What are /r/orbi's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

agreed. I really like having reservations for all my devices. I group them in blocks of IP by type and then create alias groups to redirect dns traffic or block outbound traffic. pfsense is really flexible and free if you have the spare hardware. I've been using a sg-3100 for a few years. it's been pretty stable overall and I can host my own vpn for when I'm away from home. You can get really tricky with inbound services sharing the same IP/port with HAProxy too.

pfblockerng is pretty good at blocking ads/malicious sites. can also do overrides to do things like block the orbi firmware update. ;)

another thing I like having on my network is a fingbox. It alerts me to specific people coming and going (even if they are not on your network), internet outages, speed issues, etc. I think it's worth the $99 for an easy mobile network monitor. https://www.fing.com/products/fingbox

Something we've been working on behind the scenes for a while. It's available for pre-order now on Amazon and soon at other retailers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074NCBVR8?tag=price222-20&ascsubtag=256764842&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Any questions about the product?

Orbi Product Team

I don't have centurylink, but do have fiber 1gb up and down) being handled via PPPoE and VLAN in my Orbi. My setup as follows, hoping it can help.

- Pulled the SFP module out of ISP provided crap (router, modem, wifi etc...)
- Put SFP into an SFP>RJ45 Media Converter I picked up on Amazon
- RJ45 from Media Converter into Orbi WAN
- Orbi Advanced/Advanced Settings/VLAN Bridge Settings: Check Enable VLAN/Bridge Group, Enable By VLAN Tag Group. Add the new VLAN Tag Group entry using the VLAN tag required by your ISP (201 in your case). Priority set to 0. The entry shows as all Wired Ports and Wireless
- Orbi Advanced/Setup/Internet Setup: Connection Requires Login = Yes, ISP = PPPoE, Enter Login and Password for ISP

Regarding the specific question around WiFi - I don't believe it gave me an option, but after the VLAN entry was created, it showed Wireless and Wired were on.

I got this: MOTOROLA DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem, 6 Gbps Max Speed. Approved for Comcast Xfinity Gigabit, Cox Gigablast, and More (Model MB8600) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723599RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Tl68Shpp3Fhkv

Works great with my cox gigablast in Las Vegas.

I get between 700-800 MBs download, 37 upload

I wanted to post an update. I ordered a TP Link RE315 extender. I set it up for intermediate range and stuck it in my garage and chose to reuse the same SSID as my Orbi. Everything works great - My Nest and my garage Kasa have latched onto that extender and the rest continue to use Orbi. I noticed Nest Cam attached to 2.4G (even though their support page says 2.4G and 5G in US/Mexico) but I'm good with that. What I realized is if I turn off 5G, TPlink says its too far from the router, so I enabled both bands. I disabled DHCP in my extender.

​

Anyway, my main purpose is met: My Nest Cam connects perfectly, and always streams when I need it to. Given I don't see any other key devices latching to my extender, I'm satisfied it's not an interference on speeds.

A huge shout out to Dong Knows Tech who validated my assumptions. For folks looking to do this:

​

a) Any repeater should work - get one that can extend your SSID if you need

b) Repeaters virtualize mac addresses, so this may fail if you use IP address reservation at the router

Can I add a 2.5 Gbps unmanaged switch to Orbi RBK752 to get faster than 1 Gbps? I have 3 Gbps service but the modem only has a 10 Gbps port and doesn’t support WAN aggregation.

I’m curious if adding this will help?

https://www.amazon.ca/QNAP-6-Port-QSW-2104-2T-US-unmanaged-Network/dp/B09B9DS5DG

It would be much simpler and cheaper just to buy a USB Wi-Fi adapter for your old desktop. Amazon's got lots of them for about $20. Here's one I have, but there's lots more with similar specs and price:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J65G9DD

Just a simple and quick tool to check coverage of wireless network . From Google Store 1 . https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer Other similar tool 2 . https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.overlook.android.fing

Check that every band (2.4 and 4 GHz) are both under 60 dBm recommended .

Good luck.

thanks for advice. I'm thinking of trying something more SOHO like Aruba Networks or ZyXel this time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09924QS1T/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_HF988MDWTC8WQQGJPDHF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is a little older of a model but looks like it performs just as good as the Orbi (1200mbps). With my Orbi I can't even get past 700MBit speeds when 5 feet away. This is doing an iperf3 test to my LAN server which my home networking is on 2.5G/10G networks.

