What are /r/homesecurity's favorite Products & Services?

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I think you should tell the neighbors now, and not just the one you saw him trying to get into because it's probably not just your apartment and theirs. There's no reason to wait for him to come back before you tell them. They should know there's someone coming around trying get into people's apartments.

Also, report it to the complex and ask them what they intend to do about it to keep you safe. If the doors/handles don't lock properly, tell them they need to be replaced, at their expense, with ones that are actually secure. Ask them if you can install a deadbolt that their maintenance people will put in if you supply the lock.

For now, you can get a door bar like this one that props under your door handle to stop the door from being opened.

If you have an unused phone lying around, there are apps that can turn it into a motion activated camera. If you have a front window, put it there with the camera facing out. If you're desperate, you can even tape it to your peephole. It should work. You can use painter's tape to keep it on the door and it won't leave residue or damage it.

You can also point an external webcam out the window to catch the guy. There are camera control apps that have motion activation.

Assuming a solid core door. If a hollow core door, first replace with a good metal exterior solid core door and then see below.

1. Remove the screws which hold your hinges into the frame. They are most likely 1 1/4" long. Replace them with 3" deck screws. Also replace the screws that hold the hinges to the door with 2 1/2" deck screws.

2. install a deadbolt if you don't already have one. Best is if it's offset from the lock set by 12". If you have the tools and skills install another deadbolt. If the first is 12" above the lock put the second one 12" below. Use GOOD locks! There is a difference.

3. Install a deadbolt and lock reinforcent plates according to the directions. Here's an example : https://www.amazon.com/Reinforcement-Deadbolt-Reinforcer-Security-Strengthen/dp/B005KP0YGU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=5JNSTA45S9KH&keywords=deadbolt+reinforcement+plate&qid=1572125361&sprefix=deadbolt+re%2Caps%2C240&sr=8-1-spons&psc=...

4. Same for the door lock: https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-9551-Reinforcer-Stainless/dp/B000OFTIL8/ref=pd_sim_b2b_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000OFTIL8&pd_rd_r=d5b3c5aa-c731-4c87-9b90-b887a522107f&pd_rd_w=bsuv6&pd_rd_wg=gwiAR&pf_rd_p=a07701e4-f5...

5. as the other poster alluded to the key is to make your house entry less attractive than others. Cameras and lights do wonders. Remove anything that can mask an intruders actions such as shrubs. Also remove items that can be thrown through windows.

maybe. maybe not.

if you have a thermal camera, it will easily spot any hidden cameras. this is what we use. worth every penny

https://www.amazon.com/Seek-Thermal-Compact-All-Purpose-MicroUSB/dp/B00NYWAHHM/

Do you have exterior garage/porch sconce lights you can replace?

After a drug dealer was ambushed in the shadows in front of my home resulting in a 3 person shootout, I bought and installed these lights on the front of my home. They are brighter than the two nearest streetlights.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DRKXLJ/

Check out some of the photos in the reviews. These suckers are bright!

Don't open the window all the way. Put a fan in, cut a wood dowel or pvc pipe (which is cheap but strong) in the window track to prevent it from being opened further. Make it a different color so someone looking from the outside can see the stick is there. The fan has a very steady noise, if someone tries to remove it, that likely will create enough noise for the dog to hear. Put the fan on a timer if it gets too cold running all night.

Also, buy an "burger alarm in use" sticker, even if you don't have an alarm, and put it in that window.

If you can put a motion detection floodlight out by the window, that could help too.

You could put up bars outside the window. More expensive, but more secure.

Just throwing out some ideas...

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Reddit wouldn't let me post a picture, so here is a link to the kind of fan I was thinking of. This is just the style, I don't own this fan and there are many others like it that might be better.

License plates are often stolen for use in a crime. To prevent this, buy security license plate screws. They’re <$10 on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08HCV97BP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_KoTbGbD7F2596

It’s not yet available, but Amazon/Ring have a car security product coming out: https://ring.com/announcements

Before considering security cameras, I'd suggest echoing what ImaginaryCheetah advised: Invest in lighting up the place with both landscape and motion detection lights that are placed out of arms reach.

The rest of this depends on how much money you want to spend and how much nerdy work you want to put into the video surveillance system.

For those who want appliance-like operation and don't mind monthly fees, the Ring Floodlight cameras are a good bet. Again, to be effective, you will need to mount them above arms reach - like at the peak of a gable or above a garage door.

If you are considering going with a full IP camera system, have a bigger budget and are techy enough to pull wire and do some networking... then that's a whole different conversation and one that leads to a rabbit hole of many pathways.

That's a power line adapter. It lets you send an Ethernet signal over electric wires, so you don't have to run a network cable. You can use this to connect an IP camera to your router. Once that's done, you should be able to see that IP camera on a computer connected to your network. From there, you should be able to set up the camera to be viewable from a computer or mobile device, and to be recorded on a computer, NAS, or NVR.

In this case, you should buy something locally. In my area, I'd probably look for an all in one kit from Walmart. It might cost up to $500 (maybe a lot less), but it should come with multiple cameras and a recording drive (DVR). The best part about buying locally for this is, you can return it if it's not exactly what you want. I'd look into something like this.

There is definitely concern with both software and firmware that are supplied through lesser known sources when regarding security concerns. From a cybersecurity perspective, it isn't at all the footage of someone's backyard that is concerning. It is the ability to utilize the camera for other means once it is brought online. Modern IP cameras are essentially tiny linux boxes that can participate in a variety of cyber attacks. The government is concerned with the camera feeds, but I can all but guarantee they are more concerned with the potential access to restricted networks due to compromised cameras.

I think the important key here is not necessarily what cameras are used but how they are deployed. I think isolation is far more important than brand of hardware. The only reason for IOT devices to have access to the entire internet is for convenience. The question then becomes what level of convenience are you willing to sacrifice for privacy and security?

