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PassMark CPU Benchmarks
Jet.com
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EVGA PrecisionX 16
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Can You Run It?
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Windows 10
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SteamOS
Memtest86+
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Not sure what kind of bug hands you have, but if they're pincer-style hands (like a crab claw), you might try the Logitech MX vertical. It should fit inside your claw reasonably well; I'm sure it's difficult using a flatter mouse when you don't have any fingers. Best of luck!
Microsoft Developer Network keys. MSDN is for software developers. It will cost you about $539 or $2,999 per year to join and get the package that gives Windows keys. Also if MS finds out they will cancel your subscription and cancel all of the keys.
I'll probably get downvoted for this, but at that price point i'd get this pc off of Amazon. It's a good prebuilt that has the ability to be upgraded. The biggest issue with it is the RAM, but you can always add another stick.
If it's only $10 and you're OK with that price difference then it's probably not a bad bet. The single thread rating is somewhat better. I'm just used to squeezing every drop of juice out of the lemon, so to speak, that I overlooked the reasonable performance gain in favor of keeping to your budget :)
You can use pretty much anything with enough USB ports. Check out something like http://www.clusterlinks.com/ for easy bridging and managing of connections, like multiple 4g adapters. Be aware, that for any kind of streaming, you generally can't just drop connection from one source and seamlessly pick it up from another. But I guess there is only one way to find out. Be our guinea pig you majestic bastard.
Any standard PWM fan splitters, choose based on how many branches you want (1 to 2,3,4, etc.). However, I'd personally recommend Noctua's fan splitters. Noctua is an all round really good company, and while it's only 1 to 2, there are plain ones and chromax ones to match your colour theme somewhat.
Here is a popular option for $180
- 1080p
- IPS
- 144Hz
- 24”
- FreeSync Premium (typically G-Sync compatible as well)
- 1 ms response time
- Fully adjustable stand
There are only a couple of things, I can see that I'd change. Firstly, for RAM, I think you can get Crucial RAM as a kit for a little cheaper (see the link below). Also, while I've not used the SSD personally, the Kingston V300 is pretty much one the most lowly considered ones on the market. Most of the more modern and featured reviews on Amazon seem to show this. I've heard good things about the OCZ Tirion 150 for the budget TLC SSD range (link below).
The only other thing I'd say is, if you're going to buy this a month or two from now, then it might be worth looking into the RX 480 for your GPU (new GPU that comes out in about 2 weeks).
Overall, looks solid to me, and don't worry about getting that power supply, it's pretty much one of the best out there. I'd say it's worth it.
Gotcha.
True ram speed after 2133 doesn't have a huge effect on a computer but was just saying if you budgeted for that, there are a lot of better options. Since you are going through Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0123ZCAKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Cy9BybP0DG9KQ I prefer corsair and gskill over other brands. You save about $10 with this.
Making a raid 0 for your ssds will make a pretty noticeable difference for you. Downside of it is if one drive goes you pretty much loose all your data. But the more drives the faster it gets. You could even go for 4x 250gb drives if you wanted for even faster speeds.
For the same money, you can get the newer 2600x from amazon that has a little better performance, and should play nicer with your memory.
Crucial P2 500GB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD Up to 2400MB/s - CT500P2SSD8 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B086BGWNY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k1qJFbS7GGQPF
Add this for Windows and small frequently played games and you are off to the races
So you don't need a separate drive for your OS as you'll have plenty of space with 2tb. Unless you want to keep you OS separate for some reason ( I can't think of one).
As we've seen with GPUs and CPUs, once you get above a point (3080) you pay hundreds more for not much more performance. It's up to you but honestly you won't need it unless you really just want the top end.
You don't need a sound card unless you're doing intense audio stuff. Unless you're doing complex mixing with many audio i/os you really won't need it.
This MB doesn't have wifi. For gaming, wired is always better if available. If unavailable, you could get a $30 wifi usb dongle. Or find a wifi pci card (Like this).
I know nothing about monitors. I'd recommend some LTT on types of monitors to inform your decision.
In terms of clearance for your GPU, you should be able to find on the manufactures page the max GPU size it can accommodate.
TBH I would say you have that well sorted. As a Meshify C owner my only comment would be to buy an extra 120mm fan for the front - they only come with one and the second one makes a decent difference on cpu temps. Its not major, but you might as well.
Only other comment (so the comment above wasn't really my only comment....) would be that the P1 is pretty well the slowest NVMe drive you can buy - not that the differences are huge in real world, but for only a tiny bit more money you could get Kingston A2000, or the Gigabyte 1TB, both a bit faster for maybe $2 or $3 more, and the Sabrent Rocket, which is a lot faster, is about an extra $10.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-RKTQ-1TB/dp/B07ZZYWTBP/
Np
Here is a good looking all black cooler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y87YHRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LCWlFbMRK9HGZ
If u really want liquid
Acer Predator Gaming Z321QU bmiphzx Curved 31.5" WQHD Monitor with NVIDIA G-SYNC Technology (Display Port & HDMI Port),Black.
Just picked it up! Its amazing, kinda pricey but you can get it on amazon around $600.
Can overclock to 165 FPS as well.
