What are /r/frontierfios' favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Many ISPs prioritize Speedtest.net servers. While the results do show maximum speed, if you want realistic results there are a few other options that are also good to use.

• https://fast.com - run by Netflix and uses the same servers that stream their videos. If the ISP is throttling Netflix, the results will show it.
• https://speed.cloudflare.com - Run by Cloudflare, it comes from their own edge servers. It’s also really detailed with stats.

Apartment buildings are notorious for Wi-Fi interference because there are sooo many networks trying to co-exist on the same frequency bands. That said:

1. Try temporarily running an ethernet cable from your game console or computer and hook it directly into the Frontier ONT (the modem-like device in your closet.. this is not the same thing as the router). Do you still get packet loss then?

2. You mentioned coaxial. There should be zero coaxial involved in a Fiber setup. If you're using Frontier's router, they might be somehow using the coaxial port as part of a MoCA setup?

3. Download a free tool called PingPlotter and do a traceroute to your game server. The tool will tell you where the packet loss is occurring between you and the game server.

4. Over on dslreports.com, there is a thread specific to Tampa area issues and ping. Can you tell us the model number of your ONT? Is it a GPON model # FOG421? If so, that's the slower type of hardware that may be contributing to your issue. Recommend calling Frontier again and asking for an XGS-PON ONT model # FOX222 (not sure if they offer it in the Tampa area, though).

Sounds like something's up to be sure!

The biggest concern here is the wired speed.

It probably won't hurt to hard reset the router. Unscrew the coax connection from the back (and/or the Ethernet cable from the white/beige uplink port) and press and hold the reset button in with a pen for 30 seconds and let go.

Test again. If its still too slow, bypass the router if you're connected to the ONT via ethernet (that beige port from earlier) if not you'll want to call in and probably do a manual ONT reboot.

You can do this yourself by removing the power from the ONT, removing the battery, letting it sit for a minute, plugging it back into power, and then finally the battery.

If that still doesn't work of course a technican probably needs to come out. Make sure to schedule for a time that works for you. It may take a day or two extra but you'll be home. Be sure to give them your cellphone number and email address so that you can be reached more easily.

1-888-620-3663.

For wifi you really should choose channel 1, 6, or 11.

You can download a free app on android called wifi analyser:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

Pick the least crowded channel and you're good.

If that still doesn't work, the google onhub is awesome.

https://on.google.com/hub/

You can find them cheaper online, but if you get it from Frontier, in addition to the 2 year factory warranty, you can split the cost over 3 months and you get lifetime support.

I have the same setup. The cable from the ONT is ethernet, so to use the SFP+ port 10 on the UDMP and get over one gig speeds you need a converter from RJ45 to SFP+, and you should get one that supports 2.5G and 5G speeds in addition to 1G and 10G (note not all do).

I used this one from Amazon, but I only just installed it Friday afternoon so I can’t vouch for it’s longevity or being trouble-free (reading some reviews on competitor units, they work at first and then fail connection intermittently):

FLYPROFiber 10GBase-T SFP+ to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KW4WTW9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I do have another setup at my office that’s been up and running for a few months, but I’m traveling and don’t have the specs on that converter, can check on Monday if you’re interested. You can Google reviews to confirm units that have worked for other Frontier FiOS and UDMP setups.

You would want a UPS for the ONT as well if it's not in the same spot as the router.

I've never had issues with APC products. You could probably get away with this one if you just use your router and/or ONT on it, but it would only last a couple of hours at most.

Higher end models have longer battery life.

https://www.amazon.com/PacSatSales-Single-SIMPLEX-Fiber-Optic/dp/B01GIV0PIQ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=26BT8076EVUVW&keywords=fios%2Bcable&qid=1664563451&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjEyIiwicXNhIjoiMy4zOCIsInFzcCI6IjIuOTcifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=fios%2Bca%2Caps%...

It’s not that hard to google search and find equipment that does those speeds.

2.5 Gig NI

2.5 Gig switch

That looks like the previous version of their SFP adapter. That adapter is only capable of connecting at 1G or 10G, which you would think would be fine since the Frontier ONTs will connect at 10G. But I have heard reports from others where it seemed fine on download but would tank their upload.

The new one has the part number UACC-CM-RJ45-MG, and it can connect at 1/2.5/5/10G. But, again, I don't know of anyone who has used it.

The other adapter I have seen people people have success with is the 10GTek 10GBase-T SFP adapter.

It'll be 10 gig ethernet over copper from the ONT to the UDM-Pro. I've got a 10Gig RJ-45 SFP+ module that it connects to my UDM-Pro. The connection is negotiated at 10gbps.

