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You might be able to crack open the external hard drive and put it in a hard drive enclosure, or put it in your PC to see if it works. The ENCLOSURE that your portable drive uses might be broken, but the hard drive might NOT be. If you hear it spinning and trying to power up, then you still have a chance at recovering the data.
http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=92&name=External-Enclosures#
There are some(a lot) at microcenter, too. In case you live near one and need to do this for the ease of mind immediately.
I'd go with the Mega Jumbo Rainbow Afro Circus Clown Adult Costume Wig, personally. You need all the surface area you can when it comes to these things, so as to reduce heat most effectively. Plus, the wide color variety is particularly eye-catching, which is an oft-overlooked feature of custom builds.
turns this into a suggestion thread
You should get prices from sources like pricegrabber or other sites as well, newegg has this card for the same price, but also has a mail in rebate available.
Also, if you ever feel up to it, It'd be cool to see the same thing for CPUs as well.
Another solution is to build your own external HD.
Assembly is rather simple to do, and you get a external HD that you can be confident in that is what it should be: free space for storage without any nasty little surprises from Western Digital's suppliers/subcontractors.
linked items chosen for illustrative purposes only.
Here's some advice: If she has a job, set up three accounts, a joint one that you both contribute into which pays for things like rent, cable, food, and an individual one that you each use for your own stuff (computers, tea cozy's whatever) This keeps things nice and simple, you can't bitch at each other for splurging on something when it's your "own money"
If she doesn't have a job, then set up two accounts, one for the stuff you share (rent food, etc), the other one for your own stuff.
Also, pick up this Samsung Spinpoint 7200 1TB drive instead of the WDC. This drive is very popular on r/buildpc and is cheaper now than the 640GB WD black
Yes.
Avoid RAID5 like the plague, use RAID10. (why?)
Use ECC RAM. (why?)
Avoid SeaGate, their quality has gone down significantly over the years.
A 650W PSU? For what? 300W (such as this) should be more than enough if you're not getting a graphics card.
Most motherboards have a built in RAID controller which should be sufficient for your needs. RAID cards are extremely expensive.
>Might be at least handy to get a list of 2-3 models in your price range then search for them on newegg or something at least, which was the plan.
Yeah, I think this would be a good use case.
Maybe another feature could be linking to reviews of the cards on multiple sites?
Also, it looks like you could fairly easily redirect to a Newegg search like so:
A note about motherboard RAID controllers: they're crap, particularly in a server setting. You will get much better performance and reliability with a dedicated RAID card. You also get the added bonus that it won't "forget" your RAID configurations if you reset/flash your BIOS.
Also, while some dedicated RAID cards are expensive (~400$ for a good Areca card), you can get some fairly decent RocketRaid cards for a fraction of that price. See link.
The WNDR3700 is pretty flexible and feature packed. Two antennas (one 2.4GHZ, one 5GHZ), and a ton of features. Plus it runs DD-WRT. Plus the DD-WRT wiki says it has one of the most powerful antennas they've tested.
To be fair, it's a all in one, which most people will be unable to build themselves, with decent parts crammed into a small place and made to not overheat.
Top it off with the fact that apple makes(sells?) a damn fine LCD, that is leaps and bounds over the one you listed in performance. Hell, it runs at 2560x1440. The one you listed? 1920 x 1080. Lets take a peak at a monitor that's actually comparable. Oh snap, look at that, one almost the same, and one higher priced than apples.
Hate for their shitty business practices, but most of the hardware complaints are obsolete these days.
I may get downvoted, but couldn't you put two quad core i7 Xenons on one of those dual processor Xenon motherboards and come up with 16 total (virtual+physical) cores? I'm no computer expert so I may be way off.
edit: processor
motherboard
(Yes, I know the i7 is faster in most applications, but not $800 faster, not even close.)
You have a socket 1156 i5 processor with a socket 1155 sandy bridge motherboard.
check out this combo instead
and you have triple channel memory you'll only need 2 dimms of ram (or 4) for an i5 processor
✦✦✦✦✧ XBOX 360 Wireless Headset
Pros:
-Other players' voices come through much stronger than on the wired headset.
-Lightweight, easy to use.
-Being cord free is very convenient.
Cons:
-You can't speak softly into it. If you're going to speak, use at least a normal tone of voice, simply because of where it picks up your voice.
-You cannot use it while charging. Normally this isn't a problem because I leave it plugged in when I'm not using it, but I keep my wired one around just in case. Hasn't been a problem though.
