Yes.
Much better would be to get a 5 port switch, effectively a multiway adapter for Ethernet such as this one. Doesn't matter where exactly it goes, as long as the Router, PC and Steam Link are on the "tree" of connections somewhere it'll work fine, plus no noticeable lag, plus the leads can be very very long.
setting up a VM, or converting a secondary computer are some great ways to ease into Linux use.
it's come a long way over the last 8-10 years. last time i played with a version, i really liked Kubuntu. but you should explore the differences on your own, to help get a feel for them.
>If there was a way to get Google music to play and be controlled remote from the computer it would be awesome.
This might be something for you: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.marshallofsound.gpmdp.remote
This is probably a very obvious question, but your switch is not limited to 10mbps right? Can you reacher higher speeds when using something like www.speedtest.net assuming your internet connection is higher than 10mbps (not that your internet matters for the Link, just to test).
Is it a simple dumb switch? Nothing happening on there that might affect your speed?
some good info on this can also be found here: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/what-is-half-duplex-and-full-duplex-operation-and-how-does-it-affect-your-router/
full-duplex wireless has been developed btw, but its not available to the public I believe.
https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=9772-WHJM-4676
Not a supported controller, YMMV, you can try with VirtualHere
I tried to flash with balenaEtcher and with the official Raspberry pi Imager. The image won't boot.
On the Buster OS, there is no package for Steamlink. After the update, the command sudo apt install steamlink
will result with the message "no package found".I tried to manually add a source to the packages and run install. Which will install the Steamlink but not the drivers needed. Also, I tried to fix this problem but had no luck (or skill,Ii did not find the final fix).
>Can I adjust my settings for better performance quality? > >Yes. There is an advanced settings menu option that allows you to tune streaming resolution and bitrate for the best experience on your setup. Over a 5 GHz network, our target is 1080p at 60 FPS with good quality for most scenes. If you have a powerful gaming rig, wired network, and a very good client device, it's possible to stream at 4K 60 FPS.
https://store.steampowered.com/steamlink/about
I'm guessing this means the limit is 60FPS. It's not 100% clear tho.
I'm just going off of what I glanced at yesterday, but it would appear that Steam will be (as of May 21) releasing a Steam Link app for Android and iOS. This would allow streaming games to a handheld device.
Edit: Yes, PC to portable devices via the Steam Link app. https://store.steampowered.com/steamlink/about
Alright, so Outer Worlds is a bit of an oddity; initially anytime I would try to launch it from Steam it would crash to desktop after the "Press any key" screen, presumably it wasn't able to authenticate to the Xbox servers and would halt. I ended up finding some reddit thread that I can't find right now that suggested removing The Outer Worlds from my Microsoft account permissions settings, then launching and re-enabling them. Now not only do I not have any issue playing through Steam Link with a controller, I can use the overlay as well. Settings here and here. Just make sure your Xbox app is already running.
For most if not all other games I've tried with XGP, unchecking "Enable overlay" and "Use Desktop-Config" options in GloSC and "Allow Desktop Configuration in Launcher" and "Enable Overlay in Non-Steam Game" in Steam under *Game*->Manage Shortcut->Controller Options-> has typically ended up being the magic combination. Let me know if this doesn't work out for you and I can try some more experimenting.
I've been looking into alternative streaming to the Steamlink, and come across this, https://moonlight-stream.org/
I do believe you need an Nvidia GPU, but it streams outside of Steam, so all game launchers are treated as equal AFAIK.
Xbox Core Controller - Robot White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DF26MXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_i_9TN6AS2V1E2FZB0BY8HX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This one connects to ios but does not work with steam link apparentlyn
They are all called Xbox Wireless Controller. What you want is the 1708 model for the One S/X released 2016-2020, like this one. You do not want the older one as it lacks bluetooth and you do not want the newer one (for Series S/X) as no device has full support for it yet.
Use Big picture mode or playnite. I prefer playnite because you can add your games from steam, epic games store, ubisoft and etc. All into one launcher plus it has a fullscreen mode with a couple of themes to change up the look. Something I will recommend purchasing (if you got $20) is a mini keyboard with touchpad like this. I'm sure you can find a better one but that's the one I use. it's not the greatest keyboard touchpad experience but imo it's much more preferable than having a mouse and a keyboard on the floor and having to get up everytime something takes you out fullscreen mode. It's very convenient.
