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CPU-Z?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
100 reviews of this app found across Reddit:
You can also use a utility tool such as CPU-Z to find out the motherboard model number. That saves you from opening up the computer and go looking with a flashlight. Or from finding the box that you hopefully stored somewhere.
With a little effort I'm sure you can figure out what needs to be done, try visiting /r/buildapc.
If you download CPU-z from CPUID (https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html) that will tell you what you have for CPU, RAM, and GPU and from there anybody can tell you what you need to upgrade or whether you are better off buying a new system entirely if you want to avoid building yourself.
CPU-Z by CPUID is a popular tool to gather information about your system. I think a lot of people will have an older version somewhere on your drive. Yesterday, a flaw was disclosed allowing arbitrary memory read & write.
The version itself is quite old, but still, this might be a good idea to check if your diagnostics software is up to date.
Current version is 1.81, available here: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
I don’t believe there are any “fake” CPUs out there.
If it boots and identifies as an Intel xxxx or AMD xxxx, it is highly likely to be it.
If you’re asking if it’s been re-marked as a different model, you can read the correct info from CPU-Z in Windows or via the BIOS.
CPU's don't do audio. Usually it is onboard the motherboard if it has onboard sound. If you don't know what system/motherboard you have than download cpuz to see what the motherboard is.
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
Maybe this will brings you to your answer..
Here you go:
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
You may also find this useful, the memory settings are a bit confusing to read:
We can find it if you share your motherboard manufacturer, we can see what kind of bios it has and look it up in the docs for you.
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Do you know what motherboard you have? You can look it up with cpu-z https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
Unfortunately many RAM manufacturers do not guarantee modules, even with the same type marking, will be compatible if they're not bought as a single kit.
Most likely there's a compatibility issue. You can have a quick look with CPU-Z's SPD tab. Do the modules have exactly the same SPD parameters?
You might have turned off SMT (Simultaneous Multi Threading) in the BIOS. Go check in the BIOS.
Or it could be a case of the Task Manager being its old self and providing improper readings. You can cross check with CPU-Z.
Here is video on how to set it to run at the rated memory speed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zy6FSbpqtKU
Skip to 0:45 for BIOS setting to change
If you have already done that the ram is probably already running at their rated speeds. You can check ram speed via CPU-Z
Image example should show 1800MHz: https://puu.sh/H640b/19ac312422.png
By performance stats do you mean benchmark? A benchmark tests your pc to see how well it is preforming. A very popular one is user benchmark and you can download it here. If you meant you want to see your computer's specifications, you can do that by typing "dxdiag" into the windows search bar or you can download a program like CPUZ here.
> the charger was making some static noises and the computer wasn't going 100%
> an electrical hazard strapped to my back or resting next to my leg.
How are you using the laptop? Use it on a desk or it will get too hot and throttle itself, it may also make the power supply whine which I think you might be describing as static noises? Lid not closing right is a common fault on shitty designed laptops.
You should run GPU-Z and CPU-Z to ensure it's not overheating. Use notebookcheck before buying any laptop in the future.
Welcome to the strange and scary future of the year of 2008, where CPUs have something called turbo boost!
If you use a halfway useful tool like CPU-Z, it will also understand Turbo and show you the proper clock speed.
Apologies for the delayed response. Others have already given good advice, though I thought I'd answer anyway.
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>[...] how would I find this out?
If you already know your CPU model, you can look for it on the manufacturer's website; they are bound to have a list of specifications, including the number of supported memory channels. (Keep in mind that you can populate four DIMM slots on your motherboard, even if your CPU only supports two memory channels.)
Otherwise, you can use Task Manager or third party programs, such as CPU-Z to find your CPU model. (If you're on a Linux distribution, you can use terminal commands, such as "lscpu".)
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If your system is running stable and you don't have any intent to manually overclock your memory, there's pretty much no reason to upgrade your memory.
Odd. There is another way though. You can download CPU-Z and run it on the computer. It will tell you how many, what type and speed memory you have. Then you can search amazon or crucial for the memory with the same specs.
>My question is does the latency matter and if so is there a way to view this spec without taking the ram stick out of the mobo?
Yes, and yes.
Lower latency is better, but it will only matter if you match the specs of the one you have. If for example you already have a CAS 22 in there, adding a 19 will just run at 22. If however you have a 19 in there, adding a 22 will bring it down to 22.
Download a program called CPU-Z from here https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
Run it and you'll get a screen with various tabs, click on the memory tab, it will look like this, I've circled the one that shows CAS Latency.
The RAM Frequency (as you can see in my example) will probably say something like 1330, that's normal, because you're dealing with DDR Double Data Rate RAM. So 1330 x 2 = ~2666mhz.
It depends, but usually the differences are tiny (<10%) because motherboards will automatically use as much of the RAM as fast as possible. You can probably see how your RAM is being accessed using a utility like CPU-z
> Z390 Aorus Elite pro
https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_z390-aorus-elite_v3_e.pdf
Chapter 2, page 22/48
So: reboot your PC, and
>To access the BIOS Setup program, press the <Delete> key during the POST when the power is turned on
Page 27
XMP
Look for the 3200 ghz profile.
Click it/choose it.
Go to "Save and Exit", to save, and exit out of BIOS, do that, let it continue booting.
If you don't have something like CPU-z, get it to check and make sure it got set at 3200.
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
Free.
