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/r/AMDHelp's
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/AMDHelp:
![VESA Certified DisplayPort Cable, iVANKY 6.6ft DP Cable 1.2,[4K@60Hz, 2K@165Hz, 2K@144Hz], Gold-Plated Braided High Speed Display Port Cable 144Hz, for Gaming Monitor, Graphics Card, TV, PC, Laptop](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41TxNDSSowL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/AMDHelp:
HWiNFO (32/64)
OCCT
GPU-Z
CPU-Z
Microsoft OneDrive
ShutUp10
Pangoly
HWMonitor
Core Temp
MSI Afterburner
PassMark CPU Benchmarks
FanControl by Rem0o
Medal.tv
HandBrake
Driver Store Explorer
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/AMDHelp:
The most popular reviews in /r/AMDHelp:
that shits broke bud, the fans are pressed on. you might be able to glue them back in place or something but you should just replace them https://www.amazon.com/CF1015H12D-Graphics-Cooler-Sapphire-Nitro/dp/B07Y3ZT6G5
If it is your cooler, and you have an Amazon account, add this into your Amazon wishlist.
If you PM me the link and give me a few days, I can get that for you if you really need a cooler and can't afford one right now.
Where are you checking that speed? Cpuz/taskmanager probably right? Dont look at that, thats just the discrete clock speed/ratio the cpu is running at.
Download ryzen master or hwinfo to check the effective clockspeeds.
You can read more here:
https://www.hwinfo.com/forum/threads/effective-clock-vs-instant-discrete-clock.5958/
I think if you're still having problems a little spray of Deoxit should lubricate the plastic well enough to get it off, and is safe for the contacts. You don't need to get it from amazon most hardware stores carry it. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU?th=1
I am not undervolting anything.
Believe me I am an expert with hardware and know what is a bios option.
Problem is latest OCCT and HWiNFO.
We are in contact with HWiNFO developer and so far everything is good.
Please follow below link for you information.
don't worry about the speccy one, it's borked with ryzen. use hwinfo https://www.hwinfo.com/download/
tho i will say that the ryzen master one seems weirdly low to me with the stock cooler? maybe i'm wrong, but my ryzen 5 would get pretty hot before i installed an after market air cooler, and still gets to 65c or so under load with a 212 evo. But i wouldn't worry about it either way i guess.
Look at your motherboard’s QVL to find your memory modules and supported configurations.
If you can’t find them then that may be the issue. Ryzen is extremely picky about memory and it is also extremely picky when it comes to supported configurations. The higher the memory capacity (and you’re running 64 GB which is quite high), typically the lower the speed it would run. 3200 MT/s is the maximum supported speed your processor is capable of running only in certain configurations. You may need to drop the speed below 3200 to see if it works, 3000, 2933 etc.
Aside from that, ensure your BIOS is updated as this can definitely help.
Sure!
Get the Phoronix test suite: http://www.phoronix-test-suite.com/?k=downloads
Run any of the tests you want - the test suite will install the required software. I haven't had much luck with the Steam-based ones, but the uniengine benchmarks (Valley, Heaven, Tropics) work well.
As part of the process, the benchmark will save results to openbenchmarking.org. When that happens, paste the URL here.
That's it!
It looks like this gpu sag bracket
upHere Graphics Card GPU Brace Support Video Card Sag Holder/Holster Bracket, Anodized Aerospace Aluminum, Single or Dual Slot Cards Black (G205) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HSVSLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XPiqFbBBTHP56
I just dealt with this a few nights ago with Phanteks RGB strips. Mystic Light is a cell phone app, not a windows program. It's stupid because they don't make that clear at all... Anyway, the app doesn't connect to my B350 Tomahawk Arctic, so I don't know why they even advertise for it. What you're looking for is the MSI Gaming App, which is installed on you PC, and you can also install a remote controller app on your android phone. If your mobo is anything like mine, you'll only get a few different color options, but it should do the trick.
Mind you, this is how I set up my RGB strips, I have an R5 1600 so I have not set up the RGB stock cooler from the R7s.
Here's a link to download the Windows software.
And here's the link for the android app.
Hope this helps!
I checked the Be Quiet Power supply calculator and I can say its deffinetly more than fine. With how much you upgraded you will almost deffinetly have to reinstall windows im afraid. The game crashes because the drivers of your old system are clashing with the new drivers I guess. But if you have your programms on say a 1tb harddrive and windows on your ssd you will only have to wipe the ssd. So you only have to wipe the drive with windows on it not the other drives you have. Also Ninte can help speed up the installing of some programms . Hope that helps.
