What are /r/centurylink's favorite Products & Services?

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Can it be that your ISP is throttling you? Do you have the VPN set up on the router or just your connection goes through the router while you have a VPN enabled on your computer? if you have the VPN on your router, check if it's compatible with a VPN in the first place, and if everything is set up well.

I've had a similar problem when my NordVPN speeds just went downhill and I realized that my ISP (bastard) was throttling it. What helped me was switching to obfuscated servers. But in my opinion, I think there might be smth wrong with the router/set up

I never said it won’t in the future, and your results are due to good conditions, however for most people 500 Mbps+ isn’t obtainable on wifi, stabile around the home. Take a look in the Home Networking sub Reddit and if you ask most of them, they’ll tell you the same thing. 500 Mbps+ should not be expected around the home on WiFi and is a big ask (currently) with consumer hardware. I am on a clear 5GHz channel, and I got this result a few feet from my router. It is normally 900, 700, when hardwired.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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had this for 2 years now rock solid

The cool thing about CenturyLink Gig service is that you don't need a modem at all. The ONT they provide is akin to the modem in the sense that it Modulates and Demodulates light signals. You just need a good router that supports PPPoE authentication and VLAN tagging usually (that can vary on the region a bit)

This modem appears to be decent for less than $100

Most routers on Amazon/Ebay that have "gig ethernet" and "dual band wifi" should be compatible.

Also don't expect to get gig speeds over wifi ever. That's unrealistic unless you buy the best equipment for clients and for your router. If you need the full speed a hardwired ethernet connection to the router is going to be your best bet.

If it's on the same circuit breaker, you can look into a power line wifi extender. I have one for my detached garage and I've gotten 30 out of the 80. And that was without 5g.

Does your CL modem/router have both wireless G (2.4 GHz) and AC (5 GHz)? Any WiFi extender should work but make sure it supports the WiFi protocol the modem/router has. Normally, an AC WiFi extender should be backward compatible but read the description to be sure.

Here is an example on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1WW638/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8v0pEb0D2MWS7

They're throttling. Use a VPN and the problem disappears. It's shit, but that's what we get for letting ISPs run the internet.

I recommend Private Internet Access. $40 a year, there are no logs kept, and you can pay with bitcoin. If any of that matters.

True, In the photo posted we see in the Network Interface Device (NID) outside we see a DSL SLED ( the orange thing) with ports for both phone and DSL. And we see (2) pairs of wire so we know it's a bonded connection 2 DSL connections tied together to double the data rate and provide 100 total

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Both the blue and the green pair which are both in "DSL" ports on the orange sled need to be traced and wired to the new jack.

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While there may be less expensive models at a big box home improvement stores or other models online, low voltage professions use something like a Tempo brand telephone wire tracer (AKA Fox & hound). The are a great tool to help with something like this.

Have you considered just paying the $100 to have a new jack installed to CenturyLink?

So you pay for a 600 Down and ??? Up, but it seems the real life speed is inadequate and far from what you are paying for. I would check out https://www.speedtest.net/ and see what kind of speed you are getting, try to check a server nearest you. I only have CenturyLink DSL it's much slower than yours 80mb Down and 10mb Up, but I have low ping so I never seem to lag in most games; the overseas games I may have a higher ping but lag/stutter is non existent.

https://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-C3000Z-Modem-CenturyLink-Renewed/dp/B08666QX62/ref=sr_1_4?adgrpid=1345802799735038&hvadid=84112889690235&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=75936&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-84113026664667%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=18002_13443495&keywords=c3000z+modem&qid=1666184973&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjQ0IiwicXNhIjoiMS44NCIsInFzcCI6IjEuNDEifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-4

Exactly the problem I'm having. I noticed that the disconnects (via clicking on the NTD) happened randomly throughout the day, so I put a timed power outlet in front of the NTD to reset every morning at 5am. This has completely mitigated disconnects throughout the day.

Curious though, how did you get in touch with someone to replace your box? I've been having the same issues with lots of run-around and not helpful techs.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086DN9QT3

Buy this

TP-Link 5 Port Gigabit Switch |... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N0OHEMA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Configure the switch to vlan tag. On the first port.

Disconnect Ethernet cables from Gwifi wait for it to pulse the amber light.

Configure Gwifi for pppoe Home app>wifi>settings>advanced networking>WAN

Select PPPoE and enter creds

Connect the ONT to the first port of the switch Connect Gwifi to the 3rd port of the switch

Return the shit box to CL and stop paying the lease fee.