Have fun!
cpu-z will help you get some more info on the parts inside your pc. the biggest concern going to a 3080 will be your power supply. if its a pre-built, there is a good chance it's not a modular psu. so you want to make sure you A) have enough power to support a 3080 (750W recommended) and B) have the right cabling.
The exact model number is indeed written on the sticks themselves. You can use that model number to find out the specs of your current RAM.
Alternatively you can use CPU-Z which is capable of reading all this from within Windows : the "memory" tab shows the current RAM speed and timings, and the "SPD" tab show the model number, and the different profiles (JEDEC and XMP) of each RAM stick.
For $700, I think that's pretty good. I don't follow the laptop space much, but, I think the best alternative at that price is otherwise the mx150, which is much worse. The RAM is only a single stick. Upgrading it with another stick would improve gaming performance quite a bit.
If you want to upgrade memory (RAM), then you will need the same type, timings, voltage and chip type. You can find the current memory type, brand, model, and slot capacity by downloading CPU-Z. Once opened, under the SPD tab, you can find the brand and model number. Try to find another stick of the same model and specifications.
Since there is only a 256gb SSD, the Q&A section of newegg thankfully states that you can also add another SSD or HDD:
> Plus there is an open spot for a standard 2.5"drive.
Seems like a good laptop for the price. But you could upgrade it for about $100 to complete it, with the above.
Also check YouTube by laptop model or specs, and the games you wish to play, to confirm it'll run to your expectations.
And, check reviews regarding the model's screen/display, battery life, and whether it has overheating issues.
> And I'm not sure if it is installed properly.
Download CPU-Z, and look in CPU-Z under the "channel" line. It'll tell you if it's in single or dual channel.
>Everything is slower
Sounds like your OS drive is full or your Windows installation cluttered by lots of things.
You can do some cleanup (empty the drive, defrag it, disable programs on startup, run a malware check, etc...). You can also go with the nuclear option and simply re-install Windows from scratch. If you do that, I highly recommend getting a SSD to be the new boot drive.
Of course, it's also possible that you are getting overheating issues : check your CPU and GPU temperatures, in and out of games. But mostly in games.
Try grabbing GPU-Z and firing up the various throttling monitors. Then, when you hit the slowdown, check and see what (if anything) is throttling the GPU.
(Check you have a PCI-E 16x link for the card, too, since a slower link can indicate a problem with the card being misseated in the bus.)
Watching for throttling of the CPU is also worthwhile; I think CPU-Z offers that, though I use the Intel Extreme tuning utility for the purpose.
I'd also look, personally, at temperature and power supply issues, which can also cause throttling and slowdowns.
I can't say what, if any, of those might be influencing your experience, but they are fairly cheap to eliminate, and by removing them from consideration you can narrow the field of possible candidates.
(Oh, make sure you are updated past the version of the NVIDIA drivers that fixes the NVAPI resource leak, since that makes a heck of a mess of things.)
If you've got an Asus motherboard, look for DOCP, if you've got a Gigabyte motherboard look for EOCP. You can try the Memory Frequency option, just set it for 3200 and see if it works (although I'd likely try something a bit slower first, like 2933).
If you install CPUz you can find out the exact timings of your memory modules, write them down and just use those timings in the BIOS (manually overclocking the memory). It's not difficult.
XMP/DOCP/EOCP just does that for you, that's all.
Sounds like somewhere to steer clear of at all costs.
Download https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html and pull the motherboard model to get the correct drivers from the manufacturers site. You can also use that to check what RAM is actually in the PC.
Yes, definitely take out the 4GB stick of RAM. Next, look at the motherboard manual and move the 8GB sticks into the proper slots. Then, download CPU-Z and make sure that the memory is running in dual-channel. That gives a noticeable performance benefit.
I don't know the details, but the PoW function for CN is designed to be ASIC- and GPU-resistant by making it extremely memory-intensive. That means that your memory latency and bandwidth are likely the critical bottleneck, and the CPU is spending most of its time waiting for memory channels.
Those are both fairly recent CPUs, so I expect both use DDR3 with different clock rates, like 1333 vs. 1600 (PC3-10600 vs. 12800). But there are more variables than that, perhaps the 4790k machine does not have the fastest RAM that it can use or has the slots installed wrong so that it can't use dual-channel, or perhaps it has PC3-12800 with 11-11-11 timings (13.75 ns latency) while the 2600k machine has PC3-10600 with 7-7-7 timings (10.5 ns).
You can probably see and adjust ("overclock") the RAM settings in your BIOS setup, or you can use a tool like CPU-Z to see it from Windows. That will also let you compare L1/2/3 cache sizes, configurations, CPU and bus clock rates and multipliers, etc..
As for the cost of electricity, you really need to measure it at the wall with a kill-a-watt or similar to eliminate variables like PSU efficiency if you want to be sure how much it's going to cost you.
What frequency is your RAM running at? (You can use CPU-Z to check)
Both /u/Antamize and /u/scotto8888 are running at 3000+MHz.
It's possible that your main memory just can't feed your CPU fast enough. I saw considerable improvement when I overclocked mine from 2800 to 3100MHz.
Also, if you do not have an XMP profile enabled in your BIOS, it's possible that you're running it way slower than it is intended to be.
You could try to inquire about this issue on other places with people more qualified than me, since I just upgraded my ram due to reasons other than destiny 2, but noticed that it improved the performance a lot. Maybe you could fix it without upgraded ram, I really don't know
But if you decide to upgrade, remember to make sure that the new stick you buy has the samefrequency and cas latency as the one already in your rig
For example, my ram has a frequency of 3200mhz, and a cas latency of 21.
