Just a side note for folks reading this post, rekeying your locks yourself is incredibly simple. A $70 kit from Amazon and a little time is all you need. This is far cheaper than a single visit from a locksmith, and once you have the kit, you can rekey locks for the rest of your life.
For Schlage locks: Schlage 40-134 Pin Kit with Snap-Tight Plastic Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N768/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WaryBbE5EFA44
For Kwikset Locks: Kwikset 236 Kwikset Builders Keying Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NKHKS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jdryBb4C7C9C4
If you need a new key that you can rekey to, go to Lowes or Home Depot and ask them if they can give you a set of new keys (they’ve got boxes of random spare keys for when they rekey locks). To sweeten it for them, buy a few copies of the set they provide so they’re making some money off of it.
Then, just watch some YouTube videos that explain the process. It took me an hour to do all 3 of my locks when I moved in to my home.
Nope, not looking at that. We have a tubshroom, catches a lot. Highly recommend.
Soft close add-on hinges for cabinet doors.
This is all that really matters. All new shower heads come with a little plastic flow restrictor in the neck. Just pull it out and you'll soon have the highest water bill in the neighborhood. As a matter of fact, get two shower heads and then a shower head splitter: https://www.amazon.com/AZOS-Shower-Head-Showering-showerheads-PJSTHS01BN/dp/B07Y7Z684X/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=shower+head+splitter&qid=1624387468&sr=8-5
What you may want to do is also get a ball valve for each shower head. The novelty of draining your hot water tank in record time may prove to be tiresome. With the ball valve, you can adjust the flow as needed. I take out the restrictor and install a ball valve (only one shower head tho). I can get a blast when I want to but most of the time, it's 70% closed to save water/gas/money.
The below is a homeowner's manual created by the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation. I know your Internet speed is dog-slow, so start the download when you get ready to go to sleep.
It covers a lot about the care and feeding of the average Canadian home:
As far as basic books, this manual is pretty comprehensive:
Not to rain on your parade, but keeping up with the battery swap on these sucks. Terrible battery life made me look elsewhere. I finally landed on these for under cabinet lighting:
Cordless Motion Sensor Lights, Megulla 14LED Rechargeable Battery Powered Stick-on Anywhere Portable LED Night Lights for Under Cabinet, Cupboard, Stairs, Closets, Bathrooms, Safes (Cool White, 2Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUJKF3D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FCz8Bb9S3ST9S
A bit pricier than the puck lighting, but no batteries to replace, ever. And they have worked flawlessly for 2 years, so far.
We have an air purifier in the bedroom that makes the perfect amount of white noise, all while cleaning our air while we sleep. I’ll never go back.
GermGuardian AC4100 3-in-1 Desktop Air Purifier, HEPA Filter, UVC Sanitizer, Home Air Cleaner Traps Allergens for Smoke, Odors, Mold, Dust, Germs, Smokers, Pet Dander, Germ Guardian Room Air Purifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G7VNO86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_thQTCbYZ1S59M
What's the model of the microwave?
Edit: Nevermind, googled the part number on the image file and came up with this part replacement for $38.
Edit 2: Even better, $29 from Amazon and Prime Eligible.
Do you have a peephole? If so they make peephole security cameras. Nothing will be mounted on the outside of the door and it won’t be obvious at all.
I know nothing about them to recommend one, but here’s a random example of one:
I got this one from Costco. It's awesome. 3 of them light up to tell you the middle and edges
Toilet I would try this: Zep Acidic Toilet Bowl Cleaner 32... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PDWVGDZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I don’t have advice about the tile, but take things in small chunks and be sure to realize that this didn’t happen in a day and it won’t be cleaned in a day.
You’re getting overwhelmed from trying to do everything at once, instantly. You are only human, give yourself a break. Make a list and pick 1-2 things to do a day.
I will say magic erasers really are magic when it comes to cleaning. You’ve got this. Take a big breath, you did the hardest part already, you acknowledged that there was an issue and you have a plan to address it.
Beyond using scrap wood or 1x2s screwed/clamped down as a guide, you can also buy something like this that's a bit more reusable. This Old House also has a nice method for making your own guide that has proper offsets for both sides of the circular saw base.
I don't know about "new technology" but this is one of the best outdoor investments we made.
The reel turns to any direction, the crank makes it easy to spool back up, and the basket holds your nozzles and accessories. Water is supplied to the spool via a short feeder cable, then you attach your regular hose to the spool.