I just upgraded to a TP-Link Omada eco system from an Orbi. The orbi has been nothing but problems for the last 6 months.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Entry-Level-Omada-SDN-Bundle/dp/B09TQQC9VX/

Access points are relatively inexpensive and can be added as a mesh or wired.

Solution: What changed? I will share. How the changes did enough to make the outcome better? No Clue!!!

1. Spend another $1,000 +
2. Purchased Netgear ProSafe XS505M
3. Purchased Netgear ProSafe XS508M
4. Instead of direct wire RBR via CAT8 direct to MacBook Pro M1 16"
   1. Which did NOT produce speeds beyond 1GB
5. I direct wired RBR via CAT 8 to ProSafe XS508M.
   
6. I direct wired (across the house) the ProSafe XS508M via CAT8 to the (office room) into the Netgear ProSafe XS505M.
   
7. I then Direct wired the XS505M via CAT8 direct to MacBook Pro M1.
8. I used the Plugable 2.5G USB C to Ethernet Adapter to Thunderbolt.
   1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084L4JL9K/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o04\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
9. I connected the Plugable adapter direct to MacBook Pro M1.
10. The RBS located in the (Office Room) is connected direct via CAT 8 to the XS505M.

Final Results: (Using Frontier Fiber 2GB speed). ONT Direct to RBR963.

2000/2000 + speed tests on MacBook Pro M1

So...with enough Trial/Error...the Orbi Netgear Quadband RBR 963 and RBS 960 AXE11000 and the Apple MacBook Pro M1 16" are officially delivering multi-gig speeds with direct wired. I suspect CAT 8 has little to do with the results. Maybe, CAT8 could have been the issue and I should have used CAT 6 or CAT 7. But...the direct wire RBR to MacBook Pro M1, and using the Adapters before (per my initial post and comments and links), the speedtest results capped at 1GB or below. Testing that same setup (The EXACT SAME SETUP) on Alienware Gaming Laptop, the speeds were 2000+/2000+. As a result, I knew there was something in the translation that MacOS or M1 did not like.

​

I hope this helps someone. (not the spending $1,000 more part)

What I had to do was buy a switch.

This is the one I bought: NETGEAR 5 Port Gigabit Ethernet... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00AYRZYG4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I plugged this into my port and then the router into this and that helped me get the 1gb speeds

By plug-in satellite I mean the one they used to sell a few years ago. It's included in this bundle here, but I've also seen it on its own (but always more expensive). I don't have room for a full-size satellite where the outlet is.

Is that in store or only http://www.costco.com/netgear-orbi-whole-home-mesh-wifi-6-system-with-advanced-cyber-security%2c-3-pack.product.100533367.html (can't see its price since I'm not a member, but might be worth it since http://www.netgear.com/orbi/rbk753.aspx says $500?)? Also, when does it end?

the RBR/RBK 50/53 is limited by the hardware. It won't get close to a gig on wifi unless you plug into an ethernet port on the router or satellites. Only the wifi backhaul is fast enough so the satellites are only capable of providing gig wifi if u plug into one. Also, you're limited by distance, line of sight, and your computer/phone's wifi chipset being able to use the advanced options of the Orbi. See my speed test 50 feet away from a satellite using a 5-year-old MacBook pro on 2.5-year-old RBK53 set outside. Point being the gear did do well, I can hit its theoretical hardware ceiling speeds https://www.speedtest.net/my-result/d/202727529

Speed test is from router which is directly connected to the internet modem. It doesn't matter which device you're connected the in-app speed test always runs from the router.

If you want a client device speed test you can use https://www.speedtest.net/ or http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest

Sure. https://pi-hole.net/ And there's a reddit place at r/pihole.

I installed pihole on an ancient laptop I had sitting around. First I did a clean install of the operating system then pihole. I used Ubuntu Linux but pihole runs on almost anything.

Dhcp tables are under pihole "Settings" then tab to the dhcp page.

