It's a handy little tool, which allows you to disable all the spyware on Win10. It even comes with three easy presets (recommend, limited recommended and all options), but you have full control over what you want to disable.
They exist. Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO DDR4 Light Enhancement Kit (Without Built-in Memory) Enthusiast RGB LED Illuminated Memory Kit - White https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07L2SKQX9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FPahFbS6VTYJG
Well if you want a place holder literally just so you can use your pc there’s a 710 for like $70 but it’s last one in stock. Or get a used for like 40
It's called GPU sag, it's really common. Most of the stress is being put on the case where it screws in, not on the motherboard or card.
There are plenty of methods to alleviate it, Lego bricks seem to be a popular one. Alternately, there are more "proper" things you can get, but really anything that won't melt in the case (e.g. most plastics) that can hold it up will suffice.
5.25 bay drawers. If you have bays not being used by anything, pop one of these suckers in and throw all your gubs in there. I bought 2 for my PC to keep USB's, pens, spare cables, screws, etc., in them. Quality could be better but they work well enough so I'm not complaining.
Warning: You can't choose what drive it downloads to (SSD vs HDD). It will download to whatever your OS is on (usually the C: drive.) This may be a problem with people with small 120 GB SSDs like me who have to micromanage their downloads to go to their HDD to save room for the games.
I don't know why everyone is telling you to get a used monitor..
This monitor is fine and cheap..
This is a perfect example of Reddit, OP knows quite a lot about AV and most of the people know very little so his message becomes accepted as truth.
After almost 20 years in the AV industry I can tell that the list is not bad, but it's nowhere near accurate. Especially the protection level estimates are not very accurate. http://www.av-comparatives.org and https://www.av-test.org/en/ are good starting points to form your own opinion.
If you'd like to get an invite to a beta group for an AV, mostly production quality, often better since we can fix bugs faster, drop me a PM. You can also go to beta.f-secure.com and apply directly, but it might take a while to get in unless you PM me.
Destroying your front audio jack has nothing to do with your motherboard. It is a part of your case. So replacing your motherboard will achieve nothing.
So how do you fix it?
One option is to plug your headphones directly into your motherboard through the rear green 3.5mm audio output. You might need a 3.5mm extension cable for your headphones:
Another option is if you prefer to plug into the front of your PC case. Get a small cheap USB DAC so you can plug your headphones into a front USB port:
Not the best, but probably the best cost: The Dell S2716DG (S2716DGR in store) has all those features, and regularly goes on sale for between $350 - $450. I picked it up at Best Buy around Black Friday last year for $350. Keep an eye on /r/buildapcsales
Color on it is a bit washed out but it can be partially mitigated by tweaking the panel settings. I never notice this when gaming or being immersed in a movie, only when comparing it to the same image on another screen. You may see posts about banding issues when displaying dark colors, but that seems to have been fixed in current revisions (A07 or later I believe, typing this all from memory). Can run up to 144, and I believe I heard it can be run at 165 with a tweak, but I never explored it because I'm not interested.
Have been using this for about a year now, no complaints. About one out of every 100 startups I have to restart the panel because it bugs slightly, but it runs perfectly fine after that. This may be an issue with my PC though, and/or how I have it setup (I'm using both my iGPU and GPU to run two separate monitors). I love how minimal the bezel is.
Currently $462 before shipping/taxes on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-S2716DG-Gaming-Computer-Monitor/dp/B072DV4KCP/
Weird, it may be just coincident with the RAM change. If your login have admin access you can just take owner ship of those folders.
I usually use NiNite to install essential programs that I use on the day to day. It's useful program that lets you handle the process in one go. Can also pick which programs you want and don't want. https://ninite.com
Assuming you own your home and don’t need to get a landlord’s permission, you’ll have to get the right type of CAT6 cable to put in the wall along with the correct wall plate, cut a hole for the plate, then fish the line through the wall, either up from the basement or down through the attic, wherever your cable/phone jacks start from.
You can use an automated tool such as Spybot Anti-Beacon. Some are worse than others, and some can do damage. This one should be fine.
Since you are installing Windows 10, you can block a lot of it during the install. Review this to get a better understanding. Doing things manually is always your best approach.