It is very strange that your drivers are not working. By default Ubuntu ships with the open source Mesa driver which should be working for you. For reference, I've had 16.04 work out of the box on an e350 APU, A4-5000, A10-7970, a dedicated 7970 GPU, and a dedicated R9 290X.
Drivers in Linux can get a little complex. There are two types of drivers, closed and open source.
The open source implementation is all under Mesa, and there are 3 versions. R600 for the 6xxx Series and previous, Radeon for GCN 1.0-1.1(7xxx - R9 3xx, and AMDGPU for GCN 1.2+(Fury and beyond). There are multiple versions of Mesa available as well, and the one that ships with 16.04 is quite out of date. I recommend using the padoka PPA to keep up with the latest version. It can be found here
There are two closed source drivers. The deprecated Catalyst drivers ended at version 15.12 and Ubuntu ended support at 15.10. It does not support them from 16.04 onward. There is also the AMDGPU-PRO driver which can be found here. However, I can't say with confidence if your GPU is supported by them until I know a bit more. You also shouldn't need them to have display working OOTB.
Before you try and use either of the above please run the following 3 commands and reply with the output so I can better assist you. They will give me a lot more info about your specific setup.
glxinfo -B lspci -k | grep -iEA3 '3d|vga' sudo lshw -C display
It could be that there are some "junk" (Temp files) or previous installer files (C:\AMD) that causing this issue.
Troubleshooting:
- Create a Win 10 restore point.
- Clean out the junk files http://download.cnet.com/blog/download-blog/clean-out-junk-files-in-windows-7-8-1-and-10/
- Press Windows+R key and type temp (do it again for %temp%, Prefetch). These are the places where windows updates being downloaded to and other temporary files are stored. If there are still files in these folders delete them.
- Uninstall the driver and delete C:\AMD
- Use CCleaner to clean the registry. The link is in the Blog above. Backup the registry before.
- Extract the Driver to C:\AMD and install.
The fuck? I was just correcting you, what’s with the hostility?
If everyone was telling you RM read discrete clock speeds, they were wrong. I’ve literally never spoken to you till now either so lashing out at me is uncalled for. Can’t really move the ball if I’ve never even spoken to you before.
And yes, it is locked at 4.6 GHz, HWiNFO64 literally shows it under discrete clocks section. Ryzen Master would too if it showed CORE_FREQ instead of CORE_FREQEFF.
And I don’t work for AMD either, I can’t decide what is put in Ryzen Master or what isn’t. There’s nothing to fix either, effective clock speeds are more accurate than discrete clock speeds for modern processors.
> On Zen2 (Matisse) systems this method can provide results closer to Ryzen Master (RM) per-core clock values, especially because it respects sleeping cores.
Even HWiNFO64’s dev knows RM shows effective clocks, which is why he added the metric back in Zen 2 days, the same is for Zen 3.
I can confirm root cause is HWiNFO.
I spent 5 days till now.
Running Prime95 without problem over 1 hour now.
Also please be informed OCCT is using HWInfo engine and causes WHEA 18 resets.
My report is as below.
Run OCCT GPU stress test and maybe the GPU VRAM stress test and see if it passes: https://www.ocbase.com/
Crashing during heaven which is much more GPU demanding than minecraft may indicate issues with the integrated graphics
Have you tried using a program like SnailDriver to make sure all your drivers are up to date?
I ask because I was having issues with my RX 480 (driver randomly crashing) and someone recommended it to me. Anyway, it found a more up-to-date chipset driver than was available on AMD's or my mobo manufacturer's website and it solved all my problems.
I'm sure other driver updating software would work that's just what I used.
Just by looking at the QVL for RAM and that MOBO, I'm not seeing CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 as supported Ram
https://pangoly.com/en/compatibility/msi-mpg-x570-gaming-plus/ram?c=Vermeer#cc - Source Search used
​
I couldnt find the official MSI site QVL list because everythings so buried in fluff on their site
If a future person ends up here, everything worked until I installed Duet onto my computer again. I was using an old iPad as a second monitor, but apparently that makes DirectX freak out. Guess I won’t be using Duet anymore :/
Seems like... a memory, heat, or power-related issue. Green lines is definitely display corruption, and I've seen them before when my graphics memory got too hot.
If you can, find a way to monitor your heat with something like HWMonitor
The documented max for this according to AMD is 62-63c, with I think a tjmax of 70.
Is there any chance your software is reading the temp off of the motherboard? grab a tool like hwmonitor, and compare what you see, to what it shows as die temp.
Note when using this, CPU temp is your socket temp, PACKAGE temp is the physical CPU die temp. you can mostly ignore CPU, you only want package with this tool.
Try updating the BIOS and re-checking too, it could very well be a matter of the boards thermal diode has gone to lunch on you.