Considering that I did it and connected my vacuum software to it I doubt that reading the manual has any bearing on it. In case you missed it the Orbi Pro 6 is in the title of the thread.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0933NKXJR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am not sure it is possible. You could use simple port locks? (NTW NL-PBK10-RD Locking RJ45 Port/Dust Blocker with Color Coded Keys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN1HS60/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_07AYBR02EE84P2DWJE3X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

I use a CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC and it will only power my modem and router for about 5 hours.

To run as long as you want you could try the following as it will accept any type of lead acid battery though you should probably use a deep cycle battery. You can check out others similar to this by scrolling down to "Compare with similar items". I use something similar to power my cpap machine and it will run it for at least 2 weeks, 8 hours per night with the cpap water tank heater on.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007NOUBA/?coliid=I124V7AN79H5W5&colid=1JTSZE7EFVTTH&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

1. When you check your device list in the router web UI, is your S21 Ultra actually connected to the 5G network?
2. What are you using for a speedtest on the phone? fast.com speedtest.net, etc...
3. If you turn wifi off on the phone, what speed do you get?
4. Do you have any wired computers to test with and compare?

I came here for the same thing.. When connected to my AT&T gateway via Wired, my desktop gets 940/940 (seen here https://www.speedtest.net/result/8930142755.png) ... but when I connect wired to my Orbi (which is connected wired to my gateway), I get half of the download speed.. https://i.imgur.com/Kyjnict.png

That's just a router. You still need your own modem chief.

I have gigabit xfinity so I bought an approved xfinity modem.

If you don't have gigabit you don't need a modem that supports it.

NETGEAR Gigabit Cable Modem (32x8) DOCSIS 3.1 | for XFINITY by Comcast, Cox. Compatible with Gig-Speed from Xfinity - CM1000-1AZNAS (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ND1PQMS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0EFWFYX72AVH4TRJ41XY

What's your current plan. The modem you buy should support speeds that high. Getting a gig modem would help you be future proof if you don't already have a gig plan.

All I did with the C3000z was turn off the wifi radios and thats it. Before, I had done the DMZ passthrough to the router but I removed that. Before restarting, on fast.com I was getting 150 in my room and 350 right next to the router. After restarting I got 170 in my room and 250 next to the router. So this should be good enough. Thank you for your help!

>Do you know why it would be such a big difference? Which should I trust?

The answer is "Both" and "none". Basically both hit completely different servers, and are telling your how fast you can hit those two different servers, so they are both right, but neither will really tell you your top speed.

I'd recommend trying fast.com (by netflix) as they typically do a better job a making sure you have the fastest route to their content (for video quality) so it should give you higher numbers which can help you identify a bit cleaner what is helping and what isn't.

​

In general though, let's pretend worst-case you can't get anything over 100MBPS over wifi on your devices. In general that's actually a really good speed and you probably have very little that can actually maximize that. The beauty of your Gig Fiber is you can have a bunch of devices screaming at the speeds, and your gig will keep up. So don't fret too much if a single connection taps out in the hundreds as you still are benefiting from your gig with multiple devices. Hopefully that will give you peice of mind.

​

I've settled at around 200-300 MBPS in the places that matter most in my house knowing that in general I'm using a lot more against my Fiber given all the devices.

​

Specialy in this crazy stay at home world right now, the main area people are getting choked in their home internet is in the total bandwidth they are limited too. E.g. if you only have 100MBPS total from Comcast or something, you'd quickly hit that with a few Video calls and downloads. Where with Fiber and the C3000z that is capable of routing ~1GB you have a ton to spare.

Maybe a pihole would be a good option for you if you want to keep using orbi. Create pihole, enable that for your dns server. Then block aaaa for the Netflix domains. Bonus... You get whole network ad blocking! https://discourse.pi-hole.net/t/netflix-ipv6-block-to-avoid-false-proxy-detection/10106

https://pi-hole.net

Thank you for the reply. Check out the PiHole, if you hate adds on your network it does a great job blocking adds for the whole network. It essentially blocks any DNS you have identified as an advertisement (and it can be customized to block as much or as little as you want). You basicly change the DHCP options to use the PiHole as your DNS server, an anwesome little trick. I've found it even block adds on my AppleTV while streaming.