(Link: Acer Predator Gaming Z321QU bmiphzx Curved 31.5" WQHD Monitor with NVIDIA G-SYNC Technology (Display Port & HDMI Port),Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDQNDKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1ALNEbS24EHSF )
Thanks for the help you found some great deals, I added them into my updated build above. Do you think I could cut costs a little more by selecting a different 6gb GPU from the options on Jet.com here? Or is the one I selected worth the price?
https://jet.com/product/GEFORCE-GTX-1060-GDDR5-6GB/591cc75a384043d9a072ef41ae7febc8 if you wanna stick with the 1060 throw SPRING15 on it and it'd be around ~207.
You can get Windows 10 a lot cheaper on Ebay. (<$10)
that i5-7600k is also cheaper on JET with the spring15 code.
https://jet.com/product/Intel-Core-i5-7600K-Kaby-Lake-Quad-Core-38-GHz-LGA-1151-91W-BX80677I57600K-Deskt/1c48e85a5f8e422c97bf088770bae82f - 198 if you don't live in a taxed state.
I would also recommend going with 2400mhz ram it's usually the same price and will be a small performance increase.
These are our compatible cables for the PSU using the RM750x: https://store.cablemod.com/product/cablemod-pro-modmesh-c-series-rmi-rmx-cable-kit/
Currently they're out of stock on our global store, so you can sign up for email notifications, or order from Amazon. :)
Like others are saying, gaming laptops look gameresque... Really dumb that they doo that but oh well...
Heres at least a few that arent so gamery
The asus Zephyrus, kinda gamery but actually just really nice and sleek
A few select Lenovo Legions, they kinda look strange but they dont have and sharp edges and stuff... unlike lenovo ideapads ugh
Asus TUFs can be pretty normal, they are bulky and styled like military equipment, but they arent very wild
Heres an Asus Vivobook pro that has a 3050ti, vivobooks are their normal line of laptops so it looks like the pro version has a dedicated gpu
With black friday coming up keep an eye out on laptops all around, but keep in mind the "discounted" ones tend to actually just be clearence, still good but theyre usually running older hardware. Check with some people before you buy one to make sure its a good deal
Yeah Id say that is a good range, for a $1000 budget I think a CPU between maybe the $250-$350 range is good. And if you want a good bargain, my personal recommendation right now would be the ryzen 5 5600x. It's half off at Amazon right now and is a pretty good CPU thats normally around $300, I'll drop the link below.
https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-5600X-12-Thread-Processor/dp/B08166SLDF
Of course I'm not saying you have to get this one and you should still pick one out that you want, this just good deal right now that I stumbled on if you were wanting to splurge for a 30 series graphics card or something.
And honestly if you don't know the exact processor to get, odds are there's a YouTube video or something with a benchmark comparison of the exact same cpu/gpu combo you're looking at getting probably playing the game you like. Another resource is CPUbenchmark.net. The website gives you a literal score rating on how well the CPU performs if you want to compare if some processors are worth the price difference or not.
So your motherboard can go to 4400mhz but your CPU is rated for 3200, but the 5600x will work with 3600mhz.
Something like this is what you want.
But you'll need to make sure you change the ram profile in your motherboard bios first.
If any of those drives are under 1TB you can replace it with an SSD for under $50 and get the Corsair 4000D for $77. So you will only be paying a little bit more and have an SSD which if faster.
Thanks so far the H510 and Thermal Take Amazon have been all I can find I was certain I was missing something guess I am just antiquated trying to stuff HDD in a new build
How much is the 3950x you're looking at? On UK Amazon the 5950x is still cheaper. Check it out.
Not sure which country you're from so here is a link to Amazon US. It is a starter kit. All cables are sleeved and will be suitable with your PSU.
Give this one a shot, I use it for my MacBook Pro rather than spending $1,600 on the Studio Display.
can i also pick your brain about braided cable mods and then i'll leave you alone lol. i've seen some posts about users have bad experiences with improperly connecting them and melting things.
i have this asiahorse pcie extension but black. so when i add this hdd i was thinking of also doing that for aesthetic. it's an extension, so it's used WITH the psu supplied pcie line, not INSTEAD OF the supplied line yeah?
Odd choice of CPU cooler- I'd suggest something a bit more well known unless you're really set on that Sirocco for some reason? Personally I've never heard of it before now. Perhaps the Noctua NH-D15 or the bequiet Dark Rock 4 if you're not repulsed by big chonky air coolers. If the price bothers you, the Scythe Fuma 2 is the affordable option. At $20 more than the Sirocco, I'd highly suggest the Fuma 2 if nothing else. I don't know shit about liquid cooling so I can't help you there.
I'd also spend a bit more on a keyboard/mouse, personally. This build with that mouse and keyboard is like spending $1000 on a fancy mattress, and then using a dollar store pillow. You're allowed, I just don't know why you would. If you wanna go mechanical, this is pretty much as cheap as they get. I have a more expensive variant that I've owned for almost 5 years now. Solid keyboard, in more ways than one. It's built like a brick outhouse. Zero flex. Thing is a weapon.
Otherwise that looks pretty good. That RX 6600 is at a pretty good price, too!
