Don't know about 3s, but both 2s and 3 I own have the license key in the BIOS, and I didn't need to go through any activation process. On the first turning on, Windows went through initial setup (starting from language select), and after that booted ready to use.
Both 2s and 3 have special recovery partition to clean (re)install of the OEM Windows, with all the drivers included. But an attempt to install Windows from any other source would require a separate key.
You may try Product Key app, which should show you OEM BIOS key.
If it's not waking from sleep, it could be that you're getting BCMPCIEDHD63 (network adapter) errors while in sleep mode. Check your Windows event log and report back. Also, use http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html to check if you're getting BSODs while in sleep mode. Let me know and we'll troubleshoot from there.
Regarding having to "mash keys" to wake - except for the times it doesn't wake at all - does it wake quickly/normally if you just press the power button? I stopped trying to wake my Pocket with key presses long ago as it just requires too many presses. Not sure why, could be because the keyboard controller turns off/on the keyboard intermittently during sleep to save power or something.
As actually using it I think that the Win2 is vastly more usable in bed, bus, train, car, chair and while standing. I'm not sure that I'll be wanting to type so much on either device and probably the above paragraph is about the maximum I'd want to write with either device. Perhaps the Pocket is better as a programming/networking companion sitting to the side of my notebook since it will be easier to push a few keys here and there.
However, the Win2 is likely to have VT-d and so I would be able to play with Qubes 4 since I'd be buying a larger M.2. It looks to have a M.2 that is even easier to swap than the great Thinkpads of old. That is really quite a huge thing really. Actually even after being able to game on it the possibility of being able to submit a bug report on how Qubes doesn't quite work well at all would be super cool. Hell, it might even be able to generate the report using their tooling even if my neck ends up getting permanently stuck at 45 degrees. Ideally you'd be able to flip the sideways screen 90 degrees to stretch it out the other way. I think that VT-d will seal the deal for me if it comes out with it in the BIOS.
So how to get the damn thing into my clothing in warm weather? It might just be impossible but I'll probably be able to figure it out in the winter no problem.
Out of stock, but I think they're on Amazon as well.
Edit: I think this is it, on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Google-Nexus-Tablet-Sleeve-GLE10100/dp/B00EURJUD2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517002478&sr=8-4&keywords=Nexus+7+Tablet+Black+sleeve
I use the Microsoft wedge mouse. Their surface edition has been on sale for some time on amazon and is really good quality (plus it is very small without being unuasble) Amazon link
It uses bluetooth, reconnects really fast and holds its battery for a looooong time.
I have one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07ZHDWYTL
The P3 fits in the section the console's in in thieir pics, charge brick in the other section etc. Seems to work great although I set it up to be worn more like a bum bag than a shoulder thing so it doesn't bounce about so much.
You might also want to take a look at map-case type shoulder bags. I keep coming back to versions of this one. Their quality is honestly terrible, but they're functional and cheap. That one is just big enough for a Macbook Air, so it's cavernous with a GPD Pocket 3.
If you were carrying two modules, this might work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KR8CRQP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just have an extra and when I just experimented, the single module moved too freely, but if you laid two side-by-side, I think they would stay steady, maybe with a piece of padding b/w the two.
Just a thought, and free earphones with every purchase :)
Don't know how much protection you want, but this Nexus 7 zippered case is form-fitting:
Very easy. Be mindful of the energy consumption, and heat produced by whichever SSD you're looking at. I went with the P31 bc it doesn't use much power, or generate much heat.
I bought these for my 3D printed joycon adapter.
Max depth into the chassis is about 4mm.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A9NHSRG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You will need to use a dremel/cutoff wheel to shorten these to the correct depth. 4mm+ whatever your handle depth is.
Match the voltage, but ensure you get equal or gigher amperage. If Voltage is doesn't match it won't take, but it can dynamically adjust the Amperage, even if charger is rated way over the spec.
I use this one
UGREEN 65W USB C Charger... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B091BGMKYS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Think of Voltage like Language, and Amperage like accent.
You can adjust for someone's accent, but you can't adjust for not 'speaking' (or being compatible) a different language altogether :)
This is my favorite charger, I've purchased a few dozen of them for my users. Works great and it comes with a 6' cable too.