-Expensive. As other reviewers here have stated, $50 is a lot more than a $10 wired mic which will do the same job.
Other Thoughts:
Overall I'd have to give this product 4 eggs. I'm only nocking an egg off for the price and the fact it can get a bit finicky at times. Works just as advertised and if the portability and convenience are worth the money, you can't beat this product!
You may want to consider a Linux software raid. Or buy a backup raid controller in the event the first one dies. RAID configurations are often controller specific, there is no promise that one controller can read another's data. If the raid controller dies and the hard drives are still functional, then you may be SOL unless you have a raid controller that is compatible. Buy a major brand motherboard. From my understanding, sometimes it's beneficial to buy hard drives from different manufacturers. Logic being that the same model hard drives made from the same manufacturer will possibly die at very close times to each other. And you may want to try looking for a 45W Athlon II newegg is currently sold out: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103901 It's a server computer, as such it will be neglected and shoved some place, accumulate a metric ton of fuzz and dust inside of it. A 45W processor will be a bit more tolerant to neglect, and will use less electricity. Also, 650W is a bit overkill. Get a 400W (or so) reliable 80%+ efficient PSU. This antec one is a good idea: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371023 End result is a computer that will use minimal electricity, even a basic UPS will keep it running for awhile.
Scouring Newegg tells me you can get a dual G34 (Opteron) board for around $500 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813151221), plus two bottom-of-the-barrel Magny-Cours CPUs (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819105266) for $275 apiece. You'll still be on the hook for a case and memory, but you should be able to manage that with the $500 you've got left in your budget.
Improving the processor will cost you dearly, though. Next step up is nearly double the price.
WoW and Sims aren't bottlenecked by your CPU at that tier of processor (and really won't be for 2 years either). I would just grab a 955 BE ($10 gift card if you order it today http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808) and spend the money you save on a better graphics card.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116775
If you can'd find two people to sell your other copies to, let me know, I'll buy em.
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/howtos/how_use_your_windows_7_upgrade_disk_fresh_pc
I got a Buffalo G300NH for $70 a few months ago, to replace a Linksys WRT54GS that finally bit the dust. It comes stock with DD-WRT installed. So far it's reliable, and the wifi coverage is better than my old Linksys.
I'm constantly hearing complaints about the Audiology line, they really aren't any better then onboard sound, and in some ways are worse.
If you really want a dedicated soundcard, go for an ASUS Xonar card.
dual cpu, 4 cores each with hyper threading. To the OS (and casual user) it "looks" like 16 cores. However, if you are bothering with all that why not hexa-core dual, (which would be 12 real, and with hyperthreading "24"!)
Edit: If I had the money (and wasn't waiting for 2nd Gen high end i7s) I'd get http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188070 load it up with two Hex-cores, fill it up with a full set of 4G sticks of RAM (48Gigs of ram? FUCK YES) triple SLI. Why? because it would be fast as shit, I'd run triple 30in LCDs on it.
$27.
(ATI did a good job keeping the active adapter thing quiet, didn't they? I'm stuck with a 5970 that needs SIX adapters.)
Be brutal? Alright I'll try.
That HDD sucks balls and so do you!
But seriously, there is absolutely no point to buying a 2.5" HDD unless your case specifically needs it. The fact that you have a full size ATX board leads me to believe you have a larger case.
You can get a Spinpoint F3, twice the size, for a few dollars more.
The motherboard you have linked is not triple channel, yet you have 3x2GB DDR3 sticks. I'd say either get 4x2 or 2x2 to take full advantage of the Dual channel.
It could be okay but it's insulting that they sell it for $35 shipped when you can get a new one for $42 shipped. That's not even 20% off.
If you put triple channel ram in a dual channel system it should still work but it won't operate in triple channel so you just wasted extra money on nothing. Assuming this is your board:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131647
If you see the line in the specs that says "Channel Supported: Dual Channel" that means it's only dual channel which means you're better off getting ram in matched sets of 2 rather than 3.
Yeah so, there's a whole bunch of really non-helpful posts here so I'll give you some actual advice.
I'm not sure on the type of hard drive apple laptops use but its kinda irrelevant. The best possible thing to do right now is to ignore anybody who says anything about a freezer, that will do more damage than good. Secondly you're going to need access to another computer for my trick to work and thirdly you're going to need about 30 bucks.
