If you stuck on N, and you want this:
Just sideload:
Buy something like this instead and you won’t have to worry about having access to the back of the tv.
No. Your TV only supports a max of 18GBps over HDMI so a 48GBps cable isn't going to help. As long as you're using Premium Certified HDMI cables (such as these) then you're already getting the best out of your TV and connected hardware.
Kind of like buying higher speed rated tires won't turn your Camry into a Camaro.
Seeing the way your TV is sitting on that TV stand is giving me anxiety.
You should either wall mount or get a universal tv stand because that looks like a tragedy waiting to happen.
I use a govee 16.4 ft on the back of my 85in Sony x900h and it's pretty badass.
Uses a remote and an app for phone to control it.
I love it, music mode is a bit too sensitive and flashy to be of use but the colors are great. I love the dark blue and the green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083BNQYBP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1z-xFb72FB24Y
Can anyone extract the APK for us 2016/15 users please?
I'm on 3.0.0 from APKMirror. Only just noticed 3.0.1 actually, from October 19th. https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/google-app-for-android-tv-android-tv/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S1BDQ4P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$35. Works great with my Arc.
Not a Puffin user but maybe try a different browser. I'd start with the official Vewd Internet Browser and if you don't like that maybe try Firefox TV (great but no longer developed and must be sideloaded).
Any of the combo cables here should work
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3.5+mm+to+RCA+video&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
But this one is using the same picture
Limited-time deal: Full Motion TV Wall Mount Bracket Dual Articulating Arms Swivels Tilts Rotation for Most 37-70 Inch LED, LCD, OLED Flat Curved TVs, Holds up to 132lbs, Max VESA 600x400mm by Pipishell https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZTT1BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F0JE4D1HG0ZERBHCWNCY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You should be able to remotely install Button Remapper to your TV from a web browser. I reprogrammed all of my coloured buttons and it's made the tv much more pleasant to use, since I don't have to deal with the slow af launcher.
https://www.androidpit.com/this-is-why-you-should-not-use-es-file-explorer
Personally i'm using Solid Explorer, and you can stream any content with it from any cloud service, with VLC or Kodi.
Also this is how i sideload apps on my tv.
Mine is stable. The base of the stand is maybe 16 inches wide, and the stand is pretty heavy. I can no longer go back that far in my Amazon order history, but it is either this one or a very similar one:
If you're signed into the Play Store with the same account that you're signed into on the TV it should tell you if the app if compatible with your device. It'll say one of the following.
>This app is compatible with all of your devices.
>This app is compatible with some of your devices.
>This app is incompatible with all of your devices.
Click that line and your BRAVIA TV should be listed with a ✓ or X next to it to indicate if the app is compatible with your device.
If you want to sideload the app if it isnt available via the Play Store then you can download it from APKPure.
https://apkpure.com/privilege-4k/com.culver_digital.privilege_imax
This dude is missing the point.
It isn't like 4k in today's US market costs more. It is a standard feature like air conditioning in a car. Maybe you will notice a difference maybe not. My in-laws said they didn't notice the difference between standard def and high def. . .
and depending on the chart (https://lifehacker.com/can-you-tell-the-difference-between-720p-1080p-and-4k-1731323537/) I'd say some would say your math is off.
I mean if you are looking to save some bucks go buy a used 1080p
If you want a decent television. . .just buy the best in your budget. . and has HDR.
It will probably have 4k. . .if there isn't a equivalent priced HDR without 4k, then you aren't paying for 4k
** you will notice a difference with HDR**
Denon, Marantz or Sony AVR's all function well. My X3600H works perfectly with my X950G.
The Denon S650H supports eARC and offers network connectivity and right now you can get a refurb for $330 from Denon direct and Denon has a remote app available on the Play Store.
I got this table stand that uses the mounting screws. It works amazingly well!
