What are /r/Comcast's favorite Products & Services?

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Yet another reason for HTTPS Everywhere:

https://www.eff.org/https-everywhere

We've found several of these type of injections from cable companies to public WiFi that inject code that broke our web site. We finally gave-up trying to rename HTML IDs and JavaScript variables to workaround the problems companies like Comcast decided to create and just started using HTTPS.

Yep! This is the equivalent of opening your USPS mail, inserting ads, and closing it back up!

Super immoral, totally wrong.

(Said in the tone of a game show host):

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck Comcast!

What you can do is:

1. Use a VPN (for now at elast until Comcast kills those too.
2. Use https://www.eff.org/https-everywhere, a free plugin from the EFF to switch to HTTPS whenever possible.
   

>They cannot explain why they can't go back and listen to the 2 calls from when I confirmed the move.

Yeah, any time you're dealing with a company that has a shitty track record of customer service you should use a program like this and record every single call. Look into your local statutes but most states are single party consent states where only one person (EG: you) needs to know that the call is being recorded. Every single call I make to comcast is recorded as insurance against "We can't find the recorded call" bullshit that is VERY common with Comcast.

Wow, lots to unpack here...

>Is Comcast somehow getting around Torguard?

Comcast has nothing at all to do with you getting a DMCA notice. They got it from a copyright holder, they forwarded it to you.

Chances are, your VPN is leaking. One way this might happen is if your computer has an IPv6 address and the VPN isn't preventing traffic from going out via IPv6. Try using this tool from your VPN provider to investigate the problem further.

First, I wouldn't worry too much about it. They're not going to do anything to you for pirating one thing.

Second, just use a VPN. I highly recommend Private Internet Access.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nll.acr&hl=en_US

I use this every time I intend on making a financial transaction over the phone. I suggest that you use it.

Oddly enough it came into good use a few months ago when a debt collector lost his shit on me and it ended up getting my $2,000 debt (that was only 3 months behind) taken completely off of my credit history.

Telephone lines have all kinds of crazy regulations regarding privacy of call records and billing information. The Home phone number is one of the things that always has to be authenticated when changing pins. Its also a way for comcast to Identify who you are. Sometimes we had to call customers back on there home line to authenticate that it was really them.

The xfinity connect might be useful for you. It allows you to make calls and texts using your xfinity voice number from your cell phone.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.comcast.ottclient&hl=en

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/xfinity-connect/id320788270?mt=8

Now, can you help me with your reddit password?

I signed up for this deal a few months ago and have been happily enjoying my iPad, paying my $5/mo for two years. It's a great deal.

Here's a much longer thread about the deal: https://slickdeals.net/f/11626951-xfinity-triple-play-customers-check-your-email-for-120-ipad-9-7-128gb-offer-ymmv

Get Internet essentials for $10/month, it includes a modem (no added rental fee).

Then get her an Ooma for voice (http://ooma.com) - you only pay the monthly taxes for services (about $5/month depending where you live).

Then just have her get a streaming TV package like Sling (https://www.sling.com/) for $35/month.

Internet+Phone+TV = $10+5+35 = $50/month.

In case anyone missed it, the last portion of the article should answer all of your questions:

"Carl Guardino is CEO of the Silicon Valley Leadership Group, a trade organization that represents more than 390 Silicon Valley employers, including Comcast."

In other words, he's a lobbyist for Comcast as well as others, hence the blatant spin.

The net neutrality bullshit was also amusing to read. The only reason they're doing that, and they're only required to until 2018, is because they had to appease the FCC to allow for the NBCUniversal merger to go through. Do you think they're going to continue to past 2018? Hell no.

Even their claim to have followed NN rules previously is utter bullshit. Anyone recall when they started fucking around with blocking/throttling BitTorrent?

See for yourself:

http://www.cnet.com/news/comcast-really-does-block-bittorrent-traffic-after-all/

The spin these guys put on this shit is unbelievable...

Actually Neowin has been down or a few days. It's not just you. Here's why. In the mean time, you can got to neow.in instead.

in the case of Funimation's botched Re: Zero release I'll most likely get a copy from nyaa.si on my VPN. Funimation doesn't deserve my money with that. I still firmly believe in not pre-ordering and allowing a company to earn my money.

Great info! I'm not super tech savvy but have been using Torguard for about 4-5 years and never had any issues till recently so wasn't sure if Comcast was doing some Jedi Super Voodoo or if it was the VPN.

Thanks for the info!!

do you have only 4 coax outputs in the house? if you have more, then that one probably just isn't connected. (could be another splitter somewhere I guess)

coax testers are pretty cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/CIMPLE-CO-Continuity-Connector-Identifying/dp/B074CQ8THY

you'd test each output of the splitter...if that line doesn't beep, then it's not connected.

splitters are pretty cheap too, if you just want to try another one.

https://www.amazon.com/Antronix-CMC2004H-Horizontal-Splitter-Performance/dp/B08LMD2DTT

Well, you can't have two modems, but I can maybe do you one better. It sounds like you could use this, which is a pack of 2 MoCA 2.5 adapters. I use these at my home personally, you simply connect them to the coax line and the ethernet.