My recommendation is to get a managed switch that is capable of supporting VLANs as well as a firewall device placed in your network between your ISP's service line and your managed switch. Set up and isolate a VLAN for use by the cameras. This VLAN should have no access to the internet and really should only have access to whatever you are using for a controller of the cameras, such as something running openHAB. Under no circumstances which are concerned with security should internet access be given to that isolated VLAN. This configuration is not for everyone as you do lose the ability to use any phone or web apps that are built specifically for your devices, but you do gain the security of knowing that the devices are on an isolated network that can't "phone home".

Is your neighborhood on Nextdoor?

https://nextdoor.com/

They may be knowledgeable about what's happening, who's responsible, and what to do. If there's a Homeowner's Association, you might ask them if they're aware of property damage to common areas.

If you can put up a sign that advises of 24/7 video recording where it can be seen on the fence, that might help.

REOLINK 4MP 8CH PoE Video Surveillance System, 4 x Wired Outdoor 1440P PoE IP Cameras, 8MP 5MP 4MP Supported 8 Channel NVR Security System w/ 2TB HDD for 7/24 Recording, RLK8-420D4 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B077SYSQFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1P6QES2W13BX2X143V0P?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Has a 20% off

Coming in late to this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUX8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_AW3W6QSTQWHEZPF5959S?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Master lock 265D is a brace to prevent doors from being forced open.

Your 10+ second jiggles you are hearing is him trying to bump the lock bit he is not good at it. Almost ALL consumer locks can be opened very easily with the right keys known as bumping or jiggling. Consumer locks keep honest people out only. I can open any 66 style key way (defiant, kwickset, etc) in less then 5 seconds. Have demo'ed this a 100 times and people are shocked everytime.

Also, consider wifi simple cameras. Wyze has WiFi cameras that you can add stick on door sensors and motion sensors to with remote notification. VERY cheap.

I use a wire toner for things like that. It allows you to ID each line without guessing. I have a fluke that I used at work however you don’t need to make that kind of investment. It simply puts a signal on the line that you look for with a probe. If you need one now, Grainger or electrical supply places carry them. Or Amazon, there are many options. I also have a separate cat 5 tester but they have combo options as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADHQCIO/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_fm\_apa\_glt\_i\_K0HR2JRPBFH484T3P17V?\_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Not a smart device, but you could point this at your gate and it will alert you when someone walks past it (enters your yard): https://www.amazon.com/Hosmart-Rechargable-Driveway-Wireless-Weatherproof/dp/B07PRGGRGW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=hosmart&amp;qid=1623197805&amp;sr=8-3

short answer : no.

long answer : you can replace the peephole w/o damaging it (if you're renting) and with minimum tools. the hole in the door stays the same, you just unscrew your existing peephole and replace it with something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NV77PY/

Buy a USB hidden camera charger off amazon for $35. It records in 1080p and records to an SD card. No wifi connection needed.

Hidden Cam - Surveillance Camera Full HD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JJ9XZFB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CF49BJC3DTS9BWNCSWC1

Cards are a pain, and the reason for the prop cards is often security. Cards are forgotten, lost, loaned, broken, etc. add a backup PIN as an entry and it becomes a nightmare to keep proper activated/deactivated user lists. Biometrics fix a lot of that. Name/scan done. Nothing to be forgotten, lost etc.

Most of the cheaper cards are super easy to clone, so if you have equipment of any value it becomes a security risk. $15 at Amazon for the basic. A $75 unit does even more card ranges.

HERNAS Premium ID Card Programmer, Handheld 125KHz RFID Reader Writer Duplicator Copier, Hotel Card Cloner, with 10pcs Rewritable Token Tags EM4305 T5577 RFID Cards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Z436CYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G4MFZH7T0MRNE7QVKR6Q

IMHO if you choose to use cards, I would use an actual door access controller. The reader should have a pinpad and require both card tap and PIN to unlock door. This severely reduces risk of card cloning because PIN is still needed. You can create an override PIN only that needs no card if needed.

The Ademco single door controller is like $300, a door strike about $150. Don’t use a mag lock as it creates a host of ADA fire egress issues.

You can also get some decent second hand stuff on eBay well within your range. If you have a bit more info, pic of door/area etc welcome to PM me for some suggestions.

i use this when i travel to shady hotels in usa or anywhere really

https://www.amazon.com/SABRE-Wedge-Security-Alarm-Siren/dp/B00M30SQGA

tell your apartment management company you were stalked and harassed by someone who they failed to prevent from loitering on their property, and due to the need for your own security you'll be installing a removable security camera on your balcony until such time as they can provide for appropriate security.

repeat the same message, in writing, emailed to their management office.

this may buy you the leeway to install a battery powered camera without them bothering you.

i hear good things about blink ($100) and wyze ($50) battery powered stick-up cameras.

just be sure to mount them high enough that trouble-making kids can't snatch them.

I've been very impressed with this rebranded HKvision NVR + 4 camera combo for about $380: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088TJ4JSX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 FWIW, I write video security software and picked up one of these for personal use. The security is very good - all self hosted, no cloud service spying on your data. And exporting video as well as interfacing with the system with my own software is easy - meaning the system follows open standards, not using propriety formats one can't open with conventional software. I strongly recommend.

lots of options including the Yi brand home cams on amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Suveillance-Security-Nursery/dp/B019MMRV1M/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519994183&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=yi+camera

https://www.amazon.com/YI-Wireless-Security-Surveillance-Monitor/dp/B01CW4BN5M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519994183&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=yi+camera

(simple and fast at least, assuming you want minimal config/setup etc)

Wow and those aren't anything fancy or anything. (This will work but probably piss them off and they destroy it)

In the amazon photo they show "Unlock the light with key pin" how secure is the locking mechanism?