I used a $35 set from Phanteks. These to be exact. They’re amazing. I could have routed the motherboard cables behind the white beam, but I decided to take a tiny hit in overall airflow and route them in the front to show off how gorgeous they are.
Lol reminds me of this amazon 1070 listing where the first pic seems fine then you realize the rest are of a 750 ti lmao.
What hardware is he planning on mining with, and what does electricity cost in your area? With that information, it's pretty simple to calculate payouts and whether it'd be worth it.
In most area's, the cost of the electricity to run the hardware, is exceeding the value gained from mining. So say you mined $100 worth of some coin, it might cost you $120 worth of electricity to do so.
Nicehash has a simple profitability calculator: https://www.nicehash.com/profitability-calculator
Your dad definitely won't be making $500 a month though unless he is buying multiple mining ASICs, general hardware just isn't going to hit that these days.
But for example, an RTX 2080 with an electricity cost of $0.12/KWh will generate a whole $1.88 a month profit on average.
Vega 64, would do $2.85 profit a month.
Say he spends a fairly conservative $500 on a Vega 64. At $2.85 a month, it would have to run continuously for 175.4 months, or about 14.6 YEARS, before it paid itself off. And that's just the GPU, not the rest of the system. It also doesn't take into account that mining gets progressively harder over time, reducing profit. In reality, the Vega 64 would likely only last a couple years, if that, before it started losing money.
Yeah I decided to splash out and get an IPS 144-165hz monitor with G-Sync and 2K. Most expensive component of my computer but worth it
Coozu makes an under desk stick thing with 3USB charging ports and a headphone holder on both sides. It’s plugged into the wall instead of the USB on your computer
If you want to ease your eyes a little in the evening and don't mind not having all the colors, try out F.lux.
It takes away the blue/white colors of your screen in evening. It's much more comfortable for the eyes this way.
I've got one of these little dust blowers and love it. There are cheaper versions too that are probably fine. It's just a little mini air compressor that blows dust out of nooks and crannies. It's great for cleaning pcs.
I'm gonna go against the hive mind here and suggest a gaming laptop. I've dealt with transporting a desktop back and forth when I went to boarding school, and it was pain when it was only once every few months.
If you split it up and build two then you'd get two $600 PC's compared to what you could otherwise build.
Laptops are getting great these days, grab a laptop with a 1060 and Thunderbolt. Buy the laptop, if you need more power later an eGPU enclosure is always an option for upgrade without replacing the entire laptop. It will be much more than 4 years before the 7700/6700HQ become dated for gaming. This one falls into your budget nicely, https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GS43VR-Phantom-Pro-006-i7-6700HQ/dp/B01IO9Y30G
(Disclaimer: I do own this one for college/work, so I'm probably a bit biased towards it, but it's a steal at $1050)
ITX is always an option, but you're already paying the "ITX tax" of more expensive components with less features (mobo, storage space, airflow) just for size. If you're already giving up many perks of a desktop for portability, then a laptop might be a good idea. Especially when modern laptops have desktop equivalent graphics cards and external GPUs are an option. Just my two cents.
Edit: If OP or anyone is considering the laptop I posted, but is unsure about the seller, I'll say that I bought mine refurbished from Tegra Tech Store on Amazon as well for the exact same price. It came very well packaged, I was really impressed with the packaging, and even had a free mousepad included. It did have an issue where the ethernet port didn't work, but I've since sent it in for RMA, and since they're a certified refurbisher you get an MSI warranty for 180-days. (Although when I registered it, it actually said it was 1 year, +3 more months for registering it with MSI)
Check this out at Amazon.com AmazonBasics Standby UPS 600VA 360W Surge Protector Battery Backup, 8 Outlets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q48YGF/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_AiXPDbRVQKF6Z
I don't see the exact model I have listed anymore. But it is close to this model. Pick the size you need for your computer
Alright, maybe they aren't, but what you're doing to profit off of users is bullshit. The "featured PC of the week" that users can shop for on your site? There's an identical one on Amazon with the exact same specs, photos and everything, for $100 less- not only are you making users think the PC on your site is a better deal than Amazon's identical model (even if CYBERPOWERPC gives you a different meaningless model number) at $100 more, but you're taking Amazon's profit margin and adding on top of it all for you to keep yourself as profit.
