What are /r/Dell's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

I felt like using this laptop on my lap i was flexing the power connecter too much. I was just gonna get a 90 degree doodad, but then I stumbled across this beauty.

Works great, doesn't overheat at 130w, and no danger of breaking anything with it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MMKZ8XD

Ram can be easily tested with MemTest86.

Can you recreate this crash? Perhaps the laptop overheated? Temps can be checked with HWiNFO64.Have you used any CPU/GPU tuning software? If yes, then open the software again and clear all set values to defaults.

Update Intel chipset+iGPU drivers and Nvidia drivers.

One suggestion I have is to use https://ninite.com to install the popular applications you want. It removes any bloatware they come packaged with and installs the whole bundle in one go. Really handy for a new computer.

Dell WD19TB Thunderbolt Dock. You can find it cheaper on eBay. I use this on my XPS 15 9500 and been great with no issue.

If you are concerned with Microsoft tracking user data, there are ways to limit what gets sent to Microsoft:

http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/t/586731/compilation-windows-10-tips-tricks-and-tools-to-enhance-your-privacy/

TBH, it is well known that Microsoft has worked with (and continues to works with) the NSA. They even (supposedly) name things conveniently for them!

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/NSAKEY

EDIT If you're really concerned with your privacy, you should be using a burner laptop with TAILS and an air-gapped connection. If you need Facebook (lol), go through ONION routing. Just sayin'.

• Use https://sourceforge.net/projects/mediainfo/ (HTML view) to tell us all about the video file.
• Then also post information about your installed DXVA2 and directshow filters.
• Finally use https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/ sensor section to watch your GPU video decoder utilization, and use some taskmanager to monitor CPU utilization during playback and post what you see.

There's no fix to that issue. Synaptic drivers has the same exact issue if you've read the "magical fix" to XPS touchpad problems. The next big Windows update is scheduled sometime in Spring 2017, which is called the Creator's update. There are supposed to be big changes to Precision touchpads with the update.

The jumping issue with the Windows precision touchpad did not exist before the Windows 10 Anniversary Update. It's not exclusive to the XPS; it affects all laptops equipped with Precision touchpads and the W10 AU.

To remove the backplate you need Torx T5 screwdriver bit, there are total of 10 Torx screws and there are two standard Philips screws under the XPS logo.

I've personally found this kit to be great for almost any electronic teardown. It will have all the pieces you need.

Edit:

Keep in mind that those screws are super soft and low quality, so it is likely you will strip those down. However, if you have patience and are careful you might be able to get them out without stripping them.

In case you do end up stripping those, Amazon will have replacement screws.

Yep I thought this too. I recommend using Flux. Even if you don't use its main function for auto adjusting the colour temperature (which I highly recommend), it also has a dimming function which works quite nicely. Keyboard shortcut is Fn+Alt+Up/Down arrows.

CC /u/ilikebrownbananas

It's a known issue, surface book users thread is where I saw it first, disabling hyper-v solved their issues and mine when I upgraded to win 10 pro.

http://superuser.com/questions/540055/convenient-way-to-enable-disable-hyper-v-in-windows-8

If you don't have a password manager it would be a good time to look into one now. Also, check out https://haveibeenpwned.com/ to see if you've been in any other breaches.

Direct link to avoid the Twitter/link shortener scum

Of course Dell does. They get steep discounts or straight up get paid for letting vendors (in this case McAfee) install their bloatware that is usually more disruptive than a virus. It's how Dell maximizes profits on their consumer market segment machines by helping to offset hardware and software costs.

If you really want actual 3rd party independent test results, look here before you drop money on McAfee.

https://www.av-test.org/en/antivirus/home-windows/windows-10/august-2018/

In most cases you are better off putting that money towards a backup solution first though since the number of zero day exploits are always increasing and you are likely the weakest link in the security of your computer.

Here are what I do to upgrade to 2TB NVMe SSD on my 9500:

- Download & install Macrium Reflect 7 (free)

- Clone the hard drive using a NVMe-USB adapter (~$20)

- After cloning, open the computer & swapped out the SSD

- Then go back to Macrium and extend the partition to have more space, otherwise, you still only have the original SSD's size (125GB).

​

Using this technique, you don't have to worry about reinstall Windows, reinstall apps, set all settings again, etc.. Cloning is making a mirror image! Easy peasy.

Eh, they seemed to match the font correctly, but they were super careful to not put any branding on it.

You may wanna see into filing with amazon to get your money back, or at the very least get a legit battery.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=16J-001J-005B7

the above is the real thing for comaprison.