One device goes by your modem upstairs. You can split the coax as I believe they come with splitters, so you set the box next to the modem, connect it to the router's ethernet, and also connect it to the same coax line or a nearby coax line if you would like.

The second device goes downstairs, it connects to the line that the modem used to be connected to (or any other active line in the home), and then also plugs into your computer. That will give you a gigabit reliable connection, much better than a powerline adapter. Because the devices communicate with 2.5gbps there is no real loss in internet speed. Hope this helps.

Also, I should mention... this device does not work if you have satellite tv like DirecTV. You also may want to put a "moca filter" on the in line coming into the home, OR you can go to the management webpage on the devices and encrypt them with the same password so that people outside your home can't take your internet.

I'm assuming you mean MG7550 since I can't find a SB7550: https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-MG7550-AC1900-Gigabit-Maximum/dp/B01JGT2JI6

The MG7550 is AC1900, so you should be able to get at least 200-300mbps if your close to the router. So...

How close to the router are you? What speeds do you get right next to it on wi-fi?

If your not getting 200+ on Wi-Fi next to the AC1900 router, I'm inclined to think it's either a configuration issue or a client device issue.

Configuration issue: You have 2.4ghz and 5ghz networks, do they have the same name? If so, give them separate names and make your device connect to 5ghz. 80mbps is a sign it might be connected to the slower 2.4ghz network.

Client device issue: If you have a phone or tablet or something, a lot of times the Wi-Fi in them simply isn't capable of hitting 200+ because it would cost more to produce and there's really no benefit to a phone/tablet that downloads at those speeds (web pages load 0.001 seconds faster because most loading is rendering, thus CPU limited, and if you download at 300mbps, your gonna fill up your entire 64GB of storage in 30 minutes).

So, what device make/model are you using for speed tests so we can see what speed their even capable of?

If your connecting a computer, it probably has a slow wi-fi card (post make/model to verify) and you could either get a faster wireless dongle or you might consider powerline adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter-Extender-TP-Link/dp/B084CZMYNM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=av1000&qid=1605478203&sr=8-1

I use my own modem and have done it I think at least 3 times for comcast. Basically, from what I've seen, most modem+router combos are kinda bad. They usually don't implement both very good, usually the router part. I would recommend you get a separate one.

All you should have to do is buy your modem that is compatible with comcast, (most of the newer ones are, just type in cable modem on amazon) and tell them you bought your own modem and want to register it for your internet account. All you should have to give them is the "HFC MAC Address", usually located on the bottom sticker, and that should be all they need to activate it.

This looks like a decent product but it's hard to say since all reviews are aggregated for the same page. Most "surfboard" modems should work.

I just went through the same situation (except I don’t need 150). BUY YOUR MODEM AND ROUTER. I’ve rented the modem/router combo from multiple ISPs over the years and they suck (poor range, internet cuts out randomly, needs constant restarts, etc). Plus it’s $132/year that you’ll never see again.

I bought a like-new router and modem from amazon, optimized the channel settings and my setup kicks 5Ghz signal to the furthest reaches of my apartment, something my previous rented modem/router combos could never do consistently.

Edit: my Setup. I saved some money by not buying brand new. The only component you really need to double check is the modem. Make sure Comcast accepts it. Modem: ARRIS SURFboard 16x4 SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem- Retail Package- Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ITIXYR0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Router: NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I like the suggestion of upgrading your router and modem.... and I also can vouch for the Surfboard recommendation.

One quick suggestion you might try is setting the video quality to "LOW"

https://www.netflix.com/HdToggle

My bad, I kinda assumed too much. So just in case it matters to you. None of these routers have a phone jack. They are just for internet.

Ill make it easy for you, the 6900 is fine so is the 6700 for $41 less

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ariss-SBG6700-AC-SURFboard-DOCSIS-3.0-Wireless-Cable-Modem-and-Wireless-AC-Router/46099796

If the dont instanly work, call up time warner tell them you have a new router, they should configure the signal from there end. If it becomes a headache, return the arris and try a netgear. PM me if you need more recommendations.

Spotify also not working for me. Neither is Wikipedia. Yet this...

http://www.isitdownrightnow.com/spotify.com.html http://www.isitdownrightnow.com/wikipedia.org.html

Ugh... Comcast so crappy today.

Broadcasting popular video files (cable TV) is still more efficient than unicasting them (Netflix/Hulu). Basically a copy of the same videos will hit your modem over and over (encrypted so you can't spy) as each person in your neighborhood views them (vs cable where everyone gets it at the same time). I think that longer term, Comcast's internet service will/may be forced to be competitive via regulation (there's too much outcry, and competing technologies e.g. 10GPON are coming down in price, etc.). If that happens, Comcast can still compete with Netflix/Hulu via licensing with broadcast+X1 using DVR w/ some kind of commercial replacement. What I mean is instead of streaming a show via unicast (where the cost to the consumer is the same if it's netflix or something else), it's DVR'd like normal and edited for you so that the experience is just like Hulu but without loading down the IP network. This only works with popular/live content obviously.

