WiFi Analyser from Farproc on Android allows creating aliases for each access point (by MAC address). Very handy for what you describe.
The Omada user guide mentions that the software controller requires MongoDB version 3.0.15–3.6.18.
What distro are you running? I'm using Ubuntu 20.04 and it has 3.6.8 in its repos. You can also download older versions from https://www.mongodb.com/try/download/
Idk if they are V3 or not. Didn’t even know that was a thing, haha.
I get this for the 245: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NMZR3F1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YKVCPN8C99KBESXCXSKC
I see there is a V3 switch but it’s not available for me either.
For what it’s worth, I’ve got a 245 I bought back in April and it’s been rock solid. I have 2210MP switches though.
To my surprise, I just received the cable and got my sg3428 adopted after the reset. You just gotta be quick to press a key at boot (1 second is really not that much). The cable I ordered is that one https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QUZY4UG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.
It’s for backup only.
I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDXBT87/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_QE7S0F0AVDQDSR3RVB4D?psc=1
I specifically bought it so it didn’t stick out too far, you can barely tell it’s there. Backup requires Only a few MBs. So just buy the cheapest one available.
I keep a month worth of backups and 29.20GB free out of 29.24GB available. Backup files are about 5MB each.
I use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Circulation-Cantilever-Universal-PLRSTN14U/dp/B01HTG4WHY
It's not the exact one I use, cause I had one lying around, but this should work. I bolt my controller and router to it via the little screw slots on the bottoms. It looks pretty nice.
Not sure if launched an out of stock or not launched.
If you're trying to set up an OpenVPN server for an incoming VPN client, I have that working ok on my system. I used dynDNS to map my ISP dynamic IP to an internet address and modified the certificate exported by the er605 to point to that url instead of a fixed IP. Then I enabled respond to Wan pings on the er605 (wouldn't work without that). It works okay for me now from outside. Also make sure you're not behind a CGNAT from the ISP. I had to ask my ISP to turn off CGNAT on my line.
Haven't tried the outgoing VPN client yet, U do have a StrongVPN account. Might try that later but it's probably something I'd set up on a separate vlan AP, because I don't want/need it on the rest of my network.
It doesnt fully require it but I cant use the wifi on it due to a verizon limitation. I think I may go with one of these since it seems like it may work in client mode https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1Y1Z52R3R4HHS&keywords=client%2Bmode%2Brouter&sprefix=client%2Bmode%2Brouter%2Caps%2C65&sr=8-1&th=1
549 Canadian seems a bit more pricey considering its supposedly going to be sold at B&H for 349 USD https://www.reddit.com/r/TPLink\_Omada/comments/ylztq4/looks\_like\_preorders\_are\_open\_for\_er8411\_at\_bh/
I already had an old commercial switch (not Omada) and only really needed two POE port currently so I bought one of these 4 port injectors.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B085Z6BYNV?psc=1
It's messier, requiring more cabling, but gets the job done.
Best prices are on Amazon. TP-Link has a store on the site.
The option 1 link is only for the copper cable. You still need two SFP modules. These modules work on TP-link switches and interconnect with rg45 cables.
your setup is nice but you need to improve the cooling. as long as they stay on top of eachother they are cooking themselves.
buy some speaker feets and space them out:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Square-Adhesive-Rubber-Bumper/dp/B07WDDB7SD/
as long as they have 2-3 cm space between the airflow would improve. just move out the controller on the top and you will have the space. a 10" rack would have made justice but still you can do it cheap with spacers.
enjoy your equipement!
The article heavily tries to sell NordVPN.
Most of the comparisons in it are pretty pointless.
PLEASE don't base your decission on this.
OpenVPN is an Open Source VPN Software.
NordVPN is a VPN provider that offers Wireguard (they call it NordLynx) and OpenVPN.
OpenVPN is not insecure.
NordVPN themself offer an OpenVPN connection option.
​
The advertisement for VPN providers is getting pretty bonkers...
I used a right-angle patch cable for the installation of my EAP610. This let me hide the small hole for the cable behind the 610 without any strain on the cable. No problem with POE for feeding the 610 (draws little) considering the smaller gauge wire.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084D1L6T1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
The 610, 620 (old and new versions) and the 650 (I have all three) come with a DC power brick, but not a PoE injector. The 615 (wall) and the 653 do not come with any power supply at all. The 615 can ONLY use PoE. You can buy a TP-Link PoE injector on Amazon for Gigabit connections for about $US20.
Related, I just grabbed a Tenda PoE injector from amazon for about $17 to power an EAP670 and it's working well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PYKX3S?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Switches generally connect all the ports regardless of their purpose as "uplinks" or "downlinks." Any port can be either uplink or downlink; switches automatically figure out what's connected to each port.
