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Ok, something is wrong here, you should be getting way better framerate.

So let's do the usual:

• Download DDU and run it in safe mode and make sure all boxes are ticked. This will clean sweap your GPU drivers. Restart so you get back into user mode after DDU has uninstalled the drivers successfully.

• Install the latest non-beta drivers from Nvidia's website then restart the PC.

• Go to Gaming settings in Windows 10 and disable GameBar.

• Run the game and it should be much better, if not:

• Go to the .exe of the game, right click it and go to Properties > Compatibility and make sure that "Disable fullscreen optimization" is checked (forces the game into proper fullscreen, otherwise it's in a hybrid fullscreen/borderless mode). Easy way to see that it's working is by changing the volume while ingame. If you don't get the volume slider overlay, it's working.

• Get MSI Afterburner so you can check how much resources are being used and how hot your hardware gets.

• If your CPU runs hot (hotter than 80 during load) you should re-apply thermal paste.

• If everything runs hot, make sure you have a good airflow in your case, open the side panel and run it (can be opened while it's on, won't get shocked)

• I don't think there's any real bottleneck in the system, but if that's the case it's definitely the RAM and CPU. The i5-3570 was bottlenecking the hell out of my RX 580 (on par with 1060) in most games, but the 4670K should do a better job. If all else fails, you'll want a new CPU.

This requires you to run two operating systems simultaneously on your PC. In order to do this, you need two individual graphics cards in your PC (any cheap GPU will do for your work screen), then you need to purchase a special virtualization software ($60), configure it correctly and reinstall your operating system twice (ideally on two separate hard drives or SSDs), which means you need another Windows license if you want both virtual machines to use Windows.

Linus Tech Tips did this a while ago, starting with two users per PC and then gradually increasing the number in follow up videos. Here's the first video with a detailed and easy to understand how-to guide:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuJYMCbIbPk

Note that this was three years ago, so the software and its settings may have changed since.

Your PC is powerful enough, but I would suggest at least doubling the amount of RAM, since just 4GB per operating system would be too little, especially on the gaming side.

This is a major undertaking that takes hours to properly set up and test, not to mention the time required to backup your data beforehand and install your software afterwards. There is no simple software you can just install and then two people can use the same PC.

https://www.userbenchmark.com/Software

tell him to run a benchmark test on this site and post it on this thread ,it would give a first glance on the problem ,it could be a bottleneck of some sort,the ddu is a possible solutions but we got little info to be sure,the hz on the monitor should only affect fps when vsync is on

You can use CPUID HWmonitor to monitor all the tempurature sensors in your computer. The Classic version is the free one.

Also GPU-Z will be able to show you more detailed information and monitoring of your GPU.

Not sure what you can use for the RGB control.

Note, you will need to have the same amount of space (or the amount of data that is on the HDD space free) on the SSD.

Cloning the drive will wipe any data off the drive your cloning to.

https://www.macrium.com/reflectfree

Use Macrium Reflect. It's the easiest free program to clone your operating system drive onto an SSD.

Make sure to clone the main drive and the System Reserved partition when cloning.

Then google 'How to enable Trim' this is important, because sometimes it's not enabled when you clone from a HDD to SSD, but for me I think Macrium Reflect enabled it on the SSD.

I had issues cloning so had to go a little longer route and backup my main drive and System reserved and then restore it to the SSD I bought.

Once you have cloned, make sure to test the SSD will load by disconnecting your HDD, then startup and see if it boots into windows. If it does, you can then connect the HDD again, go into the Bios/UEFI and change the SSD to the first boot drive, then load into windows and do what you want with the HDD, format it or keep it as a backup.

First should be updating Windows, since it'll probably be version 1909 or earlier (current version is 2004). After that's done, you can get motherboard drivers from the motherboard manufacturer's site (I can't find the exact make/model that comes with your prebuilt, not even Cyberpower says on their site lol). It'll be printed on the motherboard itself, you can just shine a phone flashlight in the window and it should be easy enough to spot. Whoever the manufacturer is, they all offer an updater that will automatically pick, download and install/update the relevant drivers which takes the guesswork out of that job. After that, you can use Ninite to install common software like Steam, Firefox, Discord and a lot of other things automatically, much faster than downloading and clicking through the installer on each one individually.

It's a crime that they are still making laptops with awful 1366x768 displays in this day and age. My cheap phone has a higher resolution.

Anyway, this tool should do the job:

https://www.flawlesswidescreen.org/

According to pcgamingwiki at least, which is a very reliable resource. Definitely go there the next time you're having an issue.

The minimum specs are only a HD3870 or a Geforce 8800GT, and a 560 is a few steps up from that. As long as the rest of your computer specs are higher than minimum I think a 560 would play it, just not at ultra settings on 1080p

Use DS4Windows. It lets you use the PS4 controller as an Xbox controller which greatly improves compatibility.

You can also use the touchpad for your mouse and map the buttons to keyboard keys letting you play some games that you would normally play with a keyboard and mouse with the controller.

edit: Forgot to mention that when using DS4Windows the buttons in game will show up as Xbox buttons.