The kind of weird thing is bundling can actually save Comcast money, even if it seems counter-intuitive. There's only one customer to service, but more importantly, if you're watching a ad-laden TV broadcast/DVR instead of Netflix/Hulu then it saves bandwidth on the network, and Comcast gets some of that ad revenue. So to some extent, the inverse is true--those customers getting internet only may also be cord cutters who use 50% more bandwidth on average. If you can bring yourself to believe that bandwidth does have costs (just check commercial pricing here-$0.08/GB and here-$0.09/GB for example), then it makes sense that a transit savings of $10 + extra ad revenues can work.

The other thing that Comcast has been doing is introducing "economy" packages that are supposed to be on par with Sling and other streaming services at the $20-40/m price point. Ultimately this is a licensing thing w.r.t. how many subscribers must have ESPN, etc.

they make money from xfinitywifi hotspot from non-comcast customers and it cost you electricity when someone uses the modem should be free modem rental if you leave xfinitywifi hotspot broadcasting.

https://speedify.com/blog/internet-reliability/comcast-public-hotspot-cost/

My hypothesis: When you connect to a hotspot, your phone tries to go to a URL (on Apple devices, it was https://www.apple.com/library/test/success.html) and see if it can reach the Internet or gets a captive portal.

It sounds like the captive portal somehow got cached on your device, and so it was returning that every time it tried to see if it was connected.

I had the same problem with Torguard. I logged into Torguard, SF area server, abotu a month ago. When my VPN service was connected, my Comcast IP address was not masked. I was able to log into the another city's server the later morning of August 7 and in this case, my IP address was masked. When I use Torguard now, I always check the IP address and make sure that it's masked. I never use their San Francisco server. I told Torguard about this and they told me to use tunnel type OpenVPN. Why should Torguard's server in one city not mask a customer's IP address; while the server in another city will provide proper VPN service?

Comcast landline is VoIP. There are plenty of VoIP services out there for cheap. You can actually get Google Voice for free if you want a new number. If you want to keep your existing number, it will required some porting. You can get a Poylcom (formerly ObiHai) Obi200 adapter box. You can setup Google Voice for it. It's $50 regular price or $40 when on sales (https://www.amazon.com/Obihai-OBi200-Adapter-Support-Service/dp/B07FCS1NGM). You can plug it directly into any home phone jack and it will rings to all phones.

Google Voice is free monthly. The only downside is there is no E911 feature for Google Voice. If you need that though, there is a 3rd party company that provide that for $12/year.

For Docsis 3.1 cable mode, most people recommend Motorola MB8611.

GoCoax MoCA 2.5 is only $59.99 on Amazon and gives full 940Mbps if want over 1200Mbps on 1200 plan if you get 2.5gbps ethernet one.

https://www.amazon.com/goCoax-Adapter-2-5Gbps-Ethernet-WF-803M/dp/B07XYDG7WN

2.5gbps ethernet for 1200 plan.

https://www.amazon.com/goCoax-Ethernet-Bandwidth-Companion-MA2500D/dp/B08XP8MMFG

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-MB8611-Ethernet-Approved-Comcast/dp/B08DDFKXKC/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=mb+8611&qid=1623166766&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Should be good with this for awhile.

+1 to the adapter. Something like this would allow you to connect the cable to the back and if you have some spare screws laying around you can mount the plate directly to the wood. https://smile.amazon.com/GE-40050-White-Video-Cable/dp/B002HEMX66/

The self install kit should include the coax cable to connect modem to the wall plate.

You know you can expand it to 7 ports (1 port would be used for uplink, leaving 7) for $16, right?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Litewave-Unshielded-Unmanaged-LS1008G/dp/B086384H7C/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=8+port+switch&qid=1610763548&sr=8-6

As others have said, you can only one run modem per account. What you really want is a wireless access point. A cheap way to do this would be to search on Amazon for "linksys router" and buy one that has a wireless access point. To run ethernet cable to the location without making a mess, I recommend some cable guides.

A more expensive way would be to set up a Ubiquiti access point which has the advantage of any device connected to it being able to talk to other devices on your home network.

I have this modem and it works great. If you choose the option to buy it used, you can get it for $70. I bought mine used on Amazon 4 months ago and it was $60 bucks.

ARRIS SURFboard SBG6700AC DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem/ Wi-Fi AC1600 Router - Retail Packaging - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QQ7SG48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_qx5tPIqC6dIg6

In that case couldn't you just install and use one of the apps that automatically executes actions/events (such as connect to a specific wi-fi network) when things happen (such as your wi-fi network becomes available). Then whenever you come into range of your wi-fi, it would auto-connect to your wi-fi.

Something like Automate: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.llamalab.automate

Then configure it so whenever your at home, it connects to the home wi-fi automatically.

ok.. I see you have an android device, try out this WiFi Analyzer

it will allow you to find the least congested channel frequencies and it also gives you suggestions which channel might be best to use.

the thing with WiFi, especially the 5GHz band, is you can be sitting at one spot, have excellent signal but as soon as you move, even a few inches, the signal level drops.

that's WiFi for you, and tbh there is nothing Comcast can do about it other than replacing a defective rental gateway.

despite their constant commercials harping on their "fastest wifi", the only thing they can and will do is get you good signal to the modem, and if the expected speeds are achieved testing via ethernet, then their job is done.