And this is a fully OEM one direct from dell, not cheap, linking also for reference. https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Genuine-Inspiron-Battery-F7HVR/dp/B01JFWVVQ0

I hope this may have helped, always buy trusted name brands, you never know how much of the budget battery is actually sand, or how quickly the components are going to give out, or possibly fail and cause a fire.

WHO did you purchase it from on Amazon? That is key.

If you bought it from Dell (where it sells the seller is "Dell" or "sold and fulfilled by Amazon"), then you should be covered. If it was sold by a 3rd party retailer (3rd party from Amazon), then you may not be covered. The page you linked has the seller as "Sold by Prime-Computer and Fulfilled by Amazon," which means you are not eligible for the 3 year warranty under Dell's terms. If you bought this monitor which is sold from and shipped by Amazon, you would be eligible.

You can easily check this by looking at the purchase receipt/invoice on Amazon. Amazon aggregates customer comments: so just because someone else commented that they're under a 3 year warranty does not guarantee that you are covered by the same if purchased through a different seller on Amazon.

EDIT: If you did not purchase it per the specs I listed above, I am sorry, but you're probably out of luck. Next time, do a bit of research on warranties/price matching/coverages, and you will see that purchasing from a retailer-1st party (Dell.com, Dell sold on and shipped by Amazon) is the key to preserving the 1st party warranty offered by these companies. Just because Amazon purchasers leave reviews and/or answers do not mean they necessarily apply to you.

I’d like to point out that you do not have to buy 2933 RAM to get 2933 speeds. For example buying (usually cheaper because it’s more commonly available) 3200 RAM will automatically be set to 2933.

I purchased this and it runs at 2933 on the XPS9500: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-16GBx2-PC4-25600-Unbuffered-260-Pin/dp/B07Q7T9NSC

Shhh don't spread this - 2tb NVMe - $250 - Starts 11/22

i guess that now begs the question whether we can get linux to boot/install via RAID (intel RST?)

e: maybe this would help. can't test it now though since i already use my laptop productively. anyone care to try?

e2: i just turned RAID on in the bios, linux booted fine. no changes to power consumption. drats.

Got my Precision 5520 last month, to be honest I didn't do much to it. Tweaked some settings, but found no significant bloatware. Dell actually put some software on it I might use.

I just installed my programs and started off. A tip for that is https://ninite.com btw. Just check your programs, and the one download gets you all of them installed to the latest version.

You'll need a valid Windows 10 pro license to upgrade to Pro, otherwise just installing pro will not activate and you'll be left with an "Activate windows now" prompt. The drivers should automatically all install themselves via windows update after you install the wireless drivers, so download those and the rest will automatically go after after you connect to the internet. In order to install Ubuntu you'll need to make sure RAID and Secure Boot are of in the UEFI. To download and install Ubuntu you'll need another computer with an internet connection. Download an iso of your preferred version (Official link here: https://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop), make sure to download the 64-bit version. Use a program called Rufus to burn the iso to a USB flash drive, and boot off of it, ubuntu should be pretty easy to install (It can automatically setup a system to run windows along with ubuntu), after installing Ubuntu a menu will appear after starting the computer asking which operating system you want to use (Ubuntu will be the default automatically) Ninja Edit: If you have any more questions feel free to respond to this comment, I'll try my best to answer them

You're using a really old version of Ubuntu on fairly new hardware. 16.04 times with kernel 4.4 your laptop wasn't out then so compatibility is going to be shakey.

Try Ubuntu 17.04. It comes with a newer kernel (4.10) which should be better suited for your hardware. If you're looking for an LTS version that will work with your hardware you will need to move to 18.04 when it ships.

It's a stock image. What you need to do is to find a frontal image of the display, crop the display and image search in google for the result.

Or just click here and pick one you like:

https://www.shutterstock.com/image-illustration/dynamic-color-series-composition-streams-paint-268493021

For those googling this issue now, I found a workaround that achieves this without messing with drivers.

1. Install AutoHotKey
2. Create a new .ahk file with the code below.
3. Paste in the code below.
4. Run the .ahk. To make it run all the time put a shortcut in your Startup folder.

Here's the code:

#NoEnv ; Recommended for performance and compatibility with future AutoHotkey releases. ; #Warn ; Enable warnings to assist with detecting common errors. SendMode Input ; Recommended for new scripts due to its superior speed and reliability. SetWorkingDir %A_ScriptDir% ; Ensures a consistent starting directory.