OK, so I tried to change DNS servers, but it didn't change anything. I tried ProtonVPN and was able to get 83 ping on California servers again, which is an improvemnet from what I was at. I guess this proves it has to be a problem with the servers frontier is using.

Thx for the tips

>When you say switches, do you mean electrical outlets?

No, like:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-26-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Managed/dp/B07P8BHZM9/ref=sr_1_5?crid=28OHZGP9PCE3J&keywords=1g+switch&qid=1653845796&sprefix=1g+switch%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-5

That HD antenna on the MOCA coax can cause problems.

That is a Motorola ont. It is GPON, it supports 1 gig. Did they send you the arris nvg router? Did it also come with a little square moca adapter? That router does not receive moca in, only sends it out. You do not have an ethernet connected, so you are on moca. You should have received one of these as well. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Arris-MEB1100-ETHERNET-Bridge-Frontier/dp/B07PWPKG6Z&ved=2ahUKEwiN7qK93P73AhU8TDABHckYDyMQFnoECAYQAQ&usg=AOvVaw39LCtIAlh9-c5MhcVhtHfZ

You could try setting up Ethernet through your power lines. If you have a house with decent wiring you could see a benefit there.

Something like this.

u/wentzelg Yeah, that makes sense. I ordered the one you listed from Amazon, it will be here Saturday.

I also ordered this, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084L4JL9K/ to hook up to the PC.

So to confirm, Dream Machine Pro with the sfp+ module and a Plugable 2.5G USB C will allow me to hook up one PC? Thanks

I have the solution set at this point. This is what I used:

10GBase-T SFP+ Transceiver, 10G T, 10G Copper, RJ-45 SFP+ CAT.6a, up to 30 meters, Compatible with Cisco SFP-10G-T-S, Ubiquiti UniFi UF-RJ45-10G, Fortinet, Netgear, D-Link, Supermicro and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFBFL16/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_ZXDVSS5MW83J68GVJEMY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

So from ONT into the above adapter direct into SFP WAN on the UDM Pro. I get 2.3 up/down. Maybe not in the portal but REAL LIFE speeds.

From there I went into an Enterprise POE 8 switch for a full 2.5GB LAN network and into a RAXE500 Netgear router that has multigig WAN set as an AP.

I am getting full 2.5GB link, 2.3GB speed up/down wired on all clients (even using a 2.5GB Ethernet to USB dongle.

This is a 100% stable setup and the speed is amazing. I am getting 950 speed WIRELESS!!!

Frontier is serving ABOVE stated speeds (2300/2300). I got mine installed last week. For the life of me I can't get the UDMP to actually pull traffic. Got an IP, everything looks connected but no traffic.

For the record I tried 2 adapters:

UBIQUITI RJ45 10GBPS SFP+ Trans... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HB5YKWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And

10GBase-T SFP+ Transceiver, 10G... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFBFL16?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Both seem to give an IP but I can't get traffic to start moving (Brand new UDMP). Both had less than stellar upload.

FWIW as an additional data point for you, I've had success getting my FOX222's Ethernet port to sync at 10Gbps. I'm connecting the FOX222 via a 2-meter Cat6a cable (from Blue Jeans Cable) to the WAN2 SFP+ port on my UDMPro, which I've got populated with a 10GTek 10GBASE-T transceiver. No issues.

It sounds like you might indeed be running into a cabling issue.

Forward the port in the game's settings in the NVG468MQ and use a tool like https://canyouseeme.org to see if the port is forwarded properly. If the web can't see the port, then check your Windows firewall.

https://foundryvtt.com/article/port-forwarding/

I would just look at https://pi-hole.net/ -- during the guided setup when it asks you to chose a DNS server there's an option to enter your own -- select that option. I already had a linux server on my network for other reasons -- if you don't you can pick up a raspberry pi relatively cheap (a pi-zero will do the job fine) and follow the directions on the raspberry pi foundation site to install raspbian.

Do you want me to go out to the garage again and take a video? Why is it so weird that I bought a CAT7? Do you want a copy of the receipt?

The model number of our ONT will also prove that it does take GB: Alcatel-Lucent I-211M-L

Here’s the link to the CAT7 cable that I bought, but if you need a receipt copy I can supply that too. Seriously, who the hell would lie about if they have a CAT7 or not?

I also double checked and CAT7 was released to the public in 2010, so it definitely was available years ago.

Just saw this https://www.speedtest.net/insights/blog/introducing-speedtest-cli/ might try to leverage this for more of a standardized testing and output, something that maybe Frontier will listen to more closely since it's the same investiture they use.

