From my research it appears your little brother has a Lenovo N21 Chromebook. If you're willing to repair it yourself (guide on how to do so), parts are about $31 (on amazon). Otherwise, find a local computer repair shop, LCD screen replacements are very common.
download MBAM and MSE
run full scans then uninstall that "CA internet security suite" and that should fix you up.. report back if it doesn't.
You can usually have quite a few SVCHOST's running, This does a decent enough job of explaining, the one area of concern would be if the filepath to the SVCHOST (which you can see by adding IMAGE PATH NAME column via the view menu and selecting select columns) was not shown in system32 as this may indicate a virus
Google uses multiple processes for Chrome, this is why if one tab crashes it doesn't take down the whole browser but just the tab, there are various other processes for other chrome components (I have 35 running at the moment!)
Try using AdwCleaner from the makers of Malwarebytes. It's a free program that will remove adware and other junk like you're currently seeing on your PC.
Here is a link to AdwCleaner:
If all is lost, don't forget Windows 8.1 has a pretty painless "return to factory settings"/reformat option. Check out this link for details.
It may matter (but i'm not sure) how you got XBMC on the XBOX. Did you softmod or use a modchip?
Either way, in builds as far back as I can remember, XBMC on the XBOX has a native FTP server that's turned on by default. As long as everything is on the same network, you can open up a file browser on one of the computers and go to FTP://IPADDRESSOFTHEXBOX (username and password are xbox by default) and dump everything you want on the F or G drives.
Run rkill and then do a threat scan with Malwarebytes. Report back if you're still having trouble. You might have to rename rkill.exe to rkill.com to get it to run successfully.
The computer is infected with malware, specifically a "fake antivirus". To remove it follow these steps:
click "start" then "run" type in --> msconfig.exe press OK, go to the startup tab and uncheck everything except the antivirus - reboot
Install malwarebytes anti malware from this link let it update then run a full scan and remove anything it finds.
Install superantispyware from this link, update it and run a full scan, remove anything it finds]
reboot computer... hopefully the fake AV is gone and you can now follow the below instructions to make the computer 50% faster.
Hello! If you cannot see any drives in the bios, it is possible the drive is either not connected properly, or it may be dead. We can verify this by going on another computer, and getting a USB. I would recommend downloading Hiren's (https://www.hirensbootcd.org/files/HBCD_PE_x64.iso) and then also downloading rufus(http://rufus.ie/).
Once you have a USB that is empty(EVERYTHING ON THE USB WILL BE DELETED) launch rufus, and make the Hiren's ISO bootable on the USB(if you need more specific instructions feel free to ask).
Once the USB is bootable, plug it in that laptop, go into bios and see if the bios sequence is now available.
I'm not much of a software guy, mostly a hardware one. But to check if your RAM is faulty, you can download MemTest86 onto a USB stick and boot from it. It will scan your memory, I highly recommend to scan it for 12 hours+.
You can also download HD Sentinal to check your drive that is freaking out.
Do you only have one internal drive?
So no SSD?
How old is it?
You should do these tests to at least know that it's not an hardware issue.
If you are still having problems after Mwb run, try using Combofix first Download link
I always recommend using something like CF as it stops a lot of the bugs that run as a service at boot time.
Whenever you do get it resolved - look into Shadow Defender. You can give him write access to documents and to desktop and everything else gets reset to fresh on a reboot.
Yes any USB hub is fine.
Some even come with bonus ports like this one with ethernet. Just buy any USB 3 hub that has whatever ports you need I'm sufficient quantity.
Scan , look for the least crowded space and or lowest signal of other wifi's and put it on that channel . same with the 5ghz also .
I've used the ISOs from here before without any problems. They appear to be the only legitimate source since Microsoft stopped offering them through the Digital River site.
EDIT: On further investigation this website is actually just posting links to the original Digital River downloads so they are definitely safe. As mentioned above though you can't just upgrade, you'll have to do a full reinstall of Windows and your programs.
ImgBurn. Use the mode "Create image file from disc", and save it to a location of your choice.
Incidentally, ImgBurn is one of the best burning programs out there. Everyone should have it installed.
Yes your processor is slightly better performing. Dont see a reason to switch to that, though the 'Dual Core' is an older chip style than 'Core 2 Duo' so it may use some age based reason to suggest that.