Update: managed to get the box open with just a "deep thin wall" socket set. Looks like a regular SC-APC connector inside to me (thanks u/Bmkiesel!), will buy a cable sufficiently long for the pull before my electrician shows up.

Here are the instructions. Purchase a TP-Link TL-SG105E switch on Amazon. You have to use a managed switch, my instructions are for this model. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG105E-5-Port-Gigabit-Version/dp/B00N0OHEMA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1FM2YVDPY8CT9&keywords=tp-link%2Bsg105e&qid=1654261353&sprefix=tp-link%2Bsg105e%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-1&th=1

Then you can wire from ONT to TP-Link (port 1) and from TP-Link (port2) - Google Wifi router.

To configure the TP-Link for vlan tagging:

Configure TP-Link TL-SG105E The TL-SG105E doesn't remember settings after being unplugged if you don't click "Save Config" on the right.

Plug your computer into port 5 of the switch You will need to set your computer IP address to 192.168.0.2 Go to http://192.168.0.1 in your browser Login with admin for the username and password Click VLAN on the left Click 802.1Q VLAN on the left Enable 802.1Q VLAN Configuration Click "Apply" Type 201 into the VLAN ID box, and name it "Fiber" Check the "Tagged" radio button for Port 1 Check the "Untagged" radio button for all other ports Click "Add/Modify" Click 802.1Q PVID on the left Check Port 1 and 2 Type 201 into the PVID box Click "Apply" Plug the cable from the ONT into Port 1 Plug the router into Port 2 Click "Save Config" and confirm

I did have to reboot my Google Wifi router for this to come up.

If you have not already, you will need to setup the Google Wifi router for PPPoE and set your credentials.

FWIW, Express VPN is one of the dodgier VPNs out there. It's owned by a malware company and has very unclear privacy practices (see here:

I'd suggest IVPN or Mullvad, personally, but there are many.

Also, sometimes these notices are just bogus. You can be torrenting some Linux distribution and get them, so it may just be nothing.

Moving the ONT can be as simple as a fiber optic cable and a coupler:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XSXQJRT

The ONT mounts to the wall with a plastic pedestal. Inside is a loop of extra fiber, and it's probably hiding the ugly hole in the wall where the fiber jumper from the outside comes in.

With a longer cable, you can either replace the jumper, or extend it where you want it. If you're handy and can YouTube your way through fishing a cable into the new ONT location, you're all set.

Caution: if you damage the existing cable or can't be bothered to treat the new cable with respect while pulling it, or protecting it after, you can put yourself in a bad place while you wait for a tech to arrive.

They've designed the ONT location to keep things simple and the fiber safe. Not sure what a tech charges for relocation.

>WiFi was never able to, or is supposed to handle more then 500Mbps.

Who told you that? Wifi has been incrementally improving for years, and can certainly do better than 500 Mbps now.

I just got this result (756 down, 849 up) over wifi, one room over my router with a wall in-between. It's a good 802.11ac router, a laptop that supports 3x3, on a clear 5GHz channel.

Yes, https://www.speedtest.net/my-result/d/efa2f292-7077-44cc-afe0-4fb9ed6c0a18

I'm running an ASUS 5300, with the centurly link modem bypassed direct Ethernet in from the ONT. Router has PPPOE credentials into it with the wan port tagged to VLAN 201.

Update on this, after emailing the apartment manager.

They had a centurylink sales rep reach out to me and we were able to get the Calix MDU ONT installed and my service is now setup and working as of this past Wednesday!

it's so beautiful!

If Fiber is available to OP, I couldn't disagree more.

I've had Cox for a couple of years, and it's been mediocre at best. Frequent service outages were my biggest issue. Switched to CL Fiber a couple of months ago, and it's been rock-solid reliable. Speed tests at 940 Mb most of the day, and when things get really busy in the afternoons/evenings, it slows to about 650 at worst.

After experiencing both Cox and CL (both FTTH), I wish I had gone with CL Fiber right from the beginning. At least in the Vegas area with fiber deployment, CL has a much better product.

This is right now: https://www.speedtest.net/my-result/d/f04a559f-f691-41af-a9e6-96c0bd2da27e

I bought one of these cables years ago but don't have any recollection of SNR improvement, but a shielded cable should be an improvement.

i love asus devices they can all mesh together seemlessly. this one is great for the cost.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-AX1800-WiFi-Router-RT-AX55/dp/B08J6CFM39/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2UKECGKL3N4NZ&keywords=asus+mesh&qid=1643165503&sprefix=asus+mesh%2Caps%2C85&sr=8-18

you can buy 1 2 or as many as you want. the asus app updates and keeps everything in order

Yeah, but it helps me keep up with current tech if I actually use it.

