I think you need to disable WebSafe, worked for me and I use NordVPN.
Sign in to the My Virgin Media page online -
Under "My Package", you'll see "Broadband" and just below that "Manage my WebSafe Settings".
My VPN would not work until WebSafe was off.
I have been using this one for the past couple months from Amazon with the Virgin V6 box at 4K and a Raspberry Pi 4 at 4K, working as expected and no hiccups that I have noticed. I purchased it for £5 on prime day but (without looking into other options) I would say it's still worth it at £10 :)
Note: I'm not sure if HDMI splitters effect your gameplay in terms of FPS. If you're only going to be running at 60fps (whether that's a game/console bottleneck or a display bottleneck) you should be good to go However, I'm not sure of the results of trying to get 60+fps, maybe these devices effect it maybe they don't, hopefully someone more experienced could provide some clarity on this.
Standard F satellite cable. Just search Amazon for Virgin Media extension cable.
10M WHITE VIRGIN MEDIA TV & BROADBAND EXTENSION CABLE - FREE SHIPPING! FROM 5 STAR CABLES! https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0074RZ1TC/
Sorry, I'm confused.
Is the VPN running on the router or on your computer? The reason I ask is that VPNs configured to run at a router level often run at terrible speeds because it requires significant processor power to run a VPN at router-level, and even decent routers like that have shit CPUs.
Or do you use the TorGuard/NordVPN programs on your desktop instead?
Ok. One more sanity check is to bring your PC to the same room as the router and see if it can detect the 5GHz network. If it can't, it's likely your computer doesn't support 5GHz rather than it being a signal strength thing.
From your description, it sounds like this issue might be related to your PC or its WiFi drivers from your description.
First thing I'd try is to uninstall and reinstall the WiFi drivers using the latest installer from the appropriate manufacturer website. After you uninstall the driver your WiFi will stop, so make sure you have the ability to connect your computer to the router by ethernet and/or pre-download the driver installer.
In the case your WiFi doesn't support 5GHz, or reinstalling the drivers doesn't help, if your computer is a desktop PC you could upgrade its WiFi card. I would suggest an Intel-based WiFi card, my friend has this one and it's good.
I’m using Private Internet Access via virgin without any problems.
I think the web safety thing is the issue as someone else pointed out, I turned that off on day one, and haven’t been blocked to anything.
>TP-Link AX5400
Thanks bud. Would that be this one, currently on a BF deal on Amazon?
I run my routers, switches and main wireless from a small UPS like this: APC BE700G-UK 405 Watts /700... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002RXED6A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Can highly recommend doing this as it means that your Internet will stay up in a power cut, and it keeps your devices safe.
Are you testing when everyone is disconnected? If the other 4 people are using the internet then your speed testing will be flawed.
Are you testing with https://www.speedtest.net/ (VMs go to) or are you trying to download from a specific site(s)?
it was the websafe setting for me. As soon as I set up my virginmedia account and disabled the websafe 'virus safe' setting, it worked.
I specifically use a VPN to keep myself protected and safe online. NordVPN are one of the biggest in the world. Virgin saying they are a virus risk is the incredibly disingenuous and misleading. More like a risk to virginmedia gathering data on you
Hi mate.
This is what you need: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B083JVPXDY/
It worked perfectly for me capping the 2021 Champions League Final in 4K to my PC's capture card.
My PC's capture card is this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Capture-PassThrough-Superior-Latency-Technology/dp/B07VWXCXM7
I got the capture card from Ebay for around £150 in 2021, but you don't need to go that high, there are more economical capture cards (some are external and work via USB, if you don't want to faff about installing one inside a PC), plus if you aren't concerned with 4K you can save that way as well.
Just get a wifi extender (like this:https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-EX6120/dp/B01560JGQW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=wifi+extender+booster&qid=1662903493&sprefix=wifi+%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1) - plug it into the ethernet, and create a new wifi network for the shed. You don't need to touch your Virgin box at all.
I use this exact method in my shed, except I use an ethernet over power system so I don't need to run an ethernet cable to the shed, it all goes over the power extension lead.
Buy a VPN connect to a server close to you and it will bypass all of that. VPN's are also handy for accessing content that's not normally available in your country.
​
NordVPN is a reputable one.