The only kink I'd anticipate is SFP+ plug-ins often express compatibility only with certain brands of switches & routers, so if you have an SFP+ plug-in that you're migrating from one device to another, it might or might not be compatible with the SG3428X. The only SFP+ device that I've personally plugged into an SG3428X is this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P15DXVW/ - with the other end in another switch SG3210XHP-M2 - and it's working just fine linking the two switches together.
When I get around to it, I planned to put in the second SFP+ link between the two switches and figure out how to configure link aggregation.
eful at range , beyond walls etc.
You can use Omada APs in wireless mode so you don't have to run Ethernet, although wired backhaul is better. You could have one AP connected to your existing router using Ethernet and another connected wirelessly. See discussion here. Note that not all Omada APs support mesh mode. The nice think here is that you can start with one AP and then add another one later so you don't have to shell a lot of money out all at once.
If you have existing RG6 (Coax) cable in the walls you can also connect APs using MoCA but this will add around $100 to the cost.
I would like to have mesh and roaming, maybe i could use something like the TL-SM331T to connect the router to the switch and use the other SFP port to connect the 2 switches, and also move the NAS to the bigger switch that way i free up more PoE ports for future expansion, the only thing I lose is the link aggregation between the switches but I don't know if I really need it.
On another subject using something like the TL-SM331T module would introduce latency to the network? is it something I should worry about?
Thank you for the feedback! The primary reason I need it to be optical is the fiber link will be underground and running within a couple inches of power for approximately 50 feet. My understanding is that even shielded cat 6/6a wouldn't be ideal for this application. I am not too concerned about speed either. As long as speeds stay above 500 meg, life will be good.
I was thinking about this SFP module would be a reasonable module.
https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-10G-SR-Transceiver-10GBASE-SR-300-meter/dp/B00U8Q7946/
So to recap...
This transceiver with a strand of OS2 fiber will work to connect the two switch. Amazon... here I come.
> For wifi yes, but not for plugin devices
Ah, interesting. This could be handled via a cheap smart plug, lol. Any cheap unmagned switch could handle it, as long as the VLANs are assigned to it before it gets to it, if you are into that sort of thing.
I use Bonded 2.5 MOCA throughout my house where Ethernet is not practical. It supports full Gigabit wireline speeds with at most 1 to 2 ms of additional latency. They're great!
Couple of months ago we deployed a setup with a Powerline adapter to cover an area that was impossible to physically wire. We had consistent speeds of over 60Mbps which showed that the AP was properly connected to the client. Please do the following, to rule out the Powerline, can you download WiFiman (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.usurvey) and check the negotiated speed between the client and AP?
FYI, unless you have a PC w/ a serial port and a serial cable or can already use the RJ45 to serial console cable, you will need this or this to interrupt the boot process and reset a TL-SG3428, as there is an inherent delay with the onboard micro USB console port that doesn't allow you to interrupt the boot process successfully, thus forcing you to use ONLY the RJ45 console port for boot interrupt actions. I went around and around w/ TP-Link support to discover this limitation. I personally prefer the RJ45 to USB console cable I linked, it worked like a charm.
You can use POE+ powered switch to get more power budget
a couple consideration EAP225-Wall 100mbps only and no seamless roaming EAP235-wall 1gbps but no seamless roaming EAP615-wall will do both and POE passthrough with Wifi AX but more $$$
If you use the POE powered switch, you don't need to stick to the Wall unit, maybe a EAP225 regular or the newer EAP6XXX
I have been using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097YDC9BP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is cleaner look but more $ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z59SG17?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k0_1_9&amp&crid=2QJ8JF1UDV1LA&amp&sprefix=poe+texas
>Alternately, the EAP615-wall will power the Pi with passthrough
>
>https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP615-Wall-Business-Beamforming-Integrated/dp/B09KYK1S9R
That actually looks like a good option especially since it would be integrated with the Omada controller. This seems to be marketed towards "room" wifi rather than whole-floor wifi (i.e., I'm using this in my house, so I want to make sure the AP covers a similar range as my EAP245).
been using this month for about a month, support gigabit (which is a requirement for me)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097YDC9BP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Alternately, the EAP615-wall will power the Pi with passthrough
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP615-Wall-Business-Beamforming-Integrated/dp/B09KYK1S9R
The MP has a fan, so it will much louder than the P, keep that in mind in an apartment.
I would use opnsense 10 out 10 times over what omada offers in routers, having set one up and a pfsense user myself. You will quickly find the failures in omada routers coming from opnsense.
Since you have a proxmox server, I would spin up a vm for omada controller free of charge.
I do not have the wifi 6 APs but the eap225 and the two eap245s I have will stick to the wall using one of those 3M command strips. Also if you do put them on a table, https://www.amazon.com/Decolore-Display-Picture-Decorative-Artistic/dp/B08BZFLZBG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1K2BJKUKT7VQK&keywords=book+holder&qid=1657073372&sprefix=book+holde%2Caps%2C110&sr=8-4 these type of book holders can be nice to hold them up to get air around them.