I've been using a Anker PowerPort Atom 3 45W Slim, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0841J6CMK . It's profile is a great fit in my bag and Anker is generally a quality brand.
Thank you. I ordered this one:
https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B09SZ61XWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It seems a bit better than the first, but of course still on the cheap side, but I realize I should have looked a bit clearer on the specs.
By GP3 do you mean the Pocket 3? If so, I use this battery which does 65w out. The Pocket 3 only needs 45w but this allows me full speed simultaneous charging of laptop and phone.
Buy one of those mini Windows tablets (used Asus vivo tab note 8, Dell venue Pro 8, Nuvision 8 inch tablet etc with Atom Cherry Trail/ Bay Trail) if you can still find one. Probably Chinese manufacturer like Chuwi/teclast etc might still produce small windows tablet with newer CPU like Celeron and Pentium.
Those tabs cost 100-300$ depend on condition. Then get an universal keyboard case with mouse and you are good. 200-400$ total, could be cheaper if you buy used.
Here is my trusty asus with case Or you can buy this unbranded mini laptop but beware that the screen is a lowly 1048x600 TN display with terrible viewing angle.
I bought this one because it's almost the max capacity for air travel in the US and it can do 45w out for the Pocket 3 and 30w for my phone at the same time. The packing and manual looked and felt the same as Anker, Ravpower, etc. The battery is fatter than I'd like, but that also means it's less tall and wide so I just had to find a different pocket in my bag.
Dock: Technet TK-DK001
Type: USB-C
Ports:
Price/Link (normal link, i make no money on it):
$79.99 (USD) / https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098X2PMZB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Initial Setup/Compatibility:
Only have had it setup for a day but triple display will work fine (using two Dell 1080p touchscreen monitors and the Pocket 3 Screen).
Feels of quality build, all metal based case and some weight so cables don't pull it off my desk.
Included AC Adapter/Brick and 100W PD is very nice.
Status: Fully working dual HDMI output dock with PD for under $100!!! yay! Will update after using more if any issues.
CalDigit Thunderbolt 4 Element... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FQX8MXQ works for me with a Razer Core v1 daisy chained with both PD and eGPU. Expensive though. I tried a Lenovo ThinkPad Thunderbolt dock but had some intermittent charging and TB passthrough didn't work with the eGPU, that was a used device though...
I have a Dell D6000 dock with my work laptop and it appears to work perfectly with my Pocket 3:
https://www.amazon.com/Dell-452-BCYT-D6000-Universal-Black/dp/B071YTQBXM
I haven't tested the display ports on it, just because I haven't had to... but PD works, USB devices work, networking works, etc.
Spent the weekend designing and printing this quick and dirty Joy-Con attachment for the Pocket 3. Print time is approximately 9 hours. I will post the .STL file once it's been uploaded to Thingiverse. The screw holes for the rails will have to be drilled manually and carefully since I'm not sure if third party Joy-Con wrist-strap attachment thingies have different sized screws or not.
Not a hard case, but a padded sleeve I found that fits well:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G5MW59F
It's a tight fit the first day, but I let it sit overnight and now it's pretty decent fit. Comes in and out with little effort and provides a little bit of padding when I toss it into my pack.
Not exactly what you're looking for but hope it helps...
There are lots of plastic screen protectors on amazon, but I'm still looking for a glass one...
It depends on the dock as well as voltage from the charger.
I tried the 45W charging without success on a dock, then used a 65W charger and all of a sudden the dock runs all ports (I tested 2 HDMI outputs as well as 1 USB output, 1 MicroSD card reader on the dock, headphone jack, the whole thing)
I have this dock https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08XJWMNZ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
As mentioned, it craps out if trying the stock charger GPD issued (45W Power brick) but it runs without issues once I use 65W.
Your dock is likely not being fed enough power or compatible voltage relative to the P2's specs
I searched and found this one; HTC Shift x9500, it looks perfect (3:41 full keyboard, 3:46 close up of keys). It is 2.5 cm wider than Pocket, but it fits 15 keys in a row and has wider "keyboard bezels" and I'm only asking for 12 keys.
https://youtu.be/6Fki3sqrg4U?t=3m41s
https://www.gsmarena.com/htc_shift-1934.php
What do you think of this one ?