TBH, I don't recall what type of batteries they take--I assume either AA or AAA. I bought one of those cheap Nyko charging kits at Costco when the XBox One was first released (years ago). The kit came with rechargeable batteries and I've used those ever since. When I got a One S controller the battery and cover fit so I use it for both the old style & new. There are other, similar charging kits on Amazon--I'm not sure which is the best. The one I have has been adequate.
Since steam stopped selling them and blew out old stock for $2.50 USD the price has skyrocketed everywhere.
1 euro would be an awesome price. Where is here and do they ship to the USA?
Guessing germany (maybe austria?) current price used on amazon .de is 40 euros: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01J4JU4Y4/
ebay.de used "buy it now" 30 euros: https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_nkw=steamlink&_dcat=187&rt=nc&LH_ItemCondition=4000
Samsung 2017 TV owner here. Bought an 8BitDo off amazon and plugged it into my TV and it works like a charm. I use my PS4 controller, but the pairing process is super easy and identical. Link to the exact one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786JC6VW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZFIlDb0SHTTSR
Side note: Haven’t bothered to try and look into it, but when I end remote play, I get an odd green band across the bottom 1/16th of the screen. That goes away with a power cycle and I think is just some kind of odd artifact in the UI.
The download speed just shows you how many bits got through successfully per second. There could have been some bits that didn't make it through and were resent. That's ok for downloading a file or streaming a movie, but not so good for low latency data. Each resend adds latency since the data has to be determined to have been lost and then resent, effectively more than doubling the time to send that piece of data.
Since there's only two or three other networks nearby you might be able to find an open channel. If you have an Android device, Wifi Analyzer is a good app for determining what Wifi is around you. See what channels your neighbors are using and try to have your network on a channel that doesn't overlap.
If both your PC and Steam Link have wired internet connections try chaining them together via a switch instead of connecting them both to your router. Visual aid of how mine is set up.
And here's a cheap 5 port one similar to what I use in my setup. https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/
I don't think the app can do this, but it's not too hard to set up.
https://lifehacker.com/rule-your-computer-from-afar-by-setting-up-wake-on-lan-5786791
I had mine set up pretty similar but used this app; https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.uk.mrwebb.wakeonlan
I use remote mouse on my phone and Steam Link (without video) for games.
This one is the same brand I use but also has usb ROFAVEZCO 4K HDMI KVM Extender USB Uncompressed 4K 60Hz HDR Single over Cat5e/6 up to 300ft, 3 Ports USB2.0 Hub POE+RS232+EDID+3.5mm Stereo Audio and Microphone, EX70H2KVM https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HRL7WM7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VR0REVXQR5TNW4QBHR8M
It doesn't say why on Amazon but it must have to do with a driver issue or something similar.
Is it recognised by Android once paired?
Can you use it to move around the home screen (Y selects.)
This Gamepad Tester app on Google Play is great for checking what buttons and axes an Android device actually sees.
Does it work at all for Streaming (like Big Picture Mode) but not in actual games (like another user just posted)?
I've run a 50ft active fibre HDMI cable to my tv from my pc and seems pretty good, not real tech savvy but it's been working really well for the games I've been playing with no lag
This is the cable I got but longer if you wanna give it a try
My wife uses these adhesive clips/hooks on the walls for me to run wires I haven’t put through walls yet (laziness 🤣) so you could try to use those along the walls and around doorways.
Through a doorway is tricky but if you can wedge it under the door trim you should be able to pass it through (unless it’s a metal door frame).
This is what I bought to solve this exact issue 4K HDMI splitter extender 1 in 2... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B092CP31S8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Using Ethernet cable just because with that I can remove the ends and push the cable through small drilled holes, as it needed to go around the outside of the house, and then reattach the ends.
The optical HDMI will likely be just as good if you have the ability to route it.
if you have the 8Bitdo SN30Pro+ or Pro 2 gamepad, the mobile game clip is pretty nice.
8Bitdo Mobile Gaming Clip for Pro 2 & SN30Pro+
I have used it for both Steam and PS5 and have had no issues. The only downside is that because of the positions of the volume down button on the iPhone 13 I can't have my phone perfectly centered in the clip or it'll be pushing down that button. It has to sit slightly to the right, which isn't a huge deal.
