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/r/LGOLED's
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/LGOLED:
![[Ultra High Speed HDMI Certified] Cable Matters 3-Pack 48Gbps 8K HDMI Cable 9.8 ft / 3m with 8K@60Hz, 4K@240Hz and HDR Support for PS5, Xbox Series X/S, RTX3080/3090, RX 6800/6900, Apple TV, and More](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41SKMp24UIL._SL500_.jpg)
![WHOOSH! 2.0 Screen Cleaner Kit - [New REFILLABLE 16.9 Oz ] Best for Smartphones, iPads, Eyeglasses, TV Screen Cleaner, LED, LCD,Computer, Laptop & Touchscreen - 16.9 Fl Oz Full Bottle + 2 Cloths](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41Dbxh4+QaL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/LGOLED:
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/LGOLED:
Sync for reddit
AnyMote Universal Remote + WiFi Smart Home Control
WiFiAnalyzer (open-source)
The most popular reviews in /r/LGOLED:
Download this (need android device with IR blaster) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=by.makarov.smarttvlgrc
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=by.makarov.smarttvlgrc
Press the instart command on the IR phone (not stop or service)
Input 0413 with the LG magic remote
Navigate to system 2 and change from user to engineer in NSU (dont touch anything else!)
Exit the service menu with the instart button again
Restart TV, eventually get a notification that the TV has new firmware
Download
Restart when advised. Turn the TV back to user after updating using above steps
>I've hung a TV that weighed quite a bit more than 77lbs with good lag bolts into a stud on one side along with 4 of these spaced evenly across the center and opposite. It's been 5 years and it hasn't budged.
>
>https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IBDKW/ref=asc\_df\_B0051IBDKW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312244160292&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16499540633781981180&hvpone=&hvptwo=&am...
I have 3 LG OLEDs (C7, C8, and C1) and I have run into weird network issues using either Wifi and Ethernet with both my C7 and C8 for various reasons.
Now I have long since start using AppleTV with both C8 and C1. But before I started using AppleTV, I used this 1Gig Ethernet dongle which worked great. You just plug into one the USB ports connect the Ethernet cable and the TV will automatically connect to it and when using the speeds within the Netflix app I was getting around 200megs.
Just get this! Hey man...Never use wireless unless last resort
So I believe with whatever newest firmware update for the tv, the usb adapters don’t work anymore. But this is what I use
I did - ended up going with a Sanus Mount and am very pleased with how slim it is. Given the ‘box’ on the back of the tv the brackets attach to, I don’t think it could get any closer to the wall.
This is the monitor
How do you tell what the vesa pattern is??
This is the wall mount I bought. I'm using it for both the 83-in in the living room and the 65-in in the bedroom. It extends, in case I need it to. Since I bought the TVs from Best Buy I got them to install them. I have to say, it was the best customer service experience I can remember having; maybe I got lucky. These guys mounted my flat cable boxes from AT&T to the wall mounts behind the TVs with plastic ties; I'm hoping they can do the same with the surge protector. If not, we'll play it by ear. I'm sure these guys will come up with something, if need be.
I don't understand the electrical stuff! I just made notes from my research online to get the joules and clamping voltage I needed.
Does your TV have an IR blaster? You can get a long 3.5mm extension:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K3WYDIE?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Then setup the TV to control all your OTT boxes.
I have a mini wireless keyboard that does RF with a USB dongle and bluetooth. I have the dongle in my PC and I connected it to the TV via BT. I can toggle between the two to control either or.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T13GLY3?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Yeah get a good wifi 6 router and you'll be able to have more devices connected. Will probably sort it out immediately.
And even if you don't need many access points (other than the one router) I would still buy a Mesh unit. They look a lot better, are way smaller and if you're into it you can buy one with a Smart Home Hub integrated into the unit to control smart house features at your home etc.
Have a look at this NETGEAR Nighthawk Mesh WiFi 6 System I found for you on Amazon. This is probably your best bang for your buck system.
Just buy an ultra high speed cable. I recommend this one from Zeskit. It’s certified and was first to be certified as ultra high speed.