Just circling back here now. Here is an updated EFI - https://gofile.io/?c=DsnADc
I'll document some video and hopefully a guide later this week when I have some time.
My P2 Max is on 0.24 Firmware. I believe that this would not work for earlier firmwares. The 20190919 Chinese keyboard Firmware messes with the trackpad. I wish I had more time to devote to this.
There's another guy on Insanelymac working on this also which is helping me put this together when I can. His latest EFI is linked above. Working on my machine with 10.14.6. Hope this helps.
You're going to spend 1/3rd of device price on peripherals? I'm using this device as an on-site field tech doing all sorts of hacker stuff with it and all I use is a $3 usb 2.0 ethernet thing and a free after rebate usb 3.0 hub, a bluetooth mouse, and a $1 multi-card reader.
And if I had to type a lot on it I'd use a $30 compact mechanical keyboard instead, or a $5 bluetooth keyboard. Those folding ones are really bad for doing actual work and your fingers will fall off.
Don't know how good it is now, but when we used to have issues like this on old UMPCs, AutoHotKey was a godsend, and could essentially do everything you are describing currently.
here the solution:
1.Download Borderless Gaming app: https://github.com/Codeusa/Borderless-Gaming
2.Add " -window" to the end of your shortcut game to make the game run in window mode..for example: "C:\Program Files (x86)\WarCraft III\Frozen Throne.exe" -window
3.Run Borderless Gaming, add your process Game to "Favorites (automatic)" list, now enjoy your game run in fullscreen mode.
Thanks for reply. Sound works with your audio patches but no perfectly, crackling noise happens more often in online video(youtube, flash video) than local media files playing, i think it depends on cpu useage.
Here is my system information from alsa-info.sh script, maybe you can dig more in it.
http://www.alsa-project.org/db/?f=f93f3be1ec2f896ba6670d20b6e37f589b44fd10
Also another error message from xorg.log about alsa
Jul 13 11:12:17 [pulseaudio] [alsa-sink-1] alsa-sink.c: ALSA woke us up to write new data to the device, but there was actually nothing to write. Jul 13 11:12:17 [pulseaudio] [alsa-sink-1] alsa-sink.c: Most likely this is a bug in the ALSA driver 'snd_soc_sst_cht_bsw_rt5645'. Please report this issue to the ALSA developers. Jul 13 11:12:17 [pulseaudio] [alsa-sink-1] alsa-sink.c: We were woken up with POLLOUT set -- however a subsequent snd_pcm_avail() returned 0 or another value < min_avail.
The best tool to reformat an SD card is SD Memory Card Formatter. And h2testw is the best tool to check whether the cards capacity is real or fake.
FYI Lexar SDXC 512GB 633x works just fine in my Mix 3 out of the box.
Awesome. Thank you. I did find ProduKey in the interim and it seemed to work. I'll also give that tool a go to confirm the key that it gave me.
Kernel 4.12 is still in testing stage, actual is 4.12rc7 https://www.kernel.org/ (rc=release candidate), android hanet newest stable kernel like linux distros. And finally, Android have little bit different kernel and older than mainline. Intel don't release full codes for cherry trail too.
From what I’ve heard the OM2 does get quite hot to the touch, but that’s actually a good thing as it means heat is properly dissipated and keeps the CPU cooler. I’d suggest installing something like OpenHardwareMonitor to see what temperature your CPU is at, you’ll probably (or hopefully, I guess :D) find that it’s performing quite well.
These kinds of hubs seem to want to suck up quite a bit of power themselves, which basically increases the required output from the charger you’re using.
While I don’t have the same hub you have, I’ve got one from Satechi and I actually tested it when I just got it, because somehow the MacBook 12” I was using at the time wouldn’t be able to charge with its official charger when using the adapter. As it turned out, the adapter always uses (or lowers when passing through) about 12 Watts even without anything plugged into any of its ports, so the MacBook received only 17W from the 29W charger.
