What are /r/Nest's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

We can use these as a workaround until Nest gets it’s act together. I bought these to cover the LED lights on my car’s dashcam for a more stealth look. They work well without ruining the aesthetic of your machine/device.

I use the Chamberlain MyQ garage door opener. It lets you open or close the garage door from anywhere using your phone. I installed it myself in 10 minutes, very easy. It also sends you alerts if your garage door is left open.

https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-MYQ-G0201-MyQ-Garage-Controls-Smartphone/dp/B00EAD65UW

Get a wifi analyzer app, like this one for Android:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

You'll want an app that will show wifi signal to noise strength over time.

Launch the app to monitor your wifi reception, then turn on the toothbrush. It's best to have someone standing still with the app, while someone else moves the toothbrush around, to see if it's the source of interference.

I have two of the iq outdoor and I drilled thru the soffit up to the attic to where I used a Poe adapter to run to my unifi 24 port Poe switch. Used this adapter GAT-USBC - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D199JQP

You could also consider a wall plate to cover it up—like this one:

elago Wall Plate for Nest Hello [White] - [Compatible with Adjustable Wedge][Hard ABS Material][Easy Installation][Perfect Fit][Matt Finish] - Patent Pending https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CYRQV5X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4lLQBb6Q0J417

>Google believes any camera that’s recording should have a light on next to it, so Nest cameras will lose the ability to turn that light off. Google also believes that the data that smart home devices can collect is so personal and private that the company needs to take a stronger hand in deciding whether third parties can get access to it. That will mean that the Works with Nest program for third-party apps (including IFTTT) will be wound down in favor of the Works with Google program.

we had the same issue when we installed our nest, what we ended up doing was buying a wire kit that gives you a outlet plug and a wire that you put into the c wire spot. you could have a hvac guy come and install a c wire permanently but we moved into an apartment so i didnt want to pay to do something that i wouldnt get use of 5 years from now.

Cable kit on amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MT5VWQN/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have Android, there is ThermoStats: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jaredharen.harvest&hl=en_US

5W 220 Ohm resistor that you connect W to C at the furnace.

Other option is to use an common maker which taps the C at the furnace and adds diode unit at the thermostat to create a C connection.

u/apraetor has good point to verify it is a 24vac system.

You would be suprised, one of my clients upgraded their smoke alarms to smoke/CO alarms and the alarm went off that night in only the 3rd floor bedrolm

I found a crack in their boilers exaust pipe in the basement, the CO was traveling up the inside of the wall to the 3rd n floor.....

The crack was caused by the company that installed the boiler.....12 YEARS AGO......

I would buy a CO meter, or have Building Maintenance have the CO level checked

Here are 2 inexpensive meter/alarm

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y6V5CI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_54ZfFb9FBQZF7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084RKM7C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T5ZfFb7S59B8E

Have this same setup and have constantly had voltage issues. “adD A C wiRe” crowd doesn’t seem to understand not everyone is an electrician, hvac specialist or can run new wires. I’m in a 90 yo house it’s not that fuckin simple.

Nest did just start selling their own C Wire solution that’s easy to install. Mine just arrived today.

I have previously used a Venstar add a wire kit with success on my upstairs unit that had more issues, but held off with my downstairs unit because when heat was on I had very few issues, which is most of the year since my heat is radiant via a boiler. Only the summer months do I get power issues with cool only on my cooling unit to the nest.

Buy the Ecobee. Amazon has them on sale for $199. https://www.amazon.com/ecobee3-Smarter-Thermostat-Remote-Generation/dp/B00ZIRV39M/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1465586829&sr=1-1&keywords=ecobee+3

Yes. https://ifttt.com/google_assistant

Anything you can do with your voice in Google Assistant, you can trigger with IFTTT. IFTTT can even send text messages by voice, which is something not even Google Home Hub can do on its own yet: https://ifttt.com/applets/fNdGJfwy-send-a-text-message-to-someone-with-your-android-and-google-home

Nest uses Weather Underground by zip code to give you your outside temperature. This seems like it's a settings problem. You might want to give them a call and have them walk you through it.