You can stop auto dimming by using engineer remote
check it link below:
Zeskit Maya 8K HDMI Cable - Amazon
I personally use and recommend those cables for any HDMI 2.1 device. Just make sure to get cables that are less than 10ft for optimal performance. Good luck!
ah I see, that's tricky one... If you have something like this you could carefully pry it out
For those with the G1 how is the sound? I assume it's not the greatest based on the thinness(still havent set it up, waiting for a friend to come over an help) Im looking at cheaper to mid range sound bars and have come across the Vizio M series sound bar for a little over 300 bucks, has dolby atmos and is a 5.1 channel. Ill post a link below. Ive asked on r/Soundbars but will also ask here as from what I read some sound bars can have connectivity issues with certain Tvs, and would rather ask people with first hand experience with the same brand and/or model TV I have. Thank you all again, this is a great community.
This wont get you gigabit due to the usb 2 limitations but it will be multiple times faster than the 100mbps installed on the tv. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBD7NFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NV8DDXH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
​
this product to clean the screen
I bought TP-Link UE306
https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/gp/product/B09FDRMZ73
and its so unstable, running speed test and getting 30down, 200up, other timers 160down, 160up
Netflix won't boot, hbo works but quality on uhd videos are worse then wifi as soon as i play them
im on version 3.33.11 on lg c1 65"
I use this one for my own c1 77
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089MZ1FRT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You could also buy a third party stand, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Echogear-Universal-Stand-Wobble-Free-Replacement/dp/B07YN7VRK8/ref=zg_bs_14109851_6/144-9466105-6879055?pd_rd_i=B07YN7VRK8&psc=1
Does it passthrough 5.1, 7.1, and/or Dolby Atmos? I see several review comments of people only getting stereo. I have the below adapter coming in today that they seem to claim supports VRR and G-Sync, which I highly doubt but figured it was worth trying it. I'll provide an update once I have my system up and running.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2933L7T?ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details&th=1
Cable Matters 3-Pack 48Gbps Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084RFQPSP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought these for use with my C1 and I guess they’re good. I do still get random Dolby Atmos cut outs on my soundbar, but I’m not sure if that is due to the hdmi cables or soundbar.
Are zeskit cables worth upgrading from the ones I bought?
I just bought 2 of this working in Lenovo legion with 2060 and C1 55 inches. Working great 4k 120 Hz
I have to check the other cable in my other C1 65 inches.
I can vouch for the following 15ft certified cable from monoprice. No issues whatsoever running from an RTX 3070ti to an LG C1 @ 4k 120hz RGB.
Although I would recommend moving your components closer and using a 10ft cable as anything above 10ft can be temperamental. I just didn't have the luxury of doing so.
Look into power and line conditioners on amazon and around for modern reviews. I have an older Monster model. This way you can route all of your outlet stuff to the back of one, or at least all the important stuff.
Panamax seems to come up. Maybe look over there.
I don't have a link to the exact same one but anyone should do. example below:
This says it works, but cant be sure until you try. The problem ive seen is that when you use DP to TV and HDMI to receiver you only see the DP image which is a secondary picture, not main. It just defaults to DP instead of letting you select HDMI.
Best solution is HDMI to receiver, receiver to TV. But that means getting a new receiver that supports 8k/60 4k/120hz
I use this one! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NV8DDXH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
by far this one cleans the screen very good
I ordered this for my G1. It raises, and swivels. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07TK2KWVJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_dl_ARSZE82YY1SA6GVPK3C9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I won't receive the TV until Thursday so hopefully it works well. I just didn't want to mount my G1 to the wall, I'm surprised it doesn't come with a stand.
I use the Sanus stand for it. It's much better and more pragmatic honestly. Harder to set up but worth it.
I bought this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08CHBQ3QJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VKC3AW0X9J6HV2K5PE90?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The moving guys removed the stand and just covered it in heavy duty blankets and strapped it to the wall of the moving van. Was absolutely fine.