You've told us a lot of information minus the most important bits: which tablet, which controller. This sounds like an issue either with the controller, the mode the controller is set to, or possibly the tablet. So that makes it much harder to help you.
There's a really useful app Gamepad Tester which will tell you what Gamepad is actually sending to the tablet. The Gamepad should be sending joystick axis controls and buttons, it shouldn't be sending keyboard buttons etc. If it's ever sending any keyboard type buttons, the Gamepad is in the wrong mode, so check the manual to find out how to put it in the right mode (for IPEGA this is usually something like HOME+X to put it into PC mode -- you do not want it in Direct mode.)
Once you've solved that, and are still having issues, have you checked/set up the controller mappings in the SteamLink app?
This is what I purchased that hit all the marks I needed to run steam link.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KC3TDYP
Inexpensive, 4k output, Bluetooth and gigabit Ethernet.
I have run into a few hang ups, particularly around a usb wired headset. It has a 3.5 mm headphone jack that works great but I am not 100% on if it works with a microphone.
I did get a warning when first setting it up with the steam link software that it not a recommend type of device as it’s not known to valve to be compatible. But honestly it’s been working great.
No need to be super techy to set up a RetroPie. Their documentation is pretty straightforward and most of the techy stuff is done for you at installation.
Check https://retropie.org.uk/docs/First-Installation/ for example on Joe to install on a Raspberry Pi.
I have used f.lux for many years on all my computers, I love it.
Having said that, it's got some limitations. Ever notice that when you take screenshots of Steam games when f.lux is active, the screenshots don't have a warm colour temperature? f.lux doesn't have that kind of all-encompassing low-level control.
Sure, it would be nice if the colour temperature control from f.lux applied to Steam streaming as well. I don't think it'll happen anytime soon and that certainly isn't Valve or Steam Link's fault, nor is it any form of false advertising.
I could well be wrong but I suspect even if Windows 10 and macOS adopt native bluelight reduction, it won't work for remote video streaming. It would be nice though.
The f.lux FAQ itself says that it generally does not work for remote desktop: https://justgetflux.com/faq.html
Basically Steam launches Origin with overlay which launches ME in the same contet, and then you'll get the overlay working in ME. Once it works in ME, you should see a lot better performance when streaming on the link.
It works on this this Android version of netcat too with the command: nc -luk 27036
Additionally, the above Android app displays the source IP and port number the packet is from.
Anyone else reading this, if you've a Linux/UNIX type device and you can get admin privileges then you can run: sudo tcpdump udp port 27036
Thanks for your detailed answer, so long story short I should probably get this controller? Never used an Xbox one but it looks pretty sick and i'm willing to try it out. I use an ethernet cable for my TV anyway so thats not a problem. Thanks alot!
So you think playing Monster hunter rise on my TV with this controller and just steam link would work yeah?
Problem here is when you use NordVPN, you are no longer routing traffic through your home network, but tunnelling to a remote server in god knows where. Best option is to disable Nord when using Steam link to ensure you're getting all your bandwidth, and reducing latency by only moving data through your home router instead of over 1000's miles to Nord and back.
Got it working with this version on apkmirror. You need the "armeabi-v7a" version or just arm7 as you'll sometime see it.
Now I just need someone to tell me what the best controller is to use with it.
Disabling NordVPN fixed the issue for sure. It's so bizzare as I had it set up identically to the previous PC - only enabled for Chrome and the torrent client.
So you reckon split tunnelling, specifically is the culprit?
You need Steam installed on the host (running the game) and client (the one you're sitting at). You can then run games from the host PC. https://lifehacker.com/how-to-setup-steam-in-home-streaming-and-fix-its-quirks-1579996803
For games on GOG, EGS, Itch.io and most other storefronts most of other storefronts you can just add a shortcut to them on Steam and stream just like native Steam games. Games from some storefronts do not work well with Steam, namely EA, Ubisoft and MS Store/Game Pass. For these, if you have a Nvidia GPU on your PC. Moonlight is a good solution.
I tried various things but none of them really worked. I then got this 4K HDMI splitter extender 1 in 2 out over cat5/6, 4K 60Hz (4:4:4 8bit) Extender Over Ethernet up to 50m/165ft.HDCP2.2/PoE/EDID Management 5.1/7.1CH, Two-way IR Down scaling from 4K to1080P https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B092CP31S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X8H2PXJ4G265NNFPJGZF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 which works perfectly.