I wouldnt swap though. Upgrade to an i5/i7 if anything.
Gentoo is fine if you have any reasonable level of intelligence. You'll definitely learn something from the process that you wouldn't get from just following a generic guide for a debian-type distro. Embrace the CLI.
Here is your new bible: http://www.gentoo.org/doc/en/handbook/
are the ones I can come up with from the top of my head.
have you tried this? http://rtechsupport.wikia.com/wiki/Virus_and_Malware_Detection_and_Removal
bleepingcomputers advises you to reinstall the os. as this is a severe backdoor trojan. http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/topic423063.html
I'd be inclined to backup, then set dban on it and wipe that disk totally clean. Then reinstall. I'm always suspicious of a PC post cleanup.
You could try the Sophos rootkit remover though.
The Sysinternals tool Autoruns is very good for revealing odd things that shouldn't be, although it does rely on some experience to use. I've used it to kill off the occasional Browser Helper Object or automatically running thing.
5G has got nothing to do with your wifi frequencies.
Your wifi has two frequencies, 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. 5 GHz is not the same as (cellular) 5G on your phone.
Download an app called Wifi Analyzer to see which Wifi channel you are on and how crowded it is.
If you live somewhere with a lot of neighbors who are all on the same Wifi channel your wifi strength (on the 2.4 GHz freq) can be very low.
So change your wifi channel to something less crowded.
You'll have to do that in your router.
You don't have any friends with computers?
Seriously it's not that hard. Download the .iso for the version of windows you get a serial number for from here.
Burn with this:
Yes it is. You can also check if wake on keyboard/mouse is available, what may also be the cause.
EDIT: Link to disaibling wake on mouse in Windows.
Spot on, you can see in the picture though that HD Audio is connected so it should be working. HD Audio has replaced the older AC'97 wiring/connection which is why there are two plugs coming off that same cable. HD Audio or AC97 connector
>I will routinely get a pop up message that I am running low on memory...
This could be caused by memory leak in one of the programs you're running.
Try using http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb896653.aspx to view memory usage and disk I/O to verify that nothing is being written/read.
Other than that do what /u/Shaft_In_Africa says.
Have you run a virus scan in safe mode?
Download MalwareBytes on a computer that you can use stick it on a USB stick and run on your brothers computer in safe mode and see if it brings up anything, if it does then it will also get rid of it for you.
Within safe mode are you able to access start menus, my computer and the like or is it also a black screen?
Did you try all these methods
Remove any/all external devices from your computer and see if the errors continue.
Update Firmware on any SSD drive that you may have installed
Then open a command line and type this
CHKDSK C: /F /R
Then restart the computer
After that is done and the system is back.Open another command prompt as admin and type the following
Once that completes then go get this
When the DPC Watchdog Violation occurs on your Windows PC, there was a minidump file that was created and stored at C:\Windows\Minidump folder.
That should allow us to see what program/device is causing it (maybe) or at least a little better idea.
And a video with a few other methods
You need to take ownership of the files you want to copy: http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc753659.aspx
Note that if you intend to boot from the old laptop's drive in future, you should avoid doing this on Windows's system files.
Based on your first image, the display artifacts are appearing in the firmware, even before Windows loads.
I'm sorry, this isn't a driver issue. Your graphics card has likely kicked the bucket and the fact that it happened after a driver update is only a coincidence.
You *may* be able to get it to work semi-properly by installing software such as MSI Afterburner and raising the power limit, as well as reducing the video RAM clock speed; but given that you aren't even able to boot into Windows with the Nvidia drivers installed (MSI Afterburner and similar tools need the Nvidia drivers to work) that may be impossible.
Thank /u/Ecacoin. /u/Y4ss1n I did find the driver on driveridentifier and successfully fixed my wired connection I owe the world to you guys.
You back up and reinstall 64 bit. Problem is all the digital river download links got pulled by Microsoft a couple months ago for Windows 7 so it's a little tougher to find.
You're going to need to find this dvd:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64Bit: http://msft.digitalrivercontent.net/win/X17-58997.iso (note this link is dead)
SHA1 Hash value: 6C9058389C1E2E5122B7C933275F963EDF1C07B9
The SHA1 hash value means we can essentially get it from anywhere and run the file through HashCalc to get the same SHA1 hash value. Value not the same? Don't trust the download. Value the same? Good to go. You might find it under a different filename but that won't affect the hash value.
