This book is written by Richard Cadena, who is the technical editor of Lighting and Sound America. It will answer virtually every question you've asked in your post, and it will also help you stay safe on the job. Worth every penny.
​
EDIT: Submit your questions for Richard's r/livesound Q+A here.
The squeaky wheel gets the grease. Call every-day, and inquire. Call TSA, call your airline, call the airports. I didn't have anything stolen, but going home from New Mexico my case was passed off to local PD for drug enforcement and they disassembled a my rack, mixer, and router. Took me about 3-4 months to get a claim check from my airline.
There are some other good suggestions on what to do with your pelican in the future, but this is what I do now. After packing it up, I take a photo of the inside contents. Then I seal with with a security seal: https://www.amazon.com/AOMGD-Pull-Tite-Security-Seal-Package/dp/B008CFSH50 and sign my initials on the tab.
When using TSA locks or plain zip ties about 80% of the time my pelican was inspected; with missing or damaged locks. When using security seals my case is inspected only about 25% of the time now. As soon as I pull it from baggage claim I can see if the seal is missing, if it's missing I POP it open right there and inspect for missing/damaged items before I leave the airport. Also since using security seals, when it's inspected the broken seal is always taped to the inspection note inside the case and TSA re-zip ties the outside.
> FOH work gloves.
that link started as more of a joke, but you're looking to mix with gloves on? dare i ask why? in watching, working with, touring with, etc 1000's of engineers, i've never seen a single one leave gloves on to work with the console.
I'm gonna be that guy...
Buy a proper set of cutters/strippers and a decent portable screwdriver set...Wera do a great one
I also have a leatherman Wave and Surge and barely touch them compared to the above.
It's perfect for cutting tie-line or plastic wrap to cover gear at outdoor shows. Not a necessity because a lot of us already carry a knife but I think it's cool nonetheless. Get the 5-pack and keep one in your bag, peli, shop, car, or give them to your stagehands.
Ouch. We do a panel with 5-6 school administrators every year and I have been giving them lav mics attached to ties, shirt collars, dress collars, what have you, but they constantly turn their heads and brush their beards and clothing on them while talking. it was killing me and the student who is assigned to run sound for these presentations. Finally, I just bought cheapish headset mics and slipped them on over their ears. Some of them were slightly embarrassed to wear such an obvious mic, commenting on how they looked like they were Madonna in a concert, but the boom could be adjusted in the perfect place and they could all be heard perfectly.
Now I use them for our TEDX student shows and they have been perfect.
These are the ones I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YAR24E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Surprisingly good sound if you are just doing a talking head.
http://www.mikrotik.com/ is the manufacturer, http://routerboard.com/RBMetal5SHPn looks like the WiFi gear in question.
edit: adding MFG descriptor:
The new, completely waterproof, rugged, and super high powered RouterBOARD Metal. The serious outdoor wireless device!
Fully sealed, industrial design metal case, powered by RouterBOARD and RouterOS. 1300mW of output power - to reach the last mile, in any conditions! It comes with L4 license, so you can attach your favorite 5Ghz antennna to use it as an AP, to make wireless point-to-point links or as a CPE- whatever you prefer!
It has a built-in N-male connector, and pole attachment points, so you can attach it to an antenna directly, or use a standard antenna cable. LED signal indicators make it easy to install and align.
Package contains Metal-5SHPn, mounting loops, PoE injector, power adapter
Why not buy a Kill-A-Watt?
It seems it would be less dangerous.
When you cover parts of mics, you change the polarity (aka "pickup pattern") of the mic, and not always in the way you would expect. That's as likely to make the mic omnidirectional as it is to reject rear noise. You also create a surface that generates very early reflections, which will most likely sound awful.
The AT4040 is a cardioid mic, meaning it already rejects sound coming from directly behind it. It would be safer for you to just leave it uncovered.
You could rig up something like this. That avoids the polarity issues by giving a bit of space between it and the mic. It has some early reflection issues, but not as bad as foam right on the mic would.
Yup. This is one that's probably of reputable quality.
It just passively splits the mono signal at the tip to both the tip and ring, but going into a headphone amp like that any gain reduction from the split wouldn't be a problem.
