It will look even better with this and 15 minutes of your time!:
In all seriousness, I cannot recommend THIS guy enough for your rigs.
This is pretty funny!
I'm not going to start pointing fingers at anyone saying they copied X or Y. What I will say is that NLR's stand with this sort of 'X' shaped frame was not the first one on the market.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/GTR-Model-Steering-Wheel-Stand/dp/B00BF0KFA4
NLR should maybe start sending these guys some petty messages. Not only did they also steal their design but they somehow got their hands on a time machine and when back to beat them to the punch.
We were concerned people would think our stand was just the same as theirs at a glance which I can totally understand. The frame is the same shape, it's bound to happen. There are some differences though:
1: Our mechanism for controlling the angle of the pedal plate is different
2: Our wheel plate angle is adjustable, theirs is not.
3: We have adjustable rubber based feet on the underside. Allows for increased stability on uneven surface, stops sliding, stops damage to your floor. Not only that but you can attach our lockable caster wheels in the same place so you can roll it away when not in use. Works with our cockpit attachment which will be coming next year.
We charge way less for more.
We took it to the next level.
I wanted a button box but didn't want to spend time or money on one. So, I came up with this instead.
Total: $18.09
Thanks everyone for all the positive feedback. Building the rig has been a fun process. A little history and details about this setup:
My goal was to make a rig that looked semi-presentable in our living room aaand use up some soft maple the was leftover from our recent kitchen remode. I have SolidWorks models of all the components except for the seat mount. I’d be more than happy to share the models/assemblies if desired. The unistrut base was the foundation to an adjustable rig that can accommodate all ages (I have young kids). The chair was a lucky amazon find. I looked for a looooong time for something that fit the rig, looked comfy, and seemed easy to modify.
Upholstered 2 Piece Linen Dining Chairs, 19" W inches (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQXRZHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lbkzDbQEKS6B4
So far the family approves...and so do I.
Aside from the inevitable hardware upgrades if you start to get serious about simracing, here are things you could fix right now:
Cable management (use something like this)
Stable chair for harder, more controlled braking.
As far as upgrading the hardware, once you have a stable seating position you can upgrade the brake spring on those pedals or even make the jump to load cell pedals (eg CSL elite + LC). I don't think upgrading your wheel is honestly that beneficial unless you're going straight to a direct drive, but you'll probably need some form of dedicated rig for that. An ultrawide monitor could enhance your FOV, or you could get triple screens, or VR (depending on which sims you play some of these options may not be available/well supported).
For what it's worth, I don't buy into the dedicated rig ideology, I think you can have a very functional rig with great hardware without it, which is what I've done with mine to save on space and for aesthetic reasons (check my post history for photos, it's my most recent post)
What? Are you kidding? When was the last time you tried rFactor 2? The new (although not so new anymore, it's been more than a few months now) rFactor 2 UI is great. It's all very condensed and easy to use with all the options available right in front of you. Visually, it even looks good. You wouldn't even think this was made by the same people who created the original awful, useless, and ugly UI from before.
Honestly I think Assetto Corsa and especially Project CARS could learn a few things from the new UI.
The wheel was super easy to set up for me. One of the easiest out there actually. The only snag I hit was having to check "allow game to override settings" in the Logitech profiler so that rF2 would automatically set the steering lock angle.
awesome! i can recommend 2 mods:
Bodnar cable mod: separates pedals from wheel base, increases stepping rate from 8hz to 10hz, lowers latency, and lowers loss from vibration/noise of the wheel base. plug and play, no drivers needed.
https://www.ricmotech.com/bodnar-cable-logitech-pedals
Glodorm spring mod: makes the brake and gas stiffer and feel like they have a further depth than they do, which makes it easier to modulate throttle/braking when driving on the limit.
https://www.amazon.com/Glodorm-Upgrade-Throttle-Spring-LOGITECH/dp/B07ZT5VJSB/
I ran both of these mods on my g29 for 2+ years before upgrading to fantec v3 pedals. these mods made a huge difference in my lap times and made the g29 more enjoyable long term.
Very nice!
