Take a look at WiFiAnalyzer, it's 4.96 MB. Open-Source, it's free, no ads, and it's great.

Looks like the features are equal, so it comes down to personal preference at this point.

The open-source and free WiFiAnalyzer does pretty much all of this as far as I can tell. Are there any particular extra features in this app?

Several apps does exactly same things...

And when many apps are equivalent in features, I always prefer the open-source one: WiFiAnalyzer (open-source) (it is also on F-Droid)

For more advanced use: NetX.

I would recommend Wifi Analyzer for this, at least it's free and open source, and it works well. It's also available on F-Droid.

My appreciation goes to WiFi Analyzer, it's probably a well known tool but it helped me out, my ISP were being argumentative with me over my Sky Q broadband hub, saying there isn't an issue with the device, I used WiFi Analyzer to prove that my 2.4 GHz frequency / channels were shit. They sent me a new box a few days later as my one turned out to be faulty.

Oh geez, this reminds me of a hospital in my town. Next time I'm there I'll have to take a screenshot. Every single one of their APs was on a different channel. Tons of adjacent-channel interference. I'm amazed it worked.

​

OP: Pssst, this one's FOSS!

Use this particular app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer (it's free as in beer and as in libre, and is also particularly featureful and zero-bullshit)

Walk around with it. See how things look. Make a map if you want. Be as officious as you'd like: You can call it a "Site Survey" if you'd like, and you'd not be wrong.

Pay particular attention to your 5GHz channel(s), since that's where things are both fastest and most-difficult to get through physical barriers.

And then, move your access point to somewhere that doesn't have a lot of metal directly nearby, and repeat your site survey. See how it changed.

I don't really know how accurate it is, as it's not troubleshooting I'm doing frequently, but I use WiFiAnalyzer on my Pixel 2 and it has been sufficient to accurately identify RF dead zones in a given space.

You can first try using a wifi analyzer first to test how strong your 2.4 and 5 GHz signals are, such as the WiFiAnalyzer for Android.

I haven't tried the following before and am not sure if this is even a decent substitute/test/idea, but a roundabout way is to first check if your smartphone can connect to your router via 5 GHz. If so, see if you can USB tether your computer to your phone and then connect your phone to your router via WiFi. Then test out Steam Link. In other words, maybe your phone can act as a WiFi dongle/adapter for the 5 GHz band.

Not OP, but a good way to determine interference is with a WiFi analyser app on a smartphone. What you're looking for is other access points which run on the same channel as your own access point, and identifying if perhaps another channel is less congested. Walk around your house slowly, particularly in areas where WiFi is important, and keep an eye on the access points you see, and their channel.

For Android, I have used this app in the past: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

I'm afraid I couldn't make a recommendation for iOS.

Worth noting, A few weeks ago that was updated and started requiring permissions far greater then what is required for its function. An alternative is https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer which has many of the same features, But is fully open source under GPL3 and does not require any invasive permissions.

Apparently, the above app has recently introduced popups and tracking, according to recent reviews. The VREM version of the app appears to be open source and does a similar thing.

Sure! If you're on android, I can recommend this one. Displays signal strength in dBm, refreshes results every second. It should be enough to get the job done.

Here are the common vulnerabilities affecting some Tomato routers:

1. Dnsmasq vulnerability (Shibby specific - fixed in FreshTomato).
2. KRACK (Shibby specific - fixed in FreshTomato).
3. VPNFilter - http://www.symantec.com/filtercheck/ (unlikely)
4. UPnProxy - Turn off your UPnP.

Also make sure your network has no access points with WPS enabled (you can check with your phone), otherwise bad things can/will happen.

You should probably also elaborate on "weekly hacks". Even Shibby shouldn't be susceptible to a takeover given the proper configuration. You have any IoT devices sitting on your router talking to the internet? Is your wifi security WPA2 on every antenna (Basic Settings -> Network)?

Go to a pawn shop, pick up the cheapest Android phone you can find, and use WiFiAnalyzer. There's nothing as comprehensive, easy to use, and suited to your purpose on iPhone, even if you're willing to pay for it.

I have a Pixel 2XL and it can see 5GHz networks fine. I've done some testing with it (in a RF shielded chamber too) and it can see a large amount of the obscure 5GHz channels.

It's worth looking at this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer to see whether it can actually see the network outside of the Android interface. Hopefully the 5GHz chip isn't busted and it's just a matter of compatibility or the router...

Placement becomes ultra important in these situations. I don't have the impedance of walls to the extent you seem to, however a single UAP-AC-LR located on the upper level, mounted on the ceiling, facing down pumps out enough signal that our 2.4GHz bands stretch clear across the street and all the way out to a detached garage forty+ yards (~meters) behind the house.

Get some software to help you perform basic site surveys. Here's an open source version for Android that i use: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en

EDIT: if you need blazing 5GHz speeds everywhere, this makes the most sense. Having a couple/few Lites is often superior to a single UAP-AC-Pro. As anything, it depends, it depends. Welcome, welcome! Hope your family are half as pleased with the upgrade as we've been.

They work on the 2.4Ghz bands which is the "wild west" of the EM spectrum. Probably do to everyones WiFi, bluetooth, and everything else you can think of that is wireless causing so much congestion.

Try this app if you have an android phone to see the congestion. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en

You could take a look at your environment & connection with Wifi Analyzer to see if there's something obviously wrong with your environment, but otherwise it's hard to say.

Fiber is not the only option. I don't have fiber but I have honest 500Mb downstream / 50Mb Upstream via cable connection.

Wifi connection is a tricky. First of all I would switch to 5GHz Wifi. If might happen that router doesn't have separate names network for 2.4GHz and 5GHz - in this case it can be configured to use separate names and you can choose what network use for connection.

If it doesn't work or if you already use 5GHz then you should check which channels are used by your wifi network. It also can be configured via the router admin interface. By default it is set to auto but you can set in manually. I usually download application called "Wi-fi Analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en&gl=US) and it shows how many wifi network do you have around and what are the power. Then it is possible to setup channel manually what you think is less used. Please notice that for 2.4GHz you should use only 1-2, 6-7 and 11-12 channel. If you use intermediate channels (like 4 or 9) - most probably you connection will be very bad.

A common issue may be your router. If its using 2.4g, the WiFi bands may be contested. So you need to switch to a newer router with 5ghz WiFi.

You can check the congestion using WiFi analyzer app in android(link below). You can also check it by directly connecting your laptop to router via land

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

There are lots with the same name. This is the (good) one:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_US&gl=US

Check VREM WiFi Analyzer to see if you have other 5G Access Points nearby using the same channel as yours.

Link

(requires an Android)

Try Android app Wifi Analyzer?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

But the best way is to create different name for 5GHz network on your router. Something like MyHome and MyHome_5, for example.

First ping your router IP and some external IP (8.8.8.8 for example, it's google dns server). If both pings are high the issue is your internal network, if only the external ping is high the problem is your ISP.

If the problem is your internal network, as I understand wifi then:

• looking at the web the ar5b125 is 2.4Ghz only. 2.4Ghz is a very problematic range because there are very few channels and they overlap so there's tons of interference. Plus tons of other products work over the same frequencies (baby monitors and stuff).
• check channel congestion. this app should help determine the best channel, that might help a bit.

Your best bet would be to upgrade to 5Ghz or ethernet cable. I used this for a few years while I had DSL connection and it worked like a charm over about 20m and two walls. Check if your router supports 5Ghz first.

2.4Ghz is very fragile when it comes to interference (too few channels + they overlap). The first thing I would do is try to change the channel on the wifi. There are apps that can scan the channels and show you how much interference there is (some routers also support this feature) like this one. Install the app and check "channel rating" then set your wifi to the best channel. you can do it for 5Ghz too for best performance.

Speedtest might not be the best way to test depending on what you’re looking for. There could be variances in the actual download speed that change every few seconds or minutes. A good way to test WiFi signal strength is to download something like WifiAnalyzer and see what the strength is in dBm. If you’re getting about -67 to -70 dBm everywhere you need it, that’s a good strength. -70 to -80 dBm and less means you’re getting poor WiFi signal.

Yeah, especially if you live in an apartment complex with a lot of other people (and their wifi routers) around. The 2.4GHz channel gets very crowded in areas like that which reduces speeds on every channel for everyone.

You can use an android app like this free wifi analyzer for Android to see if there's a better 2.4GHz channel for your router to be using (which you can configure in its settings). If all the channels are crowded though, not much you can do.

i dont know if it has the same software features as my tp-link archer ac5400, but check to see if the automatic channel is enabled and if it is change it to static. i had that issue with my router when i first got it but after finding the least congested channel with a wifi analyzer app and setting it to a static channel my issues of signal dropping out randomly have disappeared.

A 25 floor Marriott hotel spent at least thousands, possibly tens of thousands, of dollars on infrastructure consisting of a distributed network of at least dozens of individual access points that can cover the entire building and handle a large number of simultaneous connections.

Countertops, appliances, electrical wiring, plumbing in the walls, constructions materials used to build the walls, all have an impact on WiFi signal strength, and consequently on performance. Walking around your house with WiFi Analyzer and checking signal strength in different locations might help you pinpoint sources of interference or walls that are contributing significantly to signal attenuation. You might be better off putting your router in a more central location to get better coverage over the entire house. If it's your house, investing in running ethernet is the best solution. WiFi extenders can be useful for devices that don't demand the best performance. Powerline adapters are a quick-and-dirty way to hit dead spots that don't cost too much and usually work reasonably well.

> on the network he claimed should be my 2.4 router, there were only 2 bars

That'd be unusual in a house, but not terribly unusual in a crowded apartment, and might not be too strange in a condo. Were the network names something like 'WiFi Network' and 'WiFi Network_5G'? Or were they entirely different? Is there only a single WiFi router, or are there multiple access points/range extenders?

An app like this can be helpful in situations like this. It can show you the real signal strength in dBm instead of arbitrary bars, and might show you if there's channel congestion on the 2.4GHz network, which is about the only reason you'd see better signal strength on the 5GHz network. It'd also be handy to familiarize yourself with it if you're planning on moving soon, as you can use it at your new place to help you find an ideal spot for your router.

Make sure you're on the 5GHz network and not 2.4GHz. Otherwise, make sure there aren't any other routers in your area using the same channel as yours with a tool like this WiFi analyzer for Android. That app will also recommend a new channel to set your router to.

Using a WiFi analyzer app to see if you have too much interference on 1 channel, say you're on default 6 and it's full of APs. I run mine on 5Ghz to prevent this and don't have any issues.

I don't know a IOS one but if you got Android use this one. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer Because it works and open source.

Make sure the channels the wireless portion of your router is using are not being over used by others around you.
- WiFiAnalyzer (open-source) – Android Apps on Google Play - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

I've used that app, it's quite good.

but the one in OP's picture is this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_GB

I have also used this app and it is also quite good.

Either/or, really.

Fair enough. Not sure exactly what features you're looking for, but before I used the branded app, I was using this one And it did a good job.

I tried a bunch at one point, and they're all pretty much the same. Have to check the permissions though, there's a few that get intrusive if you don't pay attention.

Sorry to hear about you being in a hospital (for you or someone else). I haven't come across these problems myself, but what I can tell you it that it looks like you have connectivity problems to the HS servers. This is something to be expected, because the game requires a stable connection (preferably LAN for best results, and not Wifi) that doesn't change constantly, and doesn't lose packets along the way.

A very busy wifi network such as the one in a hospital can be the cause of these problems - also because your phone probably jumps constantly from access point to access point, due to lots of connections. Maybe you could try locking on one specific access point by using this app, but you would need to know what you're doing, and it may require great effort without actually knowing your problems would be solved. Maybe installing HS at home and then playing it through mobile data would help.

Use the open-source WiFiAnalyzer for Android to help troubleshoot your WiFi network.

Definitely make sure you are on your 5Ghz network. Your symptoms sound like you're experiencing congestion on 2.4Ghz.

Bin mir da nicht ganz sicher, aber bricht die Verbindung nicht für ein paar Sekunden ab, wenn der andere Kanal stärker wird? Könnte bei VOIP/Video-Telefonie oder großen Downloads problematisch werden.