I use fast.com to measure speeds - it's much slower right not than I usually see at 350 Mbps up, 330 Mpbs down, says it's using "Servers(s) Portland, US |Tukwill, US".

"Unloaded" latency 4 ms, loaded latency 5 ms.

Usually I get closer to 900 mbps on ethernet, and about 600 Mbps / 300 Mbps on my Galaxy S9 with 5 Ghz wifi (I forget the exact specs for my wifi AP and Samsung device - but those speeds are good enough for me).

Yeah, I've been checking a few different internet speedtest sites and I'm getting wide ranges.

Google - 500+

Fast.com - 300

Ookla - 40

I'm not sure why there is such a difference between fast and ookla?

I get full 10GbE speeds between my Plex box (Hades Canyon w/ i7-8809G) and its storage box, a TS-1677x (Ryzen 5 1600), no issues maxing out their 10GbE nics. My i7 3930k workstation gets the same speeds using speedtest.net with the local centurylink server, actually get slightly faster download using the comcast server. Fast.com shows 610 down as well. UDMP shows all time peak usage as 652 Mbps download and 963 Mbps upload.

I've been having this same problem in Denver for the last few weeks, typically during peak hours, but now here I am at 11am on a Wednesday and these are the speeds I'm getting after a full reboot of all equipment in my house. It's absolutely unacceptable. I understand bottlenecking during busy times but how does it get this bad? It was in this ballpark of 30-50 when I went to bed at 2am too. I'm going to call tech support but I know there's nothing that I can accomplish aside from maybe venting to someone who doesn't deserve it.

That makes a lot of sense actually. Thanks for explaining that.

I did look into this: Ubiquiti EdgeRouter 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PGCGN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VNQRFG30ZDJ5Z0N3C062

I read some forms about offloading PPPoE tasks and that router can do that. Please let me know if that’s true or if you have another one in mind that is better.

Also, when you say that PPPoE is a single-threaded task on software, what software are you referring to? Can you please explain that a bit more in detail?

I wonder if the EdgeRouter 4 will handle the PPPoE tasks, then will my current GT-AXE11000 router be able to handle the switching/routing portion or do I need to get a business class switch then only use my GT-AXE11000 as a wireless AP?

I was thinking of something like this, I'm moving to a rural area and believe Tmobile will work, but something like this is my backup plan...

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Routeur-mobile-Nighthawk-MR1100/dp/B079H2LX8X/ref=sr_1_11?crid=HA54O4LCJEEU&keywords=Hotspot&qid=1639688699&sprefix=hotspot%2Caps%2C294&sr=8-11

What operating system are you using?

Edit: if on windows 10 try this https://winaero.com/blog/see-the-ethernet-or-wifi-adapter-speed-in-windows-10/

I moved from Cox to Centurylink Fiber earlier this year, and my only regret is not doing it earlier. It's been less expensive, faster, and more reliable than Cox. If you want live TV, you'll have to look elsewhere (I use Sling TV), but for internet, I couldn't be more pleased. No extra taxes, no "regional sports fee," "franchise fee," or any of the other bullshit Cox would tack onto my bill. In my area, it's advertised as $65, and that's all I pay.

Cox was going offline for our whole neighborhood more than weekly (anywhere from 15 mins to an hour), which was driving me insane. The only outage CL has had for me has been a 4-hour outage when a construction crew cut a fiber line, but otherwise it's been up 100% of the time for the six months I've had it.

Speed is exactly as advertised (that's a speed test I just ran).

Certainly sounds like a CL connectivity issue, what speed test site are you using?

Did you try different speed test sites? fast.com seems to be the best one I've found (run by netflix).

And try different browsers too just for sanity - I know for a while on android Chome was faster than Firefox for fast.com

But certainly sounds like a CL issue, IMO the tech should have done some sort of speed test prior to leaving. I'd complain again if they are all slow.

Generally agreed, though I was really surprised yesterday when I ran speed tests (fast.com) on my CL fiber via the C3000A 5GHz wifi to my wife's iPhone (recent model) and hit 600 Mbps down and up!

My Samsung S9+ can only get up to about 320 Mbps on the same setup.

I switched, and have been happy with CL.

I was paying about $80 / mo for something like 100 / 6 Mbps with Comcast, internet only.

CL had a special in my area (Portland, OR) for $50 for 1 Gpbs down/up. I've seen measured speeds from fast.com of about 920 / 900, and download speeds close to that.