Yup, it's down for everyone. Their support site lists no status issues and there has been no acknowledgement on social media yet, but lots of comments from other users here- http://www.isitdownrightnow.com/nest.com.html

If you also find your transformer, just remove it and buy a new one off Amazon. They are relatively cheap and will provider more power https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GND8RMQ/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1 for smart switch. I have a Kasa smart switch for the outdoor security lights on my garage and have them set on a schedule to turn on at sunset and turn off at sunrise, it works flawlessly. I installed it, set the schedule and haven't touched it since.

Got ya. As for the wiring, I am not sure as I am not an electrician, but my GUESS would be you can wire the nest in line without the chime and it should work. Instead of the transformer, perhaps you might want to check out some other power options. I think you can buy some on amazon specifically for powering a Hello. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Doorbell-Supply-Battery-Charger/dp/B077XTJBXV

FYI, there is a stand-alone Neighbors app now.

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/neighbors-by-ring/id1218902777?mt=8

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ring.neighborhoods&hl=en_US

> So basically I need to watch the app all day

Shameless plug, but if you have an Android phone you'd like my app. It includes a widget so you can always see the temps on your home screen. ��

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jaredharen.harvest

EDIT: typo

I completely disabled auto-away and now use Skylark on iOS - it does exactly what you're looking for. There's no Android version, but it looks like Coming Home might do the trick.

Inquirer: Nest warns users to change potentially - pwned passwords

Password Checker

We don't have any idea whether Google will be adding a "That" functionality, or will otherwise be expanding the capabilities of their Google Assistant service on IFTTT. Currently the Google Assistant service is not able to replicate much of the functionality that will soon be lost due to the removal of the Works With Nest program, even if you directly connect your Nest to Google Assistant. If there's any news to share, we'll let people know.

IFTTT has triggers for “temperature rises above” and “temperature drops below”. The full list of Nest triggers and actions are at the bottom of this page:

• https://ifttt.com/nest_thermostat

Not sure which Wemo switch you have, but you can find some of the triggers and actions at the bottom of this page:

• https://ifttt.com/wemo_switch

So, there’s a good chance you can do what you want when tying Nest to Wemo via IFTTT.

Maybe our AC is broken....

Must get that checked....

You are correct, its not often, but it does happen.

Across July average temp. diff from low to high was about 13.5 deg C, min 10, max, 22. 6th July it was actually 22 deg C swing, as I've learned in this thread, what I really need is an attic fan, I think that is the engineering solution you may have missed, where ambient air is used to cool residences. Most homes have them here, except ours, and we're renting so can't add. Its a big fan in the attic that blows out all the hot air up there out and sucks in cold air through an open door or window, also from a home automation prospective a high torque servo on a vent/ or a few vents would work wonders for this.

I've my Nest now with data logging every 5 mins into google sheets, so I can share a chart in a few weeks to show what I'm talking about, in the mean time Temps Near me during July.

Our home is quite sun baked also, and even more recently a very big tree out the front was removed which took away a huge amount of shade, also a neighbour cleared his fence, which now leaves my AC unit sun baked also for about 6 hr of the day.

Now hopefully they'll get working on the Nest for Security Systems units again (that tie into a central alarm panel). Here's a cached page that described the product but it has since been taken down ...

> I believe you can use IFTTT and the nest channel to setup auto-aways based on geo-fencing

Unfortunately no. The Nest channel on IFTTT does not support setting home/away status as an action. It only supports reading it as a trigger.

Alas, it does not appear as though the Nest channel allows you to use Nest home/away status as an action ... only a trigger. Too bad - otherwise, pairing it up with the Android location channel (or the equivalent for iOS) would have done the trick.

In any case, I largely do the same - most of my temperature behavior is schedule-driven (instead of auto-away driven). I set a rather aggressive setpoint schedule by default, and then I configure "auto-away" to be just a few more degrees economical than my regular schedules. So, my default mid-day-weekday schedule might let the thermostat go down to 66 during the day ... and then "auto-away" might let it go a degree or two more down to 65 or 64.

Nest uses Weather Underground.

Check this out. It explains how often Weather Underground updates.

See: Temporal resolution.

Furthermore, I do believe that Google Weather also uses the Weather Underground API - but don't quote me on that, I don't know for sure.

This Detect availability thing seems like such nonsense coming from a company the size of Google.

It's like their inventory system is telling them they have 3 pallets of these things in a warehouse in Asia somewhere, and once they find them, they will sell them and then finally admit that they are discontinued forever.

As for monitoring that stupid page so that you might get lucky and get one of the last ever Detects, I recommend something like https://visualping.io/.

