I lost an hour of my life one night reading the reviews on a Audioquest 5 meter HDMI Cable for $2700.00 . There is pure comedy genius there. The funniest reviews might be the people that believe in it.
To be fair they make working converting cables, I own this one. VGA to HDMI Cable
Right!? What was weird was there was extra tape on the box. It's like someone opened it up, bent the crap out of it, then taped it back up into the box. Here's a comparison though of boxes. On the left is the box the 1st keyboard came in (but it was the wrong model so I have to send that one back too). Box on the right is the one that holds the damaged keyboard.
It was $99
EDIT: to the people who downvoted me here is the kvm
https://i.imgur.com/y7Df92U.jpg
Here it is on Amazon
We both work in the same office
> Can't move to a VM because it uses proprietary PCI interface cards, which also don't have updated drivers.
Pass-through + https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-Adapter-Card-PEX1PCI1/dp/B0024CV3SA
Perhaps that could work? In any case, you'd still have to run the old OS version, but at least you would have slightly easier access to newer hardware (not counting the PCI card, obviously).
How are you in IT and not paranoid?
Scrubbed my social media accounts
Created a Twitter (mostly to keep up with politics) using a VOIP # with no ties to my name. This was actually quite difficult.
NordVPN all the things
Brave / Dissenter + DDG for most everything
Tor for... Things
Protonmail for email
Signal for encrypted calls/texts
Wire for anonymous & encrypted group chats
Separate laptop on my hotspot network with chrome for Gmail/bill paying.
With the language coming out of the U.S Government.. I'm encrypting anything and everything. Removing as much data (useful data that is) from big tech.
I have to work with computers filled like this all the time. I use patchcleaner from http://www.homedev.com.au/free/patchcleaner . You may also want to look at the winsxs folder. I launch cleanmgr from an admin command prompt to clean that one.
Might not be all that bad of a mod...
Allignment would be hard, you'd have to cannabalize an iPhone headphones adapter and find the right spot to solder the connection to for audio output.
Fuck it, buying a Bluetooth connection board and soldering it into place would be more logical and then the phone could charge while playing.
Based on the looks of the cable placement it looks like an iPhone 4s, with the amount of corrosion on there, that phone may be a goner. You need to get some deoxyit I believe is what it's called.
You will need a new battery and possibly a new screen as well based on how that LCD flex cable is looking.
I recommend spraying the whole board down with this deoxyit and using a toothbrush to scrap off the corrosion. It's not a guarantee but it's probably the most you could do at this point.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GR7QF63/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I mean I still ordered it since it had decent reviews lol.
At the most https://www.amazon.com/Huion-Graphics-Pressure-Sensitivity-H610PRONEW/dp/B00TGOHZR2/ref=sr_1_41?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1529335588&sr=1-41&keywords=huion looks like $77
Could just be this, which is sub $60 as well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP0Y1UI/ref=psdc_16034531_t4_B00TGOHZR2
Their "top of the line" tablets are all under $150. I've tried a couple of them... Unfortunately I still went back to Wacom. There is a vast difference in the feel, especially the tip (yes that's what I said, and I'm a woman, so that's what she said) while drawing. The pressure curve tends to be wildly unpredictable.
An easy way to remount surface stuff is to use a butane soldering iron. Not for the heat of the tip, but for the exhaust heat emitting from the sides of the combustion chamber. Use a small amount of flux/solder paste*, and slowly swipe back and forth above the part until it reflows and seats. It works very well, and it quite easy with just a bit of practice.
(* Helpful tip for those who are new to soldering: save yourself pain and make sure to use a leaded one. All of the RoHS lead-free solders are crap compared to 60/40's wettability, flexibility, durability, and low melting point.)
Y'all need to know how to control your PC's better. I've had windows 10 since it came out and litterally the only problem I ever had was an unsupported driver on my 7 year old laptop. My new PC has never had a problem. Never interrupts me, never restarts on it's own, never anything.
Heres a great comprehensive guide by /u/scorthyn to make it less annoying and faster.
And this is a fantastic utility for anyone that wants control over their data and control updates and a few other things.
I realize that one shouldn't have to do any of this, but it solves almost every problem I ever see people having. Takes like 20 minutes.