After 4 months, I have not had any increases so far in CL pricing, but there was no guarantee on that price that I could find.

Per other comments, try to set things up so you can have a week or so overlap of service.

If you know where you want the fiber to come into your house and where you want the CAT-5E cable and router to be placed, let the CL installer know (fiber comes into the ONT, and then CAT-5e from the ONT to your router) - I was able to get them to put the fiber line next to other incoming lines, and to run a CAT-5E across my basement.

The CL tech used fast.com, that also worked OK for me.

I get a fairly large variance when I test speeds, both downloads and uploads vary from about 600 - 960 Mbps. That's somewhat expected for any download test over the internet - you can't control or isolate other traffic external to your local network.

So 550 does not seem unusually bad, I would run it a few times, try using some different sites/apps (fast.com and ookla) and also try testing during off-hours later at night and see if it changes or varies.

It's nice to hit higher transfer rates, but if you are actually downloading files, you probably won't get higher than 600 or so anyway.

Hahah ... I'm in NW PDX and had an install about 3 weeks ago, the tech texted me beforehand.

I would also note that I asked for a specific incoming location and cat-5 routing from the ONT in the basement: he routed cat-5 in my basement from one side to the other - otherwise he might have come in on the other side of my house where I have no other connections, and done shorter inside the house wiring.

I have a C3000A, trying to move it to be inside my current firewall/router setup.

Despite some negative comments on it here, it's much better than my current wifi AP - the 5G wifi on it can do (using fast.com) something like 300 Mbps down or up (I have to try it on my Mac - that is on Android Samsung S9+).

On wired ethernet (Max OS X, web browser again to fast.com), I see maximums of 940 Mbps down *or* up, and ping times are about 1ms unloaded, 10ms loaded: pretty impressive.

FWIW, If you happen to be in a really population dense metro area, it may be the best you can expect. The technology fiber uses (GPoN) splits a 2.4Gbps downstream/ 1.2Gbps upstream connection between either 32 or 64 residences. If you do the math, you'll see it can get much worse in an area with close to 100% utilization.

Have you also tried late at night (~1-2am), or very early morning ~(4-5am) when the network load is likely less? Also, if you are using the centurylink (speedtest.net) test sites, try other locations. They are known to come up short. Fast.com is another option which tests on the Netflix network.

FWIW, in a suburban neighborhood which has only had gigabit offered for a year or so, I can nearly always get the full 940Mbps upload, and average between 700Mbps and 940Mbps on the download. 940Mbps is the theoretical max due to network overhead.

What speedtests are you running? I can only get those speeds when I specifically connect to a nearby municipal fiber. Fast.com, centurylink and others I'm in the 200-300 range if that.

Using 1.1.1.1 as my DNS

I've tried looking at speeds in task manager downloading .ISO from Windows and it peaks at the 700 mbps range.

Any other tips for C3000A would be great.

Responding to this thread to close the loop. The issue was two fold.

1. I tested the circuit using speedtest.net with both Firefox and Chrome. ~14% difference without any Meraki Firewall features turned on (AMP, URL Filtering, ACLs, etc). Chrome reported 14% faster speeds!
   
2. Fast.com for testing circuit speeds reported ~1% percent difference between the browsers with any Meraki Firewall features turned on.

Directly wiring reported negligibly faster speeds than running traffic through the firewall without features turned on.

If it makes you feel any better those speedtest numbers are almost 100% garbage, 100% of the time.

What does a laptop wired into the router say when you go to speedtest.net or fast.com?

yesh that's very weird, I just got 900+ https://www.speedtest.net/result/8800203737

Just open a ticket and see what they have to say, I"m curious.

I know even with GPON there is some bandwidth sharing but to get 18mbps it needs a lot of users trying to use the full bandwidth

A wired connection will be faster than WiFi in like, 99.9% of cases. And it should be. Not only that, but a wired connection will have much less latency than WiFi. Which is definitely preferred in online gaming. Latency, which can be identified by the ping statistic like in this picture of my speed test.

Notice how on my wired connection, my ping is 3. This is extremely good ping and generally only available on fiber optic connections. A good ping for ADSL2+ would be between 30 and 40 ms I believe. Generally depending on conditions, you could easily see a 20 ms difference in ping going from wired to WiFi. So in terms of ping, the lower the better.

Ping is important because it determines how fast your connection is sending and receiving requests from distant servers. So say you are in a multiplayer game online, ping factors into things like your characters movement. When you move your character, it sends a request to a distant server and then that server sends a request back updating your movement. This happens very fast, but if you have a high ping, say 100ms, then you will start seeing lag because your connection isn't updating fast enough. There are a lot of things that affect ping, but this is the basics.

