What are
/r/UNIFI's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/UNIFI:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/UNIFI:
pfSense
Fast.com
Speedtest by Ookla
NextDNS
UniFi
Shodan
Pi-hole
Unlocator
Vultr
inSSIDer
NetSpot
Suricata
Domotz
PuTTY
GRCs DNS Benchmark
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/UNIFI:
UniFi
Fing - Network Tools
WiFiAnalyzer (open-source)
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/UNIFI:
The most popular reviews in /r/UNIFI:
You could make a separate vlan for your child's devices and block adult content on that vlan using https://www.opendns.com/home-internet-security/ as the DNS for that vlan.
I think the best solution is: https://pi-hole.net/
You install 2 rasperrys als DNS server and let all traffic go over this dns server.
Not sure it will work on android tv but for sure it will work on browser.
https://www.shodan.io/host/45.155.205.165
Looks like a pivot or a honeypot, with ssh and ntp wan facing reported by shodan.
Block it and forget it.
Change around any port forwards you have or remove them all together and create vpn to get into your devices remotely. Avoid any tor or p2p unless u vpn first. Secure ur DNS through a secure provider.
Outside of that it’s fairly normal traffic, lots of these sources scan/snif/recon’ing opportunistically. I just block em, when there in the North America you can email the sysadmin but the ruskies don’t give a shit.
> I am side tracking here, but basically how much one believes their privacy is important and how much extreme one feel the need of protection. The cost is always there and how much is one willing to pay for just varies.
Are you kidding? You gave an awesome response and I understood every point you were making. As I said, I just upgraded from 100Mbps to 400Mbps, so I would be in that category of feeling the bandwidth hit from IPS, but honestly, every speedtest.net test I run reports back much higher than 250Mbps. Here's my most recent:
https://www.speedtest.net/result/10059441753.png
330Mbps... To me, it's totally worth the small hit I take from IPS being enabled. Thanks for responding. :-)
If you're using Cloudflare, you can use Argo Tunnel, it's a small daemon that runs in your network and establishes and outbound connection to Cloudflare, so you don't have to open any ports.
I've been using it as a HA Sidecar for a few months now, works like a charm, plus it's recently been made free: https://www.cloudflare.com/products/argo-tunnel/
I don’t believe Mac by default can see Linux partitions.
If it was set to backup it should be on the drive. If the drive isn’t damaged.
It may have to do a fsck on the partition.
I have a 24/40 transformer and also have the same issue. Doorbell disconnects and reconnects several times/day. When it is connected, it reports greater than 50% wifi signal so I don't get it.
Hey I pulled my hair out trying to get the doorbell and physical chime working properly. I tried every damn transformer at Home Depot to no avail. However, this one off Amazon worked for me. Not affiliated, just hope this saves you from a self induced bald spot https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007B79HR2
MOCA isn't limited to 1gb/s? https://www.amazon.com/goCoax-Adapter-2-5Gbps-Ethernet-WF-803M/dp/B07XYDG7WN. get this and go wired mesh. i think thats the best way to go. All unifi devices do mesh (wired and wireless), but I have done a large home w/ 7 access points and the wired mesh/handoff is incredible with unify
I lied, this does not work.
I ordered one from Amazon that people said correctly negotiates 2.5 with the modem and 10 with the UDM pro.
Wiitek SFP+ to RJ45 Copper Modules, 10GBase-T Transceiver Compatible for Cisco SFP-10G-T-S, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, Unifi (Cat 6a/7, 30-Meter) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P39G4XJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FWQ98WB12KKRP7VT13WX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> My modem has a 2.5GbE RJ45 port, but the UDM Pro only has 1GbE RJ45 or 10 GbE SFP+ for the WAN, no apparent multi-gig RJ45 WAN. This little guy shows a 10 GbE connection to my UDM Pro and a 2.5 GbE connection to my cable modem.
I just got one of these computers since I had some spare RAM and an m.2 SATA SSD kicking around. I'm running OPNSense (totally free and powerful) on mine and the performance has been pretty awesome. Barely getting over 10% CPU with 40-50 clients and 400Mbps internet. Using Unifi switches and Plume for my Wifi. It does have built in wifi that I believe you can use as an AP, but I skipped that since I didn't need it. Great little computer, totally passive cooling and cheaper than many off the shelf routers.
