me spending $25 and having an exposed wire that i know will work > $50+ for adapters for either coax or powerline.

And I'm sure others will correct me, but I think cat6 can go up to like 100 meters before having huge issues.

The ethernet wire can absolutely be the cause. Get a cat 6 cable (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Black/dp/B007NZGPAY/ref=sr_1_3?c=ts&keywords=Cat+6+Ethernet+Cables&qid=1649599454&s=pc&sr=1-3&ts_id=9938478011)

Plug it directly into the multigig port of the google wifi router. Plug the other end into your computer.

​

Do your speed test. Problem should be solved.

Here is the Nick cards I used

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FB83C1H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

QNAP QXG-2G1T-I225 Single Port 2.5GbE 4-Speed Network Card. There intel based and worked with my vlans

I pretty much run all unify stuff at home and work.

I had a USG I was running.

Only real upgrade path I had was a umd pro.

I had a bunch of surplus hardware. Pfsence works well with my unifi stuff.

Are you using one of those SFP + mikrotik to RJ45 It's like 2.5 and 5 and 10 gig.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SNK1MY/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_api_i_HP9NY1QWPD1GVGJ4WR9R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

They work well.

I have got this QSFPTEK in Port 11 on the UDM. It trains as 10GB on the UDM side and negotiates a 2.5GB speed to the LAN adapter of my MB (Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero). Been running since July of 2021 w/o any issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWW79SH/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_DWAE74Z0TQ088VCQ3QZY?\_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'm not talking about the fiber jack. When you get Google Fiber they give you two of what they call google wifi pucks. You can buy extras if you want but two works for most households. Here they are on Amazon so you can see them. They are the same pucks people can purchase and they work really well.

You plug one into the fiber jack and then just plug the second into a power outlet. They take about 5 minutes to get up and running using an app on your smart phone. Each puck has an ethernet connector. So you would put the first puck wherever your fiber jack is and plug it into that. Set the second up in the bedroom where you have your computer. You can then simply connect your computer to the puck with an ethernet cable and you're ready to go. It truly is so easy to set up you won't believe it. You'll be fully up and running in 20 minutes from openings the box.

Swapped out the SFP (Using one with a Marvell 88X3310 controller, and added a Cat 7 cable (was using Cat 6, should have been fine for the 1m length for 10G, and was with the modem). Now directly connected to fiber jack and UDMP Speed tests pull 1.85G. Success!

SFP model is pseudo-generic https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQBFHNL There's quite a few options with the Marvell 88X3310 controller

I haven't seen any issues here in Lees Summit. I ran this speed test last night at 7:30pm and still getting full speeds during peak times. This speedtest is also off network but local to here in KC.

https://www.speedtest.net/result/9409465373.png

And here it is right now as I type. Exact same.

https://www.speedtest.net/result/9412116313.png

I've also noticed no packet loss or lag in any online game's I play (BFV, TF2, CS:S, and Smite).

To assist you on these issues, can you provide the following?

We need the IP address (or even what game you are playing) you are seeing packet loss and high latency, we also need a traceroute to that IP and a traceroute back to your home IP so we can see the full picture of the routing.

It looks like your PC's NIC is the common denominator that should be focused on. Like others have mentioned, stuff like this is usually a bad cable or messed up negotiation settings. But it could also be a driver bug or failing hardware.

My recommendations:

1. Uninstall the network adapter in your OS.
2. Reinstall the network adapter using the latest drivers. This should give you a clean slate with default settings. Leave auto-negotiation enabled. Leave auto-negotiation settings enabled on any other network devices.
3. Otherwise, I'd try a PCIe add-on NIC or a gigabit usb-ethernet adapter. Either is pretty cheap and will help narrow down the problem. If either of these work than you can assume your PC's built-in NIC is messed up.
4. Try different patch cables. Cat5e/Cat6 is perfectly fine for 1Gbps. There's no need to get Cat6A or higher unless you're doing 10Gbps so don't waste your money.

https://smile.amazon.com/APC-Fiber-Optic-Patch-Cable/dp/B01GIW2WAY

This should be all you need. They're just using a generic GPON Patch cable. You can disconnect the current one from both SFP ends and use a newer one.