The batteries can't run for 20 years, the standard I think it was like 7 years, and that was (and is) with the hourly chime and alarm deactivated, and anyway, the display would be dimmer over time, and in the picture the numbers are pretty dark.
So... yes, a lie.
BTW, I recorded the alarm and the hourly chime some time ago, if anyone wants it. I have it set in my android with an app since I recorded it.
http://www.freesound.org/people/Koyber/packs/9916/
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.caynax.hourlychime
Fiber is pretty cheap and decently durable. This is orange so probably OM1, $13 for 5 meters.
I have a couple 10gb sfp+ cards and was looking in to running cat6e or fiber.
The fiber 10gb sfp+ modules ($10-20) are much cheaper than ones that use ethernet ($50-80) and I was able to get 10 m of OM3 (LC/LC) for $15.
For Android:
Play store link: Relay for reddit
It looks like it's coiled about the same as the end of a box of cat5e.
-2/10 would not worry about it.
There's also this whole thing as a decent example: http://superuser.com/questions/475934/can-a-huge-coiled-lan-cable-have-some-trouble-for-transmitting-a-signal
This is why I always check first and jellybean the key before a reinstall if at all possible.
I really miss the original XP stickers. They were indestructable. I'm pretty sure they went to this paper crap because people were able to lift the keys off the case intact..
This is the one my computer shop has been combating heavily the past few days. http://www.tech4mommies.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/FBI-MoneyPak-Ransomware1.jpg This virus in particular is quite a nasty piece, seeing as it uses a java script attack to get in pretty much on any website with a malicious advertisement. I think the last 7-8 machines in the past 2-3 days have all come in with this same virus, but thankfully it's a rather easy clean to get it mopped up. Malwarebytes or a new tool called EMSIsoft recommened by the guys behind Combofix over at BleepingComputers. http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/virus-removal/remove-fbi-monkeypak-ransomware
This appears to be the same cabinet. It just has a crappy description from Amazon.
90lbs total, so maybe 70lbs without the back.
STORY : This computer is delivered to the place I work by an old man who can't even carry this piece of **** to the counter. This weights around 120 lbs.
The old man doesn't have a clue what's wrong with the computer, he leaves us a phone number to call to get information.
Apparently, the issue is that the computer doesn't detect any hard drives anymore (so well explained by the customer that doesn't understand how complex this type of machine is at all).
I've been memtesting this bitch for 2 days now trying to figure WTF is going on because with all the dimms filled in it doesn't work but with the upper part it works (I guess the bottom dims are a channel). With the bottom dimms only filled in or with all filled in, it gets stuck with post code 67.
Post code 67 is apparently : CPU DXE initialization (CPU module specific)
Now, only memtesting this ridiculous amount of memory took 2 days cause, y'know, ECC.
Plot twist : I'm 18 with two years of comp tech in the back, I've seen a lot of shit (even for a little 2 years) but man this is hell of a pain in the ass. Especially since before booting whenever you change the dimms it takes 10 minutes to self test (from what I've read).
EDIT: I believe the old man who delivered the computer was probably just a mailman. He did not own the computer.
I use this little beauty Metro Vac 220 - 240 V "DataVac" Electric Duster
If you have a lot of PC's / lots of electronics or just stuff, and are lazy this thing cleans them out a treat, I use it on everything like a man possessed lol, i was shocked at the filth that came out from behind my radiators in the house!
So, to be fair, this is in a closet and fastened to a high shelf just below the equipment. It' really never in danger of accidental actuation, but it's a good thing to consider. Otherwise, these are good for accidental protection and if I wanted to make real project out of it I could probably hook up a microcontroller to turn on a warning light locally plus somewhere else in the house which was obvious. But, lucklily, my home crew is the reliable sort.
C-Slide 1.0 Sliding Webcam Cover, Black, Durable Plastic, No Scratch Design, Fits Computers, Laptops, Macs, Chromebooks, Video Game Consoles, More 1.5" x 0.5", 1mm Thick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ639VG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aqRFBb49QC9Q6
If you want to get fancy
I think American Science and Surplus would blow MacGyver's mind.
You want brass tubing? Got it.
You want beakers? Got it.
You want wires and motors? Got it.