I encourage those who want this change to leave bad reviews stating what you want on their AppStore apps. Perhaps that will help motivate them to unbrick their product:
iOS: https://apps.apple.com/us/app/unifi-protect/id1392492235
Google Play: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.unifi.protect&hl=en_US&gl=US
I also just emailed their Protect Mobile feedback email (protectmobilefeedback [at] ui.com) because that's listed in their iOS app page and asked them for simple IP/local account based login. This hand wavy, it-might-work-but-probably-not stuff is just lame. The app doesn't even tell you login failed, it just loops its self.
> Our next option we want to try out now is to find the midpoint of the patch cable, and cut it to terminate both ends. So that we introduce a POE in the middle.
Depending on what you mean by that it won't work. PoE-Injectors don't refresh the ethernet frames. You will need something called a PoE-Extender (something like this).
Keep in mind cat-6 is only specified to a max cable length of 100 meters. I would cut somewhere around 90 meters (for some buffer), terminate the sides and put an extender between them.
If you're considering the Pro's - which you shouldn't as they're getting pretty up there in terms of age - You might as well get the nanoHD's as they have newer, better, hardware.
~~Also, where are you seeing an AP Lite for $170?~~ ~~This listing on Amazon~~ ~~is $80.~~ If you're worried about coverage or throughput issues, you can just scale up the deployment of the Lite's as needed.
Edit... Yeah I wasn't thinking when I asked that question; of course that's for two.
I have that exact setup: UDMP -> USW-Pro-48-Poe using SFP+
I do not recall needing to change any settings and they are connected at 10gbe
I am using this cable fwiw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09C9NZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have no idea if this actually works, and it's probably not available in your country, but this Tenda 100Mbit PoE Switch claims to be able to extend the signal up to 250m https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/gp/product/B0791JB4K3
Thank you. We considered air actually, but there's a house in the middle, blocking direct view between our houses.
I found this 150m cable, for 130EUR.
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Elfcam%C2%AE-Armoured-Multimode-Duplex-Outdoor-black/dp/B097ZGKGL8
Very interesting. We’ll try the fiber route.
Would this cable the the correct one with the unifi 10G SPF+ modules?
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Elfcam%C2%AE-Armoured-Multimode-Duplex-Outdoor-black/dp/B097ZGKGL8
Thank you. Looking forward to trying this out. Need to get a new cable first. Will report back.
Will this cable work with the unifi 10G SPF modules?
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Elfcam%C2%AE-Armoured-Multimode-Duplex-Outdoor-black/dp/B097ZGKGL8
Nothing. I have 5 cameras. Completely silent and the onboard temps are 104F
I have mine mounted to a 2U vertical wall rack in the farthest away from the wall slot, and I have a small $15 fan pointing upward to drive air over both sides of the UDMSE. The only noise I have is from the fan on the floor.
It looks like the heat rising from the unit is probably causing the paint to become a bit tacky which is causing dust to collect above it. My guess is putting the extender on an extension that holds it out from the wall even an inch, would allow it to breath better and not just send the heat straight up the wall. I don't know what you have in europe, but here in the states something like this would work (using this an example of something that would work, you'll need to figure out what works in your country). https://www.amazon.com/Female-Household-T-Blade-Adapter-UL-Listed/dp/B01MS9R0Z9/ref=asc\_df\_B01MS9R0Z9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216506979975&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14778219967032535893&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvq...
That's still ~$600 more than it's worth, IMHO. $800 per camera is bloody pricey especially considering they could cripple their ability to do RTSP at any second to further lock you into their inferior ecosystem.
$1300 buys a full 8 camera Reolink setup with object detection. That's what I'd suggest to a newbie.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Reolink-Security-Camera-System-pre-Installed/dp/B08GM6CW6S
No idea who is buying UBNT CCTV stuff these days in NZ. Fanboys?
All Round Band is quite nice to use
Although it's made from steel it is quite soft and malleable. This means that you can simply cut a small section off, wrap it around the cable and then put a screw through one of the holes into a fixing.