I've gone through many a failed computer and hard drive due to my clumsiness and the best solution to getting as much data off the drive as possible is to buy an external hard drive enclosure. These retail for about 30 bucks or so in stores but they can be found as cheaply as 5 or so bucks on newegg.com
To use these bad boys, you take out your hard drive and put it into the enclosure, then using the enclosures usb wire, hook it up to another computer, if it works then you can simply go into my computer (or whatever) and drag and drop the most critical files first onto the host computer. Double check of course to see if they are corrupted.
If the disk just doesn't wind up try sitting it at different angles, holding it with your hand, and all sorts of odd placements. Unfortunately I don't know of any data recovery softwares that are actually worth it so the best I can do is clue you in on the hard solution.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104178&Tpk=mx%20518
I've had this for 5 years and it still works great. No programmable buttons, but it's cheap, well made, smooth action, and it fits your hand pretty well.
Even a decent pair of non-audiophile headphones (read: not overpriced) will provide proper bass reproduction and be fairly linear. For example, the Sennheiser HD 280 PRO and Sony MDR-V6 are both decent cans that can be had for less than $100.
They were on sale at newegg when I ordered them for 160$ each, at 180$ now
I sold my old Dell IPS panel before I bought these so I only spent about 150$ to switch to this triple monitor setup, they are great monitors for gaming with just a tiny bit of backlight bleed on the edges, nothing noticeable unless you are looking at a pitch black screen. If you do decide to mount them on your wall like I did make sure you get them lined up with your eye level or you might have some small issues with viewing angle since they are TN panels.
Is there seriously something wrong with just the standard Wii classic controller? The new 'pro' one is pretty weird, but the original felt like a pretty faithful recreation of the nes/snes gamepad, sans the added joysticks of course. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16878190189&cm_re=wii_classic_controller-_-78-190-189-_-Product
Being a major company doesn't stop you from being wrong. That's not how dual core works.
This is a quad core 3GHz processor. Each core runs at 3GHz. No one calls it a 12GHz processor.
What you want is a TV tuner here is a list of usb tv tuners available from Newegg.
ninja edit: personally I like Hauppauge, which seems to be the general consensus of the internet.
The 5770 will run incredibly well at 1280x1024. This is not a challenging resolution for modern cards. It's a great card that does well even at higher resolutions. For you it'll be excellent.
You can usually find them for as little as $100 after rebate.
For $130 you can get a slightly better GTX 460 768MB.
I can't see any point in going beyond this.
You need to do a little homework if you expect to build your first pc.
Your CPU is socket 1155 while your mobo is 1156...
First the cpu: I reccomend this over 2500 as this one is unlocked and can be overclocked for only a bit more money. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072&Tpk=2500k
Next the Mobo: Oh wait you cant get an 1155 mobo right now. When you can get a Asus p8p67 maybe?
The psu: You want a full size psu with more than 300w and a pcie cable.
Wait until April unless you are super desperate. Research sandy bridge and what 2500k is vs 2500.
Two things that stick out to me on the Power supply and motherboard. Do you really need a 890fx motherboard that can do 3-4 card crossfire? 850 watts is overkill for this build as well.
This XFX 650watt PSU/6870 GPU Combo would save you about 80 bucks. This seasonic made 650 is more than you'll need for this build and xfx makes better videocards that come with a lifetime warranty.
This Antec TruePower 750 is also a great option, Seasonic made just like the corsair you have chosen.
Also, I don't think its worth 20 bucks for the 965 phenom, compared to this 955. I would pick up this 955 BE/Asus 870 evo combo The 955 has .1ghz less stock, and will overclock to the same speed. This would save you about 90 bucks and you'll still have a great overclocking motherboard.
That SSD has pretty good gb/dollar, but I would get a sandforce based ssd for the best performance possible. You'll probably have to pay more, or get a smaller drive. They're not really created equal.
8 gigs isnt' really neccessary for gaming, but its a decent price for the memory. I'd recommend 4 and use that dough towards a 6950 or an i5-760 system.
If you take the savings I suggested, it can either go into your pocket or placed into a 2GB 6950 which can be modded into a 6970.
Get this and you'll be able to plug it into a usb.
Do this. I went from what you were trying to do for the past couple of years to this:
It is waaaayy smaller, cheaper, and easier to use. The HDMI hooks right into my amplifier and passes video and audio. Works really easily. Just dont forget to buy the ram and HDD for it. It runs windows 7 playing 1080p MKV files flawlessly. Oddly enough the default windows media player works better right out of the box than VLC and MPC.