Have you tried using DDU in safe mode and disabled windows update to keep it from installing GPU drivers in the background? You can also use a tool like driver store explorer to check if there are any old AMD GPU drivers present Windows might use.
With the GPU drivers completely gone I would also uninstall Afterburner and any other tool capable of altering GPU clocks before trying to install any drivers again. 18.11.2 or 18.12.1 seem to be a good start since they are based on an older Adrenalin feature build.
Once the drivers are back to working order I recommend not opening Wattman at all and try the latest Asus GPU Tweak or Afterburner instead.
If everything fails you can always try the second bios on your card.
No problem with the driver 19.3.3 driver.
Try if disabling the Fast startup setting helps.
https://www.howtogeek.com/243901/the-pros-and-cons-of-windows-10s-fast-startup-mode/
Have you configured Win10 settings?
Go with HWiNFO64. There is a "GPU D3D usage" readout which is more accurate than GPU utilization. HWiNFO64 sensors as OSD is supported by RTSS.
Hard to tell what is causing it. I recommend HWINFO64 and using the Hardware log option.
https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php
After installing and start up you see a small window. Select 'Sensors only' and in the lower right corner is the 'Logging start' button. All values will be saved into an .CSV file which can be opened with editor/ wordpad/ (free) Office but it looks chaotic.
There is a good HWiNFO add-on called GenericLogViewer which brings order to the .CSV file formatting chaos. It is from 2015 and needs eventually the Windows compatibility mode for Windows 8 or 7.
https://www.hwinfo.com/addons.php
If you need a second pair of eyes let me now.
Does the issue still persist when you restart the pc? Because the artifacts appeared whilst playing games, its indefinitely heat related.
​
I'd suggest you restart the pc, and check the temps using a tool such as open hardware monitor.
​
Edit - Do the artifacts appear when booting up, before windows has even loaded?
1st .try to lower ram speeds to 2400mhz or 2600mhz and try a game or two and tell us if its stable.leave Timings @ auto.
bios version : download cpuz https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html and choose the mainboard tab to see which bios you got.
for win10 type in search: winver.exe that shows off your windows version
you got any issues on the event viewer?
btw did you also cleared cmos before resetting the bios?
Okay, Please could you add screenshots of CPU Z memory tab, and SPD tab (selecting the slot(s) which your ram is in on the dropdown).
CPU Z is the go to software for this information, so if it still says something wrong there, it is possible that your bios needs to be reconfigured.
Minecraft Java Edition uses the OpenGL API for rendering, as Java Edition runs on Windows, Mac, and Linux, and OpenGL is the only API natively supported on all 3. However, AMD's Windows driver is pretty slow when it comes to OpenGL (most other games use DirectX's D3D, so AMD puts most of its development effort there.)
A good benchmark to test hardware vs. software is to put Ubuntu on a USB (use Etcher to flash the USB with the image), boot the USB, and run Minecraft. Most likely, you'll get way higher FPS, as AMD's Linux driver has a MUUUUCH more optimized OpenGL Implementation.
Minecraft Bedrock Edition uses D3D, and shouldn't suffer from this issue. Also Minecraft 1.17 Java Edition reworked some of it's rendering code, which might help, though it's still OpenGL.
> Is it better for me to just wipe my HDD and reinstall windows on my SSD?
This will give you a fresh, fast, clean install (so if it's been a while since your last clean install, it's not a bad idea).
But it's not necessary. Macrium Reflect is completely reliable, easy to use, and free cloning / imaging software.
I've had major stability issues as well with my Gigabyte Radeon Rx 5700 Xt. Part of me thinks it's the OC on the card. On an Asus board thats had 11 bios updates since last April with a AMD Ryzen 9 3900X. I've done so much crazy troubleshooting just to get it to stop rebooting randomly. Still crashing every once in a while, after almost a year. I changed the TDR in the registry for a longer pause so I at least crash to desktop instead of fulling rebooting every time.
You can always buy a kit off Amazon and if it doesn’t work then return it. I bought this crucial kit, it works with Ryzen: Crucial Ballistix 3200 MHz DDR4 DRAM Desktop Gaming Memory Kit 16GB (8GBx2) CL16 BL2K8G32C16U4B (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083TRRT16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_3rGcGb8AWHAZ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bought it on sale for $63
I just looked up the specs of the case fans included and Jesus Christ. 50cfm is horrible. Look into some Scythe fans. These linked below even at 50% move a lot of air
Scythe Kaze Flex 120mm Fan, Quiet Case Fan, 3-Pin 2000 RPM, Single Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0763T6VFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_xZJ.Fb0Y8CCXS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have a Ryzen 7 3700x and a Radeon RX 5600 XT plugged into a Gigabyte Aorus B450 Elite and I'm happy with it so far, it may not be the best MB out there, but for the money it has some nice features, currently only £92 (not sure how much they are in USD).