I wonder if we set a max egress speed on a device on our network and then try to run the speed tests. Like an RPi.

It is a standard 12V 7.2AHr SLA battery. You can find one here

If I remember correctly (before I ripped the equipment out and left it for them to pick up) the UPS can be bypassed. Follow the cords.

I ordered this along with the eero pro 6

current set up is ONT -> eero pro -> network switch -> my pc and it works great

As long as you’re using a service that meets your expectations for privacy/filtering, there’s no particular advantage to one over another except reliability and speed.

There’s a great service from Steve Gibson’s GRC website that will permit you to benchmark various DNS servers and make sure you’re using a fast one. https://www.grc.com/dns/benchmark.htm

I pay for 200/200 but only seem to get 100/100 right now.

https://www.speedtest.net/result/8186284123

​

I would normally call in to tech support with these types of results, but I am at work now and ran the test via Remote Desktop connection. I am getting sick of frontier especially after I find out they want to charge me modem fee every month after I sent back the modem to them and using my own router now. They were the best service you could get when it was Verizon Fios, now they are junk.

I would highly recommend two things:

1. A long Ethernet cable to your PC if you can run one

2. Not using Frontier's WiFi router. Since you live in an apartment I would consider getting one that would be good for densely populated areas.

When I lived in an apartment I also had Frontier 500/500. This is the router I used and it worked great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JQROZZS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2WEQW6E99SED8PCCVS89

The router test is just temporary to help determine if location-in-your-apartment makes any difference or not.

As others have said, the router that Frontier provides kinda stinks BUT it shouldn't be atrocious with lots of packet loss.

In my opinion, you should consider getting these peel-and-stick wire molds. You can neatly run wires without damaging any walls.. My wife and I literally ran some wire molding last night to nicely conceal speaker wire in our living room. Amazon, Home Depot, etc. all sell them.

https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Wiremold-Raceways-Management-Channels/dp/B0015EDVVU?th=1

Not sure if the Netgear is still returnable, but one thing you might consider if Wifi is your main/only issue is instead of getting another router and dealing with that, is to just get an access point. An access point is basically the "wifi" part of a router. If you went with the access point, you wouldn't end up with two routers or trying to put the Frontier box in bridge mode and you wouldn't have to worry with either getting a ethernet cable run or any kind of Coax converter.

For most people, something like one of these - https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/

is a great start or if you really want to go all out, something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Deco-Whole-Home-System/dp/B06WVCB862/

Basically you would connect the access point (or main access point for the mesh system) to the Frontier router with an ethernet cable, configure the wifi on it, join your laptop/devices to the new wifi and then log into the Frontier box and turn off the wifi on it.

It's the TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A7), that Amazon has had on sale like forever.
If I were to buy now, I'd buy the TP-Link AC1900 Smart WiFi Router (Archer A9) - High Speed MU-MIMO Wireless Router, for a few bucks more.
I have fiber optic with CAT 6 from the ONT; so I have no experience with Coax to Ethernet Adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07NF3K74H?ref=deals\_deals\_deals-grid\_slot-15\_bc5f\_dt\_dcell\_tlt\_11\_1ec22e5a&th=1

Thanks! I also called frontier and they told me there would be issues with switching from coax to Ethernet (whatever that means). So I’m better off purchasing a moca adapter. Could you recommend one? Would this one below be okay?

goCoax MoCA 2.5 Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax(Single Pack). MoCA 2.5. 1x GbE Port. Provide 2.5Gbps Bandwidth with existing coaxial Cables. Best Companion for Home mesh Wi-Fi, White(WF-803M) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XYDG7WN/

They most certainly do.

trueCABLE Cat6 Direct Burial, Shielded FTP, 500ft, Waterproof, Outdoor Rated CMX, Black, 23AWG Solid Bare Copper, 550MHz, ETL Listed, Bulk Ethernet Cable https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JAVN1C8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E24FPVB1QK3X40ASCR2E

However, I’d it’s just going through a wall to the Frontier exterior (wet side) box, you do not need any additional rating.

Plenum grade is more than enough for anything you aren’t burying or will be run in conduit, even if it’s run to an outbuilding.

Do you have a MoCA adapter in your setup? Then no.

You could buy this adapter and plug the end of the coax going into the router into one of those and then plug an ethernet cable from the second adapter into your Google WiFi.

It's a bit complex, but this is one way you could bypass Frontier's router.

The big white thing on the wall usually in the garage. So the answer is, if you only have fios for internet you can use your own router directly off that, just plug in the ethernet cable to the router. If you have fios for TV as well, then I believe you need their modem for something, but it doesn't apply to me so I'm not 100% sure.