Control Panel > Default Programs > Associate a file type or protocol with a program
scroll down and find .torrent, double-click it and change the default program to your correct client.
Either that or just open your bittorrent client, hunt through the settings and set it to handle .torrent files...assuming that got taken over by TornTV.
If you need a little more fine-grained control of the filetype association, try this.
As to CCleaner, it lists applications based on its findings in the registry. The only real option for removing the application from the application list is to uninstall the application, such that CCleaner will obviously no longer detect it. Theoretically you may be able to remove whatever it is that CCleaner is detecting to remove it from the application list, but it's quite likely you'd break your application in the process. If you'd like to see what CCleaner is detecting, run:
"C:\Program Files\CCleaner\CCleaner.exe" /export
Then go to the program folder and open winapp.ini, scroll to/search for the item you want to inspect and it will show what it has detected (usually an entry in the registry) that caused it to add the application to the app list. Note: It is possible to add custom entries to the CCleaner app list using the ini file, but not remove them. CCleaner just auto lists whatever it finds.
Yeah I believe your Graphics card is simply not powerful enough. The Intel HD graphics cards are low end cards so sadly it may be that you can't play this graphically hungry game =( Everything else is up to spec so that is really all I could imagine it to be.
Laptops aren't upgradable either so you're pretty well buggered with regard to that game sorry!
Edit Try using this tool before you purchase any more games to help you with your decisions http://www.systemrequirementslab.com/cyri/ it installs a small program to report what you're running and lets you know if your computer is up to scratch on the games. Best of luck to you! Hit up /r/gaming if you want to know about some games suitable for your machine, they'll know better than I do.
When I come across this or similar situations I generally use Tweaking.com's free Windows Repair AIO. At the repair step, just select only Repair File Permissions and run it. (If you feel like there may be lingering registry issues, you may also choose to select Repair Registry Permissions.) This tool looks a bit complicated and questionable, but it's really quite simple and works well consistently in my experience. Always in my toolkit.
If you have Windows enabled to save your crash information in the minidump folder try using BlueScreenView to see what driver or system file caused the error.
As you said, it could be an issue with your SSD since there is a known firmware bug that affects Sandforce SF-2200 based SSDs.
http://www.linuxliveusb.com/ check that out and see if it helps. Basically, you'll be installing a bootable OS onto your USB drive. If it's Linux-based, Windows-based viruses aren't really a concern. Using this bootable environment, you can get into a desktop environment and then plug in the found drive to look at its contents.
You can use something like clamAV or clamTK to scan the drive for malicious contents, and as long as you don't have WINE (a Windows translator of sorts), even if there's something nasty on there, it's unlikely it'll cause any harm.
A disclaimer being that if some jerk is jerkish enough, they could install some Linux-compatible malware on there. In which case, it'll only infect your USB drive and you can just format it or throw it away.
> I also ruled out the possibility of overheating. One time I booted up, from the computer being off for hours, and played a game. It shut down within minutes
That doesn't rule anything out. Parts get hot quickly, certainly within minutes. The LEDs don't mean much either. Use software like SpeedFan or HWMonitor to get actual temperature readings. And not just your GPU -- your CPU or motherboard could be overheating as well.
Alright then, first thing to do is download testdisk onto anything NOT that drive. Put it on your boot drive. Next, we're going to need a place to store the recovered file. Which means you're going to need another 3TB drive to drop it onto. Is that available?
Yes, as long as you haven't done anything to the disk since then. Ideally you've unplugged it.
Get TestDisk and go to town. If all you did was run a diskpart clean then your actual data is still there, the partition table is just hosed. Here is a complete guide.
Best of luck!
Just re-install windows or whichever operating system you are using. It is good practice to do a fresh install once every 3-4 months, mainly for Windows. After reinstalling windows, use https://ninite.com/ to quickly reinstall your common applications.
Also, the main thing people say when I recommend this is, "but I'll lose all my data." The simple response I give is that you need a external hard drive to store all of your data on. Otherwise you will lose all your data eventually when the computer dies on you since all of them eventually do.
I'll point out the same thing can happen to your Linux system if you do not take care of what you install, same as on Windows. Your operating system is as secure as you let it be.