Yeah, I suppose I should have added quite a bit more info before hitting post.

I am not using a netgate appliance. I picked up a maching from my local microCenter.

Intel Core i5 4570 3.2GHz Processor
8GB DDR3-1600 RAM
256GB SSD

I'm using the following as my NIC:
1.25G Gigabit Network Card (NIC) with Intel I350-AM4 Controller - 10/100/1000Mbps PCI Express Network Adapter Compatible for I350-T4, Quad RJ45 Ports, PCI-E 2.1 X4

I have both link lights on (green/orange) wan and lan.

I have 0 plugins installed. This is a fresh install.

Again, Wan get's access just fine. As in, pings and traceroutes all return results as quickly as I'd expect them too (< 5 seconds for 4 results).

However, LAN, does nothing. Loading FAST.com takes ~ 5 minutes to load. If it loads. And when it does load, my down is ~ 400Kbs. Upload never returns.

Don't know about that, but here's the one I've been using for over a year now, and always had my full gigabit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q87KP2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

You clearly stated your download speeds as 5Mbps upload and download. If you are paying $50 a month for 100Mbps, your speedtest should look like this.

https://www.speedtest.net/result/8820350938.png

I have limited my desktop to 100Mbps. Do you get these speeds? Can you run a speedtest and link your results?

I have this in the SFP+ WAN port: Wiitek SFP+ to RJ45 Copper Modules, 10GBase-T Transceiver Compatible for Cisco SFP-10G-T-S, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, Unifi (Cat 6a/7, 30-Meter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P39G4XJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CW7AYGB1XRSRWR4KMS1K?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Correct, Google public DNS uses anycast to route to your query to the nearest server. GRC has a fun DNS benchmark tool that will test a bunch of DNS servers using your connection and compare the response times.

https://www.grc.com/dns/benchmark.htm

By "box" I assume you mean straight from the fiber jack?

Yes, I can get net access.

https://ezgif.com/video-to-gif/ezgif-7-af0cb8dd8dd6.mov (Ignore the mess)

Windows by default prefers to use IPv6 over IPv4 if possible. You're hard-coding the v4 DNS servers but not the v6 DNS servers, so it's using the ones from Google. You need to set your IPv6 DNS servers to OpenDNS as well. Addresses are here https://www.opendns.com/about/innovations/ipv6/

Funny thing... Turns out if I set any VLAN tags the WAN connection fails entirely. Troubleshot this for like 2 hours before finally a factory reset and noticed before I touched anything my connection was working just fine! Apparently, in my market, Google isn't requiring VLAN tagging? Cool!

For speeds... I can't give an apples to apples comparison just now. DSLReports isn't letting me see the graphic... the link should be http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest/48120034.png in case it ever comes back to life. Ookla's test, on the other hand, has always shown better speeds. so the numbers look better but they are consistent with what I was seeing with the Network box. https://www.speedtest.net/result/8160082374.png

I’m sorry I should have specified that I am on the google mesh WiFi and I have no router that was provided by google.

I just brought these not to long ago

Ethernet Cable, VANDESAIL CAT7 Network Cable RJ45 High Speed STP LAN Cord Gigabit 10/100/1000Mbit/s Gold Plated Lead (2m/ 6.5ft, Black-2pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013W0ARNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XDEA2S4XJ0DR8PDZCRQH?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

TRENDnet 5-Port Unmanaged Gigabit GREENnet Desktop Metal Switch, Ethernet-Network Switch, 5 x Gigabit Ports, Fanless, 10 Gbps Switching Fabric, Lifetime Protection, Black, TEG-S50g https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001QUA6R0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_27372Y08VMZ8BWN1C2KZ

Are you cool with your neighbors? Tell your neighbor to upgrade to 2Gb and split the cost. Run an ethernet cable between.