G.Skill Trident Z NEO Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) 288-Pin SDRAM PC4-28800 DDR4 3600 CL18-22-22-42 1.35V Dual Channel Desktop Memory Model F4-3600C18D-64GTZN https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088CTJLHP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SZZKNB22YDFW7K8NWXTW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Looking at a 4GB model since it's cheaper, for some bizarre reason. Specifically, this thing. Still not entirely certain if it'll fit, of course - the curvy, largeish fan casing is a bit worrying.
here. It seems like other methods to manually deactivate it have been disabled and you must call Microsoft after installing Windows on your new computer and ask for their help, or do it online. Also, if your Windows is an OEM edition (the version that comes preinstalled on your computer when you buy it from a store), you cant reactivate it on another PC.
Well, I have a couple options for you.
The first, and what I did point out in my first comment, is building your own, which will be better than any prebuilt. Here’s a list I cooked up, it should definitely hold its own in 4K, especially with FSR (and apparently coming at the driver level so it’ll work in every game). Not much else to say, solid cpu with some great cooling, 1tb SSD, not much RGB though, but you can add you’re own if you want, or swap out some parts for pretty looking ones.
The other being a prebuilt. This being the best I could find (which I’m not very good at looking, I’d see what other people suggest). You might want to upgrade the cooling. As well as it having a 3060 (which should be 15-20% slower than the 6600 XT I have on the list, but it’s Nvidia so you’ll have access more more creative software, but you said you don’t want to stream so not much use), it has a much slower cpu. It also has a worse power supply, and slower ram.
The performance difference on the two machines are relatively great, and I would just say build your own, it would be a lot better.
Unless someone else mentioned it that power supply price seems out of wack.
Better option?
Have you tried scanning the WiFi channels being used? You can do this on your phone. You could be competing against neighbours connections which could cause the drop outs. Channels 1, 6 or 11 are the only non-overlapping ones to pick for 2.4GHz. I don't recall the rule of thumb for 5ghz WiFi but I'm sure there are guides out there.
I use WiFi analyser for Android
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer
Regarding the motherboard layout, there are boards designed with triple and quad GPUs in mind, one example is the EVGA Z87 Classified which would allow three double-slot graphics cards to have an empty slot between them, which is about the best you can possibly do with air cooled 3x crossfire, I suspect you could find a few others with a similar layout
For the CPU, since your focus is on gaming and you didn't specify >60Hz refresh rates, the i5 should give you playable performance in most cases, and moderate over-clocking (depending on the CPU cooler) should clear up the avoidable ones
(conclusion: there are VERY few cases where a game running under 60fps will be CPU bottlenecked by the i5 but not by an i7, so there's next to zero value for you to get a more expensive CPU than the 4670k)
Future games (on DX12 or Vulkan) may be able to take advantage of more than four threads under 60fps which would give reason for an i7 BUT in those cases, (based on the current benchmarks and reported plans released to the tech media) your graphics setup might just as likely be the bottleneck, so you can pretty much say it's impossible to future-proof any more by spending more on just the CPU today
Let me know if I didn't quite answer all of your questions
ok, so I did a bit of research and while the 4660 benchmarks about 20% lower than the 8320, the i5 scores slightly higher with user tests (not with maximum overclock, however). Considering the 8320 just dropped to $100, I think I'll take the better graphics card over the marginally better processor.
What did you mean about the power phase though? I dont see that in the specs
To tell what games your laptop can run there is a website that can help. It's called "Can You RUN It" LINK
There is not much you can do to upgrade a laptop, it is what it is.
Don't lose hope there will be a great many games you can play. Most will be older games but that is one of the greatest things about PC gaming, backwards compatibility. Newer games may be problematic. There is the indy scene, many indie games are less demanding on computer hardware. There is also emulation, want to play games from a different platform? MAME games, these are arcade games of the past. Most all of the Nintendo games can be played along with most every console imaginable. There are hundreds of games out there that even an old, low spec laptop can play. We are the PC Master Race and welcome.
I'd go with the 3600 MHz kit, but otherwise those choices look great. And yes, this should hold you at least 3-4 years.
I second the above, think the H510 wouldn't be great for thermals. I've used the Fractal Meshify 2 in several builds, hard to beat is for cooling and it's really easy to work in. You might check out the be quiet! Pure Base 500DX, really similar airflow-wise, but has kind of a unique look.
That's odd, the 3-pin RGB connection is an addressable line - but it just depends what color/pattern combos they programmed into that controller. Some have hundreds, some have maybe a dozen.
That controller could be moved to another case (I think that's what you were saying below.) The wire that goes to the control button on the front of the case can usually be connected to the reset button, so if your new case has a reset you can splice it to that and it should toggle through the lighting choices.
Another option is just to get a new RGB controller. Two options are the Zalman ZSYNC, around $20, and the Razer Chroma, about $40. Those would connect to your present motherboard's USB header and allow you to control RGB fans via their software.
Given the way parts are currently priced, a gaming laptop might be able to meet your needs.
I get most games at 100+ fps at 1080p.
I've really enjoyed using this one personally.
HP - OMEN Gaming 15.6" Laptop - AMD Ryzen 7 - 8GB Memory - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti - 512GB SSD - Mica Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JVNZJWT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_611KJE9RA6RAKREZSKQW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the suggestions.
