Correct, you'd need an actual network module like this one (looks similar but made for networking): https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Q-AC1058-Network-Interface/dp/B078FLT5S3/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+telecom+module&qid=1606784910&sr=8-6
but it's doing the same thing as the poster above said. You'd still need to have a switch to connect them all and the router there.
Pull all the blue wires off that module, then connect keystone ethernet inserts to each blue cable. Bring the router to that panel, plug the white ethernet cable into the router, the router gives gives you 4 lan ports, so you are only limited to 4 active ethernet cables unless you add a switch at that panel too.
Apple devices sometimes are notorious for "sticky wifi" compared to other devices, as the threshold for bad RSSI strength is higher (at least it was the last time I extensively researched the issue).
I've heard about Speedify but never used it, there may be other comparable programs.
Yes, you can absolutely reach your rated speeds with your own equipment. I have gigabit FiOS and get full speeds up/down. I'm using business-grade equipment (Fortigate 60F) but there's no need to do that. What Nighthawk did you buy?
Something like this should be easily able to hit gigabit speeds on a wired connection:
Are you sure the issue is not with your computer or the ethernet cable? Have you tried a different cable? Also, have you tried connecting your computer with ethernet directly to the ONT to test the speeds?
If you can't get full speeds from the ONT when you are directly connected, I'd see if you could try with a different computer to see if that might be an issue (assuming you've excluded the ethernet cable as the cause).
In any event, tons of people use their own equipment and get the fully rated speed of their connection. There's no reason to use Verizon's router unless you have TV (although there's ways around that) or you want them to support it for you. There's a few other advantages to using their equipment (such as built in MoCA if you need to use extenders) but none of it is applicable to your situation.
There’s a few things here.... 1. You’re streaming to your iPad which tells me you are using wireless. This right here can limit your streaming performance on a variety of factors, router, distance, walls, etc.
The only way to definitely test whether your speeds are throttled is to test video streaming on a hardwired desktop, laptop, game console or smartTV
Also using NordVPN, Verizon has no way of knowing what your traffic is. All they see is a stream of data coming to/from a NordVPN server, so they couldn’t possibly throttle Amazon through NordVPN, otherwise VPNs would be almost useless in terms of security.
Your best bet is to signup again as a new customer (100/100 is 39.99) and cancel your existing service. Go to the website, make sure you're logged out, and try to sign up again as a new customer. I was able to do it with the same name and address but many use a partner's name instead. If it says that there is currently service at this address, just select the current resident is moving out. If you make it to the credit check part you should be good, just make sure to create a new unique username at the end. Then call and cancel your existing service, disconnect a day before you new service install date.
It's silly that you need to do this, but this is the easiest way to get new customer pricing. Check the slickdeals wiki for a more detailed step by step process for this.
Run a speed test on https://fast.com/ which connects to Netflix's servers.
You can also right-click on a youtube video and hit stats for nerds which will tell you how fast you're downloading the video.
I had 8.8.4.4 (another google public dns IP) set before. I just added 1.1.1.1 to my dns server list, just to get some extra redundancy.
Edit: 1.1.1.1 is cloudflare's new public dns offering
I usually remove the work box and just do a bracket / "mud ring" / whatever you want to call it, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Single-Drywall-Bracket-Voltage-Mounting/dp/B08KPPP2R6
The tech will carry those, we use them all the time.
And a side question, are you doing internet only or TV as well? Just curious because if you're internet only you won't be needing coax regardless, it would be ethernet from the ONT to the router.
It's up to you, but I purchased a G1100 (refurb) from Amazon. They are about $40 and support up to gig speeds. I use eero for my wifi, but the G1100 gives me verizon firmware and moca for coax if I need it. It's not easy to find moca router. Normally, you have to buy moca separately. I'm a mix and match internet only customer right now, but the g1110 support everything that fios offers. ou can also buy the g3100, but I don't think it's worth the $300 or so. Just my opinion. :)
I'd recommend buying the quantum gateway off ebay or amazon. It's only like $80 (that's how I got mine and it works great) here's a link
You need a MoCA adapter (not two) for guide, DVR, and on demand to work without a Verizon router. Simply plug the coaxial cable that would otherwise be connected to the Verizon router into the Coax In port, and connect the Ethernet port to a LAN port on your router. Of course, the router's WAN port connects to the ONT's Ethernet port as normal.
A Verizon router is only required if you want Remote DVR (the ability to configure your DVR and watch recorded shows from away from home) to work.