If you're moving it yourself. Just cover it in as many things as possible
I just wanted to chime in and share my experience because this started happening to me. My series x would play fine one day and then the next, black screen with no video or sound. Systems are connected to an Onkyo TX-NR6050. Is your Xbox set to 120hz? If so I think the cable is the problem. I got pissed last week trying to figure it out and after getting nowhere, I hit the A button and the game started for quick resume, video and all. When I tried to go back to the dashboard, black screen again. I was using a 2.1 cable which works fine when directly connected to the system, but not when going through the receiver. I bought a new cable that's 8k certified and have not had any more problems.
I bought this for the 55” ShopSmart Deals, Ultra Slim Tilt TV Wall Mount Bracket for LG 55 Inch Class C1 Series OLED 4K UHD Smart webOS TV (OLED55C1PUB) Low Profile 1.7 Inch from Wall, 12 degree Tilt Angle, TLT202151 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095XKSDTB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9HNB6E9Z7NRV07T29V5N
Well after many more decades of experience than yourself... Yes a $3000 7.1 setup via receiver is going to sound better.
However newer DTS/Dolby spatial sound relies on the peculiarities of human hearing and physics to modify the angle, resonance and interference waves that trick the ear into hearing sound coming from different directions then centre only.
I have tried a $300 soundbar with only front firing and allegedly dolby atmos (albeit only in processing). The $1200 JBL bar I have with 9.1 is amazing and rivals any 5.1/7.1 system I have heard or owned.
No it won't top the best wired multiple speaker systems but it definitely is a total Immersion experience with clear directions of which sound resonates from.
When a helicopter flies overhead it literally sounds like it comes from centre, to above to behind.
Amazing what physics and understanding of human hearing has achieved. Then again we are planning trips to Mars so this tech isn't that amazing in retrospect.
If the stud is centered only a vertical(single stud) mount would work but it would not give you the flush look like hanging a picture you'd have it protrude out about 1|1-1/2".
It's even less than that. On Amazon it is under $40 USD:. Roku Express 4K+ 2021 | Streaming Media Player HD/4K/HDR with Smooth Wireless Streaming and Roku Voice Remote with TV Controls, Includes Premium HDMI® Cable https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0916TKFF2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V8GKJNE3E1HCMV72MC4F
No subscription needed! You just plug it in, download apps, and enjoy the TV.
I bought one of these to lift my 65" C1 and it works perfectly. I was actually able to fit my soundbar under the stand, though obviously YMMV on that
The Office Oasis Dual Computer Monitor Stand, Solid Bamboo Supports 100lbs, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8N774Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_S6JTMJ9ETZXV75K5X0YQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The expansive above is a 25 meters cable, the cost is normal. From the pc I have this, that is cheaper than my other 2m hdmi cables, and it work perfectly https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07ZHGK5FL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_MTGYS79M6RZ55N3VS8KQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can get active cables that are long without issue. They are unidrectional and sometimes require an additional power source.
I have this works fine: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B081SGYK2Q/ref=pe_27091401_487027711_TE_SCE_dp_2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0919GTQS9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
That fixed the issue for me.
I bought a different pedestal for my 55” on Amazon that game it a much lower profile on my tv stand.
PERLESMITH Universal Swivel TV Stand / Base - Table Top TV Stand for 37-65 inch LCD LED TVs - Height Adjustable TV Mount Stand with Tempered Glass Base, VESA 600x400mm, Holds up to 88lbs, PSTVS13 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T72QG3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MV6NXR6ZB7K54EGMDVGW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah those are ok but if you want the full bang get a good 8k wire this one here is good Fusion8K HDMI 2.1 Cable Supports 8K @60Hz and 4K @120Hz Compatible with All TVs, BluRay, Xbox Series X, PS5 (3 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YF7QMNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_XGPWMBHEBMCF51JFNB2V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is recommended for all PS5 users with the LG C1
You keep mentioning USB 2.0 which is leading me to believe that you may have the wrong USB adapter.
This is one I bought from Amazon and it's USB 3.0 adapter.
I bought this Ruipro cable six months ago to connect a Denon AVR to a C1 and it works fine - note it’s a 15 m / 50 ft length.