The only downside is that this is not the best for aesthetics. If the cables will be ran inside wall cavities or inside a loft space then this would be a good option.
I have personally used this for quite a few installs and this is a lifesaver and does not damage the able (as you wrap it around to a tightness that you are comfortable with).
Thx for responding. I'll tell ya, I just upgraded to 400/20 from 100/10 with Charter and with IPS turned on, I always get over 250Mbps which is the supposed limit. Now, maybe if a heavier load is placed on the USG Pro-4 would kick in the 250Mbps maximum, then so be it.
Thanks for the response. I just ran speedtest.net and got 331.23 downstream 23.00 upstream with IPS enabled. I've gotten 350.xx on previous tests...all with IPS enabled.
https://www.speedtest.net/result/10059441753.png
I feel the same way you do. I bought the USG Pro 4 because of its features and capabilities (compared to the junk Linksys routers I was burning through every 18 months or less). Security is of utmost concern and if there is a function to analyze traffic and prevent known problems from occurring on my network, why would I shut it off?
I just built (2) 24 port UniFi panels with a 50 pack of these, I actually bought the kit that includes a punch down tool. The tool worked pretty well, probably faster that using a manual punch (but I still managed to cross a couple wires). The Jacks snap in and work fine, there is a very small gap at the top, maybe tomorrow I can take a picture if you care.
I love that you punched down your cable modem, and seemingly 2 patches to connect your Gateway to your switch instead of just a short cable between them?
​
Why not get a short SFP cable to connect them and 'make use' of that 10G backplane though?
Turn off auto update as some updates in the past caused major malfunctions.
Setup 2FA with UI verify app found here UI Verify
Always backup Network, Router and protect before updating.
Have a UDM Pro? SE, or need to setup firewall rules and Vlans?
Watch Mactelecoms YouTube tutorials. Here's some that I watch in a Playlist Mactelecoms YouTube Ubiquity guides
It “may” auto-negotiate power, but 802.3af is output between 37-57v to be certain with absolute certainty I would buy this splitter that outputs 12v as the dataspec says it has a 12v dc input or POE.
Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Compliant-Surveillance-5-5x2-1mm-PS5712TG/dp/B08HS4NT13/
Mac OS has a weird driver issue where it doesn’t support high speeds over thunderbolt. Try using a USB to 2.5GBe Ethernet adapter. Had similar issues with my Ethernet port on my dell monitor hub. I believe you need an Ethernet adapter that uses the Realtek RL8156 driver. I used this: Plugable 2.5G USB C and USB to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084L4JL9K and had no issues hitting 1400+ on my xfinity connection and 2350+ on iPerf to my server.
No need to "open the cable". Use a continuity checker to see if all the pairs light up properly. You've likely got one (or more) that will fail (1, 2, 3, and 6 will likely be fine, so it'll be 4, 5, 7, or 8 where you'll have a problem). If either end is terminated on a punchdown keystone, you can simply make sure the wires are properly seated / re-wire the punchdown to potentially fix the issue. If either end has an RJ45 plug on it, one or more of the wires are probably not pushed all the way into the connector. If that's the case, cut it off and install a new one. :)
I don't have to unplug anything anymore thanks to:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQO5S0G
It is a Power Distribution Unit. 9 switches for 9 outlets. Rack mounted. Not Ubiquiti, and not Silver. I have to power cycle my Peplink router and Polycom/Obi VOIP ATA fairly regularly. I power cycle my UniFi equipment far less frequently.
I currently have a CyberPower OR700LCDRM1U Smart App... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XJLLKG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share which operates a UDMP, 1 Poe switch 24 port and full, 1 non Poe switch, NAS and several other small appliances. It will run all of these for approximately 22 minutes.
The funny thing is you can still buy the UAP-Pro brand new on Amazon, despite being out of support, so these are NOS devices. I guess it depends if you are OK with Wi-Fi 4, which honestly work perfectly fine for most devices and are also OK with them not being supported on current versions. My opinion is that Wi-Fi 4 is still completely viable for the majority of situations but, as the industry keeps progressing support will be the biggest hindrance going forward.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Enterprise-System-AP-Pro-UAP-PRO/dp/B00HXT8T5O
16v 30va worked perfectly for me. Have to make sure during setup or in the settings you select mechanical or digital chime.