It might need a bios update to support 3rd gen, but most are ready out the box unless you get one from a really old batch.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aorus-B450-AORUS-ELITE-Socket/dp/B07GYRW53K
Run a testing utility (I think it's memtest86 or something like that) and see if there's something wrong with your RAM. Otherwise, try setting it to 3000-3200MHz to see if it's stable there.
I'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X8DVDZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_18IeFb829ZA0N
I just had to enable DOCP and it picked the right profile.
get the cooler master hyper 212 balck edition cpu cooler for 37.99 or the rgb version for 44.00 on amazon. i have one and it keeps my 3600 at low temps idle and under load.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H25DYM3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
let it sit, then buy some silica gel packets and put it in a bag or something. use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Canister-Dehumidifier-Reusable-Chloride/dp/B07CZ856NV/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=BNQXYK5LSDE7&keywords=silica+gel+container&qid=1671550035&sprefix=silica+gel++con%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-4
Here's what made a difference in our clients' laptops.
Timetec 32GB Kit (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz PC4-25600 1.2V CL22 2Rx8 Dual Rank for AMD Gaming
It's amazing how this particular ram upgrade works on all AMD mobile CPUs to take advantage of the integrated GPU.
Probably need something like this https://www.amazon.com/LEDdess-Rainbow-Controller-Strip-Remote/dp/B07JZCNPNV/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1XMB5OMD2X1N8&keywords=argb+to+usb&qid=1671377199&sprefix=argb+to+usb%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-4
If you don’t have a header on your motherboard. Tacky yes but if it works it works.
Filling in a number of blanks missing from the given information with 83 extremely similar client cases we have on file over the last 24-months, you may have two related issues.
First, the information indicates an insufficient amount of system memory, possibly 16GB, as Windows Page File may be active during testing results.
If correct, depending on the supported GPU pending errors may be a play.
Second, the problem we often see happen with insufficient running, is that the CPU to RAM bus is suffering instability. Here both RAM and CPU can be to blame, but with the 5 3600 supporting DDR4 3200 from what we've seen the memory is more to blame.
The higher success rate in solving this issue was the clients upgrading to the following kit.
In some additional cases, they found out it was an issue with the CPUs memory controller, and just did it inexpensive upgrade to Ryzen 5 5500 to take advantage of the new Zen 3 core.
AMD Ryzen™ 5 5500 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler
And on a rare occasion, there were motherboard issues and play. But most of these were solved by either upgrading the BIOS, for reflashing the current BIOS. And as always, remove the CMOS battery and clear the CMOS memory with the jumpers.
We always inform our clients to be mindful of the GPU they're using, or more importantly plan to upgrade, when moving to a Zen 3 processor.
The majority of our clients with 3600's simply upgraded to the 5500 when it came out this past spring, and with it currently being $100 (or less), all the older Ryzens have gotten swapped.
AMD Ryzen™ 5 5500 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler
As for the 5600X, when the newer 5600 was released earlier this year the 5600X quickly became obsolete.
AMD Ryzen™ 5 5600 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler
Technically,
That's not really a problem!
As far as how HDMI and DisplayPort communicate, they're not really that far off. In fact, back in 2014 there was a beta standard called VIDC (Visual Integrated Data Communications), meant to replace both.
But in the long run, the manufacturing community did not want any part for the new design. But since 2014, innovations to both HDMI and DisplayPort have somewhat mirrored each other.
We suggest our clients get a DisplayPort to HDMI cable, not adapter, to take full advantage of modern multi l-monitor graphics cards.
DisplayPort to HDMI 6 Feet Cable, Benfei DisplayPort to HDMI Male to Male Adapter Gold-Plated
This is the 1080p cable our clients purchased the most.
Hope this helps!
Hey friend! As unexciting as it is, I tried all of the alterations from the suggestions, and all resulted in memory errors still. I decided to just swap to a kit of RAM listed on the motherboard's approved RAM list. Boring, I know, but it was actually $80 cheaper than the stuff I initially got, so it's a net-win in my book.
The kit of RAM I replaced it with: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LHNF6GT
The system usually won't crash when running the RAM test, as it stays fairly static and helps windows switch into the Page File mode during testing.
It is strictly a stress test, but if it finds a deep enough hole, it'll shut the system down. The nine of us here have a total of almost 450 years of technical experience with PCs that date back to 1975, so nothing tends to surprise us anymore. Well, other than the fact that people get hung up on software for too much often.
When we hear things like "tune memory", it tends to stop us in our tracks. You tune your old 1963 R2 supercharged Studebaker Lark Daytona, because if you don't, it'll break.