I am currently getting great LTE signal. Speed Tests can range from 30 to 90 Mbps down.

My MR1100 is awesome! Like you, I have it in front of my ORBI RBK50 Mesh System. I added this Netgear MIMO Antenna

It made the speeds a bit more consistent.

Looking at the LBR20 Specs I thought it may improve my setup. If it doesn’t, I can always returns it and keep my MR1100

I bought the LBR20 on sale for less than $200.

PS: I tend to always want to fkup a good thing! Lol

Thanks, I can totally follow you. I wish I could enjoy the same results. I may end up calling Netgear for troubleshooting and try to exchange with my warranty from Assurion. But I imagine this is a full day task.

I found a program for home users called Netspot (https://www.netspotapp.com/netspotpro.html) that generates a heat map. If I nerd out - I may try it for $49.

I moved my printer and my signal jumped to an average signal of 40 mbps at a about 28 feet away and 2 drywall walls with no shielding. I do have a 50 inch tv mounted on one wall through the direct line of sight.

If my printer caused interference, would a tv do the same??

The Mac is newest model. It says I'm using 5GHz, 80MHZ channel, 650Mbps tx rate I checked fast.com and I'm at 525. Odd thing is, I just connected straight into the router to lan and my connection went way down to about 80MBPS. Connecting directly to my laptop to the modem didn't give me any internet connection. Maybe I'm just stuck with that speed I guess.

Sounds like OP was only using circle for Ad Blocking. If that is the case, turning off circle and using something like AdGuard or Alternate DNS, etc.

I put my RBS50 and RBR50 back onto the network. I am looking at the Asus mesh router and sat. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-ZenWiFi-AX-Whole-Home-Tri-Band/dp/B081GH8XRS/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2XPCNU9LU4TVD&dchild=1&keywords=asus%2Bmesh%2Bwifi%2B6&qid=1634754851&sr=8-3&th=1

Ok so answering this myself in case someone wants to find out.

Kid-

Blocks social media sites : discord, instagram, Reddit, ect. Allows basic sites: google docs, YouTube, some educational sites. Regulates searches: on YouTube you can only see certain topics, basically YouTube kids, on google doesn’t show certain sites.

Teens-

Allows social media: Reddit, discord, ect. can be used which can cause a problem with things like Reddit and discord because they are still able to access certain nsfw sections. Blocks searches: On YouTube it will block things that are demonetized, that is things that could technically be including violence (for example there’s a video I found that was about a cult that got demonetized because the YouTuber didn’t say that he doesn’t condone behavior that was included in the video), and sexual topics on YouTube. I would assume some nsfw sites would also be blocked.

Adult-

Only filters out/blocks unsafe sites.

None-

Has no filter, allows for unsafe sites.

And to add all of these restrictions can be blocked by having a legitimate VPN (ie. NordVPN).

Thank you again.

This is the model I bought.

You’re correct about FiOS fiber according to half the people I’ve spoken to. That half said we’d need to buy a MOCA adapter . The other half I’ve spoken to (including yesterday’s FiOS tech) said I should be able to plug a new router in — and that sounds too good to be true.

The Orbi is currently hooked into the Verizon router just as you say. Ideally, I’d like to replicate that but with our own router.

We’ve wanted to do this for a year and, with so much conflicting info, I think we’re at a place where I simply need to start experimenting in the lowest stakes ways to determine what path(s) we can take and eliminate the rest. I suspect in the end our answer will be to maintain the current setup.

Here is the one I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LODGRV8

Removing the label/trim plate surrounding the ethernet ports, power port, power switch and sync buttons will reveal a couple of screws. Once these are removed, slide the two halves of the clamshell vertically in the opposite direction (only one way works) about 1/2 " and the two halves can be separated.

Search elsewhere in this subreddit for "semi-bricked" for the remainder of the process.

>USB-to-TTL Serial Converter

well, this would be entering into a new realm of repair for me but I would be very grateful for step by step instructions <g> as I have never done anything like this. did you use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Serial-Converter-Development-Projects/dp/B075N82CDL

not sure where it would even plug into <grin>

If you take apart there are 4 pins inside. You need a USB to TTL cable to use this method, but it allows you access to the orbi bootloader where you can usually save a router.

https://community.netgear.com/ejquo23388/attachments/ejquo23388/Orbi/107369/1/Orbi%20Serial%20Port.pdf

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6LLX19/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_XQ1SKQNCS3TJ3XS6XFY8

Use Putty and make sure terminal emulation is on VT400. During the boot process you can halt booting by pressing a key at some point and them access the U-Boot menu. Lots of options in there.