This works for me. (Canada). The first cable they sent me in mid 2021 did not work 4k120 with g sync. It was replaced.
CABLEDECONN 8K HDMI 2.1 Optical... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00VBOCWI2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm going to take the advice in this thread and disable TPC and GSR with this service remote. Hopefully that fixes the issue.
RUIPRO 8K Fiber Optic HDMI Cable 20 Feet 48Gbps 8K60Hz 4K120Hz Dynamic HDR eARC HDCP2.2/2.3 Compatible with Nvidia RTX 3080/3090 Xbox Series X PS5 Denon AV Receiver LG Samsung Sony TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081SFN2FG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_VW6C1WCZYCDXRX53Z7YW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Monoprice 8K Certified Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 Cable - 15 Feet - Black | 48Gbps, Compatible with Sony Playstation 5, Playstation 5 Digital Edition, Microsoft Xbox Series X, and Xbox Series S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09373S127/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NC2DSYQY56R1637CDDHD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Sounds like ASBL Dune was the movie that made me bite the bullet And buy this and do the following MKJ39170828 Replacement Service Remote Control fit for LG LCD LED TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M91STG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7VHJ64TNGDDRE6G87VZW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
-Press the In Start and enter 0413 -Go to OLED menu -Select TPC and turn it off -Select GSR and turn it off -Press exit
Do just this don't mess with the in stop button or any other settings
Thanks so much for detailed response.
I'm on Virgin media. They're considered the best commercial ISP in UK. As for the rest of your 1st paragraph, I'll have to get back to you!
Very confident no interference on the ethernet cable. It just runs through the hallway and into my room.
The power to my TV is from a Belkin power extension brick thing (link: Belkin BSV804 8 Way 2 m Surge Protection Extension Lead Strip with 2 x 2.4 A Shared USB Charging Plug, White https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OE45MVK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_YFHSKX4G72GA8BGA6GHA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1). I'd be very surprised if that's causing a negative effect.
I will look into a VPN as a few others have suggested the same.
I only have 2.4ghz and 5ghz wifi channels.
Thanks!
For context. Ethernet cable runs from WiFi box (sorry idk) to this: TP-Link LS108G 8-Port Desktop/Wallmount Gigabit Ethernet Switch/Hub, Network Splitter, Plug and play, Steel Case https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RQHL6BY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_T3J10TK39RKN3FH8VHFQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This ethernet switch then connects to the TV and 5 other devices. To my knowledge, it's good quality so shouldn't be an issue. TV itself consistently getting just under 100mbps.
Mainly did it to push the oled back as far as possible without wallmounting since i’m renting.
This is the stand. Rated for 88 pounds. Just a glass base kinda scares me but I cant find anything non glass comparable.
LG SN6Y Sound Bar w/Subwoofer,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085T4J2C2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought this 3.1 channel sound bar w my C1 and it seems pretty great to me. Price seems right. Im no audiophile though.
I bought this one and it's perfect for my 65" C1: Walker Edison Milton Classic 2 Shelf Corner TV Stand for TVs up to 65 Inches, 58 Inch, Driftwood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L17ISAY/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_6y16hfftHOnwa
I did also add a riser on top of it so I could fit a soundbar without blocking the TV. Got this one if you're interested: The Office Oasis Dual Computer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8N774Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got this one. It is a bit of a hybrid. Can pull it out for cable management but pushes back to sit like a fixed mount. No issues with my 77”.
I'm kidding it's a wall bracket
Sleek PS5 Wall Mount Kit (Disc or... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0916H9ZX8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Xbox Series X Wall Mount - Sturdy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SJ1JC9Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I put Disney+ content on Plex where the center button works as intended..
Or you can see if Disney+ supports the dedicated pause/play button on the LG service remote: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075M91STG
Amazon. The tempered glass base one was fine but there are a bunch of reports of such material spontaneously shattering and the TV falls over onto the desk/floor. So I opted for a decent metal base. I have this model.