Einen möglichst freien Kanal sollte man schon wählen, wenn man sich eh einen aussuchen muss. Da hilft zb folgende App: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=de

You can use a wifi analyzer to check signal from your phone and compare with a laptop to see if your phone is getting worse signal or noise.

Here is a free, opensource Android app

And a free Windows app

Generically named WiFi Analyzer is an open-source one. No advanced features I think, just for signal and channel strength checking.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Question, Just changed over to the Fireball Note 7 and went to reload apps. When I went to load WiFi Analyzer I saw this Screen Shots put it looking just like farproc except for square graphs instead of rounded ones. Anyone know what is up with this open source version?

If you have an android phone or tablet laying around Wireless Analyzer on Google play is pretty good. I used to scope out our AP deployment on a budget, does the job if you just have a couple APs.

I've also used wavemon on linux but you have to actually connect to a network for some stats.

i left apple for android because i purchased an ipod classic back in 06. it would only play mp3, alac, or wav. that means my entire library of flac audio would have to be converted just to be put on the audio player i bought, that only works through their software the way it wants to work. well i converted to linux full time back in 2012 and had to mod my ipod with rockbox just so i could change the music on it.

then my sister bought an iphone and macbook and had nothing but issues with them both. the "repair" people were trash and caused more problems than they fixed. which due to me not being apple certified i wasn't able to touch without voiding the warranty even though i'm comptia a+ certified.

then i was issued a work phone which just so happened to be an iphone (maybe 10 or 12 i forget which) the ui pissed me off not letting me put gaps between icons/folders, no battery %, and my favorite tech app wifianalyzer doesnt exist on ios and the ones that do are trash, and so many more little things annoyed me but these are the ones i remember.

also apple is extremely anti-right-to-repair going out of their way to prevent 3rd part repair techs (louis rossman) from fixing minor problems their techs refuse to fix or dont know how to fix... "oh your screen is bad and the entire screen assembly needs replaced that'll be $1100" apple tech, "oh this wire was loose i plugged it in and your screen works again, that'll be $5" louis rossman.

I recommend downloading a WiFi analyser like this on your phone, and checking which channels are congested. You can then change the channel of your WiFi network in your router settings. This actually helped me a lot with disconnects, because my router was defaulting to a really congested channel. Probably a lot of similar routers nearby and they all default to the same 5GHz channel.

For Android, WiFi Analyzer by VREM is my go to. It's open source and supports 6GHz spectrum too.

WiFi Analyzer by olgor.com is also great, but the free version has ads and it still doesn't support 6GHz.

If your devices are connecting to the router wirelessly, then that is the most likely bottleneck. To what device are you streaming Apple Fitness?

Depending on the distance from the router and how many walls or other obstructions are in the path, you might be dealing with a weak signal, or you might be connecting at 2.4Ghz, which has longer range and is better a passing through obstructions than 5Ghz, but (on your router) is limited to 300 Mbps.

Try connecting to the router with an Ethernet cable. If your streaming issues disappear, you know it's a WiFi issue.

I use WiFI Analyzer on my phone to measure signal strength. I'm sure there's an Apple equivalent.

1) Mete o router no centro da casa, o mais alto possível (ao nível da cabeça para ter menos interferência com a mobília da casa) - este é o ponto mais importante e vai te resolver praticamente todos os problemas

2) Saca https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer e junto ao teu router verifica qual o canal com menos trafego. Configura o router para usar esse canal

3) Configura o "channel width" para o mínimo. Vai te reduzir ligeiramente a velocidade mais vai te ajudar na interferência com outros routers

Se não ajudar:

4) Repetidores wifi não valem nada. Se o teu router suportar mesh networks esta é a melhor opção. Se não, compra um extensor por powerline (powerline+ap). Se estás a usar o router do ISP, então ignora este ponto e compra um router que suporte mesh networks e que funcione na banda dos 5ghz.

Nothing might be changed in your setup, but you may have neighbours moving in accidentally setting up their Wi-Fi to be on the same channel as your router. You can download utilities like Wi-Fi Analyzer to check on this and the receiption: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&gl=US

Even if you are on 2.4 GHz, it will still not be so slow unless your area is clogged full of Wi-Fi routers from your neighbours. Try Wi-Fi Analyzer on your Android phone (if you have one) to check if there are too many 2.4GHz Wi-Fi routers in your area.

I had a 50Mb/s connection earlier and even though I had ~20 other Wi-Fi signals shown in the Wi-Fi analyser and my own Wi-Fi signal strength being pretty low, I was still easily able to saturate my ISP's internet connection.

On the other hand, if you can get something like this in your area for that price, it is definitely worth buying specially since your laptop doesn't have an Ethernet port.

Out of curiosity, how congested are the channels your router is broadcasting on? There are mobile apps like WiFi Analyzer that let you visualize the spectrum. If there's a lot of crossover with other nearby APs then you might try manually changing the router's channel and/or channel bandwidth to avoid interference from nearby APs. Helped with a lot of problems I had in the past (randomly not being able to connect or connection randomly dropping).

General:

• Buying your own modem and router will save you money. If all you need is internet, can pay off in about a year.
• Wireless sucks to begin with, it really sucks in apartments. Do yourself a favor and get MoCA adapters, which can send a wired signal through coax that's already in your walls. These and cheap network switches if you need more than one connection in a room will save you a lot of headaches, especially for things like video calls that don't like high latency and packet drops.
• If you must use wireless, try to use 5GHz. And even then, use WifiAnalyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en) to make sure your networks aren't right on top of each other.

How large is the current channel? If it 20 or 40mhz you wont get 600+mbps. If its 80 you can. HOWEVER, if you live in a dense area such as an apartment building, townhome complex, condo, etc and maybe even in suburbs i would be careful. The reason is that the wider the channel the more people you are likely to interfere with. I suggest using a wifi analyzer such as https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_US&gl=US to see what if any channels are free.

If you have an android device you can use this WiFi Analyzer app to check for WiFi congestion. You're likely experiencing interference on your WiFi channel. Make sure you're using 5Ghz WiFi and configure your router to use a less congested channel.

If your phone can't maintain a Wi-Fi association it doesn't matter if Wi-Fi Calling is enabled, as you found calls will end-up dropping. Work this out first. WiFi Analyzer or Wifiman might be helpful.

For testing you can force Wi-Fi only by turning Airplane Mode on then turn on Wi-Fi. You can also do this normally where you expect Wi-Fi Calling to be used and want to avoid using cellular.

Packet loss can occur if there are other WiFi networks in neighborhood. I suggest you to check if its the case.
Use this app : WiFi Analyzer

Use that app and make sure the WiFi graphs are not touching each other for best experience.

>I checked the channel. Both devices are set to automatically switch channels. And both also switch between 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz automatically. So maybe that's it?

Yeah could be. You can either just manually select different channels or you could verify with wifi analyzer (android)or inSSIDeror something. If you do use one of those apps or one like them, you should be able to see what everyone around you is using and pick the least used channels for the best performance.

Sounds like you do have a legitimate problem to me and its likely your PC or the connection between the PC and the router. This is especially concerning if you are getting ping spikes to your router.

If you're physically connected via copper or fiber, you should swap out the cable to see if your issue goes away.

If you never installed the driver for your network adapter, you should try to install the latest one. If you did already do that, then you can try uninstalling it and see if Windows will install its own driver (make sure you download the latest driver to your drive, just in case). I have seen some wifi drivers in particular cause network issues like this.

You should check your network usage at 'idle' (not gaming or anything). Resource Monitor -> Network is a good place to see how much your network is being used and find out what is using it. It isn't normal for something running in the background to slam your network usage, even if spiking.

If you're connected via wifi you can try a phone app like wifi analyzer (android) and see if you have a bunch of channel congestion. If so you'll want to switch to a channel that appears to be least used and/or lower power from other sources.

Have you tried scanning the WiFi channels being used? You can do this on your phone. You could be competing against neighbours connections which could cause the drop outs. Channels 1, 6 or 11 are the only non-overlapping ones to pick for 2.4GHz. I don't recall the rule of thumb for 5ghz WiFi but I'm sure there are guides out there.

I use WiFi analyser for Android

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

I just use the no frills WiFi Analyzer. Works well and doesn't have options for floor plans like some apps do but it isn't buggy, doesn't have any ads, is open source and actively developed. Just be sure to check the FAQ out for WiFi scanning throttling and Location Service Permissions. I'd definitely re-enable throttling, if you can, after you are done though to help save on battery.

Many variables could be affecting your Internet connection speed:

• Your torrent app upload speed could be too high - set your global upload speed to about 20% of your total download speed otherwise it might eat up all your bandwidth.
• Your ISP might be throttling torrent traffic - if you don't already use one, try signing up for a VPN service. This will encrypt your data and could bypass any server-side throttling (unless the ISP is blanket-throttling all of your traffic).
• Your ISP may have over-sold capacity in your area - this is a common problem with cable-internet-based services. Too many users sharing network infrastructure can cause slow-downs. This is usually based on time of day.
• Your ISP might have faulty hardware - particularly if you are on a DSL connection, which is not prone to the problems of cable regarding overselling of service. Contact them and ask that they test your connection and inspect your DSLAM.
• It could be a hardware issue with your PC - failing RAM, storage or network hardware can all contribute to slow download speeds.
• Someone else on your network could be eating all your available bandwidth - are you are connecting via WiFi? A poorly-secured network can, particularly if you live in an apartment, result in squatters sucking up all your bandwidth. Try connecting your PC via Ethernet cable and disabling WiFi to test this. Change your WiFi password to something more secure and check for a firmware update.
• Have you purchased any new devices that could be interfering with the WiFi signal? Other electronics, especially cordless and cellular phones, can interfere with your WiFi signal strength. A cell-phone app like this can help identify signal-strength issues. Change your router's WiFi channel as appropriate.

there should be some instructions printed on your router, with what IP you need to enter to visit it (you do have to be on a device connected to it to do so, if this is your only pc, plug in an ethernet cable if possible) then look for enabling 2.4 ghz broadcast.

​

if you have an android phone - download this app - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_US&gl=US - then it'll list all the visible networks, (also useful for finding unoccupied channels).

OK, that excludes double-NATing.

BTW, 5Ghz is quite short range, you'll be seeing others' 2.4Ghz SSID broadcasts.

Do you know how to check for what Channel your wifi broadcasts on?

The 2.4 & 5 figures you mention are their Frequencies, not Channels.

It will tell you on your router's wifi config, they're usually 1-11, but may go to 16.

You'll then need to check what channels your neighbours are on. I use an Android app called WifiAnalyzer^(1) which has a useful graph view to see any overlaps.

You want to ensure there is no, or the least, overlap going on.

It's better to have your 2.4 & 5 on the same Channel (IMO), their Frequencies already separate them, just as with your radio.

^(1) Other apps are available of course

All those paid ones are based on this open-source one.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Same goes for all those video players except for mx player, are based on Vlc too.

Get the free and open-source my man. Cheers.

I just realized there are a bunch of WiFi analyzer apps, so make sure you're using this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_US&gl=US

Other apps work too and the instructions below are roughly the same for each app, but the open source one linked above is commonly recommended here on reddit.

Next, find your 5GHz network in the list of access points, if your phone is connected to the network it should be highlighted in the app. Take note of the "CH" number that is displayed right under your network's name. That number is the channel/frequency that your router is currently using.

If the app detects no other neighbor networks that use the same channel, that is a good thing. But if there are other networks that use the same channel, that could be causing interference. Depending on what router you are using, there are methods to change the channel that the 5GHz network is broadcasted on. You want to change the channel so that your network is the only network in the area that uses it's channel to minimize interference.

Do you have an Android device? This one is really good- https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Otherwise on windows theres also acrylic wifi analyzer free edition.

Channel 68 is probably a pretty safe bet though, if the closest network is on 52.

Make sure you are only trying to connect to the 2.4Ghz WiFi signal. The 5Ghz WiFi signal is too wide and my Chromebook doesn't recognize it. But my phone does. See the WiFi Analyzer app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en

[edited to add]

Does the Windows machine see the Starlink SSID at all? If it does change the SSID password to something simple like 123456789 and try to connect again. Then change the SSID password back and see if you can reconnect the Windows machine.