Agreed on the HDD, but the GTX 460 1GB and 6850 trade off back and forth in benchmarks. A faster clocked GTX 460 1GB will be ~$200, at which point you might as well grab a $200 6870. Not knowing the cost of the 6850 OP is looking at, it might be worth checking out the Gigabyte Ultra Durable 6850 since it tends to be priced pretty well and is a higher binned chip.
Hey, I didn't say I would DO it. And mITX boards are great because they are low power and generally quiet (the latter may depend more on the PSU). That doesn't change by having an oversized case.
But yes, I'd bet this is temporary on the OP's part, but I'd love to hear the backstory. Not sure what you mean by less expandability. Looks like the most Sugo models have one hard drive slot.
Your iBook has a PATA interface while I believe most SSDs are SATA. It looks like there are some SSDs with a PATA interface, but they seem to cost significantly more.
My suggestion is to upgrade the RAM if you haven't already. This is very easy install on your iBook. Replacing the HD is much harder.
The ones they are talking about are the new "sandy bridge" chipset i3/i5/i7s I think, which all have a 4 digit number that starts with a 2, like this i5 2500
I've been in the industry for years, and I've never had good results with Rubies-brand wigs. The last wig I ordered fell apart after just a week, and their customer service didn't make it easy to get a replacement. Forum Novelties, on the other hand, has never let me down. Their product is consistently high quality for a reasonable price.
If you don't have a monitor with HDMI then you will need one of these cables to use VGA. Then the audio will depend on the speaker setup
If your motheboard supports AM3 you should go pick up this today.
If you have an AM2 mobo, which is what I suspect, and you have to get a new mobo as well then your best option by far is the new Sandy Bridge i5. It'll OC to 4-4.5 on air easily and is a hell of a deal.
Wouldn't it be better to get a cheaper router that he can get two of?
Set it up to use WDS on the A band. So you can roam seamlessly between the two and always have a good signal.
I have deployed around 50 HP black and white laserjet printers company-wide. Not a single one has given me an issue since we implemented them 4 years ago.
It's kind of annoying, because it seems the majority of desktop screens are matte, while the majority of laptop screens are glossy. The opposite would be far more sensible in my opinion. I can keep my desktop in a dark/low-lit room and in that scenario, the vibrance of a glossy screen could be fully enjoyed without worrying about annoying reflections and glares on the monitor. Whereas with the laptop, I generally use it in areas in which I have no control over the lighting, so it's more practical to have a matte screen so I don't have to hassle with glare when outdoors or in a bright airport.
Anyway, my little rant aside, it's kind of hard to find glossies lately. Especially at the lower price points. I found the ASUS VG236HE, for $350. Pretty high, but keep in mind, it's also 3D. Asus makes good monitors, from my experience.
There's also the ASUS LS248H, which I believe is cheaper but no longer available on Newegg. You may have to buy it used somewhere.
The cheapest I could find available is the Gateway FHX2300.
I hope this helps. Hopefully someone else can locate deals better than I can, but there's three solid options for you. Note, not all of the ones I chose are exactly 24", but they are all the correct resolution and latency.
The other commenters here are missing the part where it's a slim PC. Regular full sized video cards will not fit in the case.
The bad news is that the more powerful video cards do not come in half-height size. The good news is half-height video cards should work just fine with the power supply you already have.
With only an Athlon II X2, a high end video card would be a waste of money anyway. The CPU just wouldn't be able to keep up.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102829 We put this video card into HP Pro 3000s at work all the time, which is a very similar PC to what you have. It is Tom's Hardware's pick for best GPU under $50 right now.
It's not the best card out there by far, but it'll work for most games. You'll be able to play most games at 1024x768 (4:3), 1280x720 (16:9), or 1440x900 (16:10) at medium level graphics. Anything more than that, and you'll be needing to build a new PC.
> Don't like apple mice? "tough."
Too bad Newegg only has 409 Mac-compatible USB mice.
That is an old first-generation Phenom. Newegg doesn't even stock it these days. You should get a Phenom II X4, such as the Phenom II 955 or Phenom II 965. With that, you'd need DDR3 instead of DDR2. (and it should be about $50 for 4gb, not $100 for 4GB)
The WD Caviar Green is slower than normal drives, so I'd recommend avoiding it unless you need low-power / low-heat for a media center or something.
I agree with collider85; do not get an Ultra-brand PSU. You may not even need such a large wattage - what graphics card are you getting?
Also... why tigerdirect?
And check out the Logical Increments PC Buying Guide to help get the best performance for your budget.
Looks great, but you can get this Samsung Spinpoint F3 for $10 more. Twice the capacity and it's a faster hard drive than the Caviar Blue.