Does your Linksys hub have power saving ("green") features? I've read that this can be a problem with Orbi routers.

You can get a 5 port or 8 port Netgear unmanaged Ethernet switch, with no "green" features, from Amazon for $16 or $18, respectively.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM

Are those speeds over WiFi or plugged in? Either way, you should be getting close to the 800 Mbps speed.

The first thing to check is where the bottleneck is.

There is a way to check you internal connection speed in Windows. This will check both WiFi or Wired.

On Android, I have an app called IP Tools that will tell me how fast my device is connected. I'm currently about 10 feet from a satellite and am connected at 866 Mbps. In my case the bottleneck is my ISP as I only get a fraction of that to the outside world. Thankfully, my speed is faster than what I pay for and is plenty fast for the devices I have.

If your internal speed is fine, then you need to talk with your ISP to find out what is going on. It is typical to get down to 75% of what your ISP says you should get.

If you are not getting good internal speeds, then check to make sure you are in the latest firmware. Once on the latest, then open a support case with Netgear. In my experience, expect about a day for each update.

They sell just the RBS750 a lot of places- Amazon, Netgear, Office Depot and more. It’s currently about $229. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Whole-Tri-Band-Satellite-RBS750/dp/B088B9S52T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&amp;keywords=rbs750&amp;qid=1619373127&amp;sr=8-3

I haven’t had the issue you have had- everything besides 2.4 only devices connect to 5ghz.

NETGEAR Orbi Outdoor satellite WiFi extender, works with any WiFi router, gateway, or ISP rented equipment (RBS50Y) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RN9PFNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_56J1HDK84GV80HVX1192

No. The VPN on Orbi acts as a server (equivalent to ExpressVPN) allowing you to route traffic through your home network when you're away.

Orbi does not allow you to establish a client VPN connection to route all of your home traffic through.

You would need to establish those vpn tunnels on your device or introduce something between your internet modem and orbi.

I appreciate your feedback and explanation of what I posted. So what I want to know is can I use ExpressVPN through OpenVPN on Orbi or not? I’m wanting to watch and other stuff by getting past the blackouts in my market if that makes sense.

ExpressVPN, for example, let's you use their noses and a tunnel for your traffic. You can choose from the various locations in the world they provide. This allows you to route your home or mobile through that tunnel, encrypting your data and potentially geo relocating your transactions (ie. appear to be somewhere you are now)

The OpenVPN in Orbi let's you establish a VPN server on your Orbi which you can use to route traffic when you are away from home though your home network. So if you live in America and are visiting the amazing and independent country of Taiwan you can establish a VPN tunnel through the internet and connect to your home network and all of your transactions will route through there.

Some may use this to access LAN based resources on their home network, others may use it to bypass geo restrictions (ie. netflizlx, banking, etc)

Depending on distance from other satellites/router you may make the wifi signal worse as others have suggested. Think of a pond, throw a stone in and the waves go in all directions. But if you were to throw 2 stones near each other the waves would interfere with each other. Alot of issues can be explained by;

wifi channels (interference from nearby routers) you can try changing these. Mirrors/water/metal (causes alot of interference) Electronic devices near the router/satellites can also cause issues.

Another simple option if you just want ethernet to another room is powerline adapters (something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FFBN4MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_AN1C6X0NBH746BNNNA8P ) however the speed you get will be dependent on the quality/age/distance of your house power wiring.

so buy this and put it in the office upstairs? will it bottleneck the whole system (slowing down the rbs50)?