In your first image the 2 wall anchors they using the 2 holes located at the very top (each corner)?

Here's my suggestion based on your setup with the information I can see. If these are good enough and appear to be self-sufficient (any internal batteries to swap out? or its it using a cap to store the solar energy?).

1. If the back plate allows I'd drill 2 holes at a diagonal in it (does unlocking let you at the backplate? or does it need to be disassembled?)
2. Drill matching holes in your wood post to allow running 2 bolts thru the backplate and through the post
3. Assuming the backplate is made of plastic might have to get a sheet of steel cut to place inside the unit and

cover as much of the surface mass as possible and drill said matching hole to run your bolts thru

4) Bolt through post and reassemble everything and then if it is self-sufficient i'd BOND THE HELL OUT OF THE

UNIT with somekind of glue or heavy plastic weld. Best would be to somehow reinforce the front of the unit with some metal and run thinner bolt through it and the backplate and the post.

EDIT: OR I JUST CAME ACROSS THESE. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IF3J6WG

install a taller post and mount these higher up ??

(only draw back I can think of is if you live up north during winter time and these ICE/SNOW up since they do not have a heating element installed, flat surface area kinda sucks)

If you look on amazon there are locks made to secure hotel room doors against thieves / intruders. They might be a good option.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/DoorJammer-Portable-Security-Personal-Protection/dp/B00N95IVSQ/

There are several issues at play here.

If you get a camera that is hardwired to power and accepts a MicroSD card, these can usually be set to "continuous record", the camera is always on and constantly record video to the card, overwriting the oldest file when they run out of space. This does eventually "wear out" the card. Better cards last longer, for example the Samsung's PRO Endurance 128GB claims it can function for 43,800 hours of continuous writing.

> I'm also looking for something without subscription, but again if it's really good I could stand to pay a small fee.

The popular cloud-tethered cameras are limiting video duration sent to their cloud service, because that directly costs them money. Even if they charge a fee, they still want to keep costs down.

> I'm leaning toward battery powered but not sure yet.

Battery-powered cameras need to conserve bandwidth and also battery power, so they don't even power-up the video circuitry until after the passive infrared (PIR) sensor has triggered -- this inherently means they miss the beginning of the event.

> I've put a lot of work into reading reviews today but I'm just not convinced that any of them are that good.

Sure, there are good (hardwired) outdoor rated cameras, plan on spending $120-$900 per camera, plus the cost of cabling and a network video recorder (NVR) to analyze and store video locally.

1. Move your wifi router closer to the center of your living space, but away from the microwave oven. Having it sitting next to the exterior wall means half of your usable wifi signal is being uselessly broadcasted into the back yard.

2. Get an phone app like wifi analyzer Find the least used 2.4 and 5 ghz channels for your wifi router and use only NON OVERLAPPING CHANNELS. This link will explain it for 2.4 ghz channel but the same principals apply to 5. ghz channels

https://www.amazon.com/Security-Window-Film-Wide-Roll/dp/B004LDBPY2

Get yourself some window security film. My buddy who used to be a thief said it is the best cheapest most obvious thing that people never think of.

The Envisalink board (http://www.eyezon.com/?page_id=176) you are referring to can do this for you. I use DSC Security Server (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mpp.android.server&amp;hl=en) and have that running on my home server. You can install the app and point it at your server (poke a hole in the firewall to access your SERVER, not the PANEL IP), then arm/disarm/monitor with your mobile device.

I havent used it myself yet as I am waiting for the delivery. From the webpage, it says: Alarm Action:FTP Photo,Local Alarm,Email Photo

Reference: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HIK-1080P-Full-HD-4MP-Multi-language-CCTV-Camera-DS-2CD3345-I-POE-IPC-ONVIF-Waterproof/32754592051.html

There's a good deal right now in Costco if you have one nearby. https://slickdeals.net/f/10409612-lorex-dahua-oem-6x-4k-8mp-security-camera-system-w-8-port-poe-ip-nvr-2tb-hdd-kit-at-costco-b-m-ymmv-for-799-99 or if you can also wait for Black Friday sale for even better deals.

If you are familiar with linux and scripting you could set up something using ImageMagick. This would only work with still images, but I have a friend who has done this with his Raspberry Pi and the results are really good.

If it needs to be a live video feed you might be able to pull it off with ffmpeg. But, there's probably better ways to do it.

Also, try posting your question to places like /r/raspberry_pi, /r/linux, and /r/android as well. They might have more insight.

> I'm not currently running (or fluent in) Linux. Does this take ZoneMinder out of the equation as a software option?

Only if you're unwilling to spend time learning how to set it up.

It looks as though Blue Iris supports Foscam cameras. They have two licenses: $30 for single camera, $50 for unlimited cameras. $50 is pretty inexpensive, and you can try it before buying it.

Disclaimer: I do not work for Blue Iris, I have no stakes in their company, and I've never used it. I've read a lot of great reviews about it, however. I personally use UBNT airCams and airVision. I have also used ZoneMinder in the past.

I ended up doing the same thing with a Raspberry Pi Zero W, a webcam and a few other parts. MotioneyeOS is ideal for this. Not perfect, but better than spending $200+ on a system. Minimum config would be: Raspberry Pi Zero W USB to Micro USB adapter Power Supply WebCam (you probably already have) SD card and the time to download an burn the image to the SD card. https://github.com/ccrisan/motioneyeos/wiki

just a few bits of information, since from your question you don't seem to be in the surveillance industry.