If you don't wanna (or can't) connect to those access points; an alternative would be this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

It's not as practical as having the signal levels drawn on a map like with those other apps; but with the time graph, you can have an idea on whether you're getting closer or further to the access points. There's a filter button at the top that will show a window where you can write the name of the access point to filter out all the other WiFis in the area to make it easier to read the graph. Keep in mind the signals might oscillate a bit, and phones usually don't update the readings very quickly, so wait a few seconds before moving to get an idea of the signal at each specific location.

If you're an Android user, download WiFi Analyzer (free, open source, no ads) turn on GPS [1] and fire it up to observe your wifi overlap and interference:

• https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer
• https://f-droid.org/en/packages/com.vrem.wifianalyzer/

[1] the newest Android 11 requires GPS to be active in order for the app to be able to scan, if you have an older Android OS version it may not be required

https://www.metageek.com/products/inssider/ On a pc

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer On an android phone.

...

2.4Ghz has very few bands (think highway lanes).

If too many devices and routers (Esp. Neighbors) use the Same band (eg 2.4 ghz band 1), internet transmissions "collide" and slow down.

If the neighbor is using band 1, you can switch to another band (like band 5 or whatever), and you'll likely experience fewer wifi 2.4Ghz issues.

Or, just jump to 5ghz where the router and devices are smart enough usually to auto jump to other bands and stay out of the way.

Perfect! Use this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer and go on the channel graph. Look for your networks name on the graph, and see if any other networks are in the same area

Ethernet cable directly to the router will always give a good results because bypasses radio interference from neighbors. If you can use it to your computer or to the Chromecast, do it. That's an easy win.

Talking on the WiFi side you can use an app like this to scan your area https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

You can see your neighbors networks, which frequencies they are using (2.4Ghz or 5Ghz) and which channels. It even gives "ratings" in red/yellow/green.

With that information you can go to your router configuration and change your network to a less busy area. If it's an old router, it might not have 5Ghz, which than might be a good idea to buy a new one; which case might be good to find someone to set it up for you.

Down/Up are important only up to a certain amount. Example, I'm sure someone with 5Mbps down won't be able to play, but after the recommended values 10/20/35 for 720/1080/4K, it won't change much.

But those are just for Stadia, if you have 2 ppl streaming YouTube and Netflix in the house, you'll be sharing those number with them and that's where QoS might be helpful. This is the configuration on the router that the Chromecast or your PC is priority and that it should take most of the cake.

You asked about the Up speed, as far as I know Google doesn't give minimum values for it, but I believe it's because it's very small. All devices have to send up is the button presses and mouse movement. That's really small potatoes if compared to the video stream. So I believe that latency (ping) and stability (packet loss) it what will be the biggest advantages; QoS might also help here to give priority to the controller.

I hope it helps, I know I used some technical terms, so feel free to ask anything you didn't understand

I have the same service and with a wired cat5e cable to my laptop it get 450/40Mbps. Some of work was needed on the cable connection and I recommend not having ANY additional cable (max 1.5m) between your wiring closet and the modem. They can see the quality of the cable side when you call.. Ziggo do offer options for mesh wifi that seem to have good results for others. I will be cabling and installing a wifi AP from Ubiquiti (nano HD). More generally, there are two vendors supplying cable modems to Ziggo, Arris and Compal. Compal seem to have quite some issues and is said to be less desirable than the Arris model. That said, no modem will do wifi well with lots of interference from neighbouring wifi routers. Try checking the spectrum with an android phone and https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

No doesn't sound like modules need replacement. sounds more like there's a lot of noise on the channels (frequency bands) used for wifi. you can use an app like this wifi analyzer to see how noisy certain channels are, and which band your network is on. (specifically channel rating will give you insight on your local wifi network, there it will mention which channels are best for your positoin). then in your wifi access point (router/modem/AP) you can change the channel to one it recommends. that should make your wifi better.

the reason why i say this is because you mentioned that it first only got crap in the evening, and that typically is the time that everyone starts using wifi (which causes noise making your connection shit). wifi is basically a cable you all have to share, channels are different wires. so if someone on one wire is using a lot of data, you won't have any left.

The same thing goes for mobile internet, if a lot of people are on mobile internet, they all have to share that single wire meaning everything slows down.

during lockdown everyone is home more, and uses wifi/mobile internet more, this probably made things worse for you.

In worse case scenario there could be a hardware defect, but that wouldn't be very likely imo. unless this all started after you dropped your phone or something. it can also be a combination of what i mentioned before. damaged antenna getting poor reception, but then you'd notice the bars dropping in the symbol.

I'm not sure from this, although there is an Android app called wifi analyzer that gives you a much more detailed look at what is on the channels. May be for iPhone also, not sure.

New WiFi signal(s) in the neighbourhood? If they use the same channel, you might get interference and lower signal quality. Maybe check with a WiFi Analyzer app like this one [1].

[1] https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Use an app like WiFi Analyzer [1] to check the conditions around you. Might be that there's too much interference and / or too many other WiFi signals on the same channel. Check your router for switching to another channel, if necessary. Also, some appliances like a faulty microwave our usage of outdated wireless electronics might wreck your signal. If you have reason to believe for the latter, even within the local neighbourhood, check if some sort of government agency runs signal checking in your country. At least in the US and Germany, I know there are agencies actively looking for jamming signals, even if they are not deliberately jamming certain frequency ranges.

[1] https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Check if one of your neighbors wifi signal channel is overlapping with yours using an app and change the channel of your wifi to make it not do that

This right here.

I had an issue a while back where my router was far enough away from my bedroom that the phone would periodically lose connection and switch to the mobile network.

I couldn't figure out why I was burning through cell data overnight (it wasn't anything nefarious, just nightly backups) but moving the router to a location with better coverage solved it.

My advice to /u/DSCarter_Tech: install WiFi Analyser (open source) and sniff your wireless landscape. Someone else's network may be stepping on yours.

I'm not sure what "WiFi Analyzer" you're referring to, but many of the Android WiFi analyzer apps work great on Chromebooks.

I've used several of them on my Chromebook to diagnose (and eventually fix!) WiFi problems we were having.

The apps I used also supported the Chromebook's large screen perfectly, which was great, because many of the displays were very informative dense (WiFi space is often crowded).

The app I still have installed (and works perfectly, just tested it) is this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

You can try checking out https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=4950-EBNM-7843.

In my experience, besides making sure I was connected to the 5GHz signal for my router, I had to set the channel being used to at least 149 to avoid congestion with my neighbors. You can use a wifi analyzer, such as WiFi Analyzer (open-source) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_US for Android to see which networks are overlapping with your network's signal.

On Android you can also get this app that is scanning what are the wifi channel used for each SSID. Can help to decide which channel youy want to have your wifi on

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

(there is 2.4 g and 5g option at the top to toggle between both)

Reduce the number of Wi-Fi devices if possible. Use proper Ethernet cabling where you can. If you cannot run them properly, I like the powerline adaptors if they are available in your country.

Use your phone/computer to scan the area for network channels. I use WiFi Analyzer. Then change your network channel to a less congested one. This may be a problem in an apartment block. Try and use 5Ghz where possible as there are more channels available

As for the computer don't worry too much I have a mid 2012 MBP and it still works fine and is able to saturate my 100mbps Internet connection and go as high as 400mbps on Wi-Fi if the signal is good.

If you're on android this app is really useful for analizing your wi-fi

Pick up a free app called WiFiAnalyzer and use it to change the channels on your router to something less congested by neighbors. Will probably help out.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

You might be able to squeeze more performance out of your current Wi-Fi router, depending on the unit you have.

1. Use Wi-Fi Analyser for Android to determine Wi-Fi channel congestion and select the least congested Wi-Fi bands for best performance. If using multiple APs, make sure to select appropriate bands based on their position to minimise channel overlap.
2. All Wi-Fi networks should use at least WPA2-PSK AES encryption for passphrases. Try to avoid the use of special characters and unicode - regular letters and numbers are best for compatibility.
3. Use the following Wi-Fi settings for optimal performance and compatibility
   1. 2.4Ghz Wi-Fi networks
      1. Mode = 802.11b/g/n
      2. Channel width = 20Mhz (40Mhz is only for close range and no interference)
      3. Channel 1,6 or 11
      4. Region (in order of preferability) = Australia / Other or World / China / USA. Europe has heavier limitations on 2.4Ghz Wi-Fi output.
   2. 5Ghz Wi-Fi networks
      1. Mode = 802.11n/ac (sometimes 802.11a/n/ac is required for very legacy stuff)
      2. Channel width = 80Mhz
      3. Channel 36 or 149 (Channel 100 is restricted for China-region devices)

Region (in order of preferability) = Australia / Other or World / USA / Europe. China is missing some 5Ghz bands.

From other devices any that use the 2.4ghz network or are they all dual band?

Try changing the 2.4ghz channel in the router settings. Only channels 1, 6 or 11 are useful. Use this app to get an idea which channel is least congested:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

You can use an app like WiFi Analyzer to see what other wifi networks are around, and what channels they're operating on. If the area isn't saturated across all channels, you can improve your WiFi by changing it to operate on a different channel.

Check mal mit einer Wifi-Analyzer-App, wie z.B. WiFi Analyzer welche Channels voll sind. Anschließend unterschiedliche Channels in der ConnectBox einstellen und testen. Hoffentlich hilft's!

Try this app to scan and select best wifi channel https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Watch the video in Google Play to learn more about the app and selecting channels

This kind of app should always be open source (you don't know what they will do with your data, and this is a Chinese app).

Better use WiFi Analyzer (also available on F-Droid here).

First of. Do a fresh restart of your router, check if your 5 ghz network has free channels with this app.Change your 5hgz to a specific channel (no automate selection)

Next check you frequency's. Mine works best with 20/40.

I disabled sliced encoding. Change Bitrate to insane. Works really good for me.

I agree.

There's a lot of "Wifi Analyzer" apps out there, but I've only had any good experiences with this one in terms of providing hard and reliable data: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_US (it's also zero-bullshit, ad-free, and open-source).

Can you give that a try and post a screenshot of the main screen that shows all of the networks around? It should look like the first screenshot in the Play Store.

Please feel free to block out the network names and hexadecimal BSSIDs if you want to keep weird Internet folks from knowing where you are, and/or we we can move this to PM. I'm interested in what that screenshot says about frequencies, signal strengths, and interference.

WifiAnalyzer on F-Droid or Google Play if you want an Android app. Make sure to use this exact version as they are a lot of shady clones on GP at least.

Häng dich mal per Kabel an deinen Router und schau, was speedtest.net zurückgibt. Dann mach das gleiche per WLAN.

Wenn es da einen Unterschied gibt, lad dir auf dein Telefon Wifi Analyzer ( https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer ) und laufe deine Wohnung ab. Stell auf deinem Router einen Kanal ein, der inklusive der Kanäle drunter und drüber möglichst unbelegt ist, idealerweise im 5GHz Band.

Wenn 2.4GHz bei dir extrem voll ist und dein Router kein 5GHz kann, leih dir einen AccessPoint der das kann und probier aus, ob das Besserung bringt. Wenn ja, kauf dir was von AVM mit beiden Bändern und schmeiß den Vodafone Router weg.

If plugging in to the router helps, going to AC might help. Keep in mind, range is much shorter for AC. Smaller wavelengths have more trouble penetrating things and loss even through air is greater.

What is your current wireless access point? Changing APs can often help tremendously. I have 2 ISPs(work pays for one and I pay for the other), and both of their router/access points were awful, I use a Ubiquiti Unifi mesh, but it's a little pricey(thanks work!).

Also check channel congestion where your AP is and make sure to pick a channel that's the least congested as possible. I use this as it's open source, but it is a little cumbersome.

How fast is your internet connection? If it's not faster than your N(2.4ghz) connection then a new adapter might not help. I setup my wireless network to make sure that I can take advantage of my internet speeds no matter where I am on my property.

Edit: https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/ is a wealth of information to build out stellar home networks.

I use a lot of public WiFi too, so here's what I found...