I use various different VPNs on VM all day every day, there are no blocks that Websafe can do - VPN "wraps" the network traffic and the ISP is no longer able to see what the real request is, they just see encrypted data packets going to a specific IP address that turns out to be a VPN gateway.
VPN's the simplest way around this and is probably safer for OP to use as a matter of habit (comes with bonus Ad-blocking features from most services).
OP, if you check out most any Youtuber, their videos probably have a code for SurfsharkVPN (I got 3 years of service for around £30 via a code on a youtube video). NordVPN and Private Internet Access are alternatives, but they aren't as good as there's been some controversies with privacy on these services.
As long as the wiring is live you should be fine.
I have to move my router from upstairs to downstairs.
It was upstairs in a bedroom near a second virgin box.
I removed the router and connected directly to the box and it worked fine.
Plugged in router downstairs next to the main box and used the splitter they supplied for upstairs to connect router and box.
See if you have a splitter somewhere, looks like this Splitter
You cannot connect the outside aerial to the virgin box or router.
You can use any existing virgin coax cable if it’s lives.
Sounds like you need an adapter for female/male
You could ask virgin to send you one and explain what you are trying to do.
I think the adapter is an RG6 connector it looks like this
I'm on the same broadband package and had been using the standard virgin hub3 which they provide. Following searching online and asking around here and on virgin forums, the consensus was that virgin routers are terrible for both range coverage and handling multiple users and devices.
I did as someone else here mentioned, bought a third party router and put the virgin hub into modem mode, it's been far far better since then. I bought this router: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B089DJJ5RS
You definitely don't need something a expensive as those and definitely not a "gaming router". You just need a router that can do QoS, to prioritise your gaming traffic. Something like this should be more than enough.
I got this on sale at £170 so might be worth keeping an eye out and its fantastic. Honestly any ISP router is going to serriously suck.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08FT6NWZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had issues with with Virgin too but found that they all stemmed from the terrible hub 3. I have since put it in modem mode and bought a Tenda WiFi Mesh. I have not had any problems since. Just something to think about if you struggle to leave your contract.
Can you not use wired for PS5?
If not then, you may get better performance from 2.4 if the signal is weak.
Use something like this to determine what bands to use.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
It is probably possible on a £45 Huawei router, but I haven't tried.
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/HUAWEI-Quad-core-Revolution-NFC-enabled-Connection/dp/B08JGTCSXZ
User reviews indicate quite a few doing 1gbit wirelessly. But hey I am downvoted for saying "only in lab conditions" is wrong :/
I've got one of these on another machine and it works nicely - it's a lot of money for a hub IMO.
i-tec USB 3.0/USB-C 5K Universal Dual Display Docking Station 2x 4K 60Hz 2x HDMI 2x Display Port 1x GLAN 6x USB-A 3.0 1x Audio Input/Output K-Lock Windows Mac OS Linux Android Thunderbolt 3 compatible https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075ND6FQ9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GX1CC0XKG504RFP0BETN
This looks like it'd do the job though!
Your motherboard is impacted as it has the I225 lan controller.
You can Google all the issues with the i225 at your leisure, I have a B550-F and had the same issue, I spent about 8-10 hours troubleshooting and trying to fix the issue with the driver, updating, roll back, messing with the network settings after finding someone that advised of a fix, nothing worked for me.
I ended up buying a 1Gbps LAN card (link below) and that fixed it immediately. AFAIK the issue is unresolved by Intel/ASUS. You might try downloading Asus armoury crate and updating the ethernet driver but that made things worse for me (topped out about 50Mbps)
Lan card:
One of many links about the issue:
I signed up for a trial (I think NordVPN) for warzone on the Xbox because at the time people said it improves your games connection etc. I cancelled it as didn’t notice a difference but since I had it my internet seems different like controlled.
I'm having this type of issue once I installed NordVPN I'm getting this ERR_CONNECTION_RESET on certain websites. I even get it once my phone uses my WiFi. Once I take my phone off my home WiFi and use it's Verizon phone service the issue is gone. So I'm not sure what it does but I'm sure it has something to do with my home router or the Xfinity modem.
Maybe I'll try a cat 5e? It's out of a tplink box so that must be capable.
In terms of the Cat 7 cable...
Maybe you can answer that? Reviews are good but most users know about as much as me, I guess.