If you're WiFi connection is on average faster than your wired speed in terms of downloading, then something could be off in your network setup.

Hey, I wrote the original post. I have an ER8 as well. Set it up as DHCP in ER8.

Now, for distributing the static IPs, you have two options:

1. If you want one host behind the ER8 to have the static IP, then set up one of the LAN ports (or VLAN) with IP 75.x.x.122. The host behind this port should use 75.x.x.122 as the gateway (either via DHCP or not) and 75.x.x.121 as it's IP with /30 (netmask of 255.255.255.252), broadcast of 75.x.x.123.
2. If you want four static IP addresses to give out to your whole network (/30 is 4), you can instead of doing the above, use NAT rules in the ER8. Use source NAT rules to match whatever traffic you want, egressing out your internet interface, and use the NAT rule to translate the IP to 75.x.x.120, 75.x.x.121, 75.x.x.122, or 75.x.x.123. Check with ipinfo.io or a similar site to make sure that the traffic appears to exit the ER8 with the right IP. To forward ports, use the destination NAT, and just specify the original destination as being one of those four IPs and the original destination port to be the port you care about, configure the rest as you normally would. Now that port is only forwarded from that static IP to a host on your local network.

I don’t know of any routers that can handle 3 dsl lines, some can do two if it’s a bonded setup from the provider but guessing that’s not an option or you’d already have it. Soo individual modems is likely the only option.

On the router front you might want to consider looking into bonded vpn like https://speedify.com/ which can combine multiple connections of different speeds, no changing IP address, no dropping connections if one link goes down. I used it to make a mobile broadcast rig, that utilizes 5x 4G/LTE modems and it can seamlessly keep streaming moving through coverage areas as long as 1 modem stays up. When all are up it’s better speed than possible any other way. Similar could be done with CL and starlink.

Check the channel on your router settings. I use NetSpot, to check my surrounding wifi channels. If you're on the same channel as others around you, commonly people are on 6, switch it to channel 11. Might help ya.

Also besides trying 2.4 GHz, try to check for interference from other electronics or your neighbor's wifi - see if your phone's wifi works ok at that same spot, and if you have android use wifianalyzer ( https://vremsoftwaredevelopment.github.io/WiFiAnalyzer/ ) or similar.

Just wanted to say I'm having the same issue, also in Seattle.

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Some things like netflix don't seem to be affected (fast.com), but going most places on the internet show <10Mbps, which is unforgivable for a gigabit service.

Most wifi analyzer apps will tell you the 'recommended channel' without you having to choose which one by the lowest dbm, but yeah you would usually choose that way (I would also factor in the fluctuation of it on location here but for this specific instance doesn't sound too terribly important.)

There could still be interference, some of the waves from the wifi could be bouncing back and forth between the wall and the TV causing 'standing waves' which might cause problems. How much clearance do you have between the wall and TV can you move it closer to one or the other? Like flush to the wall or something?

If other devices don't experience this then it's definitely an issue with the way the wifi is propogating on the way to that device.

EDIT: After reading some of your post history I see your also investigating possible malware on this. That could also cause buffering with good speeds because the malware would be eating up cpu cycles that could be better spent on the video.

In my experience modem/router/ap combo devices are mediocre/average at best. You may see a huge performance increase with it in bridged mode and an external higher end router.

I have a feeling since fast.com is reporting proper bandwidth but it pauses then keeps going it might be an error causing resent data instead of slowness/loss of connectivity. Have you tried using any of the QoS settings on the modem to see if they improve stuff, you can also change your wifi aggregation to MSDU if your firestick supports it and see if that helps at all.

Hey, no problem.

They chart is made using grafana grafana

the script is made using my speedtest script. It's written in python, and opens a hidden headless browser using chromedriver and selenium and does a speedtest on fast.com and CenturyLink's own speed test, and writes values to mysql.

I just graph everything with a SQL query I'd happily share.

You just need to install grafana, a mysql server, python, a couple modules, and run a script on cron as often as you'd like to test.

https://howsecureismypassword.net/ When you set a new password, type it in here. It should give you an idea of how good the password is. Tip: a phrase works better e.g. 'the dog is blue'. Hope that helps.

My upload in the last few days dropped to 180mbps max. Of all things before my upload was the most consistent at 800-900. https://www.speedtest.net/result/8291284871.png

Are you paying for gig? You can put these and move the router.
Place one by the ont and the other where u want the gateway.