Those anti stat wrist things are cheap!
If you can afford to build a computer you can definitely afford to buy one. Reusable too, so you can use it during future upgrades.
I have a one year subscription to Private Internet Access. Its been great. Low ping, never had any downtime, great encryption features, great speeds. I probably sound like a shill but its actually been completely flawless so far.
Try to find as many of your parts on Jet.com as you can.
They offer substantial discounts for buying multiples of the same item.
You can find the R5 1600 on jet.com right now. If you haven't ordered on the site before, You can also use code "SPRING15" to save up to $30 on your order.
Just trying to help you save a bit of cash. Good luck with the builds. You are one hell of a cousin.
I once did the same thing but over a buddies drive. Luckily there was only 3 important folders that he needed recovered.
I loaded a boot-able Hirens, that had recovery software included, onto a flash. There were a few apps that I could use but the very first one I used called "Aomei Back Upper".. This software took 3 days to scan the entire 2TB which in turn recovered over 4TB of data that had been on the disk prior. I searched for his folders, restored them to an external and wala.
Aomei or one of the other apps also had a "recover lost partition" option as well.
A Hirens boot CD is a must have for any techie. https://www.hirensbootcd.org/download/
This. The PSU is 1 of the most important parts of the PC and often the most over looked.
The PSU is the 1 part that when it goes bad, can break every other part in the PC if you happen to get unlucky. More often that not it will just stop working, but you have a higher chance of it taking another part with it when using cheap PSUs.
You can get an EVGA 500W Gold rated PSU new from Amazon $39.99 (down from $74.99) currently
This thread is about to be bombarded with anecdotal experiences and subjective feelings and “Well, I’ve always been happy with...”
Don’t accept that mostly-useless information. We actually have very detailed benchmarks for antivirus and there’s no point in relying on anecdotes for antivirus in 2018.
You’ll be most interested in Performance. And yes, Defender is one of the worst for performance. Microsoft did a lot of good stuff, but very little for performance.
Pick and Choose as Needed. I usually get:
Last 4 aren't on Ninite but easy enough to find. Once I get all that installed and everything updated to the newest version and logged in.. I create a backup/System Restore Point
Why don't you get a 1440p display, cheaper sata ssd, cheaper cpu and mobo (ryzen 2, since you'd be playing on a higher res than 1080p ryzen 2 won't bottleneck and you won't need an aftermarket cooler) and you can step down to a 600/650w psu
you'll save: $176.88 on the cpu and cpu cooler (you'll also save some on the mobo). you'll save around $30 depending on the sata ssd you get (possibly more). save more than $30 and get this psu. So a total of around $295
you can get an Acer G247HYU for $230, you can find better deals on 1440p monitors tho
You'll get an overall better experience for slightly less money
Be careful with terminology. You don't need a converter. You need a displayport to HDMI cable. No adapter or anything. They might use the word adapter in the description for the cable, but a converter is a different thing and usually used to go from HDMI out to DisplayPort in.
Something like this should be fine.
Google it. They're kinda weak sauce but effective at keeping that second drink acceptably cool. Rather just buy a proper mains-powered mini fridge - something like this.
Sidebar Diagnostics, based on Open Hardware Monitor, is also a pretty neat tool: https://github.com/ArcadeRenegade/SidebarDiagnostics
As the name suggests, it displays system stats in a sidebar on your desktop.
It allows you to scroll a window that you're not focused on.
I won't say it's something essential, but it's pretty damn nice to have once you get used to it.
If you have a second monitor i recommend this Sidebar Diagnostics
You can see pictures here
I've been using the APC Back-UPS Pro 1000VA for years now. Every week or so it clicks on for a couple seconds and then back off (self-test). Other than that, it works as intended. I use this model at home and at work without issue.
Note that SteamOS is a Linux distribution. Valve are doing a pretty good job of pushing gaming on Linux now - it's not universal (and never will be) but it's looking pretty good now.
500 dollar that includes monitor? Oh well... And 3d work too.
Literally only option is anything with Ryzen 2200G. Like this one : https://www.amazon.com/HP-Pavilion-Desktop-Computer-590-p0020/dp/B07BD4Q46Q/ Notice this does not include monitor. At this point a cheap sub 100 dollar monitor would work.