Ah I see. I read 'uni accomodation' and assumed halls.
I'm not too sure what to suggest but I'm guessing the reason you've had no luck with Mullvad is that it's a popular VPN service so might be blacklisted by the developers of the game?
I got a 7m one from Amazon for about £12.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B75VBR6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00ST2WV76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Currently using a Cat 7 as the 20 metre ethernet from the TP link to the Asus router. The one going into my pc which is where I've done the speed tests is a Cat 5e Im pretty sure. The cable reads "26AWG 4 Pair".
Do you think its the cable?
I have this and it’s worth every penny
ASUS RT-AX86U 5700 Dual Band + WiFi 6 Gaming Router, PS5 Compatible, upto 2250 sq ft & 35+ devices, NVIDIA GeForce Now, Lifetime Free Internet Security, Mesh WiFi support, 2.5G port gaming port, black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08CBCR6BB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BP8YJVBD5Q9JYT2G7Q6K
I would port the number to a VOIP provider such as Sipgate and then buy an ATA like this:
Grandstream HandyTone HT801 ATA https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XW1BQHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZJZ4MM2QQE2TFH5E3ETR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This box plugs into the router and the existing analogue phone, and basically converts it into a VOIP phone. I know you said your parents are dubious of this but they should notice no difference usability wise and would carry on using their existing phone handset as normal. Effectively most ISPs (including new Virgin connections) do this now anyway as the phone plugs into the back of the router instead of a separate “landline” socket.
Your parents would then be free to move to any ISP without losing the number. It might also be handy if they are looking to move house and end up moving outside of the current area code.
I've got the RT-AC86U and its been running really well. Get 400mbps on my phone on the second floor. It's gone down to £110 at times. You can set up a notification on https://uk.camelcamelcamel.com/ the next time it drops price.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-RT-AC86U-AiProtection-Accelerator-Aggregation/dp/B075WFL15D
I recommended the router I have to another user on here and as far as I’m aware they’re still happy with it. But more than £150, but it is a superb router and not had a single issue. Wi-Fi is super strong - I still get nearly 300mbps in my shed at the end of the garden. Was sceptical about spending this much to begin with but it’s been worth every penny. Easy to set up and has a brilliant app to control everything.
ASUS RT-AX86U 5700 Dual Band + WiFi 6 Gaming Router, PS5 Compatible, upto 2250 sq ft & 35+ devices, NVIDIA GeForce Now, Lifetime Free Internet Security, Mesh WiFi support, 2.5G port gaming port, black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08CBCR6BB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_T5Q1WEFZN1G207GPWF3F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah cheers been looking at that this TP Deco
TP-Link Deco S4 Whole-Home Mesh Wi-Fi System, Up to 4000 sq ft Coverage, Qualcomm CPU, Dual-Band AC1200 with Gigabit Ports, Up to 100 devices connection, Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa, Pack of 3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0851D6MXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YTC1E2S2EG5QY18GGDX4
It’s £30 more than the one you suggested so assuming it’s a slight upgrade?
Just did the upgrade: https://www.speedtest.net/result/9679781813.png
It was actually a pretty painless experience through the live chat and I had a really nice customer service rep to deal with.
I still long for my old synchronous 1Gbps fibre but the M500 package's 68-70MB/s download speeds are a welcome improvement.
https://www.speedtest.net/my-result/i/3956867311
Here’s one I just did on a Vodafone server. It’s fast 24/7. I use an awful lot of data, believe me, it’s always like this. I’ll run a speed test any time of the day just let me know.
I've got a TP-LINK Archer AC3200. I had plenty of different routers in the past, D-Link, ASUS, Belkin, Linksys etc. They all failed me in terms of reliability and speed. I've had this TP-LINK for 4 years now and it's NEVER crashed and always given me massive speed over wifi. It's an old router now so I wouldn't recommend it today, I'd get whatever is in their current line-up.
As for speed test on desktop, my result is even better than wifi:
https://www.speedtest.net/result/9556416880
Maybe your PC is using wifi, or if you are using a wired connection, your ethernet cable may be CAT5 rather than CAT5E meaning that you can only reach up to 100mbps with that cable in which case you need a CAT5E cable. Look on the side of the cable, usually they have writing telling you what kind it is.