Your software will work fine. Currently I use a PS3 controller to play The Witcher 3.

Though I really suggest you use the SCP driver package. I say this because MotionInJoy is very untrustworthy and is basically malware. Plus, SCP doesn't need any program running once you install it!

This link will provide details on how to uninstall your current software and install the new one.

http://emulation-general.wikia.com/wiki/SCP_Driver_Package

Ignore the "PCSX2 and PCSX-R" section unless you wish to use it for emulation as well!

If you decide to grab a PS4 controller then use DS4Windows. Which is the program you need if you have a ps4 controller. http://ds4windows.com/

The 2020M is actually a dual core mobile CPU from 2012 with integrated Intel HD (Ivy Bridge) graphics. http://www.notebookcheck.net/Intel-Pentium-2020M-Notebook-Processor.81880.0.html

Spore was released in 2008 so the 2.6GHz Pentium D with Intel 945 graphics is actually slower than your more modern 2.4GHz processor.

I think you will be fine but as ratuuft has pointed out there is a free trial. http://www.spore.com/trial

Firstly don't change anything with the device, if it still has warranty or support then contact the people you bought it from.

When you play games usually the PC works harder in most areas so it opens up several areas to investigate.

My first guess would be heat... anything in your PC could be over heating and shutting off... usually a great deal of heat onto the CPU will cause Blue Screens and restarts.

Go and download and application called HWMonitor

This is a free application that allows you to monitor heat in several areas.

It won't indicate what is hot but for a 5600x its too hot if it exceeds 85c

If you get stuck at any point then feel free to DM me.

While I'm not sure why it's not detecting it properly, more VRAM =/= more performance unless you're running out of VRAM in the first place (unlikely unless you're playing at higher resolutions than you really should be with a 1050 Ti). Running out of VRAM also has different kind of performance degradation, leading to a more stuttery feel, rather than just plain frame-rate loss.

That's not exactly a fool-proof site anyways. Download and open GPU-Z - if it says you have the right amount of VRAM, don't worry about what CanYouRunIt says.

chances are that PSU does not put out its rated wattage -

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48 bucks for an EVGA 80plus 500w psu if you can stretch it- never really want to skimp out on psus if possible even this evga is questionable for me - a psu failing if your lucky will only end up costing you the psu - but in reality psu failure can take alot of your hardware with it.

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=corsair+cx450&qid=1611981191&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Cheapest and most straight forward way is to get a really long ethernet cable and run it along the walls and ceiling to your stuff.

This should do it nicely. Amazon link here

Here's a cheaper option that will probably do the job, but it's lower quality cable. Amazon link here

EDIT: Keep in mind you probably want to measure out the distance and buy an appropriate cable. I just guessed 200ft.

Question:

Did it work before by just plugging into one socket?

If not, you might need a splitter like this basically you plug your headphones into the jack on that, and then plug the other 2 into your headphone and mic jacks on your pc

HDMI is digital, so it basically comes down to whether the signal makes it to the other end in one piece or not.

At that length, I can tell you from personal experience that one of those cheap cables you find on Amazon for ~$15 just isn't going to cut it. I picked one out that I think was 30 feet long and it couldn't even handle 1080p.

For 4K at that distance you're definitely going to want an active cable like this that gives the signal a little boost.

You seem to have a lot of stuff running in the background maybe..

CPU is under performing by 25%

Check msconfig and make sure there is not unneeded things being loaded on boot.

You can use something like this https://sourceforge.net/projects/hjt/ then paste in your results from the app to here: https://www.hijackthis.de and it will highlight running programs that may be causing harm.

But really your CPU is going to drag down any FPS. Any I5 or i7 will give you almost double the performance. or Ryzen.

If there's no way to remap it from the game settings you can use autohotkey and write a tiny script to send the Pause key when you press some other key.

https://autohotkey.com/board/topic/38793-how-do-i-reassign-the-pausebreak-key-on-my-keyb/

http://www.systemrequirementslab.com/cyri

Will be about the closest to what your looking for.

With that being said, "gaming" laptops aren't really recommended. I'd get a cheap laptop for portable use, and then spend the money on a gaming desktop. It will last longer, be more upgradeable, and cost much less in the long run.

I know this doesn't directly answer your question, but you can try this website. Just click 'View Requirements' after selecting the game you want to check and clicking 'Can I Run It?', there's no need to download a 3rd party software.

It's a bit of work trying to come up with/test a lot of games and then manually test each one, but it's the one that I found right off the bat.

https://winaero.com/disable-fullscreen-optimizations-windows-10/

Googled and this came up. Seems to be right. I was unaware that it actually got added to the Windows UI as an option now. I’ve always done it the per app way by right clicking the .exe of each game.

This seems to affect some people more than others, but personally I have always seen almost all my games run better with it off. I also have all the game bar stuff disabled too. There is a lot of discussion on it if you want to give it a google.

Thisis the standard program to use to see just about all the sensors on the motherboard. You can look up tutorials on how to check if it’s overheating and what to do.

Laptops are prone to overheating, which can cause your components to thermal throttle. This means it'll lower performance so it doesn't melt.