Lastly, another option is to look at an in-wall for your office which has ethernet ports and just replaces your ethernet plate (can put old one back on when leave), might even work to just have two in walls instead of two APs, your apartment is not that big. A single eap245 covers a lot of my 2400sqft home.
I would recommend, if you have Android, installing WiFi Analyser and checking the current channel use in the vicinity of your access point. You want to avoid partial overlaps with other WiFi networks. Better to share a channel where APs and clients can back off than have a slightly overlapping channel interfering. That is why 1, 6 and 11 are the best as they don't overlap at all. 9 can get interference from 6 and 11. I don't know if the Omada channel utilisation caters for this at all. I suspect not.
Set it to ping 1.1.1.1 or 8.8.8.8 to see if the connection is up and it should work. I'd also look at getting something like a pfsense box with 2.5g connections because the er605 can't even handle the speeds of your cable modem.
Thank you! I bought mine on Amazon - but looks like the US Amazon site is sold out of the 620 v.3 at the lowest price from Amazon itself as the vendor, but they do have some other vendors with some in stock that are a bit higher in price. The 610 v.2, which is also small, is still in stock. I also found some on eBay (new, not used). Just make sure you specify the correct version in your seach.
Have you thought about using a different color cable like white that would match the AP? Leave the blue cable in the ceiling and use a Keystone and wallplate or coupler and a plate that would hide it like one with a rubber grommet, multimedia pass through or the one below.
Skywalker Signature Series Single Gang Bundled Cable Wall Plate, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N3KSI27/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_MQ4QPJJB92WQW6JS4NR8
The EAP610v2 launches next week in the US:
TP-Link EAP610 V2 | Omada WiFi 6 AX1800 Wireless Gigabit Ceiling Mount Access Point| Support Mesh, OFDMA, Seamless Roaming & MU-MIMO | SDN Integrated | Cloud Access & Omada App | PoE+ Powered | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XM74VQL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RQEQWSQST474G2RB291J
They're available on Amazon (note: I think this is a McCann Tech ad-support link, but unrelated to availability or price), as of April 18, apparently. Check it out! But the eap660 v1 seems sweet, though.
FYI for folks curious:
​
I just today pre-ordered a couple of slimline EAP610 (v2) units on Amazon for $99 ea (note, I think this is a McCann Tech based ad link, but it's unrelated to the price and availability)! The page notes they will be released April 25.
The EAP620 HD v3 amazon page has them available currently (note, I think this is a McCann Tech based ad link, but it's unrelated to the price and availability), apparently as of April 18, 2022. Woo!
This isn’t a direct answer about nordVPN but you may gain some insight from this setup. It routes all internet traffic through the remote openvpn server. In the video the auto login profile is used so no username or password is required.
I have tried using Mullvad VPN but it also doesn’t work. I’m guessing because of the way the ovpn configuration file is created and exported.
heh, I've got nearly the same.
Fios ont, ER650, OC200, four EAP-225v, ooma telo, and a NAS, along with a netgear 16 port POE .. all on a Cyberpower 1500vA ups .. it runs for about 3 hours.
This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W
It might be a bit over kill, as most of our power outages tend to last about 1.5 hours.
I purchased the 2 bundle of these QSFPTEK 2Pack 10GBASE-T SFP+ to... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08YJGL7FP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and used in an sg3428x they are warm to the touch but not hot. Worked straight away on the 3428x
The main reason I purchased the Protectli (OPNSense) box was to run it as an OpenVPN client. Because it has the AES-NI enabled processor it should be able to handle encrypting a large (hopefully near 1 Gbps) amount of data.
I want (almost) everything on my network to run through ExpressVPN. And I don't want to have to install their app on every device as it has issues with other local devices communication.
Secondly, I'm hoping that OPNSense as a firewall is going to be able to detect more types of problems than just the ER7206 by itself.
Right, so each VPN provider is different - I'm with Torguard and this will not work, check with your provider.
So from omada dashboard it's Settings > VPN > Create New VPN Policy > Client to Site VPN > VPN Type, VPN Client - OpenVPN. Problem is, there is no login information for you to use. So you cannot use most consumer purchased VPNs. You can try L2TP, which does give you login, however you need to know the remote subnets which few VPNs would publish.
The TL-SG2008 V3 is a good little switch. I have one and was it ran well while I was using it as my 'main' switch for a few months and it worked great. At this price, it's a steal!
I eventually upgraded to the TL-SG2210 because, as I rewired some of my ethernet cabling on my network to provide PoE feeds to my (4) EAPs and OC-200, I needed (5) PoE ports and the TL-SG2008 V3 only has four PoE ports. Normally, the SG-TL2210 is within $20-$30 so it wasn't much of an upgrade cost.
