You seem to be into sturdy construction. You might find that printed parts would hold up better if you spread the load on them over a larger surface area by putting some washers under the heads of the screws. Star lock washers in combination with flat washers will keep the screws from loosening, too. Split ring lock washers don't work, so don't bother with them.
In the photo, the plastic is clearly deformed by the screws that anchor the part to the t-slot. You might want to make the plastic part a slightly tighter fit before you add the screw. That way it will deform less, again, reducing stress on the plastic part.
Finally, look into modifier meshes in Slic3r. They allow you to control fill density for specific areas in a print. In this case, you could make the fill right around the screw holes solid which would be much stronger.
> Any printer that runs Marlin
Not to be snarky, but Marlin is just printer software - it has no effect on infill. Infill is decided by the slicer, so any printer can do hexagon infill (aka honeycomb) with the right slicer.
Also, 3D honeycomb is where it's at.
that feature isn't really all that powerful or even special, or even limited to S3D.
Slic3r's version is about 1000x better because you can just place a mesh anywhere in your print to change ANY settings http://slic3r.org/blog/modifier-meshes
Simplify 3d might be fast and good at what it does, but it's severely lagging behind when it comes to a LOT of stuff.
1.2.9 is actually pretty old, and if you talk to the devs on irc they recommend you to use the daily builds from http://slic3r.org/download which would be the "Version 1.3.0-dev (automated fresh builds)" and development isn't dead, the community just primarily exists in the irc that's why the forums seems dead. for information on how to enter that information is on the right side.
For those about to say that slic3r has lost support, feast your eyes upon THIS!
spoiler: a beta build for 1.3.0 is out and the official release is coming soon, albeit a bit late.
Personally I haven't had problems with my handed down Replicator 2x, aside from some problems as a result of shoddy filament, but that being said, there are definitely cheaper, better options (currently researching a new printer myself).
A couple things to look out for is whether you want PLA / ABS material (depending on your application), if you require ABS material, look for a heated bed in your printer, if you expect PLA to be a primary material, a dedicated fan for cooling PLA after it exits the nozzle.
The Lulzbot options and Ultimaker are both good options from for your target price range and requirements. Many people on the reddit seem to have Prusa's or Printrbots. Most of these have software that comes with the machine or accept open source software such as slic3r
I just wish it were a bit simpler, like in Slic3r. If I just want to have one parameter different but want to adjust some other parameter for all I have to adjust them process by process. Also, changes in layer height are a bit complicated. It doesn't seem to account for it and you have to add a Z-offset.
Slic3r also has modifier objects.
I got it through Repetier Host, funnily enough. When I say "vanilla", that's not a specific version, it's just the basic non-Prusa-Edition version. I have both PE and regular versions installed inside my Repetier folder, but the basic one can be downloaded here: http://slic3r.org/download
Anyway now that I'm running an Octopi server, I don't use Repetier Host anymore. It was having some issues in not obeying some of the temperature settings from Slic3r, then it dawned on me that I was literally only using Repetier Host as a wrapper around Slic3r, so I cut out the middle-man and haven't looked back since.
The only one I know that allows such things is Slic3r (is an expert feature there). Check for variable layer height or dynamic layer height. (Also, in the Slic3r Prusa edition)
Wish that this feature would become mainstream. Seems to be considered for future Cura editions as well.
simplify3d isn't cheap ($150US) and includes some ridiculously draconian DRM which can cause issues in some cases and as far as I can tell it's limited to layers (and separate objects).
You can use multiple processes to change stuff based only on height. Say you have a model of a person laying down, you couldn't make their head solid while their feet were hollow because it's all on the same plane.
Slic3r is free and the modifier meshes are meshes you import and can be used to modify any part of the model no matter the plane http://slic3r.org/blog/modifier-meshes but support material can be impossible to remove.
Slic3r supports placeholders in the layer change g-code section, but not conditionals, so you can't do something like
if z-height > 30mm then set temperature to 225
which is unfortunate, because it would be extremely useful.