1. every camera has "live viewing". what i think you're referring to is being able to pull the camera up on your computer and see what's going on. every IP camera can do this, so don't think you need to pay extra for this feature. if you're referring to a leave stream, which would be pushing live video off the local network and into the internet, most recorders and most cameras can also do that. but to view it you'll need either a subscription service, or a static IP or a dynamic IP service.
2. never waste your storage with 24/7 recording. always use motion recording.
3. 1080p is an acceptable minimum, but i would recommend 3mp or 4mp if you are hoping to be able to potentially identify unknown people from any distance in your video. the cost premium isn't that great considering the investment for a camera system
4. if you're going to install 8 cameras, consider installing a few from the garage - if you have a detached garage in the back yard. this will give you different angles for improved coverage
5. check with your home insurance to see if cameras will reduce your premiums :)
6. you want to avoid cameras that say they have digital WDR. you want true WDR of at least 120db. Wide Dynamic Range has supplanted IR illumination as the best solution for low-light recording.

I know that SmartThings has what they call a presence sensor. A lot of the examples on their web site are related to pets, but I don't see why you couldn't set it up to arm/disarm based on your proximity.

That's especially true since they have a channel for ifttt, https://ifttt.com/smartthings. You would just have to create a recipe to do what you want. I would be willing to bet that it already exists.

My PoE is on solar.

It's 48V on a 12V solar system, but I used a 12V-&gt;48V converter that can put out 2 Amps at 48V.

Either you would need the solar to charge it 24/7 (my case) or find some way to charge the battery from the grid and automatically switch to the battery during power failure, which would basically be buying all the components of a UPS and building it yourself.

I dont know of any battery cameras that record 24/7. I looked at the brands I trusted and found nothing.

I see you have a decent budget and the system others linked is a good idea since even if they knock your cameras down you will have the video stored in the base. That would be my choice if I lived in an area where i was in danger of getting attacked on my own property.

If you dont go the reolink route. Eufy does make an outdoor camera that is USB powered and records 24/7. The storage is on the camera. Its affordable but does need to be plugged in and the USB adapter is not water resistant. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XH1WTBT/ref=emc\_b\_5\_t

Nest also has cameras that record 24/7 if I remember correctly. I did not look into them at all because I am mad at NEST lol and know nothing about them.

Buy these direct from amcrest and get the 8 pack version. Also get the one with integrated poe switch. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RYBHWZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_5Z4JTM66S7NFX9MKA600?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I picked up a Geeni out door cam for my apartment. It's got motion sensing, full color night vision, micro SD card slot, 2 way audio, and runs on battery or direct power. I think I paid just over $100 for it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GG9WQ94/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Hey, thanks for your answer. This is a great thing to know it exists, but unfortunately I will not be able to use it on this occasion because I dont have a PoE switch. The equipment I want to setup is pretty old, with some chinese NVR. Its not even my, its my friends and he just needs my help to set it up. My plan was originally to use speaker cable with red and black wires with external adapter, and ethernet cable for connection. Dont get me wrong, if I was setting up home security system I would have branded cameras with PoE switch and PoE capability, but this is not mine, im just doing it for a friend.

this is the way.

envisalink is ethernet, not wifi. but that can be solved easily with a wifi access point.

for example, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Extender-External-Antennas-TL-WA855RE/dp/B0195Y0A42/

assuming you mean the nest hub ? "nest" is a speaker :)

if you've already got the google ecosystem, i think you'll get much more use out of sticking with a google screen. otherwise there's the amazon echo show for $90 https://www.amazon.com/Echo-Show-8/dp/B07PF1Y28C/ , which looks to be half the price of a nest hub.

not sure about compatibility with your camera/NVR.

you can also use something like a roku with https://channelstore.roku.com/details/4d75a841b5ca64054d0d577cd68aa043/ip-camera-viewer-pro to watch your cameras on your TV for ~$80

or use a RP4 running shinobi to do the same, for ~$80

Kwikset SmartCode 955 Keypad Electronic Lever Door Lock Deadbolt Alternative with Pembroke Door Handle Lever Featuring SmartKey Security in Iron Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RZ42S1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_408RDC1FQ0PM4S0AKZBD

Don't try to get video/sound recordings through a window, put the camera outdoors.

A/V evidence would be helpful if the authorities don't believe that the unwanted activity is really occurring. It probably won't help if the authorities believe that the unwanted activity is occurring but they don't care or have other enforcement priorities.

Do you have a good angle for your camera? If your footage doesn't show detail that will help in identifying people (license plates, faces, details about dogs or cars or clothing) it probably won't be very helpful.

You should look your state's laws to see if audio recording is legal without the consent of everyone who's being recorded. (If you're going to be doing this from inside your living space, remember that you're likely to end up capturing your own activity, too.)

The cheapest way to do what you're describing is probably a Wyze camera:

https://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Outdoor-Camera-Security-Monitor/dp/B08R59YH7W/

If you can avoid drilling or hammering nails into the asbestos siding, please do so. Otherwise take precautions like wearing a p100 half mask respirator and wetting the area before any disturbance. Asbestos siding is generally very hard but brittle after impact. One would need to make a pilot hole before screwing down otherwise the siding may break into pieces, increasing exposure risk.

If you are looking for more tips when dealing with small asbestos projects for homeowners, please read my ebook. It's complete with infographics and steps to protect yourself and your family. It's free for Amazon Prime members and a low cost educational guide for non-members.

https://www.amazon.com/Asbestos-Exposed-definitive-identification-including/dp/B08H566HPS

Harden the security system. Make sure it works - both the cameras and internet - when a perpetrator turns off the electricity. Get a battery backup (UPS) for that purpose. While 120V UPSes are the most popular, small devices like routers and security systems likely use 6V or 12V, and a low-voltage UPS can give you several hours of battery backup, compared to maybe an hour or two using a conventional UPS. Also, when shopping for conventional UPSes make sure it has an "auto restart" feature. This means the UPS will turn on after a prolonged power outage where the UPS ran out of juice completely. The cheapest options do not auto-start after a complete battery drain and need to be turned on manually.