Or, I am pretty sure unless your work is at rural area, there has to be at least one local computer shop that can do assemble the PC for you.
This is one of the examples. Similar price compared to prebuilt but better spec. ( https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FcQG7W )
Now, since you mentioned you work at education, your school should have its own distributor that gives things like Windows license and office products such as mouse, keyboard and monitor with extremely inexpensive prices.
I'd recommend the IPS version of the monitor you're looking at. I just got one recently and I love it. You can save some bucks with a refurbished version too.
Chromax all the way, there are also black colour versions of their coolers now it looks like
Built my hackintosh following this site. I used a gigabyte mb and it woked great, read about mb compatibility thats a thing.
Edit: hackintosh compatibility list. Looks like youre ok. http://www.tonymacx86.com/general-hardware-discussion/100568-latest-haswell-lga1150-motherboard-info.html
Because their business model is clear - make a really handy, free consumer product to gain reputation, then sell a very similar enterprise product that adds a some features which are really handy to IT departments that manage a lot of machines and price it in a way that makes it a no-brainer compared to the employee time it saves.
Sure, I can help.
Actually, it's 2015; there really are no arcane majicks* to "Linux" anymore... as long as you follow directions.
Ubuntu is the big and popular "distribution" of Linux, and directly supported by Valve's Steam platform, and gets great performance on most Valve games.
Steam OS is based on the same code that Ubuntu is based on; but it immediately launches Steam in Big-Picture mode at startup (see below for ShinyCyril's better explanation). In theory, SteamOS and Steam running on Ubuntu will perform identically, though SteamOS is probably easier for Valve to support, as it is meant to be less custom.
^^* ^^Unless ^^you're ^^building ^^everything ^^from ^^source ^^without ^^the ^^use ^^of ^^a ^^package ^^manager. ^^Then ^^you ^^get ^^to ^^be ^^a ^^wizard.
A lot of people are close to the right answer in here, but I think they're ignoring one big part about the upgrade, which is the cross-platform integration and the app ecosystem. Part of the reason they're doing this is the same reason Google is making it possible to use Android apps in Chrome OS (and even in Chrome browsers, albeit not fully fledged out there yet).
Microsoft is getting rid of every single other iteration of their OS. This means no Windows RT OS, no Windows Phone Specific OS, everything is going to be on the same build of Windows 10, and every piece of hardware that can support it will ostensibly get relatively fast upgrades. Aside from making it easier for users to share between devices, this means that their struggling app store will have a foothold in every possible location and may get more traction among the mainstream, leading to more app revenue share for them. Even the Xbox One will be able to run Windows 10 apps.
Flux is a small program that will apply a filter on your display based on the time of day and make the colors warmer. This is helpful at night (when your display isn't competing with any other light source) and makes your screen much more comfortable to look at.
tl;dr -- Gunnars for your monitor. And it's free.
This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Wireless-Interface-ES02-USB/dp/B01MQUANS8/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=remote+pc+power&qid=1619135039&sr=8-3
I believe Silverstone makes a PCIe version as well
For XBox controllers, you can get a single for $25-30 that uses 2.4 GHz and the same protocols that the Xbox uses. Also enables things like the audio pretty on the controller. Xbox controllers are not b bluetooh only, that's just the fallback.
Trigger pulled. Got this monitor as well.
Decided on 1440p max gaming instead of 4k for now. Better FPS especially if he's going to be streaming and playing at same time. Might get 4k monitor down the line.
Yes. Regardless of all the hate it gets, it's an improvement over Windows 7 and 8.1. The largest trouble is the whole forced upgrade shenanigans. Well, that and the update it pops up while you are playing games, but I disabled that. For that, follow this: http://superuser.com/questions/972038/how-to-get-rid-of-updates-are-available-message-in-windows-10
Spybot Anti-spy beacon for disabling telemetry and whatnot.
As nice as Win7 was, it has aged as WinXP when Win7 came out.
Sapphire R9 390 from Jet... 261.85 when using SHOP15 code and waive free return. and its Sapphire! ;) BUY ME HERE :)
Edit: Your Welcome /u/swimbikerunrun :) Enjoy!