Without counting a VM you will be very limited in terms of games, look at this: protondb.com/
For VMs you will probably want to setup GPU passthrough, your OS will run off the iGPU and the VM with the dGPU, for more reading I recommend this: https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PCI_passthrough_via_OVMF#Isolating_the_GPU
On the DE question, DE is desktop environment such as Gnome (ew), KDE and XFCE and many others like Cinnamon. Manjaro offers the four I mentioned and many more: https://manjaro.org/
For distro avoid Ubuntu based distros. They have ancient kernels and drivers. To quote the person who made Linux gaming a thing, "Stable" in the Ubuntu LTS/Debian sense doesn't mean bug-free, it means that they don't change much. And that's good for some workloads, it absolutely isn't when you want to game on the thing since the infrastructure around it is in active development. And you're throwing all of that overboard when using 50 different PPAs anyway.
I wanna say this really isn't worth the effort, stick to Windows but just be careful of what you install, and if you were going to run said games, you will still be putting whatever personal data you put in the VM at "risk".
I recommend you to just be careful of what you install, but if you want to continue just stay away from Ubuntu and shit based off it, maybe try Manjaro but again, not worth it for what you're saying.
Hold down the power button for 10 seconds or so and it will shut down.
Turn off secure boot - and turn on legacy devices in your bios (you may only have one of these options)
(You probably already did this)-see the bottom of the post for more UEFI/BIOS settings.
CrunchBang is a great way to learn linux but for a first time user I would strongly suggest a more filled out version of Linux (I use Mint)
Then I use this for burning ISOs to my USBs
I always had issues with Unet-- this always worked for me.
Run it as a live CD first to make sure it has all the drivers you need (-network, sound etc) then once you're sure it's good install from the icon on the desktop (of the live CD)
I found this list of settings for your UEFI/BIOS-copypasta
Security -> Secure boot -> Disable secure boot
Startup -> Boot (press enter) -> Set priority order
Startup -> UEFI/legacy -> UEFI only (necessary for preventing errors like "efibootmgr: EFI variables are not supported on this system" when using grub-install)
Startup -> Boot order lock -> Enable (necessary for avoiding Windows to change it and prevent you from entering the BIOS again if dual-boot is used)
Security -> Virtualization -> Intel Virtualization Technology (necessary for avoiding errors listed by dmesg)
Security -> Anti-theft -> Computrace -> Permanently disabled
Recently people have been saying not to use CCleaner due to them being bought by Avast
While they did retract the update people were complaining about ( https://www.theinquirer.net/inquirer/news/3037138/avasts-piriform-withdraws-ccleaner-update ) honestly I would use an open source alternative like bleachbit: https://www.bleachbit.org/
But why does he need it in the first place? He said he already moved the important files over from the original hdd?
Going off the wording of the OP, it sounds like there are 3 different drives he’s using.
1-his friends hdd that needed to get pictures/files off, then reformat.
2-his drive in his PC being used to store his friends files temporarily while he reformats drive 1. And drive
3- a friends external drive used for Xbox storage. If my understanding is correct, drive 3 is unnecessary and he doesn’t need to bother reformatting it so that he can use it to store personal files in case “something happens during the process”.
It sounds like he has already moved his friends personal files onto his own disk (2), and he just needs to reformat disk 1. As long as you don’t touch disk 2 in disk management, you won’t have any issues. And if you want more formatting options than disk management provides for disk 1, you can use a program called Rufus. Like I said, just make sure you’re selecting disk 1 when you format and you’ll be just fine.
It's funny because I helped another person today with taking ownership of folders. [by the way, this makes things MUCH easier]
I can't even get to view files or folders. I'm locked out from the root :|
Just to add something: Do the first part that gaxor mentioned (hook up the drive in something else). If you still can't read the data and really need the files, you can try data recovery software. If the drive isn't totally damaged (which it may be), you may have a shot. I've had good luck with the products below.
The freezer may work too, but only as a last resort. Once they are cooled then warmed up again, condensation forms and everything gets wet. Game over. I'm with gaxor -- I don't like it, but sometimes it does work!
Could try Combofix and HitManPro and SuperAntiSpyware. Download Autoruns and have it verify signatures. Maybe try online scanner for Kaspersky and run Avira.