Echogear Universal Large TV Stand - Height Adjustable Base for TVs Up to 77" - Wobble-Free Replacement Stand Works w/ Any TV Including Vizio, TCL, Samsung & More - Flat Design Compatible w/ Soundbars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YN7VRK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R144Y9CR67PEEZGPZ0FC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X6KDQ98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZY3YAR5R1MZHR5676HRP
It's supposed to enable upscaling for the Switch and other consoles. Reviews seem mostly favorable but mixed, so I'm assuming it really depends on TV compatibility.
there are two versions of Apple TV
one is for generic Android TV
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apple.atve.androidtv.appletv
latest version 3.1
and one specifically for Sony TV
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apple.atve.sony.appletv
latest version 2.2
Sony TV version will ask your TV to update to latest firmware, but the generic Android TV version will not.
Nevertheless, this version will have broken images when playing 4K contents
It's not a "learning" remote but can control some other mainstream devices to a degree.
I've found a decent and inexpensive learning remove that I now use in place of all my other remotes. It's the Inteset 4-in-1 universal backlit IR learning remote.
Not 100% sure what you are looking for but I have this so my centre speaker can fit underneath it. You can adjust the height of the TV to get it just above the speaker.
https://www.amazon.com/FITUEYES-Universal-Tabletop-Adjustable-Tempered/dp/B07VPHLPX3
Get a universal tabletop stand off amazon, then you can have whatever size you like, I would let table size limit your TV size, there's always a solution ;)
The XH950 doesn't have HDMI 2.1 and the 49" panel doesn't have the same featues as the bigger sizes I think.
Sony has a version of Calman for their TVs, has for a while as well:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sony.dtv.calibrationmonitor&hl=en_US&gl=US
Ok, im not an expert and dont take my post as an advice. Im pretty sure that it will endure. You can run android games on it, so it should be fine. Also i would suspect that it has some overheating prevention measures. Have you tried that? https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.glgjing.stark&hl=en_US&gl=US
EDIT: If you are really concerned about it, just buy Raspberry PI, it will run everything, it has support for controllers, and you can also use it as pihole for ads.
If it's the newest style tv connector that is compatible with the Marvel or Paradise chip set there is a cable in the box that has a 3.5mm that plugs into the streamer and on the other end of the cable is a toslink optical connector. I'd post a pic but don't know how. They have them on Amazon here's one. It will allow audio to the hearing aids and out of the TV simultaneously. https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=3.5mm+to+toslink+cable&qid=1614014950&sprefix=3.5mm+to+tos&sr=8-3
nothing fancy, already had them and obviously much better than the built in speakers: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06XGG6MFV/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B06XGG6MFV&pd_rd_w=24H5z&pf_rd_p=ee2c0276-494d-4674-b83e-819a186d9d36&pd_rd_wg=qveHF&pf_rd_r=C98HQ5ZDBVXE3Q5W0EEA&pd_rd_r=898fe83e-1f2b-43c9-b0a4-dc96af...
it would be nice to have a center channel for dialogue, as you say. but i don't know how i would do that without getting a whole new complicated system.
For future reference:
Let's say Sony will add 1440p support for PS5, but they won't offer a 1440@120hz OS update for older TVs like X900E/F. What you can do to force this resolution with an EDID Emulator.
stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/HDFury-HDMI-Manager-Emulator-Repeater/dp/B08219N5N1/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=EDID+Emulator&qid=1609922139&sr=8-16
Do you research, because i would guess there will be more devices like that on the market soon, for cheaper.
Just use a dry microfiber cloth to clean your screen. If a dry cloth doesn't do it then get the cloth damp with plain water and use that. Then carefully buff dry with a different dry microfiber cloth.
You shouldn't need to clean your screen with a wet cloth very often as long as you aren't touching it. For dust a dry microfiber cloth or one of those Swiffer Dusters will do the job nicely.
There are a bunch of options on Amazon, I had an aftermarket leg mount attached, ~$25, easy to install.
You shouldn't have to change your mount - i used the longer bolts and rubber spacers that came with the mount to boost the tv another 2 inches or so off the brackets that attach to the mount. If you don't have your original accessories you should be able to find the bolt size somewhere (think all Bravias use the same mounting bolts) and get some generic bolts and spacers.
This is the actual mount I used. Nothing special. Hope this helps!