I don't really like having adapters hanging out of things like that, so if this is going to be (semi-)permanently connected I'd look at finding or making a cable that did it rather than relying on an adapter.
sound system engineering by davis sits somewhere between yahama and sound systems: design and optomization
https://www.amazon.com/Sound-System-Engineering-4e-Fourth/dp/0240818466
not quiet the bible, but fills out a bookshelf nicely
Automated Performer Flying: The State of the Art https://www.amazon.com/dp/081535214X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7BNYJ0605MHYXD19PK83 Jim shumway at TAIT is responsible for it. He literally wrote the book on it (no affiliation just a friend).
Also having been on one of the shows the TAIT show was on they missed the most interesting part of the story for the sake of manufactured drama.
Mixing Station. It's made by a third-party developer but it's good enough that Behringer links to his app on their download page.
I bought this book
Live Sound Reinforcement (Mix Pro Audio Series) 1st Edition
and it helped me out with some of the fundamentals. It may be lacking in some of the modern computer interface topics -- there are other related books on Amazon.
plenty of info online also
https://www.google.com/search?q=learn+about+live+sound&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
Your 3.5mm (1/8") TRS jack on your phone is analog. This is SPDIF (digital), so you need an A/D converter that outputs SPDIF. If it's not really consequential, a cheap A to D from Amazon should do the trick.
Straight to the point frequency analyser. Great for finding that frequency that's feeding back when you're under pressure.
Congrats! Everyone here keeps saying iPad but I've used both an iPad and an Android tablet (not even something new... an Asus Nexus 7, from 2013) and it's night and day, unofficial Android app for the win. The graphic design is a joke in comparison, but the usability is miles ahead.
Free, with additional accounting, credit card processing, and payroll services for a fee. Able to sync bank accounts for your accounting needs and receipt tracking. Have used it for a few years without any major issues.
One company I work for uses a site/app called When I Work - http://wheniwork.com
As an employee, I really like it.
Another company uses When To Work - https://whentowork.com
...which I get confused with When I Work sometimes, and as a user, it's pretty crappy.
I find this mini ratchet set invaluable, it has the most common sizes and is tiny and lightweight. I’ve had mine for over 10 years and use it all the time.
Is there a usable portable SPL meter on amazon that I can buy that's decently priced? I'm looking at this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076F4YBLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zxBPBb0637QE5
I just recently bought this one and so far it has been working out nicely. It has a shoulder strap that you could use or not use. The edges are rubber so it doesn’t slide around if you set it down or stand it up. Overall I would highly recommend.
Do you encode on a laptop or a hardware encoder? I know it's got a bit of a prosumer vibe to it but I've had a ton of success with Speedify bonding several connections, ethernet + Wifi + USB cellular.
Looked at the manual and it looks like the VI3000 doesn't have the ability to record any audio to a USB flashdrive.
All the USB ports are either to connect a keyboard or to connect a flashdrive to save/import show files.
I think you're only option is to have an external recorder. I'd recommend the Tascam DR-05.
It's around $100 from amazon and a small external recorder will be a great addition to your personal kit.
Good luck, sorry I couldn't help out more.
Get Mixing Station for Android. Has a matrix patch like Yamaha.
I used to put my tablet in follow mode and place it on the display. Instant touch screen EQs and a variety of other things. Best $5 I ever spent.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.davidgiga1993.mixingstation
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.davidgiga1993.mixingstationpro
A $100 android tab will do that job on a X32 much better than an iPad will and also save you a lot of money.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.davidgiga1993.mixingstation&hl=en
dLive came back from tour for update to v1.8.
I'm using a Dell Latitude, though the Precision and the HP elitebook/Zbooks are also a good pick. Someone's gonna suggest thinkpads but I would steer away from them, long ago Lenovo got caught injecting malware that was the Superfish incident. Later on this carried to the BIOS level so that even if you try to remove it on the HDD level, the next time it boots it will install itself again on the BIOS level.
Agreed. Consistency on color temp between lights is terrible. But I have 4 that are all bright and going on 18 months of use/loaning to people/etc. Also battery life(single AA) is great.
These are also great for venues with crappy run lights, magnetic back, good quality.
Nebo Larry https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007M0JSWW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rUXOub192SS0Q
The S21 has 48 flexi inputs and 24 flexi outputs. The IO on the console is 24x12. Check out the official brochure for more info. http://issuu.com/digico_brochures/docs/digico_s21_preliminary_brochure/3?e=1210205/12405218
Ableton Live is probably what you're looking for. I'm not sure exactly what you can do with separate applications, but typically you'll have all your source files within an ableton session and you can set up a variety of different triggers for them. You'll need to get some sort of interface to do any multi-channel stuff, though.