They're designed for AC (not DC), so can't have diodes inside. It's just a convenient tool-less connector for home users.
I bought some fork terminals and crimped them onto the ends of my wires, but I've seen others just wrap the wire around the screw.
I've used this one to power a Raspberry Pi before, should work on G4 Instant I'd think, but doesn't clarify what Amperage it can support.
It appears to be less than 12 lines so you could use something like this 12 port keystone panel
With this any keystone jack
I just did exactly what you're wanting to accomplish. Don't waste your time going through trial and error (like I did) and just go buy this now:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SNK1MY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
It will negotiate at 5Gb speed with the AT&T modem and at 10Gb speed with the UDM-P. It will auto-negotiate these speeds, so you don't have to manually do it.
I added this to the post over on /bell but I just wanted to follow up. I had the Fibe installed and it was much simpler that I was expecting. The technician ran an ethernet cable from the 10Gb port on the Home Hub 4000 into port 10 on the UDM-Pro. I had this SFP+ module plugged into that port: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XG9DPJ7
In the Unifi OS all I had to do was configure port 10 for WAN, change it to PPPoe and add my username and password from Bell. That's it. I've got the 500/500 service so I can't say whether the UDM-pro with the current firmware will run into issues at 1 Gbps or more but at the moment tests show consistent speeds of about 550 Mbps each direction. So far so good. Thanks to everybody for the insights.
I’d recommend a network cable tester such as this. It’s helped me out so much!
NOYAFA Advanced Cable Tester with PoE Multifunction Wire Tracker Network Cable Tester for te Toner Tool Kit with Bag Probe Audio Tone for LAN CAT5 CAT6 Tracker，(Without battery) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08334R9KP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NNFAZRJ1TXGNTZDHKWKW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’d recommend a network cable tester such as this. It’s helped me out so much!
NOYAFA Advanced Cable Tester with PoE Multifunction Wire Tracker Network Cable Tester for te Toner Tool Kit with Bag Probe Audio Tone for LAN CAT5 CAT6 Tracker，(Without battery) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08334R9KP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NNFAZRJ1TXGNTZDHKWKW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Got the AC Pros for outdoor use.
Using this to connect the UDMP to the 48 port switch 10G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WMQ7964PT9V0PMQFDQ9P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Maybe I will leave the Xbox and Sonos in the primary VLAN.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.easyunifi&hl=en_US&gl=US
The last update was in March you may need to force it to update as it's been over 7 days and you should have gotten the update by now.
I don't think the UF-RJ45-10G is compatible with anything other than 1G and 10G inputs. You would need a 10base-T 1G, 2.5G, 5.0G, 10G adapter to work.
Something like this would be a good product, and good price per GB
Western Digital 14TB Ultrastar DC HC530 SATA HDD - 7200 RPM Class, SATA 6 Gb/s, 512MB Cache, 3.5" - WUH721414ALE6L4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPL474H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_CQ4P7SVEVBJG81DF9ZFE
If adding an NVR is not an option for some reason, it should be, then this would be a perfect solution
Seagate Exos X18 18TB Enterprise HDD - CMR 3.5 Inch Hyperscale SATA 6Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 512e and 4Kn FastFormat, Low Latency with Enhanced Caching (ST18000NM000J) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K98VFXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_DTS94BZECH7XRKG6SRZX
Mine works perfectly. Sounds like a bad SFP cable. Here is the cable I used:
Use a dac cable instead , you got unlucky with your cat 6 .
Really the direct Copper is the way to go .
10Gtek for Ubiquiti SFP+ Direct Attach Copper Cable(DAC), 10Gb/s 0.5-Meter SFP DAC Twinax Cable, Passive https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0784G66WW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_R4SXW6JFMEFV6BP8SVHA
sure! Here is their site. I Think they run a deal every black friday where you join as a member for super cheap, $10 or so. it'll monitor whatever ips you tell it to and I have a block of 8 static IPs from my ISP. It's another good external check.