NETGEAR Powerline adapter Kit, 2000 Mbps Wall-plug, 2 Gigabit Ethernet Ports with Passthrough + Extra Outlet (PLP2000-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0778Y6K6N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_7B71F2X28NXQ2ZE34SGS

Sorry to hear it didn't get fixed, but I have to admit I am not surprised.

You might be best served by buying a wireguard VPN. CenturyLink will see nothing but encrypted UDP packets. The VPN services are very reasonably priced, have a shocking amount of bandwidth, and most of them have excellent peering with Level3. I pay only 2-3ms extra ping time to route all my traffic through Mullvad.

There is no reason to believe a VPN is any more "private" than a regular ISP, but there is every reason to believe they will not tamper with your traffic: you can switch VPN's on a whim, but switching ISPs is a multi-month process if it's even possible at all.

I've resorted to treating my hardline ISP as nothing more than a Layer2 link to the nearest carrier-neutral facility, where I pick one of the VPN providers to be my "real" ISP.

QUIC can't get here fast enough. Middleboxes are the bane of my life...

>https://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-c3000z-C3000Z-Modem-CenturyLink/dp/B07954WDPL scroll (right side of page) to "save with used-very good $115.00 free delivery sep 10-15 and below that "new &used (15) $105.00+$5.99 shipping"

at 3 Mbps down, you're not on bonded service. consider: when you have a non-supported gateway, CTL will not service or support it. CTL will not provide updated firmware.

scroll down to "New and used (19) from $105.00 plus $5.99 shipping"

https://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-c3000z-C3000Z-Modem-CenturyLink/dp/B07954WDPL

If you take a picture if the nid I can tell you which pair to wire to the jack. The first jack you linked will cause a bridge tap so dont use that one. I would use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Tel-Products-AT468-4-Conductor/dp/B005M1YQ98

First pair to red green. Second pair to yellow black.

I have pair bonded DSL internet, with no landline phone. Currently, my 50ft data cable (phone cable) that has a male RJ11 on each end, comes from the NID, about 25 feet on the outside of the house, through a wall, and plugs directly into the back of my C3000A modem. That all fine, it works.

I'm looking to clean up my modem wiring, and want a connection just inside. I'm looking at putting either a wall jack inside, or just a female/ female coupler. If I put in a wall jack, it will be something like this, so I won't need to cut the RJ11 off and hardwire it...

https://amazon.com/dp/B008APMTGK/

If I use just a coupler, it would be something like this...

https://amazon.com/dp/B08HV21XBP/

Let's label the cable from the NID to the inside as "A". The cable from the new jack / coupler to the modem will be "B".

My question is, if I just use a coupler, there's a good chance that the connection would be mirrored at the coupler, so wire A1 will end up being connected to B4 when it goes into the modem. A2 would connect to B3, etc. Will this cause problems with my pair bonded service?

This

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Compatible/dp/B07JRD69V6/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&amp;keywords=cat6+keystone&amp;qid=1627409260&amp;sr=8-5

Are you saying I can get any router like this and just plug the ethernet coming in my wall from the ont and it should work? I don't need to get any sort of authentication info from century link?

They are USB modems (not mifi or phones) soo yes connected by USB, that’s the only way they work.

Depends on the hardware you want to use, simplest would be take an old computer and throw in a 4 port ethernet card plus the onboard NIC. Then use that machine as a router. There’s a decent amount of examples of ways to use Speedify on their blog. Since we aren’t talking about massive speed you might be able to get away with a raspberry pi and a USB 4 ethernet port adapter. You could even do it all with 1 network port and a managed switch with VLans.

Pretty much anyone who could log onto Reddit should be able to setup a Pi NAS after watching a couple youtube videos - it's a lot easier than you think. But it can go sideways quickly, I'll admit that.

Another cheap option would be using a WRT based router with a USB port .. like this one .. just don't forget to disable DHCP and change the IP address

Ubiquiti USG

Netgate pfSense

Both of these support NordVPN. My personal preference is Netgate. pfSense is open source, great communities, and good support backed by Netgate. Ubiquiti is flashy and easy but their support is lacking.

This ^^^^. No filters will cause the exact problem you are describing and the fix is easy to do by yourself. Get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Answering-Machines-Telephones/dp/B003YKG8IQ/ref=asc_df_B003YKG8IQ/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=312217897114&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=7870612842

Something like this is what you need. It has to have an rj11 end. If you have a bonded connection, it has to have two pairs of wires in it.