This might be why you're experiencing low frame rates.

Use a tool like hwinfo to monitor temperatures whilen gaming, if CPU or GPU is reaching high 80's then you have a problem.

Ok you play in windowed mode. It is probably putting it in the top left because you arent playing at your recording resolution like say the game is running in 1024x720 and your recording 1920x1080. That is why it is in the top left.

Edit: I found this it might help https://obsproject.com/forum/threads/problems-while-recording-gameplay.6103/

GOG does their best but Win10 can present some problems due to the ever changing nature of the current OS. Checkout the PCGamingWiki for Kingpin:LoC and Gangsters. Looks like there's some community patches and/or workarounds that may help you.

There's a tool that you can use to do that called Borderless Gaming. Its main purpose is to let you play games in windowed borderless mode even though they don't have that option, but there's also a tool you can use to hide the cursor.

I definitely agree with the people here, you should install all the latest updates you can and of course if you have them.

Then download HWMonitor and while playing compare the temperature, if some temperatures go too high, it would be advisable to download a program like Msi Afterburner where you can create different profiles and adjust the fan speed where you can maintain the temperature of the graphic on normal scale. (If the problem is with the temperature on the graphics card).

So I had this issue myself and managed to fix both things but it was effort. So to fix the download, you have to actually search up Forza Horizon 5 in the search bar and not try and download it off the main page. Once you've found it in the search bar and started downloading, it should work fine but the lost storage is more difficult. Basically the XBOX app refuses to give you permission to see into or edit the folder where the games live so you can't just delete them from there without some work. The Folder itself is called "WindowsApps" and the game is stored in there in a folder called "MSIXVC". I used a program called WinDirStat to find it but like I said their locked too, so I had to use another program called DropPermission which gives you the permissions to do whatever you want with that folder and then I deleted the game in there.

​

Hope this helps dude!

That computer was sold as NEW for 800 in october of 2012. That is such a rip off its not even funny.

http://camelcamelcamel.com/Gateway-DX4860-UR11P-Desktop-Black/product/B006WAQJFC

Do not under any circumstances buy that computer.

With DS4Windows for the games without native support or if you want touch pad support. It's been smooth sailing for me, both wired and Bluetooth. The only quirk is that you'll see controls for the Xbox controller in game.

I haven't played any retro games with my DS4, but if DS4Windows doesn't work, you can manually map all the buttons with [Xpadder](http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/xpadder_\ (last_freeware_version).html) I don't know if Bluetooth is supported, but it worked great with USB for me.

Xpadder is now a paid program but you can still grab the older freeware version, which is the one i linked. Note that you must run it in comparability mode for Windows 7 if you are on 8 or 10.

Edit: i don't have any other wireless controllers or keyboards, so can't comment on if it will conflict.

DS4 is currently not working 100% with Windows 10, there are some workarounds in place (ending and restarting explorer.exe process to enable the detection of the controller) but is not ideal. a new DS4 version has been released incorporating this fix http://ds4windows.com/

as for the xbox 360 these should be picked up by automatically windows if you have the wired version or the wireless adapter (i use the wireless adapter and have no issues with the xbox 360 controller on W10)

I've found this possible solution on pcgamingwiki:

Remove ™ in registry key

• Go to

  HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Wow6432Node\

• Find the EA GAMES folder and open The Sims 2. Change the Display Name, Deleting the ™ out.

• Before the entry should look like this : The Sims 2™ Ultimate Collection

• After it should say: The Sims 2 Ultimate Collection

Here's the article:

https://pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/Sims_2

I doubt it. That optimization / crash fixes is something that would have to be done on Bethesda's side; AFAIK it's not down to anything on Windows/Microsoft's side. And Bethesda hasn't even bothered taking GFWL out of the Steam version, although GOG now has a GFWL-free version.

According to PCGamingWiki, it seems the main problem isn't the OS, but that FO3 has issues with CPUs with more than two cores. That can be fixed with an .ini tweak. Not sure if the GOG version has this fix applied already or not.

And if all else fails, you could always try running FO3 through the New Vegas engine via the Tale of Two Wastelands mod.

DS4Windows does not support audio through the controller jack, and as far as I know never will.

There is a new branch of DS4Windows being developed by a different programmer since the original programmer has likely abandoned the project. The new branch has more features, is much more stable, and has better default analog curves. Not sure if there are any plans to add audio support though, or if it is even possible since Sony will never support the Dualshock controller as a PC device.

You can find the new branch and some info here: https://github.com/Ryochan7/DS4Windows

No worries. I think the real question is, what are you looking to get out of the CPU upgrade? With the GTX 750ti, while a decent if dated budget gaming card to be sure, it may be better to replace that in order to gain better gaming performance. The A8 you have now, while not all that, should be good enough to support an RX 480, GTX 1060, etc for some 1080p gaming on high settings at good frame rates. What you want to do is take a look at your system usage during your gaming session(s) with something like Afterburner. See what/where the bottleneck truly is and then go from there. No reason to blow money on a new CPU when the GPU is the problem (should that be the case).