Might want to check into this, Very interesting setup, incorporates into unifi and looks way cool. I am trying it on my home sytem this weekend , before loading it at the business sites.
The mounting point on the back of the camera (where the included mount attaches) is a standard 1/4 inch camera thread.
You can use something like this ball joint to give more adjustments. Or try a different mount
Bummer, must be dependent upon the SFP adapter. Here’s the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXNQTXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YVW11NKTQ69MSGYV8TFP
It’s a 10 gig SFP and my ISP modem is connected via 2.5 gig ethernet. So, as I noted above, it’s entirely possible the 2.5 work here is being handled by the SFP and my UDMP only sees it as a 10 gig interface. In any event, it works and I’ve confirmed speeds in excess of 1 gig.
It’s definitely a bummer if your ISP doesn’t provide a better option, though, than an SFP that won’t work.
Pretty much anything point to point would work with that speed. Here is a link to one of the least expensive options on Amazon. Note I have not personally used these (or any other point-to-point wireless), just know that it exists.
There are other ones out there which cost a lot more, but with the short distance you're trying to bridge, one of the less expensive options would likely work just fine.
I have tried different devices. I've also noticed extreme inconsistency in tests as well. I tried your settings and got little to no difference. I tried /u/thefleeg1's suggestion and managed to get speed tests ~230 but every time I reconnect the test I get wildly different results. I got ~19 mbps on fast.com and then immediately after that result retried and got 230. And it bounces around. Each devices gives the same results however. (Tested on my 2019 MacBook Pro and iPhone X using fast.com). On my Mac I got 200 and then 78 and then 120. All tests were performed subsequently.
I already run PingPlotter so I can see when it's up and not but that's not giving me the information I need to actively pinpoint the issue.
The Unif network app (aka controller via web browser on the UDM) is woefully insufficient as well. The up times and experience score is not working for me.
Since what I have is in essence an enterprise user network in miniature, I'm thinking enterprise software (like https://www.zabbix.com) is what's needed. It shouldn't be too hard to spin up as I've done many similar before. If this intermittent nonsense keeps up, I'll let y'all know how the troubleshooting goes.
Not sure if I understood correctly.
So if you do,
Internet speed test via wired client - 700/500
WiFi client Internet speed test - 250
WiFiman test from iOS App? You get 400? Or are you talking about Option Hold Wi-FI click on Mac with Tx Rate?
If you are talking about Mac speed, that is called PHY. It is like a physical link connection formed between client and your AP. That is theoretical max. But all Wi-Fi has inefficiency so it can operate only 50-70%.
If iOS app of WiFi man showing better speed than Fast.com, it is because server location. For instance, popular Ookla speed test select default server that's closest from me. But that server is lower in speed performance so I actually get much slower speed than if I change to other server or use other site for test.
Ooooh I did not know that you could just slap a converter in between and it'll play nicely. So something like this and some unifi multimode sfps are all that I need? And I didn't even know what kind of cable type I had. That helped a lot, much appreciated! And even just 1gb speeds are an upgrade. It's been stuck at 100mb for too long.
The UniFi one ONLY supports 1G and 10G. Don't get it.
I am using this one in my UniFi Pro Switch to make a 2.5 G connection: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P39G4XJ/
I chose the WiiTek because it came well reviewed by ServeTheHome, which compared compatibility, heat generated, and throughput speeds.
That's fine, but it will cost you more...
Amazon's first hit is this TP-Link switch, which should be just fine and is $49.99...
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Compliant-Shielded-Optimization-TL-SG1005P/dp/B076HZFY3F/
Of course, that's unmanaged (so no VLANs).
- Here's what you should do. Move UDM pro up 1. Put Keystone patch above your switch. Place another keystone patch bellow. Now purchase mono price patch cables 0.5' should work, Patch the panel and the front spaghetti mess is cleaned!
Next thing I'd do is purchase some Valco. Here's one Mac telecom told me about. https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-BRAND-ONE-WRAP-TAPE-YARD/dp/B071Y3TVNT/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=velcro&qid=1638065285&sr=8-11
With the Velcro you can tidy up the cables in the back pretty easily with your hands.