I'll drop the cooler as the CPU probably isn't going to get stressed and I won't be over clocking. Will also look into the sn750 as an alternative and definitely go with the PSU as suggested.
I was more looking at the quadro cards but partpicker doesn't have the t600 or t1000 listed, the t600 is probably more than enough for Illustrator.
The monitors are an unknown to me. She needs colour correct as a lot of her work goes to digital print and is always working in Pantone CMYK. I get the 4k at small monitor size is counter productive and maybe I should be looking at the 32" 4k monitors instead. The Benq PD3200u seems to be recommended but costs bit more and maybe worth the extra spend. Benq PD3200u
I'd wager it's the headset. A good pair of headphones and a $30 mic will outperform most headsets for the same price. I use these (Got a pair for $80 used on amazon) and this and it all works great.
That pair of headphones are a personal choice. I listen to lots of acoustic music and prefer the open-back sound so probably not the best for gaming but they work for my uses.
oh ok what you've got is a single 3.5mm jack where you really need two, something like this should do the trick, though preferably not from amazon. these splitters maybe aren't needed but in my experience make a pretty noticeable difference as they give the mobo seperate channels for audio output and input
Limited-time deal: Crucial Ballistix 3200 MHz DDR4 DRAM Desktop Gaming Memory Kit 32GB (16GBx2) CL16 BL2K16G32C16U4B (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083TSLDF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_MWWMZSEKGEK75QZQYW8C
I agree with what u/Goku987654 said.
You can also save $20 or so with this case, which has all the usual case features, is compatable with your mobo, and looks pretty sexy for the price. I have one, and I've had no issues with it at all.
Unless you're planning on overclocking, which your motherboard does support, I'd suggest saving the cooler, case and 1600X money for a decent SSD or more ram.
Old PC: >https://novabench.com/view/1354420
New PC: >https://novabench.com/view/1384848
My old ones about 1.5 times "more powerful" and my new one is about 3 times "more powerful"
The funny thing is these scores almost represent price. My old one was about $1000-1200 (scored 1100) and my new one was almost $3000 (scored 2900)
Do you have a partition taking up space that you can delete?
Edit: I believe I resized my drive but can remember how. I found this link I think it gives you the option to increase the drive volume that should solve your problem.
>indie game blog
What's the kind of games you want to play, stream, and capture? Can you make some examples? Because if you include games as the coming Hellblade for example into that list, we've probably got a little problem with your budget.
>The media build
The media build isn't meant to stream and capture footage, it's meant to have a build that can keep up with current consoles and work as an entertainment system. I wouldn't go that route.
>+ a capture card
What do you mean by "capture card"?
>windows OS
You can save a good buck by installing SteamOS. Having such a tight budget that would be my suggestion. Here's a list of steam OS games. Maybe that fits what you want. But it doesn't play "the majority of what's out there in the world". However, I doubt you'll ever play that majority anyway. But for a universal solution, yes, Windows is best.
>can this be done with a laptop?
Building a computer yourself will be a better solution.
You install it after you finish the basic build test (put together parts outside the case to make sure they work before putting forth to the effort of assembling in the case). If you are going with windows, just go to here to purchase a windows license, and a combination of youtube and Window's instructions can guide you through the rest of the installation process. If you decide to go the Linux route (either for learning Linux or because it is free) I strongly recommend you install Ubuntu (instructions can be found on youtube), as it is more user-friendly to basic users in general. Personally, I think you should go with Windows if you are intending to game, as that is one of Linux's shortcomings.
Not sure where you're located, pricing/availability may be different for you. But the these Antec P12 Series RGB fans are sub-$30 for a 3-pack. You could get two packs so that all your fans would match.
drop the 32gb of ram down to 16gb if hes using it for gaming / general use. this kit of 16gb will be fantastic. you can get cheaper kits but Ive never had an issue with any builds using that kit.
i always recommend going for a SSD over a HDD / hard drive now of days + 3tb is usually more then what most folks would actually use. this SSD is currently on sale for a really good price and 2TB should be plenty of storage for a bit.
the GTX 1030 is unfortunately a horrible card but with how bad the card shortage is at this time its extremely difficult to get a good card for any reasonable price. if its all you can get for the time being then it is what it is and it'll run the computer but not well for games. id recommend trying to find a GTX 1650 Super / GTX 1660 / GTX 1660 Super / RTX 2060 / RTX 2070 / RTX 3060 / RTX 3060ti listed from worst to best.
the CPU is a fantastic choice and ive already done a few builds with it.
for the motherboard im not sure exactly which model of Gigabyte B450 it is but id recommend checking if its compatible with Ryzen 5000 (the CPU) without or with a BIOS update. this info will usually be listed on the box or you can sometimes find it online.
i build computers as a side gig so if you have any other questions feel free to send me a message or reply to this comment!
Here is more info, my bad:
My cooler at the moment is : https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00TBHYYFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ,it's not super expensive, but its still 20-25% of my budget for the cpu.
Now for the wi-fi part - I think you meant the IP's router (which is outside the block or under the ground somewhere), at least it sounds like the description of it. I'm talking about the router at home, I had that couple of years ago - the cable from the IP goes directly to my computer's LAN card (either separate or integrated in my MB), no wi-fi, no way to split it to more than 1 PC. I prefer this because for 3 years I have never ever had lag or even 1 time of my internet stopping - something I encounter from time to time with a router, not matter what it is.