However, Slic3r does support modifiers, which is a very powerful feature which will allow you to do exactly what you're after. There's a write up on how to use it here: http://slic3r.org/blog/modifier-meshes
I believe it's fairly standardized, but frankly you don't need to know any g-code in order to be able to operate one. The toolpaths and g-code are generated automatically by programs like slic3r. Mostly you just give it the CAD model and the settings you want, and it does its thing.
Slic3r> Layers And Perimeters> Spiral Vase Mode (check box)
Be sure to read the prompt that pops up, and ensure you have the latest stable release of slic3r.
I you get errors, read them, it's likely that means you need to change perimeters to 1 or something dumb like that.
If you're in to coding, I'd suggest looking at OpenSCAD. OpenSCAD can only export STL files, so you'll need something like Slic3r to make it into G-code.
Ahwell, you should definitely look into using another slicer then. There are many open-source options available like slic3r or Cura.
Seeing as how you use MakerWare, you probably need to convert the generate gcodes to x3g format. The following is from an old post of mine:
>There's a tool available that will let you convert gcode to x3g format.
For ease of use, if you're on Windows, just create a .bat file that contains "C:/path/to/gpx/gpx.exe" -m r1d %1, then you could simply drag and drop your .gcode file to the .bat file and it'll automatically create the .x3g for you!
"C:/path/to/gpx/gpx.exe" -m r1d %1
I don't know what your machine is though, so replace r1d with whatever machine you have from here:
>c3 = Cupcake Gen3 XYZ, Mk5/6 + Gen4 Extruder
c4 = Cupcake Gen4 XYZ, Mk5/6 + Gen4 Extruder
cp4 = Cupcake Pololu XYZ, Mk5/6 + Gen4 Extruder
cpp = Cupcake Pololu XYZ, Mk5/6 + Pololu Extruder
t6 = TOM Mk6 - single extruder
t7 = TOM Mk7 - single extruder
t7d = TOM Mk7 - dual extruder
r1 = Replicator 1 - single extruder
r1d = Replicator 1 - dual extruder
r2 = Replicator 2 (default config)
r2h = Replicator 2 with HBP
r2x = Replicator 2X
The UI software is free and open source and is called 3dSlicer not to be confused with Slic3r which goes in the opposite direction. My code interfaces with 3dSlicer through the OpenIGTLink interface, just like the MRI itself. The 3dSlicer plug-in also calls out to an image processing stack and sends centroid data to our path planning module.
The stock software is garbage and you'll never get really good prints since you can't increase the bed temperature to get prints to stick or change any of the advanced slicing settings such as number of shells, etc. Use the Slic3r work around to improve the print quality. Here is the Slic3r config file.
You will also need Slic3r.
go to here: http://www.dota2.com/workshop/requirements
then download the models of the hero of your choice
(if using blender you will need SMD tools which can be downloaded here: https://developer.valvesoftware.com/wiki/Blender_Source_Tools )
then you will need a slicing program of some sort like Slic3r to create the g-code http://slic3r.org/
then just put the gcode onto your printer and away you go
(most models will need some sort of structure material becuase there will be alot of bridges)
hope this helps
In terms of software, you get the 3d file which can be .stl or .obj usually, and then you use a software called a slicer, which basically turns the mesh into instructions for the 3d printer, saved as a .gcode file. Most slicers are open-source, such as Slic3r or Cura. Out of them I would recommend cura but even though it has ultimaker all over it, it works fine for any normal fdm printer.
3D printing paths for DCS mechanical keycaps generated by Slic3r and visualised with some layers missing from the top. I was playing around in the program when I noticed just how A E S T H E T I C the whole thing was, and I had to share.
Key models generated using the KeyV2 library for OpenSCAD.
I've been using S3D for ages on an FFCX w/many mods. I like it, its reliable, works fine.
That said, I've lately been playing with the 1.3.x drops of the new slic3r and it's pretty impressive. Biggest downside is that it won't come with default profiles, starting/ending code, etc. so expect to do some homework to get it up and running. I never did much with FlashPrint but if you can at least reuse the start/end gcode (if you're happy with it) that will help.