• conventional with auto-restart: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GZRUZW
• low-voltage: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WLD32RP/

That little white box with the wings is a powerline AP repeater. That grey cable goes to the DVR in that fat phone line jack on the back of it (ethernet cable).

In order to get connectivity to your NVR, you'll need to do one of the below two things:

1) Find a wifi client device (I'd recommend this one on Amazon) and configure it with your wifi network name (SSID) and password. Connect the ethernet port on the TP-Link to the ethernet port on the NVR and you're all set. You could use a Powerline adapter, but I don't really recommend it. Powerline networks are flaky, don't like being on different house phases of power, don't like surge protectors, etc...

2) Run an Ethernet cable from your cablemodem/router to the NVR. You can buy premade Ethernet cables online for cheap, but then you have an ugly cable going across your house (unless you want to run the cable into the attic and back down to your cablemodem).

Option 1 requires some technical know-how, but shouldn't be too hard to get it set up. Option 2 is cheaper, requires almost no significant tech knowledge, but is much more labor intensive.

>Video to go back and check if something happens.

i would forgo the 4g cameras then, they're so expensive.

you could get the most deluxe battery powered camera for less than a 4g, and easily be able to go out and pull the video from it. plus, no monthly recurring bill.

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>I guess about 100 feet, but also a steep incline adding another 20-30.

you could reach that far with an outdoor wifi extender.

https://www.amazon.com/JOOWIN-Wireless-Weatherproof-Extender-802-11AC/dp/B08BZ59GT4/

they make cellular trail cams. reception might be difficult in a concrete/steel storage unit. I assume they upload photos as they take them, probably have to confirm.

I guess you could do something like this for an alarm

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Motion-Security-Burglar-Detection/dp/B00M30SH96

they would just step on it unless it was hidden/protected somehow

I have a few cameras, a wireless access point, and various other ethernet fed devices around our home. I used one of these plates to bring everything through the wall to my server rack to make it look nice:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001C4IV7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_Pt0WFbQ4RPMQJ

For the wap, I literally just drilled a hole large enough for the cat6 to come through, then put a rj45 connector on, mounted the wap to my ceiling on top of it, and that was that.

For cameras outside, I mounted them underneath the eave, one on the wall, one hanging from the eave. There are wall mounting plates made specifically for different exterior finishes, such as vinyl siding (what I used) you can mount your camera to, and have your ethernet come through and connect to your camera. Depending on your camera, you may not even see a cable, and you can caulk/seal around any openings to keep the elements out. I just ran the cat6 through the attic as you said, and used a fish tape from outside, to get it from the attic to the holes I made in the eave, or wall and whatnot.

At my server rack where everything is ran to, I terminated everything to a patch panel, as you don't want to be unplugging, replugging, moving, or simply handling your connectors or cables you've spent who knows how long running all throughout your house and potentially causing to fail.

Last but certainly not least, leave a decent amount of "extra length" in all your runs, I know it's tempting to cut to size.... But worst case scenario, you don't want to have to re run ethernet runs because you ran out of length having to re terminate or something numerous times or some sort of accident happens that your cable gets broke or cut or something. I was able to make a couple loops of extra length at the end by my server cabinet and leave it up above my ceiling where it can't be seen and I did the same near where they were going to the devices they were ran too. Really can't stress this bit enough.

i will believe it when i see it.

funny they use this same box though https://www.amazon.com/SONOFF-Bridge-Wireless-Controllers-Automation/dp/B07CWTT8R1/

Fuck using ring if you have a Synology and are running POE already.

You have a way better system sans the camera already. https://www.synology.com/en-us/surveillance

https://www.amazon.com/Reolink-Outdoor-Surveillance-Security-RLC-420-5MP/dp/B07FQ2T89L/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=reolink+poe&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=reolink+poe&amp;pd_rd_i=B07FQ2T89L&amp;pd_rd_r=a687e6f6-c27e-4f6e-83fc-4e062eda623d...

Done

>there is a light in that room, there are no power outlets

like a regular socket? then this would give you some outlets

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70

Well I work for a dealer so we just buy direct from the distributor, so I don't have a ton of first hand experience buying online. homesecuritystore.com is one that is often mentioned. You can even find some stuff on Amazon pretty cheap, such as this panel: https://www.amazon.com/VISTA20P-Ademco-Zone-Control-Panel/dp/B000H05W9C

Overall though, since you will likely need to buy multiple items for the system, since professional security systems don't really come as much of a kit...I would recommend you shop around for each of the items you plan to buy...as prices for each item can vary quite a lot.

I wouldn't trust any "articles". Most likely they are just advertising in disguise. If it's luke warm on amazon chances are pretty good those are more realistic. Of course the advertisers get on there too.

Sadly all the doorbell companies seem to be taking the same approach which is forcing you into a subscription. I have a ring, and I ended up mounting a second camera so that I don't have to pay the subscription fee. Saves me money in the long term.

Maybe this one? https://www.amazon.com/Zmodo-Doorbell-Security-Camera-Viewing/dp/B0752F6FB3/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540242624&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=zmodo

Thank you for the input, I appreciate it. I might go with the downgraded options simply because we don't need room for expansion since we're on a small city lot and also because 3 weeks storage would be way more than what we need. I'll definitely check these out, thanks again.

Edit: I found these in Amazon for 81 each so I might grab 5 or 6 of them. I can adjust the angle to get a greater mm resolution , correct?

https://www.amazon.com/Hikvision-DS-2CD2142FWD-I-Network-Dome-2-8mm/dp/B017Y4CD9U

Also, do I need to get the mounts for them (8 each) and can I buy any hdd or does it have to be hikvision?