Either would do fine in a home environment. Also, there are companies like Leviton that make residential-friendly racks, outlet boxes, covers, etc. specifically for Cat-5 and home networks.
A USB to 2.5/3.5 IDE and SATA adapter will get you the most mileage.
I don't know how many times I would have been stuck in a bind without mine. It makes repair work almost painless. Most of the time, I don't even have to go through the hassle of removing the drive from the case to service it.
No, a waterproof case would also, obviously, be airtight. To build such a beast you would have to use liquid cooling and run the lines into the case, then mount the radiator outsi....it's best just not to worry about waterproof cases.
Just get a normal case without a top intake. They have some that would be extremely difficult to get liquids inside from an accident. This and this have a design that would take effort to get water on anything important. Probably not the size you want though.
~~It's a Trilby (with one l) and~~, the left/center is actually a fedora. a Trilby has a much much narrower brim and the back will usually curve all the way up and almost fold over.
ninjaedit: from another post: this is almost the Trilby shape (never mind the material), though the brim's narrowness is a bit exaggerated.
Rather than SLI'd 450's how about a single 5870? The 5870 will outperform the 450's on average while costing the same, using less power, ad creating less heat. You could also then buy a motherboard with a modern chipset.
Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH is my recommendation. Inexpensive for what you get, has a USB port, the switch on it is gigabit, and it ships with DD-WRT or is easily flashed to whatever other flavor of firmware you'd prefer.
Razer Nostromo (AKA Belkin Nostromo n52te)
I wish big retailers like Newegg would publish their RMA numbers by brand and model. That would be the real way to know these things. Of course they would piss a lot of people off. I think what you would see is that every brand has some bad models and the non top tier brands, like ASRock and BIOSTAR make a lot of very reliable products.
This ASUS mobo has comparable features to the BIOSTAR I picked but it will increase the cost by $48. That's 11% added to the total build. I can't justify that large a price increase just by brand reputation.
Same with the Antec PSU. I completely agree that it is better quality but cannot recommend paying a 56% premium over another PSU that reviews very well.
Buying based on reliability and brand reputation is a perfectly fine option but you usually pay a significant premium without gaining any performance. In these builds I do I'm specifically trying to pick decent quality parts that offer a good value. As a consequence they are usually not the absolute most reliable choices.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102888
Behold, the Radeon 5870 with 2 gigs of ram. Generally regarded as the best card on a Hackintosh system.
Currently, this is the best Radeon card you can buy with an official Mac Pro... and even that one comes with only ONE gig of ram.
http://store.apple.com/us/configure/Z0M4?mco=MTg2OTQ5OTk
There was a table of all compatible gfx cards somewhere... looking for it now.
Rather than the 9500GT I'd choose the 5670. It outperforms the 9500 and uses less power. It requires no additional power connection other than the PCI slot so it's just plug and play. Depending on the resolution you play at the 512MB versions will perform identically to the 1GB versions. As is you should be able to add the 5670 without upgrading your PSU. Make sure to pop off your side panel to see if you have room for whichever card you choose.
Look at this stock GTX 580 with a 772 MHz clock.
Now look at this stock Radeon 5770 with a 850 MHz clock.
Wow, a Radeon 5770 is more powerful than a GTX 580!!!
The GTX 580 performs better for $500.
So does the HD 4650 for $28.
As you might guess these span a wide range of performance possibilities. You will need to be more specific about what you are looking for in gaming performance. List some games you want to play, what resolution you want them to run at and how high the quality setting need to be. Then we can suggest an appropriate card.
To start, your mobo and your CPU are not compatible. You have an 1155 CPU with an 1156 mobo. You'll be hard pressed to find an 1155 mobo right now and they're not set to start coming back out until late this month/early next month. You'll need to either wait for the 1155 mobos to come back out (they're the P67 boards) or swap out the CPU for an 1156 CPU, such as the i5-760.
Nix the GTX 460 SE. It performs roughly the same as the GTX 460 768MB, but is more expensive. I'd take a look at one of these GTX 460 768MBs. You could also get a 1GB GTX 460 for the same price after MIR.
I'd take a look at one of these heatsinks instead. They're better heatsinks, quieter (for the most part), and right around the same price.
FYI: Those aren't for your motherboard; they're for the rear IO back plate(like where a VGA/DVI cable screws into, for instance).
These would be for a motherboard's backplate.