I'm not quite following what you mean by 'catching' with one computer then recording to another... but, if you just need to do simple recordings, the easiest option is probably Audacity: http://www.audacityteam.org/
But stability can be an issue if you are just using the built-in sound card on your computer.
Can you explain the setup a bit better?
Is it microphone, to a mixer, to an audio in on the computer?
And what's it broadcast for? Podcast?
I work in IT and was somewhat interested in this story when it came out, I can probably give you a bit of info on it, but first, in the article itself:
>A federal investigation of the Gaylord Opryland Resort and Convention Center in Nashville found that Marriott employees had used "containment features of a Wi-Fi monitoring system" at the hotel to prevent people from accessing their own personal Wi-Fi networks.
Basically they were using their WiFi APs (Access Points) to send deauthenticate signals to all the other devices in the area that weren't connected to their network (by spamming deauth signals to every other AP device in the area.) I kind of wonder if setting your cell phones tethering AP to the same SSID would have 'fixed' the problem (probably not as they likely did it with a white list of 'known good' MAC addresses.) You can read some about that type of 'attack' here and there is a guide to using aircrack to send deauth signals here (worth giving a read-through), or search Google for 'WiFi deauth' or 'WiFi deauth attack'.
This is completely different from good old-fashioned analogue jamming, which is just overpowering a radio signal. That takes out your own operations on those channels, too, which isn't something you want if you plan to use them. WiFi 'jamming' is primarily used in situations where maintaining network security is important, and could be used to keep unknown devices out of the area.
Buy this thingy!! I keep one in my stage kit. It works great and I use it all the time
Reliance Controls Ammeter and Wattmeter THP103 AmWatt Appliance Load Tester/Plug, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G7TKCG/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_CqRR83iGg4Qgf
Hmm.. well I don’t know how I never thought to search for a soft case but it appears that Gator already makes one!
Gator Cases Padded Large Format Mixer Carry Bag; Fits Mixers Such as Behringer X32 | 36" x 21" x 8" (G-MIXERBAG-3621) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ND0UX5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BQ5RAWRFPWZYAP2GB1PJ
That may be just what I’m looking for.
Instead of guess work and calculations get an Electricity Usage Monitor like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU
Set everything up like you will during the show and play at the volume you'll play at. I think you'll find the electricity usage much less than the peak numbers. Make sure the generator is only for sound and doesn't share power with lights or anything else.
Unfortunately my budget is only gonna be a couple hundred bucks since this will likely be a one off show, but after a bit more research my current plan is use a couple small LyxPro monitors (https://www.amazon.com/LyxPro-SPA-5-5-Speaker-Amplifier-Powerful/dp/B01IFIEHPM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=lyxpro+small+pa&qid=1623689934&sr=8-5) and chaining them together, do you think that would work with the Knox?
I'm gonna be playing a small outdoor house show for the 4th of july and I'm looking to add a monitor or two to my Knox dual speakers/mixer (https://www.amazon.com/Knox-Dual-Speaker-Mixer-Kit/dp/B07N7D9XWD), would I just need a couple of RCA to XLR cables to accomplish that? Any advice or gear recommendations welcome!
You did not state, but I'm assuming you want 4 handheld mics?
I'd really look at raising your budget. That budget would barely get you 4 wired mics.
The cheapest option I'd go with is two Shure BLX288/SM58 Dual Channel Wireless Microphone Systems, but that's still $1,300.
Speaking from personal experience, it is well worth the investment. I have a small PA setup that I use a wireless mic with. It was a nightmare using the cheap option that I started with. I then upgraded to the single mic version of the above system and it works very well. There have been a few times where I ran into interference issues that I'm sure I would not have run into with the step up from it, but it works fine 95+% of the time for me.
I'm finding it harder and harder to get wired ethernet access at venues...I guess that's a symptom of wifi getting better and better. Some folks don't even know where the ports are anymore lol.
Even when the venue internet seems good enough, the great part about Speedify is you can still setup bonding to your cellular, but it won't use any data if it doesn't have to fall back on it. Data is super expensive in Canada so that saves me some serious coin.