> It is trash, FYI Nest removes bad reviews from their site who knows how many people woking round the clock to clean up their online image...... https://www.trustpilot.com/review/nest.com

I don't understand, are you saying that trustpilot.com is a site run by Nest, and that Nest removes bad reviews from that site? That makes no sense.

Seems like the app was last updated 4 years ago so I'm guessing it's not going to work very well, if at all… Out of interest why do you want Thread support? I never hear much about devices supporting it…

Best technical option is to run a new cable from the a/c unit.

One easy option is to install a Nest Power Connector at the a/c unit. Otherwise give up the G wire for a C or get a Venstar add-a-wire kit.

Hmm, I'm guessing no, but hopefully they can get it running in case it doesn't work. A solution you might be able to use is to pick up a IR LED light similar to this. Look through different ones for what works for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6G333V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_36B0VTMQFREF4R4MGM48

I have these on mine and although not designed to cut down on wind , I feel they do a bit for me and the sun shade actually does cut down on glare for how mine are positioned.

Since this doesn't connect anything to C at the Nest I have some doubts it will solve all problems. First glance it is only a bit better than installing a resistor at the HVAC end that they have recommended for years. If you have a 2 wire system running 24x7 then Nest still won't have a chance to charge.

Of course there may be some power stealing circuitry built into Nests since 2015 that hasn't been used.

And if there is a relay in it then it may solve some chattering issues.

everything you can buy on amazon yes. I have a new raspberry pi 4 running it, but its complete overkill for just these 2 things. i havent touched it in a year or so, so i forget videos i used for setup, there are hundreds if you search on youtube. Very easy to setup, just follow steps. video as example here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZO_EFzf1z6c

some people use a raspberry pi zero w, but thats wireless only. i would suggest a pi with hardwire jack. this kit is popular on amazon and has everything, watch some videos and go with best judgement. you dont need a powerful pi here at all, 3 works fine https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Premium-Clear-Supply/dp/B07BC7BMHY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=raspberry+pi+3&qid=1620850716&sr=8-3

If you can't run c-wire from the controller to the thermostat, your can use this snazzy device: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2NGFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QWQCEJ7Z710SRC5AEWKG

It takes the signal from the red wire and multiplexes it into a red and C. I have one in my house, works like a charm.

Could be they have a nice decorative one like a bollard light or some thing they don’t want to switch out but depending on what lengths you want to go… you could try installing something like this to a junction box mounted somewhere inconspicuous and have a wire run back to the light. Would solve the motion problem and the not changing the light.

Heath Zenith S SL-5407-BZ 180-Degree Replacement Sensor, Selectable Timer, Adjustable Detection Sensitiity Upto 70Feet Range, LED Indicates Motion Sensed (Day or Night), 500W, Br, 1-(Pack), Bronze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N7FQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RK9PP0DHEJXQY83MPN8E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The U wires are normally for a humidifier that the base Nest does not support. See if you can find the brown and black wires at your furnace and see what they connect to. If it is a humidifier you can convert it to a single wire with the use of a relay but would still need the higher end Nest 3rd Gen Learning.

One ref is in the comments on this product: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV

In my very old house I used this https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071H7FXQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_G026EBRGYKKK33MRZ828 I took the trim off my door and fished the wire to my basement and plugged it in. Works with no problems.

The Ring Pro isn't supposed to have a battery but like a lot of electronic equipment has a capacitor or other internal circuitry that keeps it alive for a while.

Swapping live is done all the time. As you mentioned, don't touch the wires together. With Nest if you don't have a chime you need to turn off the inside chime setting. Unfortunately Google has many software bugs and sometimes doesn't work. Not all the time but there are several reports of Nest killing transformers. If you can't find the transformer and have no chime to be safe I would install a resistor in line so that the transformer can not get shorted out.

The new Nest thermostat was not designed for how you have it set up. You have 4 wires but are only connecting 3. Your furnace is now like a battery with only one end connected.

You need something like this that includes an isolation relay: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00755BZZC

Alternatively you can combine the old Rh with the power adapter wire going into the Nest R connector. This works but has reported higher rates of HVAC system failures.

First priority is to see if you can get the boiler to work when a C is present. Later you can either jumper the G to Y at the air handler or install a common maker. Ideally run a new 5 wire thermostat cable from the thermostat to the attic.