Buy a MoCA adapter, connect the Ethernet port to your router, connect the Coax In port to the Coax cable that you'd connect to the FiOS router if you had one. The other option is to use a FiOS router, but a MoCA adapter is a better option as FiOS routers aren't very good.
I just did it recently under my wife's name, everything went smooth. My cancellation date for current account was 15th and the earliest installation date available at that time was 17th. But I chatted with tech support and they manually activated my service under my wife's name in 5 minutes, here is the link to activation and tech support activate.verizon.com
This is how it goes: -Visit online page and sign up under the new name, check this link out https://slickdeals.net/share/android_app/t/11911591, pretty good offers if you qualify. -Select the date which matches with the cancellation date of your current account, for example, if your cancellation date is Sep. 30th, select installation date 30th too, any other date would fine too, explanation is above. -Everything should be seamless and automatic, if not, visit activate.verizon.com and put it your order# and the zip code, remember, you can always chat with the tech support to manually activate your FIOS service before the selected installation date, assuming your current service is cancelled. -Click my referral link https://vz.to/2CGt6kt for extra $$$ MasterCard or use this code VRANC002VZ instead.
Downtime: Technically, did not have a downtime. My service was cancelled in the morning and the new service was activated under my wife's name after I chatted with tech support. It's automatic if the cancellation and installation dates match, otherwise tech support chat or phone call will be required to initiate a manual activation (they send a signal to ONT from their service center)
PM me for help, will be happy to help.
If OP has an Android phone, there's WiFiAnalyzer (open source/free, available on the Google Play store or on F-Droid). It can generate detailed graphs like this on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz networks so you can see how much congestion there is with neighbors' wireless APs talking over each other.
In my apartment, other than three other FiOS users, the 5GHz band is extremely clean, no interference.
You can setup your own DNS server that makes use of external systems if you so desire.
If you happen to have a Raspberry Pi sitting around you could use something like PiHole to get rid of ads as well while you're at it :) https://pi-hole.net/
These devices apparently work, they were designed for use by Frontier, but a few people have stated they work fine on VZ.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PWPKG6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_M9WK7Z3CGN96RWP8AWX4
They utilize the moca wan frequency and can bridge the connection to your own router.
That router is capable of up to gigabit speeds on a wired connection and up to 300M on wifi (802.11 b/g/n). If you are on internet only and want something better/more modern i would go with TP-Link AX1800 or Verizon Fios G1100 if you want to keep using Verizon equipment incase you need to troubleshoot your connection for any reason.
Get an EERO mesh system.
Plug the first eero into the fios router with an ethernet cable.
Set up a new network in the app. (New SSID)
Put the EERO in bridge mode.
Setup the other two EEROs where you need them. Just add them to the network that you created. They will connect over the wifi back to the first node.
Connect all of your devices to the new network / ssid.
It's really simple and works great. If you have a big house or one that is difficult for wifi (cement walls), you can add another EERO or two to fill int he gaps. Three will cover most home fairly well though.
Putting the EEROs in bridge will greatly simplify the setup and let the fios router still handle your firewall , etc, and it won't mess up your phone or TV if you have that.
I’ve got these MoCA adapters and I get full gigabit throughout. I did Speedtests and saw no difference connected to these vs. directly to the switch in the basement
You are correct. If indeed you do need a MoCA adapter stick with actiontec:
Actiontec MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1 Gbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA Adapter (ECB6200S02),Black,9.2" x 3" x 6.5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PR1HZBYT4THWK4YNC03J?psc=1
I live in a 3 story row home (aka old townhome) and just got FIOS about a week ago. I bought this TP-Link Mesh setup, and it works exactly as advertised.
these have worked out well for me:
https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-MoCA-Network-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B088KV2YYL/
+1
Get an eero mesh. The new wifi6 model just came out so you can get a good deal on the previous model. A 3 pack will cover most houses. https://www.amazon.com/Introducing-eero-mesh-WiFi-system-3-pack-/dp/B07WMLPSRL/
Plug the first one into your fios router with an ethernet cable.
Put it in bridge mode. This lets the fios router to keep managing your network, but gives you the better wifi of the eero.
Create a new SSID on the eero and connect your devices to that.
Place the other two eeros around your house where it makes sense to.
If you need a little more coverage, you can just move the eeros or add some. (Although you probably don't have to unless your house is large or you have materials that aren't radio friendly.)