#Persistent #SingleInstance Force

; Capture the 3 finger click which is sent to Windows as Left windows + Shift + Ctrl + F22 #^+F22:: Click Middle Return

Or if you feel comfortable running an .exe from a stranger on Reddit you can use this compiled script and not have to install AutoHotKey or mess with creating your own .ahk.

nice. Grab that 2TB M.2 SSD on Amazon Prime day for $200! I got 2x in my system (4TB) and it's amazing although you trade off some battery life due to extra hardware.

The easiest thing you can do is this:

1. Open up the back of the laptop and check what kind of storage you have
2. Get a matching usb adapter from Amazon or eBay that will make it work as a USB drive when you plug it in another working pc.

For e.g. If you have a M.2, get this adapter. SSK Aluminum USB 3.1 to M.2 NGFF SSD Enclosure Adapter, External SATA Based M.2 Solid State Hard Drive Enclosure (SATA Based) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MKCG5ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_KwsbGbMXMJHRP

I dont know much about the WD15, but if it has a thunderbolt 3 port, you can use a thunderbolt 3 to HDMI 2.0 adapter to get 60hz on the TV. Make sure to set the TV to a "PC" mode. Also can use the thunderbolt 3 on the 9550.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Pixelbook-Compatible-Thunderbolt/dp/B07THJGZ9Z

I bought a matte screen protector and it has worked well for me. It ruins the use of the webcam which is garbage anyways.

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/PcProfessional-Screen-Protector-Scratch-radiation/dp/B017GGF1PE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484074098&sr=8-1&keywords=9550+matte+screen+protector

I bought https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ZGY7OLI/

Only issue I had is a zipper that seems to be getting stuck (defective). Returning it and ordered a replacement already. Amazon is great for stuff like that.

Yea, I purchased one from Amazon for my XPS (9560), it comes in a few colors, I got a clear and navy blue. If you get the clear you can put a skin on under it. https://www.amazon.com/mCover-iPearl-Hard-Shell-mCover-DELL-XPS15-9550-CLEAR/dp/B01BN6RJ3U

It's possible to upgrade the Wifi card in the 7567, with the most common upgrade being an Intel 8260 or 8265. You can find them for roughly $25-$30 online.

Amazon Link to 8260: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-8260-IEEE-802-11ac-Adapter/dp/B0197W86IE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-2&keywords=intel+8265

Amazon Link to 8265: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-8265-NGWMG-BlueTooth-Brown/dp/B01MZA1AB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502720437&sr=8-1&keywords=intel+8265

I bought this cheap one on amazon. It’s for the 9560 but I don’t ever use the webcam so I don’t care that it covers it. Mine was exactly perfect size. A lot of the reviews complain that it bubbles, but it’s really just having experience putting these films on. I was able to get it on without any bubbles and it looks great.

The only thing is you’ll have to clean it about once a week since the keys of the keyboard slightly rub oil onto it.

But having it on looks great to me, Id rather have slight pixel offset with the anti glare than seeing my reflection everywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GGF1PE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_4yUFBb21HJYD6

Get some of these (or similar--you definitely don't need a whole bag for this purpose). Snap one on the power cord fairly close to where it inserts into the computer. This will attenuate the high frequency noise coming from the AC adapter, before it enters your computer.

Very low risk attempting it yourself, I haven't fully priced it out but you can get a 1Tb NVMe Western Digital ssd for $135 Canadian on sale, which is ~$100 USD https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-SN550-1TB-NVMe-Internal/dp/B07YFFX5MD

This support guy is misinformed. He's confusing the by-design feature with the bug. The first is where the laptop can go over 130 watts in certain cases (and maybe for a limited time). The second is where the laptop is unable to receive more than about 105 watts of power from the A/C adapter.

The first step for you is to get detailed measurements: when running your game, what is the rate of charge? Worst case scenario for me was about 1% of drain every 1:40. If you're seeing a drain from 100% to 20% in 5 hours, that's about 1% of drain every 3:45. We don't know yet what the expected drain is from a system that's fully powered.

The next step is to ask to escalate the issue to this guy's manager, or try again with a different support agent.

The final step, if none of this works, is to buy something like this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Measure the power draw while gaming. If your device can't pull over about 105 watts, you can use that data to prove to support that your machine has a problem.

Dell made a 130 watt USB-C charger for the 15-inch 2-in-1 - like this one - I've ordered one and I can confirm that it works as good as a barrel jack adapter when charging my 9570. So people who state that there is none are incorrect.

But I would advise you to fix the charging port instead. The charging port is a separate part which can be easily replaced when broken and costs significantly less than the USB-C charger. The part number for the port is 64TM0, and it can be easily on Amazon and many other marketplaces.