WARNING WARNING WARNING. This should be stickied. Contrary to popular belief, not all 970's SLI together. I learned this the hard way. You need either the exact model or very similar (with same vBIOS version). See this FAQ entry for compatible EVGA models.
I had an EVGA FTW with a PNY blower style and failed hard. You will get a message in the NVidia Contol Panel that you are missing the SLI cable, though that is not the issue.
With that said, there is a workaround, albeit a nasty one. This is a driver hack that does work flawlessly, but forces you to use Windows driver testing mode and I imagine needing to go through the steps for each driver update. Also cleaning up from this if you go back to a clean driver is a registry key hunt PITA. HEED MY WARNING!
There's an exception to every rule. Your build style is your own and so are your experiences. But from a purely statistical stand point, name-brand PSU's stand up and hold out longer and more often than no-name cheap counter parts.
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0713R3Y6F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There you go. I was sure the "7200" in the title referred to the rpm but apparently that's just there for fun.
EVGA (Reference model for ease of finding a waterblock)
They explicitly allow you to remove the aircooler without voiding your warranty, so long as you put the aircooler back on if you RMA the card.
First get all your drivers and install those. Then run Disable Win Tracking to increase your privacy and uninstall bullshit windows store apps that are just bloat. Then use Ninite to mass install some commonly used applications. Then I recommend getting antivirus (either a free one or ESET NOD32) and ccleaner. Then install any other programs you want. Then uninstall Cortana if desired (you have to do some registry edits). Then run ccleaner to clean up your memory and registry.
clover: an extension/addon for windows explorer
allows you to run chrome-like "tabs" instead of seperate windows,
allows you to set bookmarks to any place on your drive and instantly go there with 1 click,
also uses chrome's shortcuts, like cntr+ n for new tab and cntr+w for closing a tab
what it looks like
this has improved my productivity significantly, without it....it takes ages to go to certain places
AOC G2590FX 1080p, TN panel, FreeSync but compatible with G-Sync
I've been using this for a solid 8 months now, it's quite nice.
Wrist rests for keyboard and mouse. I like my Glorious Gaming brand ones
There is a reasonable guide on how to do that here: http://www.howtogeek.com/97242/how-to-migrate-windows-7-to-a-solid-state-drive/
Though personally I would recommend doing a clean OS install on the SSD and re-installing the software you need. It really isn't as hard or as much hassle as you might think.
I recently built a computer with a $75 dollar 80GB SSD. It's the best choice I made for my computer. Here's what I do with it: I installed Win7, FireFox, Trillian-astra, Winamp, VLC player, Avast anti virus on it. This left me with about 30 gigs of space left on it. Every time I install a new game I install it to my SSD (C:) and play it from there. Load times are amazing etc... When I'm done with a game or decide I'm not gonna play it that much anymore (e.i. my non primary game at the time) I do something called an 'mklink"
Essentially an mklink is like creating a shortcut on your computer, but at a system level. So I move over the C:\Program Files\Currentgame directory to my F:\ drive (1TB) and create an mklink on the C:\ drive. The system still recognizes the folder as being in the C:\ drive, but in fact, takes up space only on the F:\ drive. That way you can install/use the games on the SSD and when you are done with them move them over to F:\ without having to uninstall. And the game will work the same without the SSD speeds once you do.
More info on mklink, changed my life!:
So you'd do something like this (in command prompt):
mklink /d "C:\Program Files\Starcraft II" 'F:\Program Files\Starcraft II"
Now it's still "there" in the C:\ drive but it takes up no space.
EDIT: to answer your question, absofuckinglutely.
EDIT2: 64GB and it was on sale, not 80 sorry.
I don't like to recommend QLC drives and here's an explanation on why by a redditor
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but even a simple game like minecraft isn't going to run well on a Conroe (Core2Duo) era celeron. Even with an SSD (the only way to make that machine usable, imo, would be to boot off an SSD), the machine won't have the horsepower.
If you added something like a GTX650 ($25 on ebay or /r/hardwareswap), or other older card that doesn't need a power connector and dropped in a "better" CPU like a Q6700 ($10 on ebay) ... it might be able to handle it. You'll also need 4GB or more of RAM to run even basic games.