So I looked up the seat on Amazon and the blue one is listed $5.99 plus $30 shipping. Just ordered it, we'll see what happens. Imgur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZBPM728/ref=twister_B00ZBP3C54?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Definitely just someone trying to earn from referral links but anyway if you don't want to click it's $288 from Amazon if anyone cares, here's the direct non-referral link https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Dual-Motor-Feedback-Responsive-Playstation/dp/B00Z0UWWYC
Indeed, that list is majorly disinformative.
Also rF2's physics, FFB and AI are a major step above the rest, and has car modifications to some extent.
> The Kodi ZR, in the true rFactor style, comes with an epic (almost 60) tuning options. There are three class packages that include a selection from three rear wings, three side skirts, three front end (aero) packages, three rear end (aero) packages, three tire options, three suspension types, two different steering options (standard and drifting), three brake disc selections, three hoods, two horn variants, four exhausts, two computer chips, four engines, three clutch options, three flywheels, four transmission options, two differentials, two fuel tank sizes and two cockpit layout variants (that can be further adjusted by removing weight from the cockpit under weight reduction).
even better (imo) you can get office chair wheels with brakes on them. best of both worlds, set the brakes when you race, and unlock when you dont. you dont even need to set all the brakes. 2 is enough to keep the chair planted.
i got these and they worked out great.
The wheel you listed is arguably less than entry-level, as it doesn’t have force feedback and that’s arguably one of the most important parts of any serious sim racing wheel.
Since your budget’s $150 i’d suggest the Thrustmaster T150, decent, fairly small but it’s got FFB and is a solid jumping in point to the sim racing hobby/market.
Burnout Paradise is a riot :)
Codemasters games with the difficulty turned down and all the assists on are very kid friendly, Dirt 3 is pretty good fun and playable with all sorts, Grid is fun as well.
If you can go through the pain of setting up the xbox controller emulator then Sonic All Star Racing is fun :)
Apart from that, using MAME for Outrun and a few other emulators for things like Daytona USA.
The one thing you have to do when playing any non sim games tho' is to turn the wheel right down to under 180 normally, otherwise they're largely unplayable.
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1q3enNGMyrN-th8a-handbrake-plate-slim-fit. I had to modify the size a little bit to get it to fit on the makerbot mini I have at work. Also, make sure you print it upside down...or bad things will happen....trust me...
For shifters, generally micro lever switches are used. A nice, tactile way of making the shifter is to use a pair of small neodymium magnets so that it holds it in the open position and you pull the paddle to separate the magnets and then it presses the switch. For a hinge it can be as simple as a small bolt held in place between the paddle and paddle-housing.
Looking up DIY Wheel tutorials online is a good place to see how some designs are put together. AMStudio is a great channel for some of this stuff too. Here's his video on some DIY Magnetic Paddle Shifters.
For real though, I've been looking for racing gloves more fem/girly for a bit now. I think these are them on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Handup-Miami-DOS-XX-Large/dp/B08573YYD4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Handup+Gloves+flower&qid=1623472916&sr=8-1
My order is already in lol
You had a $1200+ budget, but couldn't spring for an extra $23 for a monitor mount? That's an absurdly tight budget, which makes it seem like you probably couldn't really afford the DD1 in the first place. Since you definitely shouldn't be spending literally all your available money on a simracing rig. Or any one thing, really.
...and the last thing you want floating around your pedals and pivot points are pieces of loose grit from sandpaper, the material is much harder than metal for it to be able to work.
Instead of skateboard griptape/nonskid there is also a self adhesive product for boats that's like griptape for bare feet. It's rubberized and grippy with shoes but won't generate particles that will ruin your nice gear... also comes in all colors
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Way-Traction-Rubberized-Material/dp/B00HUGSDGK
https://safetydirectamerica.com/shop/anti-slip-tapes/coarse-non-abrasive-anti-slip-tape/
Yes!
First install 'equalizer APO' https://sourceforge.net/projects/equalizerapo/
Then install 'Peace', a GUI for equalizer APO https://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/
It works great, easy to use, and you can turn it on and off on the fly. Cheers!