Anybody try these? TV LED Backlight, Hiromeco 6500K True White Bias Lighting for 60 65inch TV 20 Colors Changing with RF Remote, Dimmable W-Type Led Cover 4/4 Sides Behind TV Background Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DJ5DQZN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_3krWFb9HQRZHT
Edit: I ended up ordering these. I like them, especially for less than $20 on Black Friday. 6500k looks good to me but I am just a hobbyist.
What about these? 8K HDMI Cable, AUDIANO 8K HDMI Cable 100% Real 8K, High Speed 48Gbps 8K@60Hz 7680P Dolby Vision, HDCP 2.2, 4:4:4 HDR, eARC Compatible with Apple TV, Samsung QLED TV (10ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZDDV6DT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_DQEUFbAGX5GNH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The NAND on USB flash drives isn't designed for the constant write/erase cycles that Kodi and other apps will subject them to.
If the 128GB is overkill then you can get a 60GB external SSD for $20.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQYVZCM/
It's a higher cost than your average 32-64GB USB flash drive but the extra money is worth it for the speed and endurance benefits compared to even a good USB flash drive.
At 8GB total capacity the Fire TV will have less free space than than the X900H does. If you really want to expand your storage you should be using an external SSD not a USB flash drive. You can get an external 128GB SSD for $25-30.
Something like the following.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XVSLVBF/
This will give you substantially better read/write speeds and much better durability.
This is the one you are talking about, same seller I think? I was thinking of just pulling the trigger on that one and even if it's bad I got the 90 day and I can return it. It also seems like I can get a 4 year protection plan through Amazon with that too. Thanks so much for your reply.
Right-o. I'm sure it'll be fine since it's from the same seller as mine. In addition, if you have or plan to have a center channel or soundbar, this stand from Amazon is excellent. It compliments the X900E well and allows up to 10" of clearance below the screen for speakers or an avr.
You will be fine with a $10 LED strip off Amazon. I'd also recommend one with a power switch built in because for whatever reason Sony decided not to power down the USB ports on it's TV's when they're turned off.
Edit: This is the one I have.
I had a similar problem with the X850G model. It was kicking off my Sonos soundbar due to the random signals from the optical port. I was able to solve the issue by using the ARC HDMI port from the TV for sound using a Tendac audio extractor I found on Amazon. My soundbar only has an optical input, so this device was able to make the conversion. It was a pretty maddening experience until I found this solution.
I went with Luminoodle RGB + W.
The white is 6000k and comes with a remote. I have a power strip mounted behind the TV and it has a 5v1a USB port that I plugged the lights in to. I use the remote to turn them on/off instead of using the TV port.
I bought several of these Ruipro 6ft and 10ft cables. Seem good so far, although don't have any 4k/120Hz device to test yet. Just running fine with 4k/60Hz. If you go over 10ft, I'd recommend buying the fiber optical variety they have.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082XTQ1X9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this one : Zeskit 8K Ultra HD High Speed 48Gpbs HDMI Cable 6.5ft, 8K60 4K120 144Hz eARC HDR10 Dolby Vision 4:4:4 HDCP 2.2 & 2.3 Compatible with Xbox PS4 PS5 Apple TV 4K Roku Fire TV Switch Vizio Sony LG Samsung
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07S1CGQ9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gLOyFb26A4RWW
I use this PERLESMITH stand with my 65" X950G and highly recommend it.
https://www.amazon.com/PERLESMITH-Universal-Stand-Plasma-Screen/dp/B07XLMQ39D/
There are lower cost options out there but the universal stand was a bargain compared to purchasing a new TV stand. I liked this one over some of the cheaper options because it has a thicker tempered glass base and the footprint is wider and deeper than the cheaper stands for excellent stability.
It was easy for me cause I just used a stand mount and not a wall mount. The legs that come with the tv are to wide for my tv stand. The mount I used just give the tv legs that are a little more center. I did however mount my old 60” that this tv replaced up on the wall in my bedroom. It is super easy but you’ll want someone to help you lift the tv up obviously. I used this mount from amazon, it a quality mount and really solid. They make ones for bigger TVs as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SFSU53G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4BvtFbH5R1BF5
If you're getting audio drop outs from the built-in speakers then it is likely an issue best addressed by a technician.