And any cheap SSD like this will work fine - https://www.amazon.com/Lexar-NS100-Solid-State-Drive-240GB/dp/B07H6N13NF/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=240gb+ssd&qid=1561784500&s=gateway&sr=8-21
I've been using wireless for about 8 years now. My current connection speed on wireless is 0.5-1Mbps slower download than my wired connection. My ping is around 30-40 on games like Path of exile and Diablo 3 and ping is 12 on speedtest.net. I very rarely have any drops in my wireless connection. I live in a house. My access point is a Mac Airport Express dual band N and my wireless adapter is TP Link TL-WDN4800
Larger drives have marginally better performance than smaller drives of the same model, as you can see here:
The only time 2 drives will perform better than 1 is if you put them into a RAID 0 array, which is highly not recommended because if either drive fails then you lose all data from both of them.
A normal SATA drive like these I've recommend are perfectly suitable for 99% of applications, but if you are really trying to get more speed then you should look into an NMVe drive such as this: https://www.amazon.ae/dp/B07K1HMMJC/ref=twister_B07V2THYBV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Of course you'll need to have a motherboard with M.2 slots for a drive like this to work.
Using Ninite you can just select what you need and it'll automatically install them through their application. Aside from necessary drivers I would get the following:
Browsers: Chrome, Firefox
Security: Microsoft Essentials, Malwarebytes
Messaging: Skype, Discord (not on Ninite)
Media: VLC, foobar2000, Audacity, Handbrake. You may not need the last two but since I edit videos then it's handy.
Runtimes: Java 8
Developer Tools (may not be necessary): JDK x64 8, Eclipse, Putty
After you get your drivers and programs install I suggest making a clone of your drive because should you ever get a virus or malware that destroys your system, or you need a day 1 restart, you have the backup and you do not need to go through this tedious process again.
Chocolatey. Because it makes it easy for me to install all my other personal must-haves.
Here's my install script for new Windows computers, for example:
It's been awhile since I've updated it, but it's fairly complete.
I know you probably don't want to hear this, because I didn't either when I was looking for chairs, but you really have to just go in person and try them out for yourself. I've bought expensive, highly rated gaming chairs online that were so uncomfortable I could scream, and the chair I settled on after I sat in a bunch in person at OfficeMax (here it is on Amazon - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B012Y25EVQ/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d) was way cheaper, lower rated (at least in comparison to some others) but I absolutely love it. Everyone's comfortability is different.
NO. In fact, it doesn't even fully reset the OS and certain errors can persist.
I would never trust tools on the drive to erase a drive. By definition, it can't fully delete everything because it would otherwise delete itself. And even if file encryption was used, it's a good idea to overwrite everything before selling, especially if there's high-value data on the drive.
What I would do: Get DBAN and boot it from a USB stick. (only works with HDDs, not with SSDs), and then secure erase the entire drive with it. Afterwards, install Windows from a fresh installer stick, downloadable here: https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows10
I did a lot of research on 'gaming' chairs and finally convinced myself to just get a nice office chair instead.
I ended up with this and it's REALLY nice/comfortable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y8BXBX8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was a little apprehensive about it having a mesh seat since I often sit on my legs/feet, but this mesh is awesome and super comfortable no matter how I'm sitting.
Also it works great on hardwood floors, the wheels are super nice quality and smooth (doesn't leave any marks at all), but still stiff enough that you won't roll away from your desk if you put your feet up/lean back.
Bonus is that it has flip-up arms, which means you can slide it under desks really easy when not using it.
While I can’t help you diagnose over the internet, I don’t know why you didn’t just buy one of these . Would have saved you time and there would be no risk of breaking anything. Best of luck.
Dunno about triple arms...I'll be looking for those when the time comes and not sooner.
My dual arm mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MIBN71I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For most first-time builders, the basic recommendation should be:
Buy the biggest QLC SSD you can afford.
If you find that you need more storage down the line, then scrape together $100 and buy a WD Blue 4TB.
Your router also has a PSU. It looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVJ256D
It's possible that enough current to fry the motherboard went through the router but it's unlikely. Isn't your last mile underground and shielded anyway?