Wow, this is very interesting because they replaced my power adapter on my nest IQ outdoor about a year ago with no hassle. It had been in operation for a few months before it failed. Things change. While I was waiting for them to send me the replacement I used a $9 adapter from Amazon that I had bought for my phone and it worked fine. It was this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PZ229RR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

May be ugly but get a 24v transformer and hook it to the Rc and C terminals for constant power. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV

This one does: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Wireless-Interconnected-Photoelectric/dp/B0064S9IQ4/

Might have to switch once my Protects start expiring.

Normally yellow and green are for air conditioning and blower fan. If you don't have them you don't need them. Some installers like attaching unused wires to make it look good.

So you really only have two wires active. Red R and White W.

The Nest E is hit or miss with an oil furnace. You can try it but plan on adding a transformer and isolation relay such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00755BZZC.

This is a frequent issue with only two wires. Try moving one wire from RH to RC as it has helped some but not many.

One solution is to add a resistor at the furnace between W and C.

I just bought the new nest thermostat. I have a 4-wire setup (Y, W, G, R), but my C wire is not attached to the HVAC.

I ended up purchasing a C Wire Adapter (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MT5VWQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The adapter says to put one end in the C and the other end in the RC, but the Nest thermostat doesn't have a RC. Some of the product reviewers for the adapter are claiming to put the other end in the R slot with the red wire.

Is it dangerous for the Nest to have the R wire and one end of the adapter wire both go into the R slot?

Yes.

●●●

A resistor from W to C on the furnace MIGHT fix it(havnt tried it with your symptoms)

(It allows power to bypass the furnace controls and go to the nest solving wierd issues)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z7VCSA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AOCMFbFYVMJ60

●●●

An isolation relay WILL fix it

(It is turned on my the nest and power by the plug in transformer. When it turns on it activates the relay which connects the R&W wire just like your old thermostat)

You can use your transformer with this kit, but the kit comes with a relay & instructions to install it @ the thermostat, relay can slip into the wall(might have to make hole in wall larger)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00755BZZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HNCMFbFBEQEMN

It comes with a 24v transformer (thats black) But you can use yours if you want(since it's white and might be less noticeable)

Yes, that is a normally open valve. So needs power to close and turn off heat. For mechanical thermostats you would hook to Y. There are only a few modern thermostats that will work out of the box. They have a "6" terminal to drive the valve you have.

Otherwise get a relay. When you get it we can provide details of how to hook it up.

I'm currently looking other options. Looking at Amazon for line volt compatible thermostats.

Here's a smart one: https://www.amazon.com/STZW402WB-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboards-Convectors/dp/B01BYL1OAS/ but it requires SmartThings or Zwave.

Honeywell also makes something but requires Redlink (whatever that is.) I may just get a regular non-smart programable thermostat, which would be better than what I currently have.

Here's a list of the top (non-smart) programmable thermostats for line voltage therms: http://thermostatguide.com/line-voltage-thermostat/

Let us know how Circle 2 is. The reviews on Amazon aren't very charitable. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719LZMYG?aaxitk=TOghvjUplLx4UAv2VD81xQ&pd_rd_i=B0719LZMYG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3513138642&pd_rd_wg=UFbAJ&pf_rd_r=WPTE3KMPWT9CX6PHPSZY&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_r...

The one I got is currently not available right now on amazon but it is this one

UEi Test Instruments UET34 Ringer Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IDW2CJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a77QAb5Y1ZQP5

That Nutone will work perfect and you shouldn’t have any issues.

It was about a year ago, and it was a PAIN in the arse. I'll see if I can find the diagrams I used, but the real key is figuring out which of the 3 switches was the one that carried the originating load. I had to install "remote" switches on the two that weren't and a real switch on the one that was. I installed GE switches, but if I had to do it today, Amazon has one made by Zoos which says it doesn't require the "remote" switches as long as there is a neutral in the box, and that seems like the best way to go! https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Switch-ZEN21-Existing-Regular/dp/B074CJ1ZRF/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1528693497&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=smartthings+3+way+switch+in+wall

Amazon - Comes in 6 or 8 leg models

Aero Snail Retro Creative Metal Flush Mount 8-Light Cafe Bar Ceiling Lamp Chandelier Lighting Fixture

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQF9KGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gPkFBbZY1WQ5G

I added the 8 Philips hue bulbs after the fact obviously. Perfect to alternate between green and blu on Seahawks game days

Did you search on amazon? The first result for doorbell mirror.