I use a standard T5 screwdriver for the screws on the bottom panel and a small Philips under the flap of my 9560. I'd imagine the newer models use the same screws

As for toolkits, I highly recommend picking something up from iFixit. Most brands on Amazon use cheaper bits that aren't really high of a decent quality, but they do get the job done

Edit: This'll do the trick for just about anything

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0189YWOIO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_cvKeEbY19FGDB

If you have an Android install a call recording app and record that conversation. I don't know your local law for recording a conversation. Here in Texas, it's a one party state so as long as I know then I don't have to let the other person know.

I use this app, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appstar.callrecorderpro

Due to your post I went to look at my webcam drivers (to see if I can give them to you) and I found out by digging into the .inf files that they are generic microsoft drivers that can actually be found on any windows installation media. Dell doesn't have them available to download, because it seems to me that Dell never made any...

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=CEF7CC1C215D2E88%213007

These are the files I found on my computer, but you're going to have a hard time installing these system files manually. You might have more luck running SFC and checking your installation for corrupt files.

Smartass, I don't even use Edge. And no, Chrome don't use the same battery as others. I gonna pass you some benchs. How much is Google paying you to claim this is false?

https://www.custompcreview.com/articles/chrome-vs-edge-vs-firefox-best-browser-battery-life/38926/ http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/ditching-chrome-opera-will-improve-battery-life/

This issue came with an issue that laptop reviewers were having testing the laptops with Chrome and when they switched browsers the issue was gone. I can get extra juice with other browsers, it's also my experience.

You should really look into f.lux https://justgetflux.com/

The problem with a lower brightness level is backlight flickering. I turned my XPS 15 9550 into a hackintosh and the lowerst 3-4 brightness levels are kinda bad, they are very dimm but flicker a lot. Turning it off works fine but I never used it because I just use my phone when I am in my bed.

No, I'm using Ubuntu 16.04.3 with HWE-edge kernel and X stack, is rock solid, it never crashes and suspension plug/unplug works nicely too.

First, have you set acpi_rev_override=5 in /etc/default/grub ? That's very important to make the XPS 9560 work properly with Linux, if not, follow the first part of this other guide I wrote https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/5y3rii/xps_9560_battery_life_optimization_and_fan/

Then, as the XPS hardware is relatively new, a recent kernel is important too.

If you're using Ubuntu 16.04 and want to install the "edge" HWE stack: sudo apt-get install --install-recommends linux-generic-hwe-16.04-edge xserver-xorg-hwe-16.04

or if you want the "stable" HWE stack: sudo apt-get install --install-recommends linux-generic-hwe-16.04 xserver-xorg-hwe-16.04

Then you may want to add this PPA https://launchpad.net/~graphics-drivers/+archive/ubuntu/ppa to install and keep updated nvidia proprietary drivers with no hassle.

If you don't have other conflicting mods to the stock 16.04 this is a good start to make Ubuntu rock solid on your XPS.

I Just got my 9360 a few weeks ago, but with me being the power user i am, already filled the 500GB SSD. so i bought this guy right here and it works great. Make sure to get an nvme drive because if not it will be a downgrade in speed. You also probably know this, but if forgot on my first hdd swap, make a bootable windows flash disk. (DM me if you need help :P) https://slickdeals.net/f/11567527-samsung-970-evo-1tb-nvme-ssd-for-340-with-unidays-student-discount?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo1

Yeah I believe the $100 dollars off is only for the base model which is the i5 8 GB 128GB SSD NON-TOUCH version. I believe that the student discount cannot be added to any sales or offers.

If you have a Costco membership, you should definitely get their deal right now which is $200 off the i7 8GB 256GB SSD QHD+ TOUCH version. It brings the price down to $1,299.

Here's the link!

Unless you care about the 2-in-1 design (360-degree hinge), I don't think it's worth the extra money, especially considering you'd be downgrading the experience elsewhere (worse port selection, worse CPU performance, worse GPU performance, more expensive, more issues with Windows scaling).

I usually use cpubenchmark.net for high-level CPU and GPU comparisons: http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp%5B%5D=2865&cmp%5B%5D=2873 Based on that, the i5-7200U is about 44% faster.

Also, even with a 1920x1080 display, you'll probably want to increase text scaling, which would of course present issues with programs that don't support HiDPI options.

The first thing I did was download and run Ninite

Downloads and installs everything you tick automatically without additional junk

Then I used DDU to get rid of the old drivers that come with windows install and manually installed latest Nvidia/intel drivers from their website

Check it over and make sure everything works. USB ports, SD card slot, sound...charger. Thunderbolt port if you have something to plug into it. Check for obvious defects....screen, keyboard, hinges.

Are you sure you need that much RAM?