Now the RAM - yeah, I forgot to tell, both are 3200MHZ :
G.SKILL FLARE X BLACK DIMM KIT 16GB F4-3200C14D-16GFX
or
G.SKILL RIPJAWS V DIMM KIT 32GB F4-3200C16D-32GVK
the 32GB is a bit more expensive, but lets say they are the same.
Three fans would be plenty in that case, yes - two in front, one in rear and you're set. Aesthetically, if the case is white, I'd go with white Uni Fans and a white cooler like this one. Add some white cable extensions and you'd have a clean look.
The Lian Li Mini is an amazing case. But you'll start adding on expenses - SFF PSU is a little more, it takes 8-9 fans to fill out the space nicely, and they (arguably) look better with an AIO. So kind of depends on your budget. It would look really nice, but probably have similar cooling for a couple hundred dollars more.
(Looks like you're in Australia - if that cooler link doesn't work for you it's the ARCTIC Freezer 34 Esports - Tower CPU Cooler, but any white tower cooler would look great.
wow, I wasn't even aware costco sold computers. But then I haven't stepped into a costco in many years. Ok so I have been looking and comparing and came to this one on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Skytech-Chronos-Mini-Gaming-Desktop/dp/B0946451DV/
I put in both cpu's on a comparison webpage, the amazon prebuilt and the costco prebuilt and it says that the AMD is supposed to be faster at 3.7Ghz where as the Intel chip runs at 2.7Ghz. But the overall rating for both cpu's are almost equal. How does that work?
​
Also neither build mentions anything about the mobo or power supply. Are we just supposed to assume that both will be adequate and support extended periods of use?
I usually only do 2 fans per header. You can get a sata powered hub that uses a single pwm header on the mobo to control multiple fans connected to the hub. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0887VG14J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_73TYZQPT3VQ1TAARZCWM
I got this ordered from Amazon. Should the fans be blowing air into the case or out of the case?
CPU Cooler with 5 Direct Contact Heatpipes, ARESGAME River 5 CPU Air Cooler for Intel/AMD with 120mm SYNC ARGB PWM Fan (5V ARGB Header is Required on Motherboard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JCG2V6P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N0BEZEAVTW1CXAY7JN3C
Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM, High Performance Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 1700 RPM (120mm, Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WJT1ZG4HNETQQS6NB94S
yeah, i found a 28.99 256gb ssd that i would probably install myself (this one -> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicon-Power-256GB-Performance-Internal/dp/B07KR2CX1F/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=256gb+ssd&qid=1621863655&s=computers&sr=1-4 )
It's larger than you specified but I am using an AOC CU34G2X. 1440p Ultrawide, 144Hz. Moderately priced.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZB2TNZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
G502 is on sale on amazon for 39.99 right now dude. Check that out
Logitech G502 Hero High Performance Gaming Mouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBZ4Q68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A2JXMQKESGMH5W6DT56X
Monitor: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/acer-nitro-xf243y-pbmiiprx-23-8-full-hd-monitor-hdmi/6425559.p?skuId=6425559 A little over
Headphone: Audio-Technica ATH-M20X Professional Studio Monitor Headphones, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9EQZS0E7F9738WPWD48C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Keyboard:rk61
Mouse: Razer viper mini goes on sale for 20 often
EZDIY-FAB 120mm Computer Case Fan,Motherboard Aura Sync Fan,High Airflow,Speed Adjustable,Addressable RGB Fan for 10-Port Fan Hub and Remote-5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDZC96K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_te.7FbEVHM1VJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have these in my Meshify C and have no complaints. They're currently $51.17, but regularly go cheaper than that.
try the Zalman M3 Plus mATX Mini Tower if you want mini atx i got it and its a great case plenty of room for cable management i got a non modular psu and pull sized hard drive it all fits well into the bottom chamber plus it looks great
I've purchased this chair two months ago. It is pretty comfortable. Arm height is ok, they don't adjust. Butt cushion is so so. It's ok for the first hour or two but after that hurts the tail bone a bit. I'm 5'9 280lbs. Lumbar pillow is pointless, but neck pillow is great. Best price for performance out there. If you can afford more I would recommend doing so though.
Deco Gear DGPCS01 seems good it’s what I’m planning on going with but I have also not built my first pc yet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YYP4WJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_x5BUFbBEEHKVW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's a very good PSU, it'll do just fine. Let me know if you have any question about the flashing of firmware, but if you do some googling and youtubing it should be clear how to do it. It's a very straightforward process, although a bit nerve-wracking.
I have an APC UPS that I have been using for many years. I needed to replace its battery last year, but other than that it has been pretty solid. It's this one ir a similar one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY12HW4/
Thanks for the heads up, that's great advice!
I ordered it today but haven't received it. It's being re-stocked now, I believe, before it ships out in a few days. I couldn't tell from the listing which revision it is, do you know of a way to tell?
Thanks!
I'm planning to get 2x Sabrent NVMe 4.0 2 TB drives for programs and active files. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TN1MNJ4/ref=twister_B08FV59HHS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And I'll get a large Samsung Evo for storage, and I've got Backblaze which just takes care of giving me an off-site backup with constant backups.