Classic Shell. It lets you change the look and functionality of the start menu. You can make it look as flashy or as minimalist as you want and it's extremely configurable.
Say hello to the old style program list!
The links are all the same.
File detection: https://www.av-comparatives.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/avc_fdt_201609_en.pdf
Windows Defender is dead last. However, context is kind of important since dead last still only means one percent were missed, with the best being only a tenth of that. That's 99% versus 99.9%.
Can't be bothered going through the rest. Point is that calling it "hot garbage" is, at best, disingenuous.
This is a useful comment.
Relying on renter's/homeowner's insurance to handle theft is not optimal. When it comes to thieves, deterrence is the optimal solution. For less than the cost of your deductible you can buy locks for your hardware and install a camera. Hell, you could probably afford a freaking GPS tracker service for less than the cost of an insurance deductible: https://www.amazon.com/LandAirSea-Waterproof-Magnetic-Personal-Location/dp/B06XVZ6Y4T?ref_=ws_cp_cdbd652a2f63111fc482_p_1_t_p
The point here is that the lazy way is not always the best way.
When you say Chicklet, do you mean the really short travel keyboard like laptops? Or just a generic keyboard?
If you're talking about the laptop type, check out the Microsoft Surface line of keyboards. https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-WS2-00025-Surface-Keyboard/dp/B01MQ0SB7Z
I think Logitech has one, too, but I can't remember what its called.
Some other appliance in the house is tying common to ground. Your common lead has too much amperage going through it, and some of the electricity is going back through the ground connector. It also seems the ground connector to the house is badly connected (probably just cheated and tied to the common in the fuse box), or floating (not connected at all). This will tell you if you don't like opening the walls. https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
There is a lot that's great about EVGA but the one big negative thing that I took note of them is that they are the king for having the stupidest fucking amount of variations for a card.
You do not <em>need</em> this many variations of a card.
Lots of people do this. It works fine. Google "Lego Computer Case" to see all sorts of awesome inspiration. It's not, however, cheap - unless you've got lots of lego kicking around already, anyways, that you don't mind dedicating for a case.
Grounding isn't a problem; all the components are very well grounded to the PSU through connectors (be it power connectors, and/or PCI slots). People like to get all worried about that here, but it's an absurd worry.
Heat isn't a problem, unless things go horribly wrong: say a fan fails, and for some reason the CPU doesn't throttle and hideously overheats, then while you're destroying the CPU you may also discolor/deform some lego. Just be sure you've got air flow through the case, of course, so you don't cook your gear. This has nothing to do with building materials, though, just case design.
How you will mount the motherboard: Adhesive motherboard standoffs. Stick them into the motherboard, peel off the backing, stick the motherboard to the case. Done. I use these in wooden cases/shelf computer systems regularly, and they're awesome.
Fan mounts? Some double sided foam tape or Technic shafts(those + cross section shafts) through the screw holes in the fan, holding the fan in position on the shafts with those couplers that slide tightly along the shafts.
Use the existing IO shield (if you care about that) and sandwich it in place between thin lego pieces.
> JBL LSR305
To save everyone a click, Amazon is telling me they're $350 for the pair. We just jumped out of "inexpensive" territory for most folks. So while we're here, if people are looking more in the $150/pair range, Creative T40's are awesome: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001S14DYO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
BenQ ZOWIE XL2411P 24 inch 144Hz eSports Gaming Monitor, 1080p, 1ms Response Time, Black eQualizer, Color Vibrance, Height Adjustable, Display Port, HDMI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H5KKQTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mInbBb7Q80941
Download RAMDisk here which is free up to 4GB, if you want to do a bigger one, you have to buy it.
Once that is done installing, you simply have to enter in the size you want (4092MB for example) and click "Create".
It will show up as a hard drive on your computer, and you can put installed games or whatever in there. It makes for very fast loading times. Its not super useful unless you have an excess of ram.
Terminator runs off of linux kernel 4.1.15, which we're approaching.
Current stable version is 4.1.2
The GPU is quite old and slow, it will not perform well in most modern games. (Maybe some at 720p).
However, it's still a great price, that 2nd gen(?) i5 + overclockable motherboard alone are worth more than $75. I'd suggest upgrading the GPU to something like an RX 570 which will turn this into a solid 1080p high settings gaming PC.