Get https://ninite.com/ multi installer. It's great for loading up programs on a new PC very quickly.

I use an installer from Ninite to install my favorite apps. Windows 10 comes with Windows Defender by default, unless you plan to be an idiot online that should suffice along with the sketchy McAfee that comes pre-loaded. Aside from that it's up to you.

You are right on the minimum system requirements. It could be maxing out the CPU/GPU and RAM.

You should download speedfan and see how hot your internals are getting.

System requirements page for Blender: https://www.blender.org/download/requirements/

Hackintosh is not yet ready for skylake processor, that had only been supported in OSX 10.11.1, the first update of El Capitan.
You can still try by following a guide like this one but it will be painful.
Clover bootloader and kext are also not ready for skylake CPUID...
But hopefully OSX 10.12 will be RTU for XPS 15 9550.
I won't speak about using xcode in a virtual machine because it is not a viable option, developping in a VM is always a bad idea.

I'm on 21.20.16.4526

I use Snappy Driver Installer to get find newer drivers than Dell or Microsoft Update put out.

It looks like one of those shitty malware ridden tools, but it's legit.

Edit: Also if you're getting jittery youtube playback in Chrome, try using Canary Chome instead. It's not the graphics card causing issues, it's Chrome not playing nice with the new Kaby Lake processors. It's fixed in Canary Chrome.

I've had this issue too.

I used Snappy Driver Instaler (which is actually a pretty damn useful utility and not one of those shitty driver installers that's basically malware) to find more recent drivers than the ones Dell/Windows Update provide and it seems to have fixed it.

Hi, I used the application called Throttlestop from this location: http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/Benchmarks/ThrottleStop.shtml

I used the youtube video linked here for instructions, it took about 10 minutes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfIxf73RGEg

Can you Download and check the smart status of your SSD health to make sure its ok?

Also have you tried running your games without an external moniter attached?

Another thing you might want to do is check to verify your on your latest Bios

Hello!

The issue come from the Broadcom firmware. Canonical recently published a PPA including a patched version of bcmwl package to correct this problem.

Open a terminal and run :

sudo apt-add-repository ppa:inaddy/lp1415880
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade

That's it :)

another user, MoustachieCat, seems to have identified the issue in another thread

It would appear the issue is with the new Kaby Lake processor, and Chrome doesn't work well with it yet. Chrome Canary, an unstable, newer version of Chrome, works just fine with it but may be a bit buggy. Canary allowed me to play videos in Netflix and Amazon perfectly!

I use this script with a slightly modified preset on every new windows 10 install and haven't experienced any problems so far. Use at your own risk.

https://github.com/Disassembler0/Win10-Initial-Setup-Script

Cool setup, not sure if Synergy would work for you sharing your keyboard and mouse. I use it for two monitors next to each other on windows and Linux works pretty well can even copy/paste etc.

https://symless.com/synergy

Install latest drivers by Intel, use https://www.oo-software.com/en/shutup10 (optimized settings), disable Windows 10 telemetry via gpedit, dont use 3rd party anti virus scanners except Windows Defender.

Try this tool; https://www.oo-software.com/en/shutup10
You can disable lots of windows bloatware. Make sure you look at what you're disabling though, I disabled OneDrive and ended up losing a lot of work I thought was backed up.

Try to use https://www.oo-software.com/en/shutup10 download it, open, then go to Actions (top button), click "apply only recommend settings" (this will deactivate a ton of spying things on you), but then scroll down to Windows Update and make sure these two are on:

-Disable automatic downloading manufacturers apps

- Automatic driver updates Through Windows Updates disabled

reboot.

I use PowerToys to remap the F8 and F9 as Prev and Next on my XPS 17. I've also set Left Alt + Space = Right Alt + Space because it would bring up search while gaming.

There's new releases now, but if they don't work try the 0.25 release. 0.27 was the newest when I got it and it crashed when I tried remapping keys. It'll ask you to update at some point, the update to 0.27 didn't kill my mappings, so it should be fine for you as well.

/u/qwertpoiuy1234509876 best thing to try is install the dell power manager and try out quiet setting here's the link: https://www.dell.com/support/home/uk/en/ukdhs1/drivers/driversdetails?driverId=0X5N4&osCode=WT64A&productCode=xps-15-9560-laptop

EDIT: my recommendation, update the bios, there have been numerous fixes (biggest one having to do with key presses if you experienced that) but i know people here and other forums that have had numerous quirks with dell bios update, so up to you OP

EDIT2: Just saw that you already have power manager installed, you might want to check your temps (use HWinfo https://www.hwinfo.com/) as well as task manager, something might be using your cpu/gpu excessively. One other thing you can try is changing the battery power mode (click on the battery icon and you will see a slider, move it all the way to the left for a minute or two) after switching to quiet mode.