Seriously, check this stuff out. http://www.sciplus.com/
Logitech makes a washable keyboard, I use one because I'm terrible and keep eating at my desk. You can submerge it in warm water and wash it down with a soft brush or a cloth. It includes a little brush clipped on the back to get under the keys. It isn't the nicest experience to type on but it's way better than one of those silicone keyboards. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Washable-Wired-Keyboard-K310/dp/B008D1JRIO
Haha. 3tb! At least you can get them replaced from Seagate!
There was a report last week that came out that said the 3tb seagate was the single most failed drive.
EDIT: Added article!
Linksys was acquired by Belkin from Cisco almost two years ago. They claim to be independent but I'd still stick with ASUS.
We're not supposed to, right? You're just making a joke, right?
http://lifehacker.com/windows-does-defragment-ssds-but-its-okay-1666753409
http://www.ghacks.net/2015/01/20/windows-ssds-and-defragmentation-the-definitive-answer/
I don't mean a washable cover. I mean an actual washable keyboard, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sungwoo-Foldable-Silicone-Keyboard-Waterproof/dp/B0179N39KS
They are still for sale, at least the wrt54g is
I'd take some thermomelt plastic beads (they melt at like 170f), mash it into the dongle and viola, now it's fixed in a basically permanent way.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermoplastic-Beads-Pellets-Mold-Able-Polymorph/dp/B08HFC8YT3
Or you can get a portable power bank and stash it where your coworkers can't get to it. Then take it home to charge it when it runs low.
>I also think the HDD will die much faster since they are not designed to operate at an angle, certainty not 90 degrees.
http://www.howtogeek.com/128397/does-hard-drive-orientation-affect-its-lifespan/ > The bottom line: as long as the drive stays safely mounted in the case and properly cooled there is little concern for excessive wear.
Edit: The original superuser question:
it will speed up the small file transfers where the 8.3 overhead chokes the transfer.
Windows Vista, Windows Server 2008, Windows 7, Windows Server 2008 R2, Windows 8 and Windows Server 2012
To disable the 8.3 name creation on all NTFS partitions, type fsutil.exe behavior set disable8dot3 1 at an elevated command prompt, and then press ENTER.
This operation takes effect immediately (no reboot required).
Notes: When a volume is not specified the operation updates the registry value: 0 - Enable 8dot3 name creation on all volumes on the system 1 - Disable 8dot3 name creation on all volumes on the system 2 - Set 8dot3 name creation on a per volume basis 3 - Disable 8dot3 name creation on all volumes except the system volume When a volume is specified the operation updates the individual volume's on disk flag. This operation is only meaningful if the registry value is set to 2. 0 - Enable 8dot3 name creation on this volume 1 - Disable 8dot3 name creation on this volume
For more information on FSUTIL.EXE 8dot3name, visit the following TechNet article:
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/ff621566.aspx For more information on the registry setting to disable 8.3 names, visit the following TechNet article:
The top hits when searching for "google servers direct current" are this and this. It seems Google hasn't switched entirely to DC but Facebook has
There is indeed plenty of benefits to using DC over AC. Fewer converters all around, less heat and thus less cooling, cheaper transport via HVDC and so forth. But the cost of converting the entire grid to DC would be astronomical. And there would possibly also be an outcry from consumers and companies making appliances because they suddenly can't use or sell their appliances.
If you do it gradually it might be possible in the long run. Start with offering personal DC converters for each household or something like that and then move to the next part of the grid once that's fairly widespread.
While there is a lot of battery, the logic board in the Air does go across the entire machine: http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/MacBook-Air-11-Inch-Late-2010-Teardown/3745/1#.T9eGsrVYssc
I'm surprised the board wasn't damaged because the whole right side of the machine is bent pretty good. I understand bent corners (see them a lot from people dropping them), but the whole machine has a good kink in it. Impressive.
Looks exactly like this cable, it supposedly works on some very specific devices.
Ryzen 6... O_o? Either you mean 7 or 5, though not sure which o:
I can tell you for my use-case, it's an improvement. Since it's an NVMe slot and not a SATA III slot, it does benefit from higher speeds. This is the one I went with. for $40 while it's not really that big, I don't need space on that laptop, just speed. Additionally, I filled in the HDD/SSD slot with an older 180GB SSD that I've been carting around for probably longer than anyone here would recommend. But now it's no longer being used as a boot drive.
The performance has been noticeable, though really in just the minor things. Load time went from about 10 seconds down to about 5~6 from a cold boot and sleep mode. I mean, it's really damn fast now.