The Package Spy for Video doorbells by Mount Genie: It’s Like Having a Second Camera just for Packages. Works with Nest and Ring. Helps Reduce Theft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9JRH26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oLG.BbTKF8333

You have the symptoms of needing a C wire as Nest's power stealing is triggering the furnace. Since you have no access to the furnace your options are limited. Installing a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00755BZZC might be easiest.

Your system has a 120 volt fan/limit switch in the upper right hand corner that controls the fan based on furnace temperature. To add a G wire control at the thermostat you would need to add a relay along with a few wires.

I found this 3rd party case on Amazon that seems to do what I need. This seems better than my plastic bag idea. I have ordered it and will see how well it does the job.

Apilio.io is an ok first start but it's still very limited. Stringify is also an option but it is 100% cloud based. Home Assistant is where I ended up for my automations. You should take a look at it.

You’ll probably need something, depending on the hole size and if you can get rid of that brown shit. Something like this could help: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CYRS8KF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_toAOBbME7J67P

If it covers everything you don’t want to see, I personally would seal it with a white caulk or something to make it look clean on the stone. Or just leave the gaps if it’s way too bumpy.

My guess is that the Noritz is a digital/5vdc contact and not 24vac as in most HVAC equipment. Measure the voltage across the terminals at the Noritz - both AC and DC.

Most likely you would need a transformer and isolation relay - something like https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-90-113-Fan-Control-Center/dp/B000PY2856 - either that or get a 24vac transformer and feed the Nest on Rc and C.

Great idea. We've actually talked about it. I guess we're concerned about sending too many alerts, but it's on our list of features. By the way, there are smart vents/fans that do what you described (for example, http://www.amazon.com/Designed-Intelligently-Outside-Available-Temperature/dp/B008Y9U266)

Using a WiFi analyzer app to see if you have too much interference on 1 channel, say you're on default 6 and it's full of APs. I run mine on 5Ghz to prevent this and don't have any issues.

I don't know a IOS one but if you got Android use this one. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer Because it works and open source.

I use the Coming Home app on Android to set my Nest to Home if I am within a certain radius of my home. There are similar apps for Apple I think.

Obviously you'll have to set the area to a size that is as large in travel time as it takes for your house to warm up to where you want it to be...

If you are referring to @home for Nest on Android, I used that app for months and it did nothing. I now use Coming Home and it works great!

As long as it states 24vac you should be good. 20 VA or higher recommended but not always necessary.

Something like this should do the trick. 500ma means 12 VA so lower than you were looking for but it works. This one is 20 VA but you need to add your own wires.

More info is needed. How many zones/thermostats does your system have? If only one is the thermostat wired directly to the TT terminals on the boiler? Do you have spare wires behind the thermostat?

Some Naviens have a 24vac supply on the board for powering thermostats so may not need to buy a transformer. Post a picture of the board.

Moving to Ecobee would also need a C wire or a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2NGFKH installed.

Correct. Swap the two wires going to the boiler thermostat terminals (1 and 2). There is a chance it might fix the problem.

Also - do you have a multi-meter to measure the voltage on the boiler terminals? If it would work I am thinking a small resistor might be an easier fix than adding a relay.

It looks like you did everything right. No surprises there.

I assume that when you remove one of the wires going to the boiler it does shut down.

The Nest Power Connector is an electronic switch so the boiler may be too sensitive for it. You can try swapping the two white wires going to the boiler thermostat connections as that has been known to help with other Nest products (haven't seen with power connector, though). Otherwise you may need to add an isolation relay.

I did find a note from IBC for ‘GHOST’ CALL FOR HEAT - Triac or ‘Power-robbing’ thermostat sending current to boiler. -

>Remove Therm. connections from boiler to confirm that stray voltage, or current induced in thermostat wiring, is source of nuisance signal. Replace the Power Robbing thermostat, isolate the thermostat with a relay or install a properly sized resistor (consult the thermostat manufacturer first then IBC for instructions).

https://smile.amazon.com/Silicone-Thermostat-Installation-Fingerprint-Resistant/dp/B09FZ32KPL/ref=sr_1_14?crid=335SJ1KDO9LCI&keywords=Silicone+Wall+Plate+Compatible+with+Google+Nest+Thermostat%2C+Home+Thermostat+Accessories%EF%BC%8CPractical+a...