A good cable tester is a godsend for making and repairing cables, especially for a beginner. But Is it safe to solder into a connector plugged into a cable tester like that? I've always been afraid that the hot pins would fry the tester. I'm a big fan of securing the connector in a small table vice like this
Oh and clear heat shrink over Dymo Rhino labels is absolutely the way to go for labeling. Buy a spool of heat shrink off Amazon, it's waaaaay overpriced if you get the small bags of it in a store.
A cable tester/signal generator is definitely worth it, you might not need it all the time, but when you do it's like gold. You can get by with the Behringer CT100 tester just fine, it's one of the only products by them I recommend.
A good small screw driver set. You can find a good set on amazon for 10-20. I like the ones with one handle an a bunch of drivers.
A good headlamp. It's nice to keep the hands free when crawling around in dark places, or digging into the back of a rack.
A good set of diagonal cutters. I recommend this kind I'd also recommend a good set of wire strippers, I like Greenlees.
A thumb drive is also a good thing to have just in case. I like to have one in all my bags. They don't take up much space, aren't that expensive these days, and can save the day.
/u/Banjo_banjo_banjo's note about the iPad is incorrect. There's an Android app, as well as PC, Mac, Linux, and for some reason Raspberry Pi software, if you don't want to use the iPad, or if touring engineers don't have one.
Edit: To add a note on the wifi thing, it's very hit-and-miss, as with everything wireless it completely depends on the venue and the environment.
Given that you're in a restaurant, you might have people with phones everywhere, and you have 20 different wifi networks in range because you're on a busy city block, for all any of us know. That'll significantly degrade your potential wifi performance. Also, your restaurant could be huge, and the XR12's wifi won't cover it.
Generally I'd suggest connecting everything you possibly can via ethernet, and beyond that using a professional-grade access point, but that's a worst-case scenario. For all I know the built-in wifi will work fine for you.
I have an app on my phone that is basically a WIFI spectrum analyser.
It will show you at a glance what WIFI channels are in use and what is available.
Set a channel on your travelling router that no one else is using and you're golden.
Would anyone be willing to take a look at my equipment list and help me figure out what my power requirements are? This is new territory for me and I've got a ton to learn. Thanks!
Here's a link to the list:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2lH8GK2XBprRUFrRHpsZ3ptSm8/edit?usp=sharing
Edit: Two things not listed in the equipment list. An Apple Airport Express for wireless control of the mixer and 2 15-amp 8 outlet power conditioners.
Gotcha. Yeah the mono 1/4" inputs won't see one of the stereo sides. Ok, what you could do is use a breakout cable into a mono adapter or a passive DI box.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/CMP153
If you have a passive DI, run dual mono TS into each 1/4" input on the DI. One of them is a thru, but it will work since its a passive DI
Your UHF devices are unlikely to directly interfere with your WiFi devices, though I wouldn't place your router next to the IEM transmitter.
To coordinate your router setup check this out: http://osxdaily.com/2013/12/11/find-best-wi-fi-channel-wireless-tool-mac/
Also, if your WiFi devices can operate on 802.11n that is in the 5Ghz spectrum - well away from anything else that would be operating.
Whoops. Meant the AirPort Express. It's a WiFi router with a 3.5mm out that lets you stream music wirelessly from any iTunes or IOS device. There's also this Tascam CD/Bluetooth Combo unit, but it's 2u, doesn't have mass media, and IMO looks like a crappy CD player.
LXFree is good, though for the longest time I did pretty decent basic light plots in Inkscape. Just draw some basic movers and labels and copy / paste. Free and powerful, if you're comfortable drawing your own shapes.
I'm not sure what you're asking. The figure53 website gives a pretty good summary. Is there a more specific question you need help with?
*Also there is a very active Qlab user group, which the developers frequent. Check it out.
> Can you tell me more about Qlab and your set up with the CL console.
QLab can output MIDI scene changes which the console can be easily set to respond to. QLab can address specific scenes, so you can recall console scenes out of order if needed. On the audio side you can do quite a bit of audio editing (trim, adjust length with or without pitch correction, multi-point level control, etc.)
You can even rent QLab for a reasonable price by the day instead of making the large investment to buy it outright. $3/day gets you basic audio control plus MIDI.
It is Mac only, but the only other piece you need is a simple USB to MIDI interface.
i have never used it for this purpose, but i can only assume that QLab can do that. It does everything else i have ever wanted it to do. Also, the basic version is totally free.
I use the DR-40 to record board feeds and venue ambience when I'm doing double duty as video guy.
It's an absolutely wonderful little device.