Don't bother with those stretchy/expanding hoses, not only do they not work well with this kind of reel, they have terrible durability in general.
Those look like footing pads, not brake rotors from a car...
Basically, these. They keep the wood from directly contacting moisture and then rotting. Are they to code? Where is this house?
Actually, I just looked again. They look like brake rotors from a car acting as footing pads. Weird.
Make sure the door doesn't creak when you open and close it and that the door knob isn't noisy when you turn it. it's amazing how babies can sleep through police car sirens and wake up from a turning doorknob.
EDIT to add - we installed a purell dispenser on the wall by the changing table. Did it with command tape so no wall damage and it was so helpful and hands free. link here
I don't think there's anything wrong with your yard. You probably just have trashy neighbors.
How about putting up a couple of (heavy duty) poles and hanging a shade cloth that blocks their view of your yard from the corner there? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Patio-Paradise-12x12x17-Triangle-Canopy-x/dp/B01N0XV0BQ
I have this one and had a nearly identical experience as OP. For $9 I didn't have very high expectations, but the 800+ reviews convinced me to give it a try. Glad I did, too.
I had a piss problem. If the subflooring isnt saturated, then you can use shellac or killz ultimate. If it is, take it down to the rafters, and paint the rafters instead. Shellac requires all windows open.
Only killz ultimate works, the others aren't rated for urine. If there is piss on the floors, it's likely in the floor molding and the bottom section of the drywall. Again, killz it or tear it out.
Do yourself a favor and buy a full face paint mask with organic type respirators before you begin. The urine smell gets 1000x worse in demolition. https://www.amazon.com/3M-7162-Full-Facepiece-Spray-Respirator/dp/B0002STR86/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1543380864&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keyword
Here's one that will work fine.
Here is a breakdown of spec: T25 25W 125-130V E14 CL OVEN
T25 = the shape of the bulb is largely cylindrical on its sides, and 25mm in diameter
25W = as an indicator of brightness and power consumption
125-130V = incandescent bulbs rated slightly higher than the operating voltage they are used on will have longer life, more durability, and warmer color temperature than an incandescent rated at the nominal supply voltage
E14 = the size in mm of the screw-base. US candelablra is E11, US standard is E26/E27, US "intermediate" is E17.
CL = the glass of the bulb is clear
Any bulb with E14 base, that operates on 120v, that is suitable for high temperature, that uses 25W or less, and that fits in the supplied space will be fine.
Kaboom toilet cleaning system.
I have not scrubbed a toilet in six years. Refill with 1 inch pool tabs bought in bulk. I quietly laugh at people who scrub toilets.
I got one one of those a while ago because it's fun, turns out it was really helpful pulling wires through my house (i could see what they were caught on), it was helpful running the bathtub drain under the flood joists, it was helpful rerouting a poorly routed wire through a blind pocket in studs. I even used it to inspect a slow draining pipe (while dry).
That thing is fun and very useful. Buy it.
I’ll do you one better... instead of tiring out your arm using sidewalk chalk sticks, just roll it on with a paint roller... With the sidewalk chalk, they sell for kids a sidewalk chalk that is ground up into a fine dust that you add water to and then the kids “paint” that wet sidewalk chalk on to the ground with paint brushes and rollers. It’s still sidewalk chalk but your applying it like a paint, our kids like playing with that more then the sidewalk chalk sticks. Anyways, buying the powder kind that you paint on to ground is expensive but you can buy 100 sidewalk chalk sticks super cheap. So what we do for our kids is I run over the sidewalk chalk with my car tire to break it up (put it in a ziploc bag before squishing with your car). Then buy a super cheap blender at thrift store or cheapest one from Walmart and use the blender to grind it up into fine dust. It’s more steps but then you can have the paint on version of sidewalk chalk for the same price as regular sidewalk chalk.
This is the chalk “paint” that you can buy that I was referring to as being expensive that is just a fine chalk powder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074FX5W7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H1CiDbBMA8BKA
Or just saw this online you can also get chalk in a spray can form that would be quick to use on fireplace but might not work well as rolling it on with a paint roller. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDYBMYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_w0CiDbQWRR8FR
I’ve have had success with 3M Command Strips. I used them all through college and never had an issue.
That's not atypical. The forced air is seeking the path of least resistance, so more of it will come out of the vents closer to the A/C unit. There is only so much you can do, unfortunately, without having the HVAC company redo some things, but there are a couple of tricks you can try.