But also, for now, I still only have 8gb RAM, so having the faster module for the page file is noticeable too now as well. It's almost like having extra RAM with how fast it is, given that most applications aren't going to be able to function at the speed of the RAM's read/write anyway. And one of my uses is needing to have dozens and dozens of tabs open at once.
So I mean, yea, for most use-cases, it's not going to be a big deal. For specifics uses though, it's a decent upgrade. Like with everything computer related, I always recommend a heavy amount of thought and research into buying things. At least... being as broke as me, I've gotta make purchasing decisions based on nearly the absolute best use of money, lol.
You can buy 3.5mm plugs for probably cheaper than this
Gets in your lungs and then solidifies and causes silicosis which causes respiratory issues and possible death. It is not treatable. It can show up on an x-ray if it's bad enough.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis
There is an attitude in the industry that wet cutting eliminates the dust and therefore doesn't need a mask but I don't agree with this.
All the fine mist coming off a wet saw still has some amount of dust in it which is why your clothes end up stiff after cutting for a while so I still wear at least something like this to avoid breathing in that mist.
I would also suggest wearing one while you're first mixing thinset or grout and dumping the bag but you're probably fine to take if off once you actually start spreading.
Yeah that's literally what it's for. It's just copper braid you put it on the solder, put your heat on the other side and it sucks it into the wick once it's liquid
I suppose I should clarify. BRAND NEW they go for hundreds:
Logitech Trackman Wheel Optical (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005NIMJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BLdcDbMH67RY5
Used they're ~$50 depending on wear.
The default Lenovo charger is bad enough for mixing up— but then my mother got a mini Lenovo yoga with this lovely design. And to my knowledge, no, it is not compatible with any other usb connections.
There's only a finite amount of spectrum on 2.4GHz. In the US, there are 11 available channels. However, the Wi-Fi signal is wider than the width of a channel, so the most you can fit in the available spectrum is 3 signals, side by side, on channels 1, 6, and 11. In a fully-managed environment like a corporate or campus network, access points will be set up so that adjacent APs are on different channels, and they'll be sited to provide the best coverage given the layout of the building, without interfering with each other.
In an unmanaged area like an apartment, on the other hand, people just set up their access points willy-nilly, broadcasting at needlessly high power levels, and on whatever channel they please. Some routers even have an automatic channel selection function - sounds great in theory, until you realize that those algorithms don't limit themselves to 1, 6, and 11, and so those routers end up causing interference to two other networks, instead of just one. Rogue access points in a managed network have the same effect - they're usually crappy home-grade routers, and have definitely not been accounted for by the network admin, so they end up causing more problems than they solve.
You can see this in action for yourself, if you have an Android phone. Install Wi-Fi Analyzer and open it - it'll show you all of the networks nearby, and which channel they're on. If you do that in your apartment, you'll notice that access points are scattered all up and down the spectrum. If you try it at a large business or a college campus - anywhere big enough to have an IT person managing their network - you'll notice that APs are nicely divided up into 1, 6, and 11, and there aren't nearly as many dead spots in coverage as you get in your apartment.
TL;DR: It's the difference between a well-moderated panel discussion and a 50-way shouting match.
There are better ways at preventing this than disabling Windows Update, disabling Windows Update is just a plain bad idea.
How to disable auto-restarting, the method works for Windows 7 too.
I have about 400 velcro zip ties in my bag that I use instead of normal zip ties. The guy after always appreciates it.
https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6
I remember i had the same off-white microsoft optical mouse for years until the right click started to not work
Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B7HB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O8JhDbP3JDQQ3
Well I guess it wasn't off-white when it was new...
passmark is bullshit.
Although frankly, newer i3s even beat it there http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i3-6100+%40+3.70GHz
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core2+Quad+Q9650+%40+3.00GHz
>Stopping a process and its subprocesses by right-clicking it and then choosing End Process Tree
I'll give it a shot.
In a capacitor rapidly changing voltage passes through easily while DC is blocked. In real capacitors a small amount of DC will pass through, this is called leakage current.
Our skin protects us from DC up to a point, think of a 100kOhm resistor in parallel with the capacitor. Any DC must pass through that 100kOhms. The capacitive property of our body lets AC will pass through, bypassing that resistor.