This looks pretty small, maybe a little smaller than your picture.

The Chime Connector is there mainly to eliminate buzzing/false ringing. A lower voltage transformer can help. Some are multi-voltage so see what you have now. Sometimes putting a resister at the chime will quiet it down.

$155.50 USD over the weekend. https://slickdeals.net/f/12127450-nest-hello-smart-wifi-hd-video-doorbell-with-night-vision-nc5100us-white-155-50-free-shipping

I got mine for $199 on Rakuten when it first released, so that was a great deal too.

I just bought two Nest units (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HRPDYTP?psc=1) for a two story, dual-zone house. There is a natural gas furnace and two heat pumps (I'm assuming one per floor). The first Nest installed fine downstairs but when I went to install the second, the upstairs hook up has an "extra" two wires. On the old "Aprilaire" unit they are labeled O/B and Y2. The Installation with the wire identifier says it won't work with those. By removing one (Y2) it will proceed with setup but won't heat. Why does that compact checker say it won't work, but the one linked in the title post above says it's fine? Up-stairs unit has: R, W, Y, O/B, Y2, C, G

I use an Android app called Notification Remover. it can be configured to hide notifications before they pop up based on the app (Nest) and content of the notification (a person's name). I'm sure iOS has something similar. I mostly use this to hide the notifications identifying myself, but it could be used for any familiar faces.

Everything looks normal but Nest doesn't like it. The new one seems to not get far enough to throw the error. Try disconnecting the white wire at the air handler to see if the new Nest stabilizes.

One other thing to try is to disconnect the white wire between the air handler and the outside unit, leaving the thermostat white connected to the sequencer white. The white from the outside unit is used for when the defrost cycle runs to keep things warm. Of the two thermostat cables coming in on the right - the top one would be for the outside unit as it does not have the green/G used.

Some techs give up trying to fix these overcurrent errors and install an isolation relay at the air handler.

https://www.amazon.ca/Wasserstein-Horizontal-Adjustable-Doorbell-Battery/dp/B099N594M2/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?crid=2O6WJMTB4PUWE&keywords=nest+doorbell&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjY2IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zMiIsInFzcCI6IjMuNTkifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=nest+doorbell%2Cap...

Probably. Sometimes it doesn't fix things and you need a resistor installed between W and C at the hvac end. There is a small group of problem installs that need an isolation relay to solve things.

It can be… or not. Hardest part is usually snaking a new wire between your furnace and the thermostat.

But first check to see if possibly there is an extra, unused wire behind the thermostat. Often an installer will use a thermostat wire “bundle” of 6 or 7 wires, and won’t need all of them. If you already have an extra wire, it’s a pretty easy job. You just need to attach one end of the wire to C on your thermostat, and the opposite end to C or Common on your furnace’s control panel.

If that’s not possible (or you can’t run a new wire), you can install a Nest Power Adapter as an alternative.

https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nest-Power-Connector-Accessories/dp/B093TRFQWP/ref=asc_df_B093TRFQWP?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80608063550961&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvt...

Alright, so I snagged a 24v wall adaptor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YDJVS98?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)

But the issue i'm running into is that all the 24v adaptors appear to be for the Learning thermostat (that have an Rc and Rh port). Where exactly am i supposed to wire in the 24v adaptor without the 2 R ports? It currently only has Y/C/W/G/R/OB. I've read on a few posts so far that I shouldn't be wiring it into C + R (that would have 2 wires into my R port).

Again, a recap on my system, i have 3 Nests, 2 of the 3 are wired with a C wire (W/R/C) straight into the Taco board, but i'm trying to wire up the 3rd thermostat, and as you advised before and i confirmed with Taco, i can't wire the 3rd thermostat the same. Is it OK to have both R wires (1 from the 24v adaptor and 1 from the Taco board) going into the Nest? I do also have a Nest Power Connector but im hesitant here (and i'll admit, i'm not 100% sure what the connector does) but my assumption is that it's just pumping the 24v into the red wire anyways so essentially i'm still drawing power and that's exactly what Taco said i shouldn't do. Any help is much appreciated!

Another one here. More of a name brand.

https://www.amazon.com/CAP100000370VAS-Volt-Goodman-Capacitor-Upgrade/dp/B00EUG03ZC

Not guaranteed but likely.