One is to partially shut/cover the vents closer to the A/C, in the hope that more cold air will be diverted to the back of the house. Another is to use some fans inside the house, to move the air around.
You can also try installing some register fans, in the back of the house, in the hope of pulling more of the cold air back there. I've never used them, personally, but some people love them; ultimately, I think it depends on the setup of the house and the HVAC system, but for the cost, it might be worth trying. Here's an example, on Amazon:
LOL, You noob! While my offspring is at the magical age of 16 (magical because he can drive his own ass places now instead of pestering me) now instead of 12, I would have been instantly suspicious if he'd asked me to create a "reading room" for him, and he's even a well behaved kid who likes to read.
But I'd probably have done it anyway, as a reward for finding the loophole. The only thing I'd have done differently was I'd have put all the power and lights on a kill switch of some kind that I could operate remotely.
That looks great though. And I laughed out loud at the christmas lights, because every year since he was 10 years old I've been fighting an ongoing war over my christmas tree lights. I'd open the box to trim the tree only to find another set was missing and some other portion of the house was now sporting them.
Some time when you want another one of those "my dad is awesome" hugs, pick her up a couple sets of these. Puck Lights They are battery powered, have no wires and have a remote control to change the colors and intensity. Every tween/teen that has seen them in my son's room thinks they are awesome. Just make sure you actually have her put them up with screws, not the stickers that come on the back. The stickers only work about half the time, and the half the time they DO work, they rip off the drywall paper when they come down. (and I'd rather fill holes than 2"x2" squares.
My wife's parents had slate flooring which was identical to this. She says that her dad used this polish and sealant because both flagstone and slate are porous and absorb things. Here is a link for maintenance she had found before.
And double sided curtain hooks - shaped like a wonky W or omega symbol.
Changing the liner and/or the decorative curtain with these is SO. EASY.
The nozzle design was a change forced upon us by people pouring gas from the can straight onto open fires. Obviously not a great idea, but people do it. The newer design is so that when someone does this, and the flame crawls up the stream towards the can and the user freaks out and either drops/throws/or runs around with it as soon as they quit applying force to keep the nozzle open it will spring shut and keep the flame from going into the can.
That being said, I totally agree the cans sold at big box stores are HORRIBLE. Home depot, walmart, lowes etc... After trying a bunch of different styles I finally found one that is AWESOME that wasn't a $50 steel gas can. Only issue was I had to buy them on amazon as nobody local sells them. Check out the link below and give it a whirl, I promise it's worth buying.
No-Spill 1405 2-1/2-Gallon Poly Gas Can (CARB Compliant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W72GBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_npxExbBPD05DZ
They sell multiple sizes, I have the 1.25gal for my two stroke mix, and a 5 gal for my regular gas (mower, generator, etc).
Yes, it will just take longer to do the same job. There are some pros however. Gas pressure washers go though a lot of gas, and are very loud. So without gas your costs will be lower.
If you are serous about driveways I would recommend this
Got these ones that are regular outlets with additional USB ports. The convenient part is not having to unplug something else in order to charge your phone.
Most convenient location for us was in the kitchen, near our most-used counter.
Yep, the Neo 320, never look back haha
Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jz2iDb8K9DFPZ
I have virtually the same locks that were painted over. You can clear the paint by simply scraping it off or disassembling and dipping in paint stripper. There are two types of keys that work on virtually all locks like this. This kit from amazon has both which should help you determine which to buy more of.
I'm not sure if there is a modern replacement for these but maybe someone else does.
Countertop guy here.
You may not have damaged anything yet.
First clean the entire countertop using StoneTech KlenzAll, Heavy Duty Cleaner
Then let your countertop totally dry. This could take a few days if there areas which have absorbed a lot of moisture, like around the sink and faucet. You can use a heat gun or hair drier to speed up drying around the sink but it still can take quite a long time.
If the entire countertop is uniformly dry and you no longer see a difference between the areas then no damage was done.
I would recommend you seal your entire countertop to help protect it and reduce the chance of the stone absorbing moisture or liquids. StoneTech also makes a great product called Buletproof sealer. If you follow the directions and let it soak in for 20min then do a second coat you should notice a considerable difference in resistance to moisture.
It’s important to note that granite countertops are just polished rock. Basically a hard sponge and even when properly sealed, they will still absorb liquids if left on the surface for longer periods of time. The worst thing you can do is leave a dishwasher matt or cutting board in the same place. The moisture between the countertop surface and the items on top cannot evaporate so the stone WILL absorb that moisture.