I haven’t actually tested this on Windows, but I think you might be able to use something like OpenHardwareMonitor to check how much power is coming in or going out with the adapter and without it plugged in, but if your P2 is not charging now it’s pretty much certain not enough juice is coming in, so you’ll need a charger with more juice, basically, or perhaps a different USB-C hub, if there’s one out there that isn’t taking up such a big chunk for no real reason.
alright, but isn't possible to just login with a local account? I tested your distribution from live usb (but I'm looking forward to install it as soon as eventully you'll get sound working) and I haven't used any google account. I also remember using local accounts on cloudready's chromium os version. In my opinion being able to strip away all the google callbacks and fix all the privacy sensible stuff like the guys at https://github.com/Eloston/ungoogled-chromium are doing would be make it the best device on earth at the moment. I don't have any experience in developing on chromeos, but do you think that it would be eventually possible to integrate the patches and modification od ungoogled-chromium to chromium os?
That might be the replacement for your keyboard. There's a youtube of a ONB3 teardown; looks a little daunting, but you could risk it if your kb is no good.
This is the one I'm planning on getting: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XCBVQRT
It seems like the title/description are wrong but it has HDMI, 3x USB 3.0, ethernet, usb c power in, sd and micro sd card slots.
With bated breath, I pulled off the four keycaps and successfully switched them. I didn't find a true sweet spot of a corner for the initial pull, I just ended up finding the corner of least resistance, depending on the key. A credit card is indeed the right tool; anything thinner will bend, I think.
I was lucky enough not to screw up the switches, I didn't break the backlight, and the switched keys have yet to fly off, so I feel very fortunate.
As an aside:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087D2GQW9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These transparent stickers aren't right for this venture. Their white lettering is close to the keycaps', and without the backlight, the lettering can be changed, but the original lettering bleeds through when backlit.
No, like the clip shown in this photo
It clips from the top onto the chip while it's still in the unit.
For what it's worth, I've had good luck with the G-Ting hub from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/G-TING-Multiport-Converter-ChromeBook-Charging/dp/B01EAIV5H4/
Pass-through charging works, and I have been able to use multiple USB ports at once. Even powered a USB DVD-ROM drive. I haven't done extensive testing or anything, but so far so good.
Right now I'm copying about 50GB of files from an external SSD connected to the hub to a USB stick in the Pocket's onboard USB port and it seems relatively fast. It just gives you 3 USB A ports and the passthrough for power, though, so nothing fancy. But for the price I think it's pretty good.
Cool idea, but the price is insane. There are a couple, slightly larger, alternatives on Amazon which are cheaper.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Perixx-PERIPAD-501-Professional-Wired-Touchpad/dp/B001CX85I8
FYI I have Lexar 512GB microSD (633x rated one) in my One Mix 3 for scheduled backups. It is U3/A2 rated, up to 60MB/s write speed measured during backups. Right now at Amazon Prime for $53.
Got one! Thank you. Its for the iPad 4 or 5 and my OMY3s fits perfectly. Here is the Amazon link and thank you for the great advice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K71CKCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Don't suppose you have a voltmeter on hand and can measure the voltage across the battery? It's possible the battery discharged below what the charging controller determines to be empty and thus needs a little boost to get back up to a chargeable value (LiPo batteries have a nominal voltage of 3.7v and are considered empty by the controller around 3.0v. Sometimes they wont charge the battery if the voltage drops significantly below 3v as a safety precaution).
I've used this on a surface power cover to manually recharge the cells that were dead from sitting unused for several years; the cover was brand new, otherwise. That power supply has a little multimeter in it and got the job done for me, though it is little more than a toy you'd give to a kid who showed an interest in electronics. Though if the battery is actually worn out and dead you don't want to try forcing a charge onto it, it could explode.
In terms of portability/ergonomics, I believe the Go has only three available angles of its kickstand whereas the Pro has an unlimited number.
I mention this because you were contemplating its use as an actual laptop. Even the Pro can be tricky on an actual lap. I've used this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDQYM4P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
which gives great stability, but only one angle of usage.
That said, you might look at the Pro 6 since its price has dropped considerably as the release of the Pro 7 draws closer.