Oh wow it restocked today? Mind if I ask where you're watching? I'm in the Stockdrops discord, but they aren't showing it has dropped since 11/13 according to their bots.
You are probably ok putting 3-pin fans on a 4-pin header, but...does your mobo have any cables for these headers? Can you find a splitter with one 4-pin on one end and multiple 3-pin on the other?
Example: https://www.amazon.ca/OLEY-Molex-Splitter-Power-Sleeved/dp/B076H35NNY
Note: 4-pin fans include a fan speed control/monitor signal. If you don't get yourself some 4-pin fans, you won't have access to or control over your fan speeds, they will probably just run at full speed all the time (and be very noisy). Also, you can't split 4-pin to 4-pin as they would confuse the controller by returning multiple signals on the same mobo header. Each 4-pin fan needs to be on its own 4-pin mobo header for this feature to work properly.
Edit: I looked up your board, you have two 4-pin headers so you can connect two 4-pin fans (or liquid coolers) to the mobo and have the full set off an control features, or you could just use 4-pin to 3-pin connectors or splitters and let them run at full speed.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N4L6MLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dLATFb1V2YAZ9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have had this one for about a year and it's been very good, only buy if you're planning to mount it through a hole in the desk though the base isn't very stable.
Here is an Amazon Link, but as I am from germany price might differ depending on your location, for me its about 114€ rn, some (local) online shops go as low as 101€ but I dont think they will offer delivery outside of Germany, Austria or Switzerland, so better check for the best offer in your specific region
Either your monitor or GPU. If your current monitor is 1080p 60hz or less, I would go for a 1080p 144hz monitor. I'm looking to get this one personally on black friday. I think you would see a better jump in performance by getting a high refresh rate monitor than a new GPU if you don't have one.
Otherwise, I'd sit tight and see what AMD and Nvidia release for the low-end cards around $200 in several months.
The more important question is what monitor are you using? If it's a normal 1080p 60fps monitor (or a lower resolution), then I would upgrade that before any other part in your system. I would personally pick up a 1080p 144hz monitor. I'm looking to get this one around black friday.
After that, if you'd still like an upgrade then I would go with a lower end CPU like a Ryzen 3100 since they perform similarly to the 3600XT for significantly less money. If you are satisfied with your performance on the 144hz monitor though, I think it's worth considering waiting several months for the full stack of Ryzen 5000 CPUs to come out. You could get a much better deal for the same amount of money.
The B550 tomahawk isn't quite the same as the B450 tomahawk as it targets a higher price point and quality. I think the MSI B550-A Pro would suit your needs just fine while costing less. And the only reason I would get a B550 board is if you ever upgrade to the point where you need PCIe Gen 4 for your GPU or an SSD. (Which I doubt would happen for many years since the RTX 3090 doesn't even need PCIe Gen 4). Otherwise, the B450 Tomahawk Max would be a solid choice for less coin.
Additionally, I would see if you can get a new bracket for your H100 to mount to an AM4 motherboard. If it's just a compatibility issue then I would keep your current cooler if you can make that work.
Why not save some money and instead of two NVMe drives you got one 2TB SSD? (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-2TB/dp/B07MTQTNVR/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=2tb+nvme&qid=1604127395&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQ1U3ME9CSERNMkxXJmVuY3J5cH...). And do you really need an X570? Might be able to save some coin on the motherboard with a B550. Just my two cents. The rest looks really nice.
If you have your mind fixed on pre-built PCs, you can always buy an Asus ROG Tower. It's available on Amazon and they are pretty reasonably priced. It's not fancy but will do what you expect of it.
A few things. I would get a better WiFi adapter that does ac as well as N. AC is shorter range (because 5Ghz doesn't go as far as 2.4Ghz) while N will allow you to be much further from the router because N is 2.4Ghz. Depending on your router, it would be wise to pick up a b/g/n/ac card as AC will provide better speeds and the 5Ghz is mostly in the free space (2.4Ghz is over saturated in most places, especially apartment complexes, which can cause degradation of service)
I don't often bring this up but most people don't actually use their CD/DVD drive. I don't have one on my computer as I just use USB flash drives for anything that might need a DVD. Plus writing an ISO to USB is way easier and quicker than burning an ISO to a DVD and it's reusable for many things. As a for instance, you can burn a windows iso to a USB drive (about 4GB) and then if you have extra space (say you have a 8GB drive) use it for additional storage on top of also being your OS installation. You can go big and get something like 32 or 64 or even 128 for very cheap. Make sure its USB 3.0 though. I just grabbed the first 64GB 3.0 I found on amazon http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-Transfer-Speeds-SDCZ48-064G-UAM46/dp/B00KYK2ABI/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464889936&sr=1-6&keywords=64gb+flash+drive
Check out Rufus if you have windows https://rufus.akeo.ie/ for writing ISOs to USB.
The PSU is fine, while it's "cheap" it's because it's non-modular but I've never had issues with EVGA previously. You can splurge and get a modular one which would be better for a first time build.
I realize you're probably on a budget, but if you can give your budget (I'm assuming under 500) I can recommend some changes.
All very good components. You should have no problem hitting 60fps on any of the latest titles at 1080p on high-ultra settings.