If you can, try to find the exact same stick of ram already in your rig.
You can check both freqency and cas latency using cpu-z
You're welcome 😁🙏 and glad you got it working. If you like you can download a software called cpu-z. It gather information on the main devices in your system like cpu, motherboard, gpu, ram, etc. So if you run into a problem next time and someone asks about the motherboard your using and or other hardware components you can use that software to let them know. You can just write down the name of the motherboard after you install it then delete it after since you know all the other components.
Here is the link CPU-Z
You can use CPU-Z to read the SPD memory on the module.
If you open the SPD-Tab and then look at the XMP profile (far right in the bottom table) then you have the max rated values for your memory.
In the Memory-Tab you can see the settings currently applied and running.
I would use CPU-Z to check if all the parts are working correctly
Next I would install Msi Afterburner. It has hardware monitors and you can check if the cpu and gpu are getting too hot during gaming.
If you have some new thermal paste I would take everything apart, clean, and reassemble the computer. Maybe there is something not seated correctly.
That's not normal, motherboards are not supposed to be able to run different sticks at different speeds/settings.
Most likely they are running at one or the other of the XMP profile, but not both at the same time. You can the current RAM speed in Windows with the Task Manager (Performance tab/ RAM section) though it's sometimes incorrect. You can also check with CPU-Z, which reports half the effective speed in the Memory ta (1600 for 3200, 1460-ish for 2933, etc...)
As for why the BIOS reports both speeds at the same time, I don't know. Can you post pictures of what the BIOS menus look like ? Possibly you're conflating different infos in different sections ?
>However I noticed that my Bios reads my ram as DDR4-2133? I’m not sure what that means exactly, but I’m just trying to make sure everything is optimized.
You need to enable the overclocking profile for the RAM (XMP/DOCP), for which the toggle is in the BIOS. Otherwise the motherboard runs the RAM at the default DDR4 speed, which is 2133MHz.
It's also possible that your motherboard reads the RAM at 2133MHz as in its "name", but in practice it's actually running at the right speed, if you've enabled XMP.
You can check that within Windows with programs like CPU-Z : the "memory" tab shows you half of the effective RAM speed (1600 for RAM running at 3200MHz)
There's way too many variables to troubleshoot something like this without more information. Download CPU-Z and once installed go to Tools(at the bottom)>Save report as HTML then upload it somewhere like google docs then post the link here.
The motherboard model will be printed somewhere on the motherboard itself.
You can also download CPU-Z and run the tool to find out what motherboard and BIOS version you have:
Download the tool by clicking on the "ZIP - ENGLISH" button along the left side.
Un-zip the the download and run the "cpuz_x64.exe" program.
When the tool opens, go the "Mainboard" tab and note the manufacturer, model, chipset, and BIOS brand/version/date.
Report on that information here.
instalate cpu-z es una aplicacion gratis que te dice las horas de uso y el estado del procesador
te dejo el link: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
You can use a tool like this to find out:
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
My goal is to direct you to the support page of the motherboard so you can download the latest chipset drivers and bios for the board.
1st .try to lower ram speeds to 2400mhz or 2600mhz and try a game or two and tell us if its stable.leave Timings @ auto.
bios version : download cpuz https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html and choose the mainboard tab to see which bios you got.
for win10 type in search: winver.exe that shows off your windows version
you got any issues on the event viewer?
btw did you also cleared cmos before resetting the bios?
>never hitting 90 degrees and staying on low 80s with balance mode.
CPU @ 90C peak on some specific game?
Could you run a stress benchmark from CPU-z please?
It will make cpu work 100% and you can use HW MONITOR to monitor peak cpu temperature on each cores.
My i5 can hit peak 94--96C on times when i run the benchmark and run a browser at the same time. Really stress the cooling out. I guess it passes the test considering it's an intel i5 not undervolted running at maximum capacity on laptop cooling :P
Legion still has better cooling than most other laptops in and above its price range :')
> its both the same speed dor multi and single
That's not normal.
In single-core there would be a... single square rendering the image and moving to the next chunk. In multi-core, you should have 12 squares working in parallel, since your processor has 6 cores and 12 threads.
What kind of temperature do you see for the CPU while running Cinebench ?
> and i already refreshed my gpu like you said
Did it change anything ?
You did uninstall drivers in Safe Mode, right ? And you re-installed new drivers later ?
>not to sure if i did the bios Xmp thing tho .
Download CPU-Z, and post back a screenshot of the "Memory" tab. It'll read the current RAM speed, though it reports half the effective speed (so you'd read 1600MHz if the RAM is indeed at 3200MHz).
Eso está mejor pero sigue extraño que no detecta un núcleo.
Que dice CPU-Z?
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
Podría ser que el CPU está dañado. Ojalá que no pero no tengo otra idea.
NZXT CAM isn't always reliable to check RAM speeds. What does CPU-Z reads ?
Check the "memory" tab, and note that it reports the base clockspeeds of the RAM, which is half the effective data rate, because of how DDR RAM works.
Also what CPU do you have in there ?
Okay, 2666 is easily supported by your CPU with four modules. Is the RAM all exactly the same? Have a look with CPU-Z's SPD tab.
You may have to fall back to running the system with each module by itself to see if you can isolate the problem to a specific defective module.