This is a simulated circuit demonstrating the effect.
I pulled the values out of thin air, but it is roughly representative of a body. Think of the 100kOhm resistor as our skin, the 1uF capacitor as the capacitance of our body and the 1k resistor as our vulnerable internal organs.
Use the switch to go between voltage sources, both are 24V, but the top is AC oscillating at 60hz and the bottom is DC. Watch the current on the left side after the 1k resistor, that is the current going through the vital organs. When it is on DC it is just a few hundred microamps, but on AC it is peaking over 8mA.
Oh geez, this reminds me of a hospital in my town. Next time I'm there I'll have to take a screenshot. Every single one of their APs was on a different channel. Tons of adjacent-channel interference. I'm amazed it worked.
​
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01B7VTUF6/
Something like that. If you glue rods into concrete, you can only cut them, they will never come out again.
Edit: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B077YVFSKJ/ This one is good, too.
It allows for equalization of air pressure between the inside and outside of the drive. While it is not a complete pass-through of outside air into the HDD internals, there is a filter inside the hole that allows the air pressure to equalize.
If the drive were completely sealed, operating at altitudes significantly different from those the drive was manufactured and sealed at, it would cause problems and increase the likelihood of catastrophic failures.
This system works in much the same way as the Eustachian tubes that allow our ears internal pressures to equalize, preventing the explosion of our ear drums.
I'm a mechanic and I swear by this shit. And always having a box of quality nitrile gloves.
Clearly the data is corrupt. That would imply it's been powered on constantly since April 12th 1961
I got it from Costco on sale. $600 shipped
Does it get hot....not any more then my old mattress and I am in South Florida. My biggest fear was getting hot or retaining heat, but never had that issue.
Note, this just a mattress so keep your old box or buy a new one.
They do say when first opening it to let air out for 24 hours before sleeping on. I will say there was a slight...very slight smell when I would literately jam my nose in to the mattress and smell when I first got it. After the 24 hours....none.
Best part was opening this vacuum packed strapped closed mattress. I was expecting it to like spring open like something out of cartoon and flip me across the room. It did open quick but had time to figure out was going on. But it was the coolest thing to watch this "small" thing become a queen sized mattress.
I drunkenly ordered the tee with Skookum Choocher and the sweedish left-handed nut-rounder on it a while back. I've worn it once. Trying to explain why literally everything on the shirt is funny to me but means completely nothing to anyone else turned it into a shop shirt real quick. Plus I think they thought it was some kind of slur.
Still worth it.
Well, NordVPN has been iffy about logs in the past. My assumption is that, like most good VPNs, they have a general log of how data is being used. However they don't save any logs that would tie your IP to which server you use, and which websites you'd visit.
I'm sure there's an activity log showing all the activity on one server, but that would never tie you to that.
They don't really have to worry about things "Chugging up the network" because, like all VPNs, the connection is severely throttled.
​
If they allowed everyone to use up as much bandwidth as they wanted nobody would ever be able to load anything., right?
​
Anyway the important thing is that they're outside the 14 eyes. So even if they did keep logs, they wouldn't be legally pressured to hand them over to various government entities.
Yes, the US based providers do not work in Iran, I recently came back from there. I had some other US-based provider and had to refund it because it did not work. Heard about NordVPN and VPNArea because they were outside the US. After I've read some feedback, I got Nord. It seems they always add new servers and it worked for me. I think VPNArea should work too, or any other provider maybe?
Saw this article the other day.
http://www.cnet.com/news/engineering-prof-young-people-have-no-clue-how-to-fix-things/
Good to see that there are indeed people like you that do. I was given a 6 year old 32in LCD that had seen better days and had stopped turning on. took a gamble on a cheap power board and brought it back to life. it has it's quirks, but it, like yours was worth it seeing it restored to working order.
There was an enormous update a few months ago, and a lot of stuff has been added recently. As you can see, his last development post was yesterday, so yes, he still very much cares about it.
He knows when you've been good or bad..
More serious answer: It sends an email to the root user (or tries) and logs it. See this.
Is this the right thing?
USB to RS232, OIKWAN USB to Serial Adapter with FTDI Chipset,USB 2.0 to Male DB9 Serial Cable for Windows 10, 8, 7, Vista, XP, 2000, Linux and Mac OS(6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759HSLP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_5rZaGb715Q3YP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 is
We use these. Definitely worth the money for everything it does.