But taking something that's broken possibly and tuning it, especially with additional data, is the equivalent of those "clean your PC" CD. ROMs that used to be so prevalent 10 years ago. In the hands of an amateur they just let people nuke their PC.
As far as the brand our clients by the most for the 5900X, it's usually this set here:
They allow for the best incremental overclocking if need be, and at 3200 they run fine too.
Uploaded to OneDrive: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=FE72337FCA77DCB5!1707&authkey=!AGPRLK7Qh0SitTs&ithint=file%2cmdmp
Windows 10 Home 64-bit CPU: Intel Core i5 4670 @ 3,4GHz GPU: R9 270X from MSI 8GB DDR3 Driver-Version: 16.1.1
Windows 10 Pro x64 Intel i7-2600 3.40GHz 10 GB DDR3 AMD Radeon R9 290x from MSI
Radeon Settings Version 2016.0203.1043.19267
Radeon Software Version 16.1.1
Driver Packaging Version 15.301.1801.1001-160203a-299101E
Direct3D® Version 9.14.10.1171
Collection of Dump files:
Setup:
OS Name Microsoft Windows 10 Pro
Version 10.0.10586 Build 10586
System Type x64-based PC
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 860 @ 2.80GHz, 2800 Mhz, 4 Core(s), 8 Logical Processor(s)
BIOS Version/Date Intel Corp. KGIBX10J.86A.4905.2010.0402.1639, 4/2/2010
SMBIOS Version 2.6
AMD Radeon HD 5870
Driver 15.30.1025-151117a-296582E
1GB GDDR
For a quick $100 Zen 3 upgrade, the majority of our clients have simply went with the 5500
AMD Ryzen™ 5 5500 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler
But even the 5600, is only $140
AMD Ryzen™ 5 5600 6-Core, 12-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor with Wraith Stealth Cooler
Alright. Still a lot of misspelling and misinformation in the post, but together we think we figured it out.
Sounds like you have a MSI Modern 14 B5M-053. A few of our clients have these. Excellent 14" laptop for the price! They do have a single shortcoming: they ship crippled out of the box. 😞
The 5500U is running in single channel mode at greatly reduced overall performance due to having only one 1Rx16 8GB stick of RAM. Although we found a one that was upgraded to have 1Rx8, the shipped RAM is crippling processor performance by up to 30%, and the Radeon integrated graphics by as much as 40%!
Now you do have the option to use CPU-Z to find the manufacturer and model number of your current stick and buy a matching used one off of eBay on the cheap, at least placing the laptop in balanced dual channel mode. But since 2Rx8 RAM gives the integrated graphics its quickest and greatest operating capabilities, this has been the most cost effective way to get there:
At 3200MHz, some 16GB sticks (but definitely not all of them) is the only way to find 2Rx8 dual rank performance.
If you have any questions, please let us know.
We've had clients run into this a number of times, and the "fix" has always been to run multiple monitors from the DisplayPorts only.
In some cases, the HDMI ports will take priority when connected to certain monitors. The only exception we've found has been on cards that have two or more HDMI ports.
For monitors that lack a DisplayPort input, we have our clients use conversation cables like these.
Displayport to HDMI, Benfei 4K DP to HDMI 6 Feet Cable Gold-Plated Cord
http://osxdaily.com/2017/01/08/disable-gpu-switching-macbook-pro/
(Make sure your core X is not connected while doing this until the adrenaline drivers are installed and you have rebooted)
That should disable your GPU in your MacBook pro, restart, make sure it's disabled by checking your resource monitor, then download the adrenaline drivers and install them, restart, then connect the Core X. I hope that should work.
I ordered this cable https://www.amazon.com.be/gp/product/B07HL7RXKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 seems like Vesa certified.We will see
Probably something like this...
https://www.amazon.ca/Molex-Power-Adapter-Graphics-Inches/dp/B0823JGRV6
Or this....
https://www.amazon.ca/Female-TeamProfitcom-Adapter-Braided-Sleeved/dp/B07V4GGS43
Can't comment on if this is a good thing to use... 6600 is a low power card so it should be fine I'd think.
Updated the BIOS with my 2600 so I'm just waiting on the cooler ig. Do you reckon this will be fine?
If you can't access it while using your integrated graphics to see what's going on, and nothing detects it, not even ATIFlash, it will be next to impossible to do anything on your own without investing some money to attempt to recover it.
Just out of curiosity, go into Device Manager and expand "Display Adapter" and tell me what do you see for the RX 470 because I'm really starting to feel like it is one of those Sapphire Nitro Mining Edition cards. Does it only have a DVI port?