You may need to boot to safe mode. What you do is repeatedly press F8 and select "Safe Mode With Networking". Go here to learn more about this.
People have gotten good luck running combofix. Go here to learn how to properly run Combofix.
Make sure and take your time in reading the instructions so you don't feel lost when fixing the issue.
Reply if you have any more issues.
To restore the desktop icons, you need to open regedit and navigate to:
There will be a regkey that has NoDesktop. Right-Click on it and select modify. You need to set the value to 0, instead of a 1, and close down everything.
Open Task Manager and kill the explorer.exe process. Start a new task and type explorer.exe to restart the explorer shell. This should fix the wallpaper and desktop icons.
There will be some icons missing from your Start Menu. Go here and download the unhide.exe. You need to run that and this should restore the files back to normal.
Now this still won't restore your Programs list, Quick launch and some desktop icons. The virus moved those icons to a folder called "smtmp" on the TEMP folder.
On the website above (where you download the unhide.exe) shows you how to restore the icons back to its original place.
%Temp%\smtmp\1\ => %AllUsersProfile%\Start Menu
%Temp%\smtmp\2\ => %UserProfile%\Application Data\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Quick Launch
%Temp%\smtmp\3\ => %AppData%\Roaming\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Quick Launch\User Pinned\TaskBar
%Temp%\smtmp\4\ => %AllUsersProfile%\Desktop
If you need further help, please feel free to reply back.
They are probably hidden. Search Folder Options in your start menu, go to the view tab, and toggle on show hidden files etc etc.
You are also going to need to remove a virus, as system restore most likely did not remove it.
First download and run Rkill which will hopefully kill any malicious running processes. I usually use the one labeled iExplore since viruses won't block that name. Whether it finds a running process to kill or not, the next step is to download SUPER (just use the free version) and install that. Run a complete scan (usually a half hour) and then reboot when prompted. You'll be clean after that.
Now that you're clean, you need to unhide your folders. Right click a folder, hit properties, and uncheck Hidden. It's tedious.
It can be simplified with the command line, though. The basic command is ATTRIB -H "Full Path of Folder" /S /D
On my own computer I would type ATTRIB -H "C:\Users\Jake\*" /S /D where the * is a wildcard and can stand in for just about anything, and then I'd probably want to manually rehide my Appdata folder as it should be.
ATTRIB -H "Full Path of Folder" /S /D
ATTRIB -H "C:\Users\Jake\*" /S /D
I think you might have stumbled on something. Download drWebb's cureIT (read documentation for its functional options), then run it under Safe Mode & see if it catches something malicious...
Ref uri here ~ http://www.freedrweb.com/cureit/?lng=en
Deleting Chrome didn't need to be done but it's no problem. It looks like an extension that might have been installed by a website and you definitely want to get rid of.
First off, reinstall Chrome using Edge (if you have Win10 you should have Edge as another browser) by going to google.com/chrome and following the prompts.
Once Chrome is reinstalled open it up and go to the menu in the top right and go to "Extensions" and see if it's still listed as being installed, and whether it is there or not, you should then go get ADWCleaner as recommended by the other guy (link here) and run this.
It will do a scan, tell you what it finds, then there will be another button to remove anything malicious.
There is hope, if the files are very valuable to you i would suggest stopping fucking around with it and send it here : http://datarecovery.lc-tech.com/
If you don't want to pay to recover files this is the program to use : http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec
Does her flash drive still show up on the Desktop?
Does it give weird readings i.e. wrong size, unrecognized filesystem? (right click and get info)
In my experiance PhotoRec has worked wonders. If that doesn't work try one of these: http://alternativeto.net/software/disk-drill/?platform=mac
Please just visit https://haveibeenpwned.com/ and see where the person got the info from, and change the relevant information and setup two factor authentication
For the future, nothing should have the same password. Leaks WILL happen, you visit a lot of places on the internet, you can't expect all of them to be doing their jobs when it comes to your password, so you shouldn't.
You can setup a password manager like bitwarden where you can generate random passwords for all your accounts, and have a secure master password protecting them (under 2FA of course).
Before you do / put anything on the disk at all make an image of the disk with the following tool: http://www.osforensics.com/tools/write-usb-images.html
Choose create image.