That's why 3rd party software is the best. I think there are hikvision DVRs and such, but then you are looking for a turnkey solution. Turnkeys are never as flexible as PCs with software.

Various companies make NVRs with BlueIris. A quick look at amazon got me this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0743WP62Q but I can't speak to the quality of it at all.

Best bet may just be buying an analog DVR similar to the one below and connecting the cameras to it and see if they work. I never tried this model, but it's cheap and just an example. If you have an analog viewfinder, you could just connect the viewfinder to the BNC end and see if you have an image. But theres no real point in spending money on a viewfinder, when you could just get the DVR through Amazon, and worst case return the DVR. There has to be a power source somewhere, typically 12VDC but they definitely could be different. I have some flirs at my house (IP though) and mine disassemble by unscrewing the shroud from the base. Then the ball of the camera just hangs loosely. It should tell you on the camera its voltage requirements.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M7XM5Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yW-6CbX23JSQ6

i assume you have a lot of possible intrusion from the back, that's why you got a bunch aimed at the back, even the side cams?

anyway, i would not put the front cam in the middle. i would put 2 cams in the front, one looking to the left, the other looking to the right so there's no blind spot.

doorbell cameras require 18V AC. yes, there's an adapter to power your doorbell. once powered, the vid doorbell will link to your wifi so make sure your wifi is strong out in the front door.

Yeah that's been on my to-do list to try something similar. I've got a bunch of esp8266/Tasmota/MQTT things around the house, and figure I could build something to measure voltage drop or current at doorbell transformer that might be more accurate detecting doorbell ring. You probably can power an esp8266 from doorbell transformer if you build a power supply from full bridge rectifier and then DC-DC buck converter. Doing that for Rainbird irrigation system shutoff control that runs off of 24VAC.

Used this rectifier with couple big caps on output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081RHY6RB/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_LMYHFbPY4JAEE and feed into this for DC-DC converter tp get down to 5vdc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SY37S00/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_XNYHFbSVCFCJT

Listen your (i get your point) BUT YOUR COMING OFF AS AN ASSHOLE.

First you provided to much personal information which inflicted personal responses from others.

Second did you do any research? You say you need something akin to a &quot;wireless (battery/solar powered) outdoor wifi camera with an Micro SD card&quot; but have tried googling it first?

Third you sound like an outsider looking in, maybe the frustration your having isn't really yours to have and/or your making things more complicated for them to deal with.? Just give overly advice and not specific "This is how you do this..."

I honestly recommend the "Ring Spotlight Cam Battery HD Security Camera with Built Two-Way Talk and a Siren Alarm, White, Works with Alexa" (you don't need to pay the $3 a month storage fee) and a "NETGEAR Mobile WiFi Hotspot | 4G LTE Router AC797-100NAS" (you'll need to buy minutes for it) as back up. I'm sure you'll figure this out.

door chains are easy to bypass. if you posted a picture of your chain it could be easier to help out. i would invest in something like https://www.amazon.com/Flip-Guard-FG-1000-SN/dp/B00HZD8S8G/ or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PQD7F3C/

Look for a camera (or NVR) which has a "pre buffer", it should state something like this:

> Pre-record and post-record allows the camera to capture activity before a triggered event and extend the recording after the event finished, so you'll always know what happened, from start to finish.

I turn on "continuous" in the camera, and then set it to email/upload motion clips when triggered. That way even if the clip is too short, I can go and grab the files from the timeframe before/after the event, days or (with the 128GB card) a full week later.

Of course that requires a better camera, something in the +$120 range.

the ones LEO would use are big, clunky things since they're meant to be used over and over on different vehicles. and designed to be chucked up under the car by someone doing a walk by.

trackers meant to be installed are tiny and hard to differentiate from any other random module in the vehicle.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S2YXFHP/

paint that gray and glue it up under some other electronics under the hood and you'll never find it without doing a really detailed tear-down.

there's also always the option of just sticking a smart phone in a body cavity of the car, and clipping onto the lighting wires for power.

I’m going with Eyez-on.

I’m in the Apple ecosystem and after some time decided to go with HomeKit as my smarthome platform. The comments I’ve read around DSC AND Eyez-on have all been positive - sensors are snappy and accurate, no downtime/disconnects.

Here’s a video I came across with a guy using his Apple Watch with his Dsc alarm. (I’m not really a fan of voice assistances so I wouldn’t be doing this really).

I've used these. The key is the ground wire needs to go to your main utility ground rod at the electral service entrance. Ideally each home run, but that sometimes isn't easily doable. Running to copper water pipe that is usually bonded to ground somewhere is another option. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008060BU0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_6gngFbR7MAQ1B

Something like this? https://smile.amazon.com/Driveway-Operating-Melodies-Security-Weatherproof/dp/B07YFT27K9/

I have exactly zero knowledge of that product, just the first hit on Amazon. You get the idea though. If I'm understanding correctly that's the type of thing you are looking for.

oh, i see it doesn't include the HDD

you can use any 3.5" HDD, and four 2MP cameras even recording 24x7 only need 900Gb per week. so a 2Tb drive would give you 14 days of constant recording.

although i recommend motion detection.

2Tb HDD from amazon is $70 for a fancy one https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Skyhawk-Surveillance-Hard-Drive/dp/B07H2F3744/

by home monitoring device, they might mean a DVR. I haven't seen much about these cameras but from what I can find based on the pictures:

https://www.amazon.com/Q-See-QTH8053B-2-Analog-Bullet-Security/dp/B01IHHNGSU

Assuming all the cameras work, you just have to supply power and hook it up to this DVR, should be pretty easy if all wiring is in the attic. On the amazon page above, scroll down to DVR compatibility.

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EDIT: Based on some of the reviews on amazon though, it might be better to invest in better cameras though. Check for yourself.