Eero is really simple and will tune and configure itself.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYDG7WN/
Connect any LAN jack on your new router to the adapter
Connect MoCA coax jack to a coax jack in the wall
Done; your TV set top boxes are now part of your network
if you have coax in the room your signal drops, the easiest and cheapest thing you can do is buy an Actiontec Single Dual-Band Wireless Network Extender and Ethernet Over Coax Adapter (WCB3000N) from Amazon for less than $20.
https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Dual-Band-Wireless-Extender-Ethernet/dp/B00FKTMWDE
Get a couple short Ethernet cable from staples or amazon and connect it from the ont to the laptop direct and measure the speed. Then connect the ONT to the router and lan to your laptop. This will tell you if it’s the cable. Another option is a cable meter. You can get them on Amazon for under $20. https://www.amazon.com/ATian-Telephone-Tracker-Ethernet-Detector/dp/B00EDZ0C4C/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=Ethernet+meter&qid=1602727092&sr=8-16
Thanks! This is very helpful.
I have this attached to my cable modem in my apartment. Would that work for Fios in the house?
(Also currently feeling a little out of my element. I'm good with computers, but I'm much better at playing with software than hardware)
I really appreciate your input. Yes I’ll include the link here:
Actiontec MOCA Adapter for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.
I am positive that I am not losing internet on any other devices when the set top box loses connection. Internet is steady and is not wavering on my laptops, phones, etc.
Great thanks. I just both this on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PW4T3LT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am using a pair of these. Apparently they come and go on Amazon. They were $60 each when I got them and they work great so far, but I've only had them for 2 months.
goCoax MoCA Adapter, MoCA 2.5, 2.5Gbps Ethernet Over Coax, 1xGbE Port, White(WF-803M) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XYDG7WN/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_r-B2EbGM4A4SP
You can use your own router under almost any circumstance, even if you have TV service. It does require an Ethernet connection to the router. Any connection speed faster than 100/100 only works over Ethernet, so it will be installed for you. Simply connect your router's WAN/Internet port directly to the ONT's Ethernet port and everything will work just fine.
If you do have TV service and aren't using a Verizon router, you need to add a MoCA adapter for your cable boxes to be able to connect to the internet and get their guide data and video on demand. You'd plug the Ethernet port into your router, and connect the Coaxial cable that was connected to your cable modem to its Coax In port. Again, this is only if you have FiOS TV, for internet only you don't need anything extra.
Gigabit is 1Gb.
So yes, the TP-Link will do fine for basic stuff assuming you just want something cheap that you plug in and forget about. It should get close to maxing your 100/100 line over hardwire, and fairly close over WiFi.
If you spend about $10 more, this one here https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B01IUDUJE0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537307061&sr=1-3&keywords=tp+link+1200+ac will have superior performance in both WiFi and hardwire.
is pretty nice if you're into stepping up a bit from Tomato/DDWRT
Any Router that is 5GHZ that offers all bands would be good. I usually go for TP-Link branded Networking equipment, but people have their preferences.
Remember,
Just because a router has a high speed doesn't mean it will actually be that fast. What really matters is as long as your speed from your ISP is less than or equal to your router.
Here would be my personal recommendation.
Cheers
>Thanks. I have these and I now understand it. I am trying to get into my Fios router to check the mode it is operating in. It being assigned an IP from my TP Link but not working. I'll figure that out later today. I ordered this last night and if it works plan to pull the Fios router out. What else does the Fios router do in the network and does anyone know hoe the new wireless Fios mini STB's function, meaning do they need to have a Fios router in the network. Bought this:
>
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ML634YB/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks. I have these and I now understand it. I am trying to get into my Fios router to check the mode it is operating in. It being assigned an IP from my TP Link but not working. I'll figure that out later today. I ordered this last night and if it works plan to pull the Fios router out. What else does the Fios router do in the network and does anyone know hoe the new wireless Fios mini STB's function, meaning do they need to have a Fios router in the network. Bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ML634YB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are good instructions on how to cancel and signup again in the stickied post here (scroll down to community wiki):
​
​
Assuming you don't need an ONT upgrade you'll probably be able to self install an internet only plan. You can request a specific disconnect date as to minimize the downtime between the old and new service. I did this process a couple months ago and disconnected service 1 day before the new service start date so I was only out 1 day, but I think others have set them to the same date so your outage would be minimal.
Yes. Usually the will be an SC coupler in there like these.
And yes we stock cable lengths of 50 to 400 foot.
> but you need a MoCA adapter to give the cable boxes internet access for guide data, video on demand, and updates.