Then you can try getting data back with https://www.piriform.com/recuva
If you can find the process the virus created, use pssuspend and then run malwarebytes. I'd go on ahead and download the whole Sysinternals suite here and use Process Explorer (procexp.exe) to list all processes and you could also use TcpView.exe to see if the malware is trying to "phone home".
I am not sure this is the best but you can use Pidgin http://www.pidgin.im/
With the OTR plugin
For pretty good security, OTR has been reviewed several times and continues to be developed on. No system is secure and should be treated as such however these two pieces of software should provide a good starting point.
Quickest solution: tinder.com on your phone's browser. Otherwise, it can be a nightmare of diagnostics ranging from software bugs to firewall blocks. Have you tried logging into Tinder from another phone while on your wifi?
Did a quick search through Canon community forums/a, and hit on this in the US:
>It is possible to stream with this camera. I have done it. Basically, you need to go into settings, turn off all items on display. Then, use a mini USB to RCA adapter to get a video output. The HDMI output only outputs in play mode (which is kind of annoying tbh) but it is possible to send an analog video signal through the mini USB as the manual indicates. I have tested it and it works.
>Here is a cord if you are interested. https://www.amazon.ca/Video-Audio-Cable-Canon-Camera/dp/B07JLXWWND/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Mini...
>Also you would need this if you are using a computer https://www.amazon.ca/UCEC-Capture-Device-Converter-Windows/dp/B07PS2TD9L/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywor...
>Edit: I should mention that the output does not have full HD. It's about 640p, not what it can record in unfortionately. Also, I forgot to meantion that the focus bar does stay, but it can be made smaller and moved to a corner. I covered this up with my powerpoint in OBS.
so one like this?
99% sure that's a busted screen. Call Lenovo to see if it's under warranty. If not, then you can purchase a screen for $70 on Amazon. And this video will show you how to take it apart.
Pretty sure there are just to standard sizes on the Dell power adapters. What are the model numbers on the new one you bought and the broken one?
Here it is cheaper on Amazon with Prime shipping:
Order a speaker, its worth every penny. Double and triple check that the front panel I/O is set up correctly. That is probably the most challenging part of a build tbh, or at least the easiest part to make a silly mistake. Once you are 100% sure you know which 2 pins need to connect to power on, and its still not working, get a screwdriver and use it to jump your PC. To do this touch them both at the same time with the screwdriver. This will eliminate the possibility of a bad front panel connection preventing startup. If jumping it doesnt start it, you know something else is preventing boot. At that point remove the GPU, HDD/SSD, Wifi card, anything other than RAM PSU MOBO and CPU. Try to boot then and see what happens. If you do boot you wont be able to see anything obviously, but then you know that it is a compatibility issue.
Oh, RAM. Check your ram. It looks like you have them in the 1 and 3 slot, this is the normal setup. Check your MOBO manual and make sure this is how they recommend setup. Then try 2 and 4, and just 1. Then try just 1 with the other stick. 1 bad stick of RAM will prevent boot, but BIOS beep codes will tell you that it is a RAM issue right away, so buy that speaker!
You need to grip the screw head straight on and try to unscrew it. Using a pliers with a flat head might make it easier. If you look at the amazon link below you will get the idea.
^ This. the course of action you should take is a conversation with your father. trust is the way to go between a parent and child.
if that fails, You definitely don't want to take advantage of an unlimited data plan on an Android phone (sorry iPhone users) by using Secure Tether to get un-throttled tethering: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.panjava.internet.sharing.tethering.mobile.hotspot.secure.wifi.securetether
you definitely don't want to get the MAC address of one of the devices that's not restricted and spoof it to bypass the Disney circle ("MAC Address spoofing")
Likely. Same happened with my GPU, and the card slowly got worse. While i didn't have the money to replace it at that moment, instead of rebooting i added a script to a keyboard shortcut that restarted just the gpu device:
USB does not equal drivers...
Here's what a cursory Google search led me to:
>Here is the MSDN technical article about the Bug check 101
>This stop code is a result of CPU became unresponsive and remains in a deadlock situation. That is CPU is not responding to any interrupts. About 80 % of the time, this issue is caused by a faulty core inside the CPU. On some occasions a faulty device driver can also make the CPU unresponsive and lead to this BSOD. So our first step is to fix known software issues. Please follow the below steps.
So you may be out of luck and your CPU is shot, but there's a few things you can try on that page.