Just grab a wad of cables and compress for Velcro.
add more Velcro to that then space the Velcro apart to keep a nice clean look into your rack.
If you still have too much cable, try pushing some back into the wall where it came from other wise tidy it up on the side so you have the most air flow.
Personally, for home usage I prefer the open frame design racks as it's much easier to cable manage then a closed rack.
It would but that would have an EU plug. Just checked the specs and the doorbell can accept 16-24V so this would work and comes with a UK plug: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07ZNGDYK3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2S381BA3AXCWY8SXYGQY
I have used these in the past, they make them in white also. They don’t leave any residue and you can either dim or block all the light depending on what version you get.
These are IRONBOX cables available through marketplaces like Amazon.
That'll take you right to the SSH section. Assuming you're on windows, you can ssh via Putty (https://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/latest.html)
When you connect via putty and are prompted for credentials, the default user and password is ubnt
Seems like an expensive and brute-force way to solve the problem Using unlocator.com, I just put a manual DNS entry into the AppleTV and it did exactly what I wanted. See the other comments below.
Have you tried using unlocator.com smartDNS service? I use it to watch Dodgers games on my Apple TV 4K via the MLB app and avoid the local blackouts. I set up the unlocator service then just change the DNS on my Apple TV when I need to use it. It works great and is the best $5 I spend each month.
I did try putting my Apple TV on a separate VLAN that had the unlocator DNS and then I could change the DNS via the Unifi App but I found it just as easy to change it on the Apple TV
You should look at Domotz (www.domotz.com). It allows you to see the status of all network interfaces, as well as nice features for network mapping, PoE, monitoring of access points and related connected devices, device response time monitoring and so on. This is addition to standard network monitoring, snmp v1/v2/v3, remote access and so on...
Not sure if you have tried this or not, but you could try the UniFi network planner.
https://unifi-planner.ui.com/#/
I used it to give me a general sense of what I needed when I set mine up.
I have 3 story home with an unfinished basement and my APs are located on the top floor and basement and my coverage is excellent. So you may not even need to run to your 1st floor.
Additionally, if you don’t want to snake wire through your ceiling for a ceiling mounted access point, there are other options (https://unifi-network.ui.com/wi-fi). For instance there is an in wall AP (Model: UAP-IW-HD) and a WiFi extender (Model: UAP-BeaconHD) or you could mount the AP on your wall.
Sorry if I sound like a commercial but I believe in the Ubiquiti gear.
Maybe a wifi site survey would shed some light. Inssider is a useful tool if you have a laptop. If you have an android device, there are a bajillion different wifi survey tools. Don't bother with iOS. Apple locks the wifi hardware away from applications, so it can't be done properly on that platform.
Sounds like a no brainer, but I like to visualize the data and these tools help me do that.
I believe that PFsense does well out putting stats to a database like influxdb using a grab like telegraf. Then access the database with Grafana and now you have the ability to pull it all together in as many cool graphs charts as you want. Go crazy and use impi into your servers and or Linux boxes and you will be overwhelmed but the charts you can create.
Freeradius, Jumpcloud (Free up to 10 devices). I know you didn't want these, but throwing them here: Microsoft NPS, built in Unifi Radius, I'm sure there are others out there as well. This is just off the top of my head.
I might suggest NextDNS.io -- gives your entire network AND your mobile devices protection against unwanted "material" and blocks ads. It's worth $20 a year not to have to manage a PiHole IMO.
Yes, you want VLANs. What makes all of this even easier is having matched unifi equipment. If you do not have a Unifi switch you will need to setup the VLANs according to whatever manufacturer you're using. If that switch is capable of VLANs.
A VM on Vultr.com is $5. Digital Ocean is popular and there's always the big guys Amazon, Microsoft Azure and Google. Those inexpensive VMs are going to be Linux so if you aren't comfortable with CLI, you're gonna learn some stuff :)
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It's this one (ShuOne brand);https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07XMMRH27/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its a HDMI over IP extender that specifically supports operation over a network infrastructure. (it supports direct cable connection as well).