Do you happen to have a large gun safe that you could put something like this into?

https://smile.amazon.com/SentrySafe-Water-Resistant-Cubic-HD4100/dp/B00GE57DFK

You might also want to think about getting a safe deposit box at a bank/credit union if it's not a document you need quick access to.

Touchscreen keypad..

If you go with a cellular monitoring service, they will have their own recommendation for a modern cellular interface that'll work with your panel.

I have the C2 also. Both will send a notification to your app. It can take up to 10 seconds sometimes, but I don't think any of them out there will do it with in a second. I normally get a notification with in 3 to 5 seconds of it detecting motion. Here is the app for Android. Says instant alerts coming soon, but it's in the app now.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.foscam.foscam

You can also have it record on to a SD card when it detects motion. It will keep up to 5 seconds before the motion is detected and will record up to 5 minutes after the motion is detected.

You're likely seeing the inverse of what you want.

A "CCTV Balun", also known as "Coax over Ethernet" allow you to plug a coax camera into an Ethernet cable, and are cheap.

Since your in-wall cabling is coax, what you need is "Ethernet Over Coax", specifically "POE Power and Data Transmission Over RG59"

A local real estate agent / realtor may have some suggestions, as they use them all the time.

The Master Lock ones are pretty common (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-5400D-Combination-Portable/dp/B0002YP1VC/), but Master Lock don't exactly have a good reputation so I'm not sure how good they are.

Maybe use a Driveway alarm type device to alert you to folks approaching sooner (can put behind house or other paths you think they are taking). You might even ignore a few attempts of them and just learn their routine/path so you can setup some hidden trail cameras further out to identify them next time. Hopefully you can then identify and file harassment paperwork and maybe get a restraining order. People think it's silly prank until it isn't

if you have regular coax cable going to your cameras, you'll just need a POE/coax balun. they've come down in price, but still aren't the cheapest thing in the world.

for example, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G194BQD/

Couple options IMO. Smart cameras with proper zones enabled to get alerts to your phone when someone's in the driveway. You can pair that with your DND settings to only get alerts at night if you want.

You could also go with a driveway alarm system if you like. I had a bunch of people walking up my driveway break into my car, so I bought one of these and after greeting them with a can of pepper gel a few times I haven't seen them since.

https://smile.amazon.com/HTZSAFE-Transmission-Range-300-Battery-Outdoor-Weatherproof/dp/B07JB28D6V/

These same sensors can also be configured with an outdoor alarm. I wouldn't use the actual alarm, that's not neighbor friendly. But they offer a "flashing light" mode that will alert someone that you have some kind of motion sensor / alarm system.

Oh and this goes without saying but a SHITLOAD of light. Thieves LOVE the dark.

I have a dozen Wyze v3 cams, and they are 'good enough' for a remote location solution, IMO. I pay the $99/year for up to 99 camera's to get the full 'recognition' and 'notification' services. Much easier than trying to do that myself. And most likely cheaper too.

https://www.amazon.com/Vision-Indoor-Outdoor-Camera-Assistant/dp/B08R59YH7W/

the audio is bad, but the picture is great.

This Driveway Alarm might help until you figure out which camera you want to use:

1/2 Mile Long Range Solar Wireless Driveway Alarm

It's $91 on UK Amazon which is a lot to pay for something not fully supported https://www.amazon.co.uk/IndWyze-Indoor-Outdoor-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B08R59YH7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=SSJMCVFDGX86&amp;keywords=wyze+cam+v3&amp;qid=1670579131&amp;sprefix=wyze%2Caps%2C94&amp;sr=8-4

you're exceeding the max allowable length for sending video down "twisted pair" using passive baluns, and probably exceeding resolution limitations if you're using cheaper baluns.

for example, https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Passive-Transceiver-Transmitter-Security/dp/B083N94QPB

lists max distance of 1000ft for AHD (2MP) or 200ft for TVI (2MP). you're trying to send 8MP 12000ft.

you might find a powered blaun that will work.

i don't quickly find one with googling :<

NVR= network video recorder. it will record whatever video devices there are on your network, assuming these devices use open standards like ONVIF and RTSP.

the cameras can be connected directly to the back of the NVR to provide the video stream to the NVR as well as receive power from NVR. if you dont connect cam to NVR, you can connect cam to your network using a POE switch. the cam will send videos onto your network and receive power from POE switch. OR you can use a POE injector such as this or a regular 12v DC power adapter. that way, you can get power directly from a wall outlet and plug the cat5 cable to your normal networking switch or router.

I would imagine pretty low cost attacks such as a bed sheet or a piece of duct tape would result in a false negative, you are better off spending your money with a simple PIR motion sensor:

https://www.amazon.com/ISC-BPR2-W12-Detector-Coverage-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B0191U3IZS

Or:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BDL2-WP12G-TriTech-Motion-Detector/dp/B0056Z3W6I

Use the CV models as an awareness tool instead of your primary detection mechanism.

Sorry as its probably not what you want to hear.

Frigate has made some big strides in the CV space for home security and some people have gotten great results. Currently it is just very resource intensive to do live video recognition without some sort of more basic motion filtering first.

Just noticed the same thing and am absolutely fuming. They more than doubled the already completely bullshit fee from $3 to $6.40.

I'm going to look into moving back to Frontpoint.

https://www.trustpilot.com/review/brinkshome.com 3.5/5.0.

https://www.trustpilot.com/review/www.frontpointsecurity.com 4.4/5.0.

Brinks is a public company and needs to squeeze more $$$ to appease its shareholders. Except customers aren't getting anything out of this - I don't have any new features or better service compared to 7 years ago other than what Alarm.com provides, which has nothing to do with Brinks. It's a BS fee.