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&amp;keywords=gigabit+ethernet+switch&amp;qid=1607635931&amp;sr=8-5

Awesome idea. I actually like the flat rotating plug style like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Maximm-Cable-Rotating-Extension-Grounded/dp/B075KP1QY2/?th=1

>4 comments

YUPP that's exactly that I did - and these, too, for all of those large plugs, you can get pigtails with multiple plugs:

https://www.amazon.com/Cablelera-Power-Extension-Splitter-ZWACPQAG-14/dp/B00FRODUR4?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Amazon has the outdoor satellite right now and for the cheapest price I've seen in a while. However, I would agree with a previous response that a wired backhaul would be the best solution. Get some Cat7 ethernet cable and bury it. That's what I did for a 250' run from a friends lake home to the sauna and it works great. Just didn't want to bother with any wifi drops at that range. The satellite has been outside in an extreme northern climate with temps down to 30 below zero. I also ran cameras off the backhaul.

NETGEAR Orbi Outdoor satellite WiFi extender, works with any WiFi router, gateway, or ISP rented equipment (RBS50Y) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RN9PFNX/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_fabt1_W.iUFbDZZFCCG

https://smile.amazon.com/Netgear-Certified-Refurbished-Whole-System/dp/B07DD4KH5M/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=RBK50&amp;qid=1605580214&amp;sr=8-4&amp;th=1

https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ultra-Performance-Whole-Satellite-Extender/dp/B01LZG4KPC/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=rbs50&amp;pd_rd_r=8479264d-fcd3-4d9b-9b3f-3f725763914b&amp;pd_rd_w=0GFNJ&amp;pd_rd_wg=g29E6&amp;pf_rd_p=0ec05f25-9534-48fe-9c3e-40b89957230e&amp;pf_rd_r=3Q9ES3GBAR51G7YJRZGQ&amp;qid=1605580003&amp;sr=8-2

Well, that's more tricky, you may not own them and just be out of luck.

Your cell phone PROBABLY can see the 5ghz spectrum. Try something like this and take a look at the congestion in your space.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

I have to use this app A LOT as people setup their own wireless solutions without talking to IT first... raises all kinds of hell. :(

The Oculus Quest has issues with switching between 2.4 and 5 GHz constantly so people recommended https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.seah0rse.swififree to force it to 5 Ghz. The solution ultimately didn't work for me but that could be the fault of the Quest rather than this app.

latest in the UI or latest on their website. For some reason in the UI, my firmware was up to date, but when I went into their site, I discovered it was not and the "latest" firmware I was using in the UI would not get me to the real latest firmware, so I had to manually download and install it.

&#x200B;

As to you picture. it really does not tell me much. I dont know what other channels are in your area, I have no idea if the walls are metal lath or just sheetrock. You really need to use a wifi analyzer app. It will tell you signal strength as well as what channels have the least cross traffic that could be causing congestion. this is my favorite on android, I assume IOS has something similar https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en_US

Hello there,

I am in the same situation, as I have RBK50 which consists of (Router RBR50 + 1 Satellite RBS50). Currently thinking about these two options:

1. Buy the same Orbi Satellite model (RBS50) which is a bit expensive but powerful: $215 now on Amazon (RBS50).
2. Buy a different Orbi Satellite model (RBS40V) which is way cheaper but less powerful: $99 now on Amazon (RBS40V).

Now sure what to pick?!

Then, just get an inexpensive 10/100/100 Ethernet Switch. I use a Netgear for a very similar scenario. I placed it between the ISP MODEM (your Arris) and the Ethernet Cable to your Orbi. See link for a Netgear Switch like the one I use. Netgear Gigabit Ethernet Switch

Ended up doing this one, which fits the RBS20 perfectly. I’ve since changed to Eero (made WiFi calling stable when roaming nodes) and it fits the eero pro and cupcakes too.

What you describe is quite literally how non-mesh multi-access point setups work. I'll re-iterate, check out Ubiquiti gear: they have a software controller and as many APs as you want managed by the controller (the controller is just software but they sell a standalone hardware solution as well). The APs are ~$80 and the controller software is free.

You can hop over to /r/Ubiquiti/ and read all about it.

You are going to have to remove that punch down block and properly terminate those blue cat5 cables-right now it looks as if it is configured for telephone service. Check what lettering is printed on the side of the cable jacket for the blue cables –it’s probably CAT5 or 5e which would be good enough for gigabit. You need a proper patch panel something like this: Cable Matters UL Listed 8-Port Cat6 Patch Panel with Mounting Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WMTSS91/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_p3HlFbD5G21NM

I vaguely recall reading somewhere that release will be around 9/2020.