Some hints that can help get you up and running over here (not my site; I did use some of his ideas).
Slic3r can do a modifier mesh with different settings.
Cut the part like you're going to print it dual extrusion and just have a different process for the two models. Set it to use one extruder.
I would try a different slicer and see if you are getting the same results.
Perhaps Slic3r may be better suited to your needs (http://slic3r.org/)
It looks like you aren't cooling the print enough. Set the fan to 100%, and slow it down if this is a small print. Likely there isn't enough time between layers and its getting all melty.
Slic3r and Repetier both have issue trackers and forums, you may want to submit a bug report. Having a known configuration which crashes can be extremely useful for software developers since finding bugs is hard. I would say first go through their processes for asking on the forums for each piece of software to make sure you aren't configuring something wrong and then document all your settings well and upload the stl file for the bug report.
Because no one pointed you in the best direction:
This is the Slicer I use: http://www.mattercontrol.com/
A lot of people use: http://slic3r.org/
Both are free.
for the matter control one. Add the STL file. Then click export and save it on your SDcard.
There is a vase setting.
Look at the bottom:
"1) you can also benefit from the Spiral Vase setting which will raise Z continuously avoiding a layer-change point which would cause a visible seam. This setting works with any number of bottom solid layers."
Which guides have you found? There's the one on Git, and the one on the slic3r download page. I've used the one on the slic3r download page, so it does work if you follow it. That said, there's a gap fill bug, and possibly others that I believe is present in slicer after versions 1.2.7, so I wouldn't recommend doing it. You may find your thin walled objects suddenly overextruding like no tomorrow.
In addition, I wouldn't do it on a raspberry pi. It might work for simple basic models, but throw something mildly complicated at it and the GUI is going to eat up all the RAM.
Well, I may have misunderstood what you were asking for.
Marlin is the firmware that runs on the printer itself. Yes, it is open source, and I like, it, although I don't have a lot of experience with anything else.
If you are looking for the design and slicing software to create your designs and prepare them for use, there are some other packages that might be better answers. For example, Slic3r is a pretty good program. Another option that I have used is Kisslicer, but I'm pretty certain it is not open source.
I'd have to RTFM in a lot more depth, but near as I can find with simplify3d you control based on layer heights. That's easier than slic3r's approach, but much more limited.
I haven't ever tried it, but Slic3r's "modifier meshes" (http://slic3r.org/blog/modifier-meshes) might make it somewhat practical, though it would still be a largely manual process. Use the mesh to bump up the infill dramatically in part of the model, then with low enough infill everywhere else, you should be able to shift the center of mass pretty effectively.
I'm pretty sure the Export > STL menu option does the same thing as STLOUT, it just tries to UNION all of the parts you've selected first and then it opens a web page full of affiliates that will print your STL file after it's exported (or that's what it does in 2012 at least.)
Those error messages basically mean that it can't make sense of the geometry because there's some gap somewhere that's preventing it from being a watertight mesh. When you import meshes like that, there are always tiny little imperfections and gaps and stuff that make it such a pain to export.
If it worked on one part at a time with the STLOUT command but not when you select all the solids and do the Export > STL option, I would say that it's failing to UNION your solids, and you should try to UNION the solids one by one until you find the ones that are causing the Inconsistent Face-Body Relationship errors. The places where those problem-solids intersect are where you're having mesh issues, and if you can find a way to make them UNION properly then you'll be able to export them as a single STL file. That usually requires making the meshes overlap with each other completely so that there are no tiny gaps between the parts that you're trying to join together.
There are lots of different programs that will let you work with an STL file, but one example is an open source program called slic3r that will let you import the STL and then look at it layer by layer to make sure it's going to print the way you want it to. There are a ton of options though. Netfabb is good, Autodesk has a free app called Meshmixer that will let you import an STL and look at it, lots of others just a Google away.
Slic3r is free. You can use it in conjunction with repetier host if you want more control of the placement of the object on the build platform.