Also worth noting, I have the same tesseract case. It's very easy to build inside of, lots of room for cable management, and the drive bays are great to snap in and out of.
You could save a few bucks on your PSU if you wanted; unless you planned on doing some serious upgrades in the future, a 500W or even 430W PSU should be plenty for that build; you can find a quality 430W PSU for $30 regularly.
I bought a refurbished 1TB WD drive from amazon here and saved a few more dollars as well. I haven't had any issues with it; it's up to you if you felt it was worth it though.
Okay, I am looking at the Amazon page for the Mobo in question, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2V0AHI/?tag=pcpapi-20 .
Looking at the features section, it lists M2 up to 32 GB/s capability. I see the warning on pcpartpicker as well, however. How do you know/ would I figure out that the amazon page listing the capabilities is lying?
Is there a way to adjust the pcpartpicker parametric filter to only list options that allow full speed nvme use?
Ditch the 2.5 inch SATA and put an NVMe drive in that M.2 slot on your motherboard instead.
For example, the 500GB Crucial P1 is about the same price at Amazon right now.
I've been looking at getting a monitor for a 2060 as well and I think I've settled on getting this one
It's got the high refresh rate 144hz that I want, an IPS panel for nice colors, and freesync that I've heard is compatible with Nvidia G-sync, but it isn't officially support by Nvidia at the moment.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.newegg.com/amp/g-skill-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232884
There’s the 58$ G.skill aegis 16gb 3200Mhz ram, I don’t know how good it is, but it’s probably better than having 8GB
Here’s also 16gb 3200Mhz Corsair Vengeance, it’s on sale at the moment for 63$, it’s pretty good for the price
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/AOC-G2490VX-Frameless-1920x1080-Re-Spawned/dp/B08FJHMTZJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=cheap+144hz+monitor&qid=1602918273&sr=8-4
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I'd go for XPG's PSU as well, fair price with bronze-certified. https://www.amazon.com/XPG-Certified-Dynamic-Bearing-PYLON450B-BKCUS/dp/B08G5CBYCW?currency=USD&language=en_US
use PcPartPickeryou're gonna save everyone a few headaches reading part lists.
Get an M.2 NVMe ... not a cheap SSD like this one. If you like Kingston, get a 1Tb Kingston A2000 for 120$. Double the speed, basically
3733 Mhz RAM but CL19 ... not the best. Get 3200/3600Mhz CL16 RAM instead and save a few bucks, unless you got a special deal. You don't really need 3733 Mhz RAM and it's not worth the extra cost.
You're getting an aftermarket CPu cooler - you're aware that the Ryzen 5 3600 comes with a cooler included out of the box, right ? As you're "new to this" you might not be doing much overclock, the stock cooler is good enough.
Be aware the GTX 1660 Super is a great deal for 1080p/1440p gaming, not for 4K gaming.
Also don't forget to take into account monitor and peripherals costs in your list ... maybe you want a gaming mouse, speakers, lights ... try to plan ahead.
Not it's not. Its a bad fucking idea. The case is from 2000. Come on.
Here's why :
- front panel I/O - you got no USB port, no audio jack, no audio mic, three drives bays and a .. floppy disk bay. You're basically ditching every quality of life improvements that the past 20 years have brought the front panel accessibility.
- air flow - the way PC cases are built has changed quite a lot. 20 years ago you would get a plastic monster with barely any airflow coming in. Those would become dust bowls after a year. Now manufacturers make lighters build with plenty of space and usually decent airflow. If you're planing on gaming - don't use a shit case ! Both your CPU and GPU are gonna need plenty of fresh air to, you know, not burn
- looks - unless you want to make a sleeper PC (which I doubt) this thing belongs in a museum. Not packed with high-end gaming parts
- fan compatibility - the fans from that era are 80mm. Today's fans are 120mm or 140mm. Larger fans provide better airflow and best value. With that case you got two 80mm rear fans. Can you get two 80mm fans and just plug those in your ancient case ? Sure ! How must does it costs ? More than 120mm fans ! Should you buy a modern case that comes equipped with fans with that money instead ? Absolutely !
Bottom line :
- it's a bad idea regarding overall quality of the build
- it's a bad idea budget-wise
- it's gonna look like shit
- it's gonna be a pain in the ass to assemble
​
Get a modern case. You're on a budget ? Sure. Get one of those for less than $50 :
Or get one used from Ebay. Just don't use your 8100.
I don't think you'll find a blanket as the chance of a hose getting dislodged is probably too high.
However you can get chilled mattress pads for $150: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPMPVLM/
You could even get just the pad and try hacking together your own system?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPCCVGT/
There's also the bedjet and similar systems that blow air through the blankets.
I have a meshify C - it looks great and cools superbly - Coolermaster have just copied it and theirs has less of a spider web look:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-MasterBox-TD500-Mesh/dp/B0839Y7933/
See if you can find a case without the tempered glass panel and go for one of these maybe?
Also if you want something easier to move (but still pretty heavy) you can look for a case with a handle. I got a cooler master h500 for the same reason. It has a handle built at the top which works since I only occasionally move my PC from one room to another.
So would this 2070 work for my build and fit inside the case I want?