Well yeah. I thought it would go without saying to use a secure VPN, but you specifying that is correct. If you just google for a vpn provider most all of them have secure layers.

Private Internet Access is what I use and it works great.

I've been using Freedome for a while now and although I'm technical enough to configure VPN settings, it's really nice to be able to just download the client and 'go' - this is my goto VPN suggestion to non-technical relatives/family members due to how easy it is to get up and running.

Can someone please explain what is going on here. When I connect to my vpn, this is my download graph in utorrent. If anyone has any suggestions please inform me. I notice this even when utorrent isn't running. It only happens on my home network

Edit: my only guess is they know the ip address of Private Internet Access's VPN hosts but this all doesn't seem right

Comcast is just passing info along to you that someone has filed a claim of infringment under the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA) If you do get sued, Comcast is free of liability. It's very unlikely you'll actually get sued, so you're probably safe to just ignore the notice and don't get caught again.

If you are going to torrent, you'll want to anonymize your torrent client so your real IP address is not exposed. Something like BTGuard would work for you.

If you're watching Hulu and other services via PC or Tablet, I'd recommend actually tracking how much data you use. Data usage is a fucking awful conversation to have with friends and family, but this is the kind of shit Comcast has forced us "heavy usage" households to do. You might be surprised how much data you're actually using with Hulu, but if you can provide your own numbers for your roommate, they might get the message. I used Hulu for a couple hours the other day and somehow managed to use 18gb.

I like Glasswire for both PC and Android.

You said you don't use a rental gateway, so maybe there's data tracking information on your router. Comcast's hardware does not offer any such help.

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Coaxial-Splitter-Bidirectional-Communications/dp/B00NE0G23W/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1442532511&sr=8-10&keywords=coaxial+splitter

If you had an internet install kit, it should have had one in the box. You can probably get one for free if you want to go back to your local office.

Possibly too much line. Try a 2 way amplifier.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Amplifier-Equalizer-Terminators-LSA84-EQ8/dp/B07ZSB7SXP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=243F0P8K7J3B&keywords=2+way+amplifier+coaxial+cable+powered&qid=1670432024&sprefix=2+way+amplifier+coaxial+cable+powered+%2Ca...

Check your network again - we may be back to 'normal'. Just ran a speed test and got a much better result:

https://www.speedtest.net/result/10175270201.png

Still lower than my peak but not surprising considering network traffic is typically higher during work hours. I'm going to reset my modem and routers after clocking out for the day to see if it improves.

WiFi I generally get 500mbps+ highest I saw was 800 but this was a test I ran just now on my S20+5G Check out my Speedtest result! How fast is your internet? https://www.speedtest.net/my-result/a/6433681455

This shows that you have an SBG1000, NOT an SBG10

Yeah....you need a more modern modem, ideally a D3.1 for best compatibility but something in the last five years would be better than it's showing that you have.

Get the RT-AX86U.

>An "intruder" attempted to log in to my account so they locked it.

It sounds like you reuse passwords and Comcast is the least of your concern right now. Someone is trying your password on many different sites to see which ones they can get into. It's an automated process and they'll take any account they can find. Your PayPal to your Netflix account to even your McDonalds app will be what they strive to get.

Check out https://haveibeenpwned.com/ to see what breaches you're. Stop reusing passwords and get a password manager.

Hey thanks for your help, I grabbed this 3dB holland attenuator (I didn't see a 6 available).

My signal was 12.4-14.1 down 35.5-38.8 up this AM, and after installing was 9.4-11 down 38.5-41.3 up.

Getting 920 down on speedtest now vs about 500 before installing it. I just found a 6db of theirs, I'll order that one since I'd like to knock it down just a little more.

Im not sure what he did exactly. He just told me he didn't lay any cable till i get a coax from inside to the power meter.

My plan is to basically feed this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKYQXN9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

Through a hole outside to the power meter. Then get them to come back and finish the job

I don't know what the absolute best option is but that cable doesn't look very weather resistant. Maybe you could add some weather boots to that. However the best way would be to use compression fittings that are outdoor rated but then you have to buy the bulk cable, the fittings, and the tool.

Just going off looks something like this looks a little more appropriate if you go with premade cable: https://www.amazon.com/resistance-Satellite-Broadband-COMPRESSION-CONNECTORS/dp/B0179HFOB6

The problem is if any water gets into the connector then your signal starts to degrade. It could take a week, year, decade, but if it's not a really good seal then moisture is likely to get in there.

>The arris SB6190, which is what you said you have in your post does not support gig internet for Comcast/Xfinity. I am not going to get into the details of specifications on DOCIS but the long and short of it is that if your buying your own equipment in 2022 you should be getting a modem that supports 3.1

That's what it was advertised as when I bought it.

"ARRIS Surfboard SB6190 32x8 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem with 1.4 Gbps Download and 262 Upload Speeds" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09J966JY9?psc=1

But either way it doesn''t make a difference because as i already stated, "i'm perfectly happy with the speeds i'm getting"

Buy this, clamp it down with the damage in the center, then rotate around in one direction about 3 times. You didn't pierce the shielding so it doesn't even really need respliced. There's a gel inside the cable which should have somewhat sealed it up to make it harder for water to get in, this is called a flooding compound. The splice block I linked is filled with a more resilient form of that which will harden and seal up the splice long term. With just tape on it, water will get in eventually, but less likely with an actual splice block on it.