This is the kind of thing they’re talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Detector-Wireless-Notification-Security-Basement/dp/B07J9HZ5VN/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=leak+sensor+wifi&qid=1620188324&sprefix=leak+sensor&sr=8-3
Probably an air compressor. Sure it can allow you to use nail guns and pneumatic power tools, paint sprayers, etc... but there's also simple things like inflating tires, air mattresses for guests, and cleaning out keyboards. No shop is complete without one.
Also, a small shop vac. The big ones are nice, but these are great for so many things. One of the best uses is for getting stains out of carpet. One of these with a spray bottle of warm water will get up just about anything.
Not as versatile, but just makes life easier: Kinee Adjustable Wire Stripper. I give these as gifts to every guy I know.
Haven't tried those ones but I've been using these in my rental units and so far so good: https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-7530P8-Universal-Better-Wax-Free/dp/B00R7D35TQ/
Waxless seems the way to go for sure.
I even got sick of my Zircon studfinder's flakiness so I sprung for a $8 magnetic one and I dig it. It does take a lil longer because you need to hit on a screw/metal, but I still grab it before my electric one.
EDIT: This is the one on Amazon, which is not where I purchased it (local HD for me), but same product and price.
CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VYySCbNCT7D0D
Glue, caulk, sand, prime, sand, paint.
Use these 3M sanding sponges to get into all of the grooves.
This is a great video (from a great channel) on how to properly cut and glue crown moldings.
this product on amazon has been my friend for this problem. Also, the garage sale/craigslist posts are good ideas.
Start small, do your homework, think the project through and then just do it! You will definitely make some mistakes, but see it as the price of learning to DIY. Just try and avoid potentially dangerous situations...
Landlord is full of B.S.
/u/intrepidzephyr is 100% correct. That is the waste drain for an under-sink R.O. system. You can use a plug:
For future reference, Termidor works. Find the hole, foam 'em out, and watch corpses pile up over the next week or so. Had some in my garage, didn't even see them so much as the little wood piles. Found the holes, foamed em up, that was that.
The stuff is apparently super deadly, so, you know, murder with caution.
> There are also white noise machines that can help drown out noise...or sleeping with a fan blowing on your face can function the same way.
This. Go get a loud air filter. This is by far the easiest solution.
We have several of these we've been lucky enough to find at Goodwill. They are awesome. You'll only need one for noise. Put it right next to your bed.
Rip out that ugly old CFL spiral and put in a shallower LED flood bulb.
Or, if you use this Westinghouse convertor, you can put any kind of light fixture you like up there! https://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-0101100-Recessed-Light-Converter/dp/B00FGQ19LC
I've used them twice and they work really well. You can put a pendant up there, or a flush fixture.
It is called balancing the system. What you would like to do is to get the cubic feet per minute to be close to equal on all the floors. In the summer, you'd want more to go to the top floor, but it does not need to be a huge difference.
Go buy a cheap anemometer:
Start at the top floor, and measure the flow at the farthest vent from the HVAC. Write down every vent, on every floor. You will find that the downstairs will have much stronger flow than upstairs.
If you have adjustable vents, start closing the ones closest to the HVAC. Not completely. Maybe 25% to 50%. Work your way upstairs. Is the flow much stronger? What you are aiming for is to make the upper floor vents blow equal or slightly stronger than the basement and first floor.
Thoroughly appreciate this helpful explanation. I think I’ve narrowed it down to the lack of sealing between the unit and the frame/casing. I’m looking at foam spray (Great Stuff) but leaning toward something like 1x1” foam insulating strip.
I got some on Amazon. I have to take them out and charge them occasionally. 100% worth it
Edit: Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXM2C6F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_1.NyFbVRMVPAT
$31 for 3, they charge pretty quickly, were easy to put up, and I bought them nearly 2 years ago. So far very happy!
Everyone frothing over habitability issues and the dangers of mold in the comments need to chill a bit. Look at the thick layer of dust on the window frame and the black grime in the tracks. The windows are dirty.
The ventilation is kind of crappy. Based on the photo provided, this is nothing a good, deep cleaning can't handle. Granted, I'd expect the landlord to have the place scrubbed in detail before you moved in but now you're here and you can choose to be a squeaky wheel or you can keep move-in photos for later and put in a little elbow grease for now.