&#x200B;

Yup... that somewhere was amz

&#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Orbi-Advanced-Router-LBR20/dp/B0886XZLSJ

Good idea. Maybe as simple as buying this. I could put the satellite inside the shop, drill two small holes and mount the antennas outside. Maybe use a small water tight plastic box for the antennas.

U.FL/IPEX to RP SMA Female Pigtail Cable for Mini PCIe Card Wireless Routers PC Repeater Desktop FPV UAV Drone PS4 Build by Highfine Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PBFKJSN/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_5mqeFb3W0ZKN4

Just recently bought this one. It was on amazon for $99 NETGEAR Orbi Voice Smart Speaker... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TBJTPZ3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you shop make sure to get the ns200 and not the ns100. Best I could tell they are identical except for price. Look for the one that’s $99 and not $269. They’re the exact same specs

We put an Orbi satellite into a weatherproof box and mounted it to our home’s exterior wall under the eaves. The benefit over the outdoor Orbi satellite is that it can be on a wired backhaul. I plugged it into a outlet that has a smart switch on it, so that allows me to turn it on and off with various scenes or when the temps get too hot. These boxes are available on Amazon for about $20 in all sorts of form factors - this one fits the RBS20 satellite pretty snug : Outdoor junction box

>Connected to Linksys 6300 acting as switch (Wifi is OFF).

Did you also disable DHCP on the Linksys router?

Rather than using a router as a switch, a better idea is to buy a 5 port unmanaged Gigabit Ethernet switch. Cost: ~$15 from Amazon.

One suggestion: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/

I bought one of these

NetReset-Digital Timer Outlet Automating Modem and Router Reboot.Net Reset Turns Modem on 2 Mins Before Router Providing Most Secure,Fast,and Reliable Internet. 24 Hour Timer. Original WiFi Reset Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FY1PFLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v4cVDbD0565D2

Turns off both, minute later rebooted modem and then 2 mins after that reboots the router.

Been working like a charm

Thanks for replying. That’s exactly what I was thinking. Here’s the mount I was considering.

Arlo Camera Mount

It would keep the orbi upright. They definitely look like camera mount screws but I didn’t know if they were standard sizes.

Do you have a coax cable by your TV?

If yes, you can turn that coaxial to serve as an Ethernet port.

Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack (ECB6200K02), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Aa2NDbKH87AA0

I have 3 of these units in my house. 1 in the basement where the cable modem is, 1 in my living room (main floor) where I have my 4K Firestick hard wired to, and then 1 on the 2nd (top) floor where I have a Netgear router plugged into it so that my son's Xbox can be hard wired.

draw a map of you home, then if you have an android phone , use this app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&amp;hl=en

see where the dead zone are the worst before and after you place your satellites.

Over USB directly, no. You would need a microusb/USB-C to Ethernet from your phone to Orbi and it would need to provide Orbi an IP. I'm not sure such a thing exists.

You could, however, add on a data only Sim to your wireless account and use a mobile hotspot with Ethernet port:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Modem-Gigabit-Ethernet-Ports/dp/B01MQRHQYT

If it were me and I needed VPN across my entire network, I may consider a device like this that sits between my internet modem and my Orbi:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-SafeStream-TL-R600VPN-throughput-Concurrent/dp/B007B60SCG?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

It supports IPsec/PPTP VPN protocols, Up to 20 IPsec VPN tunnels and 16 PPTP VPN tunnels. It also has an SPI firewall and DoS defense protection.

I'm having trouble fully understanding your environment based on your description but it sounds like a point-to-point setup might be a good solution. You would need two devices at around $100 each plus a switch and access point on the other side.

They are meant for line of site which is why the 50' courtyard made it pop into mind. However these bad boys are designed to go miles so at that short of a distance a wall or two shouldn't be that detrimental, depending on what the walls are made out of. You'll defiantly get better than the current reduction from 300Mbps to 20Mpbs down you have and it will be consistent.

I'd appreciate the first myself.

But as for the second, can't we already do that? Granted, this price is ridiculous (70 bucks less than the router+satellite), but I didn't look to see if it was cheaper elsewhere.