I have been using an SB8200 that has been very reliable for a few years. Docsis 3.1 and still available. See Link. It is a gigabit modem, so if you ever upgrade your speed tier, you are covered. I notice that the price of all modems has gone up. Probably a chip or shipping problem.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DY16W2Z/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I don't know if I would use the word recommend, since my recommendation would be to just understand that Wi-Fi isn't as fast as Ethernet, be happy with 40 Netflix streams on Wi-Fi, and use Ethernet when you need the full 1000mbps (or more as Comcast offers higher speeds and upgrades existing plans).

However, if someone said to me 'I want the maximum possible Wi-Fi speed, now and for the foreseeable future', then I'd say you want this (again, in your case, probably 2 at opposite ends of the house):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09S8QDB4B/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1

That supports Wi-Fi 6E, which is Wi-Fi 6 on 6ghz, which is the absolute latest Wi-Fi technology and offers the highest speeds possible.

Care to elaborate? What router again? My internet has been shit for I dunno 10 years, I’ve had fios,xfinity, fedelity? And moved to Oklahoma but my lag remained. Got a better Job, I’m in route to buying a Gaming Router that has full vpn support, Already purchased a year of NordVPN and am pending a swap to Verizon for their 500/500 plan because I’ve had the best service of each to try and counteract the lag to no success. What exactly is AQM? And does the D3.1 router have a specific name or is googling D3.1 router enough? (Sorry for not googling it first)

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Cable-Modem-CM1150V/dp/B0813VD13X/ref=sr_1_28?crid=3DX1QG6TW96WG&keywords=docsis+3.1+2.5gb+voice&qid=1658795358&s=electronics&sprefix=docsis+3.1+2.5gb+voice%2Celectronics%2C112&sr=1-28

You can get this, but you need a router that can do link aggregation to go over 1gbps on the ethernet

If the wire is long enough to reach the modem, you may just need a male coupler:
https://www.amazon.com/Connector-RFAdapter-Extension-Splitter-Amplifier/dp/B07WS6PS14/ref=sr_1_3

Hi, you need a cable modem, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-MB7621-Approved-Spectrum-Downloads/dp/B077BL65HS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3crid=1Z3F36SXEKYFQ&keywords=cable+modem&qid=1656619260&sprefix=cable+modem%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-3

Notice how the product says docsis 3.0? They’re like different generations of tech; that one is fine for your 300 mbps speed but for any speeds higher you need to get a new docsis 3.1 modem.

The router is fine. Just register your new MODEM with Xfinity, then connect router to modem and you’ll have internet access again like usual.

Buy one of these connectors, they come with a washer and nut. Put the washer and nut on the end of your connector and screw it in. Don't over tighten.

https://www.amazon.com/CIMPLE-CO-Extension-Connects-Satellite/dp/B07N6MTR4F

Sure... I used the official Xfinity app, and it did let me add my own modem (Motorola Surfboard SB6141, which is on the old list of supported models):

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.xfinity.digitalhome

Here is a consensus based on my own research on reddit.

Nordvpn, surfshark, cyberghost are the most popular on reddit with good reviews. These will be fine for 95 percent of users. Other runner ups and special mentions: Windscribe, Mullvad, PIA I got about 70 percent off using this Link

If you remove any more splits leading to the modem, make sure to grab a 6dB attenuator. They're not expensive, but it'll help pad your levels so they stay in a good range. 0 dBmV is what you should be aiming for.

Well, favorites can be handled by a slightly higher end one: https://www.amazon.com/Flipper-Big-Button-Remote-Seniors/dp/B002GR1YZ0/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/130-6491444-0988256?pd_rd_w=mpIc9&pf_rd_p=6b3eefea-7b16-43e9-bc45-2e332cbf99da&pf_rd_r=79FZKDWXYNDFM6YE98ZR&pd_rd_r=0ea55463-4a76-433b-bf8d-cdc537...

Just program the favorites in the remote and then it'll cycle through them. If they had access to favorites on the box, they might delete all their favorites and then you'd be back to having to reprogram them for them again.

Maybe get them a subscription to TV Guide so they have a guide?

> My desktop still tests out at 950Mbps with an ethernet connection. What did Comcast do?

> To test I tried 2 iPhones, 2 iPads and a Samsung phone all with the same results. I don't think it is my equipment. I am exchanging the modem today and have a service call scheduled for Monday if the new modem doesn't help.

> however the tech said it appeared to be on their equipment and they have had a problem with this in my area.

Like other Redditors have mentioned, the wired throughput is still 950 mbps, so something is affecting you in the WiFi realm.

Odds are WiFi contention is affecting your wireless throughput.

In other words, a neighbor (who may be the other person reporting slow WiFi issues in your neighborhood) is now using the same WiFi channel that you are using.

A quick site survey with a WiFi Analyzer app would quickly (dis)prove this theory.