I also recorded this sample on it recently. Don't ask why.
I think this is the right answer. For OP: The technical term for this would be 'volume automation' or 'level automation'. QLab or SCS will let you draw custom level curves over time for each track of audio playback. It isn't quick to edit on-the-fly, but it will do what you ask.
To approach from an artist's perspective as well, this would actually be quite easy to accomplish in Cycling 74's MAX/MSP software - while it's a paid piece of software, I suggest it because the support is very good. You could go down the open-source route and use pure data instead.
I have used Icecast which is similar. For OP, a quick read up of the comparison between each would be helpful.
(ninja: this of course would mean doing everything yourself including networking and configuration)
Planning Center's great but I'd never use it outside of a HoW environment. This is a product that's meant to fit a specific niche and from someone who schedules regularly within the service, I would see this as a nightmare to use outside of a HoW context.
I second When I Work.
It's mac only, but I use OmniGraffle whenever I need to do quick and simple drawings. I don't often have to do Stage Plots, but it is definitely my software of choice when I do.
They have a spot for a pole mount in the bottom. Can't I get a wall mounted pole mount and use that?
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Town-Adjustable-Brackets-180-degree/dp/B089G8VYXZ
Black dickies shorts
for outdoor shows so I don’t die from sweat loss, under armour. I like the tall versions cause I can bend over while on stage and not be afraid my asscrack will pop out.
I stumbled upon this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GJCA6M/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_Q4KCAE2KRB7JFTJKMWJY
Takes in two RCA stereo pairs and sums them into one single 1/4” or XLR output. This could be the best option, yes?
This is the wrong cable for the job.
The iPad is a stereo output. Your input is mono. That cable has shorted the two channels together into one, which is bad. That cable is meant to run the other way, splitting a mono output into a duplicate signal to feed both channels of a stereo input with the same signal.
The short answer is to use something like the cable below. Try it with only one channel, and if it's adequate, you're fine. If you need both, you'll need to use two inputs, or as others have suggested, purchase some sort of DI or build a sum circuit.
UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord Compatible for iPhone, iPod, Computer Sound Cards, CD Players, Multimedia Speakers and Home Stereo Systems 6FT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GYRWY7P6TQH7JAX8W4S2
There are other versions and manufacturers, but any will work in that config.
Here's the science on why. Absolutely worth a read...
I’ve gotten quite respectable results from this :
Rode VideoMic GO Lightweight On-Camera Microphone with Integrated Rycote Shockmount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GQDORA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q4WYFBK94SAMMK8KFHDP
Laptop, seems to be a more flexible encoding solution and we don't need the robustness of a specialist hardware unit.
Speedify just bonds what you give it? Like 2 USB cellular modems hooked up to a laptop and away you go?
I am looking to get multiple input recordings onto my desktop computer. I cannot invest money in a mixer at the moment but I had an idea that I was curious would work.
If I connect each of my different synths into their own USB Sound Adapters and record their input into audacity: would I be able to record multiple devices at the same time, each with their own independent line in recording?
The Radial is the most pro unit I’ve used. If you want a good and cheap small one to have in a pinch I’ve had good results from this guy. Anker Soundsync A3352 Bluetooth... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H5C2BQX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
One of these, and tape some red gel over it if you want to get fancy
https://www.amazon.com/Compass-CU2-Emergency-Light-White/dp/B00D0YV3XQ/
For stuff that can be thrown around, my local thrift stores have a bunch of plastic-shell TSA-spec carry-on roller bags for under $20. Usually in ugly colors, but black spray paint is cheap lol. The wheels on the bottom are usually chewed up so I've screwed 2x4s onto the bottom to mount proper casters.
Nah it’s not bad at all. I thought about grinding down the front of the unit on the bottom a little bit, but it’s one of those things that I don’t even notice anymore. My only suggestion is maybe piece of flat thin steel sticky taped on the bottom connecting both units to help strengthen them a little. They’re prolly fine without it but I built network racks for a living and like things very sturdy.
The xr18 works great w these. I have aux 1/2 in stereo link for a set of 4 going to one receiver for guitarist/keys and vocals. And then aux 3/4 setup for drummer and bassist. Works a charm and leaves 5/6 for my studio monitors/future subs.
Idk if you have already but you def want to upgrade the earbuds that come with the receivers. I leave them in my rehearsal room for backups and call them “the buds of shame” if someone forgets theirs. I have a few pairs of the zst earbuds ranging from $20-$70 that all sound great with these.