First, get yourself some mold cleaner like this stuff. Just plain bleach won't quite cut it. Give all the crud a good soak. Watch exposing your skin as this stuff will burn.
Then, get yourself a spray bottle with some diluted bleach and go over it again.
Finally, bust out the cleaners, paper towels, scrubbing pads, etc, and go through every nook and cranny you can find. I'm particularly a big fan of cleaning the tracks the window is in and then using some grease or garage door lubricant in the tracks to get the windows to open and close as if they were brand new.
Once everything is deep cleaned you might want to go over the problematic areas by the window with some mold cleaner and bleach again.
After everything is all good and clean, make sure you keep the bathroom well ventilated during and after showering. Clean regularly. If you start to spot a bit of growth again, have at it with a bit more mold cleaner, bleach, and/or regular cleaner. Dirt and mold like what has accumulated in your picture is a result of inadequate regular cleaning. If you clean it now and again 2 years from now it's going to look just as bad as it does today.
A ceiling fan? They do not require any attic space and wires can be run along the stud cavity. If you plan to diy make sure you get the fan electical box that mounts directly to the stud. Example
Before we moved in, I hired a forensic cleaning company to completely clean sanitize the whole house. (Well, except for the basement.) Being able to move into a perfectly clean house where I didn't have to worry about my then-infant daughter touching something nasty was a huge help.
Installing bidets on the toilets in the house was a big hygiene improvement, especially for my daughter.
Epoxy coating the garage floor has saved tons of time in spill cleanups.
Get a shower curtain with a 90° bend in it
Shower Curtain 90°
They are the best!
Do yourselves a favor and buy this camera. It allows you to get into incredible small spaces and see what's behind them. I just bought a new house and I've used it like 15 times already. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C9C6P5D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A big improvement for us was upgrading our outdoor space.
This company makes quality U.S. made fire pits.
https://www.amazon.com/Ohio-Flame-Diameter-Natural-Finish/dp/B009SD2KIK. Our guests always comment on ours.
Also hanging commercial-grade patio string lights. Probably $50-$100 and 2-4 hours depending if you have to run guide wire acorss the yard. https://www.blueistyleblog.com/2015/07/HowToHangStringLights.html. I recommend putting them on a dimmer.
Outlets are a source of air loss. Last winter, I went to plug something into a kitchen outlet, and felt a draft coming through the outlet.
I spent $15 on outlet gaskets and sealed up every outlet in the house. caulking window gaps and blankets also help!
Do it up real nice for some quality poop time. Get a ~~$40~~ washlet/bidet kit from Amazon, a squatty potty, poo~pourri...hell, spring for some ambient string lights and a little zen water fountain.
Happy Black Friday, the Luxe Bidet is $25 today.
As others have noted, you need something for the knocker to strike on. In a pinch, you can get some kind of pretty brass drawer knob. You probably don't want to have the knob bolt go all the way through the door, so drill a hole and use a threaded insert and just use a threaded rod rather than a bolt.
After experiencing a leaky dishwasher and sink drain pipe, I installed a wirelessly controlled main water line valve and wireless water sensors.
The valve automatically closes if water is detected by any of the sensors. The water sensors have been installed in the laundry room, all the bathrooms, the kitchen, and in the utility room near the water heater. I rigged each water sensor with an extension cable to cover a larger area. It won’t prevent a leak, but should reduce the water damage. I also get text notifications if there’s a leak.
Honeywell RWD80/A1 Water Defense Water Sensing Alarm Extension Cable
I advocate heavily against buying devices (light bulbs, garage door openers, etc) that are designed specifically to work with these smarthome services directly. Instead buy into an established framework like insteon or zwave and add on a hub that works with Alexa/Google/Apple or whatever else comes out next month.
That service or technology might change or go out of business. Garage door openers should last 20 years. What will happen to Alexa in that time frame? Will the API change breaking compatibility with older devices? Will Amazon start charging a subscription premium that you don't want to pay for any more?
Instead, buy a "smart" contact closure switch and figure out how to interface that with your smarthome platform of choice (homekit, alexa, googlehome, etc). A dry contact switch will simulate what happens when you press the garage door open button that's mounted on the wall and it can can be made to work with any type of smart home service.
Take either of those technologies (zwave or insteon) and search for how to interface it with alexa. There are a large number of solutions out there depending on your needs. The good news is that you are investing in a platform that you can expand on that is not specifically tied to Amazon - you could easily control the same hardware with HomeKit or Google Home or whatever next month's flavor is.