I think you'd enjoy Assetto, rFactor 2 has a demo http://rfactor.net/web/rf2/ iRacing has very well structured leagues and lots of real race drivers competing. Dirt Rally if you want some of that kind of fun.
Sounds like wishful thinking on the update. Slightly cheaper than normal, but it dipped lower a few months ago, and it's really not far outside the normal variance.
It is fun I must admit. A tip for cable management, if you order 10mm cable sleeving you can fit roughly three to four cables in it and it fits nicely in the t slots
I'm not sure you can derive the load capacity from the geometry of the cut out on load cells.
Here's a 100KG load cell with a similar cut out as the one pictured: https://www.amazon.com/Parallel-Electronic-Precision-Weighting-Sensor/dp/B08D3DLMHW
For your particular situation I'd recommend buying some bed wheel caster cups. They're theoretically made to stop beds from moving around, but work fantastic on chairs. It's a bit of a hassle because you have to put them underneath your wheels before driving but it's a 30 second job and will change your driving experience completely!
This way you can use harder brakes without worrying about rolling, and you'll notice how much you hung onto the wheel to avoid it before (been there, done that lol).
Mine are from Slipstick, I've had them for a couple of years and they've given me no problems. You can find them for like 10£ on Amazon. I'm sure most other brands will be fine too though. Link to give you an idea if what I'm talking about
Yeah! 19 keys, although the "Num Lock" key seems to be proprietary to the keypad and when it's pressed it switches the keypad to alternate keys. (Arrows, PgDn, PgUp, etc) so I tossed the iRacing logo on it and just have to make sure I don't press it and the light on the keypad is lit so it works properly.
All in all I get 18 functions out of it using AutoHotKey.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07NVJ964T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D2D.Fb8N77YKP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Fine, I'll bend. I got 3 months of iRacing for 5 dollars thanks to a code from http://www.retailmenot.com/view/iracing.com I'll test it and see how it is. Will report back tomorrow ;)
(My wrath shalt consumeth thou all if thou hast betrayed your divine racing God)
I recently just purchased the rig metal triple screen mount, and I’ve got to say it was a joy to assemble! I got two more of these which are awesome to complete the setup!
Sorry for German amazon. Look for "rubber castor cups". Those have been an absolute game changer for me until I got a rig.
It's this Next Level Racing stand from Amazon, minus the ugly stickers. It's really solid but not super adjustable. It doesn't go low enough for this seat, so I have a 4 inch platform for the Playseat to sit on.
Pro tip. Order some expandable braided tubing (like a Chinese finger trap) to really clean up those cables.
For example: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074LVPH3J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_fU73Fb7CAQ66C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bit of modification of these two below. The adapter is absolutely not rated for the weight though 🤭
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07466DJ1P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_JF4YFbP3JNXR8?psc=1
And
Why not go for the Samsung 49" ultra wide
https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/gaming/49--chg90-qled-gaming-monitor-lc49hg90dmnxza/
Current $500 off on special from Amazon!
If you want also build for yourself: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/audi-gt3-steering-wheel-fully-3d-printable
Hmmmm, it does have at least one car from the greatest family of cars it seems. http://rfactor.net/web/rf2/cars/chevrolet-corvette-c6-r/ and if I don't like this game it's safe to assume I don't like this genre. I'll probably pick it up tomorrow. Thanks brother, sorry I took so much of your time :)
Try the demo and make the decision your self. Latest demo (released only 2 weeks ago) includes Karts, Formula Renault 3.5 & AC Cobra around Atlanta Motorsport Park.
I also own everything, except rFactor 2 (and Project CARS)... this latest demo has put me on the fence, and I think it could easily be my next purchase. There's a steady stream of updates and content coming from first party, which is good... because to me it seems that the third party content is much slower compared to Assetto Corsa, like all the old rF1 mod teams went there.
I know this isn't quite GPL, but Live For Speed might be a decent solution for toaster-type PCs too and definitely worth consideration. Plus, it generally works well with modern computers and less modern too.