I've been looking into this approach since I only use the fios router as a dumb switch at this point. Wanted to replace it. Is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RB1QYR9 the thing to use here? Basically for coax: ONT -> splitter -> (FIOS box + Adapter)
then have the adapter ETH connect to the LAN?
https://www.amazon.com/Verizon-Services-Corp-Fios-Home/dp/B094SW3Y4J
​
I still cant get it working tho, need to pay the 20 bux and change my service i guess...
I'm testing on my Asus laptop using https://www.speedtest.net/. How do I know if I'm connecting to a 2.4GHz or 5GHz signal?
I think I meant using a second router as an additional access point but I worded it strangely!
Sorry I'm trying to understand, so you think getting an extender would be better than getting an additional router? I have a coax outlet in my bedroom if needed.
Ended up buying this Motorla MoCA adapter from Amazon.
Works perfectly with my Fios router. No settings to change. All I did was plug the coax end into the coax outlet. Then plugged the ethernet end into my nVidia Shield. Speedtest was lighting fast (don't recall if it was the full 300mbps). I have had zero issues streaming 4k remux content via Plex.
Buy your own router. Depending on your home layout, I woud go with a good mesh system or a router that allows you to add mesh satellite units so that you can get great WiFi throughout the house.
My personal favorite for future proofing is the TP-Link Deco AXE5300 with 2 satellite units. A bit pricey, but not that much more than the G3100 from Verizon.
For mesh systems, I like the TP-Link Deco AXE5400 Tri-Band WiFi 6E Mesh System(Deco XE75). Yes, a bit pricy but it uses WiFi 6E for its backhaul for the satellites and that leaves the other WiFi bands free to connect to your devices. ....and when you get WiFi 6E devices it will support that too.
>TP-Link Deco AXE5300 Wi-Fi 6E
You'll need to get a MoCA adapter if you use the above router in place of the Verizon Fios router. Here is a set of diagrams that show how MoCA works with Fios.
WIthout that MoCA adapter connecting interntet to the coax for your STBs, you won't have program guide, etc. Here is the MoCA adapter that I have in my setup.
I've got the Motorola MM1025s which have worked very well for me. I have 4 of them with one at my router and three others as satellites.
Here are a couple of diagrams that show how MoCA adapters can help you provide wired connections to remote areas of the house that have coax coming from a central location like you have.
I like the Motorola MM1025 MoCA Adapters and they work well for me. I happen to have a UniFi UDM router and have UniFi Access Points that connect via that MoCA network.
The easiest solution is to get a set of Mesh routers like the Eero 6 and place one of them in your basement as your base router which plugs into the ONTs ethernet port, and then backhaul the satellite units of the Eero 6 and connect them through the use of the wired connections coming from the MoCA adapters.
Amazon eero Pro 6 tri-band mesh... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085VNCZHZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They aren't cheap, but I got them at a better price on sale. 3 cover my 3000 sq ft house, to include back porch and patio. 1 or 2 would probably cover an apartment, depending on # sq ft, # of floors, and the type of construction.
Tri-band is for future proofing. (I don't currently own any wireless devices that support the new 6 GHz WiFi band.). Eero dual-band WiFi routers are cheaper.
What I like about Eero mesh WiFi is that the router pucks arbitrate with wireless devices to pick the best hot spot and best band to connect to. They all appear as one logical SSID. Phones, tablets, or laptop computers would get confused before as to which hot spot to connect to for the best signal when I had two Verizon SSIDs, one for 2.4 GHz and a different one for 5 GHz.
Good luck
Why don't you just get an extender for your office. It is an access point and has 4 ethernet ports for direct wired connections. Here is an Amazon link for the one that works with the G1100 Router.
Put your router in the basement and plug the WAN port into the ONTs ethernet port and have verizon switch your service from the coax to the ethernet port.
Why not get a fiber cable and install it via some conduit from the existing termination of the exterior Fios fiber cable to the location where you want your ONT to be. It comes in varying lengths so should be no issue.
Alternative is to just run the conduit and have the service technician run their fiber cable through it as long as you have run a pull string up front.
If setting up a VPN on AWS is too much for you (since you're taking a course to even learn about Linux and CLI), some VPN providers let you get static IP. I know Private Internet Access has that option. Might be a way easier and faster way to get things up and running for your course right now. You can mess with AWS later if you're curious.
Could be some sort of peering limitation with Verizon. NordVPN might have peered directly with Comcast providing a speed advantage. Do they have a few different servers you can try? I've never used Nord personally, but the services I have used typically offer a number of servers, even within the same geographic area.