It's this one (ShuOne brand);
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07XMMRH27/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have used standard HDbaseT extenders and understand that they are direct connection only.
I purchased this one as a direct cable run is not possible between source and display, and I explicitly wanted to try to achieve it over the network, as I have that infrastructure in place. The device description and documentation indicates this should be possible, but does warn on overloads such as I'm experiencing, and posits a VLAN as the solution.
Since I cannot seem to get that to work for me, I posted here for insights & assistance. (got a lot of good advice, for sure)
This is a domestic implementation, and a low priority one, so budget is a significant factor
However, I think my next step is to restructure my network and try to leverage the existing cable runs to the destination location as a direct connection for a point-to-point balun, eliminating the network. I'll just need to find another way to bring WiFi to the destination location.
Thanks for the time and sharing of knowledge.
These are great points, thank you.
My supervisor is aware of the situation and knows that I am buying a small home in State B to be next to my sick family member part-time. They didn't ask and didn't want to know how time will be split between State A and State B.
Thanks for the info. I haven't had any luck seeing how exactly an ExpressVPN solution could work on a Dream Machine Pro. Do you know if it's limited to L2TP vs. a commercial VPN provider?
The Switch 24 POE will meet your requirements (provides 95W power) and ties into the Unifi management. It’s $379 USD, but it’s suffering from supply chain issues like everything else.
On the cheapest end, you can buy a power strip and just use the power injectors.
I sense you may be looking for something in the middle. Maybe something like this Netgear switch:
Limited-time deal: NETGEAR 16-Port PoE Gigabit Ethernet Plus Switch (GS316EP) - Managed, with 15 x PoE+ @ 180W, 1 x 1G SFP Port, Desktop or Wall Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VD4N2TN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_JH0F7D5ERJ59KN1EK9G7.
Since the device is capable of 1 Gig, and the APs don't have a sleep mode, it is almost certainly one of the cables. If you have a basic cable tester, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/
That's similar to the one I have had for years. It will tell you which pairs are not connected properly, and where they might be cross connected in a strange way.
I am not sure what you mean by an "RJ45 pass through jack".
Thought I’d post an update: I decided to order a few different Ubiquiti Injectors and found this one that worked perfectly.
It’s not from the UniFi range of injectors but works completely flawlessly with PoE++ in the Access system. The link is a U.K. Amazon link but I’m sure you can use the details to find the same injector wherever you are located. Basically a POE injector that supports 50-60W 50 Volts (V) with 1.2 Amps (A).
Hope this helps people in the future:
Ubiquiti Networks POE-50-60W 50 V 1.2 A PoE
I had the exact same experience with the exact same two pieces of equipment. The link lights would turn on, but no connection otherwise.
These SFP modules have worked flawlessly since I installed them.
QSFPTEK 10G SFP RJ45 Module, 10Gbe Mini-GBIC SFP+ to rj45 Module10GBASE-T Copper Transceiver for Ubiquiti UF-RJ45-10G, Netgear AXM765,Supermicro, Unifi, up to 30m https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07VRQB2JW/
I have the G4 running for almost a year now.
I have it hooked up to this chime box - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KG27K4W
and have it powered up with this transformer (my house didn't have a doorbell before I installed this) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B083R621RV
Works great as long as the doorbell has good wifi coverage.
kwmobile Cage Nut Insertion/Removal Tool - Cage Nut Tool for Installation and Extraction of Cage Nuts in 10 Inch and 19 Inch Network Cabinet Racks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJB7HCX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EJFM9N28HTP47064X9WY
"Rack" implies components are not enclosed and cooling is from natural convection (free air movement of heat rising).
"Cabinet" implies components are enclosed and may benefit from some forced convection (fan).
I got this for a client recently. It will be deployed in a basement mechanical room:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VUOAPG
You can do this on the UDM in CLI, but it's not officially supported. Have a look at the split-vpn on the UDM. ExpressVPN works perfectly fine with this script.
I'll be honest, I don't understand what you wrote. I'm a software guy, my networking ability doesn't extend much past plugging cables in. I'm using ExpressVPN, and was hoping that I would just be able to connect that through the UDM Pro Site-to-Site VPN.