My suspicion is that your extrusion is set too high/out of calibration based on how your filament tracks look overstuffed. Either your extruder steps per mm in firmware is too high.
Or your filament diameter settings in cura might be off. (Best to measure the diameter of your actual filament since that number may vary). You can also instead do a single walled print, measure the thickness of that wall vs the expected thickness and then adjust the flow percentage accordingly.
Please do! But its not just one print per material. I've noticed different strengths at different extrusion temps, and that's without even getting into acetone finishes. How does different infill patterns/densities compare? (slic3r has a really neat 3d honeycomb infill) For a given task, what has the best strength to weight ratio? And how does number of shells effect the properties of a print?
Whatever you choose, good luck!
Just skip that and use Slic3r 1.2.6
Yeah, CURA has tons of bugs. I have one weird one where a support stops printing halfway up.
On the flip side, Slic3r has bugs too... I've also tried CraftWare. CraftWare is a poor man's version of Simplify3D. It can do custom supports.
Yeah I had a really hard time getting good layers on any prints for a while. I don't remember all the settings I tweaked but increasing infill and decreasing layer height were definitely part of it. By the end of the day I was getting prints that were a lot more solid, like this one.
I haven't got any PLA to try. I rotated part of the model and I've added a modifier mesh to turn up the infill and solid layer count extra high just around the screw hole.
I don't know how to use the command line mode properly either.
The rotation about other axes is only in Slic3r 1.2.0 and above. See http://slic3r.org/releases/1.2.0, under the "New features" section.
Thank you for the help. I don't think any parts will be exposed to head aside from friction in the moving parts such as gears. I will go with PLA then.
The tubes do not need to be airtight. Actually I was thinking it would be easier to print them in halves and connect them together.
By slicer program you mean something like this? http://slic3r.org/
I generally use Slic3r but Cura and KISSlicer are also popular options. KISSlicer gives you manual control of the extrusion width which might help compensate if your nozzle diameter is different from your layer height (although you could also effectively control it in Slic3r by adjusting the extrusion multiplier). It's still easiest if the nozzle diameter matches the layer height as /u/zeehero explained.
I was sent a PM from someone else about more info regarding slic3r, here is what I wrote. (Useful info):
The slicers provided by makerbot are designed to be easy to use, but for ease of use a ton of options are removed. These options allow for you to optimize the prints so that they can print faster with less failures.
If you dont already know this is the process that goes into printing:
The object is created in a program or it is downloaded online. This provides an .stl . The stl is just a water tight model made of triangles with no other information provided. This means that the scale is not included, just units. This is why an object may seem really small or large when you open it.
The object is opened in a slicer. RepG , makerware , and Slic3r are examples of slicers. The program "slices" the object into individual layers and produces Gcode. Basically, this code tells the printer "move up 10mm etc."
This is now sent to the printer via another program. This program will talk to the printer directly via a USB port or indirectly via a SD card (SD card must be under 2GB). This takes the gcode "up 10mm" and converts it to "turn Y axis stepper 810 steps". If you do high precision work you will need to calibrate the "steps per mm".
RepG and makerware have this build in. RepG can take Gcode from another slicer (such as slic3r) and then send those commands to the printer.
The link to slic3r is here: http://slic3r.org/
64bit windows: http://dl.slic3r.org/win/slic3r-mswin-x64-0-9-10b.zip
32bit windows: http://dl.slic3r.org/win/slic3r-mswin-x86-0-9-10b.zip
make sure to go to File > Preferences > and select Expert
Note that you can only rotate 2 dimensionally in slic3r. If you need to rotate another way you can open the object is makerware, rotate it in there, save as an .stl and then open it in slic3r.
I agree with you the software that comes with or is used with most 3d printers is garbage, but with stuff like Repetier and Slic3r gaining support for more printers, it's getting a LOT better.
Yes, any software that can export STL files can be used. A lot of people use sketchup, you might need a plugin but it's quite simple to add.
The slicing software also reads AMF and OBJ.