Here’s the antenna extenders I bought from Amazon, just need a 1u blank plate and a drill for two holes in it. I don’t recall the drill bit size, I think I just used a step bit.
MWRF Source TNC Male to TNC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y6SCJH3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hope that helps, let me know how u make out. And if you have any other questions. Been using this setup for a few years now.
One more thing... def don’t leave the batteries in the receivers. I did have one battery leak and damaged the receiver. It still works but lots of unneeded corrosion in them. I have rechargeable aa’s I leave right near the packs and it’s each band members responsibility to take them out/put them in at the beginning and end of rehearsal now.
No, I meant extension cables for your inputs.
The ZLX would be killer for this use, I just assumed you were going for cheap. I'm not convinced that they would sound $700 better for what you're going to use them for, but that's your call. You could always rent some for the day and try them out.
Be careful getting long ICE cables, the el cheapo ones on amazon are notorious for getting hot as shit - make sure you get a heavy enough gauge.
No need to go used. The XR12 is $249 brand new:
It is a great little mixer. I use mine for small gigs that normally don't need more than 4 mics but I have also used it for a band that needed 8 mics and the TRS line inputs are clean enough that I was able to plug in dynamic mics with XLR>TRS cables and get plenty of gain without noise. I am impressed.
The one thing to consider though is that you must have a tablet to control it. I bought an Amazon Fire HD 8 for $89. Works great.
EDIT: I just noticed the OP is in Canada. I guess he might have to go used or refurb.
Seems like a good deal.
Sound on Sound has this review.
Amazon has had them for $359 before, based on someone's review comment
I'd say based on the reviews, and the fact they are plywood and not ABS, and also have Bluetooth (if you're into that), that's a pretty good price for what appears to be a decent low-to-mid-end active speaker, especially for a pair.
You're exactly right with the difference between passive and active speakers! And for what to look for, just search "PA speakers" and you should find what you need. Add "active"/"powered" or "passive" in front of that search to narrow down your results.
​
For that amazon speaker set you linked, that should work! Keep in mind that the amp is in one of those speakers, and the other one is passive. They're linked together by that bigger cable that's included in the set. Also, since those speakers only have RCA inputs, you'll need an adapter like this to connect to the monitor out of your mixer
>Shure BLX14/P31
Something that might be worth a try if you like the Shure setup is to just get a 12v battery to run the receiver off of. The receiver does not draw much power, so it wouldn't take much of a battery to power it.
The standard power supply outputs 12v at .4 amps. Most 12v batteries, even the small ones (think kid-sized battery powered cars) would provide many hours worth of power. I'm thinking something like this battery and charger would work to plug the receiver into when you need to be away from a power source. You will need to create yourself the proper cord and ends to make it work though.
Another option, which I've used in the past, is a all in one emergency battery/jump starter with an 120v inverter built in. I had one made by Schumacher that lasted many years. You are just converting 12v DC to 120v AC and then back to 12v DC. My portable power needs have now surpassed what it can handle (running a powered PA), so I now use a regular generator instead.
Yes. It will look a lot like this, minus the switch & without the chromed grill. (They are interchangeable with SM58.)
https://www.amazon.com/Shure-565SD-LC-Microphone-without-Magnetic/dp/B0002MJCH8
Usually not. Here's the one I use, but it only measures wattage as of that moment. If you are running off of a battery, your want to know total wattage hours used, which most of the kill a watt style ones do.
I just bought some black karaoke microphone covers on Amazon. They ate like a hospital gown material. It was about $13 usd for 100 of them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDSML31/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-omgFbEWWZA1D
That 30 amp/250v plug is essentially two 15a/120v outlets in one. With the right adapter you can use it as such. I would suggest you make the venue buy it, so that it can benefit them after your gig.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IZ1BW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ki7MCbQ2106AS
Bring a multimeter and test exactly what is coming out of it before you plug anything in. It is also advisable to put a 15a breaker on each leg. Standard power strips all have one, just plug one into each end of that splitter and plug anything else into those.
I'm not sure what you mean powered systems - like powered PA speakers? Yes, you can run them in stereo, you would get pair of cables like this and run L out to the left speaker and R out to the right speaker (assuming you've got RCA jacks on your DVD player - assuming you're using a DVD player). Either way, it can be done, just need an adapter cable to get from whatever output jack you've got to XLR or 1/4" (respectively.)