Hi Everyone,
Okay PSU advice needed. Amazon has a Rog Strix 1000W gold. It mentions Strix in the single rail A list category, but double checking before I screw up and get the wrong one. I'm out of date and didn't realize there was a lot of models of PSU. I upgraded to that 850W from a 500W and up from bronze to gold and thought I'd got a good PSU!
Here's the link:
​
(And thanks for all the fast responses).
Here is my current plan, if someone can comment please with more knowledge. I'll try explain best I can.
Plan: https://i.ibb.co/GtwvzPr/air-flow.png
So plan is first to remove EVERYTHING in yellow since I don't need that. Then I would install below AIO in green box area. So this one would have intake from 1st and 2nd place marked with arrows. More from 1st and less from 2nd.
Then I would cut whole and install 3 additional 3000RPM noctua fans on 4th, 5th and 6th place of arrows for better air.
There is already 80mm fan on 3rd place of arrow which I would only upgrade with better one from Noctua.
On 7th place arrow would be main exit of hot air and also there would be strongest 3000RPM noctua fan.
On 8th arrow I would drill wholes at whole top area and remove plastic from behind (10x2cm) just for taking out hot air, also maybe I would add there thin noctua fan to help it out.
What do you think about this? I think this is doable?
AIO https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07WP6M7P7?tag=2813054-21&geniuslink=true
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-MEG-X570S-MAX-Motherboard/dp/B09GLBW5LL
Sucker is amazing. No DP or HDMI ports, I know you asked for those, but those are truly not useful for you.
There's no iGPU support so unless you (very heavily) downgraded to a 5000g CPU HDMI and dp ports are a complete waste.
6x m.2 ports for expansion down the road, and 2x ram dims instead of 4 for ram stability to get the tightest timings at 3800 mhz possible.
This board is amazing. Wish it had been this price when I built my PC.
There should be stickers on the backside of the fans with the product number. Could be that same IHaospace product number like in the link.
https://www.amazon.de/CF1015H12D-Cooling-Replacement-Sapphire-Cooler/dp/B07M9XNF28
It's one associated with a Microsoft account, and dual channel memory. 2 8gb sticks that say they're running at 1066.4 MHz despite the order saying they can run at 3500
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0143UM4TC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's most likely Battleye anti-cheat software causing crashes according to fortnite developers:
https://trello.com/c/fENlm7Za/223-bsod-on-fortnite-launch
They suggest uninstalling battleye and reinstalling it.
>Navigate to C:\Program Files\Epic Games\Fortnite\FortniteGame\Binaries\Win64\BattlEye
>Click the Uninstall_BattlEye.bat file (Windows Batch File)
>Click the Install_BattlEye.bat file (Windows Batch File)
I haven't had almost any crashes. I don't know what I'm doing right. I keep seeing so many people crash in Fortnite recently on AMD cards.
I'm on 18.7.1 and I've only had 1 application crash(Not hard crash. Game just closed with some strange error message and I was then in desktop) so far out of dozens of games in Season 5 and Season 5.1
Perhaps run Epic Games Launcher as Administrator too. Battleye might need admin priviliges to do its thing.
Here we can find images of jst plug: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/91Obp6-h3lL.jpg So, it has +12V B G R, and GND has no wire.
Finally got an answer... Or do I?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F1NFSG4/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_QE2WDT3AEHJQWA7MMSSM_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what i'm using for a PSU
I did what you said to do and i let it idle all night with 0 problems. i'll report back how it goes with gaming.
Something like these just needs to be plugged and provides it's on signals. https://www.amazon.com/Meshforce-Whole-Home-System-Suite/dp/B07YXYV9MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?adgrpid=79443331621&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxveXBhDDARIsAI0Q0x3Z7G7oNm4zUu72qnh_xEn8ZsRCNA4mSOc0Tkc37xNucOMHcfqi-jcaAlccEALw_wcB&hvadid=395505816880&hvdev...
I never had a problem with my nvidia gpu and these DP cables. I think I do have a long enough HDMI cable laying around somewhere so I can try that with my 4K monitor eventually. Thank you for the suggestion.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08M3JVVYM These are the cables I'm using. I could try to find a more reputable brand but I don't want to go as far as getting expensive monster cables lol
To be honest I've never needed one myself but what you are looking for is an active adapter rather than a passive one. Here are links I found that look like active adapters:
Nowadays it is quite difficult to find active adapters, and even harder to confirm that they are, in fact, active. Most people don't need them. If you can find a multi adapter that uses VGA it is probably active as VGA definitely requires active conversion. You still want to be sure it isn't just the monitor, if the monitor itself is bust it still won't work.