There’s nothing wrong with virgin media’s service. I have used it in 6 different places in my life, all with my own router and their hub in modem mode. Don’t use their hub.
Here is my Speedtest from my phone using my own WiFi, I’m getting the full speed of the broadband over the WiFi..
Its absolutely just the router itself. Saw your post, ran a test and this is what I got
https://www.speedtest.net/result/9553876087
I've had one issue in the past 12 months when they were doing some major maintenance work and it was off for less than 2 hours. I've got a speed and quality connection on monitoring 24/7 (though speeds are tested periodically) and it never flickers.
Buy a good third party router, stick Virgins hub in to Modem Only mode and you've got the best of everything really.
With virgin for 13 years, only a couple of problems in that time... otherwise its been rock solid.
Recently switch the router into modern only mode and use google wifi to get a mesh across a three floor house
Im on the cheap package.. but its fine
​
PING ms15 DOWNLOAD Mbps218.48 UPLOAD Mbps10.42
​
Im with Virgin and currently on a Wifi Connected Chromebook with 100Mbps connection. We are not hardcore gamers but often have three streaming or 2 streams Xbox Minecraft or Sims.
We do get some drop outs but nothing serious tbh.
​
Ping 15 DOWNLOAD Mbps87.47 UPLOAD Mbps9.88
​
Without really buying another router and sticking it in to modem mode (which everyone will recommend to do anyway) then you can buy (or if you have one lying around) a Raspberry Pi and installed Pi Hole. Though again, you'll run in to issues because I don't believe the SuperHub's let you specify the DNS Server (could be wrong, haven't looked in a long time).
That then being the case would mean you'd have to manually enter the DNS details of every device to point them to Pi Hole. This all being if I've understood what you're wanting from this, if not then ignore me over here ^__^
Google Nest is white and you can buy a bracket
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Delidigi-Google-Bracket-Holder-Management-White/dp/B083GVY16V?th=1
Not sure if this is what you want though as it is a seperate item
Had the install and all was running fine with downloads much faster than 80/20 FTTC with reduced ping.
Before https://www.speedtest.net/result/9028525033.png After https://www.speedtest.net/result/9038313417.png
So far so good...... then an hour after install both the V6 STB and Hub's connections go dead, power cycle fails to fix.
Oh well time to to call Virgin CS, the CS rep I got in India was good and walked through what appears to have been an network admin error with access being denied (Hub error message). CS rep also dealt with the landline number transfer issue (web order failure).
Cautiously optimistic.
I'd also highly recommend the tp link ax73, at £99 it's an absolute steal and solved all the issues you mention in your post: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B092B15ZNW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_F3BTV8K1GJWGQVF29521
Modem mode does work, you've done something wrong there. Also modem mode with your own router would solve literally all the problems you've described here:
I bought from Amazon. Comes with cable and an adapter to join the new cable to the old cable. Moved the router, connected new cable to Virgin’s router, worked with no issues.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=abdelrahman.wifianalyzerpro
Paid version is a bit better, you can tell if your virgin is dropping from checking the event logs within the router itself.
Other than that setup a thinkbroadband BQM and let if rub for a while. (This won't give you any information regarding your extenders - more information on what these are would be helpful though.)
Got friends with these connected on 900Mbps FTTP: https://www.amazon.co.uk/HUAWEI-Quad-core-Revolution-NFC-enabled-Connection/dp/B08JGTCSXZ
Not bad for £40
Thanks for the reply!
I was looking through amazon yesterday and found this one. Do you recon this is good or do I have go for something bit more expensive?
You could get an extension for your existing broadband to your bedroom and it would he faster than getting a separate supplier.
Either run through a powerline adapter like this
TP-Link AV600 Powerline Adapter Wi-Fi Kit, Wi-Fi Booster/Hotspot/ Extender, Wi-Fi Speed up to 300Mbps, 2+1 Ethernet Ports, No Configuration Required, Wi-Fi Auto-Sync, UK Plug (TL-WPA4220 KIT) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LXOZ4EN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_REQH9QXGQ88S0J6VGKJK
Or as a mesh network like this
TP-Link Deco M4 Whole Home Mesh Wi-Fi System, Up to 4000 sq ft Coverage, Qualcomm CPU, Dual-Band AC1200 with Gigabit Ports, Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa, Parent Control, Pack of 3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07NH1J543/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YACR7WZBRT5QSCYZ04P6
So if you close the app and reopen, it works "for a bit" then stops.