Take a look at two things. First would be what is your bottleneck currently, CPU or GPU? Use something like MSI's Afterburner to see which is maxing out during game play. That will be your biggest determining factor. The other item to consider is what exact model of R9 200 series do you have? If it's a 280x or less, the 470 would give you a decent boost in GPU performance. If it's a 290 or better then the 470 would not add much.

What GPU ID? That doesn't have anything to change any type of settings, it is merely used as a tool to view your voltage and other info. You need a program that would allow you to overclock your gpu ( allows you to change settings on wattage, voltage, fan speeds etc...) however for you you'll only need to change the voltage a tad

This is the tool from Nvidia

This is the one from EVGA

And there are several others, but those two (I think) are the best and most widely used. If you're not sure how to change the settings (its fairly straight forward but) watch a youtube video guide on either one that gives details on what each thing does

I don't really stress test my computer but I do know a couple of programs to stress test both your CPU and GPU.

For CPU, you can use AIDA64 Extreme

For GPU, you can use FurMark

AIDA64 Extreme also has a GPU stress test but IIRC, FurMark gives better results.

check eventviewer. Use this to view the bluescreens. Maybe you see there the issue. Any Drivers Missing? All Drivers up to date ?

And pls give us your pc specs!!!

Since a crash dump was created, have you tried looking up the BSOD in WhoCrashed or BlueScreenView? That may give you a file/dll/driver behind the crash, which should give you more to go on.

https://www.hirensbootcd.org

(not affiliated just a fan)

this will boot from USB and allow you to do some basic repair stuff on the HD to get it work again ..or format it if that is what you need.

if you don't have access to a second PC to DL and install on USB you might need a friend.

>BIOS Date: 20161101

It looks like you are at least 5 revisions behind the current BIOS for your motherboard - the notes for these include things like "Improve DDR stability and compatibility", so they may certainly improve some things there.

>Corsair Vengeance LED DDR4 3000 C15 2x8GB
>
>2 of 4 slots used
>
>16GB DIMM DDR4 clocked @ 2133 MHz

You have DDR4 3000 MHz RAM running @ 2133. Let's leave it here until you get things to stop crashing, but you should bump this up, you're leaving some serious perf at the door.

Does it ever crash outside of a game?

I'd start with RAM stability testing boot to Memtest86+ (https://www.memtest.org/#downiso) and let it run for a couple hours. If get errors, then it's bad RAM.

I'd DDU your current GPU drivers then reinstall.

The two things that have caused that for me are 1. dying hard drive, and 2. bad NIC driver.

Test the hard drive with HDTune or SpinRite if you have it. Keep an eye on the SMART reports.

The NIC can be annoying to diagnose. I start with installing the latest Chipset drivers for the motherboard, restarting the computer, run CMD as admin, execute:

netsh advfirewall reset netsh int ip reset netsh int ipv6 reset netsh winsock reset ...then restart again.

If that fails, I remove the driver and try whatever Windows 10 installs automatically. If that fails, I try to find the latest driver from my manufacturer website, and see if there's a firmware update too. Then I look at settings, disabling just about anything that mentions "offload." Then I start looking at BIOS. Then adding a PCIe adapter. Then I die of old age.

Run User benchmark and post a link to the results.

Download and run CPUID HWmonitor as well and see what max temps your getting for CPU and GPU.

Typically if you feel the need to ask if it's getting too hot, then it's too hot.

Download something like Cam or CPUid and keep an eye on your temperatures under load when it's getting hot.

Between 60-70 c under load should be ok but that's kinda high for me. Anything over that and you may want to consider other cooling methods like a radiator.

something is up with your CPU -- as you can see from the benchmark is it severely underperforming. The GPU performed normally, so we can just focus on the CPU at the moment.

> Depending on the game my PC usually doesn't get to over heated

what software are you using to measure this? Can you run hwmonitor, play the game for a few minutes, and take a screenshot of the reported temps in hwmonitor software?

also the userbenchmark reported 43% background CPU usage. Kill any background/unneeded tasks from programs before starting the game. Your total cpu usage in task manager should fluctuate but remain under 10% after killing unneeded programs.

what are your computer specs? (run speccy if you don't know)

some things to look out for,

1) Monitor cpu and gpu temperatures with hwmonitor Make sure cpu is below 80 degrees celcius, and gpu below 90 at all times.

2) Make sure windows antivirus is running and up to date (e.g. https://support.hp.com/doc-images/441/c05435301.jpg)

3) Make sure there isn't background tasks hogging resources. Open task manager and monitor the high cpu tasks. Look for any task that is consuming at lot of cpu time or memory. Make sure those programs are necessary.

4) In task manager go to startup tab and disable any startup programs you don't need.

5) Occasional blue screens can be caused by bad / incompatible RAM. This one is tougher to diagnose. Did you build this pc yourself or is it prebuilt?

What games? What settings and resolution are you running them at?

Is this poor performance normal or did it just start happening recently?

And you should also use a program to monitor your temperatures while gaming to make sure that's not causing any problems. I usually use HWmonitor but there are plenty of other options out there.

But knowing what games/settings you're running at and whether this is normal or not is the first step to figuring out ways of dealing with it.