Could the DVD-ROM disc drive be detected accidentally by the system as another class of storage device? If so, perhaps the indexing service is trying to access it.
Have you tried putting a DVD-ROM disc inside to see if this changes the behavior? What about running a program like Microsoft SysInternals' DiskMon to see if it shows you what is attempting to access the DVD-ROM disc drive?
You should be able to play it on lower detailed settings. You meet the minimum requirements as far as CPU and GPU. Your GF has less dedicated video RAM, but she also has a smaller display.
No one will be able to tell you for sure until it actually comes out.
You should know though, you are well below the recommended specs for your video card, but that's to be expected with a laptop.
The easist way to see where you fall in the GPU spectrum is with Tom's Hardware's GPU heirarchy.
Kinda sounds like it might be a driver issue, maybe network or video. Reinstall both?
You can download Comodo Cleaning Essentials. It comes with a process monitoring tool called KillSwitch. Open it and it will check for malicious processes.
Yup- sounds like someone has access, most likely via wifi.
Change your wifi password
Then block that device (or any device) from connecting unless you say so
You can access the command line in the installer and use DISKPART to partition the drive and make it GPT if you have a newer UEFI BIOS or MBR if you have an older legacy bios
This walk through is for Windows 7 but I pretty much did it the same for Windows 10. I had the same problem
Probably not the answer you wanna hear but:
Backup data, nuke drive, install from scratch.
The problem is probably that you don't have an EFI partition. You could try adapting this tutorial (basically just creating an efi partition and generating the data with bcdboot).
You might look into this about registering the .efi
In theory you can directly virtualize (a cloned disk image of) the existing installation: https://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Migrate_Windows
There are a products available, including paid ones, to do this for a variety of VM platforms: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physical-to-Virtual
But none of this will work if the hardware interfaces to his machinery can't function in the virtual environment.
This one is also good. If you're still having problems after Malwarebytes, run AdwCleaner. Also ComboFix and/or rkill. All of these are available from Bleeping Computer
My pleasure, that's what we're here for after all :)
It seems more of a nuisance rather than anything else, really. If you're seeing only this specific website pop up in your search results, do a scan with AdwCleaner for example - this is a stand-alone tool to clean adware, PUP and other browser hijackers.
It's possible that a driver you had on your system before the upgrade persisted that is incompatible with Windows 10, which is causing the crash. You could try doing a clean install of Windows 10, or possibly just a Refresh.
There is one more thing you could try. At the registry key: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\GraphicsDrivers, add two DWORD's named TdrDelay and TdrDdiDelay, and set both their values to 10. Then reboot.
Alternatively, I have a short batch script that will do this automatically for you here. Download and run as administrator.
check show all hidden / show for all users at the bottom, then click CPU at the top, if the top result has 0 CPU, then click it again so you can see what's using the most.
If nothing is using the CPU in the processes section, and graph in the Performance tab is still showing strong usage then download Process Explorer. It's a portable app made by MS, gives you a lot more details than Task Manager. If there's something using up resources and it's hiding, you'll be able to find it in here.
Unfortunately there's no "standard" stop code listed here. The format of them is "0x" with an additional 8 hexadecimal characters, e.g., "0x12345678".
Based on the event ID of 7009, I found this. Not really sure what it's trying to do, but increasing the timeout may stop the error. I can't forsee any side effects to this, as we're just increasing the time the service will wait. Maybe try increasing this value to 6000ms.
If you haven't done so already, run the memtest. Windows has one built-in, which is accessible by repeatedly tapping F8 when the system is starting, but I always use MemTest86+.
Watercooling might be overkill.
Get a huge cooler with heatpipes (I liked the Sonic Tower, but apparently it's obsolete), and a decent 12-centimeter fan.
Can you tell if the machine is actually booting? (Hard drive noises + flashing lights, and all that.)
If it's not booting, I'd suggest you work your way through this checklist.
I can't stand most tablets in any practical/work related setting. I need a laptop for portability since I do a lot of studying and research at different locations.
Also comparably macbooks have a much lower failure rate when compared to many other laptops by a decent margin.
Looks like an easy repair. Especially if you've done anything like that before.
Buy the screens on eBay or Amazon. They're probably around $20 each if that.