How does your ISP know you've closed the app and therefore offer you a bit more service? You're perfectly explaining an app or device problem.
Anyhow. Yes, you pay for 50mbit broadband, but you don't pay for a business level SLA and 24/7 technical support, so don't get pissy with random Internet strangers who are trying to help you.
If you want a solution to your problem, give more details.
What app? What device? WiFi or wired? Have you tried another device? Is this the first time or is it every night?
Seriously look into changing the DNS, though. Yes, it's not "required", but it will increase your security and remove one of the weaknesses from the system. Personally I recommend Quad9 and although you can't change this on the Superhub, you should be able to change it the device you're having issues with.
Help us to help you.
Make your own cheap as heck one. A lot more satisfying as there’s no blocks or anything and it’s a few dollars a month.
https://www.linode.com/marketplace/apps/linode/openvpn/
Or for the more tech savvy
This is reassuring as I have VM scheduled to be installed on Thursday with the M500 package. You could look at setting up Grafana on a Raspberry Pi and have that running speed tests every so often and eventually it will build a graph showing your speed tests. This is what I have done when I was on my old VDSL connection.
I personally use the Asus RT-AX92U because I do a lot of high-bandwidth local network stuff (like Oculus Quest 2 wireless PC connection), but I pair it with a much cheaper Asus RT-AX55 for the office I work in. I like the Asus because as long as the router supports their "AiMesh technology standard" you can mix and match according to your budget.
For gaming, don't believe the hype from router manufacturers too much, for most people, there's not much difference between a £300+ AX6000+ "Gaming" router and a more mid range router. For any kind of gaming machine it's always better to connect using a network cable (WiFi is NEVER quite as quick as Wired Ethernet, WiFi is not truly bi-directional it's more of a broadcast, and wait for response kind of thing). You should always measure your connection speed should by the ping and upload/send speed rather than the download speed as this is more useful for cases like yours (gaming). Download is more useful for Internet Browsing and video streaming (less data needs to be sent back to the server you connect to)
Your actual internet connection and what kind of wireless card your computer has is more important (if you use a console older than PS5/Xbox Series, it won't support Wifi6) and unless your computer specifically states it supports Wifi6 you'll never get the full benefit of using the AX/Wifi6 standard. Any non-ISP router will be better than the one you get from VM (ISP routers are always cheap and underpowered), so you can't go too wrong with most choices, but TP-Link's "Archer" series are always a good bet for simple and effective - this TPLink Archer AC1750 would probably be a significant upgrade for not much money
TP-Link Deco M5 Whole Home Mesh Wi-Fi System, Up to 5500 sq ft Coverage, Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa, Antivirus Security Protection and Parental Controls, Pack of 3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071241G3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_VE33RDB1W9SB4C6N3WCQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd go with these, good value doesn't have AX support but AC is decent nevertheless
I'll get onto my pc in a bit but you sound pretty on it and I've prematurely ordered a card TP-Link Gigabit PCI Express Network Adapter - Green, 32-bit PCI Express/1 10/100/1000 Mbps RJ45 port, IEEE 802.3x flow control, Win 10/8.1/8/7/Vista/XP (TG-3468) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003CFATNI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GJ5Z1Z2QEN5F6A8ZPRMF
>TP-Link Deco
Would you happen to have a link to the 3 node mesh network (10/100/1000 Ethernet ports) you would suggest? I'm seeing all sorts and am getting quite confused. Found this one but one review says it is not a true mesh network: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Deco-M5-Coverage-Replacement-Antivirus/dp/B07RK4VT3T/ref=bmx_18?pd_rd_w=tr9Y5&pf_rd_p=6398e171-4f42-4318-a493-6aac0e34c3e5&pf_rd_r=TGSDM0GNHNPHCD3GS2BS&pd_rd_r=aa93ca30-ab50-448f-bea0-d39a3bcb7bec&pd_rd_wg=Ou0v6&pd_rd_i=B07FG569ZN&th=1
As usual on this sub, which router are you using? If you're using your own fancy one are you using any sort of QoS?
What happens if you run your connection through a VPN? If you don't have one, Mullvad.