It is cheap to get one with the right value: https://www.amazon.com/10-MFD-Capacitor-Oval-Condenser/dp/B09K8286KM

I use an Android app called Notification Remover. It's configured to remove any Nest notification with my name in it before it ever pops up or plays a notification sound.

There is a 3d print of a mount for the eave but I really don't want to mount there. For 26 bucks I would do that in a second. Amazon sells them. https://www.amazon.com/Nest-Floodlight-Mount-White-MF001/dp/B09PHXF1JX

Curious OP...my 1st gen is installed over a faceplate (similar to THIS)...is the size/shape of the 2nd gen comparable where you think it would still fit, or no? I'm assuming no.

Not directly compatible. Those are line voltage wires that Nest doesn't work with. Some have used a transformer/relay combination device to convert to the 24vac that Nest needs. 120v version 208-240v version

If you're using a wall adapter, why not use a Nest Doorbell (wired) 2nd gen? You don't need a battery powered doorbell. They have all sorts of limitations which you don't need to suffer.

Regarding finding a wall adapter, I just did a search for 'doorbell wall adapter' on Amazon and the first thing that came up (https://www.amazon.com/Ingers-Transformer-Compatible-Honeywell-Thermostat/dp/B083Y1VK9H) is 24V @ 500mA which meets Google's spec. So pretty easy to find.

I had the same problem. Nest replaced mine after a series of escalations. I wouldn't give up. I have since covered the new cable with this cover and hope it will not happen again for a few years. The newer cameras have the replaceable cable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PFCW582/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you connect R to G then the fan should start. (put the furnace cover back as there is a safety switch). R to G only is normally the slowest speed.

When testing heat it is just W1 and R for gas heat as the furnace controls the blower. For electric heat nest will activate both W1 and G.

It looks like a Lennox 85W79 board. If so the top right will have "FAN" "HEAT" and "COOL" connectors with wires going to the blower motor. Take pictures of where all of the wires go. You can swap the wires going to "FAN" and "COOL" to see if the blower works in fan only mode (G call) but would stop working in cooling mode. If that makes things work in fan mode then you have a motor issue. If it doesn't then you have a control board issue.

All three. It is a tight fit but should work. Otherwise use some pigtail wires and splice connectors.

If the grey in L and A is the same short splice then put the black L and one gray end in L. The other end of gray and the red in A.

That would be news to those who have installed one. Maybe you are confusing 12v with the optional OpenTherm connections?

See pics showing the thermostat E and separate Heat Link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nest-Thermostat-E-T4000ES/dp/B07K49G5WY

so I have this, which works off of the smart life / Tuya app.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z948VY4/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_7?smid=A1FPCJ5KUF6NHF&psc=1

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I also have the Bond product for the fans which can't conform to the wiring requirements for this product.

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in both cases - I AM able to control fan speed on my google Nest Hub / Home Hub. but NOT able to do it in the home app. It's the dumbest thing I've seen.

This worked for me: Anker USB C Charger, 735 Charger (Nano II 65W), PPS 3-Port Fast Compact Foldable Wall Charger for MacBook Pro/Air, iPad Pro, Galaxy S20/S10, Dell XPS 13, Note 20/10+, iPhone 13/Pro, Pixel, and More

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C5RG6KV?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details

try to this instead. i used to use it at my old house where there was an ac without a thermostat built in. as long as you don’t have it turning off on and off super frequently, it shouldn’t harm the compressor.

A few years back, one of my home insurance providers sent me a couple of notion door sensors for free and gave me some kind of discount for having them installed. Alas, that's the complete extent of my experience with door sensors.

It doesn't integrate with nest, requires to be in wifi range, but generally just works, at least until the battery dies. It senses opened doors, temperature and theoretically water leaks, and you can get push notifications whenever those get triggered.

There appears to be an ifttt integration for it, if you like to duct tape your IoT stuff together.

Sometimes everything works fine without the Chime Connectors. Try installing the Hellos and see how it goes. If you then have buzzing coming from the chimes then you can disable "indoor chime" in settings then jumper the wires together at the chime. Sometimes safer to jump with a resistor.

Here is a horizontal adjustable mount for the Nest doorbell, you can measure its base to see if it will fit on your trim https://www.amazon.com/Wasserstein-Horizontal-Adjustable-Doorbell-battery/dp/B099N594M2/