Could you try this troubleshooting:
right-click on a folder you would like to take ownership > Properties > Security > Advanced > Owner. Change owner of folder to your User account.
Try copy your files again. Does it work? If not, who is the owner set to? Also, what error do you receive?
Note: You can also try use this tool http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/add-take-ownership-to-explorer-right-click-menu-in-vista/ , which has worked for me in the past on Windows 8.
Try running Process Monitor. Run it right before you try accessing Outlook, wait for the connection to fail, then stop the trace and look through the trace log (you're looking for error messages in the "Result" column, and large gaps in the time stamps between each event). Process Monitor can log network activity as well as file accesses/registry key accesses, so try filtering the displayed output.
How-To-Geek has a new blog series on using some of the Sysinternals tools. Here is an article on using Process Monitor called Lesson 4: Understanding Process Monitor
Administrator mode is normally locked, but can be unlocked. Try this: Using Windows 7 Install Disk and regedit
The boot disk failure message just means that it can't find a disk with boot files on it. If you just put the new power supply in, then check to make sure all of the cables are secure and that the drive has both cables plugged in. Check the BIOS to make sure that it sees the drive. If the drive is working, but you still can't boot, then your backup/reformat plan is probably a good one. You can burn a Linux live CD or a BartPE CD running a portable version of Windows to copy your files to another drive.
If it turns out that you need to reinstall windows, you should test the drive first to make sure it is good. Most HPs have a drive test in the BIOS that is pretty good. If you want to use that Windows key that is on the sticker, you will need to get an HP OEM XP CD.
When MBAM is ran and finds problems it doesn't fix corrupted files that it alters. You might want to run Combofix http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/combofix/dl/12/ which can find even more and it will automatically fix the file system
Looks like files from an old installation as /u/alanthemanofchicago pointed out.
It should be safe to remove them with the Windows Cleanup tool.
Here are instructions.
This link has a similar problem , checking to see if the reason this is happening is cause I don't have the service pack installed.
will update if works
ADWCleaner is perfectly clean, legitimate software. I've used it many, many times to remove adware from people's computers. You can download a guaranteed clean version from here: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/
Go to windows update and View Update History.
Do you see a lot of failed updates?
If so try this.
Open regedit and find this key.
If you see UseWUServer
Delete it and reboot. Upon reboot run windows update. You might need to run it in safe mode. Be sure to update everything including optional updates.
You might also want to run a virus/malware scan.
AdwCleaner, Malwarebytes, JRT, ComboFix would be some good apps to run.
If you don't mind, run hijackthis first and post your log as a reply.
CMD , run as admin, type sfc /scannow
Update the drivers of the gfx card, mobo and bios
Tried scanning for a rootkit ? Roguekiller
Another option would be to look at your memory Memtest
Not necessarily - have you tried removing them from a command prompt? Follow these steps:
You were able to boot into Safe Mode with Networking, correct? This time, try booting into Safe Mode with Command Prompt and we can use that to fix things.
In the prompt, type this: net stop wuauserv
Press enter - this will stop the update service from running.
Then, type: dism.exe /image:C:\ /cleanup-image /revertpendingactions
This will revert changes for your updates - now restart your computer. This should boot normally (without going through the updates). Event viewer may popup with an error code but you can ignore that.
Now open a command prompt as Administrator - guide here.
In the command prompt type: net start wuauserv
This will now restart the Windows Update service so you can re-download whatever went wrong. If possible though, I would recommend creating a restore point here as well just in case the issue comes back.
Best of luck! Let us know if that works!
It sounds like Ubuntu rewrote the MBR. GRUB/LILO should (or at least in previously versions) be able to boot Windows (there are plenty of guides if you search GRUB and Windows), but if that's not working, i'd recommend following this guide:
It's not for Windows 8, if it doesn't work I would research Windows 8 and the bootsect.exe and bcdedit.exe options. I believe bootsect writes/repairs the MBR, while bcdedit configures the Windows boot manager.
What kind of budget are you looking at? Is weight an issue? How big of a screen would you like? How much video processing power do you need for games? I personally like ASUS. Look at something like this. and let me know what you think. We can give you pros and cons with more information. I'm just arbitrarily putting this machine out there as a benchmark.
Ah, yes. My mistake. I apologize.
I figured it was either LGA775, or the other slot type I mentioned earlier.
Another Newegg Search