Good to know, I’m using various different VPN connections all day, I’ve most most over to an HTTP based protocol (SSTP, or SSL-VPN appliance) but have a couple that are still L2TP. As well as using NordVPN for bypassing “geo restrictions”.
I know for a customer they had to remove the static IP option VM gave them as that runs over a GRE tunnel, which totally broke the site-to-site L2TP VPN. The regular dynamic addressing worked fine.
The pods virgin uses seem to be rebranded plume pods:
https://www.plume.com/homepass/shop
They're known as wifi mesh systems - most of this sub seems to swear by the tp link deco m5:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071241G3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_6HDVMMHTW57F2PNBATAQ
Thats the same router (looks like) that chuckstardeluxee suggested, just on a more expensive website. it's £103 on Amazon
On Amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/MikroTik-RBD52G-5HACD2HND-TC-hAP-ac2/dp/B079SD8NVQ/
Yes stops things cutting out, Mikrotik is enterprise level hardware, usually used for business data lines and VPN remote workers.
There's a Mikrotik Reddit if you need assistance but it was pretty much plug and play.
Mate get this. You won’t get better for £100.
NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart Wifi Router (R7000) - AC1900 Wireless Speed (up to 1900 Mbps) | Up to 1800 sq ft Coverage & 30 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 2 USB ports | Armor Security https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HDK4GAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_.UPZFbGAK55FY
The tp link that I've bought only has one ethernet port, which it receives power from. The only way to connect the hub to the tp is via ethernet, there are no other ports.
Its this one.
> They contain a hard drive and don't respond well to being constantly moved.
Hard drives aren't particularly sensitive to this, assuming OP isn't throwing their TiVo about.
But I agree re: output source.
> You would also need to extend the infrared remote.
It would be well coupled with a WiFi-based IR remote control system like this so they can continue to use the remote controls in the other room via their phone.
(Note: I'm not recommending that particular WiFi IR product, I've never used it, I personally have a Harmony remote control, which has an app-based remote too)
I have checked VM forums and VM staff claim they do not throttle at all, its mentioned here directly:
They claim they do still traffic manage 'other' but its not exactly saying openvpn or torrenting.
I know from peak times usually 6pm to 10pm they also shape and reduce your entire speed by 50 or 75% also, this is obvious since if you run speed test @ 8pm peak time its usually half and then again after midnight its doubled.
I too, have tried much, but have a similar issue to what you may have I have tried modem mode and router mode, netgear and Asus routers and pfsense and torrenting (even ubuntus) for speed test get limited by 80% of my entire speed after a few sessions.
Am using UDP on Mullvad VPN provider, but tried TCP and same effect. Torrent program is tweaked nicely also port forwarding set up and showing as working and uDP switched off since openvpn requires TCP protocol only.
Am left wondering if VM just throttle openvpn now it would explain all my issues !
There is a big thread on the topic of NordVPN and VM throttling etc but I cannot remember if it is on OCUK forum or VM forums.
either way I think it tirs to this: Virgin Media UK Move to Fix 20Mbps Speed Cap on IPv6 Tunnels - ISPreview UK
Quick Update for Virgin Media Speed Issues on IPv6 Tunnels - ISPreview UK
I'm not too sure if Netflix functions whilst a VPN is active as I've heard from some people on a range of subs.
However, unless there is a way you can sideload NordVPN on the box itself (very unlikely) you will he to redirect your V6's traffic to another router that has VPN support or you could use something like a raspberry pi to do a similar thing (V6 internet traffic to raspberry pi / VPN router to NordVPN US server to Netflix)
I have personally used the raspberry pi method (not for Netflix) and it worked brilliantly. For the router method I'm not too sure what routers support VPNs, I personally use pfSense for this but this may be a bit more of an advanced setup.
Sorry but no. it's not a VPN issue. I've tried two different VPN's, TorGuard and NordVPN. both have the same issue. as soon as I remove modem mode and use router mode, the speeds are fine. it's a decent router, too; Archer C7V5. tried with stock firmware and OpenWRT. it's really annoying me, to be honest. I've turned off uTP, disabled everything I could think of and it's still giving really bad speeds. I give up.
oh ok that is interesting so just to double check from peak time 8-9pm you can still run okla speedtest and hit 350Mbps+ just fine?