First, make sure there really isn't any 5 Ghz available. Most commercial APs are dual-band but use the same SSID for both the 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz bands... and Windows will often just use the 2.4 Ghz band since it usually has a stronger radio signal (although messy). There is a very good chance the library does actually have 5 Ghz available so try forcing Windows to only use 5 Ghz by going into the network adapter settings. You can also use a WiFi Analyzer on an Android phone to verify what is running in the 5 Ghz band.

However if the location is unfortunate enough to not have 5 Ghz, you can get better performance by keeping your bandwidth low (like 5-10 Mbps). It also helps using H.265 if your hardware supports it.

There's a number of things you can do, reset your WiFi and mobile network settings (not factory reset your phone), download This to see if any other networks are interfering with your WiFi, log into your router and change channels to one that is not overlapping with another network, use a private dns server - e.g dns.adguard.com can be added into your private dns settings on your network settings on your phone - or 8.8.8.8 or whatever you feel happy to use.

Forgot to mention that my WiFi was slow on my phone as well, I use a Motorola One and before this I had a Pixel 3a which had the same problem, I downloaded f-droid then installed Blokada and it has improved the WiFi speeds on my phone. Yes f-droid is safe to install and use, as is Blokada.

WiFi Analizer (open-source) oppure NetX Network Tools, ma consiglio la versione PRO

Sounds like you have a huge amount of interference. -54 right next to the router (don't put it within 2 feet, as that can make signal worse) is really not good at all. Right near the router should get down into the -30dBm range.

Have you tried a different wifi channel on your router to see if it improves? Maybe everyone around you is on that channel. If you have an Android device, you can install Wifi Analyzer and view the channel graph to see if there's a better channel to choose that's less occupied.

Log in to your wifi router. You usually do that via web browser, going to http://192.168.0.1 or http://192.168.1.1 . If none of these brings you the router web page, comment back for further hints.

Once you logged in, look for the security configuration page.

You don't need to change ssid (your wifi network name) nor the channel as other redditor suggested (at least not for security reasons). You can leave the channel setting as "Auto" (or if you want to go nerdier, download a wifi scanning app and look for a vacant channel).

You need to change your wifi password, and I'd also change the web login password.

You can also make sure that on the security page you have the security type set to "wpa2 personal", and if configurable, "aes".

Browse the configuration pages, and if you find a way to disable WPS, disable it.

If you feel you're comfortable with a more advanced setting, you can also look for a MAC filter configuration page, and allow only your devices MAC addresses to connect. MAC is a unique identifier each hardware has (spoofable by bad guys, but nothing is 100% safe; you can only make it more difficult).

Now, chances are you're wifi is not being hacked, but actually your neighbors are also using wifi, and there's too much noise/interference (the number of wifi channels is limited; when a lot of routers are in use nearby, quality becomes shitty).

For that, the solutions can be:

• Download a wifi scanner app on your phone, and use it to look for an empty (or less crowded) channel, and set your router to use that channel. Some apps will select the best available channel for you. I use this, no ads, open source, free.

• Maybe you'll find out the 2.4GHz channels are all crowded. If your router is 2.4GHz only and your devices support 5GHz, replace your router with one that has 5GHz (and if your devices can handle, look for one that has 802.11ac, a faster, newer wifi type).

• For gaming and video, I always prefer cable. My consoles are connected with cat5e ethernet cables although they support wifi and are very close to the router. Both my router and switch are 1Gbps. Yeah, modern wifi can get beyond 1Gbps, but in my experience it can't beat the latency, stability, and consistence of plain old metal wires.

You can double-check if your problem is really the wifi part by connecting your console or pc using an ethernet cable directly to the router and running a speed test (I suggest fast.com, which simulates actual Netflix traffic, or the youtube speed test, which tests from the youtube servers. Normal speed tests can get "vip" treatment by your ISP, but these two test with actual youtube/netflix traffic.

If your connection (game, netflix, youtube) still sucks connected with an Ethernet cable, then your problem is not the wifi, but either your router, or your link with the ISP, or your ISP just sucks.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

I prefer WifiAnalyzer (open-source) because it's pretty much the same thing (graphs not as pretty), but without ads.

An Open Source Alternative

They're all similar.

I'm using WiFi Analyzer (open-source) and it's all I need in terms of WiFi information...

WiFiAnalyzer by VREM has worked well for me. It is free and open source.

5ghz doesn't penetrate walls or other solid objects very well. A well-placed range extender could solve your bedroom problem. Er... Well, the problem you described. Low frequencies penetrate better--similar to sound. When someone is playing annoying music two houses down, it's usually the bass thump that reaches you.

I have a relatively expensive TP-Link RE450 and cheap TP-Link WA801ND and they both work very well for me. If you don't need 802.11ac, I'd go with a $25 802.11n extender.

Radio waves reflect, refract, and diffract like visible light. The locations of strong & weak signals are often surprising. Use an app that reports signal strength and find a spot with a good signal between your router & bedroom. Put a repeater there. Even after making a heat map of our house, I found that in practice I had to do a bit of trial & error to find the best spot.

In my opinion, this one is a much better WiFiAnalyzer App:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

No Ads and open source.

Get this one instead https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

WiFiAnalyzer (open-source)

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer open source WiFi app, no ads

Just want to add, there's an open source analyzer for Android that's actually better than the one you linked.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Wifi interference can be a tough nut to crack some time. There are a lot of things that can interfere with a signal. Even just general electrical noise from large appliances or from noisy power supplies can cause issues. Running your microwave causes interference.

Do you know if the zigbee operates on one of the pre-defined wifi channels? Or does it just exist somewhere in the 2.4ghz or 5ghz spectrum? If it operates in one of the pre-defined channels then it can absolutely be getting interfered with by a signal from another router / access point. If not, I think it's more likely that the interference is coming from somewhere else.

I typically do two things when I'm troubleshooting wifi interference. I have an android phone and I use the wifianalyzer app to see what channels are mostly empty. Then I configure the clients devices to use the channels with highest chance of giving them a more reliable connection. This can be affected by a number of things and can sometimes take some trial and error.

For electrical noise and signal strength. Positioning of the access point is really important, same as it would be for the base station for your security system. If you have it sitting directly next to dense physical objects then it's likely having a hard time sending/receiving signals. Same goes for the cameras that are trying to connect to it. Lower frequencies in the 2.4Ghz range are better than 5Ghz at going through physical objects, but it still affects them.

Removing sources of electrical noise near them, especially the base station can help too. For that, I like to use a cheap portable AM radio with an integrated antenna. Set it for a random station that doesn't have any signal coming in and bring it close to power jacks, power supplies, appliances and the like. If you want to see just how much interference your microwave makes then turn it on and get close to it with an AM radio. It doesn't operate in the same frequency range as WIFI but it is good at picking up EMI.

I recently had a customer who had issues with their wifi signal. And I found that they had both an old 2.4GHz cordless phone next to their access point and it was plugged into a wall plug with integrated USB charging ports. Both of them were giving off a ton of EMI and the signal noticeably improved when it was moved away from them.

Yeah of course! I use this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer pretty intuitive to get an idea of how much congestion you have

Have you tried the open source version? It's been updated recently and works for me now on Pie:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Ok, so assuming we're talking about this model (and I'm not missing some minor variation), it's not a bad router. It's also not great.
 
I am hesitant to blame any slowness on local saturation. It's not outside the realm of possibility, but given the details you've provided it doesn't sound likely.
 

WiFi, Baby!

Lets talk about the WiFi first. This router is a 802.11ac router with THEORETICAL speeds of up to 1300+ Mbps (on the 5 GHz band). This is all of course assuming best possible field conditions as well. No obstacles, no interference, no other routers clogging the channels, etc.
 

Realistically, even top tier 802.11ac routers would rarely get even up to 200 Mbps, with an average of somewhere in the range of 70 to 100+ Mbps.
 

That's just the routers end, we don't yet know what your device(s) wireless ability is. Use something like Speccy to get the specs of your network card, WiFi adapter, or Motherboard model number on your primary device.
 

Armed with that info we can check to see if it's capable of 802.11ac speeds. It's possible it has 802.11n or lower only; which would give you speeds of 40 to 80+ Mbps regardless of how fast your router is.
 

Band Optimization

We all know the spectrum is limited, so obviously make sure your router is set to the least crowded channel available. If you live in an apartment complex this can be especially frustrating.
 

I recommend WiFiInfoView from Nirsoft, or if you have an Android device there is WiFiAnalyzer (open-source) to find the clearest channel available in your area to set your router to.
 

Ethernet is king!

For arguments sake, lets say your primary device is 802.11ac compatible, and lets say you reach even half of the theoretical speeds possible... Ethernet (using Cat5e or Cat6) is still going to be faster, since the router is of course 10/100/1000 Mbps (Gigabit Ethernet) compatible.
 

I understand of course it's not always feasible to string Ethernet cables everywhere; and sometimes you just want to ~~watch porn~~ play games or watch Netflix on the couch.
 

Windows Optimization

I often recommend people try running SpeedGuide.com's TCP Optimizer to give Windows a little tweak. Selecting the "Optimal" config option is typically best for most people. I always recommend creating a restore point before hitting apply.
 

Router Recommendations!

This is always tricky, because every-ones use case, home setup, preferences, experience and budget differ. If you end up ditching the Nighthawk, I suggest you visit reputable sites and do some comparison shopping.

• Tom's Hardware
• The Wirecutter
• Tech Radar
   
  

I myself have been rocking an ASUS Ac66u for many years now, with some custom firmware it's lasted a lot longer than it should have.
 

Let us know about the specs of your motherboard/NIC card, double check any Ethernet cords being used are at least Cat5e (MonoPrice sells good quality cables at very good prices.) and report back.
 

Online Tools!

Last thing, here are some sites that can help you maybe compare your speed tests.
 

• Internet Health Test

• SourceForge Speed Test

• Speedof.Me HTML5 Speed Test

• SpeedSmart

• ThinkBroadband Test File Downloads

I use a phone app to measure Wifi signal strength. The app I used is this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en

It's free and has no ads.

Independiente del proveedor de internet que tengas es recomendable tener un router wifi aparte con buena capacidad, de nada vale tener una conexión a internet de 100 Mb cuando la velocidad maxima que tu router inlambrico soporta sea de 54 Mbps.

Lo que primero debes hacer es revisar como está el ambiente wifi de tu casa o apartamento, para esto puedes descargar una aplicacion que te permite ver cuantas redes inalambricas hay a tu alrededor, que canales usan y de que marca son (la aplicacion para android es esta, no hay version para iOS) ya que esta información es muy importante para poder alcanzar mayor velocidad.

El punto ideal para poder tener una mayor velocidad y cobertura wifi es seleccionando un canal que esté poco usado (varía dependiendo las condiciones pero los canales del 1 al 4 y del 8 al 12 son los menos usados), para esto debes consultar el manual de tu modem que suministra tu proveedor (en google puedes buscar la marca y modelo de tu modem mas el termino "acceso admin" y el nombre de tu proveedor de internet -en este caso claro-), revisar los ajustes de wifi y seleccionar el canal de tu preferencia.

La otra solucion es simplemente comprar un mejor router inalambrico que pueda garantizarte una mejor cobertura y velocidad, existen muchas marcas y modelos de diversos presupuesto pero generalmente me va muy bien con router inalambricos marca tp-link ya que tienen caracteristicas muy buenas y son relativamente baratos, otra marca que no es muy conocida aquí pero es excelente es xiaomi y ofrece tambien unos routers excelentes (personalmente tengo un xiaomi mi router 3 con el firmware de asus instalado y funciona muy bien), apple tambien fabrica (fabricaba pues, dejaron de hacerlos) una serie de routers muy buenos pero son algo costosos, sin embargo, buscando bien puedes encontrar alguno a buen precio.

Una recomendación adicional, a la hora de escoger un router inalambrico ten en cuenta la velocidad de internet que tienes contratada, si tienes una velocidad de internet de mas de 50 Mb te recomiendo comprar un router que sea doble banda de 2.4 Ghz y 5.8 ghz (transmite 2 redes inalambricas en frecuencias distintas, la frecuencia mas alta es la mas rapida pero la de menor alcance y funciona muy bien con consolas y tabletas).