EDIT: BTW, that M.2 Crucial SSD is not directly compatible with this system, you would need to also purchase a PCIe Adapter card. Alternatively you could return it for the 2.5" model which is the same speed and similar price.
As someone who reinstalls windows about 2x a year, this checklist is exactly what I needed. 10/10 would recommend.
It does however, miss out my favourite tool on the planet: Ninite
I use Kasperky Internet Security 2015, which your list said impacts performance badly. The second site /u/jusu linked literally gave it an award for being the best consumer antivirus for not impacting performance. And from personal experience, I have it running right now and it's using 0% CPU and less than 100 MB of RAM. As for detection, the same site gives it top marks. Finally, I have not noticed particularly long updates. It does frequently tell me that it had trouble updating, and I have to go in and manually press the "get updates" button, whereupon it updates and doesn't give me any more trouble. All of this for $4 per PC protected per year. Throw in some common sense and you've got an all-around excellent security solution.
It's a safe browsing tool. Link.
Essentially it puts out a little green, yellow, or red circle next to google search results to give an indication of the maliciousness of the website
> PHOTOSHOP: this one is really broad, but it is a good skill to have. Photo editing, making your own wallpapers, dank memes, electronic art, pixel art, logos and custom icons, the list goes on and on.
Came here to say this, I've learned quite a bit of image manipulation by making shitty memes and funny pictures to send to friends. It takes a while and you need to google / watch youtube videos a lot but you will get there. Also if you don't want to buy the adobe suite, try GIMP and Inkscape which are less user friendly but also free.
Nightly, my computer uses rsync to clone everything under /home to my old machine next to it. It's intentionally nightly instead of real-time, because this helps me recover from user error. If I accidentally overwrite anything, I simply 'cp /mnt/yesterday/whatever/ /whatever/' to restore it. I previously used rsnapshot -- which lets you go back to any point in history -- but more often than not when I delete something I actually want it gone, and never found that I had to go back before "yesterday" to recover from user error.
About once a quarter, I rsync the whole thing to an external drive with full-disk-encryption, and store that in my car -- which protects against anything that might take out both computers in my house (flood, fire, theft).
Can't argue with that. I mean, here's a Core i5 with 16GB of RAM and a 2TB HDD for $299.22.
Windows 10 has a night mode wich is okay. Personally I use F.lux to reduce blue light and it's great. As the other guy said open your lights or maybe point some lights above and behind your monitors. Don't play in total dark it sucks for your eyes
try running anti-malware software too, just in case (Windows Defender is free and should be running), if not red flag. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/comprehensive-security
The other end was just flopping around?
No - you misunderstood. He didn't have an anti-static wristband that he forgot to ground... he wasn't wearing an anti-static wristband at all.
He was wearing one of those live-strong type bracelets
i think every1 knows what 90% of any1 buys
I'm guessing affiliate link abuse. The most recent Wayback Machine snapshot, taken on April 27th, has a message in the sidebar:
> Affiliate tags in links are allowed. We find this to be encouraging quality posting. If you wish a small percentage of your purchase value would go to a charity instead of our posters, replace the "tag=xxxxx" attribute of Amazon links with one of these approved charity tags before making your purchases: [censored]
The affiliate link shown may or may not benefit the charity that was linked.
TL;DR Probably affiliate link abuse.
As others have said - that is old. Assuming you cannot get a refund, the number one thing to do is get rid of the GT710 - that thing is awful. With the quality of the other parts in there, I wouldn't bother getting anything substantial because you'll just be bottlenecked (meaning you won't get the full functionality of a bigger card). A RX580 is a great budget card that'll play Fortnite and many other games just fine. If that doesn't fit in your budget, get a RX570 which will also suffice.
Here are some examples of cards from Amazon UK w/ free shipping
RX 580: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071CQ5LRV/?tag=pcp0f-21
RX 570: https://www.amazon.co.uk/XFX-Radeon-1286MHz-Graphics-RX-570P8DFD6/dp/B077VX31FZ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=RX+570&qid=1570738335&s=computers&sr=1-9
Don't feel bad. That company intentionally misled you and is the culprit.