On the other hand, Frontpoint, like LiveWatch, is a private company with values and good customer service. I called them, and they gave me a $34.99 lock-in with a guarantee that this rate will never go up (not sure I believe that - especially if they ever get bought), 2 free months of service, and a free smoke sensor. I do have to pay for a replacement panel - $99, and then deal with re-pairing all the sensors, but I will go through the trouble if Brinks doesn't come down and do away with their BS.

Here's a camera that can connect to the cloud, your own setup, or it be standalone. You can control it through it's built in webserver or the app. It can be connected via WiFi or Ethernet.

I have it so if you want to test it out or have questions, let me know.

Amcrest 1080P WiFi Security Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQXCK

If you want a full setup, I recommend getscw.com.

Possibly overkill but definitely. Im noticing now there is CMX rated cable in white, too. Hmm. UV rated white cable? Guess I may need to look into that more.

https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Jacket-Outdoor-CMX-Ethernet/dp/B00MU63TIW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cat5e+cmx&amp;qid=1669841717&amp;sr=8-3

Cat6 is really not necessary by the way. Cat5e will also do gigabit, whereas cameras are 100mb links. Save money.

There are some runs that certainly wont be as well shielded under an overhang, so I probably need UV rated.

Would something like this work well?

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Unshielded-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVMYLM/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2ISIDZN7EQM6O&amp;keywords=cat6%2Bburial%2Bcable&amp;qid=1669839888&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=cat6%2Bburial%2Celectronics%2C118&amp;sr=1-8&am...

Thanks

Is something like this OK? I know it's not shielded, but I don't anticipate the runs to be that long and I don't expect to use that much bandwidth per camera

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Waterproof-Unshielded-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVMYLM/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2ISIDZN7EQM6O&amp;keywords=cat6%2Bburial%2Bcable&amp;qid=1669839888&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=cat6%2Bburial%2Celectronics%2C118&amp;sr=1-8&am...

What are your primary concerns?

If your own safety --> Firearm, pepper gel, some other type of weapon to help defend yourself

If your concern is more around your belongings I would recommend finding ways to secure those belongings. Better locks. Cheap window sensors that will ping your phone if they're opened. I am a huge HUGE fan of things like laptop locks. They won't stop someone who's fully prepared to burglar, but they will stop your average smash and grab style thief.

I just bought one of these myself as my laptop is right next to a window and we're on the ground floor:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTBQUX2/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o05\_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I purchased this small thing from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Security-Monitors-Detection-LUOHE/dp/B07J2L5R2L

Very useful, and I hope to help you.

It’s very surprise me because it looks like the charger and can be use to charge too, plus camera, the sounds is perfect and if you need any help, customer service always be there for you and guide you very fast response. It’s a must have spy camera

But now that you mention it, a backup camera might just be the right form factor, as well as being waterproof! I could get a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KXXKH5B They'd be small enough that the historic board wouldn't say anything. I'd need to run power to them. I'd wanted to avoid that, but it's not a deal breaker. Hmmm.....

Why not get something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/OnGARD-Reinforcement-Alternative-Burglaries-Withstands/dp/B07MDYY2J2/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=Door+Bolt+Floor+Lock&amp;qid=1668991642&amp;sr=8-13

I have this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNQP1H1 -- which has been replaced with a 4MP camera. The cool thing is that I can adjust each camera to get > 180 with the 2.8mm - works well but I just noticed the reolink which does the splicing which would be pretty neat.

Looks like this would work?

https://www.amazon.com/Envisalink-EVL-4EZR-Interface-Honeywell-Compatible/dp/B016WQTJ4S

Think I might offer to give him the LTE transmitter back in exchange for installing this. Would that be a fair offer? He mentioned before that LTE transmitters are in short supply. So it might help him out. But then might be salty losing a subscriber.

There are commercial sensors meant for these big doors. Wire it to the panel, or wire it to a honeywell transmitter.

https://www.amazon.ca/Potter-Amseco-ODC-59A-Overhead-Switch/dp/B000GUSNQW/ref=asc_df_B000GUSNQW/?tag=googlemobshop-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=459196426448&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=8217122409460245967&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt...

> The challenge is sometimes the cabling is obscenely hard to replace with scissor lifts and stuff

IP over coax baluns have really come down in price, last year or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-3000ft-Transmission-Regular-coaxial/dp/B07G194BQD/

i swear they were like +$200 i checked.

if you're not on a super tight budget, and have LOS, you can put together a solar solution, using wireless bridge to throw wifi out to each remote spot. then you can use any WiFi camera you want.

https://www.amazon.com/UeeVii-Outdoor-Wireless-Transmitter-Distance/dp/B083QCRS2V/

https://www.amazon.com/SOLPERK-Maintainer-Waterproof-Controller-Adjustable/dp/B08XYY5CDM/

these are just examples, i haven't used either.

do you know what resolution your cameras are ? for a DVR you mostly just need the resolution to match what your cameras are.

cheap DVRs are available on amazon, for example https://www.amazon.com/ZOSI-Surveillance-Recorders-Standalone-Detection/dp/B07LGX7VWM

you'll need a HDD, for example https://www.amazon.com/Purple-2TB-Surveillance-Hard-Drive/dp/B071RM2HS7/

We have EmpireTech cameras, https://www.amazon.com/EmpireTech-IPC-T5442T-ZE-Vari-Focal-Eyeball-Starlight/dp/B08C77TNY9

These work very very well for us to have video of the driveway. It even works at night with color set up as forced, and I have it running off a PoE network switch and recording with BlueIris.

amazon has a few things

https://www.amazon.com/GooSpy-Hidden-Camera-Charger-Surveillance/dp/B09TW8SXNC

https://www.amazon.com/MITUUT-Wireless-Portable-Security-Outdoor/dp/B09TYY2GSH

and more...