If you're having issues with an ARC connection to an external device such as an AVR or soundbar then there are some settings you can adjust to help.
Settings > Display & Sound > Audio output > Sound mode sync (Disable)
Settings > Display & Sound > Audio output > A/V sync (Auto)
Settings > Display & Sound > Audio output > eARC mode (Auto or Off)
Settings > Display & Sound > Audio output > Digital audio out (Auto 1)
Settings > Display & Sound > Audio output > Dolby Digital Plus output (Dolby Digital Plus)
Settings > Display & Sound > Audio output > Pass through mode (Off)
Settings > Device Preferences > Sounds > System sounds (Disable)
Settings > Remotes & Accessories > Bluetooth settings > Bluetooth (Disable)
Lastly, and I can't stress how important this is, you really need to use premium certified cables such as those from Monoprice (Monoprice or Amazon).
Someone who knows more than me speaks highly of the Kabeldirect available on Amazon
Similar setup with the X950. I wound up getting a TrickleStar Advanced PowerStrip that senses whether the control device (such as a TV) is either on, off, or in a standby state, and automatically removes and restores supplied power to the switched outlets based on the status of the control device.
Got it on Amazon here. Works like a charm.
It's not headphones, it's a Bluetooth audio transmitter, a source device.
​
I have read several posts at the Nvidia Shield forum, Sony Community forum, and the Nvidia Shield subreddit that describe this exact same problem. Responding to every random Bluetooth pairing request should NOT be the default behavior. Not only is it a blatant security issue, it is a vector for pranks and other shenanigans.
​
I am currently looking into installing an app called "Bluetooth Settings for TV" ( https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=by4a.bluetoothsettings.tv ) that supposedly addresses this problem. There's not much info on this app, so I am approaching with caution.
I wish I could leave on my NordVPN connected constantly on it. If I leave it connected, I have to pull the power to get it to boot up. Regardless the newest update is very nice and I didn't even need to install via the flash. OTA just pushed it. I'm not seeing any input lag on mine.
Edit: doesn't works, mainly because of the sony remote app. So if your WiFi is off, it will complain, if you turn it on, then it starts connecting but it stucks there.
Honestly the quickest answer i can give you is this:
If your router supports openVPN, you can start an openVPN server, use an app like OpenVPN Client, also have Sony's Remote app installed.
So you want to control your tv remotely?
I didn't tested this, but i will try it tomorrow.
You can just download the Sony sideview app on your phone and use voice commands there.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sony.tvsideview.phone&hl=en
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/video-tv-sideview-quick-remote/id594171390?mt=8
Ordered one of these, problem resolved instantly. It’s annoying and stupid that the manufacturer isn’t addressing this but I’m glad it’s gone now and the system sounds great…for now lol
You can't. You need an external device. Something like this should work and should allow volume control over ARC.
Could try this. I use it for my X95K and it’s worked out flawlessly. Not a single drop or choppy audio. I have Sony LinkBuds S ear buds but reviews say they should work with most Bluetooth headphones…
Just saw on Slickdeals, the 900f is being sold on ebay from buydig. 55inch is $999, 65 is 1399. Link: https://slickdeals.net/f/12126181-sony-4k-hdtv-s-55-xbr55x900f-999-75-xbr75x900f-2599-free-s-h?src=catpagev2
If you want HDMI-ARC capability then look at the Klipsch The Fives. If you're fine using a third party remote for volume control then you can save quite a bit by going with the Edifier R1700BTs. Either way you'll get better audio from a set of powered monitors like these then a soundbar of similar price. You'll also want to set Digital Audio Out to PCM on the TV.
Did you go into Netflix settings and select "high" for playback data usage? You might have it set to potato quality from watching on a phone, or something, since quality settings are stupidly controlled by a central web page for your account. This page: https://www.netflix.com/HdToggle
The following should work and is only 15" deep.
https://www.amazon.com/FITUEYES-Universal-Swivel-Adjustable-FTT107003GB/dp/B01CORQRX0/
I use a similar stand, though smaller, on my 65" and its been rock solid for 2+ years.