Bear in I'm not an electrical engineer or coder, nonetheless here are my recommendations:

There are broadly 2 states of consumption for a podcast app for which you can reliably test:

1 - Active - playing an audio podcast, how much battery is used, and

2 - Passive - finished playing but has been active in the recent past;

(to test it's own adherence to Android policies (Doze, sleep, syncing, wakelocks etc), and attention to good coding design to minimise background consumption when not actively using the app.)

Firstly, for both testing modes, you want to keep the playing field as level as possible, for an objective comparison. Think of it a little like those smartphone battery test videos on Youtube. These aren't necessarily 'real-world' circumstances, as each person will use their device under different conditions:

• some will use wifi, others mobile data, at different distances to the router or tower, with walls and other nearby devices causing interference, so the phone radio will vary it's output;
• some will stream the podcast, others will download it in advance;
• some will play it off the internal memory, others an SD Card;
• some may listen while the screen is on, others off;
• some may manually sync their library when opening the app, other's may prefer it to do this periodically by itself
• some may switch off automatic features of the app; eg download new episodes, and auto-cleanup or deletion of played/old podcasts,
• some may let it finish playing and leave it alone until the next time they use it; other's might utilise the apps built-in sleep timer to close the app after a set amount of time, or when the podcast finishes playback;
• some will listen to an audio podcast, others video;
• some may only use the podcast app, others will multi-task using other power consuming apps concurrently;
• some may use a variety of earbuds or bluetooth speakers, with different consumption patterns than the built-in speaker;
• other variables such as different age of the device (battery condition), ambient temperature, a whole raft of things.

So many variables - yikes!

To test even a majority of the use-cases above, would likely take weeks and a massive spreadsheet to compile; so unless you are a masochist lol, to avoid a big headache for yourself and avoid as much as possible of the above variables, I would recommend the approach of simplicity, replicating a set of conditions which may not be directly applicable to all users, but at the very least enable as close to an apples-for apples comparison between apps as possible:

• Ensure your device is in the same physical location and position for each test;
• Try and ensure a similar ambient temperature for each test;
• Streaming anything has its own cornucopia of power variances, making parity difficult. For this reason I would definitely download an audio podcast to your device's internal storage, and use this same podcast for all your battery tests.
  • You'll need a podcast that runs for a sufficient length to adequately test more than a few percent battery consumption, so something that runs for an hour minimum would be ideal;
  • IF you decide to test with streaming, keep in mind:
  • have your device as close to your wifi router as possible, to avoid variable interference from other networks, microwave ovens, cordless phones, bluetooth devices etc. These all utilise the 2.4Ghz band and can affect wifi signal strength;
  • If you can use 5Ghz, this is better as it will most likely avoid nearly all interference; this is set in the router html web configuration page, and also by selecting the 5Ghz wifi network in your device settings;
  • For either band, you can try WifiAnalyzer (open source) to choose the best channel for your location (in your router) beforehand.
• Turn off/don't use any of the built-in sleep timers in each app. Just let it finish playing, as the majority of users probably do. Enabling any type of auto-close function might adversely affect the Passive test, and some podcast apps either don't have this feature, or implement it in different ways;
• In your device settings, set both Wifi and Mobile radios to remain on during sleep, as this is the default the average person probably uses;
• Video podcasts introduce another layer of complexity to parity-testing between apps; different or variable bitrates, codecs, screen brightness, LCD vs OLED, etc. Unless you REALLY want to go the extra mile, for the battery test portion of your review, I'd suggest only testing battery life with an audio podcast.
• Play back the podcast through your devices' in-built speakers; this will eliminate variables from different earbuds, headphones, adapters, wired, bluetooth etc;
  • or do all tests through your own earbuds; either way, do them all the same way consistently;
• Update your device with all available OTA OS updates; state the version you are using during the test;
• If possible use an OEM ROM, as this is what the vast majority of people use;
• Disable/uninstall any battery saving apps such as Greenify, or anything that will "force-close" apps;
• Depending on the brand of your device, disable or turn off power saving modes, or 'close on screen off' settings etc
• Start each test at 100% battery;
• Only have a single podcast app installed at the same time, other's unknown background behaviour might cause unwanted variances;
• Clear all apps from memory, then reboot your device before each test;
• In each podcast app, prior to testing, go to settings/options:
  • turn off all automated functions; ie. Autosync, auto-download new episodes, autodelete or cleanup, anything that can add random, uncontrolled variables during the testing phase;
  • turn off 'silence skipping' if available, this can change the overall length of playback;
• During testing, leave the app on the playback screen, not the library or explore tabs/screens, as this may cause a periodically refresh artwork and/or available sources from the servers.

To give readers confidence in the validity of the results based on your own testing, I would list (as far as practicable) the above conditions and methodologies used for your testing

An app such as GSam Battery Monitor Pro might give you some additional app-usage statistics above what your device's Battery Usage function will.

Now finally for the 2 tests per-app!

1 - Active

• Pretty simple. Once the device has been memory-cleared and rebooted as above, fire up the podcast app you will be testing;
• Play the downloaded podcast;
• Once finished, record the measured consumption, in
  • Total device battery % used
  • Podcast app battery % used
  • milliampere-hours (mAh) used by the podcast app being tested (from the separate measurement app as mentioned above)
• Record this in your review as "Active Battery Consumption Used Per Podcast App" or similar;

2 - Passive

• You'll need to do this at night, before you sleep, so as to allow enough time to observe and measure what the podcast app does in the background, without your own usage and other apps interfering with an objective measurement
• after the Active test has been completed and measurements taken (as above)
  • note exactly how much time has passed since the podcast finished playing. Ensure this time is the same for each test. set an alarm if necessary.
  • without starting the podcast app, go into the apps properties screen, and see if the 'Force-Stop' button is active or greyed out. i.e. is the app still running?
  • record the measured consumption, in
    • Total device battery % used
    • Podcast app battery % used
    • milliampere-hours (mAh) used by the podcast app being tested (from separate measurement app as mentioned above)
  • Deduct the Active figures from these new totals, to arrive at the Passive battery consumption values.
  • Record this in your review as "Passive Battery Consumption Used Per Podcast App" or similar.
  • Uninstall the app, install the next one, and repeat the steps above for the Active and Passive tests for all podcast apps you're reviewing.

The Passive stage is where things can get interesting, and will possibly be of most interest to readers of your review. I've used maybe 10 or so different podcast apps over the years, and their passive behaviour can vary quite a lot. Some apps once finished, if I go into the Android app Properties afterwards (sometimes not straight away), the 'Force-Stop" button is greyed out. i.e. the app has either closed itself, or allowed Android to do so after a period of non-usage.

Conversely, recently I noticed that Pocketcasts appeared to be still running in the background many hours (~20) after I'd used it. I tried manually using Force-Stop, but then it would restart itself after a short time. It even restarted itself when I was using Greenify. In the devices battery usage screen, it showed Pocketcasts as having used 11.1% of the battery, considerably more than even the notorious Google Play Services system app! Not having given close scrutiny to my battery breakdown per app each hour, I couldn't reliably determine how much of this 11.1% was from when the app was actually Active while I was listening to the podcast (about an hour's length), vs how much it had used while passive in the approx. 19 hours since playback ceased.

When I queried the developer, they advised me that "The app doesn't run in the background and it stops when you hit pause. What will keep running roughly once an hour for a few seconds is a tiny refresh task. It's run by the job scheduler which will run it when it deems the radios are already on and conditions are right. What I'm trying to say is that while I appreciate your feedback, a small amount of anecdotal evidence is tempting to paint a narrative with, but we have far more testing and data. We take battery life very seriously."

Fair enough. Sound legit. I'm aware that this particular dev (and app) has a very good reputation. What they didn't address or explain sufficiently however (or even ask me about my own usage patterns to determine if there is actually a problem), was why the app runs once an hour at all. If I have purposely elected to have every possible auto type setting in the app set to off, then why does it need to do this at all? There is no apparent need for the app to do any remote syncing; in fact I have it explicitly set to only refresh/sy*nc upon opening the *app.

From my admittedly limited knowledge of how Android Doze works, wouldn't the app running this (why necessary?) refresh task prevent the device from entering the deep-sleep doze mode that Oreo (or Nougat, can't recall sorry) introduced?

Like I said, I'm not a coder, and he may well be technically right, but for me at least Pocketcasts has always used what seems to me to be too much battery (iPhone 6+, Huawei P9, Nexus 6P and now Huaweui Mate 9). It's a pity, because I really love this app, it's UI, design, functionality and regular updates are brilliant, but I continue to feel unsettled using it, due to it's seemingly aggressive background battery usage. If they take battery life so seriously, then some better assurances are warranted to assuage user-concerns, especially given voluntary user-feedback with evidence of battery usage that seems too high.

Since then I have uninstalled Pocketcasts and am using Podcast Addict. Last night I listened to a similar length 1 hour podcast (same source, different episode), and now after ~10 hours, the app is till in its Stopped state (Force-Stop is greyed out), and (app) battery usage is 1.95%. Quite a big difference from 11.1%! In very casual testing of a variety of podcast apps over the past few years, I've noticed that some stay running in the background like Pocketcasts, and others will be 'properly' closed.

For additional relevance, as my device recently upgraded from Android 7.0 to 8.0 Oreo, I have recently uninstalled Greenify and am just using Oreo's Auto Manage setting for all apps. letting the OS decide how to handle apps for best power saving and performance. Anecdotally, it feels as though I'm now getting more battery life without using Greenify (non-rooted).

Apologies for the wall of text, wanting to be thorough! Good luck, really looking forward to your review and results, I've been Googling for such a test, and this is much-needed and overdue!

I used this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Android: https://vremsoftwaredevelopment.github.io/WiFiAnalyzer/
Play Store link: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Windows 10: https://www.matthafner.com/wifianalyzer
Windows Store link: https://www.microsoft.com/store/apps/9NBLGGH33N0N

Open sourced https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer is enough for me :)

Generally speaking fiber is better than cable and DSL.

Use the open source WiFiAnalyzer app to analyze her WiFi.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Google "how does wifi channels work", or YouTube. Should give you an idea. If not, let me know and I'll help you out.

This one is a bit nicer and doesn't have ads: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

There's a much better wifi analyzer with no ads: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer The developer even open-sourced their code.

VREM WiFi Analyzer (open-source) is my favorite:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en

You can either use this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Or fing app.

This one https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_US&gl=US

>Network Analyzer Pro

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Try this app:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

First and foremost - I don't know what codec (video format) Stadia uses and if it's different for different resolutions. But speaking generally, 4K streams (video, not necessarily Stadia) use a newer codec that allows for half the file size/bitrate of the previous generation codec. This means lower demand from the network to stream. Many 1080 and less streams (again, speaking generally) still use the older codec which can be twice as large. I do know Stadia isn't primarily using those 2 codecs, but not sure if they're taking a similar approach.

However, it can take some time to get your network worked out to run properly. It can be a simple network problem and a coincidence. Lots can be at play:

• If using a VPN or adblockers that work via VPN can cause issues
• 5 Ghz vs 2.4 Ghz wifi makes a difference - 5 Ghz offers higher bandwidth/speed, but reduced range and wall penetration. You should aim for 5 Ghz, but expect performance to be spottier than 2.4. 2.4 Ghz can work, but has more interference from neighboring wifi and other electronics.
• Related to the previous post - your wifi could offer 5 Ghz and 2.4 Ghz bands, but combined them into 1. If separate, you'd see 2 networks for your home. If you have a modern router and only see 1 network, chances are they're combined. If combined, the idea is to simplify this for less tech-savvy users and "it just works." The device connecting or router is supposed to switch you back and forth between 5 and 2.4 Ghz as needed but my own experience has shown it never does.
• Router settings can impact overall performance, especially related to bandwidth management (general term). Unrelated to Stadia, I discovered this the hard way several years ago. Took a couple of months to figure out why my internet would slow to an unusable crawl seemingly at random. Turned out, backing up files to the cloud crippled my network - hogged all bandwidth. I had just changed ISPs and they offered slower speeds, but faster upload. The slower speeds made the bandwidth mismanagement problem more obvious - wouldn't have noticed on a faster plat, but it would have still been there. The settings to explore will vary from router to router, but their description should relate to limiting download or upload speeds by service or device. Usually, it's called QoS or Quality of Services. There may be newer, more efficient options available too.
• and it could be as simple as your router is using channels that are too crowded - interference. If you're tech savvy, you can use WiFi Analyzer (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer) to explore your network a bit. Under the Channel Graph section, the higher the graph is, the stronger the signal. The width represents the channels that network is using. You want your network to be as isolated as possible from other networks. Basically, if they're overlapping, that's bad. you'll never get them completely separate without some overlap, but you want to keep it as separate as possible. You can manually change the channels in the router settings (tedious) or you can restart the router and it should automatically select the channels with the least interference. And before you ask why this happens - a neighbor could have restarted their router and it picked channels that are interfering with yours. Or yours might have. Or someone manually chose Channel X because a website or YouTube video told them it's the best one to use without any regard to other networks in range. And keep in mind they're going to see different networks than you can due to distance/location.