Whereas some other people might feel confident about handling this TV, the TV is so thin it feels like it will break the moment you try to pull it either from the bed. My recommendation is to get a pair of these and put them on the back of the TV to handle it. Lifting the TV and carrying it will be significantly easier. Gekbot Suction Cups to Lift Large Glass/Tile Lifter/Floor Gap Fixer/Dent Remover Puller/Mirror Holder/Suction Cup Hooks/Heavy Duty Aluminum Vacuum Plate Handle (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P2J1TH1/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_J3GNT93J5WE08PYB6HTH
My wife and I used them to move our 65 C1 just yesterday and man it is so much easier than relying on holding the panel (:
That's the one I bought. Works fine. I'm in the UK.
Bewinner Remote Control for LG Smart TV, Replacement Service HD Smart TV Remote Control for LG LCD TV MKJ39170828 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MMPTW4Z/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_A7RGY6V6V4CEKYZ4QKNS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Swap you cable for a certified cable if not using one already. Poorly made/terminate cables have a lot of cross talk and choke when the bandwidth jumps up.
In the first weeks of owning a C1, I was dealing with a bit of judder and stuttering (not as noticable on the prior LCD). Tinkered with TruMotion for a while. But, I can't stand the effect even on Cinema Motion.
Determined it came down to my HDMI cable after troubleshooting. The one that appeared to resolved the issues was a HDMI 2.0 certified; So I purchased a few certified cables - nothing crazy:
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AV10175bt2M-BLK-Vision-Optimal-Viewing/dp/B075N83B9X
Testing/troubleshooting as using Roku Ultra, nVidia Shield Pro, and PS5. In fact, after swapping the PS5 HDMI for the one above, I went from 4K60 @ 4:2:0 to 4K120 @ 4:4:4 (RGB) capable in PC Mode.
I don’t see why not but I also didn’t see any G1 users posting reviews. MKJ39170828 Replacement Service Remote Control fit for LG LCD LED TV https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B075M91STG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Z6HGQ3G9XQ5A5JD0QBC6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used this on my KS8000 previously: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HFYGLR, can't see any reason why it wouldn't work for my C1 either.
I didn't have a reason to clean it yet though, I just dust it with swiffer.
I finally found the solution! You basically need 2 of those: Lindy HDMI CEC Less Adapter, Female to Male (41232) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DL48KVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BKCWGZBYYJFKCT40TH2K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Plug them in the non-arc HDMI slots and you’ll be good to go! Good luck hope this helps!
Hi
I really want to know if my new 65“ has the EVO Panel and i have no LG Service Remote, but theres a App in the Goggle Store for Android which does the same.
its a Service Remote Control App and it works, you can Acces the Service Menu , works absolutely fine👍 1,99€
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=by.makarov.smarttvlgrc&hl=de&gl=US
My is C1 is from 10/21 with WBE / EVO Panel
Hey they're called in wall power kit. You don't need to run your own wires. It's pre-wired, the box/wall plate includes the wiring, it's basically snaps on to the bottom box/wall plate where it exits out and there's another extension cord that comes out and plugs into your outlet. It's also in-wall rated, it's literally plug and play so would not require an electrician. Just make sure to make your drywall cutouts an inch from any stud, that way the locking mechanism for the face plate can lock into your drywall. Also I would suggest to make sure you won't run into any 2x4 that's installed horizontally as a fire break or else you'll have to drill through the 2x4 to drop the wire.
Here's the link to the product.
Legrand, Home Office & Theater, in Wall TV Power Kit, White, CPT306WV1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WHDNPKV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VS7AHGS1NJ1RPP1EENB4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Youtube the brand of in wall kit and you'll find how to install videos.
It's an awesome product! Makes the install clean.