Yeah, basically when the tech initially installed the ONT, he screwed it into the back of the OnQ enclosure (in my foyer closet) which then went into the drywall on the other side of the wall which is a wall in the garage and now the tip of the screw is peaking out the wall. Not really a big deal, but being the obsessive compulsive type that I am I bought a proper mounting plate for the OnQ enclosure (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKR4MH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) so I can properly mount the jack without worrying about the drywall. Eventually, I have to do drywall work in the garage anyways because when the installer came out he tacked the optical cable along the top of the wall from the NIU outside the house to OnQ panel where all of my networking is, which required two holes in the walls of the garage. My house is on a concrete slab and I don't have a crawl space. The long term plan is to buy another long optical cable and fish it inside the wall and ceiling of the garage. Step #1 is to get the Fiber Jack on a proper mounting plate....

I use the standard Google Wifi pucks they provide and get fantastic wifi speeds through my entire house. They provide you with two of them free. You can buy any additional ones you want or need on Amazon or Ebay where they go for about $20 cheaper. I got their two which in theory covers a 3,000 square foot house. My house is 3,000 square foot so I bought a third one just to be sure.

You're much better off buying some OPNsense/pfsense router that can take a BCM57810S (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHGFD69) add-in card and using my method here. You'd spend about the same (or even less, depending on if you have hardware already) but get a more powerful routing/firewall (feature-wise) edge device.

> Do you know if I can use the GF SFP Transceiver as-is to plug into the XG-16?

For whatever you'd plug it into, yes, it's a GPON single-mode fiber connection that's converted into an SFP+ module, so whatever takes an SFP+ will be able to use it.

Awesome, thanks. Would this model work for that setup?

If you're still on a network box, then you should call / chat into support and ask to be upgraded to GWiFi. They can send you a self install kit.

GWiFi pucks only have 2 Ethernet ports on them, so you'll want to have something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_NQS9MBJSPBMP3005JC0T to connect to your Ethernet ports. The 2nd GWiFi puck can connect to the other end of one of your Ethernet ports and function as a mesh WiFi extender.

Oh and I replaced the short cord they supply with a 3$ one delivered next day from Amazon.

Optical SNS SC/UPC to SC/APC OS2 Simplex Single Mode 9/125 Patch Cord 5M/15ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWPFW4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KX7DW1QDR5JYZ9EY9168?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

> What you advised isn't possible because he literally refused to/said that the 2gb connection would not be directed to our other ethernet outlets and only the normal 1000Mb connection would.

I'm not sure what that means. The gateway they provide has a 2Gbps/1Gbps fiber connection coming into the box, but also has a 10Gb RJ45 connection that can be output to a device internally (along with the other 1Gb connections). Both the Gigabit and 10Gb connections come from the same gateway. You can simply move the plug from the Gigabit connection to the 10Gb one.

You mentioned you have "wall sockets" which are most likely some sort of RJ45 connection (what people refer to as "Ethernet"). If so, they're most likely Cat 5E or newer, which will do speeds up to 10Gb over 30-35-40m.

If you're referring to the devices themselves, then you'll need something that can take an RJ45 connection at whatever speed you want to negotiate at. Some sort of PCI-e card that accepts 2.5Gbps, 5Gbps or 10Gbps, depending on what kind of connection you have.

If you need a switch, that's where you run into cost issues. 2.5Gb and higher RJ45 switches aren't quite cheap yet. Your cheapest option is to get a Mikrotik CRS305 or 309 (depending on how many ports you need) and insert 10Gb RJ45 SFP+ modules to use for whatever devices you need it for.

Something like this for each port you'd need on the Mikrotik to be used.

Yeah - here is the link to the SFPs I used in the UDM to uplink to 10G - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5LIUK5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I've been using this with my September 2020 new install: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q87KP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_YcpbGbETSXN6Z?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Tech who installed told me it didn't work with POE, but I already have it, and plugged it in as soon as he left. Working fine since.

I used a couple of MOCA adapters[0] and re-purposed the coax already in the house since I no longer used it for TV. I also happened to have coax already where I needed the Ethernet. The speed was not measurably slower.

[0] not exactly these but similar: https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG

I would have loved to have the Gb plan, but I can't justify the extra cost.

I was trying to ask about the specific router listed here, if it is a good one for use with GoogleFiber.