I use this one:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_US&gl=US

It's a fairly generic power cord that's used by many types of devices (PS1/PS2, etc), you sure you don't have an extra one lying around? I have like 8 of them.

https://www.amazon.com/POWSEED-Polarized-PlayStation-Companion-Multimedia/dp/B01N55M4LZ/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_i=B01N55M4LZ&psc=1

"1GB is really 600Mbps".

Where the hell are you getting these numbers? Lol. 1 gigabit = 1 gigabit (1000mbps). It's just math mate. Or, more technically, the fastest most bus speeds allow for the switches/routers is 960mbps. I got 800-950mbps consistently with Xfinity's old 1G plan before they rolled out the 1200mbps plans.

And if you're talking megabits to megabytes, then it's a 1 byte to 8 bits ratio. So 1200megabits per second = 150 megabytes per second (150 x 8 = 1200).

Also, what is RG6 Ultra Coax? There is no such spec. If you mean the Lowes Ultra Pro coax, that stuff isn't supposed to be ran in-wall, and has poor shielding. It's meant for indoor use only (not in-wall, but throughout the house). So that's probably the first thing you should consider replacing with tri or quad-shielding RG6 coax. This is probably the main reason you're getting such a poor connection.

You don't need expensive cable either. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Connectors-Shielded-Satellite-33532/dp/B002HESF4K $18 50ft in-wall rated quad-shielded RG6 coax.

Ultimately, man, take some time to learn these things before assuming how the network works based on personal experience.

Amazon Warehouse
sold and shipped by Amazon

$34.96

ARRIS Surfboard SBV2402 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem | Certified for Xfinity Internet & Voice (Black) for Plans up to 800 Mbps

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Surfboard-Internet-Certified-SBV2402/dp/B07M9J3YZM/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=xfinity+modem&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&qid=1644731712&s=warehouse-deals&sprefix=xfinity+mode%2Cwarehouse-deals%2C56&sr=8-14

10/100/1000, 2.4 and 5ghz. Same speeds on both 2.4 & 5, though network connection is at minimum 130 on receive (2.4) and more normally 300+ over 5ghz in the house. This is the router, but I re-flashed with dd-wrt and have run that since I got it a few years ago.

> ppened to my grandparents, they also got a $512 bill for the month of May that Comcast says is supposed to be from watching Netflix for a week when family was visiting. Most of that time wasn't even spent in the house and no one was downloading anything. My grandmother is mad at me for telling her to dispute this but I feel like this has to be a mistake that should be investigated. The whole data cap thing is just a racket an

My biggest gripe on all this is not only did they increase the data cap from 300gb to 1tb, they also capped the amount they can charge in overages: http://www.consumerreports.org/tv-services/comcast-promises-data-cap-overages-wont-cost-you-more-than-200-a-month/

This is where I'm getting my $200 amount from, I'm not just dreaming this up. They changed their rules on June 1, but I didn't get my bill for may until late June. This means that as a company they knew for some time they were changing their policies, and are just squeezing the last few customers out of the additional $$ that they can.

Just for clarification...this is not the MAC address of any of your home network devices. This is a MAC address of a laptop, tablet, or most likely a cell phone that has authenticated, thereby associating its MAC with your Xfinity account. MACs over wireless are notoriously easy to grab.

Okay, try this to see which channels are clogged and make sure you aren't on one of them. This could very well be the router itself, but might as well give this a shot to see if you can avoid spending money. :)

Check this link for directions. There is also a link to 'Nirsoft WifiInfoView' (free) software which will give you information about the channels used in all the wifi routers in your area:

http://www.howtogeek.com/197268/how-to-find-the-best-wi-fi-channel-for-your-router-on-any-operating-system/

I got the $80 deal with contract bc of zero competition in my suburb (and was ~$115 no contract for some reason).

I'm pleased

Thanks for pushing me over the edge, I guess :P

There's various reasons a browser speedtest may not be able to hit 1Gbps, try the speedtest Windows application:

https://www.speedtest.net/apps/desktop

If it's still slow with the desktop app, try entering:

netsh int tcp set global autotuninglevel=normal

in a command prompt and running the speedtest again.

Setting your autotuning to settings other than normal has been well known to prevent people from hitting Gigabit speeds.

Yeah. I have this modem, which is 3.1 set up with the gigabit plan.
https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Approved-Comcast-Gigablast-MB8600/dp/B0723599RQ/

I get 947 down and 42 up with speedtest.
https://www.speedtest.net/result/9390534953

Buy your own cable modem (and stop paying rental fees), then use whatever router you want. I have two of these modems set up at different residences, and they are fine. Works well with gigabit.
https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-Approved-Comcast-Gigablast-MB8600/dp/B0723599RQ/

I get 947 down and 42 up with speedtest.
https://www.speedtest.net/result/9390534953

Transmit packet loss is related to the upstream power level your CM is transmitting at. Buy a 10db attenuator and throw it in front of the coax going to your cable modem.

https://www.amazon.com/10-DB-Attenuator-Pad-Each/dp/B0013L56OK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=10db+attenuator&qid=1643488429&sprefix=10db+att%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-2

did try Prepaid App? its on Android and Apple.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.xfinity.xfinityprepaid&hl=en_US&gl=US

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xfinity-prepaid/id1436535939

Yes, the signals are too high and it just as bad as being too low. You need an attenuator like this one: 10 DB Attenuator Pad - 1 Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013L56OK/

Be aware that it will RAISE your upstream levels too. So don't use one that will make your upstream levels out of spec. Keep upstream levels under 50 dBmV.