You might consider reading “The Confident House Hunter” by Dylan Chalk.
While it’s aimed at folks buying already-built homes, it taught me a lot about what makes a house easy to maintain and less likely to have issues with water or weather damage.
For example, a house with a simple roofline will tend to stay more water tight since there are fewer joints and odd angles where water and debris can collect and rot. And a roof with wide overhangs will shield the siding and windows from weather, giving them a much longer life and helping to prevent rot.
Thank me later. It's what the pros use. Also the little handheld version for tight corners if you have them.
Source: Was pro before I broke my back last year. If you use an acidic cleaner be sure to tape off/mask any stainless appliances prior to cleaning. Usually you can get T&G cleaned for about $0.50sqft so it's very affordable to hire it out as well, unless you just really like hard work. And if you have carpet, you can usually get a good deal having it done same day because they won't have set up, break down, and travel expenses again. Regardless, either have it sealed or seal it yourself afterwards.
Has really in depth things but also relatively basic things. I love this book.
I have raised chickens for many years. Chickens are the closet thing we'll ever get to miniature velociraptors. They are savage hunters and will most definitely eat mice.
I also live in the middle of a 300 acre wheat field so I know a thing or two about dealing with mice. These are the best style mouse traps. Little dab of peanut butter in the reservoir is all it takes. It's almost impossible to get the bait without setting them off, they work great.
Not OP, but they make light bulbs with motion sensors. Simple as screwing it in.
Motion Sensor Light Bulbs, Aukora 12W (100-Watt Equivalent) E26 Motion Activated Dusk to Dawn Security Light Bulb Outdoor/Indoor for Front Door Porch Garage Basement Hallway Closet(Cold White 2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXMF23S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0.AVDbS6HC541
Not sure how far you're trying to investigate into the matter but there are non-contact voltage detectors, if you don't already have a DMM it's an item that will pay for itself if you're a DIY type:
(just a decently reviewed decent priced example not a recommendation)
Per request here is the picture of the fan: http://imgur.com/gallery/ENckcBP.
Here is a link to the fan:.
Price has come down a bit it appears... Still a ridiculous deal we got.
EDIT: ours is the 72 inch version so it appears the price is still right around $950
For two weeks? Water them well (in the bathtub, letting them sit for a while in an inch of water), put a bit of water in their trays, and pull them back from windows. Honestly I forget mine for longer than that pretty frequently and they’re never a problem. If you have any you’re worried about due to smaller clay pots, you can get these for pretty cheap.
I would never power wash an AC system, too easy to damage the fins on the the coils as they are very thin and delicate, not to mention the electrical and electronics.
I assume the mold is on the inside potion of the system? They make cleaners for AC systems, they are usually foaming and a good start, you can gently rinse it out with a spray bottle lklok
follow up with a more traditional mold remedy for pice of mind.
If this is the outside portion of the system I would not worry about that, the outside section is usually sealed off from the inside portion other than a small condensate drain path.
Truth is a new unit will likely only be mold free initially, by their nature they are prime places for mold, so if you are sensitive you'll want to learn how run them properly and to clean them safely anyway.
I’m not exactly sure what you’re trying to accomplish. But you could swap your glory hole for something that looks like a butt hole. I used this item when finishing out my networking cabinet.
Exactly that. A Sawzall with a scrapper blade rather than a saw blade. Something like this:
-Available outlets for chargers.
-Available surface space (table, desk, dresser) for small personal items.
-Available drawer space.
-Available closet space with hangers.
Basically, be like a hotel. Get one or two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Mabel-Home-Metal-Folding-Luggage/dp/B07B27SLMZ. Resist the urge to fill your guest room with decorative objects that displace your guests and their belongings.
Not sure if your chair has caster wheels or not. If it does - these are specifically designed to solve your problem. It replaces the plastic crap that comes with your chair with a soft rollerblade wheel. I had this problem and this worked for me.
Office Chair Caster Wheels (Set of 5) - Heavy Duty & Safe for All Floors Including Hardwood - Perfect Replacement for Desk Floor Mat - Rollerblade Style w/ Universal Fit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTIG4GE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7LRKAbH9DYN54
(Pardon the raw link)
Edit: maybe this will help too - "EZ FAUX DECOR Instant Venetian Gold/Santa Cecilia Marble Granite Countertop Film Self Adhesive Vinyl Laminate Counter Top Peel and Stick NOT Contact Paper (36" x 240")"
This is one of my favorites
It has different setting for vegetative or flowering growth, a timer (that I don't use), and a clip (that I do use), and it's pretty cheap. Right now I have it providing growth to an orchid and an adonsaii vine.