Solution: Logitech Bluetooth
Here on Newegg
edit: unintentional rickroll when I pasted the wrong address
Better XFX 6870 and better 650W PSU for $13 more. Go for build quality, not wattage when selecting PSUs. RAIDMAX is a name to be feared(avoided, at least) when it comes to PSUs -2 year warranty vs 5 for the XFX. The combo also doubles the MIRs.
I'd presume this Kingston HyperX RAM is really just as good as what you've picked out, but much cheaper. Saves $30 total; another fat MIR.
Rest looks good. A few more dollars less and you'll have a hell of a machine!
650W is probably much more than you'll ever need, even if you decide on a second 6870, or a third.
Yes, laser printers draw significant load when in operation. This is why we're advised not to run them on battery systems.
However, if a breaker is tripping, that circuit must already be running pretty close to capacity. Might be time to evaluate what you've got connected to which circuit. The Kill-a-Watt meter is a great tool for measuring power draw.
If you buy within the next 4 days, you can get the Logitech G500 for $57 with free shipping. I have it and love it.
To be honest, you can save a lot of money by building them part-by-part. If you trust a stranger on the internet, I'd be glad to put one together for you for the cost of parts+shipping, and you can PM me if interested. I do this for a lot of friends and family for fun. A few weeks ago I built a high-end system for a friend for about $1300. It will run anything he can throw at it. But I'd need to know your budget.
Beware, the computers you buy in an electronics store like BestBuy are going to be slightly overpriced, difficult to work on when they break, and come with a lot of "bloatware".
You're looking at ~$500 for a very basic computer. If you like, you can give me a budget and I'd be glad to pick out the parts for you. Many computer enthusiasts use newegg.com due to their customer service, ease of site navigation, and cheap 3-day shipping.
Alternatively, you could buy them netbooks (like an ASUS eeePC) for about $350 and you can hook them up to the monitor. A netbook is designed to be cost effective and ultra portable, so don't expect them to be able to play HD video or video games.
So, here are my questions to further help you:
- What is your budget?
- Do you want a laptop or a desktop?
- What do you think they will mostly use the computer(s) for?
EDIT: how do you like this? The specs are just about middle of the road as far as a PC goes.
I made the change to the 470
Anyone here a big NVIDIA fan? I'm kinda weary of ATI after some problems in the past - christ I remember the exact card - a 9800pro from Sapphire - thing fucking melted on me 2 days after the warranty expired.
You don't at all need to pay Apple a ridiculous amount of money for a replacement drive. They choose different manufacturers for different models that they have worked closely with and have approved, but they are no different than what's on Newegg. For example, my MBP came with a 250GB Seagate Momentus 5400RPM drive, but I replaced it with a 500GB Western Digital Scorpio Black 7200RPM drive with no problem whatsoever just last week. As an added bonus, I was happy to get a nice performance increase from the higher RPMs.
Assuming the drive is completely dead and you aren't going to hire any type data recovery service for it, you'll need the OSX install disc to get back to square one. Follow the instructions from the other posts about how to replace the drive, then boot to the install disc and away you go. There's really nothing more to it.
It is a low profile, PCI, 4xDVI video card aimed not at video gamers, but at business professionals. It may be somewhat overpriced but nothing insane.
Do you guys really not understand that?
Here is a similiar card but the same manufacturer, minus the low profile and single output. Still in the same ballpark. It also just so happens to be the cheapest 4xDVI card available at NewEgg.
The card you posted is not actually a 32-bit "Conventional" PCI card, it's a PCI Express card. That said, I agree that the difference in price is more likely due to the LFH interface than the bus interface.
edit: Here is a closely comparable PCI card for $90 less, with the only significant difference being the number of displays it can drive (2/4). I think this would have been a better choice to illustrate your point.
Reviews on Newegg for the motherboard have people saying they used an Athlon II. Athlon IIs are basically just Phenom IIs that run at lower clock speeds and have no L3 cache.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138138
Also, OEM CPUs come without a heatsync.
LIPCBG. Mainly focusing around 'Good' to 'Excellent'.
With AMD you can usually spend a bit less on the CPU/motherboard and still get great performance, letting you spend more on the GPU, possibly SSD, storage, etc.
I suggest this PSU, though, OCZ MXS 600W Modular - $40 AR. You won't find a better modular for a better price. I've looked, too.
Really minimal.. Don't know if I'd trust that power supply.
Would switch the hard drive for This for a noticeable gain in performance vs. $10~ extra.
Motherboard (6150) is pretty ancient but it'll do for your price range in the scheme of things. best luck to you building!