Listen here, idiot. We've had enough of your obsessive nonsense and harassment. You caused constant trouble on our forums for a decade or so (I'm not going to waste my time measuring it). Once while serving a forum ban you defaced your account like this:
https://www.lfs.net/vatmoss/dawesdust_12.jpg
Now take a look at 1.5 of our Terms and Conditions and you will see why your ONE SINGLE ACCOUNT dawesdust_12 was banned.
I have this one which is known as the "ebay handbrake" when people discuss it, should be a bunch of different sellers at various prices for basically the same product, and its moddable! I havent done anything to do it and it works great for me drifting
Well I wouldn't really trust casters on a rig anyway, locking or not. Maybe on a rig that where the seat and stand are connected, but I'd just anticipate that moving around, even when locked. It looks like those aren't meant for that stand anyway, but you could probably make it work with a little drilling. But again, I wouldn't go that route.
But really, if moving 45 pounds around is giving you back pains, that sounds like something you need to address. 45 pounds... really isn't that heavy, assuming you don't have some sort of physical disability or are elderly. Make sure you're lifting with proper technique. Maybe incorporate some stretching and exercise into your daily routine. Maybe even take up some light weightlifting. You'll be better off for it in the long run, and you'll feel stronger, healthier, more capable, and generally just feel better overall.
But in the meantime, you might try a furniture dolly like THIS . You'll still need to lift it up on there to move it to where you store it, but at least you won't be carrying it.
Fortunately, 24v 10A power supplies are ~$20 and that looks like a standard Molex 4-pin ATX power connector...
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Transformer-Universal-Regulated-Switching/dp/B0896XTJ14
https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Micro-Connector-Power-Cable/dp/B00O5ZF49I
Even the four pin output is likely just two rails. An industrial grade psu, 12v/20a, can be had for 20usd (https://www.amazon.com/MENZO-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B06VWV5YCH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=12v+20a+power+supply&qid=1622586559&sprefix=12v+20a+&sr=8-3). Add in the cost of the molex (1 dollar?) and a couple tens of feet of 16awg, silicone wire for 10usd, a little bit of soldering and presto: a 240w psu for less than 50usd...
There's three tiers of wheels:
Tier 1 is the Logitech offerings and the low end TMs. (TMX and T150) They work, but are loud, and "clacky", and aren't as smooth or precise as the higher tiers. (Price Range $150 - $400)
Tier 2 is TM's T300, TX, and higher. Also Fanatecs lower end offerings. Belts offer a much smoother and quieter response. You also can get more torque from them. (Price Range $300 - $1,000)
Tier 3 is the King Tier. Direct Drive wheels use a wheel directly mounted to a motor shaft. This can get you the absolute best experience and power. Downside is price. (Price range $1,000 and up.)
If you want to dip your toes without going in too deep, look at the TM T300 or TX series. You can find them for around ~$400. (T300 RS)
If you want better, build a setup through Fanatec. Though, once you're done piecing everything together, you're looking at $1,000+.
If I am seeing things correctly, it looks like the Vesa adapter is recessed so the arm is interfering with the edge of the recessed part of your monitor. You can fix this by putting some stand offs between your monitor and the Vesa adapter. Something like these should do (again assuming I am seeing your picture correctly), just make sure to get one long enough to get the Vesa adapter far enough from the rear face of your monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WR6P2NF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SGJMSDWKH8SNS1HTH46M
That’s how it is. It uses a “Mixed belt-pulley and gears system with metal ball-bearing axle” for force feedback. You’re feeling the gears.
If you scroll down a little on the Amazon page for the wheel there’s a little diagram of how it works.
1) it depends on what stand you are looking at. Some may be compatible only with certain wheels but generally they support most wheels out there.
2) I'm in Canada too and I bought NextLevel F1-GT cockpit from amazon.ca with a $100 discount. So it was $599 CAD and FREE shipping cause it was an Amazon Prime item. I see that they took it out of Prime and it no longer is sold as a Prime item. Also, I see that they listed F-GT cockpit, which is a new version of F1-GT. Basically they style and all is the same but it has quite a few important improvements. Here it is on amazon.ca
Edit: you might be just lucky. Canada Computers has F1-GT listed here for $599 CAD That's the one I have. It's great but as I said F-GT has some nice improvements.