This is not correct, the modem is capable of 686 according to the manufacturer, you can even see it on the box here: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-Docsis-Packaging/dp/B00MA5U1FW

Comcasts site will tell you modems are compatible when they really are, they just remove older modems or say they aren't compatible. I have activated lots of "incompatible" modems by telling them its a different model and they all work fine.

I have this modem and I am using with 600mbps internet with comcast. I consistently get about 550mbps on it.

The modem is capable of 686 according to the manufacturer, you can even see it on the box here: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-Docsis-Packaging/dp/B00MA5U1FW

I have this modem and I am using with 600mbps internet with comcast. I consistently get about 550mbps on it.

to add to what /u/sadatay said, this is what is called franchise agreements with anti-competition covenants.

Here is a book on this exact topic:

https://books.google.com/books?id=tQB3401-ioEC&dq=franchise+agreement&source=gbs_navlinks_s

Sounds good.

I picked up the new modem and was able to put that into bridge mode. Speeds and general connectivity seem better. I'm consistently hitting 120 on fast.com which I was getting more like 90 at best before. That tool you put me on to still generally cycles between excellent/good/poor on the suggested channels.

There is a way to block it, try adblock plus. Follow the short guide here:

https://adblockplus.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17523

This can mess up some sites, and if you ever feel it is you can disable ABP temporarily, but you just have to add the following filters:

comcast_content

.main-wrapper

Not yet, the replacements I found (link below) didn't include a router so I avoided the hassle for now but will be looking again soon, good luck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGPPNZD/ref=sspa\_dk\_detail\_3?psc=1p13NParams&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzT1hCMkZZOVczQ0lLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQyMDgyMUhSUTNIWFBLTUJHMCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjQ2NDA0MURVWkowUkdGRzgxUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2Rld...

Went back and look at previous posts you said you are paying for 800 Mbps but you don't have a modem that supports your speed tier with Comcast. You also went from a router that was very outdated to a router that is less outdated but still not really meant to handle that kind of speed. What you must understand is that your internet is only going to be as fast as the weakest link. Some of this was already said in your previous post but I will say it here now.

1. Get a router that supports Wifi 6, they are not expensive anymore and the standard brought with it many different enhancements outside of a raw speed increase in terms of Wifi.
2. Upgrade your modem to a DOCSIS 3.1 modem that is approved by your provider(Comcast)
3. Set up new equipment out the box and test before you go in and mess with things

If you ignore the above and want to do what you are currently doing then factory reset the router and downgrade your speed to the next level down. There is 0 point to pay for something you can't use.

With your current router, you can expect at best 300mbps-400mbps over Wifi and probably something like 700-800 over hardwired. That Netgear has known issues with various firmware and its just lacks features to meet today's needs since many things that got implemented for later iterations of Wifi 5 routers were optional and not a core part of the specification like with Wifi 6. Here is a link to a super affordable Wifi 6 Router that I have heard good things about to just highlight that you don't gotta break the piggy bank https://www.amazon.com/Dynalink-DL-WRX36-8-Stream-Wireless-3-6Gbps/dp/B096K9SVCT

I checked it on a different website and was given a upload speed of 560 Mbps (this was on fast.com).

Forgive me as I'm pretty tech illiterate, I assume that there isn't anything that I can do about the VPN that my company is providing? I spoke to a few of my co-workers and some are not having the same issue as I am, while others are.

download speeds are dynamic and related to the location and traffic from where it's coming from, so they will fluctuate, that isn't instability.

a speed test, like fast.com will show you you average speed for the test duration

sir or madam, if you want anyone to take you seriously

do not talk about your in game experience, only speak of the results on internet speed test (like fast.com)

the technicians , and myself don't give a shit about your game experience, that has too much to do with your computer and it's components and the amount of malware you have loaded it up with looking at farm animal porn.

Have you tried other tests? I have not been able to max out a gigabit connection with the Ubiquiti speed test, but I haven't tried recently.

Try fast.com, speedtest.net, and dslreports.com.

A. Yes, I usually test between 900-940 on different speed test sites. I only see around 40 upload, but my area only has 3 upstream channels and it has always been a little lower.

B. Yes and no. It disables all routing functions to the end user. It leaves the XfinityWiFi hotspot active unless you disable it through xfinity.

C. Yes if you subscribe to xFi Advantage which is currently $15 monthly. It is going up to $20 in some areas soon.

D. No, the unlimited data is through you own connection, not their hotspot. It is the same as paying the $50 montly for unlimited data.

I use the XB6 and have had no issues whatsoever with it in bridge mode connected to my unifi setup. I use 2-3 TB a month data, and the $15 xFi Advantage covers it all. It has been a good modem to me, haven't seen the issues others report.

Speedtest Result

What exactly is a coax cable?