In general, though, I would expect a VPN connection to impact your speed and latency. My personal feeling is they are not needed when connecting from home but I respect that others might feel differently.
I've been a Verizon FiOS Gigabit customer for years and have never had issues until recently. Now I'm seeing the same issue you're having where certain sites load slowly, and I have tons of buffering issues on youtube, despite flawless gigabit speedtests on . However, if I sign into NordVPN, I have ZERO issues with websites/youtube. Definitely seems like Verizon is throttling us.
ASUS AX5700 WiFi 6 Gaming Router (RT-AX86S) – Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router, up to 2500 sq ft, Lifetime Free Internet Security, Mesh WiFi Support, Gaming Port, True 2 Gbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GP8PCF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K0RGDXQK3CYHKCB0K1JZ
I'd probably get something a little newer than that, something like the AX-55
The FNA worked fine.
I went back to my room to test again and saw that coax signal would cut off every few minutes. Then I disconnect from the splitter and connect the primary coax to the FNA and the signal became stable for a long period time. I connect the FNA with and without the splitter multiple times yesterday and came to the conclusion that it is the splitter or the cables connected from the splitter that go out to the FNA and STB, that is causing signal drops.
This was the splitter I was using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRYS8YZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
These were the coax cable I was using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LETAMM2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I ordered a Verizon branded splitter, same as the ones using throughout the house currently, to test it out in my room.
My nephew got the Eero 6 dual-band mesh Wi-Fi 6 system and it worked very well for him. I tested it at his house and had very good throughput with the satellite units connected to the base via mesh. I would start with that. If the throughput is not good enough, then you can always get MoCA adapters to backhaul the satellites.
I would not mess with the extender any more.
I used this splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRYS8YZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Everything was tightly connected. I went back doing the first method again and connect the primary coax to FNA again. Coax signal is stable for a long time and no cut off (for now). I ordered a Verizon splitter just in case to test it out.
For now, I come to conclusion that the FNA is just fickle.
I guess whatever is easiest for you. You could place a 14 inch media cabinet where is come inside and place the switch in there then run ethernets wherever they are needed from there. Running one to a jack for you PC and another to a ceiling or wall mount wireless AP.
Leviton 47605-14E SMC 14-Inch Series, Structured Media Enclosure only, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZPF5K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_S1E2BCQMAHV0HVTV9TF6?psc=1
That MG7315 is a cable modem/router but I guess you could disable DHCP server and connect to one of the LAN ports to make it and Access Point. However is is wireless N so you probably won't get much more than 75 mbps on wifi.
You could also just run the all the way to the desk and get a desktop wireless AP.
NETGEAR Wireless Desktop Access Point (WAC104) - WiFi 5 Dual-Band AC1200 Speed | 3 x 1G Ethernet Ports | Up to 64 Devices | WPA2 Security | Desktop | MU-MIMO | Supports 3 SSIDs | 802.11ac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFSDZCU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_35P9AP98C2Y4DTQKMNMJ
>TP-link Archer AX55
Do you mean this?
https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-WiFi-AX3000-Smart-Router/dp/B09G5W9R6R/
What does it have over the AX1800? I mean, what is the advantage of it over that? I don't know what it means to have 160MHz channels.
The G3100 is a 4x4 router. Equivalents would be the Asus RT-AX88U (also $300) or the TP-Link Archer AX6000 ($250).
Putting aside the speed change for a moment, the only way you are going to get service ahead of the tech coming out is if you have an ONT installed and you can access it. I suppose one small exception is that is if the ONT exists somewhere else in the apartment building, is already powered on, and is connected to coax.
The first step as others have mentioned is to find the ONT, if one exists. While Verizon typically installs them in individual units, I know of scenarios where this is not the case - in my buddy's condo his is installed in a wiring closet down the hall.
If you can find the ONT, you can order something like this:
You'd connect one to the coax cable that heads to your apartment by the ONT, one to a coax port in your unit, and then you can connect an ethernet cable between that unit and the router.
Essentially it would look like this:
ONT - Ethernet - MoCA Adapter - Coax - MoCA Adapter - Ethernet - Router
In my market, Amazon says they are available for same-day delivery with Prime.
I don't think Verizon offers the 100/100 option anymore, so this is your best bet while you wait for a tech.
But first see if you can find an ONT. You can see if your apartment building's management will let you into the wiring closet on your floor. If you can't, then you're just going to have to wait for the tech.