I would not recommend to go with Playseats. They are not sturdy and that stand between the legs is just annoying. I had Playseat Evolution Alcantara for about a year and while it was a better option than just using my office chair, it was still not comfortable and ideal. Also, it was quite narrow in shoulders and the edges of the backrest would cut into my shoulders.
That's pretty much what is easily available on Canadian market. So, everything else would be more so an international order. So, you would have to count in shipping and customs surcharges (had to pay quite an amount for Fanatec gear, so it is painful).
Why upgrade from the Fanatecs so soon? They're pretty solid. My inverted clubsports have taken a crapton of abuse and have good feel.
Biggest upgrade in my simracing has been this, FWIW.
I spend most of my time in iracing and I like the DashMeterPro (DPM) app for my android tablet. It cost ~~$550~~ $5.50 for one game (looks like the AC and pCARS version work together if you play those two games)
if you look around there a couple of free apps out there but not having used them I cannot pass comments on them.
best of luck!
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sensadigit.dashmeterforiracing&hl=en
I second this. If it's your first wheel and first foray into sim racing I'd get the T150 by itself and hit the limits of it before you expand the setup. It's where I'm at, and I'm forcing myself to finish a number of games with just the vanilla wheel before I buy anything else.
It sounds like you're not operating with unlimited funds, so it's probably a good idea to take this in steps. The T150 is upgradable, so when you outgrow it then Thrustmaster sells a shifter and three-pedal set you can attach to it.
I've seen the T150 go on sale for $150 and even as low as $130 on black friday but without any sort of pattern, so if you're not in a rush it'll probably do that again.
There is a lot of rfactor 2 information here:
http://rfactor.net/web/rf2/devscorner/
Then you can read on the forum here:
http://isiforums.net/f/forumdisplay.php/44-Track-Modding
For example check out the "Bare minimum" sticky thread for basic stuff on getting started.
While the 2012 Formula ISI might be an older model and chassis, this car is used by a large number of rFactor 2 Grand Prix racing leagues around the world. Something more modern is in the pipeline, but we wanted to bring the 2012 car up-to-date before that (mainly because a lot of people don’t like the modern cars).
The vast majority of work went into the physics and tires, there are only minor visual tweaks.
Non-Steam: 108 MB
Steam link: Coming…
Changelog:
– Tyre Tweaks.
– AI cut corners less.
– Downforce slightly increased (about 3+%).
– Faster pit times for tyre changes.
– Reduced max toe angles.
– Minor setup tweaks.
– Minor chassis tweaks, including better unsprung masses.
– New steering system.
– Recalculated brake system, including reduced brake bias adjustability range.
– .75kg fuel steps now (near enough to 1L)
– Removed redundant class filter from .veh files “ISI_FM02”
– Tyres updated to use CPM, including wet tyre improvements.
– Moved to Ultrachassis (which includes proper working chassis flex, DOF improvements, additional compliance’s, and quicker (more direct) steering).
– AI correlation tweaks.
– Placed pushrods near upright to decrease inaccurate ‘degressive rates’.
– Tiny Aero tweaks. Including very slight reduction to turbulent air.
– Latest sound attenuation tweaks.
– Slight optimization to LOD distances.
– Some additional newer tracks added to trackconfigs.ini
Rain is drivable, multiple legaues have done wet races for a long while, but only the car updates released after build 930 have finished rain tires with the updated parameters. The older cars are in the process of getting those updates too.
Revised rain effects are also in the works.
As far as I know AI are indeed affected by tire wear, though the AI don't use the exact same tire physics as the player does (that would of course be impossible due to the amount of system resources needed). So it's hard to make a direct comparison.
Someone with more knowledge on the subject will hopefully make a more detailed explanation.
Until them, perhaps take a look around here. Lot of good information on the ins and outs of rF2: http://rfactor.net/web/rf2/devscorner/
Hey you can use this instead of simhub: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.stryder_it.simdashboard
I was thinking of buying a monitor but then thought of svaing up for a VR headset, is it worth it ?