I HIGHLY recommend this router. Is extremely fast with amazing coverage, and wifi 6 capable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L56SN8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SHFCFAXQYHFSN6KMN4R9

I'm using it with fios 500/500 and I never had faster connection anywhere.

The WAN is likely MoCA 1.1 in MoCA band C4 (1000MHz). The MoCA LAN is MoCA 2.0 on MoCA D1 (1150MHz). Replacing the G1100 with a MoCA adapter would work if you had an MEB1100 https://www.amazon.com/Arris-MEB1100-ETHERNET-Bridge-Frontier/dp/B07PWPKG6Z

It uses USB power. Other than that, bridge mode the G1100.

We have a NordVPN gateway running 24/7. During the outage, had many problems connecting without it. Zero problems when it connected through the VPN gateway. No idea why. Apparently, Frontier only has problems with their local offramp.

I had checked with Frontier over a year ago requesting info describing their backup situation. Their central office switches have diesel generators.... so voice likely will never go down. At least our landline didn't. Not so sure about their internet am learning much from the accounts posted here.

We use UPS's to "catch the power drops" our real backup is a tiny propane generator. It was giving us roughly 60hr runtimes per propane tank during the outage. Just plugged the UPSes into the generator. No interruptions.

Frontier wasn't the only telco carrier who failed us. Tmobile cellsites were yoyoing on and off. AT&T seemed solid...likely those Firstnet generators saved the day.

We routinely use AT&T and Tmobile simultaneously on all phones via channel bonding. Knowing what I know now - will NEVER operate a native Tmobile phone. Only AT&T. Tmobile is good for filling in dead spots but it's not a reliable provider.

No stress. I am also trying to figure out why my VPN is blocking all my internet suddenly. It wasn't doing this before the storm came through. I have been using PIA VPN for many years but it changed I guess. I just tried NordVPN and it's doing the same thing. I know there have been issues with Firefox but now also with every browser.

Likely has nothing to do with Xbox Live.

There's something very wrong with Frontier in Dallas since the storms. Some of the other threads reference outages for their core gateways in the DFW area as the cause, but Frontier is not talking. What we're all seeing is that ~50% of network calls just flat out fail to make it out of Frontier's network. This has been going on since late Wednesday with no ETA announced from Frontier that I'm aware of.

You can navigate around this issue using a VPN like Nord or Private Internet Access, but you may not be able to set that up for your Xbox, PS5, Roku or other IOT devices unless your router itself supports OpenVPN style connections.

> I had this lying around from another project at the house. It's an output selectable DC power supply, with multiple different "tips", one of which is a wire terminal. > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7RS0NG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had this lying around from another project at the house. It's an output selectable DC power supply, with multiple different "tips", one of which is a wire terminal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7RS0NG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're all individually ran coax cables leading up to the attic, no splitters between them. I was gonna get this splitter to put in the attic.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GG9CMLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tyj-FbM58NGB7

lets take this for example, a 3 pack of google mesh routers. can i take one of these and place it in the room with my xbox, and hardwire an ethernet from the router to the xbox, or does the router's ethernet cable need to run directly to the ONT?

That device is fine. You could go with a 2x2 802.11ax device for a little future proofing. Something like this would be good. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-4-Stream-Router-Medium/dp/B07PCMG75T/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=802.11ax&qid=1609875219&sr=8-10&th=1 This device is a 2x2 setup. The 3x3 device you have is 802.11ac is good, but most devices aren't 3x3, (macbook pro is the most common 3x3 client out there). If you aren't using that, then you could go with a 2x2 device like the one I mentioned and still be fine, provided it provides enough coverage for you.

Hey @here-to-help-TX happy new year 🤗 I finally got my return package so I'm now looking for my new router. I was reading this article https://www.techlicious.com/tip/how-to-use-your-own-router-for-verizon-fios/ and saw "cheap" options such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QF74ZXB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_fl97FbBNB11Z5 since it's -+ 5 times less expensive that your options, what risk would I take using this? Ideally $200 max budget router would be a good option for me, but if that's going to affect my internet signal, I would spend more. I dont think I need to invest into a home mesh wifi as the signal is strong enough in all rooms so far. Thanks a lot!!

What's the different between the $60 one you posted earlier and this more expensive version? I tried reading the details but it's like reading french to me, lol. I tried to find range on both but didn't see any square footage specifically.

/u/dredbeast got it. Easiest way to light up every ethernet port in your house is to buy a cheap 8 port switch like this and then connect all the blue ethernet cables to it. Then connect the cheap switch to your router down below with another ethernet cable and you're good to go.