EDIT3: as mentioned before the fans will be on regardless (at least that has been my observation) when you have an external display connected (either using hdmi or usb-c DP) or if you have a usb-c device connected.

Cool!

• Plug laptop in with AC power
• Download: https://www.hwinfo.com/download.php
• Click Run, OK, whatever :)
• Click the Plus-icon to start logging (Logging start as seen in screenshot here)
• Give filename and click save
• Game for 20-30min
• Click stop logging.
• Post/upload file here :) If too big I can give you my email

Thanks a lot!

Just a word of caution: though I myself have elementary OS on my XPS, there will still some minor tweaking to be done when installing linux. Also, you will be missing out on some "recently developed technology" (Miracast/WiDi) or will be in very early and buggy state.

Download ThrottleStop from TechPowerUp. Their download site has the signed version. Other download sites do not have this version.

If you are still having problems, rename the ThrottleStop folder. Also try running OpenHardwareMonitor. It also uses the WinRing0 driver. Once OpenHardwareMonitor is running, try starting ThrottleStop.

https://openhardwaremonitor.org/downloads/

If this does not work, try using the free version of Avast Antivirus. Windows Defender is overly aggressive. Once it puts the WinRing0 driver on its bad list, ThrottleStop will not start up. If you get ThrottleStop working again, you can try going back to Windows Defender.

Something's not right, it's a laptop, it can't possibly have 8 slots. Try checking your Dell order info, it should tell you in the config section how many sticks you have. Or download CPU-Z and check under the SPD tab.

It would be great if someone with a 9560 could boot into Ubuntu using a USB thumbdrive and report back their experience.

(https://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop/create-a-usb-stick-on-windows)

Things to look for would be whether drivers are working (wi-fi, bluetooth, SD card reader, etc), OS crashes, general anecdotes on how good the trackpad work in Ubuntu, battery life at reasonable brightness/load, whether switching between the gtx 1050 and integrated graphics is working, etc.

Could you please boot your 9560 into Ubuntu using a thumbdrive (link below), and let us know how it goes (drivers present, doesn't crash, trackpad is responsive, sound is ok, etc)?

https://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop/create-a-usb-stick-on-windows

1. Download a Windows 8.1 .ISO file
2. Download Rufus
3. Make a bootable USB
4. Make sure you have backed up all the files you want to keep
5. Go into the bios at startup and select the bootable USB you created as the boot drive
6. Install Windows 8.1 and recover backup

Here's the original on Shutterstock.

You might be able to email the artist and work something out rather than licence it from Shutterstock. Your cheapest option on there would be to pay $30 for two images.

I don't dual boot. I have a Windows 7 VM for windows related stuff. I barely fire it up now.

Pro tip For Uni learn LaTeX looks weird at first but for term papers, reorganizing section numbers and automatically citing a source from a universal bibliography, incorporating graphs and math equations. You can't beat LaTex.

If I did a dual boot and if I did game, I'd do 512 GiB and 512 GiB (500 GB each). But since I don't game I'd do 768 GiB Linux and 256 GiB Win (750 Linux 250 win if 1TB = 1000 GB). The 32 GB is for the RAM

The XPS 15 is not really that small. It's only a little bit smaller than the MBPr 15.

I think that the claim of the size only works with the 13.

Here you can see the difference http://socialcompare.com/en/tools/compare-sizes/xps15-vs-macbookpro-15-vs-xps13-33il3uu5

I use AutoHotkey, and this script: (enables three-finger tap as middle click)

#NoEnv ; Recommended for performance and compatibility with future AutoHotkey releases. ; #Warn ; Enable warnings to assist with detecting common errors. SendMode Input ; Recommended for new scripts due to its superior speed and reliability. SetWorkingDir %A_ScriptDir% ; Ensures a consistent starting directory.

#Persistent #SingleInstance Force

; AutoHotkey hooks ;#InstallKeybdHook ;#InstallMouseHook

; Capture the 3 finger click which is sent to Windows as Left windows + Shift + Ctrl + F22 #^+F22:: Click Middle Return

here's the one I use

I've been running a 1080p display with Ethernet and a Logitech mouse and keyboard. Should work just fine.

Just posted on my other answer. This one. $30

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZVKTP53/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There's also the alternative method if you already have a big enough extrrnal drive and a USB stick.