Sound like improper installation. did you apply thermal paste correctly (one thin layer is all that is needed)? did it come with a heatsink or did you use your older one?

Do you hear your CPU fan revving up? maybe look into use speedfan program to manually max out the CPU fan. Do the temperatures stay cool in that case?

http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

This is interesting. Your PC won't be stable with such low voltages. I don't think it is too common for motherboard sensors to fail, but it isn't outside the realm of possibilities.

Can you open the case when the computer is off and see if anything metal is shorting the motherboard or PSU cables?

If you can get into BIOS (usually by pressing delete during boot) there might be voltage monitoring there. See if it matches what AI Suite is telling you.

Maybe the PSU is dying. Can you get the friend you bought it from to swap out the PSU temporarily to see if that is the problem?

You can try another monitoring program like SpeedFan or HWMonitor too, but I bet they will say similar things.

https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/

Try running that and see what it shows up as.

Did you buy it new or used? even new, sometimes people return fake cards where they take the casing off the new card, put it on their old one and send it back.

See what GPU-Z shows, it should be able to read the card's specifications off of the graphics card.

Try running GPU-Z when your gaming and see what tempuratures your getting.

If the fans are revving to 100%, it means your set tempurature or the one the drivers want to keep the card at are being exceeded, or it's reaching a dangerous tempurature so the fans are going to 100% to cool.

This might be due to dust buildup in the cards fans/heatsink preventing the card from cooling.

First thing to do is update your graphics drivers. It could be caused by your graphics drivers crashing.

Download and run GPU-Z whilst gaming, keep an eye on your graphics card tempurature. It could be caused by overheating, possibly dust buildup.

Use GPU-Z. It should show you the exact model and its specs.

https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/

Compare the specs to this table:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GeForce_10_series#GeForce_10_(10xx)_series

This is copypasted from /r/pcgaming, which seems to be kind of bogged down. ;^)

No issues getting ver 1.06 to run in DOSBOX 0.74 in 64-bit Win10 (home ed). I utilized my retail CD (after blowing the dust off it) which had 1.06 on it. My DOSBOX config file settings I've posted to pastebin. If you use my settings ensure you change your drive setup at the bottom to reflect yours, my D:\dos directory is set to C and my DVDROM drive (K:) is set to D. I ran install.bat from the CD vice setup.exe. It took a bit for the install to complete but it did not fail. The initial screen upon running Quake complained about no music available due to no MSCDEX, but all the sound effects worked in game. You will want to play with the processor speed settings, playing on auto seemed a little quick, but it could be I am just out of practice. =O

The update file you want is q101-106.zip. View the text file for instruction on how to install.

Run HWInfo64 in the background whilst you are playing a game until you have one of the fps drops, then come back and tell me what your max cpu and gpu temperatures were.

Didn't go any higher than 36C?

Have you change the power profile in the control panel to power saving? (It should be on balanced). Because that is a seriously low temperature (unless your living in a ice box).

Another program for you. CPU-Z

This should show CPU core speed accurately. try running the CPU burner again with that open and see what Core Speed says and Multiplier. (in the CPU tab at the bottom).

At this stage, I'm running out of idea's to be honest.

It would be moke like facetiming an xbox server, but that's about the idea. I've got a friend working at Shadow computers and it seems to work great, as long as you have fiber/4G/5G internet

I use Vultr for hosting, their cheapest VPS plan with the DDOS mitigation addon is about $12.50/month. If you've got some Linux experience it's not very hard to set up at all, that plan has more than enough resources to handle a simple reverse proxy.

No, it's not. It is just the 9600k. Here is the link for it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HHLX1R8?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

Hey there, have you considered getting pci cards for those things? It would be a significantly cheaper and easier fix for your problem.

Something like this maybe that has both:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubit-Wireless-Bluetooth-MU-MIMO-Ultra-Low/dp/B07XM6XZ1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=pcie+wifi+bluetooth+card&qid=1621359193&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0QUFHNDFQQ1NWVEUmZW...

Edit: I didn't really answer your question, but no I do not think it is worth upgrading mobo just for that! It has expansion slots for a reason.

It really depends on what drive is in the enclosure. A few things to know, is it 5400rpm or 7200rpm, is it cmr or smr, what sata to usb controller is being used, these things just aren't advertised on most external drives. If you need to go external for some reason, get a decent enclosure, and invest in a 7200rpm cmr drive. I'll drop a few links for you to build a good external drive. However as someone else stated, an ssd is quite a bit faster, however much more expensive if you plan to keep several TB worth of games on your system at any given point.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UAA4J6G?tag=pcguideus-20 https://amzn.to/2FSgpW7

Xbox 360 can be connected wirelessly but you need a wireless receiver

My motherboard didnt come with wifi; however, i bought a PCIe wifi/bluetooth card on amazon. you can just plug that into the motherboard and save a usb slot!

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I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089FCX3C3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would highly recommend getting one of those Laptop cool pads to set your laptop on when gaming. It has helped my old Asus ROG laptop from 2013 a bunch in recent years.