Sorry, networking can be complicated and tricky.

Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=de&gl=US

iOS: AirPort App (enable WiFi Scanning in iOS Settings)

My apologies. To be fair, I am still bitter from being placed in the same situation over the years with my own family. No shade intended.

I suppose there could be an (unlikely) scenario where the headset continues to broadcast after wifi has been disabled, but it's tricky to detect. One would need a spectrum analyzer or a network monitor at the very least.

If you're tech savvy, Wireshark is an invaluable tool for network analysis, but you might need something like Kismet. I prefer the former, but the latter should help to rule out EM interference.

If you're on Android, WiFiAnalyzer might give you some clues.

Now that I think about it, try turning on the headset without activating the controllers compared to waking both controllers. I think they're Bluetooth, but they could be some WiFi Direct variant. Just an idea.

for Android I use this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

If you're on Android you could try something like:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

This will help you identify bad channels.

There are some apps that let you do a floor plan if you pay. There may be some free version. There is the underrated (seems like its ad latent competition by the same name gets more google search results) open source WiFi Analyzer for Android. Note that Android may limit wifi scanning to save power. So here's some info about how to bypass it if you can. The also have some usage tips.

For Windows there is InSSIDer and the lite version is free. Looks like their TLS (https) certificate expired today, so you're going to get an unsecure warning.

For paid, there's Netspot for Windows, MacOS and Windows with floor plans and such but it is ~$50. I think the free version limits you to only 3 data points.

What you do is with one of these open, you walk to your desired spots around the location and check both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. The things you want to check for are strength of your own signal but also you want to check for channels other wifi sources are using and their power compared to your own power. I wouldn't depend on the "Auto" channel select feature for your router/access points. I recommend changing to the best channel manually.

Once you have your best channel selected for both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, print out a floor plan for your building/home/whatever. You could use something like draw.io -> Create new diagram -> Other -> Floor Plan or you could of course use something like Visio or even use basic shapes in your favorite graphics application.

You'll then want to go to each location where you'd potentially think about placing your router, wifi access points or mesh nodes. On the floor plan I'd jot down either the power or word or rating like this:

• -30 dBm or great = Great or 10 out of 10 max
• -65 dBm or greater = Good or 7 out of 10 max
• -70 dBm or greater = OK or 5 out of 10 max
• -71 dBm or less = poor or unusable or 0

Some more tips:

• A good rule of thumb is to place mesh nodes or wireless access points no less than 25 feet from the wifi source by unobstructed line of sight so that they don't interfere. Walls and ceilings, depending on the type of material lessen this of course. Concrete with rebar is going to block a lot more signal strength than dry wall for example. You can use your best guess and then check after if you need to.
• Concrete blocks a lot, masonry block is just about as bad, brick is blocks signal noticeably but much less the equivalent concrete and usually isn't as bad as you'd think, wood and drywall aren't too bad considering and glass does block some signal but its pretty minimal. If you have concrete or masonry blocks you're probably going to want to resort either dropping cabling throughout the house to a central switch that is then cabled to a router for cable connectable devices or for wireless access points, either to the switch or straight to the router.
• Think three dimensionally for multi-story places. The room on another floor only 20 ft. away may have a ceiling and wall between it and the source.
• Try to leave the middle/crossover of each node/WAP away from an area of main use if possible so that there's less of a chance of your devices switching between them constantly.
• The crossover may not be obvious for buildings that aren't uniform between each point and may take another wifi check to see. The cross over will be wherever the signal strength is roughly the same between multiple wireless points and may take you doing another survey if you see evidence of the devices switching back and forth (ping spikes for example).
• If you're able to control your transmit power on your wifi devices, turning them up is not always the best option and could make it worse (causing antennation to itself and interference to other devices).

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer time graph

> My device has flaky wifi that is often (temporarily) improved by restarting, so I probably reboot my device a lot more than most users.

I don't think restarting is a good solution this issue. Your issue might be coming from three reasons:

Possible Reason 1: You're too far away from router. Try getting closer to it and see if it fixes it.

*Possible Solutions to Reason 1: *

1-Get closer to your router

2-Use a wifi range extender

3-Use a Linux compatible usb wifi adapter with dual antennas

Possible Reason 2: Your router is using same channel as your neighbour's router, which causes interference. Use a Wifi Analyzer(This one for example) application see if routers around you are using same channels.

*Possible Solution to Reason 2: *

Change your wifi channel to a less crowded one from your router's settings. For more detailed instructions i recommend Googling "your router's brand and model+change wireless channel"

Possible Reason 3: Ip conflict caused inside your router between your devices. When this problem happens try disconnecting one of your other devices and see if your problematic device is able to connect

*Possible Solution to Reason 3: *

Note the current used local ip adressses pool(a.k.a. Wlan connected devices etc.) from your router settings(You can generally get into your router's settings by visiting 192.168.2.1 from your web browser), and set a static ip that is also unused on your router(192.168.2.32 for example) for your problematic device

Get the analyzer app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

And see if the channel your router is picking is really congested. Start there.

Try this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer and check if phone is seeing your wifi

For those of you interested in a Wifi Analyzer, better have a look at WiFi Analyzer (open-source)

Yes, remotes also operate on the same frequency.

Do you have a lot of wifi networks in your area?

About the solution:

• Ignore the Bluetooth devices, they shouldn't cause much interference.
• If you own dual band router, you can just turn off the 2.4Ghz frequency if 5Ghz covers all of your house and is supported by all devices.
• If for any reason, you need have 2.4 Ghz Wifi running. Then turn on/off your router and ideally it should automatically switch to a channel which doesn't cause interference.
  • If the interference continues to exist, download Wifi Analyzer (Open Source) from playstore, check the channel width your wifi is operating at (https://imgur.com/a/YASjC68) .
  • If it's 20 Mhz, skip to the next step. If it's 40 Mhz, go into your router settings and set the channel width manually to 20 Mhz.
  • After settings the channel width to 20 Mhz, the interference continues to exist, there is one final thing you could try. Check the channel graph tab in Wifi Analyzer, and see which channel of 1,6,11 is the least congested. Manually set the channel to 1,6 or 11 from router settings. You may even try all three of them one by one.

If you have confirmed that the interference does not exist when your wifi is off, and is continuing to exist after you have tried the above solution, if am afraid there is nothing more that can be done except switching to 5Ghz.

High milliseconds in Wi-Fi means interference from another Wi-Fi network on the same communication channel (1-6-11 in 2.4Ghz or 38-46-151-159 in 5Ghz), when a user from the other network is actively using it . Your own devices can also generate this problem, small peaks at 300-600-900ms for a second and then return to normal, in the case of interference you will obtain a performance between 1-20 Mbps in general. The rebound on solid objects and the distance from the client (smartphone / notebook) to the router also influence.

By simply existing (announcing the name of the network) the interference is minimal, but with 10 networks on the same channel they do make a considerable difference. You can find this problem in buildings and complexes with more than 100 networks around.

If you are going to carry out a test, first check with a speedtest that the connection works correctly by cable (speedtest.net + nperf.com). Then try 2.4Ghz in channel width of 20Mhz (60 Mbps) or 40 Mhz (+90 Mbps). Then you can try 5 Ghz with 20, 40, 80 Mhz channel width (+ 250-600 Mbps).

On Android you can use this app to help identify neighboring networks: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

In Windows, Nirsoft has various software with more or less info: http://www.nirsoft.net/network_tools.html

You can use WinMTR to measure latency to websites (google.com) or IP: https://github.com/White-Tiger/WinMTR/releases

Is their wifi on a crowded channel? You can check using a WiFi scanner app like this one:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

What was your issue with using a mobile app? This android app has worked pretty well for me:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Its free and open source.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

WiFi Analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Sorry you're having issues but it doesn't seem to be the service that is the problem. There would be many more people complaining, myself included. I use Hulu on a few different devices and smart TVs of suffering ages and sepcsall with no issues. WiFi issues can seem simple on the surface. Just because one service on your Roku Express seems to work OK, doesn't mean that your WiFi is set up optimally for streaming. Different services use different techniques for compression that don't necessarily always work better or worse than other methods.

Also, the Hulu app is not universal (or any other services apps), there are multiple builds for a variety of devices, and not all devices are created equal. I've used Hulu on devices I hated the app and performance on, and my favorite is the Samsung TV Hulu app. I have had issues on an older Series 6 UHD display, but it was also WiFi related as it was upstairs. A few changes to my setup did resolve all issues and it's been flawless for months.

Here are some things to check. (Sorry if the formatting below turns out bad.) - Are you using your own modem and router or are you renting equipment your provider? - Perform a speed check using your phone near your router, and then near your Roku Express. (e.g. speedtest.net) What are the results? - Is your WiFi router using 2.4GHz or 5 GHz bands, or both? - 2.4 GHz provides a slower bandwidth while typically better signal strength, 5GHz will degrade more easily through walls, but provides much faster bandwidth if your router and modem can provide it. - If the router provides both, how many devices do you have on each band? Try switching your Roku Express from one band to the other if it supports it. (I'm not familiar with Roku specs so you'll have to check.). Routers often don't well support too many devices on - Try checking the WiFi channel congestion in your home. Try a WiFi analyzer app to view this. I can recommend apps for Android or Windows which I've used for years. -- https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer -- https://www.acrylicwifi.com/en/wlan-wifi-wireless-network-software-tools/wlan-scanner-acrylic-wifi-free/ - If your WiFi SSID is on the same channel as many others in your area, you should check to see if you can change the channel in the router management to one that is less congested. - Can you improve the behavior if you move your WiFi router or Roku Express closer together? - Can you connect your Roku Express via a LAN cable? - Are there any software updates available for the Roku Express? - Have you checked with Roku Support regarding this issue? Some builds of apps are very specific to the individual device and it could be an issue specific to your device.

That might have a lot to do with this if the 2.4ghz channels are very crowded near you.

Check with this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

In theory yes, have a look at the channels maybe there is interference between the powerline AP and your router.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Try something like this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

If you have iPhone, there may be something similar.

Edit: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Use a too like that in your phone to see what wifi is in use in your area. What kind of Internet service do you have?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

>some! I switched to 5GHz and the stutters are gone! Thanks so much :)

Even better, log into your router and change the channel that 2.4 ghz is on. If you have an Android Phone, get this and check that you aren't overlapping both the 2.4 and 5 ghz with any one else too ---> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_AU

Per advice I got in r/techsupport I installed a wifi analyzer app on my phone. I went with the one from VREM. Both of my hotspots were set previously set on "auto" for channel selection. What I found was that all the channels on the 2.4 GHz band are really crowded all the time at my home. The best channel was 11 and that was not good. I set the Franklin R910 to ch. 11 and that seems as if it might be more reliable.

However, the Franklin R910 is dual-band mobile wifi hotspot so I decided to check the 5 GHz band and that is barely used. I then set the Franklin R910 to 5 GHz and found that my connection speed on my phone was much better +500 Mbps vs. 130 - 144 Mbps on 2.4 GHz. I'm thinking of buying a dual-band wifi card for my PC. I'm hopeful that will solve the problem.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

This app lets you do a WiFi site survey and see what channels are in use nearby (and more importantly which ones are empty!)

I'm sure there are loads of similar apps but that's one I was recommended and it works well.