There's also the Archer A7 (currently $53 after $7 coupon) which is what I currently use with Fios on the 300Mbps plan. Currently have it set up with another spare router acting as an AP for 5GHz signal outside.
It's been recommended a lot over on the Home Networking subreddit for budget consumer grade routers.
Also, if you don't have any WiFi 6 devices and probably won't have any WiFi 6 devices, you could probably settle for an A7 which is WiFi 5 only (which is literally fine for most people) compared to the Asus routers which are WiFi 6 capable.
Set up is pretty simple, plug router into ONT, plug laptop into router (or connect to preconfigured network over WiFi), navigate to admin panel (192.168.0.1) and set up the router's network name, password, and admin access panel password, and all the other configuration stuff, if you want, but it's not necessary. Generally, you just need to set admin panel password, network name and password, and move on. Been using it for almost a year with basically no issue/downtime because my first one did initially break for some reason (speeds were inconsistent, but ONT speeds were consistent), but TP-Link did just RMA it, send a new one out, place a hold on card for price of new router, then I returned the broken on and they lifted the hold. Had no downtime there as WiFi speeds were still usable.
>I turned down the router rent, I have a Google Nest Wi-Fi. Router is plugged into the wall in the living room, then I’m running this cable: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cable-Meters-Network-Internet/dp/B00GBBSRKW into this box https://www.amazon.com/Android-Amlogic-S905W-Support-Ethernet/dp/B09D8ZV696 and I usually watch some live streaming or tv shows on it.
The ethernet jack in the wall - did you confirm that it’s wired and terminated properly? Did you try connecting your Nest router directly into the ONT and confirm the bandwidth you are getting?
>Should I get a new router? Is there a better cable I could use? The guy was in the closet I guess that’s where the ONT is and the google nest flat wire is going from the wall to the router. Everything is within a foot from eachother.
No you don’t. Try the troubleshooting steps first.
I use the Actiontec MoCA 2.5 1Gbps ones:
Limited-time deal: ScreenBeam MoCA 2.5 Network Adapter for Higher Speed Internet, Ethernet Over Coax - Single Add-On Adapter for Existing MoCA Network (Model: ECB6250S02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088KVYZGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_935446KNETBFP7DT4V34?psc=1
That "Fios Network Extender" is what you could use with your G1100. I had one and it worked OK.
However if you go with a non Fios router then you would want to go with a couple of these, one at your router and one in your room and hard wire your PC. Or add a switch and hardwire your PC as well as use one port to backhaul to a Mesh Satellite Wi-Fi device.
Awesome. So I just found this one and it seems like a great deal. Especially since it can go up to 2500mbps. That way if I ever upgrade to 2.0gb fios when they roll it out I’ll be ready.
goCoax MoCA 2.5 Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax(Single Pack). MoCA 2.5. 1x GbE Port. Provide 2.5Gbps Bandwidth with existing coaxial Cables. Best Companion for Home mesh Wi-Fi, White(WF-803M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYDG7WN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9QADSKYFJEAYMP3JWJ82
i have this one and its great https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J6CFM39/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like the Motorola MM1025 adapter that you can get from Amazon for $90 right now. It has a 2.5Gbps ethernet port and works great. I have three of them.
Thank you for your help. I ended up buying this 6-way splitter- couldn't find an Amphenol 6way splitter. Should be ok?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088KVYZGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The cable goes on this, the ethernet from it goes into a Lan port on your router.
Well, step 1. Find it.
You can buy Cat5e or Cat6 cables for relatively cheap prices on Amazon. I've used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017P34W6C/ and it works just fine. I've bought a few ethernet cables from them (specifically the flat ones) and they haven't failed on me.
Not sure if used is something you would consider but I went with this one for around $40 in like new condition. It's been perfectly fine for the past 2 weeks I've had it. There's a couple for $33 in good condition if you're into that.
Thanks for the reply! Yes, it's Fios.
I see the router you mentioned on Amazon for $40.
https://www.amazon.com/FIOS-Verizon-Gateway-Quantum-G1100/dp/B01ETSPPEO
They use WiFi for general surfing on a laptop and light smartphone stuff, but they also use if for watching movies stored on a MacBook and streaming it to a television with Chromecast. Will that router suffice? Also, they get pretty good WiFi connectivity in the basement and they would want that to stay the same also. Thanks again.