Here is one:

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-line-Splitter-Noise-Filter/dp/B01258GUCQ/ref=asc_df_B01258GUCQ/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=242045434535&amp;hvpos=&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=170129568403664

Latest and final update: I finally got some free time to install the new cat 6 cable. It's the darn cat5e cable. The new cat 6 cable brings the speed back up to what I would expect: 900s down, 400s up. The WAN connection status shows 1000/1000 now.

In case anyone is curious on the cat 6 cable I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BH3CP9L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_bedZFbY93PN1A?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Greatly appreciate everyone's inputs including the CenturyLink staff on here. Have a good and safe weekend, everyone.

To see if this is potentially caused by wifi interference from other WLANs using the same channel as your AP, you can use your phone. If you have an android phone, try this:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

I am not sure if the same app is available on iOS, but there is probably something comparable if not.

If you open the channel graph, it should show you which channels are in use by which SSIDs. Find the one that your AP is using, and see if there are other networks in the same band that are close to or higher than the signal strength from your AP. If there are, then maybe move to a different SSID. It is possible that when you reboot, if you have your AP set to pick a channel by itself ("auto"), it is just making it pick a better channel. And if your neighbors have their APs set to do the same thing, then maybe the nosedive in bandwidth coincides with their APs switching channels.

Or maybe it is totally unrelated to RF interference, and there is something wrong with your router.

Do you have DSL or fiber internet? If you have DSL, you can have a landline whether your modem has a telephone port or not. All you need is something called a splitter on your phone line. The splitters have ports for the modem and for the telephone line. Here is a link showing a DSL splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/In-line-DSL-Filter-w-Splitter/dp/B003807GK6

So it doesn't matter if the modem has a port for your telephone line.

Yeah, that’s my concern is that if I try to pull the ends off the fiber will either break or the fiber will get dirty. And then I’d be out of internet for a while lol.

I ended up finding out that the ends are sc/apc so I ordered this from amazon to try out: www.amazon.com/dp/B08234L6RS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w0UrFb32Q7T8E

Thanks for the reply. Was on a chat for two hours trying to a new order for a new fiber run by SL, but I should be able to run myself.

>Sorry

No need to be sorry, I had no idea of any of it before I worked for CTL.

>I am not adept when it comes to this field, so by self install I'm assuming you're asking if it was wired by me or a tech, a tech wired it.

A self install means a tech does it to the sni outside your house and then the rest is on you.

>The next question I have is by filtering, where do you want things to be filtered, is this outside or inside and what do you want me to filter using what, be as specific as possible cause im kinda dumb. thank you for the response though

We have filter sleds that we put in the sni that separate the dial tone from the dsl. When the dsl goes to places other than the modem, the signal bounces back on itself and can cause issues. You can also get a filter for each phone jack and it needs to be on every one, not just ones that have phones on them. I don't know if you can buy the ones that go in the SNI, you may need a tech for that. Any tech worth anything though would have installed one if they did the whole install.

Ones like this are an example of what you can use in a jack. But you don't need the ones with the dsl for any jack but the one with the modem. These would be useless if the tech installed one in sni.

Amazon

Walmart

And any hardware store (see Lowes, home depot, menards, Ace hardware etc just ask for a 4pin or 4wire phone jack)

That green phone cord that CenturyLink gives out is essentially just a standard phone cord with a bit of extra shielding. From what I understand, that is really the only difference. You could probably buy one off of Ebay if you want to stick with their brand. Personally, I'd recommend just picking up one of these from Amazon. It's very similar to the green one CenturyLink gives out, but nicer in my opinion. I used that one when I had DSL.

I've been using the ASUS AC3100 for over a year and it's worked well. Had the Centurylink C3000A before and this one works better, the C3000A would drop the wifi once a week or so (sometimes more) and I'd have to restart it. That's happened a few times on the ASUS, but far less. Get full gigabit speeds over wired, and have hit 500-600 Mbps over wifi.

Looks like Amazon (third party seller though) has it for just under $200 now (I bought it at Best Buy for around $230, they still have it for that price now) https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Wireless-AC3100-Gigabit-RT-AC3100/dp/B01707HPKS

Here's the Best Buy link just in case you want it sooner or don't want to use a third party Amazon seller https://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-ac3100-dual-band-wi-fi-router-black/4465000.p?skuId=4465000

Look at the WRT3200ACM it should fit the bill. It's what I'm running with gig here and it supports PPPoE and VLAN tagging on the WAN so you should be good to go. I'm getting 600 up/down. Came from the C3000 as well.

1. People usually choose to get their own routers to be sure about the quality and matching their needs as per used set up or speed. Also, in countries where ISP can be interfering with
   your traffic people choose independent router that will give less control to ISP.