Don't sign into any account while using Fing?

There's also the FOSS Wifi Analyzer: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Also on F-Droid: https://f-droid.org/en/packages/com.vrem.wifianalyzer/

Person no1 downloads the file.

Then copy that onto 2 USB-drives and give it to its friends.

These friends copy this USB-drive and then share it forward.

To accelerate things each friend who copy the file can then on their own copy it to another USB and share it forward.

So you get a 1:2:4:8:16:32 distribution. In your case after 3 rounds of USB sharing 15 people have a copy of this file.

Your wifi is only saturated for the first person downloading the large file and the rest of the time the spreading is done through USB.

If the above doesnt sound like fun to you and you dont want to use wired connection (for whatever reason) then your only option left is to start segment the wifi network and perhaps statically force clients to various AP's.

Let say you for whatever reason got issues with 10 people in this room. Then get another 2 APs so (assuming 2.4GHz) AP1 use channel1, AP2 channel 6, AP3 channel11.

Then force first 3 users (preferly those sitting closest to this AP) to AP1, next 3 into AP2 and the last 4 into AP3.

Another variant or combo of above is to switch into 5GHz and do similar in case your shitty performance is due to already existing disturbance in the air (by using 5GHz you today have far less transmitters per channel disturbing your transmission). But doing a site survey (even an easy one with your phone with like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer) should be an easy task to perform.

Other method could be to simply replace your cisco wifi with ap's from ubiquiti or similar. There can also be shitty antennas in your apple gear so no matter how you deal with the infrastructure end the clients will still have shitty downloadspeeds.

Another thing is how shitty are your download speeds really?

Any difference if you while the copy is going on try to also copy with a wired client. Could be that the clients harddrives are shitty or the server trying to feed 10 concurrent clients for whatever reason doesnt have the performance to do so (everything from its harddrives to its bandwidth to the network etc).

Per your good advice I installed a wifi analyzer app on my phone. I went with the one from VREM. Both of my hotspots were set previously set on "auto" for channel selection. Any way, what I found was that all the channels on the 2.4 GHz band are really crowded all the time at my home. The best channel was 11 and that was not good. I set the Franklin R910 to ch. 11 and that seems as if it might be more reliable.

However, the Franklin R910 is dual-band mobile wifi hotspot so I decided to check the 5 GHz band and that is barely used. I then set the Franklin R910 to 5 GHz and found that my connection speed on my phone was much better +500 Mbps vs. 130 - 144 Mbps on 2.4 GHz. I'm thinking of buying a dual-band wifi card for my PC. I'm hopeful that will solve the problem.

On the side or back of your modem should be a web address or IP address and password to log into your modem and make some changes. Usually, the IP address is 192.168.1.254 (you enter that like a web address - like you're visiting a website in your browser). AT&T's modems don't require the password to view some stuff, but it'll prompt you for it if you go somewhere you can make changes. So take a picture of the password or write it down - it's usually not easy to try to read it off from the modem while you type it.

• You change between 2.4 and 5 Ghz wifi from your device, but only if you can see them as separate networks. By default, they're one, single network with the intention of switching automatically. For example, on your phone, you might go to your WiFi settings and see "wifi 1" and "wifi 2" and you choose which one to connect to. At the surface, you don't know whether it's 2.4 Ghz or 5 Ghz. To make it easy to identify, you should add something to the name to differentiate the two. - The next question/answer should really come before this to make more sense.

• You Change the SSIDs for your networks by logging into the modem as I described above. Be default, they're both sharing the same name/SSID. When they share the same SSID, you only see one WiFi network to choose from and whether it connects to 2.4 Ghz or 5 Ghz is up to the device and how it's programmed to prioritize one over the other. When you change the SSIDs, you can name them both the same, but add something to the name so you know which one is 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz. This way, you can choose which one to connect to yourself. So on your phone, you might go to the WiFi settings and connect to "My_WiFi_Network_5Ghz" and then you'll know you're at the 5 Ghz wifi -- assuming you named it "My_WiFi_Network_5Ghz"

• if you're paying for 50 Mbps and getting 48 down, that's reasonable. AT&T doesn't guarantee the max speed and you're pretty close to it. And technically, that speed is being sent there. The modem in your apartment is getting what you pay for. The problem is getting that speed from the modem to other devices. But keep in mind that speed is being divided up between everything else connected to it. So this means the AT&T is delivering on their end. The problem is with your WiFi. If you have your own router connected to the modem, then that could be misconfigured. If you're just using the AT&T modem that they provided you, that could be misconfigured or neighboring wireless devices and/or networks could be interfering with yours. Honestly, troubleshooting your own network problems is not easy. It took me 2 months to get mine sorted out -- but to be fair, I wasn't entirely sure what I was troubleshooting. I was having bigger problems than you were and it turned out part of my problem was a bad release of the modem's firmware.

• AT&T doesn't offer any settings for QoS that you can manage. This is all from my own router connected to the modem. And just turning off a device doesn't necessarily affect how bandwidth is distributed. QoS is flexible with how the bandwidth is distributed. Your PS4 can have as much or as little bandwidth that's available. If your PC isn't doing anything, it's using no bandwidth, therefore more is available to your PS4 - whether the PC is on or off. But if your PC is downloading a large file and your PS4 is updating a game, that's when QoS will have to work at managing who gets what.

Take a step back and tackle one thing at a time... Start by separating the wifi networks into 2. Change the SSIDs so you have 2 wifi networks. Here's a guide I found - quick glance looks right but I didn't look through it thoroughly. https://forums.att.com/t5/AT-T-Internet-Features/How-to-Change-your-Wi-Fi-Password-and-Network-Name-SSID-on-NVG/td-p/4309811

BTW, it looks like you can do some of the wifi changes from the Smart Home Manager app too.

Once you change the SSIDs to be two different networks (you can keep the names as they are and just add 24 or 5 to one or the other or both), you should be able to see both networks on your wifi devices. If something won't work on 5 Ghz, you won't see the 5 Ghz network - so don't panic. Next, you would want to connect things to the 5 Ghz network. maybe just connect 1 device to run a speed test before spending a lot of time changing everything.

Another tip: You will have to reconnect everything to wifi if you change the SSID because they won't recognize the network. So... if you want everything to move to the 5 Ghz network, then don't change it's SSID. Just add/change the 2.4 Ghz wifi SSID to something new. All your devices already connected will automatically connect to the 5 Ghz wifi because it recognizes it already. It doesn't care that 2.4 Ghz isn't there anymore. But if you have anything you want to go to the 2.4 Ghz network, you'll have to manually connect to it and probably enter the password again for the first time.

Then you might want to divide your devices up. Things that don't need/use a lot of data can go to the 2.4 Ghz network, things that do use a lot of data keep on 5 Ghz network.

The next steps would be to change wifi channels, bandwidth, and mode. By default, they're auto. Problem is, auto only changes once the modem is rebooted. They don't change otherwise. It might have chosen a good channel when it was installed or last booted, but if a neighbor added wifi, changed their channel, etc. then that channel you're on could be full of interference. And honestly, in an apartment complex, it can be difficult to find a channel that doesn't have much interference. There are tools that check for this and recommend what channel to use. I use WiFi Analyzer on my Android. There's a side menu that changes what you look at. And bandwidth can have an affect on wifi performance too. For example, default is 20 MHz, but going to 40 MHz can increase speed - but not always. And for the 2.4 Ghz network, you can change the mode. Default is "B/G/N" - which means it supports all of those wifi modes. If something in B mode connects, it can slow down the whole network. If you switch to N only, then you get the fastest possible speeds, but anything not capable of N can't connect.

Again, all of these settings are done in the Modem settings which is the 192.168.1.254 address or possible from the Smart Home Manager app.

Try

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

> Or is the concept that you cannot direct the Wyze cameras to specific channels, but only can try to minimize interference on the entire 2.4Ghz network?

This, but don't expect miracles.

There are a ton of wifi analyzer apps. Here's the one I use:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&rdid=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Open the app, let it run for 2-3 minutes, then go to menu, channel rating. Look at 1, 6, 11. The channels with the most stars are the best. Change your router's setup to use that channel, then power cycle the Wyze devices.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer try something like this and see if the "*****" network you're trying to connect to even shows on the list. This how mine shows https://imgur.com/a/ZUKXT2M for 2 public and 1 hidden.

This is the one you want (I use it weekly): https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

It's open source for one and the one that guy linked wants to enable location (as per reviews).

Install this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

This tells you about all of the wifi points around you. Can you find your wifi on this app?

Get this onto your smartphone and start to walk around:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

I'd rather prefer this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

I've been using it and no problem.

At first, try to connect your PC directly to your router through Ethernet, so you can understand whether it is wi-fi connection causing limitations.

If you get 100 Mbps through ethernet, then try to find out situation with usage of wi-fi channels around you. Just use app for Android or Windows. If too many routers use same channel as your router, then just change it through router's control panel. If you get speed limitation even after changing channels , then you might consider buying router with 5Ghz wi-fi, or stick with ethernet connection.

If there are speed limitations even with ethernet cable, then try to change your DNS servers (best ones are Google's 8.8.8.8 or Cloudfare's 1.1.1.1) . For example, I get ping and speed boost using Google's Public DNS instead of ISP's default DNS. If changing DNS does not help, then call ISP's support.

Do the one from recovery that wipes data (factory reset) and do not restore a backup if you are. Test it clean first. Edit: also only install this. And see what it can see on both bands. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Check out this app and see what connections pop up: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

If 5ghz doesnt show up with the wifi analyzer, try doing a hard reset on your router. Turn off 2.4ghz, and on your V30 go to "Add Wi-Fi" (top right menu in wifi settings). Add the custom SSID directly.

Turn off encryption in your router for testing purposes.

​

>Alles ohne eine GUI oder einfach verständliche Anleitungen wird schon kritisch

Raspberry Pi und fertiges Kodi Image?

> Sollte ich eventuell da nochmal versuch das 5,0GHz Netz irgendwie zu finden bzw den Stick neu aufsetzen und drauf hoffen dass der das Netz dann diesmal findet?

Da nimmste mal dein Handy und schaust mit WifiAnalyzer oder deinen Laptop mit InSSIDer was da noch so ankommt. Der FireTV Stick ist jetzt nicht der beste Empfänger. Weitere Empfehlung is noch, den Stick am Netzteil und nicht am USB Port des TVs laufen zu lassen. Das läuft performanter.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_US if you have an Android device.

I'm using this open source version.

Does the repeater's network have a name (SSID) that's different from the main router's network? If they're the same, you were probably still connected to the repeater when you went upstairs.

If you have an Android phone, you can use WiFi Analyzer or a similar app to check out the signal strength of different networks/frequencies, which might give you a better idea what's happening and/or help you choose a better location for the repeater and the main router.

Since you're on Wi-Fi, you can check the signal space using WiFiAnalyzer (Android)..

After firing up WiFiAnalyzer, it should detect the best channels you can set your Router to. As well as provide a graph of the Wi-Fi activity around your area.

It's possible that your neighbors have installed some new Wi-Fi that causes more activity on the channel recently. Though you should really consider getting a Wired Network installed. Or even a set of Powerline Adapters.

Is this a combination modem/router supplied by Shaw? Do you pay a rental fee each month?

You might be better served by buying yourself a DOCSIS 3 modem of your own (I am assuming Shaw is a cable provider? DOCSIS 3 is a cable modem standard) and a good gigabit wired / AC 5 GHz router.

In the meantime, if you have a PC on Windows, hold the Windows key and push R, type "cmd" and hit enter. In the command prompt that opens, type "ipconfig /all" - find your "Default Gateway" which should be 192.168.something or something similar. Type that address into your internet browser, and log in to your router's setup page.

If you have an Android phone, you can use this application to go to a "Channel Rating" screen and then pick a channel for your router with a green rating. You do that on the router setup page that you pulled up earlier. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

All of this is assuming that your reason for slow speeds is Wi-Fi congestion, ie. too many different access points in close proximity, you said you live in a city.

It might also just be a really shitty router. Never heard of Hitron.