I have a VRS wheel. There is a dummy plug in the back of the control box that can be replaced with an Ethernet cable connected to any stop you can buy off of Amazon.
Basically you cut the end off of one side of the Ethernet cable, screw the correct wires to stop and it works perfectly.
I am not home so I cannot tell you the 2 wires but it should take you 15 min.
I bought this stop and used an old Ethernet cable. Much cheaper than simucube.
https://www.amazon.com/Liberty%EF%BC%8CAC660V-Plastic-Emergency-Mushroom-Button/dp/B07RRB3HWS
A ton better! You set them up and create profiles for each puck in Simhub for focus impact/vibrations. I have a large aurasound puck under my seat for engine and gear shifts, and small 32mm pucks at each hip and 2 on my lower back simulating the 4 corners of the vehicle.
Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 Thruster 32mm Exciter 40W 4 Ohm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q3M8PCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E72VG9T40XXR1FFWW1AM Those are the small pucks I use, but you can find them cheaper on other sites I’m sure.
consider your long term plan. if you want to eventually go triples, its ideal to buy 3x of the same thing all at once. if you get one now, it might be out of production by the time you want two more.
also, ive turned some people onto this monitor. 32" 165hz 1080p. its a pretty bangin deal as long as you dont need/want 1440p. i have 3x of them and can totally recommend them. maybe this is valuable to you.
Tennis racket wrap. Basically spongey tape. Would grippy but also fairly comfy for long sessions, without getting your hands sticky like some other cloth tapes
This ^^^ Consider ceiling mounting your monitor. It will remove the clutter off of the floor around the rig. And you can find a mount that is telescoping and can pivot so you can get the correct POV with the wheel just behind the servo like this: https://www.amazon.com/Barkan-29-Movement-Telescopic-Adjustment/dp/B07S6VF15T
Cable Management Box 3 Pack with 16 Cable Clips Set-Large & Medium & Small Wooden Style Cable Organizer Box to Hide Wires&Power Strips | Cord Organizer Box | Cable Organizer for Home & Office [Black] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S6SB5RJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DMMCWAE78D9EX1QEJ143?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Id recommend getting some cable boxes too for your surge protectors. I like this set a lot.
I just ordered these with my Rigmetal setup!
I'm a little excited and have been sharing this information to pretty much everybody unprovoked, I'm glad it actually applies here.
Looks like the magnetic shifters are going to be an extra purchase too Thrustmaster T Chrono Paddles Sf 1000 Edition
I believe this is the one I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GT1ZVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_bTzaGbNWQE63C?psc=1
I have a CSL Elite, Clubsport v3 pedals, a small button box, and the aiologs shifter and handbrake plugged into it. It seems to work fine without issue. I like that I can disconnect each one from my pc using the buttons without having to unplug anything.
Let me preface this by saying that I'm not giving you a recommendation, just giving you something to research on your own since my knowledge is limited to a 10 minute review I saw last night. The product is Acer's Windows Mixed Reality headset.
It is a bit cheaper at $259 and it has a higher resolution than both the Rift and Vive, but there are also some drawbacks like LCD screens and a few other things. One nice feature is that it does head tracking without the need for any external sensors.
Here's the link to it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PVLN2P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.2oqBbYBF9W6A
Here's the link to the review I mentioned: https://youtu.be/VCqfs6yg2XU
Hope this helps.
They do! Search wheel stands on Amazon and you'll find small metal stands meant to sit in front of a desk chair that have hard points for the pedals, wheel, and Shifter.
Here's an example: Next Level Racing 638370134683 Wheel Stand Add on https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B012TOREKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_POGYBb07NYXXD
They are probably like aqua socks. Works great for sim, lots of grip without the bulk and great feel for modulating the pedals, I use them daily.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082D2GF9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do you have the LUT values wrong way perhaps? The numbers should go from 0|0 at the top all the way down to 1|1 at the end. Every value on it's own line
Have you enabled your custom LUT file in the ff_post_process.ini file?