I just bought the Pro 6 and am very satisfied. It rocks Linux (with jakeday kernel) and it wouldn't cost much more than P2 Max--though I wish I had a Max as well :)
May be unrelated (especially as you see your router), but check the channel of your wifi router, and if on 2.4ghz and using higher channels, as channel 13, force lower channel, as channel 1 or 6 and try once again to connect. You can check this with a mobile app on your smartphone, as Wifi Analyzer : https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en. Try also with another WPA/WPA2 security type just to test (you could also test with another password).
> DisplayLink
Yeah, this doesn't give out DisplayPort signals... It usually outputs HDMI and VGA. Think something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Graphics-Multiple-1920x1080-Chromebook/dp/B004AIJE9G Not necessarily this particular one though, since I have not tested it.
Here's a post from them directly: https://www.displaylink.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65301 Seems like the old DL-1x5 chips now have an open sourced driver and the new chips have a closed source one for Linux.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K77JMS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It fits the GPD Pocket just fine and has about 1cm in all directions so it may bounce around, but it's a bit more secure. Some people sell large GPS cases which supposedly fit too. For mine, I cut a hole on the right side to let the air pass out and I can charge it without taking it out of the case. The strap that holds it down is worthless since it goes from the screen to the nub (and you can't use it and use the device at the same time).
Plus, it has room to put in a USB-C battery backup device and the cables for the unit too.
A Switch case will work in a pinch, but it stretches the case so I wouldn't recommend it. Still better than nothing...
If you're still in the lookout for a storage solution, I've been using Sandisk Ultra Fit 256GB. It's the only one I've found with this size with the super small form factor. So far so good. Amazon link
Maybe a 3.5mm jack type issue (TRS vs TRRS) ? Did you test with different cables ? Maybe you need an adapter (such as an Y-type with microphone on one output, and headphone on the other) ? this kind of thing : https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=aht
This will work perfect right https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Micro-HDMI-HDMI-Cable/dp/B014I8TZXW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518858712&sr=8-5&keywords=amazon+basics+high+speed+micro-hdmi
I need it for tomorrow and that exact one is on amazon prime now so can add have that delivered in the am rather than go to bestbuy and pay 3x the price. I assume it will just want to double check.
I am using that case currently. It's pretty packed since I have the GPD pocket, an Anker bank, a USB-C hub, a USB light, USB-C cable, micro USB cable, USB 4 port hub, and a 30W power brick.
Definitely not meant to handle that much, but it can. Let me know if you like that one/has a small footprint.
My end game is to try and find a case like this that will fit the gpd pocket as well as cables. I always have a backpack or a shoulder bag with me but hoping to find one that will work. https://www.amazon.com/Shockproof-iMangoo-Protective-Resistant-Accessories/dp/B01M66RT22/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1517287291&sr=8-14&keywords=cord+organizer+travel
It was this hub https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J4BO0RO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had the original charger plugged into the hub. The charger by itself isn't charging the device either. I just plugged the hub into my galaxy S8 and the phone charged just fine. While I was waiting for replies i tried a different USB C cable and wall port. no luck.
Thats still a pretty big reader to shove in there. Wouldnt something like this had been better if you only wanted microsd?: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028R3NCU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cool job getting it working, although id be seriously worried about the potential for shorting pins given the tight tolerances there.
Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra is very liquid and does not bridge gaps. You will need thicker paste. Adding 2 mm thickness of good thermal pads above the heat pipe on the CPU will conduct heat to the aluminum back. It makes a big difference.
I used Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease Paste. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU
with
Fujipoly smart Extreme X-e Thermal Pad 11.0 W/mK https://www.amazon.com/Fujipoly-mod-smart-Extreme-Thermal/dp/B00ZSJQX0E I put thermal pads on the heat pipe from above the CPU to halfway to the fan. During prime 95 stress testing 100% CPU at max speed (2559hz) I sometimes hit 70C on the CPU.
Thanks, chill633 and JonSAlberta. Thanks for posting and digging up these interesting links.
I may have to break down and get an actual usb-c charging hub.
This is the 2-port hub I'm using:
It's cheap but it's bulky and it looks as if I'll have to spring for something like JonSAlberta's usb-c hub.
Bought a couple of 6-ince usb splitters, but despite their marketing, they really only power from one port.
A small workaround for this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXKW6S5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The rough-headed one seems to rise above the keyboard no matter what modification.