First time was totally accident, second time I thought it was hot enough but I probably did not have much room wiggle because of the CPU fan see link below. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y87YHRH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One or both of the fans could be going bad. I forgot to mention before that I had that problem, too. I noticed that one of the fans wasn't spinning as fast as the other. I went on Amazon, ordered replacements (even though just one fan seemed to be the problem, I decided to simply replace them both) and then installed them.
The replacement fans that I ordered are these, since I had a Gigabyte RX 570
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S74QD95
They may work on the XFX, but see if you can find replacements specifically for the XFX first.
This tiers is better than any mobo heatsync, if you want to keep that m.2 chilly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09L6FGDY3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
+
2x Thermopad Thermal Grizzly Minus... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZJSBRE6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Normally recommend it to people with m.2s that run +5k w/r, or Western digital m.2s. those suckers run scary hot (90-95°c)
The kits are the exact same kit as the previous one. One hynix memory and the other I believe is micron. These are the sticks https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-T-Force-3600MHz-PC4-28800-TF4D416G3600HC18JDC01/dp/B08FBGSPK2
My issues are not related to my ram as I have tested them multiple for hours. This is a GPU related concern. I am not even sure if my performance (look at the youtube vid I linked) is normal for this card. My 3Dmark scores are below the average while running at stock settings. Turning XMP off on my RAM means they'll run at 2400mhz which will affect the CPU performance.
Definitely not okay for a stock 3600. I have a 3600 OC'd to 4.2 GHz and undervolted. While running the Prime95 stress test on all cores I barely break 80°C, ambient temp was about 23°C/74°F.
This is the cooler I'm using, Cooler Master MA410M, well worth the money, and does a phenomenal job for an air cooler. A bit more than $30 though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPYM6NR?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
The second drive will be limited to PCIe Gen 3 speeds, so up to 3,400MB/s. That's still a whole lot faster than the 600MB/s that SATA SSDs are limited to. Even SATA speeds are fast enough for most things. You might notice the difference between Gen 4 and Gen 3 only if you're doing big file copies, working with massive databases or doing professional video editing. If you're just a normal user who browses the web, watches movies and plays games, you'll won't notice any difference.
The motherboard chipset supports 1 NVMe drive and the CPU supports 1 drive, so 2 drives total, but you can buy and install as many expansion cards as you have PCIe slots for to add more drives than that. Here's an example of one:
https://www.amazon.com/novonest-Adapter-Express-Expansion-Support/dp/B09CYM51QC
(This but 10cm)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NHVSHMR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1], and if it matters at all, it is pretty cramped in my case.
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition RGB CPU Air Cooler, SF120R RGB Fan, Anodized Gun-Metal Black, Brushed Nickel Fins, 4 Copper Direct Contact Heat Pipes for AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1151 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8ZHENYW9FSJ5ECJ6AZFT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also not sure why I got downvoted lmao a bunch of salty people on here
> So I'm hoping that it's not power related (I use a double socket to split the power draw and I'm in the UK so overloading one socket is less of a hazard here I believe?).
Sorry, I think we got confused. I wasn't talking about the wall sockets (though you are right as the household current in the US is 120V versus the rest of the world being on 230V). I meant to refer to the cable from the power supply to the card itself. Most high-end GPUs require multiple 6 or 8-pin plugs on the side to provide power, and most PSU GPU cables have multiple of those plugs on a single cable, as seen on this example for a modular PSU. Most decent PSUs will have multiple GPU cables or plugs available to them, and the best practice is to use two cables to provide power instead of using two plugs on a single cable.
Do not boot your pc. Remove the mobo and install the spacers. If you don't, you will fry your PC.
Spacers come with the case.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Brass-Motherboard-Standoffs-Computer/dp/B00213KL5I
What gains would I have with a CL16 : https://www.newegg.ca/g-skill-32gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820232881
Versus a CL19 : https://www.amazon.ca/G-SKILL-Ripjaws-PC4-28800-3600MHz-F4-3600C19D-32GVRB/dp/B07FSWN49R
I have 3700x and a RX 6800 XT. Can't seem to find Cl16-16-16 or even 3200 CL14-14-14 online that are available/affordable (in canada).
Did you think I was the original poster? Your response made me think so. Luckily I'm not experiencing any artifacting, but I appreciate you asking. My current issue is stuttering in games, but I'm in the early phases of troubleshooting.
It all started with Star Wars Jedi: Fallen Order, but sources online claim this issue is the result of poor optimization with the way the game loads assets and it's mostly unavoidable regardless of settings. Now, I notice stuttering in all my games, but I can't tell if I'm just hyper aware of it now.
I remember a time when I couldn't tell the difference between 30 and 60 FPS, but now I definitely can, so I don't know if it's me, my hardware (hence asking about cables), or the optimization of the game. This is the cable I'm currently using, if you have any thoughts.