I use port 443 on AirVPN currently, tried other ports and SSL and others but no joy, possible they are throttling torrents or encryption in general not sure.
Still if you are able to get full speedtest on okla this could indicate VM got a line fault my end.
This is the solution, it’s what I’ve done as well and I haven’t looked back. The range on SH3 is notoriously bad, I switched my SH3 to modem mode and hooked up a 3rd party ASUS Router: ASUS RT-AC1200G+ Dual-Band... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01F4WOFD6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (cheaper to get a used but like new one)
I’ve gone for this as I should get it by 22:00 tonight: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Ethernet-Gigabit-Network-Compatible/dp/B00AQM8586/
I’ve also got this arriving tomorrow: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Deco-M4-Seamless-Coverage-Replacement/dp/B07NH1J543/
So in theory by tomorrow evening I should have a 500 mbps ethernet connection and a wifi connection something close to that using the Deco mesh wifi system.
Thanks and fingers crossed.
You can ignore 99% of the marketing BS, for your purpose the important part is the rating (AC-xxxx). What you've linked is a router with an optional AP mode rated at AC-750 (750mbps). Wifi speed is half duplex which in the real world means throughput is roughly half that, at best, under optimal conditions. Depending on your VM service that might be the bottleneck.
I'd go with something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/D-Link-DAP-2610-Wi-Fi-Power-Access/dp/B06XYTGT5M/ as it's designed to be an AP rather than a router which also has the benefit of faster WiFi speed for the same money.
If you're technically minded then you could also look into Ubiquiti's Unifi range to create a proper "whole house" WiFi but it does require some setup.
You could get the Netgear r7800, I have it, I also use a custom firmware (by Voxel) for better bug fixes and stability. It offers all of the extra features you don’t find on the regular hub 3. Including the stability you’re looking for, as I’ve had no issues for a couple years with it.
Just not sure if it’s in the price range you’re looking for.
NETGEAR R7800 Nighthawk X4S Dual-Band AC2600 Smart Wi-Fi Router https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01B4X503S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vAc7Cb6YN41HP
Virgin will always say that theirs is the best. They also say that about their SH so you can't believe a word they say. If you found that their extender worked it is very likely that a cheap one from amazon :: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Extender-Broadband-Ethernet-TL-WA850RE/dp/B00AHXXJVW/ref=sr_1_4?adgrpid=54252782398&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz6PnBRCPARIsANOtCw2jssfHbLtdlHwVJpKr5suOJDoip5q4t9yqebS_6lxAMY9JPZYI0zAaAgmIEALw_wcB&hvadid=259134673622&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9044919&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t4&hvqmt=e&hvrand=587227324056320763&hvtargid=kwd-315536009697&hydadcr=25459_1819762&keywords=wifi-boosters&qid=1558813978&s=computers&sr=1-4
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would probably work just as well. That one also allows you to plug an ethernet cable into it so that might help too.
It's Virgin Media's job to supply internet at the speed stated on your contract. It isn't their job to deal with walls or interference in your home (hence why they ask you to use ethernet).
If you don't mind running a wire or two across the flat, an access point (such as this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-EAP225-AC1350-MU-MIMO-Access/dp/B01LRQW0GM).
If running wires aren't an option, I'd probably get a better router. If you only get 1 bar 6 metres away, a booster will probably not help much at all and might even make it worse because of the interference.
Thanks for catching that i got https://smile.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-RT-AC51U-Dual-Band-Wireless-Multifunctional/dp/B00XUDWDZE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1531822498&sr=8-5&keywords=asus+router
I'm on a bit of a budget so best i can do.
You need a small switch to between between the superhub and your router. Something like this should work
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-SG105-Steel-Gigabit-Switch/dp/B001EVGIYG
If you mean you want to extend the cable from the wall junction to the coaxial connection on your SuperHub, you'll need standard Satellite/Coaxial F-Type cable.
Cable Mountain Deluxe 3m Gold Shielded F-TYPE RG59 Satellite/Cable Coaxial https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004WBJ8YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-wvmzbR06VKQT
Maplin should sell it if you need it today.
If you are extending your existing cable, you'll also need a coupler, female on both sides.
CDL Micro F Type Connector Satellite Cable Female to Female Coupler/Joiner/Gender/Changer (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EANNNY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kzvmzb17909FF