TP-Link TL-SG3428MP | 24 Port Gigabit L2+ Managed PoE Switch | 24 PoE+ Port @384W, 4 x SFP Slots | PoE Auto Recovery | Omada SDN Integrated| IPv6 | Static Routing | Limited Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0973TVGMR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_2Z7PKZMVQYQVC9VV4XKP
Thanks for checking! Hmmm... then I should get Omada switch instead. I wish there are cheaper options. SG2008 is the cheapest one I could find.
Assuming you have drywall walls, why not just install an old work 1 gang electrical box or low voltage box like these?
Cmple - Low Voltage Mounting Bracket 1 Gang Multipurpose Drywall Mounting Wall Plate Bracket – Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NP6DYPSNW99RYS8H9NXX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
TP-Link TL-SG3210XHP-M2 | Jetstream 8 Port Multi-Gigabit L2+ Managed PoE Switch | 8 PoE+ Port @240W, 2 x 10G SFP+ Slots | 2.5G Bandwidth | Omada SDN Integrated | IPv6 | Limited Lifetime Protection
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092VFS6K3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_5FP9EC26234378ATTKSQ
OpenVPN by itself can't keep up with security developments and the gap has only widened with time. Here's an article that although it focuses on NordVPN, can be read as a comparison to any other similar service backed up by a modern client.
Does the WR841N have a repeater mode? You'd normally find it under "operating mode" and can choose between router, access point or repeater.
Also, if you're familiar with OpenWrt, it's available for this device.
If you want to keep it omada compatible then look at
TP-Link TL-SG2008P https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J9ZQ7HC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_9NCG6HP188J0X0FDC68H
Has poe on 4 ports just in case you don't want to use the injector and still get ethernet pass through on the eap245.
Are the two EAP225’s hardwired and your using MESH to bridge the networks (I assume)?
Typically, the CPE product line is a better solution for this application:
CPE710 or 510:
TP-Link 5GHz AC867 Long Range Outdoor CPE for PtP and PtMP Transmission | Point to Point Wireless Bridge | 23dBi | Passive PoE Powered w/Free PoE Injector | Pharos Control (CPE710) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D71HC9L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E02CXMSVRTCR013YNY73
But you could also just try custom, higher gain antennas on you 225 outdoors, and / or different channels.
Also check your PoE power levels. Are you using a PoE switch (some have issues) or the included midspan?
My outdoors (different application) used to drop and re-adopt frequently (MESH connected to main EAP225/245 network) when they were too close to the uplink AP. When they were mounted on the side of the house they didn’t stay connected reliably. Moving them farther away (fence) actually improved the connection significantly.
I assume this is most likely due to the shape of the antenna radiation patterns.
I would suggest you use this for verifying the WiFi channel traffic (rather than guessing to pick channels). Also make sure your 2.4Ghz channels widths are set to 20...
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=abdelrahman.wifianalyzerpremium
It's good to figure out why the 2.4ghz is slower than it should be, but also consider this which will make your phones switch over to 5ghz automatically whenever you are in range (assuming your 2.4ghz and 5ghz ssid's are the same which is the way I do it) -
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tartar.strongestwifi
I'm "happy" to read everything is slower now, that makes malware less likely.
Still, this doesn't let me "go".
Is there maybe a lot of WiFi traffic which gets in the way? Some apps like
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer
Can help with finding a less busy spot in the spectrum..
Yes but they should be on different channels so they do not fight each other.
app on your phone to ensure your phone sticks at all times to the stronger signal, favoring 5ghz.
to determine which channel to assign to each eap225 signal so they do not use the same channel and step on each other.
You can grab an Omada integrated switch for $49 at this Amazon link TP-Link TL-SG2008 V3 | 8 Port Gigabit Smart Managed switch | Omada SDN Integrated | IPv6 | Static Routing | L2/L3/L4 QoS, IGMP & Link Aggregation | Limited Lifetime Protection | Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TR19PTD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6ZSGGHGQYJWCN1G1JS5C
Oh nice. Btw, i researched a few cameras systems and it seems the "poe switch" comes with the NVR systems, so it seems i only have to run ethernet to the NVR, i might be wrong tho, take this one for example: https://www.amazon.com/seguridad-8-Channel-grabaci%C3%B3n-vigilancia-RLK8-410B6-5MP/dp/B07VPMX7Q5/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=poe+camera+reolink&qid=1628398483&sprefix=poe+cameras+reo&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jc...
Just to follow up in case someone else stumble onto this one, I bought this usb to serila cable (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00QUZY4UG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and even using putty, eveything work perfectly. It catch keyboard input no problem so I was able to reset the swith.