Something's not right, it's a laptop, it can't possibly have 8 slots. Try checking your Dell order info, it should tell you in the config section how many sticks you have. Or download CPU-Z and check under the SPD tab.
I think you'll be fine with performance. Download cpu-z and keep an eye on your temperatures. It's pretty lightweight and straightforward, so you could leave it up at all times.
That would mean that they're probably the same DIMM.
Depending on what kind of DIMM you have, there may be a sticker on it with the model number. Alternatively, you could use third party programs, such as CPU-Z, to check the model number (with CPU-Z open -> SPD -> Part Number).
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
Możesz zainstalować CPU-Z, jest w nim zakładka motherboard. Potem wejdź na stronę Asusa (to asustek to chyba ich marka-córka)
https://www.asus.com/support/Download-Center/
I wpisz model tej płyty. Po prawej powinien być link driver & utility. Po wybraniu systemu będą sterowniki w kategorii audio do ściągnięcia.
Jak nie znajdziesz to napisz tu model płyty to poszukam.
I recommend checking what speed your CPU is boosting while gaming you can check either via CPU-Z or Ryzen Master
I recommend verifying your RAM is indeed at a supported speed. Your CPU supports up to 3200. You can verify the current memory clock speed with CPU-Z's memory tab. CPU-Z lists the memory clock speed, clock speed x Double Data Rate = transfer rate. So DDR4-2133 runs at 1066 MHz, DDR4-3200 at 1600 MHz, etc.
Can you link your score with some other scores you're seeing that you think your system should match?
Also, can you post a screenshot of the "memory" tab from the CPU-Z program?
> was wondering if my GPU is defective.
If you're in the same ballpark as these other scores with similar hardware, then I would say no. There is most likely a more reasonable explanation.
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
While it won't give you any particular model, it will tell you a lot about your components. You'll get information about the most important things in your PC like CPU, GPU, memory and so on.
>Asus Ex-A320M Prime Gaming Plus
Yes. before swapping your current CPU with that Ryzen 3600, make sure your motherboard is running a BIOS Version 5214 or newer. To check the BIOS version, download a small program called CPU-Z, launch it, and click on the mainboard section.
Download CPU-Z and with it running go to the SPD tab and change the memory slot selection until some data comes up. That will tell you the exact part number of ram module(s) you have so you could buy the same one.
Edit: Also /r/buildapc would be a great place to ask anymore questions, they have a Simple Questions thread every day that you can just comment your question in and lots of people will be there to help. :)
Didn't go any higher than 36C?
Have you change the power profile in the control panel to power saving? (It should be on balanced). Because that is a seriously low temperature (unless your living in a ice box).
Another program for you. CPU-Z
This should show CPU core speed accurately. try running the CPU burner again with that open and see what Core Speed says and Multiplier. (in the CPU tab at the bottom).
At this stage, I'm running out of idea's to be honest.
So I use CPU-Z for basic diagnostic information. Among other useful things, this is going to identify exactly what motherboard you have installed. From there it is relatively elementary to google your board and get some tech specs on it.
You should be able to upgrade the GeForce 9800 GT to an RX 570. Put in an SSD and, I assume, upgrade your RAM to at least 8 GB.
You have an FX Processor from 2011 that was not very good in its time and is pretty questionable now. While it would serve as a bottleneck against more serious gaming, the good news is that Terrarria is not very demanding. The biggest use of the CPU is at world creation so it may take awhile for new worlds to generate when you start a game although I don't think that is a very big deal myself.
A RAM upgrade is going to let you load more mods comfortably. Generally mods only consume additional memory as you are loading more things into RAM to run at the same time. This is why I advise the RAM upgrade.
Moving from a 500 GB HDD to an SSD is just a quality of life upgrade that will make the system more responsive overall.
For the GPU upgrade I mentioned, the RX 570. You shouldn't specifically need this for Terraria but they are not very expensive (err, relatively speaking) and it will be an enormous boost compared to your current GPU that should allow you to play newer games. Your CPU will bottleneck you but you should still get acceptable results.
I would avoid doing the Windows 10 upgrade until you can get the additional RAM and the SSD in place. The computer will still function, even with Windows XP on it so there is no concern there but I wouldn't go to crazy downloading random things from the internet.
I guess it's possible it had the case branding, but it's far more likely it had the motherboard's branding. Normally such things are controlled with software for the motherboard. Post the brand and type of your motherboard and we can have a look. If you don't know this run CPU-Z and have a look on the Mainboard tab.
You need to make sure all your drivers are up to date. Not just downloaded but also installed.
Motherboard is more firmware than driver, I wouldn't worry about that yet since it's new and presumably already has the latest firmware loaded.
None of your components are above the 5th percentile. The GPU and SSD might be able to be written off due to other benchmark users overclocking, but you definitely have a problem.
I think the CPU drivers are the most likely culprit. Try installing them again, run CPU-Z, and post the results.
Its the default for ddr4 ram, as long as you put XMP on they will run at 3200mhz, you can check if it's running at 3200mhz in task manager on in CPU-Z.
In CPU-Z Dram frequency will show at 1600mhz for 3200mhz ram
>Okay, so to wrap it up.
1. Install the RAM on slot 2 and 4
2. Turn XMP on or A-XMP on MSI MBs
3. Done?
3 : check that the RAM speed has effectively changed to 3200MHz. Sometimes the Task Manager gets this wrong.
The BIOS - after a reboot - should indicate the current RAM speed at the top. Or you can use CPU-Z in Windows : the "memory" tab will tell you the current RAM speed. Note that it reports half the effective speed, so it'll read "1600MHz" if your RAM is effectively at 3200MHz.
>I should leave anything else on auto after turning on XMP right?
Yep. Unless you want to dive into manually overclocking your processor.
What is your current machine exactly ? Are you sure it uses DDR4 RAM ? the specs mentioned here (6GB stick, running at ...666MHz ? (333 x2)) really don't look like DDR4 to me.
Unless... It's a laptop where the RAM speed is dynamically adjusted downwards when needed ? But then the stick you have selected is desktop RAM.
What does the "summary" show ?
Better than Speccy, what does CPU-Z show, both in the "memory" and "SPD" tabs ?
If it's a store-bought computer, the make and model are usually printed somewhere on the machine itself. "Dell OptiPlex 3020" and "HP Pavilion dv6969" are examples of a computer's make and model.
If it's a machine you put together (or had someone put together for you) then the motherboard's information will be necessary. If opening the computer and reading the model number off the motherboard isn't an option, software like CPU-Z will tell you what you've got. (The ZIP version is the easiest to work with imo - just download it, open it, and run the EXE file inside it)
2nd generation Ryzen is absolutely going to limit your performance with an RTX 2080, especially with sub-optimal RAM configurations. These older titles lack decent multi-core CPU optimizations to the point where the lower IPC of that Ryzen part will certainly limit performance on a card that high-end.
Post a screenshot of the "memory" tab using CPU-Z to confirm your RAM configuration. There's a good chance it's not configured properly.
To complete what /u/JKaiChen said, you can use a tool like CPU-Z to know exactly what the specs of your current RAM stick is : generation (DDRx, though at 2133MHz it's likely DDR4), timing, voltage, etc...
In the "SPD" tab you'll even find the exact model number of the current RAM stick. If you find it for sale, that's ideal as far as compatibility goes. If you can't, you need a stick of matching generation, that's an absolute. Matching the timings/frequency is better, but not required and the motherboard would adjust by running both sticks at the lowest common denominator(s).
And if you want dual channelto work you have to get a stick of matching capacity with what you already have, so another 8GB.
> So if I’m following you, a game could use only 4 of the 16 threads on the CPU causing rivatuner to show 25% usage, but it could be holding the GPU back causing it to never reach 100% usage even if the game theoretically could utilize 100% of it?
Correct. As to what could be causing the seemingly low performance compared to what you should be getting, that's harder to figure out. Have you checked in a tool like CPU-Z that the RAM is actually at 3200MHz? CPU-Z and most other tools would report 3200Mhz as 1600MHz.
I think the Java version performs worse, but I think that's expected when render distance is quite high in either case. The Java version has a few mods that may improve performance, like Optifine, but the Microsoft store edition does not support mods. A new CPU is unlikely to help, since it should be reliant on single-core rather than multi-core performance, and the 8600k is more than sufficient in single-core. Maximizing the RAM speed to about 3200mhz might help a bit. Make sure that your RAM is also dual channel:
- If you have only 2 sticks of RAM, & more than 2 slots on the motherboard, then make sure they are installed one slot apart (e.g. visually slot #2 & slot #4). On the other h&, if you currently have only one stick in your PC, then another stick should improve performance & consistency. If buying new RAM to meet the pairing requirement of your board for performance, then the new RAM will need to at least be of the same DDR/DIMM type. However, due to other differences in timings, voltage & memory chips used, there may be incompatibility if those are also not the same. Speed (& usually capacity) is irrelevant, but all sticks will run at the speed of the slowest stick. For best compatibility, it's best to find the same RAM br&, model, & revision as the currently installed RAM. Download CPU-Z, & once opened, check the SPD tab for the br& & model number. If you cannot find a stick of the same br& or model, you could instead buy a pair of new RAM & replace the existing stick(s) currently in the PC, if you do not want to take the gamble on compatibility.
To be fair there was nothing WRONG with the CPU specs you posted, it's just that in order to really understand how well your computer performs we need specs on RAM as well as GPU. You should check out this free program called CPUZ, it's my go-to program for finding out what kind of hardware your computer has. It's also the easiest to use, easier than windows haha. Just double click the program and it shows you all your computers hardware in great detail: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
Are you sure your CPU is actually running at 5GHz? Run CPU-Z and see what it says for your clock speed, if it shows 3.8GHz then that's your current clock speed. If it shows 5GHz then that's your clock speed and you can ignore what Steam says.
CPU-Z under the mainboard tab will tell you what version you are on. Then go to the support page for your motherboard to check what latest BIOS is available.
So it could be a number of components. This is what I would try:
First off, do all the "usual" first steps in troubleshooting. Update Windows as much as your school allows, and Update all of your drivers (press win+r and type devmgmt.msc into the box, right click everything there and click update).
After all of that though:
Hard drive: defragment it. Probably not a great deal of success with this but something to do if you want to cover all bases. Windows has a built in tool for this (win+r and type dfrgui into the box)
RAM: First check what sticks are in use. If it has more than 1 stick, make sure they are similarly specced. Mismatched sticks can cause issues. CPU-Z is a great tool for this, under the memory tab. Check the frequency in particular: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
If there is only one stick or they are similar, try running a memory test on them to find out if the RAM is wearing out. Windows has a built in tool for this too (win+r and type mdsched), but I personally prefer Memtest86, assuming of course you're familiar with creating bootable media from disc images and booting from them: https://www.memtest86.com/
With all of the components, I would also say it may be possible to swap components with one of the other 3 machines until you find what is wrong. For example, swapping the RAM out, testing the machine for a while, and if it isn't slow anymore then the RAM is the issue, and you could replace accordingly. This assumes that you could have access to the slow machine and one of the faster machines without severe disruption, and that you have the time and patience to do something like that at all.
Anyways this is all I got, hope this helps :)
RAM speed isn't as important as some people make it out to be. Basically, your RAM will run at the speed of the lowest module you have installed. Buying the same speed you already have means you aren't paying for more chip than you are using.
There are basically 2 ways to see what you have.
1) Use something like CPU-z and see what speed your RAM is reporting.
2) Pull out one of the RAM chips. It should have a sticker on the side. If you are lucky, the RAM speed will be listed. If not, then it will have a serial or model number. You would then have to use that to look up the specs on the manufacturers website.
With that said, the performance difference is really only noticeable when you run benchmarks. It makes very little real world difference 99.9999% of the time.
You seem to be confused by mobile phone marketing terms.
Memory originally refers to RAM, not storage. A hard drive refers to storage, also called capacity or space.
Which are you referring to?
If you want to upgrade memory (RAM), then you will need to find how many slots you have available in your PC, the type of memory required by the slot, and if adding to additional memory, then the new memory needs to have the same timings and voltage, and preferably, memory chip type. You can find the current memory type, brand, model, and slot capacity by downloading CPU-Z. Once opened, under the SPD tab, check every memory channel to see which is occupied. Then, take a screenshot of one of the used memory channels, if it is the same as the others, otherwise take a screenshot of each. Upload the screenshot to imgur and post the links here.
If you refer to storage, then you can just add another SATA hard drive to the PC. The drive should be 7200 RPM, and of a 3.5" size. It can be installed inside the PC, so long as there is a hard drive bay/slot available. Screw it in, and connect a SATA data cable from the hard drive to the motherboard, and a SATA power cable from the power supply to the hard drive. You will need to purchase the SATA data cable separately if you do not already have one. Once installed, you'll need to initialize it in Windows to use it. Otherwise if you have a USB 3 port, or eSATA port, then you can get a compatible USB 3 or eSATA external hard drive. Aim for a WD Blue or Black drive, if not a Seagate drive. The Green drives are slower.
I don't know what to make of your video, it's very weird because the page lags but the mouse continues. (On my 2014 laptop it is smooth, so your computer shouldn't have these problems)
Definitely test out the on-board graphics to see if your GPU is causing problems, but I honestly have no idea what it is. It looks like your CPU is regularly being throttled, and it could be related to anything in your computer - so it will have to be a process of elimination.
Have you looked at your CPU temperatures and also downloaded cpu-z https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html to see your actual CPU clock speeds (which usually vary over time on a modern machine). Also what kind of thermal paste did you use when putting your CPU cooler on?
What Windows build do you have? There were some earlier ones that had a bug with Task Manager where it didn't report memory speeds correctly.
Try downloading CPU-Z. Look at the memory tab. Should say 800 MHz.
Your performance with this processor sounds lower than what I can find by quickly looking around.
What kind of temperature do you reach on the CPU and GPU under load ?
Can you check that your RAM is indeed in dual channel and check its frequency ? You can run CPU-Z and post a screenshot of the "Memory" tab.
Or you can even run Userbenchmark (close background applications first) and post back the link to the result page : this will on top of giving the full detail on your specs (including RAM) test your parts to see if they perform as they should.
Based on a quick search it seems that there is nothing worth reusing in that box. Ram, cpu socket, and storage would only work with very dated parts and the power supply is likely low quality. I would urge you to download and use cpu-z to verify my search is pulling up the correct specs.
If you are in the US a used system is likely a better deal than upgrading that system.
> fortnite as its the main one i play now, i run most things low, but the view distance at medium, so it should be running smoothly.
At what resolution ? I'm going to assume 1080p ?
If you were using the same settings previously with your GTX 1060, it's very likely that the old GPU wasn't your performance limit back then. So throwing more GPU horsepower at the game logically didn't improve performance.
You haven't answered : what kind of performance do you get ? Is it not enough ?
This would be different in other games, or if you played Fortnite at higher settings.
>i dont know what frequency of ram is
Please download CPU-Z, run it, and take a screenshot of the "Memory" tab and then upload it here.
>i also dont know that i have to uninstall drivers
It's not always required, but sometimes it's what you need to do if you're not getting the performance you'd hope for after a GPU upgrade.
But here - as I explained above - it's very likely that your performance didn't improve because the GPU wasn't what needed upgrading.
We still need the details of the rest of your system to actually try and help really.
CPU-Z is free, pretty much an industry standard app now, and will tell you your full CPU name, and on the memory tab it would be useful to be told how much ram you have, the DRAM Frequency and the "Channel #" setting at the top.
GPU Driver version? (right click the desktop, pull up the nvidia control pannel, and then get the version from help -> system information.
Motherboard, Operating system, any extra cards you have plugged in would be useful to just to save time asking later if there's nothing immediately obviously wrong.
(isn't it great when you're auto downvoted just for trying to help people)
Ok so there's a massive issue with your processor, which only goes up to 2.4GHz in that benchmark instead of 3.4-3.9GHz it's supposed to routinely reach.
My main guess is that your CPU is overheating, badly : did you ever check the temperatures ? If not, can you do that ? If you don't know how, start with HWMonitor and run something a bit intensive to see how high the temps go. The program record the max temps ever reached as long as you leave it open in the background.
Also, what cooler do you have on the processor ? Did you ever clean it ?
How is the airflow in the case ?
Also your RAM is slightly under performing, but that could be down to the CPU being far slower than it should.
Still, make sure that your two sticks are installed properly on the motherboard to run in dual channel. According to the manual of your MB, that should be in either slots 1 and 3, or slots 2 and 4 (counting from the CPU).
You can confirm with CPU-Z in the "Memory" tab that the RAM is in dual channel.
From a 30s second search, the motherboard in that prebuilt looks to be a perfectly standard micro-ATX board. So it would fit in any case that can fit that format of motherboards.
You can confirm by looking up the model number of your motherboard (should be written on it, and Speccy and CPU-Z would be able to read it).
In that case, I really recommend not to upgrade the motherboard, unless you have some specific needs that the current one doesn't meet.
It will bring no performance advantage, and it'll be money sinked since you won't be able to re-use it in the future anyway, as any ulterior CPU upgrade will also mean a new motherboard.
>so I dont really understand what you said lol.
Some prebuilt PCs (usually the small form factor "office" PCs) use motherboards with non-standard power connectors or mounting holes, which makes it impossible to mount them in standard "consumer" cases or to use them with standard power supplies.
Find out what motherboard you have and look it up. If it's built in the last four or so years and not a totally cheap piece of silicon etched with toilet paper, it'll be able to handle it. You can also just give me the model number and I'll let you know if you want. CPU-Z can usually pull this information for you without having to open it up.
For power, one supply can provide power to two cards as long as it has the connectors and the wattage. The capacity will be printed on a label on the PSU if you don't know. The 2080 uses ~280 watts at full load, so two of them would be ~560 watts. Depending on how old your CPU is it can use anywhere from 10 to 150 or more watts.
Generally speaking, for a standard system (1 CPU, 1-2 sticks of RAM, an HDD and SSD, a couple fans and misc. peripherals) with a single GPU you're looking at needing 400-500 watts. There are calculators out there that will add it all up (/u/admiralkit suggested PC Part Picker, which will do the job), or you can use something like a Kill-a-watt to measure the draw at the wall.
This would depend on the motherboard. It would need a reboot to apply.
The BIOS should be able to tell you the current RAM speed.
You can also check it inside Windows : the Task Manager can display it (though sometimes get it wrong) in the "Performance tab" in the RAM section.
More reliable is the reading from CPU-Z in the "Memory" tab. Be advised that it will read half the effective frequency.
So if your RAM is actually at 2666MHz, it'll read 1333MHz.
Oh, if you meant 2000PHP, that's $38 USD, not $380. What are you on Reddit now with, a phone or a PC? If you have a PC, your only option in your price point is upgrades. I checked Shopee.ph and prices are a lot more than in Vietnam, it's about 2000PHP for a Xeon 5450 quad core. If you have a socket 775 motherboard (Core 2 Duo or Pentium D, some P4s) you could buy the best socket 775 chip your motherboard can support. If you have an AMD machine that's about the same age there's similar chips in your price range.
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html If you don't know how to get access to your specs, this program will give you them. I'd say in your best bet is if you have a desktop, upgrade it part by part over a few months or a year. So buy a new CPU now, new RAM a month or two later, etc, etc, until it's all built. What's good about a PC when you're poor is you can upgrade it all slowly and in pieces, it's not like a game console where you need to have all the money at once to buy it.
However, if you have only a laptop, you might not be able to do much beyond upgrading the RAM, which may make it game better and will make usage easier/faster, but it can't work complete miracles like a new CPU or video card will for getting games to run.
Honestly your best bet in my opinion is to use a third party software.
I’ve used this software before (not for a while that’s why I forgot about it) and it tells speeds, ddr, etc. it’s a fairly small file size and you can easily uninstall it afterwards.
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html (Someone let me know if linking software is against subreddit rules)
Also, when someone much smarter than me comes along with a potentially much better answer, remember I was just trying to be helpful lol
What does CPU-Z see? Specifically on the SPD tab. Are the modules all identified as 8 GB? If not, then they're not 8 GB. Are they all dual rank? Your CPU can only work with dual rank 8 GB modules (I haven't seen any single rank 8 GB modules, but theoretically they can be made with the new 8 Gbit DDR3L chips currently sold).
Download and run CPU-z.
Click the "Mainboard" tab, write down the model/make of your motherboard.
Click the Memory tab. Write down the size and channel.
Click the SPD tab. Scroll through slot #1, #2 etc. Write down which are empty and which are not.
Reply to me here.
It's definitely something with your computer and not the network if you're getting single digit FPS. Have you recently done anything that might cause anything to overheat in your computer? You may be getting severe throttling somewhere. Download something like HWMONITOR and check the temperatures of your CPU(s), GPU(s), RAM, etc. Also download something like CPU-Z from the same group and check the speed of your CPU. If you're on an Nvidia card, and don't have a G-SYNC monitor, turn off DirectX 12 in the settings.
Install CPU-Z and check the exact model number of your laptop. Download link. If that’s the correct manual, then you have it, return your purchase and buy another 8GB stick clicked at 2400 MHz.
You most certainly do not have one terrabyte of RAM, and judging from that motherboard you're probably using a very first generation (Nehalem architecture) Core series chip; of those I'd bet your friend chose an i5 Lynnfield. That board does not support any CPU newer than Clarksdale, nor does it have SATA3 or PCIe3. Unlike Ivy Bridge, or even Sandy Bridge CPUs, that first gen has not aged well.
If I were you, I'd find out what your RAM situation is. Download CPU-Z and report back. You're probably going to want more RAM (you need DDR3), and as far as GPU, yours is positively obsolete. With that CPU/board combo, go absolutely no higher than a GTX 1060 6GB. In fact, you're probably better off getting a decent used card like a GTX 970.
Userbenchmark detected that your CPU ran at (at most) 3.05GHz during the benchmarks so I'd say the soft-lock on the CPU frequency is no longer there. It's weird however that the Task Manager is only reading sub 2GHz, though the Task Manager isn't the greatest tool to read clockspeed.
Can you try with CPU-Z or HWmonitor ? Both should be able to give readings of the CPU frequencies in real time.
The CPU background activity was really high when you ran the benchmarks however, which might have impaired the CPU score as well. If you were running a lot of things at the same time you can close them and try them again.
You can also check in game that there isn't a program running in the background with a high CPU usage.
The RAM score I have no specific answer. It's at 2133MHz as it should. And judging from the bandwidth result it appears to be correctly installed in dual channel. You can still check that : the RAM sticks must be exactly one slot apart : either in the 1st and 3rd slots or in the 2nd and 4th slots.
The SSD score I have no specific explanation for it. There's only a single M2 slot on that motherboard and it supports NVMe drives. This could also have been caused by the background activity.
More importantly, the chances that it actually impacts your gaming experience is close to none.
Last thought : Userbenchmark didn't detect your graphics card (or at least didn't display the result of the tests it ran on it).
Make sure its drivers are up to date, maybe your gaming performance issues comes from there only.
If you haven't already, do a clean re-installation of the drivers.
The 2 of 3 slots thing is most likely the benchmark tool misreading things. There are 2 16GB modules, so it is only using two slots. Just need to ensure they are in the right slots (different channels, often the same colored slots), so that they use dual mode not single mode. You can also use CPU-Z to check this.
The 1 TB SSD has a lot of free space on it, so should clone to a smaller drive no problem. Here's a primer: https://www.howtogeek.com/199068/how-to-upgrade-your-existing-hard-drive-in-under-an-hour/
Older firmware possibly a problem, just not as likely as the x2 vs x4 setting in BIOS. Some with 1B6QCXP7 seem to do just fine. YMMV.
The driver for NVMe is probably up-to-date via Windows Update. I suppose a Samsung driver could be outdated, and yes that could affect performance. Only raised the issue as I see some get better performance with one driver or the other, but I don't know which will work best for you.
Memory speed should have a negligible impact on wattage used compared with the 1080 Ti, for example. Test stability with XMP enabled and see. You can always disable it, or dial it down.
More info on XMP: https://www.anandtech.com/show/7364/memory-scaling-on-haswell/2
Okay, Please could you add screenshots of CPU Z memory tab, and SPD tab (selecting the slot(s) which your ram is in on the dropdown).
CPU Z is the go to software for this information, so if it still says something wrong there, it is possible that your bios needs to be reconfigured.
I definitely wouldn't trust the Task Manager reading for RAM speeds.
CPU-Z is a good tool if you want to check that quickly within Windows (it'll report half the speed, it's normal). Or run UB again.
Hopefully your motherboard has at least 4 SATA slots. It's easily checked too, just take a quick peek inside.
So that means that you can perfectly add a SSD and a second HDD while keeping the same motherboard.
Honestly I would recommend against changing the motherboard just for something like that. If you're running out of sata ports, replacing the current 1TB HDD by a 2TB one should do the trick.
If you changed the motherboard, you'd also have to potentially pay for a new Windows licence key, since your current activation is tied to the current motherboard.
As for the RAM, 2x8GB is better than 1x16GB, if your motherboard can take it. Because dual channel > single channel.
So
- Check how many RAM sticks you currently have
1 (bis) : check what kind of RAM you have exactly with CPU-Z in the "memory" tab. This will be helpful to get a matching stick - Check how many RAM slots there are on your motherboard.
- Check how many SATA ports there are on your motherboard.
Monitor the CPU voltage first at idle and then under load with prime 95. Download CPUZ. https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
It will give you your core voltage and cpu frequency. Check both of them under idle first and then under load for at least 45 min with prime 95 to see if your core clock is throttling any. Also if your vcore is above 1.3vc then I would suggest manually adjusting it so it doesnt go any higher than that and you also need to be using coretemp to monitor your core temps under load with prime95.
Not knowing what your core voltage or temps are could be dangerous if either are too high.
Your biggest bottleneck currently is the CPU.
What motherboard do you have? If you have a good enough motherboard that supports better CPUs, you can propably find a cheap used quad core i5 that will run the game very nicely.
Get a program called CPU-Z, gives you every piece of information about your system and it is very easy to use.
Here: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html Pick Setup - English.
It needs to be same type in regards, in DDR2, DDR4 etc.
Besides that, you're able to mix and match brands, frequencies, and timings but ALL your RAM will run at the speed of your slowest stick.
IE. if you have 1 stick of 2133mhz and by another stick of 3000mhz, they both will run at 2133mhz unless you're willing to overclock it.
To confirm what kind of RAM you have, download CPU-Z