Also the free version is this https://github.com/chall32/LDWin
Uses LLDP on windows and will tell you switch and port.
I have one of those in our company cable bag. It is my last choice before a screwdriver but does work. You can get this one($20) from Homedepot and it works pretty good. If you can wait for delivery, this one($14) on Amazon does a nice job.
It's an Apple Magic Mouse, and if you look at the lower-right corner of the metal bit, you'll see it's bent out of shape. Seems like they threw it against the wall. I'm assuming the bit to the left of that metal bit is the glass touch-sensitive top, and I'm surprised it doesn't look more damaged (although the glass part is face-down, so it could easily be completely shattered).
> The older Diebold machines had a plasma torch vulnerability that allowed a thief to open the safe after about 30 seconds of work.
This makes me wonder if there's a fulldisclosure mailing list for physical security devices.
> when the reality is it's still there. That's how you can still recover data, granted you haven't overwritten it.
BINGO.
I took care of not editing a thing, and using the appropriate tool. Recuva didn't find the device as it wasn't mounted (corrupted). So I used "Find and mount" (LINK), and mounted the flashdrive into a virtual partition "O:". Then I used "TestDisk/PhotoRec" (LINK) to recover the files.
Amazingly, it recovered almost ALL the files I had (aprox. 3.2 GB of data). Of course I had everything backed up on my HDD, as I use the flashdrive as a portable apps device.
TL;DR: Didn't modify a file, mounted on virtual partition, recovered all data. STRONGLY recommend Photorec!
You want something like this https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Housing-Spring-Protection-Replace/dp/B01DEX5BC6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1478808607&sr=8-7&keywords=headphone+jack
A basic pair of Amazon Basics headphones that look like that model look like $15 but DIY is $5 with some elbow grease and bragging rights
I didn't say buy an overpriced one. Dont be a jackass.
Edit: there are better places to buy things than amazon and as long as the fan is of similar size, and power rating it doesn't have to be exact, fans are cheap.
Minimal UI - Icon Pack by Kxnt. I think it's a couple dollars. But apparently on sale.
It doesn't get as many updates anymore The last being Feb of 2017.
Some newer stuff may not have an Icon in it. All the mainstream apps are there I think. I'm old. But there's usually some Icon that works. Backgrounds are nice but I use the battery moon live wallpaper. It is seeming loosing some support with Nova Launcher, it used to put a square behind icons it didn't have and icon for, but that stopped like half a year ago.
But it fits my apps and it's the only icon pack I've ever found that I've liked. Had it since it came out. I haven't found anything else like it.
Yeah that's what I'm worried about. I use PureVPN. Their technical help people have no clue why it does this. They blamed it on my router even though it only happens with their vpn software. If I use any other vpn software everything is fine.
it's an officially accepted usage of the word. also, it's basically what is meant when someone says their weed is loud; it's so smelly that it might as well be screaming out, "HEY GUYS I'M MARIJUANA AND I'M IN THIS DUDES POCKET!"
FWIW, some of these tools actually do a decent job of loading small parts of a file at a time. I believe one I've used in the past was "Large Text File Viewer". Opened something like a 4GB file in a matter of maybe 5 seconds.
Never hurts to add more tools to your virtual toolbelt!
they were $4 a few days ago
https://slickdeals.net/f/10495492-gearbest-u8-smartwatch-for-3-99-free-shipping
and i love this comment:
Get it shipped from china straight to your garbage can in America. What a deal.
> Bolt something onto the back of it that gives you a more capable print server.
OpenERP (now Odoo) does this now. You hook a Raspberry Pi up to the printer and it turns it into a print server.
I genuinely don't understand why more POSes don't do something like this (or, if you're going to do serial or ethernet "dumb printers", why they aren't being driven by some back-office server that the iPad talks to or something).
I fail to see how I fucked myself by quoting the amount I did. If this was a more current MacBook (for example, my MacBook Pro, pictured left), I would have quoted a helluva lot more. The LCD is as easy as popping the plastic bezel off with a spudger and unscrewing a few screws.
I'd suggest a label tag on the cable as well.
https://amazon.com/Mr-Label-Nylon-Cable-Labels-Marker/dp/B07869W2W9/
Something like that ought to work just fine and make sure it's seen from both sides.