I have always had luck with Asus and they allow the most tweaks in my experience. Definitely look for an 'AX' router since those have the current Wi-Fi bands. This is the one I have for my Gig connection:
ASUS RT-AX88U AX6000 Dual-Band Wifi Router, Aiprotection Lifetime Security by Trend Micro, Aimesh Compatible for Mesh WIFI System, Next-Gen Wifi 6
Are the Tivo branded ECB6200 compatible with the WCB6200q? I'm seeing a lot more of these on Amazon and eBay.
If your cable boxes are already connected with coaxial you wouldn’t use their Ethernet ports. Or maybe you could feed the boxes with Ethernet but I don’t see the point.
With any mesh system you’d plug the main mesh point into the Verizon router or into the ONT if you want to get rid of the Verizon router, and then the other mesh points into Ethernet. If you are using MoCA it would be very simple and the wiring is more or less already done for you.
I’d recommend you pick up these mesh routers (there are 3 in the pack, and they are compact and perform well for my gigabit fiber) and then get some MoCA adapters, Actiontec is good and there’s also Motorola, GoCoax etc and GoCoax is cheap rn - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYDG7WN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_10K6YBPSEJTX43SB0APG and these adapters have a coax passthrough port so if you’re putting your mesh wifi points near your tv boxes, you would connect a coaxial between the wall and the MoCA adapter input, and then a small piece of coaxial between the MoCA adapter output and the tv box. And then your main mesh wifi (on the Asus it has Ethernet in and Ethernet out) would go right to the ONT, and to a MoCA adapter- the ONT connects to Ethernet in, and a MoCA adapter to Ethernet out
r/cordcutters and stream from a third party company to some little box or stick.
https://lifehacker.com/live-tv-streaming-showdown-sling-vs-playstation-vue-v-1791749070
(note this link is 2 years old, so there may be better articles on this by now)
Use an Ethernet switch to expand the number of Ethernet ports you have. Connect an ethernet cable between the Verizon router and one of the ports on the switch (it doesn't matter which one, but I usually use the last port). Connect your other Ethernet devices to either the switch or the router's remaining Ethernet ports (again it doesn't really matter where you plug them in) and then run an Ethernet cable upstairs for your Google wifi and for your computer. Any basic Ethernet switch will do, get a gigabit Ethernet switch for best performance. I use the netgear 5-port and 8-port switches I linked but they're really all the same, they are completely plug and play
Well, what's your budget?
If you don't care about Wi-Fi 6, or don't have a Wi-Fi 6 capable device, something like this works fine for consumer stuff: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Smart-Wifi-Router/dp/B08C3YBBHM/
Basically, the Archer A7, but newer.
MoCA adapters like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KS6HVVY
convert the Ethernet LAN signal and put it on the coax in the 1125-1675 Mhz range. If you have a house with lots of coax, you can use these to have the equivalent of a whole house ethernet network. The Fios routers use MoCA coming out of their coax (G1100 MoCA 2.0 and G3100 Moca 2.5). If the Fios router is connected at one point, putting MoCA adapters in other rooms allow you to plug in ethernet device. Verizon even has some with 4 ports.
Would this be a good alternative to the Actiontec MoCA adaptor shown in the diagram?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KS6HVVY?th=1
Motorola MoCA 2.5 Adapter. It looks like the Actiontec generally comes in a two-pack, and I only need one.
Yes, kind of figure out what your coax network looks like in your house and what splitters link each strand. Mine all terminate in the basement so I have one big central splitter. If you have runs that are not used, recommend that your disconnect them to maximize signals in what you need.
I also use these to terminate unused coax ports or ends in rooms to keep the signal as strong as possible: https://www.amazon.com/Terminator-10-Pack-RFAdapter-Splitter-Coaxial/dp/B07VWHX2FS
With that size house you're probably going to need multiple access points. Do you have Ethernet between the first or second floor? Multiple rooms wired for cable?
The best solution would be multiple routers connected via Ethernet. I like the Asus Routers like the RT-AX3000 which can be linked via AiMesh with wired backhaul. You manage them all from a single web interface just like it was only one router. If you're a little more technically inclined, you can get a single gateway like the Ubiquity EdgeRouter X and use access points such as the Ubiquity Access Point U6 Lite.
If you don't have, or can't run, ethernet, but you do have cable, you can buy MoCA adapters (such as these) and use them to connect each of your routers to the cable. You can get whatever routers you like, like the Asus ones above, or something cheaper like the TP-Link Archer AX50 or Archer AX55. I'd go for, at a minimum, something that supports 802.11ax, and preferably at least AX3000 (~2.4Gbps on 5 Ghz and ~600Mbps on 2.4 Ghz) speeds.