The primary thing is the graphic card.
For the same price on that modest list you can now get the more powerful GTX 460 if you don't mind mail-in rebates.
The vid card is definitely your weakest link.
Speaking of links you would do well to get this card. I did the research and it is compatible with your board.
Edit: This card isnt top of the line, but it is a very solid improvement for a good price. I'd be happy to suggest a different card if you are willing to spend more money on it.
$45 on ebay or if you're wary about buying it there $50 on newegg both with free shipping.
Save up for a few months and get something entirely new, your current computer isn't worth spending a penny on.
$470 for a great mid range computer. It'll play anything and probably rock your socks off after years of using that ancient desktop. Compare that against $125 for the only decent AGP card that can handle modern games. By doing an incremental upgrade on a dead-end system you only get yourself maybe another year out of it if the aging components don't crap out first. It's a lot of money for a short-term stopgap solution that will only end with you doing a similar from-scratch build in a year or two anyways.
If that case is identical in size to this Storm Scout http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119196&cm_re=storm_scout-_-11-119-196-_-Product
You might have issues fitting a 6950 GPU into it.
WD Scorpio Blue 160GB 5400RPM PATA Drive
In laptops, the only real consideration is a) the interface, and b) the physical height (aka thickness) of the drive. The above drive would do you just fine - going up to 250GB would cost you an extra $15.
If you have a USB to SATA/IDE cable, like this, you can hook up your internal hard drive to another computer. It will act like an external hard drive. Then you can try running the virus scan.
Or just reformat the machine. Honestly at this point I'd say reformatting it is your best option. You can also use the dongle that I linked to back up your data to a new computer if you like.
It sucks this is currently out of stock. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176144&cm_re=hp_1920x1200-_-24-176-144-_-Product
I just got one, it is a beautiful monitor. Swivels and tilts any way you want it to, also.
> I'm sure you know newegg.com - and I'm certain it exists in Europe
Unfortunately, it does not:
> Does Newegg.com ship internationally? > > Newegg.com does not currently ship internationally; we only deliver to locations within the United States and to Puerto Rico.
There are all kinds of nice looking, cheap cases out there. Like this one.
Just put your pc in a nice HTPC case, put a TV tuner card in there, hook up an antenna, and use Win7 Media Center for DVR and channel guide.
COOLMAX is a not a reputable power supply brand and i wouldnt trust it with a high end gpu like the 570 (the psu the guy linked you too hasnt even been reviewed yet on newegg that should tell you something) , also wattage rating is not nearly as important as the amperage rating of the power supply's rails, i believe cpu and gpu are run off the 12V rail, so the higher rating on the 12V rail the better. for a system like yours i'd go with something like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020&cm_re=corsair_power_supply-_-17-139-020-_-Product if you go to the details page you can see that it says +12v@53A which is quite high compared to the aboved linked psu which has 18a on 1 of the 12V rails and 18a on the other
edit: x16 refers to the number of active lanes on your pcie slot, yours is most likely x16, the only time this would change is if you are running dual graphics cards on a lower end chipset in which both pciexpress slots would likely be changed to x8 due to the limitations of the chipset
Your CPU and mobo are not compatible. You've got a socket 1155 Intel chip and a last gen AM2+/AM2 mobo. You'll need to match your CPU with the socket, but you'll be hard pressed to find an 1155 mobo right now or in the coming weeks. You can wait for the 1155 mobos to become available and/or for AMD's Bulldozer to come out. If you want to buy now, you'd be better off going with an AM3 CPU, such as a Phenom II X4, and an AM3 board or getting an i5-760 and an 1156 mobo.
The HDD you picked out isn't bad, but it's slow. I'd spend $10 more and get the Spinpoint F3.
Raidmax makes junk PSUs. For the money you're spending, I'd look at one of these 600w PSUs or this 700w Xigmatek PSU. They are all much better PSUs for around the same price or less after MIR.
Considering cost is not an issue, why would you limit yourself to a 32 inch? You can get a 32 inch 1080 p LCD tv on newegg for $270 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889611019 Which is less than i paid for my computer monitor 4 years ago... 42 inch LCD tvs in 1080p are like 500 or so at costco now. To answer your question about 1080P being worth it, you will notice the difference. Between 720p and 1080p the resolution changes from 1366 x 768 to 1920 x 1080, if you're a computer gamer you will understand the difference this can make. Since you don't save a lot with the 720p models, why bother?