It does of course require running a dedicated cable end to end which may be difficult but the effort is worthwhile.
Found a listing but its not being sold right now not sure why. I tweeted them maybe they'll give an answer.
https://www.amazon.com/Retro-Bit-Tribute64-2-4-Wireless-Controller/dp/B091QVBN73
Man thats so sad its not there anymore. I'm not sure why at all. Weird... the other next best options is the Brawler. More comfortable in the hands by a tad but less features. Still worth looking into though. I have no idea what happened to the listing on the wireless Tribute 64 though sorry. =(
check this list for games you love.
https://pcgamingwiki.com/wiki/List_of_Local_Multiplayer_Games
I'd personally recommed Serious Sam Fusion, Resident Evil Revelations 2 (5 with mod and 6), EDF4.1, Goat Simulator (loads of fun just from exploring with frieds, it's sandbox game), Left 4 Dead 2 has mod for hassle-free split screen in steam workshop, Obscure 1-2, Rocket League, Turok 2, Quake 3 has mod, Unreal Tournament 3 with foxmod, Painkiller HD, Divinity Original Sin, CoD Black Ops 3 (has split screen in MP, SP and Zombies), Ben and Ed Blood Party.
Not sure why you are saying this. From theor site: https://store.steampowered.com/steamlink/about/
“If you have a powerful gaming rig, wired network, and a very good client device, it's possible to stream at 4K 60 FPS.”
The Shield runs Android so you'd get the app, which can go up to 4K but I believe 60 fps is the max. I checked the Steam Link app page on Steam's website and all they talk about is 60 fps:
https://store.steampowered.com/steamlink/about
>Can I adjust my settings for better performance quality?
>
>Yes. There is an advanced settings menu option that allows you to tune streaming resolution and bitrate for the best experience on your setup. Over a 5 GHz network, our target is 1080p at 60 FPS with good quality for most scenes. If you have a powerful gaming rig, wired network, and a very good client device, it's possible to stream at 4K 60 FPS.
​
Yeah, 15$. And I'm sure it would be worth it, if I could get it to work. It works on a PS3 and people got them working directly with PCs and Macs and raspberry pis, so I taught this should also work on the link. https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/20/gasia-controller-support/3
I'm curious too. My TV does native 1080p120hz so I'd be curious if that works as well. Hopefully they can get HDR working too since I saw someone else mention that it is apparently supported.
Try installing VB Cable. Don't do anything with it, just install it and then set your default output device back to whatever you normally use.
http://steamcommunity.com/app/353380/discussions/0/133259956006002347/
Try installing VB-Audio Virtual Cable: http://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/index.htm
It works as virtual audio source, and the Steam Link will always use it when it's installed instead of whatever you normally use. Just make sure it's not set as the default device outside of streaming, or you won't get any audio locally.
Not entirely sure what the OPs problem is but it might be worth a shot for that too.
I've already posted this suggestion in a similar thread. Probably the issue has nothing to do with audio drivers if you have sound on your pc. Check Steam Link audio settings. Also try to use virtual cable if changing of settings doesn't work. http://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/index.htm It creates a fake audio device which you should activate before using steam link. You can configure your speaker setup in Windows sound devices. It solved my problems for 5.1 sound when Steam Link is connected to AV reciever so i think it is worth a try.
Try to use virtual cable. http://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/index.htm It creates a fake audio device which you should activate before using steam link. You can configure your speaker setup in Windows sound devices. It solved my problems for 5.1 sound when Steam Link is connected to AV reciever so i think it is worth a try.
People will say Steam but it doesn't come any where near as good as Moonlight Game Streaming.
Open source and completely free, it utilises NVidias game streaming to output to your other devices... phones, consoles and other PC's
Works flawlessly with all games to my knowledge, super easy setup and works best in all circumstances.
You can stream it wirelessly and will get better detail depending on network but I have used it for years and its been great.
It's in very early testing and I do not think this is possible yet.
Project here:
https://github.com/mariotaku/moonlight-tv
Discord discussion and support here:
https://moonlight-stream.org/discord
Join the WebOS channel.
You may also check if the shield system would work well by using its free implementation called moonlight : https://moonlight-stream.org/
It can stream to a pi, although i think it is a bit limited by the pi architecture. YMMV.