No problem.
Not sure what cellphones you have, but Android version has been updated in May 2022, so it seems to me that is still supported.
This is what I am referring to: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sony.tvsideview.phone
It's free so maybe its worth checking it out.
​
But yeah, remote controls would be best if you can make them work.
Klipsch Cinema 400 Sound Bar with 8" Subwoofer. At just over $200 its great bang for your buck.
If you're going to spend anything more than $500 then don't get a soundbar as the performance often doesn't match the price tag. At about $500 look at the Yamaha home theater in a box packages from Accessories 4 Less or over about $750 look at discrete separate components (AVR, speakers, subwoofer).
I will try this, if I was you. I own this TV, and I use my Beyerdymanic Headzone over Toslink cable. The TV speakers still work with the Toslink cable plugged in to the TV. I never need to remove the Toslink cable. When I use the Headzone, I just use the remote to disable the TV speakers and use the sound system input. This makes my Beyerdymanic Headzone use surround sound over DTS and Dolby Digital. I really think this will work for you. The Sennheiser RS 170 plugged into the device over 3.5mm headphone jace or RCA cable and then the Toslink cable to TV. You then can use the TV speakers and the RS 170 at the same time if you like. I really hope this helps you out.
I have the A80J and also hate the button layout of the remote. Just yesterday I ordered this glow in the dark nail polish to dab onto a few buttons. Mostly for the feel, but if it glows in the dark that's a bonus. Hopefully it works.
>Is there a way to lean it back without a mount?
To get my A80J to lean forward a bit, I cut strips out of these Super Sliders, and used one under the front halves of the legs, two stacked in the back:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACEKKT4
I put the felt side down so I can easily slide the TV around on my table, and I used a black sharpie to color in the exposed felt on the sides. You'd never know they were there if you didn't look for them. It's been perfectly stable going on a year. I didn't even have to use double-sided tape; the weight of the TV keeps them in place.
For your application, I'd consider these non-slidable GorillaPads:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y66KP48
I use them to level my mouse mat, of all things, as my keyboard shelf with slide-out mouse shelf has drooped a bit to one side.
https://www.amazon.com/Swiffer-Dusters-Refills-Unscented-Count/dp/B008R7CR9A
These? I’d be surprised if they’d leave streaks. But I definitely would switch to using a gentle and good microfiber cloths specifically for screens.
As far as potentially trying to restore it if you want to pursue that, I defer that to someone with more experience.
I found this thing that works. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5ZQK9BZ/ It's not the most ideal solution, but it's cheaper than a whole new sound receiver. I put it in copy mode. Output 1 goes to the tv output 2 is set to 1080p and sent to the sound receiver. After that, I was able to use all the HDMI 2.1 features and the sound was in sync.
If you can wait for Black Friday, as that is when TV's will drop to their lowest.
I got my 65" X950G from Costco.ca with the 5 year warranty in late 2019. I am fortunate that mine support 4k/60 and 1080p/120, but no VRR or ALLM.
I think you best bet would be a X90K, which is $2200 right now, plus tax and any extended warranty. Note that while it does a FALD (full array local diming) panel it will still show noticeable blooming in a dark room. If you intend to use in a dark room then I recommend installing bias lighting as this helps a lot in my case.
I bought this for my TV.
Personally I am saving up for an OLED TV.
Depends. Reduces appearance of blooming in black bars but I wouldn't say it 'improves' picture quality. It's kind of like a magician using misdirection. Your eyes don't notice the minor blooming in the black areas at the edge of the screen because of the brighter light behind it. Basic optical illusion but it is effective. Important part is using a bias light at the correct 6500K temp and getting the brightness level set properly. Once that's done its set it and forget it.
MediaLight is generally what I would recommend for people but I'm just using a budget Govee LED strip and it works pretty well in my opinion.
I have this one on ALL 5 Tv's and used it on all my previous ones too ! There isn't a hardware one, the peel & stick to the tv ones work best for either stand or wall mounted !