2. All fiber/wired/advanced fiber connections are eventually - Ethernet. It is either Wi-Fi or Ethernet. If its wired - its Ethernet.

3. There is a difference but now a major one. WCB6200Q is just slightly better.

4. Have you asked the manager about it? I would ask CeturyLink just to be sure that you've heard both sides.

5. I guess digging through Youtube might be the way to go. There should be at least few video tutorials on how to get it running properly.

The routers are not always responsible for the issues you have described. I would recommend to checking whether the internet connection gets more stable without NordVPN running. And even if connection becomes better at that time it might be not the issue of VPN but just the set up itself. Sometimes one check mark in the settings area can make a big difference. I would advise to check with their support and let them troubleshoot your system.

I just came from Comcast less than 6 months ago in Oregon.

I was capping out on Comcast for some reason. They "upgraded" my plan when I threatened to leave and I saw at best 50 down/30 up. For over $100 a month. Not renting a modem. I suspect the latter is the reason I was getting throttled down from the "up to 250" I was supposed to get.

Decided to give CL a shot. After a tech almost refused to mount the box on the side of my house, and instead wanted to drop a CAT5e cable from the attic down the side of my visible to the street wall and to a box on the ground-- 120 down / 30 up on a bonded VDSL2 for $75 a month with modem rent.

My only quip so far is that CL has issues with YouTube. I start running Private Internet Access when I'm heavy on YouTube, because my buffering 720p+ issue seems to happen most when I'm doing back to back videos there and that seems to help immensely. Hilarious, right?

If I didn't know any better I'd say the content-throttling of no net neutrality has begun, which is why I left Comcast in the first place in preparation for that shit.

Also, I am approximately 1.7 miles from CL's fiber trunk line that leads to the hub. My DL speeds routinely hit over 10MB/s on Steam downloads, where Comcast would never exceed 7MB/s for any more than a brief fleeting second.

I'm using this in as my router on CL Fiber in Orlando. no need for vlan tagging or pppoe in our area either. No issues getting the full bandwidth on upload/download. I set my Cell Spot as an AP.

Mikrotik hEX RB750Gr3 5-port Ethernet Gigabit Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUMVUB/

What is the difference between a phone cord and a DSL cable? I was thinking of purchasing the 25 Ft cord from Amazon here. Would this one work okay or no? Thanks for the reply and help.

Yes, it would. But something like the Netgear R6700 would be a far better router for just slightly more money.

The R6700 is the one I use with my CenturyLink fiber. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t.7wBbC8CDCE4)

This model right? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ERPOE-5-EdgeRouter-Adapter/dp/B00E77N3WE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

What'd you end up doing for Wifi since it's just a 'pure' Ethernet router?

We absolutely have fiber. I can verify as we have the unit the cable plugs into (which I can see), and then is wired to the modem itself.

In order to reach to my office I'll need another 20-25 feet. So I guess it sounds like I may need to actually have them come out to do it--which may prove impossible. Couldn't I just use this though and purchase additional cable? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MQGRC/ref=asc_df_B0002MQGRC5149941/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=395033&amp;creativeASIN=B0002MQGRC&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=216534554317&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=16631053271517377539&amp;hvpone=&amp;hv...

I've tried to get them to come out, but they won't. They keep saying it's my problem. But clearly it's not.

Interesting note though. Tonight there's a block party. I'm the only neighbor not out, and all of a sudden I'm getting 30-35mbps using Ookla and Fast.com. These are numbers I haven't seen in sometime. Clearly our connection IS impacted by their use unless this is a complete fluke. Are you stating that fiber doesn't work that way?

Thoughts?

PS: I appreciate you chiming in as a CL employee.

Hey, thanks for the awesome reply.

I ordered this last night, do you think that this could increase wifi speeds?

I'll have to check your link from my laptop, it is a bit confusing on mobile.

I finally gave up and replaced it with a Netgear R7000. Now everything works as expected. The Technicolor router was a little bit faster on gigabit, but the Netgear is so much more reliable.

You can retrieve your PPPoE credentials by going to connect.centurylink.com and following the prompts. Then plug those into the Netgear's PPPoE login section, turn on VLAN Tagging, and set the VLAN ID to 201.

I read on a different threat about netgear n300 working quite well. Would this one work? And would I buy just the router or would I need the router and modem combo?

Thanks again!

Asus offers an app for Android that displays real-time traffic on the internet port or on any port with a device attached. It is really handy if you own a Asus router. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.asus.aihome