I got cl14 Samsung b die, g. Skill trident Z neo for my 5800x. It’s clocking in at 3600mhz stock timing. No stability issues
G.Skill Trident Z NEO Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin SDRAM (PC4-28800) DDR4 3600 CL14-15-15-35 1.45V Dual Channel Desktop Memory Model F4-3600C14D-16GTZNB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084M86LP8/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_MVKXP5D303F4M1Y6PT62
Can't find it on US website, So here it is on Amazon.fr
If the issue is still here try to plug it on a different USB header.
On my motherboard it was one specific header that caused issue, so with the hub I was able to not use this specific header.
is this your power supply? https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Certified-Continuous-Active-PS-SPD-0600NPCWUS-W/dp/B014W3EMAO
Is this psu good? i ordered it for my new build, and wondering if i made the right choice. its fully modular and has enough watt for me.
It's weird that it shows on the actual screen but not in a recording. Perhaps try a different monitor, or different connection types (HDMI/DisplayPort/DVI/etc). Also experiment with Windowed vs Fullscreen vs Borderless Fullscreen.
If you're feeling a bit adventurous, one other thing you could try to narrow down whether the issue is with hardware or software is to install a Linux distro like Ubuntu 21.04 on a partition or spare drive, and see if the issue persists there. If it still does, it's likely something hardware, if not, more likely a software or driver issue. (If your have Rocket League via Steam, just install Steam, no extra software is needed. If you have it on EGS, use Lutris to install it as it automates the annoying details.)
Well if you haven't reinstalled at any point and have done only backups, you might have a corrupted file somewhere making a mess.
Windows had this stupid setting that I honestly wish was disabled by default called Write Back Caching.
https://winaero.com/disk-write-caching-windows-10/amp/
This setting has absolutely no place on a desktop without a UPS.
display drivers automatically updating in windows update annoyed the heck outta me. As an alternative, i ticked the option "Disable automatic driver updates through windows update" in shutup10!
If you already have both installed, fetch gpu-z https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/ and see what mode the gpu goes in under load?
There's a line there, "bus interface" which on my end shows "PCIe x16 4.0 @ x16 3.0"
If your motherboard is splitting the bandwith between the pcie slot and the m2.2_2 slot, then yours will show something like "PCIe x16 4.0 @ x8 3.0"
You seem to have a point on the arrow direction. So you're not able to see what is using the CPU time there.
You might be better able to identify the problematic processes using Process Hacker.
https://medal.tv/games/fortnite/clips/8g4Zu7FDg7JLC/d1337QEXwmzj?invite=cr-MSxxQkQsMTQ3NzE1Mzgshow (how bad it looks while playing on epic settings thats not supposed to happen ik its the gpu because when i RMA the card i had a 270x on my hand and i used that and everything was fine ofc i dont get the best fps because its a low end gpu but i didnt get no problems like my r9 270x runs better than this crap)
https://medal.tv/games/fortnite/clips/8g4Zu7FDg7JLC/d1337QEXwmzj?invite=cr-MSxxQkQsMTQ3NzE1Mzgshow bad it looks while playing on epic settings thats not supposed to happen ik its the gpu because when i RMA the card i had a 270x on my hand and i used that and everything was fine ofc i dont get the best fps because its a low end gpu but i didnt get no problems like these literally my r9 270x runs better than this
I've had this issue as well but not from gaming so far. My black screens happen while I'm browsing the internet, especially if I go to start media of sorts like videos. It doesn't happen all the time and it's very random but it's been maddening because it locks the computer up completely.
When I'm gaming, more specifically, playing CS:GO, this is what was happening:
It starts out as a coil whine then I get this occasional buzzing. All temps were normal and the card isn't overclocked at all. I did find out the noise is connected to frame rate. When I was running with no limit at 200+ FPS, I would get this noise. When I limited it inside the game to 120, nothing.
I'm wondering if MSI had a bad batch of cards or if this is a widespread issue...
So I think this is a driver issue. At one point in my testing I had the same experience as you described.
The solution that I found has worked for me so far was to install the 15.11.1 Catalyst drivers. I have edited my original post was with the steps I took to install the beta drivers so you could try and follow them.
One thing that happened however was the Windows automatically installed Crimson and it messed everything up. The solution to this is to use the Group Policy Editor to prevent Windows from automatically installing the drivers so that it will not overwrite the Catalyst ones. I'm at the airport right now so can't go into detail about the exact steps, but you can follow the guide here: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/take-back-control-driver-updates-windows-10/ just follow the steps in the Local Group Policy Settings section and that should prevent drivers from being updated
When I return I'll update the post. Hope this helps!