I use it to play from a crappy laptop, with my computer 200 miles away, and it works very well as long as you got fiber. It works very well locally, as long as it is wired too.
Sorry for the obscurity... but no there is no support for WebOS.
My set up is essentially an ultra low powered laptop that has Wake on Lan enabled so I can just tap a button and its ready to stream to the TV.
You may also be able to find the Steam Link hardware used online. Mine still works fine. Here's an example: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1016877965165996/
These look awesome, but are made to be used on actual N64's. This is what I would want to play N64 games with.
https://smile.amazon.com/Retro-Fighters-Brawler64-Wireless-N64-Controller/dp/B08TDZS8K5
I've heard about good things from 8Bitdo, this is the first thing I found for N64.
Fun fact. Did you know that you can play Goldeneye with dual sticks. One N64 controller in each hand, both holding the middle grip.
I just finished a playthrough of Ocarina of Time via Retroarch using the Tribute 64. Its so extremely versatile. Multiple input modes (like dinput and xinput) and is even compatible with the original N64 console if you ever wanted. I got its built in rumble to work and with a couple tweaks to the analog stick sensitivity I got it feeling pretty much like an original controller as far as responsiveness. Highly recommend.
You could try to figure out what surface of the Link becomes the hottest and try and find an external cooling fan. Maybe there are some that you can power off of usb and stick to the Link with some thermal adhesive tape. That or some simple aluminum heat sinks like these: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-10x20x20mm-Aluminum-Heatsink-Adhesive/dp/B08HHZRYQN
Not sure if that would stick to the plastic well and provide any proper cooling. Sadly as others here have said they shouldn't get so hot as to cause issues. I personally have 3 of them, one which has sadly died a while ago. The other two do get pretty hot but it's never lead to issues with connectivity.
I'd love to see the source that you found on that, since NVFBC is a capture method and NVENC is an encoder method, but that's not a big deal, it probably wouldn't make a difference anyway.
I found a few Type C to micro cables on amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Micro-Braided-Jacket/dp/B00UUBRX0Y
​
You could also get a Type C to USB A Female and use a regular micro to USB A male.
Maybe, as I think you suggested elsewhere, it is something horrid going on with the Android decoder on your phone.
I wonder if it would be the same or different with the Moonlight app and NVidia Geforce Experience / NVidia Gamestream?
Normally the presets are the left stick operates like cursor keys, Y button acts as primary/select, A button is like go back (from memory.)
I wonder if it looks like a keyboard or something to the phone. Does the gamepad have any different modes of operation?
Just remembered, I found a really handy app that I was using to try to understand the functions of a Bluetooth controller, gives you the low-down on what it sees through inputs. I found it very helpful. Maybe it'll help you? Gamepad Tester It can be used to actually reconfigure layouts etc if you have root (which I don't) but is useful just for the info it gives you if you've a technical mind. It displays Android/Linux button/controller names as described on this page. It's not going to solve your problem but it'll probably help you to weed the source of the problem down a bit more.
I'm stretching my memory a bit and it's been a hard day and I'm knackered, but I seem to recall you can redefine controller inputs on a real Steam Link hardware, maybe you can on the app?
According to a post in this thread it's 3.5x1.35mm.
I'd suggest you get a universal supply like this and set it to 5V. Should work fine.
What in the fuck, lol
USB over Ethernet works great. And what's wrong with a 50' HDMI cable? I use both to connect my PC to my main tv, works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_5RMT47QBR808ZKKWGT9K
My 2 cents - get a fiber to hdmi cable and a usb3 (not usbc) cable and run them out to the tv. This is what I did. Now my pc is hardwired to the computer in the office, but also to the tv in the main room. I have the best of both worlds. No streaming required. I still have my Xbox controller hooked in or a usb hub for a keyboard mouse combo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073N1GQFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N59XNO7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have no idea if Best Buy will have it, but you need something like this.
iirc, it’s probably out of print now but something like this would work if it has the right wattage for the Steam link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TUCYV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FM82AEAN56SW23X34V2M
The problem is Steam Link is basically just sharing your display, and when the TV is off, there's no display. I fought this exact same issue, and there are 2 solutions I'm aware of:
It’s an dummy HDMI plug that tricks the PC into believing it has a physical monitor connected to it. I bought this specific version in 2019 to allow me to play Division 2 in native 2048x1536 and it worked just fine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0788N4LT7
Just make sure you find something that supports up to 4K resolution.