Lately I've been drawing my own LUT plots by hand and then digitizing those graphs into text files that I then convert to the AC LUT format. For instance using this: https://sourceforge.net/projects/graphixy/
Ignore anything that doesn't say verified.
The fact they actively seek reviews and have replied to a review in the past 30days is a point in my books for their integrity.
Im not sure about Simagic but MOZA uses NRG style/D1 spec pattern QRs.
As for wheels, i got a generic 350mm wheel and its super solid.
Steering Wheel, Akozon 14in/350mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09M9VH8Y1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The ultimate edition of the first Assetto Corsa is very cheap at the moment (GreenManGaming, Fanatical).
It's much better than the Project Cars games in terms of simulation, and it has a very talented and active modding community.
This was a fun little project that got started when I had to move my rig to an area with spotty Wifi signal. My phone's Simhub connection was dropping out mid-race which was really frustrating.
It uses a Nextion 4.3 display and some RGB Led Modules. STLs are here for free
Thanks! The cost was around 150€ and a lot of hours haha. I personally followed amstudio's tutorials (taking Arduino sketch) and purchased the designs here https://cults3d.com/es/modelo-3d/juegos/diy-ferrari-488-gt3-steering-wheel. The creator of the designs also helped me.
If you have additional questions, I am happy to help :)
I noticed a little bit too much play on the steering wheel hinge section. But thanks to 3d printing and some cool guy in Norway I fixed it. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/playseat-challenge-steering-wheel-bar-play-remover.
This improved the feel of the Playseat quite a bit.
Yeah sounds good for you then, have fun! If you end up wanting to add on a shifter, don't buy the addon from playseat, it's terrible. There are a few shifter mount solutions floating around now, probably the best I've seen is this 3D printed one. Check out his other 3D printed things for the challenge too, they're pretty neat.
> To that end ISI have not bothered to build a street car.
/u/Pio48 , this is inaccurate.
The AC 427, multiple versions of the Corvette C6, the Honda NSX 1991 and the 1999 Panoz roadster are all default road cars in rFactor 2.
http://rfactor.net/web/rf2/ Just scroll down...
Lime Rock Park has an undocumented small skidpad somewhere when you drive up the hill to the left at the end of the paddock.
Tiger-Moth is the Top Gear test track.
I haven't seen a dedicated skidpad track for rF2 though.
I remember I used one in the F1-Challenge 99-02 days.
Try the free LIVE FOR SPEED - https://www.lfs.net/
Try the multiplayer servers in Assetto corsa... there are quite a few where you meet people and drift , or run around in friendly laps on the Nordschleife.
For G27, the settings for Assetto are herE: https://www.reddit.com/r/assettocorsa/comments/343g9v/best_g27_settings/
I dont know about these games, but can't you just set up a local server for lan? At least LFS has a free dedicated host that you could configure for lans https://www.lfs.net/downloads In LFS you can also play over lan without a dedicated server
It's not on steam. It's available here https://www.lfs.net/?page=shop for 24 GBP. Try the demo first though. It comes with a formula BMW car and two GTi (125hp 4I engines, one fwd, one rwd) cars. S2 comes with stuff like caterham copies, turbo cars and a porsche 911 alike among other things.
Euro Truck Sim 2 doesn't even need mods now... proper FOV and triple screen support is now built in as of the latest build. Here's the article :D
Honestly beyond that I only know of iRacing and Assetto Corsa that does 100% proper for triple screens. the gMotor based games (rFactor, Reiza games, etc) somewhat do it... but they assume/force the side screens to render at 45 degree angles (no ability to change that).
If helps anyone, I 3D printed a mount that screws underneath the OpenWheeler pedal plate and allows you to mount a Gamer 2. You can grab the 3D design here:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/fgh7dhXIOZL-bass-shaker-mount
From looking at the comments .. how is this time for everybody?
GMT 1400 Sat
If your back starts to hurt from this seat, buy something similar to this. https://www.amazon.ca/Travelon-Support-System-Black-Size/dp/B001CZP9PS
Works way better then the support foam they send with that seat. Trust me it is a game changer, especially if you do not play in F1 position.