I've gone through a few stud finders and settled on the fact that stud finders just don't work very well.
Then I bought this and the same magnetic stud finder as backup. It changed my mind, it's damn near 100% consistent.
Look for any sharp peaks if the room is otherwise quiet. A quiet room on a spectral analyzer (like Spectroid) is going to be a flat or gently curved line, or a continuous color on the waterfall. The waterfall view might help you here because you'll see a line show up.
My guess: a three-phase transformer in the building's basement. These get old and dry out, and vibrate at high frequency sometimes.
The Franklin ones have been a life changer for me, they even work with my lath and plaster walls. It has multiple lights so it shows you the while width of the stud.
I still prefer graph paper and drawing templates. I can draw out a new home or a reno much faster than I can with any software I've used. Plus drawing things out on paper is a more pleasing experience to me.
This is coming from someone who is a system/network admin and is very familiar with using computers/software. It also helps that I took a drafting class back when I was in high school.
This will detect a leak and shut off the water to the toilet. A bit pricey but just for OP to see the idea
Good post, let me add a few things or emphasis a few things.
Careful when purchasing, you may or may not want "Wet look." It also isn't a "penetrating" sealer and won't resist stains from sitting water/oils as well but maybe you can use it after using penetrating sealer? I'm guessing "Wet look" is a gloss and may make the floors more slippery, but don't know from personal experience. This is just a personal choice of how you want it to look.
My buddy is a designer at a natural stone warehouse that serves mostly commercial development. He recommended "Miracle Sealants." The "Stone, tile, grout" is good for grout or soft stone like flagstone or slate. 511 is good for less porous stones.
First, mop the floors with ONLY WATER until you stop getting dirt. If you need a deeper clean or to remove a finish, use a natural stone cleaner.
Most stains can be gotten up by taking a damp towel and setting it on the stain for 15 minutes. Otherwise, use a natural stone remover product. I have had good luck with this one: Amazon Link
Really make sure you avoid acids and bases like bleach, vinegar or anything "citrus!"
When applying, wait about 2 minutes and reapply to areas that dried fast, so that it's all "wet". Some areas of the stone are going to be more "thirsty" than other areas. Don't go overboard applying it (no puddles). Your goal is for it to cover the stone so it looks damp, and for it to dry evenly over a period of ~15 minutes. Depending if it's new stone or neglected, you will have to do multiple coats until it drys evenly.
It’s their job to clean up, so lean on them hard to do a good job. But it’s probably worth your while to pick up one of these to scan for nails once they’ve left. It’ll pay for itself if it avoids one flat tire. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWP1S72/
>I hate traveling now
I got a travel bidet, because let’s face it, hotels often have cheap toilet paper, which makes not having a bidet so much worse!
I threw my normal stud finder out after I bought this magnetic stud finder.
Cheap and reliable.
I use THIS once a year to clean my dryer vent.
I use an 18v Makita cordless drill to power it. My vent is long, I actually have two of the kits linked above to make it all the way outside. I also have a 12v DeWalt drill, but it doesn't have the guts to spin the brushes.
After doing that, then I do two things to my dryer, which is a Speed Queen:
Run the vacuum as far up the dryer's exhaust vent as I can.
Take the bottom panel off the front of the dryer and vacuum the entire interior.
Generally speaking, the time a load takes to dry decreases by nearly 5 minutes after doing this each year.
This is definitely something an average homeowner can do. It is also, arguably, one of the most important fire safety measures you can take, outside of having smoke detectors.
Also, get some leak alarms
It's just a battery connected to a siren with a gap in the wire. If water connects the wire ends then the alarm sounds. You can put them anywhere you are concerned about. I've got one near the top of the sump pump well, one in the opposite corner of the basement, and one under my dishwasher (I had a bad dishwasher experience).
I check them every couple years to ensure the battery isn't too old. But otherwise they are set and forget.
I recently installed these in a remodel. They are great.
Google 'outlet tester'. It's a tool you can plug into an outlet and it has different light outputs to let you know if it's wired correctly or not.
