What are /r/Suddenlink's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Downstream power is super high, SNR is too low. Lot of uncorrectables. Sounds weird, but I would get like an 8 db coax attenuator and throw that on the line to see if it helps.

I've tried looking for the login info and the Altice website says it lists them, but nothing is there.😅 As far as modem stats go, I'm not entirely sure I follow what you mean. I've done speed tests and have my phone connected to the wifi with an app called Speedify running in the background that tells me if there's any loss or anything like that and the speed is on point. Just keeps randomly disconnecting.

Using a 1Gb/50Mbps Suddenlink business connection, wired directly, specifically throttled to 500Mbps/50Mbps on my side to avoid bufferbloat: https://www.speedtest.net/my-result/d/0f63a520-0e4c-4408-bfb7-1379ab9a29d2

Passthrough modems are recommended, yes. Arris Surfboards are great. I believe this is the one I have (bought from my local Walmart a couple years ago). https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-Approved-SB8200-Frustration/dp/B07DY16W2Z

I would then, on your choice of router, setup DNS servers of preferred choice. Most are fine with Cloudflare (1.1.1.1) and Google (8.8.8.8). Others will chose something more specific with various reasons.

Just found this answer:
"SD Cards Have Special Software That Communicates Back To The Box To Enable The Live Rewind and Where To Store The Video You Just Buffered! Plus You Don't Pay Any Extra For The Cards Each Month from Optimum."

Standalone modem + router is the best option - you have many more router options, plus if there's an issue with one of them then you don't need to replace both.

Modem: CM600 - it's the best non-gigabit option (for gigabit you'd want a DOCSIS 3.1 modem even though they're on 3.0, because all the 32 channel modems have a hardware bug called Puma6, but the 3.1 modems are more expensive). Alternatively you could continue to rent a modem from Suddenlink, but it's cheaper long term to own one.

Router is a lot trickier - you can spend anywhere from $100-500 (reasonably). It partially depends on your house - is it big enough that you need multiple wifi access points? If so, the easy option is a mesh system, but the best option is wired access points. Take a look at various reviews and find a model that fits your price, complexity, and performance level. With most modern routers you will likely see full speed (300Mbps+) when you're close to the router (assuming the client device is capable), but more expensive routers may have better long range performance, and of course higher performance in general - potentially higher than your plan. Also keep in mind that the more wifi interference you have (dense neighborhoods, etc), the shorter your effective range will be, and the more likely that you may need multiple access points. 5GHz channels will have less interference and higher performance than 2.4GHz, but are shorter range.

Also would you go with this kind of cable? Or would you run the quad? Can’t afford to have an electrician come out so it looks like this will be my weekend project 😒

Having your own modem and router, not a combo, is a great choice to make when it comes to ISPs, including Suddenlink. It keeps Suddenlink out of your network setup, and gives you full control, as well as quickly and easily determining if the internet issues is your side or theirs, just by plugging a computer to the modem, and removing the router entirely. Let alone when Suddenlink wants to "reset" the modem, you're not worrying about a "factory reset" to your network setup on the router side of things.

For the record, I do not work for any ISP. I work for a small MSP IT Shop, who on occasion deal with ISPs on client's behalf.

The modem I use, and setup with some of my work's home and business clients: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-Approved-SB8200-Frustration/dp/B07DY16W2Z

As for a router, a TPLink or Netgear (nighthawk I like) will do great. If you need to extend your wifi range, for best performance, though repeaters and boosters do extend but slow down and create latency on the network, a Mesh setup is the best option. Mesh is much like cell towers, as you move between the towers, and don't even know you changed network access points.

Dude, do what I did contact FCC and use something like http://loggger.com/ which you can set to test your speed every 15 minutes etc just and it will show the times it runs like crap also save screenshots of all of it to show and go to suddenlink site and take screen shot of your plan of what your supposed to get for speed. File complaint with FCC with a month or so of these screen shots showing your speed is wrong or frame rate drops anything you can to show its not right and send that all in with the complaint. They will contact suddenstink and they willl be given 30 days to respond to you. Usually a supervisor will end up calling you and its probably same as my issue what happens, is the sales team doesn't think about the fact that one node can only carry so much bandwidth at a time just because its capable of certain speeds for one person doesn't mean every person on the fastest plan can use max speed at same time, so it trys to load balance and it juts get congestion because its more bandwidth than the one node can handle. I can tell you it may take a year for it to get solved but keep doing the logs they will lie on the phone to you and the techs that come to your house cannot even work on the node so you need it ESCALATED to line technicians or supervisor only explain that your node is overloaded and needs to be resectioned or possibly another needs to installed they are expensive so they will try to weasle out of it for sure. But that is what i did and the next step was formal and suddenlink knew they would lose so they finally did it plus in my state its one party consent so i recorded all my phone calls too so just in case i had to go to court i could prove they made promises and did not keep any of them. Just keep at em and keep in contact with the FCC thru the process or it will never be fixed. When I was done they ran fiber out here added a node and resectioned the old one.

u/HotRodNerd I don't actually think the CM600 has the chip (I think its only the CM700) but best to steer clear no matter what.

I have Suddenlink 400mbps and switching from an Arris dual modem/router to a Motorola modem and ASUS router. They are arriving today so I'll let you know how they are.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077BL65HS/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082G2KS7K/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Absolutely. I haven't had a company supplied modem in 15 years.

Modems come in several versions, capable of different maximum supported speeds. The CM1000 is what I would buy if I wanted a modem only (and still needed to supply my own router): https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Cable-Modem-CM1000-Compatible/dp/B0781VN7W5/

At the rate suddenlink leases their equipment, this model pays for itself in two years.

If I was shopping for a combo unit (modem & router/wifi) I would look very closely at something like https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-MG8702-MU-MIMO-Approved-Xfinity/dp/B08DL4QB25 . I don;t have gigabit service so I haven't looked into it but this seems like a capable device.

I went back and looked at your earlier post about the modem logs. Suddenlink doesn't have the ability to block access to the modem log. The communication is between your device and the port side of the modem. Suddenlink won't even update customer owned modem firmware.

I once had the same exact problem you described with my laptop. I couldn't check modem logs or even use hotel guest wi-fi. I could connect to my home network and hotspot off my phone. It turned out a bug in NordVPN was the culprit.

2 new routers? Are these rented combo devices?

Also any reasonably priced UPS is going to be a standby device and still has a reaction time to power issues. While I doubt it’s power, you would need an “online” UPS to rule it out. Very expensive. APC UPS 1000VA Smart-UPS Single Phase Online Uninterruptible Power Supply (SRT1000XLA),black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MJDZCK/

When I had a similar problem (30-60 minutes outages every 2-3 days) I added a 50mbps line from AT&T and setup a Linux computer as my firewall with failover. But this was very complicated (I also had Netflix and YouTube going over cable, zoom and most games on DSL...)

I guess the real suggestion is to truly rule anything out on your end that you can, and switch to the much slower telco carrier if that doesn’t work.

I would not remove those unsightly splitters, I know they look horrendous, but they serve a purpose. I assume this is for a modem as the other ports are terminated, these are unbalanced 3-way splitters and the high loss legs (-7 db) are being used, which is effectively attenuating the forward signal by 14 db.

It is also attenuating the return path back to the CMTS in the Headend which is what your modem is communicating with. If the return level is too low the modem will have trouble staying online.

The return path runs in the lower portion of the spectrum and is way more susceptible to noise. I like to use the analogy of talking in a large room where a lot of people are talking, your modem has to "talk" loud enough for the CMTS to hear it from across the room.

So the extra 14dbs of attenuation forces the modem to talk louder so the CMTS will hear it.

Here are some inline "pencil pads" you can use instead of the splitters.

https://www.amazon.com/Ancable-F-Type-Signal-Attenuator-2-Pack/dp/B074K9LLLW/ref=pd_sbs_23_4/140-5285545-3546149?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B074K9LLLW&pd_rd_r=bc406b8e-b2d4-4647-b038-d220efa4847d&pd_rd_w=a9L2v&pd_rd_wg=vQNLw&pf_rd_...

I don't have a suggestion for iOS, I do have one I use for Android. Results vary from Android to Android model phones. I've used three different phones, all three I've had to tweak the quality of the sound, and different results with switching speaker, bluetooth, and normal. My new phone had/has (still figuring it out) one sided recordings if I switch in or out of bluetooth.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appstar.callrecorder&hl=en_US

I use the free version. I have it set that when I save a recording, it send it to my dropbox.

Docsis 3 or 3.1 will do. There's models using a type of chip I suggest avoiding. I don't recall which, however there are mentions through this subreddit that suggest which to use, which to avoid.

As for routers, I've been happy with TPLink and NetGear.

Unfortunately Suddenlink is a monopoly in that area. There really is no other choice than something like AT&T or Frontier, but from what I understand they are even worse.

As I said, NordVPN did help me with my ping issues, but using a VPN shouldn't be a solution. Suddenlink needs to fix their routing or something. It MAY be worth calling them and having a tech check your line. In my new area, we were getting packet drops and high ping randomly. It turns out the cable needed replacing.

I have Spectrum now, but it is not available in your area :(

Depending on your state, or states you visit as you mentioned you were driving, you can record your calls, as long as you look up their call recording laws.

I know in KS and OK, and at some point someone said also TX, as long as one party of the recording is aware, all is good. You don't even have to say or signify you are recording.

I have no recommendation for iOS, however for android, I use Automatic Call Recorder. It's free, and recordings you save, it can upload to YOUR choice of cloud storage. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appstar.callrecorder

I use the free version, and does just fine. The only hiccup I've had, is when I switched bluetooth headsets, I had to change audio profiles, as only one side of the conversation was recorded. No clue how long that went before I noticed, and that wass my only conclusion.

I've never had a call back. Exception of the automated call, saying my internet was back up, an hour or so after I already found out.

If you're on Android, I use Automatic Call Recorder. Just set it up to record automatically. Then save calls you feel is needed. Old recordings will roll over. Bonus points: If you use a cloud storage (dropbox, one drive, iCloud, etc.), you can have it upload saved recordings. Note: Test the audio settings. When I switched phones, the default settings that worked on my old phone, didn't work on my new phone, resulting in one sided conversations. Not the App's fault, it's a hardware and OS limitation from what I've found out.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appstar.callrecorder&hl=en_US

On iPhones... I don't have a solution. I've asked around, so I would have something to recommend, but no one has suggested anything.

Again, I must say this, as I do not want to be legally liable. Confirm with your state's laws about recording conversations. It's a quick google search, at least it was for me when I googled for Oklahoma and Kansas.

I have Suddenlink too. I got a new modem and router a few months ago. Both have worked great.

My modern=NETGEAR Cable Modem CM600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGZBCKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_8N2Vn6pn6yQuZ

My router=TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UVniFbHWAMVTX

Netgear is a great choice. This is what I use. My Modem and My router. I have a 400mbps connection and pay $60.60 a month. We stream everything and I've never had an issue with lag, not even with movies or videos buffering. I'd recommend getting a modem/router setup like mine rather than an all in one box deal. The modem/routers often overheat from my experience.

Set up your router to run everything through a VPN service (a reputable service like Private Internet Access costs less than $40/year) so Suddenlink can't snoop on your traffic.

I'm not saying you're doing anything wrong, but kids do stupid things and people log into access points without permission. Better safe than sorry!

> Their "sales" folks are pretty much just glorified customer service reps and only give me canned responses.

From very recent experiences, I've been able to get by these people by being nice, asking questions, if they hesitate a lot and have to step away to find answers, ask, again nicely, for a supervisor as you would like to know what can be done to actually have internet. You may have to state you don't mind paying the cost of having a line ran if necessary. You would at least be able to get a quote.

I heavily suggest getting a call recording app (check your state's laws on recording conversations) to record your call. I (android phone) personally use Automatic Call Recorder. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appstar.callrecorder. I use the free version, and I have it set to record all calls, in and out. When I need to save a call, I select the recording, save, give it a note. You can also have it send a copy to your dropbox, or similar. It will rollover old recordings when a limit is reached to make room for new. Either that is a time frame or number of recordings.

You'd be surprised when you tell a rep you have a recording of when you were promised something, and it's not being met, when they refuse to go through with it later.