If it's anything like this, I am not sure if I do or do not have it.

Also, my parents use some kind of switch to turn my internet on and off. Not exactly sure where or what it is, but I'm not sure if that may be causing problems.

Even so, the whole entire house's internet has been dying, regardless if it was ethernet or wifi.

If you browse with HTTPS (encryption), your ISP can't view or tamper with the connection. Although, Comcast should not be doing this in the first place.

You can use this browser extension to ensure you are being delivered the secure version of the page. You can even block all unencrypted connections entirely.

What do you expect from Comcast...

Looking at https://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_note8-8505.php

And then collapsing the network section...

4G bands LTE band 1(2100), 2(1900), 3(1800), 4(1700/2100), 5(850), 7(2600), 8(900), 12(700), 13(700), 17(700), 18(800), 19(800), 20(800), 25(1900), 26(850), 28(700), 32(1500), 38(2600), 39(1900), 40(2300), 41(2500), 66(1700/2100)

Then looking here....

https://www.phonearena.com/news/Cheat-sheet-which-4G-LTE-bands-do-AT-T-Verizon-T-Mobile-and-Sprint-use-in-the-USA_id77933

It looks like your phone should be compatible with most of their network tech... namely 2(1900), 4(1700), 12(700)

You still need to ensure the phone is unlocked, but it has compatible hardware.

Have you checkout the Play Station Vue? I It has the Disney channel and you can stream up to 5 devices at once. It has network TV also. What do your wife and kids watch on the Disney channel. Some movies and shows are on Net-Flix too. Also some people just do all Comcast for the convenience of having everything on one bill and that's ok too. You will enjoy having faster internet trust me.

Pricing depends on the contract you sign. Comcast gives a lot of goodies in the first year then they jacked the price up in the second year. It is all spell out in the two year agreement.

https://www.playstation.com/en-us/network/vue/faq/

Xfinitywifi is not reliable enough for full time uses. Your options are

Expect good days and bad days

Use something better

Get something to bind two Xfinitywifi connections together so you have failover:

https://speedify.com/blog/internet-speed/fix-xfinity-wifi-hotspot-not-working/

Can you try an ad-blocking app such as Ad-Away to see if it would work around this issue? Otherwise you may be waiting on HBO to update the app. If you're rooted, that is.

Cool! I had no idea.

edit: It looks like the CableCARDs can plug into some TV tuners (such as this one), so there's definitely still the possibility of rolling your own HTPC with encrypted cable.

Either get a smart TV that has apps (e.g., Sony/Android, Samsung/Galaxy, LG/Content, Roku TV, etc.) or else get an external streaming box or stick (Roku, Fire, Apple?, etc.) and plug it into any TV with an HDMI cable that's often supplied with the streaming device.

Each has its own app store that you set up an account on and download apps just like you do on your phone. Xfinity's streaming app is on all of the larger app stores. Example might be Roku's app store and you can install all the apps you want (Netflix, Amazon, Disney, Xfinity, YouTube, etc.) and when you're using the device, it shows a menu of your apps to choose from.

Roku's been around the longest and has the biggest store with over 21,000 channels. If it's just regular HD TV, the cheapie $25 special will work fine; but right now Roku has the base 4K/HDR on sale for the same 25 bucks. Here's Roku's web store to look at and if you're logged in and pick apps there, your Roku on the same account will install anything you choose. Or it's easier and faster to just do it on the TV/Roku with its remote.

First time you fire up the Xfinity app, it's going to want you to login with your account info. I think it tells you to login on a PC or mobile device which gives you a code to tap into the streaming app which makes that login a little easier. Just follow its instructions.

The app is also on iTunes and Google Play so you can also stream to your phone or tablet. I don't know why, but the Xfinity app on all of the stores is called "beta" and has been that way for several years now.

Ditch cable, get a Roku or other supported streaming device ($50, one time fee), and get Sling and stream the channels you want. The Orange package is $20/month and has Disney/Lifetime/TBS and other channels, they have a Comedy addon for $5/month that adds MTV (and other channels), total $25/month. Then ditch phone, get an Ooma (one time fee, $100) which costs around $5/month for unlimited calling in the US/Canada. So your new bill would be whatever you pay for Internet (say $75/month) + $25/month + $5/month = $105/month, huge savings. Your savings in the first month alone will pay for the Ooma hardware ($100) and a streaming set top box ($50). https://www.sling.com/service http://www.ooma.com/

your modem signals are fine.. you have wifi issues.. sounds like your devices are having trouble connecting..

it could be the wifi radio on the router or your devices is going bad or it could be something is causing interference with the wifi..

first thing I would try is set the wifi on the modem/router to use a set channel instead of set at auto..

also try a wifi analyzer to see how congested your airspace is.. http://lizardsystems.com/wi-fi-scanner/index.php or https://www.acrylicwifi.com/en

either one will show you what's using which channel, find a channel other than 1 and 6 that has fewer devices broadcasting and set for that channel..

also make sure the wifi is set to use 20mhz wide channels and not 40mhz

if that doesn't help, consider if possible, moving the wifi router to a different location.. this might be hard to do tho if you are using an all-in-one modem/wifi device..