This one also lets you choose the color & change it as needed, along with the brightness of the lighting ! Plus it's NOT expensive, just make suree to get the correct one for your sixe of TV ! Cheers & Luck !
Could use something like this if it becomes a problem
I generally recommend Mullvad VPN, though specifically for TV use Nord may be a bit better since the Mullvad Google TV app is beta and not the nicest to use.
I would warn you may not get the experience you're looking for; many streaming services are very proactive at blocking VPN exit points and you can often spend a long while trying to figure out what endpoints, if any, aren't blocked on whatever specific service you're looking for, and when you do find one that's not blocked, it might not even be in the country or region you're looking for. Additionally, some apps will detect a running VPN connection on the TV itself and refuse to stream.
If you give it a go, I'd recommend only signing up for a month or whatever to see if it will actually work for you like you're expecting and don't commit to months/annual renewals until you know what you're getting.
been using ExpressVPN on my A80J with no issues at all. i tried subscribing to Nord a while back to use on a Fire TV but it didn't work. support told me it doesn't work on media boxes, so i got that shit refunded in a heartbeat. i don't know if that's still the case though.
You can try Button Remapper but lots of Sony's remote buttons have locked functionality and cannot be remapped. You can likely map the coloured buttons to launch the app of your choice though.
built in ethernet is only 10/100. Use the USB3 port and connect one of these:
on fiber, I'll get 940/940 with this and everything loads up faster. the Home Screen, streaming tv, everything just works better with it.
Why not look at replacing the OEM stand with a universal one. I use something virtually identical to this for my X950G. I prefer it to the original stand because the TV doesn't lean back like it does with the regular stand. Also fits on pretty much any entertainment unit no problem.
You can’t. Only way is to unplug the cable. Best option is to get a DAC that connects to the optical connection and provides a 3.5mm output.
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/
It cannot be turned off. The best you can do is make it so that its powered all the time. Otherwise it will flicker on and off when you turn the TV off.
I would suggest connecting the bias lighting to a smartplug and using the voice assistant to turn it on and off. This is what I do and it works perfectly. A simple 'Hey Google, turn on (or off) backlight' and you're good to go.
I got this for my 65”. Highly recommend it as its fully articulating and can be pulled away or put flat against the wall.
This Tecknet USB3 hub works great with my A80J for networking, and I also have a USB3 SSD and Logitech unifying receiver plugged into it. Everything's powered from the TV's USB3 port.
As a work around for the TV you can use any USB Ethernet adapter with a Realtek RTL8153 chipset (TP-Link UE300 is a popular choice). Just disable Wi-Fi and plug the adapter into the USB 3.0 port.
You should open warranty claims for any affected items that are still within your warranty period.
Im worried about the same thing. Was looking at these but I cannot make up my mind https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B07C2JBDBC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=eagle%2Bedgeless&qid=1655492835&sprefix=eagel%2Bedg%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-4&th=1
> TSR-7810
Your model doesn't seem to have the DD+ issue so its hard to say what the source of the issue is. Could be either device and without a third device to test again either its hard to point the finger. As a simple troubleshooting step I would replace your HDMI cable with a Premium Certified cable such as those from Monoprice (available here). Premium Certified cables are a must with 4K devices. Don't forget to enable Enhanced HDMI signal format on both devices.
Check the connection pins inside the Ethernet port and make sure none of them have been damaged. If even one is bent it could cause a connection issue.
You could also try a USB to Ethernet adapter with a Realtek RTL8153 chipset if you happen to have one laying around. If not the TP-Link UE300 is a cheap option. Just disable Wi-Fi and plug the adapter into the USB 3.0 port.
The SoC in the X900F is slow. You can try a factory data reset on the TV and it might speed things up some, especially if you haven't done one in a while. That said you'll likely be happier with an external device such as your Roku, a Chromecast with Google TV or Fire TV Stick 4K Max.
Powerline is awful. They oversell the performance. You'd be better off with the native Wi-Fi, a wireless client bridge or MoCA adapters. MoCA will give you the best, most consistent performance if you've got a coax jack near the TV and another near your router.