The third option is a wireless mesh system like Eero, Nest Wifi, TP-Line Deco, etc. A wireless mesh system is always going to perform worse than a wired solution.
With that many square feet I would go for a Mesh system. Unless you can put the one router you have in the center of the house where all areas get a good signal, especially in the 5Ghz spectrum, the Mesh system allows you to have multiple locations and if 2 APs are not enough you can always expand it.
Amazon has an Orbi system that has been refurbished for a good price point: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Whole-Tri-Band-System-RBK752/dp/B08JPY5NM6
You need to get a Coax to Ethernet MoCA adapter similar to this one. Connect the coax to the side that used to go to the router and the ethernet end to the WAN port of your router.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KS6HVVY
There are other brands that you can consider.
The goCoax models are MUCH cheaper and also work great. I've been running 4 of them for well over a year.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYDG7WN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>able between the ONT and a LAN port on the router. The solution is to turn it back into Ethernet, and connect i
wow, thx for the thorough explanation! so a 2pack of these should do the trick https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7O3X0/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1 ?
If you really wanted to save a buck or two, you can use Google voice and port your number. I did this with my old DOCSIS provider, i ported the number to GV and connected my phones to an Obihai Obi200 (this box used to be like $40 idk why it’s double the price now).
GV only allows port ins from mobile numbers, but that’s no problem, I just ported my number first to Sprint, and then to GV. If you have two phones there’s also the Obi 202 which has two jacks, you could also use that for a separate fax machine line if you wanted. The box connects to Ethernet and is very easy to set up with a GV account, and it’s free to use and you can also install the GV app on your cell phone and receive landline calls on your cell phone if you want
These aren’t MoCA adapters, these are G.hn, which is a different (not as good I think) protocol
I use these ones which are MoCA
If you can run an ethernet cable through the wall, and you don't care about speeds too much, the https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP110-Outdoor-V3-Installation-Controller/dp/B07CG3YRTR/ is $45. It only has a 100Mbps ethernet port, so it's not going to be super fast, but it will give you a strong signal from 50 yards. If you want a bit more speed, https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-MU-MIMO-Gigabit-EAP225-Outdoor/dp/B07953S2FD/ is $70, but it support 5Ghz and has a gigabit ethernet port. Both come with an adapter you plug the ethernet cable into inside the house to send power over ethernet to the access point, so you only need one cable running outside.
Using admin, log into router and check logs.
Look for repeated admin attempts from an outside IP . Google IP. Something like This.
In advanced setting, or something close. Block IP range 121.128.0.0 - 121.159.255.255
Do you have another router to throw in place of the pfsense just to test? Or plug directly into your NIC. 940 up shows it's provisioned correctly, so it's unlikely to be on Verizon's side (I say this because if it was provisioned incorrectly as like 300/300 then you'd never get 940). And no they won't really do much without a Verizon router connected. I got basically the same result to the same server (https://www.speedtest.net/result/9270994161) so not seeing any issues. Could it be just more usage than normal due to covid? Dunno.
with a Gig speed i upload a 19 GB file to pcloud, google drive and mega in 2minutes. this is the speed i get with optimum now. https://www.speedtest.net/result/9204796181.png https://www.speedtest.net/result/9204796181 it takes hours to upload a 19 GB file with "UPLOAD Mbps 29.01".
Then just choose any Ethernet cord length you think you need plus a little extra to be safe. I use these ones (they make other lengths of cable, including 100 Ft) for long runs and for short runs any old cheap cable will do
Please no. Go for the 200/200 or 400/400. I have well over 10 wireless devices connected and 3 LAN devices with usually 3-4 devices always in use on a 300/300Mbps plan (200/200 plan but overprovisioned to 300/300) and I pretty much never notice a slowdown beside when my router is the issue.
You will probably never actually fully utilize the entire 200 down or up at any given time.
As for router, buy your own. Gives you more control and you can always use it for another ISP if you end up moving locations, especially if the ISP doesn't include a router for free.
A router like this would suffice: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085288G3M/
I've been using the Archer A7 which is enough for my network, the router I linked supports WiFi AX (or WiFi 6 / 802.11AX) so you can expect that to last you a few years when WiFi 6 will probably be more common (most devices now are just beginning to support WiFi 6, so unless you know you have a WiFi 6 capable device, you should set it to WiFi 5 or WiFi 802.11AC). It's also on a 25% discount so slightly more than what I paid for the Archer A7 while being significantly more powerful. Something like this is what you're looking for.