DIY Calibrator Adapter -- find an appropriately sized rubber stopper and drill a hole down the center with an appropriately sized drill bit and then cut the stopper so it isn't too long.
> Use a wifi heatmapper to find the free-est possible band,
If you have something android available, I recommend this wifi scanner: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
It will show you essentially a spectrum analyser type display so you can identify the least interfered with channel to use.
Ah ok. So for monitoring I got this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZHB5V2Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Which I figure I'll plug into the 4th line out on my interface, and just send the stuff I want in my ear to that 4th line out, mixed how I want it. Does that seem reasonable? And is that basically another version of what you're saying?
I have a laptop, audio interface, microphone, and guitar, and keyboard. And a little table. The mic, guitar, and keyboard will all plug into the audio interface. And so the audio interface will just output all the sound into these main out jacks.
>You'll want something that switches to Male XLR. Either a DI or 1/4" to XLR
Ah ty! So two of these? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Premier-4inch-16AWG-Plated/dp/B001UJEKZ6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2IL62B70AM4BD&keywords=1%2F4%2Bto%2Bxlr&qid=1671647620&sprefix=1%2F4%2Bto%2Bxlr%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-5&th=1
Can you recommend how long a cable should I get?
Gig with or cheap one to practice with?
This is a starter PA to practice with that is very budget friendly. I even gigged with it a few times… its is far from awesome
I really enjoy these Wrenchworx Ironclad gloves but honestly I end up not wearing gloves for 90% of what I do. If I'm the one pushing cases I'll put them on but even once I get on the truck they come back off so I can set straps.
I generally recommend power conditioners or power filters with surge protection for sensitive equipment.
I also highly recommend you buy a tool or tools that can test for proper outlet wiring and voltage in unfamiliar venues. For example: Klein Tools RT250. It isn't perfect but can save you some trouble.
Don’t buy too cheap a 10-32 screw. They will cross thread and muck your rails up.
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Elcom-Equipment-Mounting-Washers/dp/B07DRT7SGN/ref=asc_df_B07DRT7SGN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343463180818&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16597955103703595108&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...
"Powerful" because there are many drivers working together so the system is able to achieve higher output.
"Direct" because the physical line length creates directivity in the low frequencies that cannot be accomplished by a single loudspeaker, and the HF sections are designed to use coupling constructively to achieve very precise, controlled dispersion. Put those together and you have a system that achieves higher broadband direct:reverberant ratio than a single loudspeaker, which can make it sound "closer."
If you are interested in the science of what makes line arrays "work" I explained it in my book, and Bob McCarthy's book goes into much more detail.
The ebook is exclusive to Google but should show up in the UK Google play store if you search for it. The print version should be available from Amazon UK and any major book vendor you prefer. Local bookstores should be able to order it for you as well, through their usual distribution channels. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Between-Lines-Concepts-System-Alignment/dp/B0BBL6QQ12/ref=sr_1_1
You could install a Palmer into your amps. Seems like overkill just for monitors. How is it you don't need guitar in the PA yet need it in the monitors?
https://www.amazon.com/Palmer-PDI-Passive-Box-Guitars/dp/B001QUL9OY
These are your cheapest option that are not literally blocking the sound
You mentioned that it is an acoustic bass. Do you mean an upright bass? Or a bass that looks similar to an acoustic guitar? All of the comments about high pass filtering are spot on… but one other suggestion would be a “feedback buster” for the actual bass which is a piece of rubber that plugs the sound hole of the instrument. This prevents the instrument from getting overexcited by the speakers. Very common solution when using acoustic instruments.
These work fine, and they're 50 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Compliant-Shielded-Optimization-TL-SG1005P/dp/B076HZFY3F
Only 4 ports though, if you need more ports, or will need more ports later
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B016XIU1HE/
You don't really need to worry about 'green ethernet' stuff, that's standardized via IEEE 802.3az now, and has been for long enough that it's hard to find gear with nonstandard implementations, so it won't affect DANTE at all.
Yes, but that may not be the cheapest either. I use these pretty regularly and have not had an issue with them. I've done up to 200'
You should seriously look into renting a system from a local production house though. At least for the first time. Get an idea of what their system looks like and how it functions. It'll probably be cheaper than buying more tops and all the required cables and you won't get locked into a solution that you may not like. If you do like it you could purchase parts and dry rent therest until you own what you want.