I personally use this product and it is boss!! Take care of your investment:
WHOOSH! Screen Cleaner Kit - [16.9 Oz] Best for Smartphones, iPads, Eyeglasses, e-Readers, TV Screen Cleaner, LED, LCD,Computer Screen Cleaner, Laptop & Touchscreen - Screen Cleaner Spray + 2 Cloths https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HFYGLR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_M8KCN9AQDZYFDKX1KRP2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Trust me, this dongle will solve your speed issues. Not sure what internet speed you have, but I have a gig router and this dongle gets me right between 380-400 Mbps consistently which obviously exceeds the cap of 100 to the built in jack. You do have to have a gig switch or your router close enough to connect the Ethernet cable and you'll notice an immediate jump after you restart the router and TV. Here's a link to the one I personally use but you can use any similar model as long as it goes up to a gig. Unfortunately, like someone already mentioned, for whatever reason the TV has EVERY OTHER OPTION ON GOD'S GREEN EARTH but settled for USB 2.0 instead of 3.0 At least there's 3 😂😂😂! Good luck!
Cable Matters USB to Ethernet Adapter (USB 3.0 to Ethernet) Supporting 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet Network in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_T0J9XSJC1WM6GASA40ZY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've got https://www.amazon.com/Sanus-Swivel-Base-Mount-32-60/dp/B06XC63BG8?ref_=ast_sto_dp (bought at Costco, cheaper) which is great for elevating over teh soundbar enough
I got this kit for my LG C1 77 inch and I love it to death: https://www.amazon.ca/Govee-Immersion-Backlights-Ambient-Assistant/dp/B098DSFH14?ref_=ast_sto_dp
mounted the camera on the bottom.
I used this from Amazon
PERLESMITH Universal TV Stand - Table Top TV Stand for 37-55 inch LCD LED TVs - Height Adjustable TV Base Stand with Tempered Glass Base & Wire Management, VESA 400x400mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077MJZ6ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G1BBTNP4JMQ2SXP6PMEV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Speaking of speeds… I get occasional audio cut outs when I’m running Dolby Atmos audio to my soundbar (through my TV’s eARC port) and Dolby Vision or HDR10 content. Kinda wondering if the fact that I’m running 4:4:4 is causing that…
I have hdmi 2.1 cables but they’re nothing to write home about. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084RFQPSP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yeah that’s odd mate I use this one with my c1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU?pd_rd_w=1IgGG&pf_rd_p=19ea7824-c606-4702-8242-1342370b1024&pf_rd_r=9CDKET5DYNPE8HKWK55Y&pd_rd_r=f251b252-eb78-41a9-8d2b-2c8d3d74562c&pd_rd_wg=bnNmp&am... works no bother (providing Wi-Fi is off and nothing is plugged into the proper Ethernet port) apart from the link lights you wouldn’t know it was working though, I messed with it for ages because it appeared to not be recognised, but as soon as I loaded up a streaming app I realised it had actually been working all along
The sync box is so the lightstrip can show 100% color accuracy on whatever is being displayed on your tv. And bleed it on the wall. However it only works for whatever you have plugged into the hdmi sync box
And it's this one Philips Hue Gradient LightStrip 75" (Sync with TV, Music and Gaming), Hue Hub & Hue Sync Box Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P2CV1KF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3DDT11PB9AM6RTB347XE
I just got my 77" C1 set up this weekend and want to get the gradient light strip. I already have the hue light bulbs (and hue bridge too), but I want to know what the point of the sync box is for?
I got this in my cart now: Philips Hue Gradient Lightstrip in my shopping cart
Is this the right one? Or do I need a kit that has the sync box like you mentioned?
I too, am a Lazy and haven't messed with the settings too much but I know I want to get the gradient strip for sure. So thanks for your help/input.
MKJ39170828 - Mando a distancia para LG LCD LED TV 49UH6500 60UH655060 60UH6550-UB 55UH6550 55UH6550-UB 43UH6500 43UH6500-UB OLEDC7P 32LND 30B 49 UK6300PUE EF95000 65EG9600 65EG9600-U. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PQZGXMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_GAYW9DN5QBJVS2S6YFJM
May I suggest the following much cheaper option? I'm using one right now and it works great. But it does not work for everyone :( This is a rebadge of FeinTech VAX01202. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093K6FHQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I left the glowing review. This one does let you route things through your avr as well, but it does have a screwy edid that confuses the LG C1 and eventually makes it think you're behind a switch. https://imgur.com/a/cOZNyCi
Which is fine unless you want to use PC mode on HDMI 2. Then it doesn't work so well. The name constantly keeps changing, I've seen GSV, $, XBOX and DVD Player.