If you are the DIY kind of person, I can recommend this Rosewill external 3.5" case (with a fan for 24x7 operation). $35
Pair it with a Samsung F3 1TB 7200 RPM drive. $65 I own several of these and they are great.
$100
Or for slightly more, you could do a Samsung 1.5TB 5400RPM drive. $70
I've purchased and used all three components. The external case is both USB and eSATA. The fan has a switch on it which is nice if you don't want to hear it. It's not the most visually appealing, but it's functional.
I have to say, these are some really good suggestions, especially on a budget. Not entirely sure about the Hitachi hard drive but the Samsung Spinpoint F3 is just awesome.
If OP still wants a good, more "future-proof" motherboard with some expansion options, and if there's any room left in his or her budget, I'd go for an 870 board like the MSI 870A-G54 , the ASUS M4A87TD EVO, or the ASRock 870 Extreme3.
There's no real reason to get the Phenom II X4 965 over the 955 since they both overclock to the same wall on air and .1GHz isn't really worth $20 more. I'd save ~$40 and grab the Phenom II X4 955/Asus M4A87TD Evo combo. It gets you a better mobo and a just as capable, easily overclocked CPU while saving you money to put elsewhere in the build.
Since you saved ~$40, I'd put it somewhere where you'd see a marked performance increase. Accordingly, I'd swap out your GPU and PSU and get this XFX 6870 Black Edition/XFX 650w PSU combo. You get a much faster GPU and an equally good, modular PSU out of it.
If this is a gaming build, 8GB is completely unnecessary. I'd grab one of these 4GB kits instead. Don't forget to use coupon code DM15A02US for 15% off.
Not brand bashing, I'm just tired of everyone saying Corsair is the best, that they're king, or that they shit gold. In essence, I'm tired of the fetishization of Corsair. They sell good PSUs, they're just often overpriced and you can find better for the same price or less. It's the same thing with AS5, it's been fetishized amongst builders and people buy it or recommend it based upon brand alone, regardless of the fact that there are just as good or better PSUs for the same price or less.
> there are other lines other than the builders line that you can look at.
I know. I just mentioned that their Builder's Series is rubbish because people buy Corsair for the name, even when not everything they make is good. The TX, HX, and Professional PSUs are all great, just typically expensive. The one you linked to is one of the few I'll recommend because it's actually reasonably priced when it has the rebate bringing the price down to $70. That said, if someone were to buy a PSU in the 650w range today, I'd tell them to grab one of these Antec or XFX PSUs. All of those PSUs I linked to are Seasonic OEM, save for the Antec Eartwatts, which is a solid Delta PSU, the same Seasonic who makes Corsair's good PSUs. All of those PSUs also offer some advantage, be it price, higher efficiency, being modular, or not having to deal with MIRs.
Like I said, Corsair makes good PSUs, I'm just tired of people fetishizing them to the point where no other PSU manufacturer is considered.
You can't go wrong going AMD. You mentioned photoshop so the X4 will help you alot there. I would recommend grabbing a low-end video card anyway, integrated graphics just leave you entirely too limited IMHO. Maybe a 5450 just to give you the most options and bang/buck ratio. Memory and HDD look good.
Your case/PSU combo are totally unnecessary for this computer. In addition Rosewill makes less than spectacular PSU's and tend to fizzle out after a few years of light work.
This gigabyte case looks respectable and is cheap and this Antec PSU will do everything you need and nothing else. Perfect for an office machine and photoshop.
That was my understanding. You can't even use i7s in the EVGA Classified SR-72, even though it's an X58 mobo.
That said, for what OP is describing, I think a Xeon would probably be a better option and I almost wonder if it wouldn't be better to get something like an X58 mobo, a hex core i7, and triple up on the GTX 580s. For some calculations, especially the kinds seen in particle physics, a GPU can be orders of magnitude faster at the calculations than the CPU.
ATI's drivers have gotten better from what I've heard. I haven't owned an ATI card until just recently when I built my first rig with a Radeon HD 5850, but I've had no driver issues at all.
Both the 560 Ti and the 6950 are fantastic cards, and will run pretty much every game you throw at it at max settings in 1920x1080 or 1920x1200 at great framerates. This XFX 6950 is $290 but has a $10 rebate if you're interested. Also note that it can unlock to a 6970, basically giving you a $375 card for $85 less. ASUS, MSI, and Gigabyte are also great brands for ATI/NVIDIA cards, but if you want to spend less the GTX 560 is by all means a great card as well. In addition to the brands above, I've heard fantastic stuff about EVGA's cards when it comes to NVIDIA.