If you don't want to have get a switch and really just care about that one port, plug the blue cables directly into the router one by one until you can identify exactly which blue ethernet cable is the one that matters.

Yes, your splitters are the problem. The splitters are blocking the MoCA signal between your rooms. If the COAX is connected to the ONT for STB or internet, you'll want to add a bandpass filter at the ONT if Frontier didn't already do so: they typically do for COAX installs. The bandpass filter blocks your LAN traffic from leaking beyond your house. When buying splitters or anything MoCA-related make sure it supports the frequencies needed. I have one of these installed from the OTA antenna to all the rooms where I have COAX so I can use both OTA and MoCA. If you buy a 4-way splitter such as this one and don't use all 4 splits make sure to cap the unused ports to prevent unintended interference, dust, and moisture from being introduced into the system.

You can get a $20 Moca Adapter:

Actiontec Single Dual-Band Wireless Network Extender and Ethernet Over Coax Adapter (WCB3000N)

connect that to your 'coax' network and it will have an Ethernet port on it that will pull a DHCP Address from the Frontier Router. It probably won't give you gigabit speed, but you won't have to do wifi. You have to have a good coax signal... if you have 5 splitters reducing your signal that might be an issue.... AND the splitters you do have have to be Moca Frequency capable splitters.... but in theory will will work.

I use one of these in my network setup at my house.

You can use a - Actiontec Single Dual-Band Wireless Network Extender and Ethernet Over Coax Adapter (WCB3000N) - and replace / remove your Fios Moca router. I did and it works... TV, guide, VOD, etc. Now I am trying to get my $10 rental free removed.

- jack

The ONT isn't PoE compatible I'm using a splitter to remove the power before the ONT and drop it to 12V. Here's a link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGVPRBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easiest way to find your phone line besides climbing into the ceiling is to get a wire toner like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NKJVWXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WjgtFbD39H1N0

You plug the large part into the phone jack in your room and head to the closet and use the wand to find the tone in the closet. If the lines are daisy chained you should be able to hear the tone loud and clear why you stick the wand into any other phone jack on the way back to the closet. If they are daisy chained you will need to run a new line to the room or at least splice the

Running data on a cat 5 requires all 4 pairs in the line to be terminated on the jack, phone jacks usually only have 1 pair terminated so like Jack said you will need to reterminate the line on both sides.

It's a super simple process and you won't need to buy extra tools to do it as long as you grab a plate like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-Cat5e-Data-Insert-Outlet-White-R02-41640-00W/206598928

Which comes with a plastic punch tool, then you just need to strip the wire and follow the color code labled "T56B" on the data jack.

that's interesting. are you getting an ipv6 address reported from outside your network? like through ipv6 test sites, it should tell you you are not compatible with ipv6... If you're not seeing that then your traffic isn't being funneled through your VPN.

edit: as an example, i use Torguard VPN. they don't currently have access to ipv6, so when i connect to their VPN on mobile data, the previous link will tell me i do not have an ipv6 address. therefore, all data is being funneled through the VPN.

The company changed but the technology remains the same. The guide and VOD/PPV does require a downstream path from the router to obtain this information. In theory, any moca-enabled cable modem should work, but in practice this is likely not the case.

This is doubly true for the Quantum equipment. The TV signal is delivered over the internet and as a result the router is required to watch tv too.

If you had a device like a TiVo and a Frontier-provided cable card, the TiVo might be able to get the guide information from the internet without the router but I have no idea if this is 100% the case.

I do know that with the sole-exception of the generation 4 Fios G1100 router, and presumably anything using similar technology, there is no router rental fee. So unlike Verizon, if you are still being charged a router/modem rental fee and you don't have the aforementioned router, you can likely get it removed from your bill by calling customer service.

You do have the option of disabling the wifi in your router and plugging a 3rd party router into it. It would be a good idea to keep an Ethernet cable handy however as because Frontier or any ISP doesn't guarantee wireless speed, you have to be able to test connection speed connected directly to the Frontier router.

Frontier won't stop you from using a 3rd party modem/router but there is no support if you can't get it to work.

The exception being anything that you purchase from them directly such as the AirTies wireless mesh or the Google OnHub. Those are covered by a 30 day return policy, manufacturer warranty, and lifetime support by Frontier for as long as the device operates normally.

Theoretically this should just "work":

https://www.amazon.com/Verizon-FiOS-Quantum-Gateway-AC1750/dp/B00QRJ8YME/

It should even be possible to register it to Frontier's systems if you provide the serial number, model number, and mac address.