I don't really need the 3rd unit, and the new version with 2 units is about the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Deco-Whole-System-S4/dp/B08B3QNN9P/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=7V3QCFX10E565978M1ND

Good idea u/meandrunkR2D2!

You can drop the network box now that you don’t have the TV plan anymore. There is a “I’ll provide my own router” option under manage my plan which lets you plug directly into the fiber jack (be sure to power it via the micro USB port). Only do this once you have your own router. I use and recommend getting 2 eero pros. There are new WiFi 6 models coming out in Nov. that will faster than the current generation - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085VNCZHL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eY-HFbAP63P8V

I'm using the Asus RT-AX3000 and it's been working well, even when I had it previously bridged. Highly recommend the router or really any of the WiFi 6 Asus routers.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084BNH26P?pf_rd_r=X4KD258YE79H1MDT1Z2T&amp;pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee

I've re-run the fiber from the dmarc to another location after they strung the fiber across the roof. (I ran through the attic, under eaves, instead of along the gutter and over the roof and through an exterior wall...) You just need to make sure to have the right cable. I re-ran with this cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VVPNDYW. I don't like that particular cable, because as one mentioned, it is NOT armored, but it does work for me.

My personal setup ran to a keystone jack instead of installing the fiber jack on the wall https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062NCK84

Ok thanks... that's a bit disappointing. Yeah I have taken it apart, was trying to figure out what that little green connector was called, looks like the answer is GPON... and there are GPON modules but you are right in that all I have found so far says they are UPC... I would not even have caught that.

For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UFIBER-GPON-OLT/dp/B078XR965G

Remember that the current revision of the Network Box was made more than 4 years ago. Back then, the average number of devices was much less. The number of IoT devices have exploded in the last 5 years, so, yes, the Network Box really isn't up-to-date anymore, which is why new customers get Google WiFi instead.

Your WiFi life would be so much better if you got a better router (one with more antennas to handle more devices). I switched to using my own router and it's so much better than the Network box. The included routers with ISPs are never really that great, at least Google Fiber doesn't charge you a monthly fee for the rental.

About your home phone: Depending on how you use it, there's many alternatives than having Fiber phone. If you just use it as a junk number you give to random companies, getting rid of Fiber phone will still let you use your Google Voice number since it's attached to your Google account. If you want something you can make calls from at home (ex. for Kids), if you have an Amazon Echo/Google Home, they can make calls for free (no 911 though). Or if you really need a physical phone, then you could get a device like this and basically have phone service for free (still no 911 though).

My go-to recommendation is the Onhub router.

Downsides:

• it's old, so it doesn't get feature updates anymore.
• It can mesh with other Google WiFi or another onhub, but not the new Nest WiFi.
• AC Wifi (also called WiFi 5), not the newest AX (WiFi 6). Most of your devices probably don't have WiFi 6 but your future devices will.

Upsides:

• Used to cost $200, now you can get on Amazon for about $70, or even cheaper if looking for local deals (craigslist, FB market). '
• TP-Link model as 13 antennas or Asus model has 7 (v.s. the 3 in the Network Box) so way better at simultaneous usage.
• 2500 sqft advertised range, can mesh if more range is needed
• Easy to set up with app
• features like guest wifi, pausing devices, and priority device modes
• looks nice imo

I've had mine for several years and it's been a great performer for me. 20~ devices on my network, no problem.

However, if you're current Fiber Jack is on one side of the house, I would run an ethernet cable from there to the center of the home so you get better coverage. You may see a big difference just by doing that. And you can get cable ties to hide the cable.

I have Actiontec ECB6200, they look to be discontinued at B&H but still available from Amazon. B&H was a good bit cheaper when I bought mine.

Hey there. I install fiber for att and you want a sc connector fiber jumper. This one off Amazon should work fine. PacSatSales - Fiber Optic Patch Cable - Single Mode - SIMPLEX - OS1-9/125um (10M, SC/APC to SC/APC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GIWE88S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.kK6EbY858MEZ

I turned off wifi then purchased a UAP-AC-LR-US. Used POE and mounted it to the ceiling in the center of the house. The AP is set for 5G only. I then found I had a couple of 2.4Ghz only devices so I turned the 5G off on the network box and set a separate SSID for the network box for those devices only. It greatly improved speed and connectivity across all devices.