Amazon.com: havit HV-F2056 15.6"-17" Laptop Cooler Cooling Pad - Slim Portable USB Powered (3 Fans), Black/Blue: Computers & Accessories

I wouldn't use the CPU cooler. Why not just get a Fan Hub? Here is a good one for $15.00

SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan Hub/Splitter for 4-Pin & 3-Pin Fans in Black SST-CPF04-USA (Newest Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4MDPHERMPXGQA4SPGYBG

Assuming that this is the case for all headphones you try in the 3.5mm jack? If so then this can be considered a common issue, it can sometimes be rectified by ensuring the cable inside the computer is routed away from everything else. If its a pre-built then that's not always possible and ground loop noise is common on these systems.

There is a solution though, you can negate ground loop noise entirely with a USB Sound Card

Or

Use an in-line ground loop isolator

Both of those products are examples there are many of this kind and all varying in quality but even the cheaper brands tend to help a lot with ground loop noise.

If you're certain that is the cause, you are likely experiencing the beginnings of some hardware failures. Could be a couple things

1. The HDD is requiring more power than usual due to a "fault" and the power hit on the PSU is causing system instability.
2. The PSU has an issue with providing properly rated/filtered power down the 12v rail and the power hit from the HDD is causing system instability.
3. Sometimes erroneous software issues can cause issues, difficult to diagnose without doing a fresh test installation with fresh drivers. Check device manager and ensure all drivers are installed.
4. Find CMD in the start-menu(right-click it and run as administrator), then type in sfc /scannow this will run the system file checker which will check for windows corruptions and attempt to repair them.

When I discovered these issues in the past there were things I could do to check the power delivery of the PSU i.e with a tester like this one, or using a multimeter. Both require a little knowledge on what to look for.

I'd make sure you've backed up your important data to an external device in any case.

in theory yes but you should consider another option. you should have a look at a cooler such as this one : https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Accelero-Efficient-VRM-Cooling-DCACO-V800001-GBA01/dp/B00HHMJIIO/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=GTX+970+Cooler&qid=1606838648&sr=8-11

Difficulty wise, it will be similar as replacing the existing fans, but it is more efficient as OEM designs are usually weak.

believe it or not but flex seal spray might be what you are looking for, just make sure to apply multiple clear coats https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Seal-Rubber-Sealant-Coating/dp/B00L3MDI0I

idk where you live, but here is a random one from the Netherlands.

Im not sure what your psu looks like but I think these might work: let me know if I'm wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/Replace-Supply-Upgrade-Replacement-Inspiron/dp/B00DC6TSUW

In the setup, it should list your adapter when you install the driver. If it isn't there, you either don't have Bluetooth or it isn't supported.

Please verify that you have Bluetooth first by going to Device Manager (right click My Computer -> Properties -> Device Manager). If you see Bluetooth on there, click the arrow and it should say something like "Bluetooth 4.0 LE". If you don't see Bluetooth or anything when you click the arrow, you don't have Bluetooth. If this is the case, this one on Amazon is cheap and works great.

Keep it clean, both software and hardware wise. Dust is a bitch and it can cause thermal issues. Since you have a laptop you should at least air dust it maybe twice a month, by taking out the bottom and air blowing the heat sinks and fans (DONT LET THEM SPIN too much, hold them down or tape them down when air dusting them).

I have a can-less air duster from amazon this (https://www.amazon.com/EasyGo-CompuCleaner-Electronic-Alternative-Compressed/dp/B00S7CH6FK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511903628&sr=8-5&keywords=canless+air+duster) bit pricey but worth it.

No need for antivirus, windows defender is super solid, just use your common sense when it comes to navigating the internet and downloading programs, it will remind you to run a system scan if you have not done one in a while. Furthermore, malewarebytes is a great addition that can help keep your system clean. I also use CCleaner to clean out my browsing history and cookies.

Keep the system cool, gaming laptops have come a long ways now, but they still can get a bit toasty especially during long gaming sessions. Any chill pad that directly feed air into the intakes should do a good job of keeping your laptop chill.

When downloading a new game, make sure you have the latest graphics drivers, nvidia tend send out their newest drivers whenever there is a big game being released.

Just search for hdmi to vga adapter on Ebay or Amazon. They are only a few dollars. If you need sound make sure you get one with a separate sound output ( usually a 3.5mm jack). Here is an example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS611LJ?aaxitk=DBNyLhsaKosc.g0WZAmDtA

Edit spelling. Thank you u/commonmisspellingbot

I have played on a few Acer, AOC, and Asus monitors that are around 2-3ms, and I can't see that much of a difference.

I found this one on Amazon for $150, and it has Freesync.

AOC G2460VQ6 24” Gaming Monitor, FreeSync, FHD (1920x1080), TN Panel, 75Hz, 1ms, DisplayPort, HDMI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1YCKAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bZXcCb1QBA0AQ

I looked around a bit at Amazon Australia and it seems like the best laptop they have for under $2000 is this one:

https://www.amazon.com.au/Lenovo-Legion-Y520-Gaming-Laptop/dp/B077QXGF6R/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1544366370&sr=8-6

It's one of few laptops within your budget that has a matte IPS screen, which is pretty important in my eyes, since you won't always have the perfect seating position with a laptop. IPS screens offer far better viewing angles and colors than the more common TN panels and since the screen is matte, you do not have to worry about light reflecting off the screen.