That's IDE/PATA. You can use this.
Not having a soldering iron didn't stop these people...
Or failing that, there's always the old twist-and-electrical-tape approach, which I'm guessing is probably a bad idea when dealing with 120VAC.
Because iphone cables are obviously due to them getting caught under the hotspot of it oh...wait. No, it's simple wear and tear.
If this was people being negligent then why was apple forced to reimburse people before due to their shitty cords fraying? Link
Because it's definitely not a common issue when you type "L shaped magsafe" and a suggestion is hey "L shaped magsafe fraying".
Thats also why many other people have the exact same thing happen about 1 year 3-5ish months into using one. And why most Apple Stores will replace them at no charge.
There once was this ludicrasly high ($1000+) priced 2ft hdmi cable at bestbuy.com... now i cant find it, or they dont carry it. This is the closest i've found.
It's a valid concern, you can't trust everything on the internet. But CNET did a positive review and hosts the file, which is an indication that there's nothing to worry about. However, if you scroll to the bottom of that page and look at the other popular uninstallers, it looks like Revo Uninstaller gets way better reviews from CNET and users.
I can't remember offhand what it's called, but I think I remember certain GNU/Linux distros coming with a 'broken screen' screen saver. There's also a BSOD screen saver for Windows (more than one, in fact, though I can't vouch for either of them as I've never used them)...
>Seriously, as a previously long time apple user, I'm horrified that it's this difficult.
When has Mac hardware ever been easy? The software, yes, but the hardware has always been proprietary and difficult, and they're not getting better.
Sure, if you are that paranoid. I'm totally aware of this.
That is the essence of a rootkit. But there are some pretty damn good anti-rootkit utilities out there. Does any malware infection always justify a drive wipe and reinstall?
I personally don't think so. Try doing that with every customer that has a malware infection that locks down their PC, while reformatting Windows each time. You'll have some annoyed customers asking you what happened to their music, pics, videos, installed programs you or they don't have the installer/key for, favorites/bookmarks, "why does my printer not work?", "Where's all my emails and contacts?", etc. Sure you can backup most of their data, but not everything is going to be the same. You can't reinstall all the apps unless they are pretty common apps. Then there's the keys for the apps that doesn't have a keyfinder.
Just like you can spend loads of time removing some really nasty infections (which I've personally not ran into in a while), or you spend a long time with the customer on the phone explaining your justification for your action and where everything is they need.
No, reformatting isn't out of the question for any infection, period. However, I've only had to do this twice out of the hundreds of infections I've killed using antimalware and anti-rootkit tools.
I've removed a variant of the malware that's in the OP image for a customer before, and they're not difficult using the right tools and the right know-how, as well as looking for the right signs.
http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/virus-removal/remove-data-recovery
I guess it's not that big of a deal, since according to https://howsecureismypassword.net/, the password aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa (16 a's) would take 345k years to crack, so anything over 16 is essentially overkill. Kinda dumb that they don't tell you that anything over 16 isn't counted, though.
I've used these devices in a few spots temporarily, until we could pull additional lines. They work fine as long as you understand what's going on: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Honttevis-Network-Compatible/dp/B098T5N3Q6
If I can make a suggestion:
$20, fits in a pocket, usb receiver stores inside the unit, mouse and keyboard in one, never have to touch anybody's gross peripherals. ever again.
>Isn't it possible to fake renaming exe to something else?
Yes.
You're getting downvoted by idiots.
Here's an article that explains how it works.
And here is a proof of concept VBScript file disguised as a JPG. VBScript was chosen for this as it's easy to verify that it's not malicious, but there's no reason this couldn't be done with an EXE.
do yourself a favour, download ninite and run that the first time you install windows; it covers a lot of the common programs. totally legit and you don't have to run 20 separate installers and navigate through different websites to get them all.
This looks very similar. It could be a capacitor, but then why would it be labeled R86?
Either way, doesn't look like it did its proper job, if the board isn't working now :P
I did that once while modifying a miniITX case for a friend. It was sold to me as compatible with a gaming card, but it turns out it wasn't. Didn't want to send it back, so I crafted an alternative cooling system for the card that exhausted mostly through where the backplate used to be. I kept the card in place with a ziptie.