These Klipsch soundbars are monsters. I would personally choose a 2.1 with receiver setup given the space to set it up. If you are set on a soundbar over a dedicates speaker and reciever setup this is great.
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Andrew Robinson on YouTube did a rundown of various soundbars. Check out his reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D9BCX1R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details I bough this and for me fixed HDCP issue
In case that the one you order doesn't work you can order this one from Amazon. It worked for C7, C8, and now on my C1.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087F4QCTR/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also one thing to take when using these Ethernet adapters, when you plug into your TV's usb port, you will NOT see it recognized by your TV Ethernet settings nor will you see any IP Address information in the TV.
But if you go into Netflix app > Get Help > Network. The Netflix app will show the port as Eth1 with an IP Address via DHCP.
So your AVR is too old to support eARC. You have two options, buying a device that can make it work like the following: (I bought this and it works but its oos) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B094PPVKFL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one is available now: https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Synchronization-Separation/dp/B09BCYTX77/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3UXIV7280578L&dchild=1&keywords=earc%2Bextractor&qid=1635529833&sprefix=earc%2Bextractor%2Caps%2C61&sr=8-3&th=1
For the device I have and I imagine the other works the same way the setup is pretty simple:
- Plug in HDMI 2 on your TV to the extractor's (e)ARC port.
- Plug in the TV out port of your AVR to the input.
- Plug in a victim port of your AVR to the HDMI out.
- Flip the eARC switch on the device on.
- On the LG TV, set the audio to HDMI ARC, and turn on eARC.
That's it. Now when you want to watch streaming content or devices that are connected to the TV, you'll use the victim port of your AVR. (in my case it's CD). You'll have to raise/lower the volume through the avr but you'll get full fidelity sound this way. You'll also be able to keep using your hdmi 2 to send in any of your other devices that are connected this way.
I got this set from Amazon, because I wasn't sure for my 48 C1.... Can't have too many bolts.. :)
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076JBMD1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Roku is issuing a new device upgrade which may be worth looking at. Sound quality may be a good step up.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BKCDXZC/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Strongly recommend the Zeskit cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S1CGQ9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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They work like a champ.
You could try putting some black felt up on the ceiling to block the light front reflecting. I got these square and put them in the white walls around my projector screen and it dramatically reduced the reflections off the white walls. 15PCS Black Velvet Fabric Sticky Back Adhesive Back Sheets, Self Adhesive Velvet Fabric for Jewelry Drawer Craft Fabric and Craft Making https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081Q8KM5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0TXPDHJDYYGMKCD8XNT5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I bought for our 65” CX. Love it. Turns off with the TV.
Power Practical LED Lights for TV Backlight - Luminoodle, USB Powered TV LED Light Strip w/ Bias Ambient Lighting for Home Theater - True White - Size (60"-80” TV) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RP1DR7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EHEZ33V9K85EY358BXFG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought:
works like a charm with an ol' Samsung 960 EVO 1TB
thermal pads included, in touch with the chassi so good cooling
Unless you need external drive kind of storage. Go with a microSD card and a USB to MicroSD reader. That essentially makes the microSD plug and play with your TVs USB ports and no external power. 256gb are fairly cheap for the size.
You can get USB type A versions that are super slim. There also also USB type C but I haven’t noticed any ones as slim as the ones for USB A so far.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTQVSLL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4WSSY8EE3B11BFZ6588E
I’m not vouching for this one in particular but it was the slimmest I could find with a 1 minute search.
I use this. One of my best purchases ever: PERLESMITH Universal Floor TV Stand/Base with Swivel Mount for Most 32-65 inch LCD LED TVs - Height Adjustable, Cable Management and Space Saving, VES https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TYZDGPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TMIP97mSqSmPR
I bought this cable thinking it would be enough. Any input ? My software is all up to date on the apple tv and CX. I'll try ordering a different cable and checking if that's the issue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M9HND4F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_CK7QJ42RF1ESQ9M4MVKH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1