This device has a better CPU than its competition and an SSD. I would prefer a larger SSD than 256GB, but this is luckily something you can easily upgrade, if necessary. It also has the 6GB version of the GTX 1060, a powerful and future-proof GPU that can run the vast majority of titles at maximum settings and 1080p while maintaining 60fps. It should last for many years to come and is fully VR-ready, if you want to get into that at some point (consider WMR headsets, which are cheap, high-res and easy to set up). There is enough CPU-power and the amount of RAM is sufficient as well, for now at least.

Note that just like with most other gaming laptops, battery life is very limited at just around two hours.

Reviews of this device are positive, although most reviewers appear to have looked at a version of it with a less powerful GPU.

One thing I have to mention is that you should always play in a cool, well-ventilated room on a flat surface. Gaming laptops need all the cooling they can get and are very susceptible to damage from overheating, so pay attention and keep the cooling vents clean and unobstructed at all times.

How it goes with the xbox 360 controllers, is that there is only two ways of connecting to the PC:

1.) Directly connected with a controller with the cable built in, not any of the controllers with batteries or battery packs. The Play and Charge cable is only for charging your controller(s)' and/or playing directly connected to a xbox360. But not supported for PC play.

2.) A specific wireless dongle that will allow your wireless controllers to connect wirelessly to your computer.

The links are only to Amazon, and there will definitely be better deals to be found. Hopefully this helps out. Good Luck, Have Fun.

While I’m not 100% familiar with that model, I did look it up and it only has a single jack. So while that would work for Xbox/ps4/switch it doesn’t do much for your pc as it has two different ports for input and output. You would need an audio splitter, basically something that changes it to 1 plug into two plugs. I’m bad at explaining so here’s a link to an audio splitter. audio splitter

https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-1286MHz-Graphics-RX-570P8DFD6/dp/B077VX31FZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=rx570&qid=1599254897&sr=8-3

An rx570 sounds about perfect for your needs - it's not gonna run AAA titles at 4k but you can play most games happily at 1080p. Plus it's pretty cheap!

EDIT: double check your PSU and make sure it's up to the task for a dedicated gpu!

1) I would think it's fine, doesn't hurt to have fans blowing on the GPU anyway.

2) Should be fine, but you might want to consult your motherboard manual to be sure. - Worse case get something like this Powered Fan Header. It lets you plug in fans to it, and uses a SATA power cord to power it. You then plug a control fan header into your motherboard for the PWM signal.

If all you want to do is connect headphones or speaker to your PC, and the PC has no sound chip (i.e. it's dead), you can pretty much use something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+audio&qid=1595808556&sr=8-3 and it'll work fine. Just check it has the audio port you require.

I bought something that cheap to replace a dead audio chip in a Macbook. Plugged the linked USB adapter in and it worked fine.

There is a downside to going that cheap, though. That is sound quality. If you're going to use some decent headphones, you'd need a decent audio codec if your built-in one is dead. The built-in audio on motherboards is usually good enough, but if it's actually dead, you'll need an external one. I use the FiiO E10k USB DAC with my Beyerdynamic headphones. It sounds awesome.

I'd first check the rear port though. Chances are the audio codec is not dead and it's just an issue with the front panel audio jack.

You can use ddr4-pc4 19200 2400mhz ram for this machine according to mrmemory. You can use any ram stick of this type.

I'd recommend crucial...people will shout at me and say 'NoooOOoOoo YoU NeEd To SpEnD a sQuiLliOn QuId on Corsair ram' but meh, 30 quid is better than 90 quid.

here's a 30 quid 8gb stick that should be compatible.

However bear the following in mind:

• this link is for desktop ram. If you have a laptop and order desktop ram it's not my fault.

• if you open up your pc and introduce a static charge it's not my fault.

• if it turns out to the the wrong MHz band, i just used Google to find out the info, so it's not my fault, it's Google's.

All that aside, have fun!

Yah... this is your easiest wireless solution. I guess if u use steam? Might work with other games. Plug this into your tv and you will be able to play the games from your computer over your network.https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

The 3700x can be found here for $280 and the RTX 2070 I'm not sure how much it goes for in the Us but in the UK you can get them for around £400. You would still need to buy a motherboard, case, RAM and storage though so it might be a bit too much on your budget.

Leave it with me and I'll have a look around to see if I can find something more in your price range.

My vote goes to PureVPN. Lots of servers around the world, supports pretty much every protocol you can think of. Specialty servers for getting around specific site blocks too like Hulu, and Netflix. Also they have 24/7 live chat support on their site if you have an issue, I've used that a couple times. Right now they have a sale, 2 years for $3.25/month. And, they take payment pretty much every way possible, credit cards, crypto (bitcoin and a whole lot of others) and gift cards too from a lot of places.