Using Macrium, just image the existing disk to the external drive then create the Macrium boot media on the USB stick. Swap in the new drive, boot in through the USB stick and then get the image off the external drive and onto your clean one. After that just extend the partition. Then you'll also still have a copy of the image on the external drive should something happen. I personally do full images of my boot drive as backups.

Also, I'd actually recommend this adapter as it does both SATA and NVMe. I own one and can vouch for it working with both types of SSD.

And no screw either. That is fine I’m going to order one from Amazon for $23.80. M.2 SSD Heatsink

HDMI 2.0 supports 4K at 30Hz. You may need a Ultra High Speed (HDMI 2.1) Cable to reach 5K.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-48Gbps-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B08MSWMXT4?ref_=d6k_applink_bb_marketplace

Does the monitor have display port? DP is better at higher resolutions so you might try that instead

According to Amazon (US) it looks like it could be out here in July/August: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Inspiron-Touchscreen-Wireless-AC-Keyboard/dp/B07GW74B6N

The link says Inspiron but the page is for the XPS 17 Intel 11th gen model# XPS9710-7265SLV-PUS

Took a few pics which might help explain how I moved the HDD to the top. The arrow points to the back of the case that has just enough space for the back of the HDD case to hook onto and the front is secured by two zip ties. You will need Silverstone Tek 300mm Ultra Thin, since the cable supplied by dell is not long enough to reach the HDD.

Take one of the other screws, and find a bit that is smaller than the middle part of the screw, less than the threading. Put it in the center and drill slowly, and support your arm so the weight of the drill doesn’t suddenly pound through once you do get through.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCNX53G

On my Inspiron 14 I’ve mounted this HyperX. It’s the same frequency and slot. It works great. Link: HyperX Impact HX432S20IB2/8 Memoria 8GB 3200MHz DDR4 CL20 SODIMM https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07BGLYTVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_PSBBEZ5YBSX7NW2GTD8H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/asdfgh5889 and u/Crypto-Hero . The viewing angles are fine, it does not compromise text or images or colors. With regard to color accuracy, the only difference is that I need to increase the brightness from 0 to 3 presses up.

​

This is the product: Amazon.com: 17" Anti Blue Light Anti Glare Screen Protector for Diagonal 17 Inch 16:10 Screen, Screen Protector Fit LG Gram 17”, Reduces Eye Strain Block UV and Reduce Fingerprint(14 1/2 x 9 1/16).: Computers & Accessories

Which model is it? Assuming an out of warranty device, and is working without any issues, you could get the upper case/Palm rest panel replaced.

Eg: <em>https://www.amazon.com/Laptop-Replacement-Parts-Inspiron-Palmrest/dp/B07FX9ZKF1</em>

This might not be something thermally conductive, but an electrical isolator, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Electrical-Thermosetting-Adhesive-50-Inch/dp/B000UE46LK

OEM manufacturers usually cover sensitive electronics with insulating tape to prevent shorts or corrosion of exposed contacts and also to keep them in place.

Unlike the sil-pads used for thermal conductivity on chips, for better cooling where there’s no heatsinks (like over some nvme chips).

Do not worry! Just open up the laptop yourself. What is that not dangerous. Trust me I am just 16 years old and have opened up my laptop. I saw dust in the fans and it looked rusted. So what to do.

1. Refer this manual Dell Latitude E7250 Owner's Manual
2. Open page 26 and follow the steps
3. Then apply quality thermal paste on the processor like ARCTIC MX-4 - Thermal Compound Paste - Carbon Based High Performance - Heatsink Paste - Thermal Compound CPU for All Coolers: Amazon.in: Computers &amp; Accessories on the CPU but a drop and then spread it over the cpu and then place all the things back.
4. Do you hear the fan?
5. If not undervolt the cpu but little risky

It's annoying that Dell didn't include the copper heatsink or mounting screw for the empty slot on the 9500 like they did for the 9700. I used this one, fits and works just fine, remember that you'll also need a M2x2 screw for it.

Well I was in the same boat as everyone here and have had a useless brand new 2TB M.2 sitting in its box for the past couple of weeks. I've followed this thread since then and kept looking around for a solution. I'm happy to say I found the bracket today. I bought this as well as the copper thermal plate that is close enough that I can make it work. Here's the link to the bracket. Quantities are limited, though. (6 left as of date of this post)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LT8R63T/

Open Windows Device Manger and look for Bluetooth.

Bluetooth is pretty common/standard in Latitude laptops but not so much in Optiplex desktops.