I swear these seats are not designed to be in the upright position, I have never needed a back support till I owned the next level racing f1-gt.
I've literally just ordered this same Cockpit, hopefully coming in the next week or so. I'll let you know how it goes. I've read a few other reddit posts about similar cockpit, (It's sold under a miriad of brands) and it seems to be fairly well received for the price. Heres the same on on Amazon (albeit with differnt branding) which you can read the reviews on.
I only ever wear shoes in the winter when the floor is cold. Over the years I've tried several types of shoes you see recommended - wrestling shoes, water/yoga shoes, Alpinestars, etc. - and by far the best I've found are OMP KS3 Karting Shoes
I bought a pair for $49 from Amazon Warehouse last year and they are amazing. I have more pedal feel with these than any other shoe I've tried. As a bonus they are pretty warm in the winter. They are worth the money even at full price, but if I ever see another pair pop up that cheap again, I'll buy them just so I can wear them out of the house.
Hell yea, I'm not sure if this link will show the exact ones I bought...but they have a Wolf in space on them. I don't know how high whoever made this artwork was when they made it, but I love them for it.
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Agreed. I had two 8-port hubs connected to my sim/backup system and between racing and flight sim peripherals, with 3 joysticks, I actually ran low on ports, so I got one of these and bolted it on to my cockpit. No problems - highly recommended.
I also got one of these for the USB HDMI ports for running 2 8" cockpit panel screens: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L4RK1M7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_GNK1NXF7N7P27NV3GYT6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Also highly recommended, and convenient to have those other ports.
I found these but not a fan. https://us.puma.com/en/us/pd/scuderia-ferrari-race-r-cat-motorsport-shoes-jr/306546.html?dwvar_306546_color=03
I'd take my river shoes over them. Super light, breathable, and tons of variations: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PP68J4V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There was some foot thingys on Amazon to replace the wheels. If your still having issues I'd give those a shot. link
If you use this (or something like it), it's plug-and-play with nothing else required. Windows will see it as a generic gamepad.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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If you want more buttons than what is available on a typical USB controller and want to do it cheap and super easy, just put 2 of these in your button box and use 2 USB cables.
There are more expensive routes and/or more technical routes but if you want something easy this is the way.
Also, most people use plastic electronic boxes (and they're easy to work with) but check out the metal ones, too. On a recent button box I made with (3) 2-way toggle switches and (6) momentary push buttons something like this was the perfect size:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HZ3X99M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mounted to my rig it feels super rigid and sounds completely dense with no button echo. Just enough size to fit what I wanted and the USB board.
Anyway, what I'm getting at with all of this is you don't have to break the bank and there are tons of options. Just make sure to buy quality buttons/toggles/rotary encodes/etc.
Get some casters with brakes. I got this ones from Amazon and I love them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D388GK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TTYXHC8YYV7AGDRBNZ3A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not only my chair doesn’t move at all anymore, but those casters are super silent in hardwood floor.
Hey, I have this monitor
https://www.amazon.com/27HC1R-Pbidpx-27-inch-Compatible-Monitor/dp/B08DG9JL1V?th=1&psc=1
It.is very good for the money. I would recommend. Due to the lower cost, you could get 3 of these. It would end up being about 600 us dollars. Or you could get just 1 ( that's what I have) it is curved, but it is not an obsessive amount of curve. I would recommend looking at it. And a 3 monitor set up is almost always better than a single large monitor.
All you have to do is 3D Print or buy a frame for it. It takes all of about 5 minutes to setup in SimHub, as the software needed is included.
I got a 3.2" Nextion screen for my rig, setup and mounted for under US $60. (~45 Euros)
That's not really a great deal.
You've been able to get a 4.2" Nextion touchscreen for years for under $70. (~60 Euros)
Pretty generic one, but with switches per port (don’t need to disconnect anything to disable it). Wasn’t the price listed, was tops $20-30 cad… Aukru USB 3.0 Hub 4 Ports Super Speed Data Transfer HUB with On Off Switch + 1 Charging Port with 5V 2A Powered Supply Adapter https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071VYCYS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_G3RKPYG77C0JPBAGD7TC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1