I live in a gated community, and we are having issues with mailboxes getting broken into at our community gate.. I am probably one of 3 properties that has decent lime of site to the area right next to the gate.
Goals: Security camera (ptz possibly) such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083TX4J2D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_V48XWJKB6R5KYMB74HS5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have one of those already, and allows me to have backup SD card, backup to cloud $$, and I can invite others to view the camera feed.. I did manage to get one for $100 a few weeks back. Price wise perfect.
I have power down by the gate, but will need to connect the gate area to my house for connectivity.
Was thinking maybe a couple m5 nanobeams?
But then also looking for something that might be able to act more as a wifi AP also.. Mount the antenna where it is circled. Run cat 6 w/Poe in conduit back to the gate 100' from circle. Then put the Solar powered camera on a light pole and connect via WiFi back to the AP/nanobeam..
Trying to do this on a budget as I don't expect to be reimbursed.. this is more for my sanity than anyone else's..
I’ve had issues with my UDMPro and using the SFP+ adapter for failover.
The first adapter (had laying around) I used would show up using ethtool on the command line and the UDM would see it but it would never get an IP.
The second adapter I purchased based on people saying it worked and it did up until about a month ago. Nothing changed just a system update or two on the UDM. It would act like the first one, it’d see it but never get an IP or anything.
I’m now using this one. SFP to RJ45 1000Base-T SFP, 1.25G SFP RJ45 Copper Module, RJ45 SFP for Cisco GLC-T/SFP-GE-T,Meraki, Ubiquiti UF-RJ45-1G, MikroTik, Netgear, Supermicro, Broadcom, D-Link, TP-Link, 100M, FLYPROFiber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094NDMS9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YGD958CY0B9R8ART0FGT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and it’s working out fine. I just hope another system update doesn’t sound how prevent it from working.
Overall I do like my UDMPro. My biggest issue is the fact that we need to use these SFP adapters to enable a unreliable WAN2.
I would say that the running a patch cable would be best. But this is just my thoughts. Or another option that might be easier, is there are Wifi Bridges that have ethernet cables that come out of them so you can connect a switch to a wireless network (example is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQEX8BO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 there are probably better ones out there then this example but, for an example it should give you an idea) so that way you could connect them to a wireless netowrk and still provide them with a "wired connection" Just have it connect to the wireless and let them plug it into the wan port of any router they choose to get.
This is what I upgraded to when I swapped to the G4.
Endurance Pro 24V 40VA Thermostat Doorbell Transformer, Power Supply Compatible with Nest, Ecobee, Sensi, Honeywell Thermostat, Nest Hello Doorbell and All Versions of Ring Doorbell https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QBVGVL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PRS0JGS70NN3KBZPSACV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I already had an existing mechanical chime in place. Many out there will work.
Same some AC/DC voltage switching and use one of these DC POE injector I have one on a remote AP and it works great.
Depends on the carrier you have, but something like this NETGEAR 4G LTE Broadband Modem (LM1200) – Use LTE as a Primary Internet Connection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R813HLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DV49HGFNXDQ7E2M8XX4Q will work. Basically any hotspot that has an Ethernet port and supports a bridge mode.
I went with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085MXB7GY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The size works well for small spaces: 2.05 by 1.95 by 1.57
I had originally ordered one which was not ETL or UL listed. So when looking for others, I would make sure that they have been certified.
Went to look it up. I am actually running an SFP+ DAC Twinax passible cable from Gtek to go from the ESXI server to the XG-16 switch. (Two of them, because the network card has two ports).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHS3NCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The fiber is running between the switches, but isn't in the loop for this issue. Those are Ubiquiti U Fiber Multi-Mode SFP UF-RJ45-1G adapters.
On the two DAC cables, they are not aggregated or teamed.
The confusing thing for me is (unless I am reading the numbers wrong) I am getting about 5 G. So about halfway to where I should be.
I also forgot to mention. I will running cables to the walls so I can hard wire about 3-4 computers to start.
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This switch is about much less and seems to have all poe ports compared to unifi. I'm not to familiar. Whats your opinion on netgear over unifi switches? Seems to have enough power