But the rimless, flathead cap in the picture can have its second square cut away with an Exacto blade and maybe a mm cut from its bottom. That will let it sit just below the keyboard and so far, it's proven less slippery than the stock blue cap.
The roughhead's interior square is more apparent and more difficult to cut without damage.
Hey everyone. I've tried both of theses hubs and HDMI and VGA both dont work (using them separately of course):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WV9DWX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9DGV4X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Since it has HDMI on board, it's not a big deal. But I need VGA. Would I be better off just getting a micro HDMI to VGA adapter rather than trying to mess with a USB-C hub for video?
Many thanks for both your post and your follow-up.
Absolutely, I'm cheaping out :) The hub would be something I'd use so infrequently, I can't justify paying big money.
In fact, based on another post-er's experience, I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3NOFXQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Even cheaper :) I can't imagine it will work well, but I'll certainly post back with my results.
As an aside, use of a usb modem is such a battery drain on the Pocket that you have to be plugged in.
If anyone is interested, I ended up getting a USB-C Hub with ethernet and a Micro HDMI to VGA and HDMI. Good and bad news.
Micro HDMI to VGA and HDMI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07444F9NZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Works as expected. Both the HDMI and VGA worked on the first try. One thing I didn't think of until I saw that it came with a 1/8th connector is that the HDMI connection doesn't send audio. No big deal, plug the 1/8in from the computer to the adapter. Most cases, I dont need audio. The description does say that the HDMI can send audio so I may just be doing something wrong.
USB-C Hub with Ethernet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I8J479Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ethernet works, USB ports work, USB charging works. But, USB-C charging and ethernet do not work at the same time for some reason. Haven't really played with it much. I guess I could kind of understand something not working if two USB drives and the ethernet were plugged in at the same time. But, I'm surprised adding more power would make the ethernet not work.
Unfortunately, I feel as if I'm fighting a losing battle trying to find something that everything works right so I think I'm just going to have to deal with this setup. Luckily, I very rarely use the ethernet so it shouldn't be too big of a deal.
It's just giving you USB-A ports, but I've had good luck with https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3NOFXQ . Ethernet adapters and flash drives go through it fine.
It also might help to get the July 5th BIOS from http://www.gpd.hk/news.asp?id=1519&selectclassid=002002 .
I have not tried the stock charger at all.
I actually own two of those:
They are charging with about 2.8 A at 4.8V which gets the device fully charged.
There is also a thread I just stumbled upon about charging which mentions some USB-C PD chargers that might be worth a try:
https://www.reddit.com/r/GPDPocket/comments/6krvz8/official_charger_specs/
Regarding the stock Ubuntu: I would get rid of that as soon as possible as the guys at GPD seem not to have any real clue about porting Linux/Ubuntu properly.
There are several options to switch to a better distribution that most likely causes less trouble as Hans did a great job working on an awesome kernel.
UPDATE: The above Anker link works for charging the GPD Pocket but its USB-C port doesnt officially have USB PD support.
The following Anker device is the newer version, a bit more expensive, and officially supports USB PD (I have no idea if that will actually translate to faster charging times than the previous version linked above): New Anker with USB PD
This was the travel pouch that came with Anker's 20k mAh battery pack (https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499850016&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=anker&psc=1). There are probably other similar sized packs that come with things it will fit in.
I bought mine from:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001PE5XAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure if you're in the UK or not?
I'm planning to keep mine as a backup (just in case I didn't put enough on the CPU or something like that!) - sorry!
Just be of decent quality and be able to output a decent number of amps. I have one of these and it charges the pocket fine at 5v@2A (confirmed with power meter)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F5Q4F0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have one of these, works fine... https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Touchscreen-Devices-Including-8-9-Inch/dp/B004GCJEZU
Any smartphone or android tablet stylus should work fine.
You will not be able to get a Wacom (Samsung note, Microsoft Surface, Etc...) type of stylus to work, as the screen does not have the supported hardware...
Someone said somewhere that they were going to get a telescopic controller, excellent solution:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Controller-Telescopic-Wireless-Controllers-Android/dp/B01ADD49XM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492377674&sr=8-1&keywords=Ipad+controller