Then its likely an 802.11ac compatibility issue and there isn't much you can do with your current hardware. Cheapest wireless option would be a wireless client bridge to your onboard Ethernet.
If you don't want to tape it you could use an old toslink cable - and then either hide the end or cover the end.
Dust caps are also available - https://www.amazon.de/-/en/DELOCK-Cover-Toslink-Socket-Handle-black/dp/B0743K8DS9
...but yeah, seems a bit rubbish you can't turn off the toslink port. They give out enough light to be noticeable in dark rooms.
In case you need screws here is an example set, of which you will throw away 90% but at this price, not to worry (but don't actually throw them away, lol). https://www.amazon.com/WALI-Universal-Mounting-Hardware-Screws/dp/B073WKR1QR/ref=sr_1_3?crid=19A8D4OBJT85A&keywords=vesa%2Bscrews&qid=1657592724&s=electronics&sprefix=vesa%2Bscrew%2Celectronics%2C150&sr=1-3&th=1
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Just select some screw lengths, hand-thread them into the tv until one bottoms out with gentle hand-turning with about 1 to 2mm still left in the turn, and that is your correct screw length.
On the TV under settings > network and internet > Remote start make sure that is set to "on (powered on by apps)”
I use this with my Xperia 1 phone, works great
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.joetech.tvremote
Mine usually reboots when I turn it on. It's not the end of the world. It's done it maybe 3 times while we were watching content on the AppleTV. I was also considering the x90j 65" at costco when it dropped to $1k but when I checked Amazon reviews, people were complaining about it rebooting randomly like the 900e. x90j on Amazon
With its long, flat legs, the A80J is amenable to an easy fix. Besides wanting to tilt my 55A80J forward to overcome the innate backwards tilt, I also need to slide it forward a couple feet when I'm actually watching it due to peculiarities of my setup. I normally use felt stickons like you might use on chair leg bottoms, but for the A80J, I used these Super Sliders:
https://www.amazon.com/SuperSliders-4705195N-Reusable-Furniture-Hardwood/dp/B01ACEKKT4
I cut 2" long strips for the fronts and backs of the legs, using one for the fronts and two stacked for the backs to get the forward tilt. The front ones are the same width as the legs and the rear ones just slightly wider, since I'm stacking them. They're flush with the ends of the legs. I used a black Sharpie to color the beige fuzzy part, so they appear totally black, and you have to look for them to notice them against my black desk. This hack has been perfectly stable even under the stress of sliding the TV back and forth on my desk, which BTW, is very easy to do. I didn't even bother using double-sided tape to stick them on; the weight of the TV ensures they don't shift in use.
My only caveat is that I have the 55" A80J, which is of course lighter than the larger models. I can't say for sure the larger models won't crush the Super Sliders, but it wouldn't cost much to try.
I would think this is something that is doable..
A small DAC would be my first thought though, & any subwoofer of your choice..
Something like THIS FiiO D3
If you’re running Android TV 10 you could try a USB Ethernet adapter with the Realtek RTL8153 chipset. The TP-Link EU300 is a popular choice. Just plug it into your USB 3.0 port and turn off the WiFi.
>I have connected shield through Lan cable to my Sony X950H
You connected your Shield TV to the lan port on your X950H? Don't do that. Get an Ethernet switch, its less than $20 for a 5-port gigabit switch.
>when i turn off shield then TV wifi speed suddenly works fine , what might be the cause and solution ?
Turn off the Shield TV.
Something like the following should work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/BLUE-STONE-Bracket-Universal-400x400mm/dp/B087WT2CVN
Lots of options for mounting holes on the brackets and the bottom ones are slots so that they don't have to line up perfectly. The brackets have infinite adjustability left to right since they just slide on the rail. Works for up to 400x400mm and up to a 55" TV.
I've got this one for my x90j and love it:
I'd just grab the Amazon Basics ones or pick up a pack from your local Home Depot or other hardware store.
there's a cleaner spray/cloth I got off amazon a while back that works perfectly on my a80j, lg c9 and MacBook screen.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074512LY1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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this got fingerprint smudges iff my a80j screen from when the installers put their greasy ass prints on it