SwitchBot Smart Switch Button Pusher - No Wiring, Wireless App or Timer Control, Add SwitchBot Hub compatible with Alexa, Google Home, HomePod, IFTTT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B7NXV4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YRW8Z5RYBJ7CV53ZQ0ND
I’m not tech savvy enough to make wake on lan over the internet work. Spent hours trying to figure it out. I gave up and bought this. $30 for the bot, $40 for the hub. A little pricy but the little bot will push the power button for you. Mission accomplished.
A wired Xbox 360/One controller works, wire may be a little short but you can hook it up to one these. Though wireless is more desired I personally found it be easier.
I bought the TP-Link AV2000 from Amazon for the specific reason of making my Steam Link run better. It was one of the top picks from The Wirecutter a year or two back so there may be an updated model now. YMMV but for me the difference in performance was night and day.
I have a gigabit router and gigabit connection but my games were really laggy over wifi on the Steam Link. I plugged that bad boy in and I haven't lagged once since.
I use the 8bitdo Wireless Bluetooth Adapter to pair the Xbox One S controller to the Samsung TV.
Before you do the initial pair you need to update the firmware on the adapter on your PC and pair the Xbox One S controller there. Once that's done you can plug in the 8Bitdo adapter to the Samsung TV. The controller will be paired and you will feel it vibrate.
Here is the link to the 8bitdo adapter on Amazon.
8Bitdo Wireless Bluetooth Adapter for Nintendo Switch, Windows, Mac, & Raspberry Pi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786JC6VW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5rJLCbWE3WK5R
It works flawlessly.
No. I tried all this (and more) and it just isn't destined to work.
Here is the issue - the chipset in Pi 4 is different than Pi 3. The Moonlight and Steam Link people have apps out for the Pi 3 but because of the differences don't work for shit on the Pi 4 until they publish changes.
Last I checked (6 weeks ago) no such changes where published.
So what is the solution.
For $25 you can buy a 4K Fire Stick. If you need ethernet functionality : https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Ethernet-Adapter-Fire-Devices/dp/B074TC662N
Now, if you look into that adapter you will see some problems with it - I am sure they are real. BUT I am using this stick with this adapter for Moonlight game streaming and am super happy. It delivers enough bandwith for this purpose.
Yes, both weird up. Although someone else has mentioned that the TV may not have a gigabit port, and may instead have an older type of port.
I'll give VirtualHere a try. Do you think a standard BT Dongle would work with my TV or does it need a special type of dongle?
For example, this one on Amazon.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.valvesoftware.steamlink
I don't have an Android device but the iOS version on my iPad works really well.
I think it didn't sell as well as Valve had in mind, also the apps for Android / iOS / Raspberry Pi can pretty much replace it
Any wired controller problem I've ever seen on Steam Link (both Steam Link box, and Steam Link app on Android TVs) is easily mitigated by VirtualHere. For the Steam Link box, you'll need to buy VirtualHere on Steam and all your Steam Link boxes will passthrough your USB controllers to the host system. For Android systems, you'll need VirtualHere from Google Play.
With VirtualHere, all the games you play think you use an actual controller. Games with native controller support will show you controller hints for example. Not a bandaid where controller buttons are mapped to keyboard keys, and in-game hint will say "press E" and you'll have to think which button on trigger is mapped to E key.
This is the one I just picked up. From what I saw when I looked into last week, it's one of the best for the price range, and it's dual band (5ghz and 2.4ghz) which is the biggest draw for me. It hasn't arrived yet, so I can't tell you how good it is, but everything I read says it's great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019WAQMVY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CH-9515031-NA-Wireless-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B078233TKB?th=1
I use this and it changed my gaming experience on the couch.
Although you would still need a wireless mouse
You have two options:
I generally power my monitor off all the way when I'm not using it, and some games/apps don't like running when there's no physical monitor attached/powered on.
Here we go. Man, wish I bought one of these in my 16:10 days. Glad that didn’t last very long.
4K HDMI Dummy Plug - High Resolution Virtual Monitor Display Emulator, New Generation Headless Display Adapter Supports up to 3840x2160@60Hz, 1080@120Hz DVI EDID Emulator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FB8GJ1Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bXCdFbPF9XNSJ
There is definitely a fire TV ethernet adapter.