You are likely not going to get those speeds over wifi due to congestion and hardware limitations. Check out this android program to scan for the best 2.4 and 5 GHz channels. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en_US

Plug you computer into the modem directly over cat5/6 and see your speeds. You will likely get what is advertised. I would bet the problem is the wifi network.

>every time I boot I always have to go into GRUB first to add "nouveau.modeset=0" otherwise it just hangs on the splash screen when booting.

That is probably because you have a proprietary graphics driver installed. Nouveau is the open source NVidia graphics driver. It is built into the kernel and can't be removed, but conflicts with the proprietary driver like nvidia-XXX. So instead you disable the nouveau kernel module from being loaded by "blacklisting" it. This boot argument is a hackish way to do that. Instead, you should ensure that nouveau is properly blacklisted in a /etc/modprobe.d file. This should have been done automatically by the proprietary driver packages or the NVidia installer script. It likely isn't affecting your Wifi.

>frequent disconnections, usually in the 2-5 minute range.

While you probably have some wifi driver issue, you should rule out the easily checked common problems that have this same effect. Install something like Wifi Analyzer on your smart phone, and ensure your Wifi router isn't using a channel that is saturated by other Wifi routers. When this happens, frequently the Wifi works for a short period of time after disconnecting and reconnecting, or resetting the Wifi router power, then stops working again or disconnects.

> changing wireless channels.

WiFiAnalyzer (open-source) android app is good for picking the best channel.

A better router is almost certainly the answer. Distance is important, but the stuff in between you and the router is important too. Also, it looks like that one is dual band, so using the 2.4GHz network instead of the 5GHz network might help too. This Android WiFi Analyzer app might be helpful in troubleshooting, as it'll allow you to easily view the real signal strength instead of abstract and mostly-useless 'bars' in different locations, and help to identify congested channels so that you can avoid them.

Here's an Android one...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Here's one for your suface :D

https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/store/p/wifi-analyzer/9nblggh33n0n

Edit:

Look at the channel graphs to see where your network lies. Keep in mind that this can change all throughout your residence.

If your wifi network's picture isn't the most powerful on the channel (ex: isn't the highest) you can try changing the channel on the wifi device/router until it is for most places in your residence.

If you have a ISP or cable company issued 'router' you can call them for guidance on changing the channel

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

WiFi Analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

What kind of router/wireless network? Signal strength has a massive impact on throughput, and bars are pretty arbitrary, they generally aren't useful. An app like this that can show you a raw number in dBm or dBi is far more useful in gauging signal strength, and could also help identify congested channels.

Far too many variables to provide a definite answer to this question. Your best bet is to take a walk around the building with an app like this and see how your network holds up, but you won't know for sure how any given device is going to perform until you've got it installed and can test it.

If he's right under you, just make the hole where your cable comes in a little bigger and drop him an ethernet cable, let him deal with positioning the cable/his router in his apartment. Pull it up before you move out, your landlord won't notice.

One more thing before you buy a new router, have you ever downloaded an app like WiFi Analyzer and checked how many routers are on each channel?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Get an app that scans all the available frequencies and shows you how it's populated.

If you're an android user, here's a good Wi-Fi analyzer:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

 

EDIT - obviously pick the channel that has the least signals... And if your equipment can do 5ghz it'll be less crowded.

It's called WiFiAnalyzer.

If that's the one you have then I can't explain the difference..

That's a lot of networks. Grab a wifi analyser on your phone and have a look at what channels are being used, as your current might be overpopulated.

Then, on your router, change the network to run on the least populated channel and see if that helps.

I've also found that often older routers start to have more issues with wifi. Had a Netgear that worked perfectly, but needed restarting every few hours for the wifi to work properly, otherwise everything was slow.

5Ghz is great when you're close and there's not many things blocking the signal (walls/etc), but it sucks at penetrating solid objects and isn't as good at range as the 2.4Ghz network will be.

Iv used this one before. It just shows how many other broadcast from routers. I had everyone on my block switch to comcast one year and they all populated channel 11 on the wifi block thus jamming me out making me switch channel.

I get around 50% (~-70 dBm) signal strength on 5 GHz, probably 30-40 feet from the AP through a floor and a couple of rooms. I have a nice AP though: https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RTAC68U/

I get very slightly more signal strength from my phone (Nexus 6) but it's real close.

Try using this to check your signal strength and maybe see if there are less congested channels to try: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en

I find the upper 5 GHz channels (149-165) work better for me than the lower (36-48), at least with my equipment.

If it's an AC capable AP make sure beamforming is turned on if it has that feature.

I used this app first to find the least crowded channels for 5ghz and 2.4ghz https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer it tells you how many routers are using each channel so either find an empty one or one with the least routers.

Then I went into superhub settings to set the channels https://i.imgur.com/iuWcbM2.png. I also set the channel width to be as wide as possible since it increases signal supposedly, but there's a chance that it can have interference with other networks so it's something to mess around with to get decent speeds. I think ideally you want a channel as far from other networks in the area as possible. Like if other routers are using 30 something then choose 50 or 60 something.

Then I separated both the 2.4ghz and 5ghz network names. If they're both named the same then the device or router (not sure) will auto pick the "best" one. But sometimes it was picking 2.4ghz for my phone and even though it had better signal it had lower speed overall.

And also, set everything that you don't care about speed on to 2.4ghz. Put everything you want speed on to 5ghz. Or at least divide it up as evenly as possible to stop it getting congested.

I did this and now everything that can handle it is able to max out the connection. I don't know if it all works for everyone but I know 100% that choosing the right channel matters, whatever algorithm the router uses to automatically choose a channel is bad.

> While the router might not be the best, my Brother's 5 year old PCI wireless card connects flawlessly, so I'm inclined to believe its an adapter issue. That said, I could be wrong

you realize you should not translate how well things work. we would rather know about the model and manufacturer of the router itself. The card is 2.4 Ghz only. If you live in an apartment. 2.4 Ghz band might be noisy

use this app on your android device to check

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en

> TL-WN881ND

I think have that card on my desktop. I cannot check anymore since I gave it away.

2.4 Ghz channel and width?

5.0 Ghz channel and width?

If on Android, use this tool to gather information. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en

Roku devices can not be used on 5.0 Ghz DFS channels.

> I suspect because of interference from other networks, but who knows

there are apps that measure interference?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

I'm not sure about ios, but on android there's this app that will show you signal strength in dBm:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

if you measure your signal strength next to your router, and then in your room, you'll be able to tell if the signal strength drop is significant.

if you're not loosing too much signal through the wall, try putting grounded 15mm mesh on your window to block out interference (just kidding, try different channels maybe?)

It certainly can. If they are all on one AP then they are all using the same channel (only 3 real wifi channels in 2.4 GHz: 1, 6, and 11) so that one AP won't take the whole spectrum, but if it's 40 MHz that will take up 2 or so channels worth of bandwidth, and if you have neighbors using the other wifi channels then yeah it could get bad. BT and Wifi use the same frequencies, but BT hops from frequency to frequency very quickly, which is why you'll see hitches when it jumps to a crowded channel.

It's a tough balance, I'd suggest using a wifi analyzer (I'm partial to this one: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en). See what wifi channels are in use near you and how strong the signals are. Set your wifi to 20 MHz and the clearest channel (and consider doing 5 GHz wifi for whatever devices support it).

40 Mhz vs 20 MHz is also an interesting trade off, 20 MHz generally gets you better range, but 40 MHz can get higher link speed at shorter range. Generally speaking in residential areas, there is too much interference for 40 MHz channels to work properly anyway. (and frankly it's bad wifi manners if you have neighbors, you are taking up a lot of the frequency space with 40 MHz and impacting other networks performance). Functionally for most clients that means 150 Mbps link speed for 20 MHz and 300 Mbps link speed for 40 MHz, but the link speeds are not a good indicator of actual real world performance. Good technical explanation here: http://www.connect802.com/80211n_channels.htm

Use wifi analyzer to perform a wireless site survey. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

Were these works carried out in the common areas?

Also I'm struggling to connect the two, every "intelligent" lighting system that I have seen uses passive infrared, which would not interfere with Wifi. For something to create a dead zone from 2.4GHz to 5GHz is really impressive.

If you have an android phone I'd install https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en and see what signals you can see/find.

> Were these works carried out in the common areas?

Yes.

> Also I'm struggling to connect the two, every "intelligent" lighting system that I have seen uses passive infrared, which would not interfere with Wifi. For something to create a dead zone from 2.4GHz to 5GHz is really impressive.

I know, I've never ever heard of something like this. I guess it is possible that it's actually something else, but the timing of this issue and the location of the dead zone makes me suspect the lighting. The dead spot is a ~3 metre radius around the wall that I have with the common area. I'm half-seriously contemplating lining that wall with silver foil.

> If you have an android phone I'd install https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en and see what signals you can see/find.

I don't currently have access to an Android phone, so I installed NetSpot on my laptop and when I stand in the dead zone, it detects about 20 wireless access points and they all appear and disappear in tandem about once every 30 seconds.

I assume if this lighting system uses radar that has something to do with it's transmission and listening cycles.

A good guide for those new to the phone :Samsung Galaxy S7 Tips and Tricks

The best Wifi Analyzer is the one from VREM

My favourite barcode scanner / QR reader is the one from ZXing

Get Disconnect Pro from the Galaxy Apps app store. It will filter out a lot of trackers and many ads. Currently free - but likely only for short while so get it while you can.

Firefox for Android is the only Android browser that supports extensions/addons.
Install Ublock Origin to have the same great ad blocking that the desktop version does.
If you need to save data then I recommend the SkyZIP addon which will compress web pages before sending them to you.

Google Panel lets you answer surveys for Google Play store credit. Unlike most other survey apps , these surveys are super short and very quick to do and pay quite decently. It's usually something like answer 3 question and earn $1.
You can then buy payware apps for the credit you earn.
The only real downside is that there are seldom any new surveys.

Amazon Underground is Amazons new app store and purchase app. To attract users Amazon offers a lot of app and games you normally have to pay for or that contain in-app purchase for free. They call this "actually free". You can search for "actually free" to find them - there is quite a lot. For example you can get Star Wars - Knights of the Old Republic if you ever fancied playing that on your phone (I prefer the PC version)

Speedtest.net has an app for IOS & Android. Useful when you want to quickly check the speed of your Internet connection. Contains ads but Disconnect Pro filters them out.

You can change the keyboard on Android phones - Populars ones are Swype, GBoard, Swiftkey and Fleksy. I use Swiftkey myself.

Which band are you connected to, 2.4Ghz or 2.5Ghz? Is it possible you're connected to 2.4Ghz and there is congestion in your location?

See /r/HomeNetworking to troubleshoot your WiFi network. Use the open source WiFiAnalyzer app to analyze WiFi.

First, plug your computer directly into the modem or router and check your wired speeds vs your wireless speeds. That is one major variable to figure out first.

Get a router that supports the 5GHz spectrum which is not as crowded and signals do not propagate as far. There are also apps on you cell phone that get let you see what channel is not as crowded.

Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer&hl=en

or if you run Linux: https://sourceforge.net/projects/linssid/

If you only have a 2.4GHz router, try a different channel. Generally channels 1, 6, and 11 are the most popular and will have more interference and thus slower speeds.

I used that app for years, but was recently pointed to WifiAnalyzer. It's without advertisements. I think i don't have to say why that is better.

Open source alternative. WiFiAnalyzer

7Mbps per concurrent HD stream is recommended. Remember you can always upgrade after the fact.

Is TWC/Spectrum available in your area? If so then I would highly recommend considering EarthLink.

The biggest issue your household will need to be concerned about is bandwidth caps. Try to avoid any sort of bandwidth cap if possible so you all don't have any anxiety as to how much monthly bandwidth you're using. Streaming video will eat through this cap quickly.

Consider a dual-band router if you have solid WiFi connections but still experience buffering/transfer issues on devices. You can use like the open-source WiFiAnalyzer for Android to help troubleshoot.

I usually recommend using this app.

> Edit: Basically, if you're not getting good signal with 2.4Ghz, most likely 5Ghz isn't going to be any better for you.

Yeah, at that point you'd be better off trying to move your router and/or using an app like this one to double check that your neighbours aren't crapping up the radiowaves on the same channel as you.