What about this one, it is micro atx, with WiFi and has the PCle 4.0 thing, is it ok? :
ASUS Prime B550M-A WiFi AMD AM4 (3rd Gen Ryzen Micro ATX Motherboard (PCIe 4.0, WiFi 6, ECC Memory, 1Gb LAN, HDMI 2.1/D-Sub, [email protected], Addressable Gen 2 RGB Header and Aura Sync) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081PZTZ4B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uxssFb241CFWD
I can’t find one, the issue is you need rgb headers for those fans. If you can return them then do that and buy some with the fan controller or These Asiahorse King of Cost Performance FS-N001 ARGB 5V Motherboard Sync/Analog PWM Controller with High Airflow,Speed Adjustable 800-1500RPM Hydraulic Bea https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08173MYP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5HEjNjRNW16lT
Yes. Without a WiFi chip on your motherboard, you can only use internet via Ethernet cable (hardwire).
The only way around this is through installing new hardware. A USB WiFi adapter is convenient, but a PCIe adapter will be faster. Both require driver installation via disc, so I'd hope you have a disc reader.
Overall it's just better to make sure your motherboard has the WiFi and Bluetooth chips.
Hey, I didn't take a real in depth look at the PC Part Picker list you sent, but I just finished my own first gaming PC, and I want to share a few tips I wish I'd known:
- WiFi/Bluetooth. If you want it, make sure your motherboard has it. Mine didn't, and it was a big shock. Or, you can buy a USB adapter, but a PCIe adapter is better. The Bluetooth will take 1 set of USB 2.0 pins (4 pins). I looked, and your motherboard has it! Woohoo! But I'm leaving this in here in case someone else reads this and it helps them, too.
- So a USB 2.0 header slot is 9 pins, and gives 2 USB 2.0 ports. 4 pins per port, and probably a ground or something. But sometimes you'll have a plug-in that only uses 4 pins instead of all 8-9. An example in my computer is 1 single USB 2.0 port at the front of the case, and also the USB connection required for Bluetooth that I mentioned earlier. If this happens to you and you want to connect them so they use just 1 set of 9 pins instead of 2, you can use a sewing needle to lift the plastic "locks" that hold the pin connector in place, and safely pull the pin connector out of the plastic, and put it into the plastic of the other cord. Just make sure you take note of where each pin connector was.
- Want more USB ports? Depending on how many 9 pin headers you have left, you can get some!
- If you're installing Windows and you get an error like, "Cannot read Product key from unattended txt file", then it's because you have a disc inserted, and removing it will fix the problem.
Tbh for cheaper price and great performance Sceptre 24-Inch Curved 144Hz Gaming LED Monitor Edge-Less AMD FreeSync DisplayPort HDMI, Machine Black (C248B-144RN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MTMCNLX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qCnoFbW5D4C0J hope this helps :)
For the power supply you can go with the SilverStone st65f. Cheaper and graded higher. I have the 850w titanium model and after the short in my house I'm a SilverStone fan.
So for Raid 0 its all about sharing the work load. The NVME solid state drive you chose will probably read, write, and copy files 20x faster than the 2 TB HDD. What would take 40 minutes for a regular mechanical hard drive to copy files might only take 3 minutes for an NVME. But, what if you wanted even faster read and write speeds? What if you wanted 40x speeds? Modern day motherboards come with the BIOS option of combining identical drives and using them as one drive. Instead of copying 10 GB files onto one drive the motherboard splits the work over two drives. Now each drive only has to copy 5 GB of files making the copy process twice as fast. I have a few games stored on an external hard drive just in case something ever happens and I was amazed when I could transfer GTA V ( a 65 GB game ) in only a few minutes. It used to take my old mechanical hard drive an hour and a half to do the same thing. You don't really need Raid 0 but it is a nice thing to have if you're gonna be copying big files. It shouldn't increase game performance all too much either so its on a person by person case if you really want to go the Raid 0 route.
For $12 more, you could get an RX 580
For $20 more, you could get an RX 590
Build looks good, though.
Hey, I didn't look at the PC Part Picker list you sent, but I just finished my own first gaming PC, and I want to share a few tips I wish I'd known:
- WiFi/Bluetooth. If you want it, make sure your motherboard has it. Mine didn't, and it was a big shock. Or, you can buy a USB adapter, but a PCIe adapter is better. The Bluetooth will take 1 set of USB 2.0 pins (4 pins)
- So a USB 2.0 header slot is 9 pins, and gives 2 USB 2.0 ports. 4 pins per port, and probably a ground or something. But sometimes you'll have a plug-in that only uses 4 pins instead of all 8-9. An example in my computer is 1 single USB 2.0 port at the front of the case, and also the USB connection required for Bluetooth that I mentioned earlier. If this happens to you and you want to connect them so they use just 1 set of 9 pins instead of 2, you can use a sewing needle to lift the plastic "locks" that hold the pin connector in place, and safely pull the pin connector out of the plastic, and put it into the plastic of the other cord. Just make sure you take note of where each pin connector was, and of course be careful with the pins and the plastic.
- Want more USB ports? Depending on how many 9 pin headers you have left, you can get some!
- If you're installing Windows and you get an error like, "Cannot read Product key from unattended txt file", then it's because you have a disc inserted, and removing it will fix the problem.