USB Bluetooth adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1SZCY6/

The dell service manual (search for PDF)

• Qualcomm QCA61x4A 2x2 AC + Bluetooth 4.1 (non vPro) • Qualcomm QCA6174A XR 2x2 AC + Bluetooth 4.1 (non vPro) • Intel Dual-Band Wireless-AC 8265 2x2 + Bluetooth 4.2 (non vPro)

just get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Dual-Band-Wireless-Ac-8265/dp/B01MZA1AB2

ignore that jargon https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CNVi

Since it works intermittently - I would try to replace cables first (e.g., for DP - something from Cable Matters or other reasonably recognizable "brand" rated for 8K 60Hz, so it supports even newer DisplayPort 1.4 for the future: example). Updating drivers and firmware later, if it doesn't help (but with any firmware - careful not to brick the device, e.g., WD19TB firmware is upgradable but takes a couple of minutes - have to keep it going and not disrupt the process; if the dock is not under warranty consider skipping firmware update if you never did it before...).

It's relatively easy to figure out a config that should work by specification, but when something intermittent happens or weird bugs - hard to figure out without experimentation.

see my thread here regarding memory.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/4eiced/upgraded_xps_15_9550_to_32gb_ram/

a 3rd party reseller has it for 126 on Amazon now. its 128 directly from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/CRUCIAL-TECHNOLOGY-32GB-16GBx2-CT2K16G4SFD8213/dp/B015YPB8ME/

memory installation was a breeze. you will need a T5 torx screwdriver for the screws around the edges and a philips starhead for the two screws under the small magnetic panel in the middle.

Hi, I am looking to buy the newest Dell XPS 13 Ultrabook 9350, and I am going to buy the non touch FHD with i5 and 128 gHz SSD and 8GB ram.

Does anyone know why it is 100$ less on Ebay than it is on Amazon?

Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-DELL-XPS-13-9350-13-3-FHD-InfinityEdge-6th-gen-i5-6200U-8GB-128GB-SSD-WIFI-/301861781866?hash=item46485d416a:g:TlUAAOSwnLdWrjb5

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Ultrabook-InfinityEdge-Bluetooth-Refurbished/dp/B01BKXQ1FS/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466317806&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=dell+xps+13

Thanks!

I actually got it from Amazon. Ordered it last Friday and quickly noticed that it was pulled. Not sure if it's a inventory problem, because the device certainly works. I'm on day 2 without a single issue.

Alternatively, they have a single display version for users that won't ever need more than the standard extended display.

I bought a DA200. I love it. $50 today on Amazon.

The only issue I had is the power to the USB type C would cut out after a few min when on Wifi. For some reason the Wifi power effects the USB type C port. I set the power to %50 to be safe (I've heard %75 works but I don't need it) and now 0 issues. I spent too much time trying to figure it out.

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Adapter-Type-Ethernet-470-ABQN/dp/B012DT6KW2

https://www.amazon.de/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Port-Kompatibel/dp/B01C316EIK

this is the first result on Amazon (Germany)... just search for usb type c to ethernet or something like that on the Amazon page of your country, I am sure you will find something

I cant find the 8265 either... but a ton of Intel wifi cards with all kinds of different names. I have no idea what the difference is.

For example this one is the best selling one on Amazon Germany https://www.amazon.de/WLAN-Mini-PCI-Express-INTEL-7260/dp/B00N7474CS/

and there are A LOT of different ones... this seems to be yours though https://www.amazon.de/Intel-8260-NGWMG-INTEL-Dual-Wireless-8260/dp/B0197W86IE

This issue can be easily remedied by adding 2 small clear rubber bumper strips (<$5 on Amazon) toward the edge of the keyboard palm rest area, which effectively fills the gap.

I noticed this issue while researching the computer, and applied the bumpers as soon as I received my laptop. I'm not a very careful person; I pick up/carry the laptop by the problem area all the time and have yet to damage the screen in anyway. The only downside is sometimes you'll get a smudge mark on the screen from dirty bumpers, but that's not really an issue.

Dell should have recognized this issue during R&D and added simple factory bumpers as I described, but all in all it's not a difficult problem to fix yourself. However, Dell actually did fix this design oversight in the new 2016 versions by making the keyboard and screen completely flush. See factory image here: http://i.dell.com/sites/imagecontent/products/PublishingImages/inspiron-13-7368-2-in-1-laptop/laptop-2-in-1-inspiron-13-7000-pdp-polaris_module-05.jpg

The bumper strips I bought from Amazon are no longer listed, but these 2mm feet bumpers should work just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Bumpers-Small-Diameter-Thick-Sheet/dp/B003F092P6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1470438026&amp;sr=8-1

For sure, I agree with you on all points.

It's mainly that Firefox hogs the memory and the laptop CRAWLS.

This would work? Amazon