A Pi will almost certainly result in a better end product, however it may take more work on the user's part to get there. Nothing crazy, but he or she may need to set aside an afternoon to follow a guide.
On the FireTV he or she will have to sideload and are locked to Amazon's OS/drivers, but it's easy peasy.
Definitely a matter of preference.
You can actually use Wake on LAN on the Steam Link, that might be something to look into. I haven't used it personally but I'd imagine you could wake it from some device on the network.
Just a quick google shows this: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.uk.mrwebb.wakeonlan
Is this a troll post by the Valve steam link marketing guy? /s
In all honesty though: Here the used steam links sell for 1€. I've even seen them as gifts for trash secret santa thingys.
Also I cannot recommend the other posters ideas enough. Especially the native android app. It's a charm on a smart TV.
Check out "Steam Link (BETA)" https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.valvesoftware.steamlink
I've been using the GameSir G4 for several years and really like it. Supports bluetooth with the link and laptop, has a USB dongle for the PC and Chromebook.
Then why would it put 4 ports on the back if 1 is active?
After some research, I found that a lot of people praise the ASUS AC68U (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB45SI4). The price rests at about $136.
Would this be a good choice, or is there a better router I could get for $150 or less?
I have this and it works great for the odd time I need it
I use a mygt controller I found on Amazon for like $22. It used Bluetooth or wireless and comes with a dongle. It also has a built in clip you can use on your phone with it too.i liked it so much I ended up buying another one.
Game Controller MYGT Bluetooth Wireless Gaming Controller Gamepad for Android Smartphone Windows PC PS3 VR TV Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07255V5Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sSFxCbJ6WMKGZ
Only thing, if I were you I'd consider investing in a Steam Controller (or two), and a Logitech K400 Plus which is on sale at Amazon right now:
You could also grab a Logitech mouse (one that works with their universal wireless dongle) for those times when a touch pad won't do. You'll need to pair the Logitech devices to a single dongle on the PC then they just use one USB port on the link and work well.
I'm in Canada and was able to install it on my Note8 through the Google Play store:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.valvesoftware.steamlink
I'm using wired headphones (Spellond Sades) for audio with my steamlink. And then I'm using WO Mic on my galaxy S8 for the mic. It's really easy to setup and free. And you can just connect to your wifi and get windows to recognize it as your mic.
You could use something like an HDMI audio extractor. This would extract the audio from the Steam Link's HDMI output and you could either route it directly to your speakers (using a cheap audio switcher, or just use a splitter to merge the two audio outputs) or route the audio to the living room PC's line-in, and use software to route the PC's line-in to the line-out.
Personally I run the wired ethernet and it works flawlessly. Almost any wireless router should have fast enough ethernet to make Steam Link run perfect. I have white walls so I just use the flat white ethernet cables that come with wall/ceiling tacks and run them across the ceiling to my steam link. Took me about ten minutes and $11 worth of supplies. Plus, no one has ever noticed the cables unless I pointed them out, to which they are always like "Oh wow I didn't even realize they were there"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017GQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Alternatively, the first set of controllers that I bought were these 3rd Party PS3 controllers. When I turn these on, they show up on the Steam Link like they're connected (though, as keyboards?) but I can't use them to control anything.
I mean, this d->a converter is only $10.99. could try it.
HDMI to RCA-GANA 1080P HDMI to AV 3RCA CVBs Composite Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KXI8LZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QgSZAb4TZCMP1
Is the TP link just acting as a Switch?
Disable DHCP and any NAT or firewall functions on the TP link.
Or buy a small switch, TP Link or netgear etc if all it needs to do is connect your desktop to your router
The least complex the better and usually cheaper :)
Edit: first result on google TP-LINK TL-SG1005D 5-Port Gigabit Unmanaged Desktop Switch https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rz5WAbZTX3WRH
Just go onto amazon and type in xbox one dongle. The new one is a lot smaller than the original. I have my doubts it'll work with steam link.
Windows 10 Xbox One Wireless Controller Adapter/Receiver https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074QMN4YW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-vCZAbB2HG0GT
The specs say 1 gigabit ports and 1000 mbps speeds, though I'm admittedly not the most knowledgeable when it comes to this.
These are the ones I went with.