Honestly the CPU is probably damaged and some of the pins on the motherboard look kinda funky. A bad mount can give memory issues like this

You could try this https://www.amazon.com/CHEUKCHI-LGA17XX-BCF-Generation-Correction-Substitute/dp/B09ZY6TYSV but it kinda looks like the damage has been done on this one

I have this same issue. The new HITMAN game in non-exclusive fullscreen doesn't want to be detected by ShadowPlay without enabling desktop capture. My primary display is at 144hz and my secondary display*s* are at 60hz. So "crazy" is an understatement: (144%60)/60 = 40%.

And streaming (e.g. Twitch) does not work at all with that configuration. The overlay shows a red slash through the icon, only going away for a moment as it fails to initializing broadcasting (which often lags the hell out of my computer for a few seconds).

OBS (open broadcaster software) works fine for me, which has much more powerful configurability than ShadowPlay. I think it is even utilizing the hardware-level stuff that GeForce uses.

Probably because its a different country. Here is an Amazon link except than in my country (Ireland) you can pick up very good quality second hand ones for about €50. I got one that had never been used. Even if they have been used these are server grade parts certified for twice the operating hours of consumer grade.

https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-PM983-MZ1LB960HAJQ-Internal-Express/dp/B07SK9LG1S

This is the ram I have:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086XDTZCS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

What I think is that, maybe, VRMs in the motherboard are not capable to give power to both GPU and CPU. So rather than faulty it's just incapable for that load.

Something to keep in mind is that typically benchmark videos are using other higher-end components. I noticed you have Ryzen 5 4500, not a bad CPU but they could be running a much newer and faster CPU in that video.

Also you have a single 8GB 3000mhz stick of RAM. You should aim for 16Gb 3200Mhz (2x8GB) if possible. Something like this would be a great upgrade.

Assuming there's no faulty hardware or bad software issues at play, then I would point out the obvious botteneck in your system, the i7-6800k. It's an older gen CPU at this point and is likely just not keeping up with your 3080. It wouldn't matter how beefy your GPU is if it's constantly held back by your CPU.

I might recommend an upgrade path for your CPU. If you're just primarily gaming, take a look at the i5 13600k, its a remarkable CPU that capable of gaming and even multi-core heavy loads. If you require something more, the i7 13700k or even the slightly older 12600k would be a solid choice.

Just keep in mind a new motherboard would be required alongside the CPU, just factor in that cost. Something else to note is that there are DDR4 and DDR5 versions of motherboads for the 12th and 13th gen CPUs. Just stick to the DDR4 versions if you want to use your same RAM.

But my personal recommendation would be thei5-13600k and some DDR4 Z690 mobo like this one. (choose a WIFI variant if that's important to you)

You can use a program like CPU-Z to get the exact type of RAM installed, and then just search for deals on that. If it's really 2666Mhz DDR4, then you have lots of options like this Corsair kit from Amazon.

But it's an older laptop that won't get much of a boost going 16 to 32gb. If I were you, I'd put that money in the piggy bank for your next PC.

The Steam client has a built in backup feature, just look through the menu's. For the rest, check out this article: http://www.howtogeek.com/167857/4-ways-to-back-up-your-pc-game-saves/ Game save Manager works great with Dropbox,BTW.

UPDATE: Fixed it with help found in this thread

http://www.gamefaqs.com/boards/927129-star-wars-battlefront-ii/40896941

> 1. Go to START. > > 2. Go to CONTROL PANEL. > > 3. Go to HARDWARE AND SOUND. > > 4. Click on SOUND. > > 5. Under the RECORDING tab, right click on STEREO MIX and choose ENABLE. > > 6. Start SWBFII. > > 7. Go under OPTIONS/AUDIO. > > 8. Go to the STEREO MIX thingy and scroll to [and select] SOFTWARE. > > P.S. You just MIGHT need to turn the effects ON.

I am using this one. Yes, it's USB, but I don't use it for singing etc., so I don't need the best. Headphones on the other hand...

Digital or USB headphones are just headphones with a built in sound card. And that sound card is just cheap. That's why you want to avoid it.

Amplifier or Audio Inferface + Headphones is in IMO the way to go.

My old 20€ headphones with an okish soundcard had better quality than my 150€ headset.

USB is the worst you can pick for audio. Never buy headsets, you get so much better for that price. Buy a beyerdynamic headphone and some 30€ mic and you are good to go.

XLR -> Cinch

beyerdynamic DT 990 PRO

The only "downside" is, that you need an amplifier or an audio interface.

They make things like what you are talking about, but I have no idea what the latency would be. I would assume "not good."

https://www.amazon.com/IOGear-Wireless-Adapter-GUWH204KIT-Grey/dp/B0026M9Y2K/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

But for what you are specifically wanting to do, I don't think it is really possible (or necessary?). The USB device also has to receive power somehow, not just connection. I would also worry about interference.

and, as a last resort, you might just buy a desktop audio DAC to bypass the port altogether, something like https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=JL06377T2OIY&keywords=fiio+audio+dac&qid=1664420783&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjQyIiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=fiio+audio+dac%2Ca...

it may even make your audio sound a little crisper, especially on larger headphones.