I picked up one of these so that my wifi would reach my garage and I haven't had any problems out of it. It doesn't force you to make a separate wifi network with this one either, which is one of the reasons that I bought. Set up is simple (roughly 15 minutes w/ testing), and it supports both 2.4ghz and 5ghz.

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Multimedia-Wireless-Extender-Transmitter/dp/B07L9723ZF/ref=sr_1_2?gclid=CjwKCAiAis3vBRBdEiwAHXB29C1Y-rWH4OmtW32f2ALngOEa7ft7nrcIGjSbS_btOvhJazeQfB0yHBoC98EQAvD_BwE&amp;hvadid=174254070479&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvlocphy=9013193&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t2&amp;hvqmt=b&amp;hvrand=2999049994261491823&amp;hvtargid=aud-840076997981%3Akwd-17796440388&amp;hydadcr=19107_9441144&amp;keywords=hdmi+wireless+kit&amp;qid=1576260862&amp;sr=8-2

Could try using this.

&#x200B;

Another alternative would be using like an Apple TV, mounting it behind the television and downloading the individual channel app for the ones you using. And putting the Fiber TV Box in another room for a television that isn't mounted on the wall.

Or I would just pay for YouTube TV and save yourself $40 a month.

If wireless turns out to be a flakey solution your wife might find it acceptable if you use a small paintable, plastic raceway to hide a cord for the TV. We used this one in my mom's 1890's house, https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EA3P2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1. It looks like it's part of the baseboard so isn't noticeable and it was super easy to install.

Use the Hotspot Shield browser plugin to bypass this. Servers can hit almost 1Gbps and theres no limits. Privacy policy states they do not keep any personal info about you or your internet usage when using the service.

That's because the fiber jack runs on PoE (power over ethernet), so the device you get needs to support it.

Something like this will ~~not only let you power your Fiber Jack, but it'll~~ let you use a third-party router as well (as long as you don't need other services like TV or Phone).

Edit: Switch doesn't have PoE, so you'll need a PoE injector, another switch that's managed and does provide PoE, or a micro USB.

If you have a newer fiber jack, you can also power it through the Micro USB port on top.

So I wanted to make sure that I could remove all possible issues with my computer, so I reinstalled windows... No-dice. So I ordered a new nic to see if I can pinpoint the issue. I also ordered a poe injector, so I can try and set up my personal router instead of the google fiber box.

Your best bet is to get a security appliance that does VPN whatever and then place a switch behind that. Any device connected to that switch would be on the VPN tunnel. I think the Ubiquiti UniFi Security Applicane may be what you need. However, I have no professional experience or colleague feedback on this device, so I cannot say for certain.

If you had the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter, you could initiate the same kinds of ipsec traffic from within, but you'd also need to get an external Access Point for wifi, as I don't believe you can use the Network Box as a local mode AP. If you have the TV service and the new equipment where the storage and network box are married, all of this becomes a much more complicated setup.

I don't think the extra hop on the interface in example one would have that much of an impact or degradation on traffic, as the NATing would be handled by the security appliance. Maybe DMZ that reserved address to overcome any issues.

/u/comptech. Thoughts? Any experience with that appliance?

> Do you know if we could pay to upgrade to the 200 series network boxes? Are those even out in the field anywhere? I'd love to abandon the crappy 100 series interface.

Do you have the TV service with the Network Box separate from the Storage Box? If so, Good News! You can use your own router/gateway. A buddy of mine uses the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite, a basic multiport gig-e switch, and a couple Ubiquiti APs. There's a really simple config to get this up and running.

Ok, cool. This same thing can be done with this switch: http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Prosafe-Gs108Tv2-8-Port-Gigabit/dp/B003GOFIC2

Or one that has similar capabilities (vlans, CoS and etc). If you go that route you can use pretty much any high-end router you want. Currently i have a special vlan setup on my 48 port Nortel managed switch at home and use pfsense as my router. The Edgerouter's were just meant to make it easier and have a drop-in replacement for less tech-savvy people.