I would actually recommend a kit, something like in this link, it has a multimeter, an outlet tester, and a voltage tester (or what I would like to call a magic wand, basically hold it up to a wire and it will tell you if the wire is hot or not). This is a good kit if you do simple electrical work throughout the house.
That looks like a copy of the Franklin. Probably does work well, but they also make a more compact version that's cheaper, and I don't feel like I really need like 8 leds personally.
You do still have to go back and forth a bit to zero in, but I've found it to be pretty accurate.
Well that minwax is shit, too. You're going to end up redoing this is very short order... You should research quality floor finishes.
Those are brush fibers. Which isn't a great sign either. Is this a professional flooring guy or a handyman....
Edit... See Amazon reviews...https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-130250000-Fast-Drying-Polyurethane-Floors/dp/B002HDJQ3U
Then look at the other comparable products.
I bought an electrician’s fish tape and attached my endoscope to that with tape. Makes it more rigid so you can jam it around the ridges in those drain pipes.
I agreed with everything up until the Nature's Miracle.
I have 7 cats and foster strays while they are waiting to be spayed. We have a back spare bedroom dedicated to these strays and needless to say, We have dealt with cat spraying and urine marking for a long, very long time. NM does not do the job.
I strongly suggest Rocco & Roxie enzyme cleaner.
With Nature's Miracle we had to replace the carpet 2 times in that room.
With Rocco & Roxie --- never had to replace at all.
So the first part of your explanation is spot on.
But I would say use R&R for treatment.
I'm just going to add in this bit of advice... You can get a moisture meter for around $15 (https://amazon.com/Proster-Moisture-Handheld-Detector-Measuring/dp/B01MV3PSF6) and they're super useful to have for tracking leak and moisture issues.
This guy is spot-fucking-on. Do not buy or rent a pressure washer for this, it's complete overkill.
Bleach+water mixture in the spray canister they linked is perfect. Instead of a scrub brush, I'd recommend getting a gutter blaster of some sort. My local Aldi was selling one similar to this a few weeks ago. It's like a mini pressure washer.
Just make sure you wear eye protection when spraying your house down with the bleach/water mixture. If it's windy it can sprayback into you. Wear white clothes or clothes you don't mind getting bleach on. But this is 100% the way to go, just cleaned my house the same way and the bleach just eats that mold right off. Super super easy.
This right here ��
Energy audits are the first place to start $100-$200
Also You also never want to power ventilate an attic.
It will just suck your conditioned air out of your house. Passive vents are find.
As for the New AC unit, make sure it came with a hard start hooked up to it. Those things are lifesavers for your ac. Instead of pulling 50-69amps at start up it is a lot lower like 20-30 amps. Reduces amp draw by up to 50%. Saves wear and tear on the ac. Y
CPS 5-2-1 CSRU1 Compressor Saver for 1 to 3 Ton Units https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FNMADE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_45OLDb51E776H
You will need to size it to your AC unit. Super easy to install. Also look into getting a backup capacitor for you unit. It will be nice to have if you unit goes out.(most likely cause of AC not working if the unit was installed correctly)
I put a Y on the hose spigot with individual isolation valves for each of the two parts. Garden hose is attached to one, misters are attached to the second.
Basically, yes, it’s permanently attached, but I ran it directly up from the wall in a corner so it’s as out of the way & discrete as I could’ve done it.
Link is below, it’s not the nicest mister system, aesthetically at least, but it works awesome & for the price it makes a huge difference.
These traps work really well for me:
Dr. Killigan's Premium Pantry Moth Traps with Pheromone Attractant | Safe, Non-Toxic with No Insecticides | Organic (6, Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1SMPBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HxOaDb0PEASSQ
Occupancy sensor (automatic light switch) in the basement, laundry, and walk-in closets. We got these Lutron models from Amazon for $20. Set them to 1 or 2 minutes for the closets, a little more for the laundry, and whatever works for you for the basement. Not having to reach for the light switch with your hands full is really convenient.
Huepar on Amazon
Green laser eats AA batteries, but i have used it outdoors during daylight on fences and gravity sewer lines with success. Turn off the plane you aren't using to save 50% power draw. I would NOT bother with red lasers unless you always work indoors after the building is weathered in.
I have used this $27 test kit from Amazon where you mail in your sample. You can include $15 for each additional sample you mail in as well. They called me & emailed me the results about 48 hours after they got the box, very happy with the service.
I mean you could but I would caution against a power washer INSIDE a house. Water control could get out of hand. One of these thou: