Try to change the default search engine setting back to google, and to do this follow the steps: Go to the top right corner of Chrome's interface *Click on the three vertical dots and in settings *Find **Search engine used in the address bar*, that will be on this page *Change back to Google *Restart the browser *Test If that didn't work, try running this program: Chrome Cleanup Tool
It's a virus. You can try closing the window or hitting CTRL+SHIFT+ESC to open task manager and ending suspicious processes. Then follow these instructions!
It's exactly this product:
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Adapter-Specified-Control-PH-CB_RGB4P/dp/B01BZIBJAK
so it's a "RGB LED 4 Pin Adapter, Specified for Cases with Multi Colors RGB Control"
It seems to me it's a 5V RGB adapter for 12V RGB, or vice versa.
Or some sort of proprietary RGB control. RGB connectors are a mess nowadays.
USB 3.0 Micro Cable, ITANDA 3.3ft USB 3.0 A to Micro B Cable Charger Compatible with Samsung Galaxy S5, Note 3, Note Pro 12.2, WD Western Digital My Passport and Elements Hard Drives https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IE6VA0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MWY9TR6R3GVWYYWAH2FD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hey don't worry about it man. Here is what you're going to do:
Let me know if anything goes wrong!
Run a sweep with AdwCleaner and Hitman Pro. Chances are it is in the registry or something of that nature so it won't go away by just uninstalling a program. What AV do you have running currently?
The diagnostic is only as good as the testing methodology itself. Some tools may see a problem as merely a 'hiccup' rather than an actual fault. Some tests only scan the drive for SMART errors or errors that the drive itself has made a note of but don't actually test the drive. Programs like MHDD will scan the entire drive, sector by sector, and display a count of all scanned sectors with the access time as well as any hard faults it encounters. The problem with using something like MHDD is that it can be complicated to make work and sometime impossible on newer computers. The application will run but it won't detect the HDD. If you want to try it yourself you can download it here http://hddguru.com/software/2005.10.02-MHDD/ and create a bootable media. Change the setting in your UEFI/BIOS to enable CSM+Legacy support, disable 'Safe Boot' and put the SATA controller in IDE mode (if it doesn't have IDE just use AHCI). Boot from the created media and see if it picks up the drive, if not then power off the computer and change the SATA data cable to another port and try again, test with each port before giving up. If it sees the drive, select it by pressing the number next to it and press 'Enter'. Once selected, press 'F4' and when the menu box appears press 'F4' again. This will initiate the scan. DO NOT make any modifications to the menu that pops up. MHDD is a powerful utility that can alter characteristics of the scan and the drive itself. While scanning you will see nomenclature to the right. All of the scans should be less than 50ms each, anything that's 'Green' {can} indicate a problem but many WD Blue HDDs have many 150ms sectors right out of the box... anything that is 'Brown' or 500ms/greater is grounds for replacing the HDD. Any UNCs or '!'/ABRT means the drive is utter garbage.
So you dont appear to be low on RAM (at least when the system info was run) and you have plenty of drive space. I echo what pbrianq said and run checkdsk to see if the drive has errors. Lastly, if you arent using a SSD (solid state) drive, download http://www.auslogics.com/en/software/disk-defrag/ and run the defrag + optimization. If that doesnt fix it, then I'm wondering if you have some left over bits from prior AV products.
Hi, It_is_Mason. The internal temperature sensors on laptops aren't the highest-quality instruments on the planet. I have seen them incorrectly report temperatures to the motherboard. The motherboard then thinks the computer is cooking, and turns the fans up to max.
You can download HWMon here https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html and check your temperatures after the computer has run for 30 minutes, but hasn't played any games for at least an hour. That will give us a good baseline. Please post the numbers here along with units (F or C).
If you haven't already sent it in for warranty work, you should consider using HWMon to see if your computer is overheating. You can download it here: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
Run it for 30 minutes without playing any games (web browsing is ok) and tell us what your baseline temperature is (please let us know if it's F or C). Then start up a game and play until bluescreen. Immediately reboot and run HWMon and tell us the temperature, before the computer has a chance to cool off.
The other thing it could be is driver or antivirus related. When you get the bluescreen, please make note of the Stop Code at the bottom of the screen, and post it here. That can help us determine if some simple updates can resolve the issue.
Do all photo types do that (JPG, PNG, etc...)?
Did it used to work?
Can you load photo viewer itself through windows?
Are any other programs failing to launch?
If you want to try a 3rd party solution try http://www.xnview.com/en/ which is better than the stock windows viewer anyway
OP: Try that https://articulate.com/support/article/how-to-turn-user-account-control-on-or-off-in-windows-10 You may want to re-enable it once you are done with your CD. The problem resides with User Account Control.
Lifetime unlimited storage sounds suspect af. Google drives most expensive plan i could see is two terrabyte https://one.google.com/about?hl=sv
​
im not sure we are talking about the same thing tho
sounds like a virus or bot to me. or you could be having an interrupt error that's causing issues as well. check the device manager to make sure everything is okay. download procmon if you can and install
my other suggestion is install hijackthis free from trend micro to see if anything fishy is in your startups or registry.
Looks like a 2 pin cable which can allow you to 'reset' it via the case Reset button. The other port looks like a SATA connector. Where to get one?
I routinely clone win10 to ssd and use in other computers. Also us this method as a back up for my systems, I always have extra ssd's for each of the computers. https://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Notebook-Upgrade-Connection-ASW-USB3-25/dp/B005C983NA/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ez+gig&qid=1607898245&sr=8-2
How big was her main drive when it was working? Is that a chromebook or something?
busy mind didn't see that you listed the laptop model. That's the model, right? https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-130S-11IGM-Laptop-Celeron-Windows/dp/B07RHMBGCF
If so, that seems to be an embedded memory, could be soldered directly (cheaper to manufacture, so possibly) or not. It might be below that silver shield, or on the other side of the board. Look for anything that could be removable that... well. might resemble to an SD Card.
However chances are that it's soldered, and I'd not know an easy way to access these, sorry.
I just found this board on Amazon Prime Day deals for cheap and I am a fan of Asus, from what I can tell it looks pretty similar to the MSI one you posted. Do you see any issues? It's on sale for $76 which sounds pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKT5CTH/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Indeed!
The GPU is soldered to the motherboard right beside the CPU. The four screws holding the fans and heat sinks assembly down to the CPU cover the GPU to its left. Should be five screws total.
Dell Precision 5510/5520 Service
Laptops generally do not have graphics cards, and while we understand the manufacturing reasons why, the industry needs to get together and start offering cards.
When you remove the cooling assembly, you will need to cleanup the old thermal clay and apply a high quality thermal grease.
Let our team know if you have any questions.
Buy an aux port removal tool and pray, basically. That's pretty gunked up, I'm not sure if you'll be able to get this in there but they're cheap so I guess it's worth a shot. If that doesn't work, a bluetooth headset (and adapter if needed) would likely be your next cheapest option.
It sounds and appears as if the axis bushing is starting to fail.
Of course, the best solution is replacement. But quite often, our clients or ourselves disassemble the fan assembly and service it with a little bit of grease.
Our clients have been able to bring a fan assembly back to life for quite a while, years even, just by cleaning and servicing.
it appeared suddenly, i guess unmanaged, its just a plug n play switch from tp link, all i changed was using a deeper connect pico on one port of the switch for an anonymous wlan for one laptop, but i turned that off after it happened and multiple restarts didnt help, do i need to press some reset button or anything?
its this one
This seems like it would work...
>IMPORTANT NOTE: Compatible with the Flash SSD module used in the 2012 / early 2013 13" and 15" MacBook Pro with Retina Display models only and NOT for use with any other SSD modules, including the OWC Aura and Aura Pro 6g SSDs. *Requires USB 3.0 standard powered port. USB 2.0 use not supported or recommended
This looks suitable as I have found issues with the psu today, what do you think for the GTX980TI FX8350CPU, 2xSSD and 1xHDD and 1xDVD setup?
Buy an extractor tool. Push it in as far as it will go, squeeze, and pull. Straws don't work as well because if you squeeze them it doesn't create inward pressure at the tip where you need it.
The graphics card is new gtx 980 and the issue is only in 50% of the games i play. When i use Fraps to record the issue it shows nothing in the video. This is a recording using my phone http://tinypic.com/r/9t27hw/8. I have tried to lower resolution but it didn't help at all
The limitation you have is caused by your hardware, not the OS; 64-bit operating systems handle > 100 GB of RAM (typical server architecture) and can theoretically handle 2^64 different addresses assignments, which is well into the Exabyte range. There's a good explanation of reasons here in regards to a specific Intel processor and why the person couldn't upgrade to 16 GB of RAM and was stuck on 8 GB: What limits my laptop on upgrading RAM at 8GB?
Yes it works better when you upgrade in pairs because of dual-channel performance, but don't use 2, 4GB sticks. Use 4, 2GB sticks. You won't notice a performance difference and you run the high risk of your memory not working at all by using sticks higher than your mobo can handle.
According to the internet, all you should need is a slightly better graphics card though in theory your computer should run that.
http://www.systemrequirementslab.com/cyri/requirements/fallout-4/12905
Do you use any sort of VPN? I have NordVPN and every once in a while I have to disable it to get some places. Usually not for Dropbox though. And I assume this isn't a company PC, right? My work blocks Dropbox and Gmail access as a corporate policy on my work Laptop.
External Drive, big box thing. It's plugged in, light shows it's connected. I don't know about external power, I'm not very computer-y, but it's only got one cable so I don't think so? It's this product, if that helps.
You will also need a Molex Power Supply if you go this route
Instead an IDE dock you'll likely never use/need again, I'd get a USB to SATA/IDE adapter. Can use it for any SATA drive you want to test in the future. Something like THIS
The second one is better but older and hotter running. Look for a 3060 model...
I recommend this one along with a cooling pad.
Just use something like this and connect whatever hub into it
Hey - I know this post is pretty old but did you ever figure this out? Running into a similar issue and wasn't sure if something like this would work.
Here's one from Amazon. All you really need to do is to just plug the hard drive from the broken laptop in to another pc using the adapter. From there you'll just have to open file explorer on Windows and you should be able to access the hard drive. Unless the drive is encrypted or is dead, you should not have any problems accessing it. Hope this helps
Hi, here is how I do it: just use Foldersync app, https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=dk.tacit.android.foldersync.lite, on Android and OneDrive on Windows.
Works like a charm
Either A: Copy the HDD in small chunks (since you mentioned it shuts off every 30mins)
Or B: Get an IDE (or SATA, you can tell me the model number to check) enclosure like this.
Given the age of the system, crashing every 30mins is a very likely sign that the thermal paste (what goes between the CPU and heatsink) is dry and needs replacing.
Well, there is this number at the top left corner:
Then there is the actual HP Part number:
Here is a listing on Amazon:
Here is a listing on NewEgg:
Your laptop has a microSD card slot, my advise would be to pick up this 128GB microSD card: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-128GB-microSD-memory-Adapter/dp/B09FFF18BQ/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08938FX9G/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_fabc_AFYcGb2PF0FNG
It was this one about 2 years ago, Initially just got it for college stuff with teams but yeah
It seems to be even more broken than before. The bent receptacle seems to be now missing.
Maybe it's stuck inside the cable? Please take a picture of the other side of the cable you're holding (turn it 180° and take a pic)
That's called an MHF4 plug. You can see the female (left) and male (right) leads here. Your card has the male lead (though yours's broken), and the cable you're holding has the female lead.
I need a picture, like the one I linked above, to confirm that the female lead is clear, and without a stuck ring inside of it.
If it's clear enough for you that there's a ring stuck on it, you can gently pry it off with a needle.
I'd recommend getting a new wireless card. It's not very expensive
If you look at the link listed above, you'll see that there's a gold ring on the connector that is broken from yours. It's a relatively sensible part.
After we confirm that your cable is clear, and you receive and install your new wireless card, just carefully connect it back. Just align it, then push with a fingernail, until it clicks in place. Not hard at all.
i agree with r/sniper_matt, you can do this first before you start taking it all apart. but i'd just suggest replacing it with a air cooler. i'd recommend this ->
Heres a good set suitable for electronics with screws on the small side.
Here you go OP.
The picture isn't very clear but it looks like a Display port rather than HDMI.
If you need one in the future, remember that these adapters are directional.
All 3 of the free ports on your GPU are Display Ports (DP). The blue thing in your hand is a VGA cable. If your monitor accepts VGA only, you need an adapter that converts DP to VGA. Something like this would work: Adapter link
i recomend making an windows 10 installation usb and do a fresh install on either a second hdd or take a laptop and use something like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?crid=BJ3JRE5T7KD2&keywords=sata%2Bto%2Busb&qid=1652824585&sprefix=sata%2Bto%2Busb%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-3&th=1 to copy over all important files to something else and then do a completely fresh install.
yeah try a different one or a PS/2 if you still have one :/
there might be adapters available at bestbuy or something locally, but worst case if you do think it's the keyboard and other USB keyboards are also not working you could snag an adapter. what you'd want is a usb female to ps/2 male adapter like this -- https://www.amazon.com/DGZZI-Adapter-Purple-Converter-Keyboard/dp/B09F33TGSR/
If it's just for photo editing, I'd say go for 2022 Lenovo IdeaPad 3 Gaming Laptop 15.6" 120Hz, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 Ti 4GB GDDR6, 6-core AMD Ryzen 5-5600H(up to 4.2GHz), 8GB RAM 512GB SSD, Windows 11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09V4W5976/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5NR8HR2C58JSDSW8MG7V
That is an old IDE connector. Something like this is what you would need to access it.
The dock that was sold to you is of no use to you in this case.
Hey bud you should have a look at the WiFi expanders basically you plug one in by your router plug an ethernet from the router to plugin then, put the partner one by your pc/laptop in a plug and run a cable from that to that.
Basically it uses your wiring connection for power to become a cat 5 cable here's a link to some I used in the past.
There are a few brands out there, have an explore but I think that'll have the answer to your problems. Just make sure they have the Ethernet ports at the bottom.
It's one of these These
This is mostly used for transferring photos to your drive via your phone, and then later plugging the drive into your PC to transfer them later or vice versa.
It's very useful if your on the go and want to backup or transfer files, but you don't have access to a computer. As the Type-C end (The rounded Connector) Will plug into your phone and it will show up as a drive, like a computer and you can transfer whatever you want. The Type-A part (The Square Connector) can be used to transfer at an PC.
Yes, it should be plugged into the computer, if you don't have the same port, you need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Moread-Gold-Plated-Projector-Chromebook-Raspberry/dp/B00SW9JI9A/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=TV+with+VGA+Input&qid=1645375350&sr=8-28
(I'm not advertising it, it's only an example)
Spigot is pretty easy to install, especially if you aren't dealing with mods or anything.
I've never installed this on MacOS, but there are instructions to do it (I've done it in Win10 and Linux though and neither were difficult). It shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes at most. If you want to access this from outside your local network (or have friends connect) you'll need to set up a port forward on your router.
https://fonts.google.com/specimen/Libre+Baskerville#standard-styles
This mentions that it is a Libre based font. So it could be legit if you know who shared it or it could be a virus. Best leave it alone if you're not sure.
First try restarting the computer, then deleting the files.
Next, try using IOBit Unlocker - usually available at the following site: https://filehippo.com/download_iobit-unlocker-h4o/post_download/
The software below will also enable you to delete system files that are required by the system to run! Do Not Use this unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing!
If that doesnt work, try using the following software to delete files/folders (including System Files/Folders) that won't delete: https://lockhunter.com/download.htm
Be careful and I hope this helps!
All the best to you & yours and stay Healthy, Happy, and Safe!
I bought this hard drive (you can buy others like it).
Kingston A400 240G Internal SSD M.2 2280 SA400M8/240G - Increase Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P22RK1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_62BWKS1WWYE3MHEB7CFT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Then I undid all the screws on the back and the ssd pops right out. There are also screws underneath the sticky grips on the bottom. Keep the screws organized and put them exactly back where you got them. You’ll see the ssd, pop it out, put the new one in, screw it back together, then create a bootable usb with windows loaded.
https://www.amazon.ca/Dell-OptiPlex-960-2-66GHz-GeForce/dp/B01CITOX62/ref=sr_1_3?crid=PN3POJ4Q6YBI&keywords=dell+optiplex+960&qid=1643045079&sprefix=dell%2520optiplex%2520960%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-3
here is one with the 9400, you could pick up a 9650 for 20 bucks (gamble if its a china seller) or the core 2 quad extreme, wich i wish you good luck finding one under 1000 dolalrs (its litaraly like 5% better then the q9650 lol)
Pull the drive and use a USB/SATA adapter or enclosure (maybe like this) to move the data onto another hard drive, then browse, backup, copy, and analyze the data.
Ok, there are some Lenovos that had some wireless issues. Let's give this a try...
Download Slimdrivers from http://download.cnet.com/SlimDrivers-Free/3000-18513_4-75279940.html and let it update all of the drivers. Pay close attention to see if there's an update for your wireless drivers (typically either Intel, Broadcom, or Atheros).
Download Slimdrivers to update the drivers. See if that helps. http://download.cnet.com/SlimDrivers-Free/3000-18513_4-75279940.html
Also, when is the last time you took a can of air to the laptop to clean out the dust?
I'll be honest, I have never heard of that happening with a SD card. I would download the SD card formatter from here and format the SD card with that first. After that, go in and use the partition manager to format it from exFat to Fat32. If that doesn't work, you may have a bad sd card.
Well, that is exactly what you should try. Here’s the plan:
Make a backup of any important data that your mom wouldn’t want to lose. Think about things like family photos, documents for work, etcetera. (This shouldn’t be necessary, but a backup is always a good idea, especially when switching OS and ESPECIALLY on a potentially failing laptop).
Download pop_OS by system 76. This is one of the easiest to use Linux distorts that I know of. Why Linux? Because Linux has a very handy feature: you can install it onto a usb drive, plug that drive into any pc, and run Linux without installing it on that pc (and by extension, without deleting any files).
This is the official website, and this is their guide explaining how to install it onto a usb drive you can just skip the step where they check the checksum if you have reliable internet, I’ve never needed to do that.
When you’re done with this guide, pop_OS might ask you to install it. When you’re at the screen where you choose between a simple or a custom install, don’t choose either option. Instead, press the green demo button in the bottom left corner. This would allow you to use pop_OS without losing any files.
Could be. What are your temps like ? Not necessarily the problem buts it`s a good place to start . If you don`t know what your temps are download this https://www.hwinfo.com/ . It will tell you everything your pc`s temps, power usage, plus a lot more.
Honestly, If that fan on the CPU is not spinning you will overheat and possibly damage the chip. To check your temps download the app from here https://www.hwinfo.com/ .when running it will show you everything you could want to know about your pc. Click on the sensors button and in the window that opens up you will see temps for your whole system. If you see those temps rising to 90+ you are over heating and your CPU will try to thermal throttle to cool it`s self off before damage occurs. Then it will most likely start crashing and could end up costing a lot more than just a cooling fan. Honestly they are not that much, you need to look up one for you CPU but it should be under a 100$.
You would need a 90 degree PCIE 1x extender like this to connect your WIFI card as your 1x slot is under your GPU but like a few others have stated it would most likely be easier to return it and go for a USB one instead.
I just found this, but I am not sure about quality:
https://www.amazon.com/URBEST90mm-25mm-Cooling-Computer-Cooler/dp/B01CHXUSGS
Probably going to need something like this: StarTech.com USB 3.0 to HDMI Adapter - 1080p (1900x1200) - Slim/Compact USB Type-A to HDMI Display Adapter Converter for Monitor - External Video & Graphics Card - Black - Windows Only (USB32HDES) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H91BQ7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RJSP4SAE21281G98MSWC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's some information I found online: How To Change A Windows Account Name And User Profile Folder Name
I have no idea how well it works but I personally wouldn't do it that way. I would just create a new Windows user account with the information I wanted, migrate my information over to that new account, then remove the old account.
Your best bet is to go to Add/Remove Programs and remove anything that looks unfamiliar or suspicious. Also, a good idea may be to create a new Administrator profile, and delete your old one (Backup whatever data you need). Next, run ComboFix. After ComboFix has done its thing, restart, and run HijackThis! and look for any entries that seem suspicious. If you don't know what the processes are, a simple google will reveal other people's experiences with that process.
Good luck, although I would recommend you get your Windows 7 ISO/DVD and run the Win7 USB/DVD tool and boot from the USB drive you created to freshly install Windows 7.
750w is probably OK.. if it wasn't, at least in most instances, it's safe to assume that it would crash when the GPU was actually under a heavy load or in specific games/applications.
> b550m arorus pro
the product manual for this just states that a single short beep = everything is good
https://www.gigabyte.com/Support/FAQ/816 -- i can only assume that these are beep codes for most gigabyte boards
and finally...
https://www.amazon.com/RuiLing-Motherboard-Speaker-Computer-Internal/dp/B07SPYB2HF/
for $5 you can get a.. well.. two little speaker that will allow you to hear the beep(s).
Maybe something like this
PCI-e PCI Express 36PIN 1X Extender Extension Cable with Gold-Plated Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2BJPDN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3J4CEG619NKEMT3KPF7A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just realised this is all probably because it's a crap make. I looked it up on amazon and while it used to have some 5 star reviews, they are now all one star and it's under a different name. I'll just have to get another USB and hope my files survive the transfer. The brand is Luckite and it's name on Amazon is "USB Flash Drive 1000GB - Thumb Drive, High Speed USB Drive, Portable Ultra Large Data Storage USB Memory Stick, Jump Drive Pen Drive Come with Keychain". Here's a link to the amazon UK page: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09LPX2GTX/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
oh.
raspberry pi hooked to a TV via HDMI setup to boot running a slideshow of the directory of images.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6Q2GSY
$89 dollars, the rest can be implemented via free open-source software. takes a little bit of doing, not much, more or less just an afternoon. there are some tutorials online, do a search for "raspberry pi TV slide show"
that being said, there's way to do this using a roku or firestick device and a USB stick for media storage, but i am not 100% on how to do that.
please understand that not trying to tell you your business by any means, but this is seriously worth looking into. the bottom line is there is so much you don't have to do to get this working. it would be a mistake to do this in powerpoint using a full blown laptop or PC as it's a hassle and a waste of time and resources. if you need to add text or new information to the slide show just create an image file with the content you want displayed and place it in the directory with the rest of the images... viola.
oh and one last thing... i wanted to say you're welcome for the reply and thank you for the thanks! i'm just trying to save you some hassle!
You'll need to go here to purchase one SanDisk Ultra 64 GB USB Flash Drive USB 3.0 Up to 130 MB/s Read, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DQGBYDC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QX28BKJ3QMWV45VGGZQ5
Then you'll need to reinstall windows 🪟 10 or 11 on it and boot into safe mode by going here
Following the steps in this youtube video will help you
Where specifically is the sound coming from? Also, check out this monitoring program to see your temperatures. You don't wanna run w/e it is at dangerously high temps. https://filehippo.com/download_speccy
Click the green box at the top right. Don't add any extra downloads to it. Run the program, then check the main summary page and record the info it's giving you.
More or less, but I'll detail the process for you. Before you do anything, make sure that your USB drive has Windows 7 properly copied to it. You can find a detailed guide on how to do it here. Do you have an ISO file copy of your Windows 7 disc? Programs like ImgBurn can help you with that. Once you have a bootable copy of Windows 7 on your USB drive, do these:
Backup everything you do not want to lose onto an external hard drive.
Turn off your computer and insert the USB into any active USB port.
To make sure that your motherboard boots into the USB drive, bring up the boot selection menu while the computer boots. Usually you press the F12 key, but it varies from board to board. Another way is to change the boot order in your BIOS/UEFI interface to force the USB drive to be the first drive read. To get to the BIOS/UEFI, usually you press the DEL or F2 keys. Again, it varies.
You should boot into the USB drive and see the typical install screen that you would see on the Windows 7 DVD.
After installation is complete, restore all your backed up files.
Update Windows 7 until there are no more and install your applications.
Congradulations! You are done.
Just a suggestion, if the game is pirated or torrented, there MAY be a chance that there really is a virus embedded in it...With that being said, download Appremover from http://www.appremover.com/download to remove McAfee.
Cloning produces an exact copy. If losing keys, or licenses is a concern, install Belarc Advisor on the drive to be copied first. https://www.belarc.com/AdvisorDownload .doing so will insure access to that information.
Am not sure I understand the question exactly, so here's my best shot. If you are referencing the drive in the old computer, no need to remove the OS, if you simply want to erase the data so it can be reused by someone else just reset the computer.
If on the other hand you are concerned about the existing OS on the drive in the destination computer, yes you may remove the OS from it as it will no longer be your boot drive.
In hopes this information helps.
Have you been into Event Viewer to see if anything is throwing an alert?
right click my computer/manage/event viewer (in the left pane)
While there also go into Device Manager and see if you have any exclamation marks etc by any of your hardware which likely indicates a driver issue.
Whocrashed might also help shed some light on things.
Who Crashed might be able to point you in the right direction. Usually this type of behaviour is driver related.
If it turns out the drivers are corrupted, then you may have data errors and this could be the result of failing C: drive or RAM that's throwing errors and corrupting data...but start with the easy stuff first Who Crashed and look at replacing your old motherboard and graphics drivers. Not with Windows updates replacements but with drivers from the motherboard and graphics card makers website or the website support pages for your factory built PC or laptop.
Download, install and run whocrashed. It's a program that will give you a better idea where the errors are coming from that cause the BSODs.
Often it will point to the RAM as throwing errors or a driver for a component like a video card that is creating problems. If it's a driver issue, just download and install the latest driver from either AMD or Nvidia, (depending on the card chip maker). If it's a driver for a different component, then you'll have to DL the driver from the manufacturers website.
http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed
If it's RAM, try DLg, installing and running Memtest. This is the GUI version, and easy to use. Run it long enough to get 1000% coverage of the RAM. No errors are acceptable.
That sucks, combined with the sound, seems like your hard drive may be dying. But theres a couple things to check to make sure.
Since you said chdsk didnt fox the io error. You can try changing the transfer mode. Hit windows key + x > Device manager > Expand ide ATA/ATAPI controllers > Right click the drive > properties > advanced settings > in the transfer mode box select PIO only for the drive. Try the chdsk again in cmd prompt.
Raw means youve lost the partition for the drive. You need to download a partition recovery software. Theres some good links below, and first try this:
If it still doesn't work, hit windows key + x > Disk management. If the drive isn't listed, its failing. If it is listed but not initialized, you can use this program to recover your data. Or try this one its probably better.
If none of this works, your drive is probably dying. If possible, back it up to another asap. Be ready to get a replacement. If you need whats on it, send the computer to a data recovery center or some other professionals who could fix it. Also search all over the internet for an answer I could have forgotten.
This is usually an error that happens due to your system abruptly shutting down or restarting, giving the error code 41 in Event Viewer.
This issue can be caused by a few things, I would recommend checking Event Viewer beforehand, to see if there's weird files causing the issue.
Also, use BlueScreenView to see if there's any programs or files causing the issue, too.
A common issue with this happening is due to the PSU not supplying enough power to the system, resulting in the PSU being faulty. You can test with another power supply to see if this issue resurfaces.
How often does this happen?
One last thing, make sure to watch your CPU's temps with something like CoreTemp just to ensure that your system is just getting too hot and crashing.
It could be many things.
I'd recommend checking your temps with https://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
If your CPU gets hot enough it will purposely underclock itself to cool down.
Make sure your laptop isn't on a blanket or cloth material, put it on a hard surface or use a cooling pad.
Make sure your laptop is connected to the AC adapter when gaming, or turn on high performance in power settings via control panel.
If your connected to an AC adapter it allows the system to use all of its resources instead of conserving battery life.
Other things could be updating graphics drivers, current specs, resolution, v-sync etc.
What is the model of your laptop?
Hi ShardAura, If I were you, I would start with downloading BlueScreenView from this page: http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html. When you start this application, it lists all the bluescreens you've had and shows detailed information about it. What I find most interesting to read when I select the latest bluescreen message in its list, is the column called: "Bug Check String". This gives an indication of what could be the issue. Could you find this and share it here? I think it would help us to find a solution.
There's a program called bluescreen view that should let you get some more info. You want to open the .dmp file that's listed in the third screenshot you posted.
Download and run the free app "BlueScreen View" (http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html). It will help you figure out why it crashed. I'm guessing your video card drivers are to blame, try a newer (or older) version.
If you download and run a benchmark tool it may give you an idea where your problem is.
This is the one I like/use.
There may be a storage space issue.
I recommend running a userbenchmark and sharing the results, this will help us by showing us your specs and giving us a little bit of information about the status of your PC's components. Do not worry about the scores just do the test and share the resulting URL.
It sounds like the fan. Hold your hands up to one of the vents and see if there's an air current.
Also, can you power of back on and check what temperature your computer is at? To do so, I would reccomend a program called HWMonitor. Just download the ZIP file, extract it, and take a screenshot/picture. You can safely delete it after.
It sounds like a temperature problem. Can you provide specs or name of laptop? Also, try downloading something like HWMonitor (non-pro ver) and play 2k in windowed mode with HWMonitor and keep an eye on the CPU temp. What temperature does it reach before crashing.
According to user-reported benchmarks shown here http://www.userbenchmark.com/PCGame/FPS-Estimates-Counter-Strike--Global-Offensive/3680/27242.34954.0.1080p.0 It appears that you're indeed falling a bit short. A few common issues that could be causing this might be...
1.) Your iGPU on the CPU is rendering the game instead of the 960M 2.) The 960M is rendering but power settings are reducing the clock speeds. 3.) Outdated or not-optimized drivers
Download HWMonitor from CPUID https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html and open the Windows Task Manager and go to the 'Performance' tab and select GPU and let them run in the background while you play a round or two of CS:GO. Exit the game and check the task manager first to see what the graph shows for the 960M/iGPU and see if the graph shows high usage for one or the other. You can also check the results of HWMonitor where it will show you the Max clock-speed, utilization and temp of the GPU and make sure the 960M is being used rather than the iGPU.
If the 960M isn't being utilized properly, try changing your power settings to 'maximum performance' and ensure the charger is plugged in and try again. If there's no change, try going into your UEFI/BIOS and see if it lets you disable the iGPU and proceed with disabling it if possible.
Lastly you could try downloading the newest drivers from Intel and Nvidia respectively and try that too.
In a bit of a hurry so hopefully this isn't worded poorly but I know I've skipped a few things, just try these first and see how it goes. Good Luck.
The 4702MQ has a TJ-Max of 100°C The GTX 760M has a max temp of 101°C
Download and install HWMonitor (Hardware Monitor) https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html This program will show your Min/Current/Max temperatures for all of the reporting components. More than likely your CPU and GPU are just working too hard and the laptop doesn't have enough heat dissipation. If the laptop is a few years old you could disassemble it and replace the TIM (thermal interface material) on the CPU and GPU. If you're not comfortable doing this you can ask a local computer repair shop but don't pay them more than $100, they should charge you less but that would be the maximum you should accept, haggle if necessary because it's easy money for them and not much liability involved if they're at all competent at repairs. Just note you should only use non-conductive TIM in this laptop. Don't use liquid metal or a TIM with conductive material in it.
Note New TIM will only help if it's dried out or not transferring heat effectively. The heatsink/fan combination ACER used will be the main limiting factor in overall heat dissipation but I normally see laptop used for a few years drop substantially in operating temperature.
I think Synergy is what you’re looking for. Connect one monitor to one pc and the other monitor to the other one, and use synergy to share the input devices. Only problem is that it isn’t free, so you have to decide whether or not it’s worth the money.
I would definitely recommend uploading a photo of this issue, using your phone or something as that would be super helpful.
For starters, I check out what graphics card your system has by using something like dxdiag, which is already on your system, or a third-party utility like GPU-Z. If you don't have a dedicated GPU, still use the utility to find out what APU you have.
Once you find out what graphics card you have, go to the respective nVidia or AMD website, download, and update drivers.
If you're still having issues, perhaps try another graphics you might have lying around.
Gl bud, let us know if you find the problem.
I used this temp monitor and this stress test: https://openhardwaremonitor.org https://www.jam-software.com/heavyload
I don’t really know what else would shut your computer down besides overheating, If I think of something I’ll be back