What are
/r/3dprinter's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/3dprinter:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/3dprinter:
Cults.
Thingiverse
Autodesk Tinkercad
HackADay
OctoPrint
FreeCAD
MeshLab
BricsCAD
Youmagine
Mashable
GearBest
PrusaSlicer
Slic3r
MatterControl
Onshape
The most popular reviews in /r/3dprinter:
If you can clamp down your part, then the combination of cell phone disassembly tools, a flush cut pliers, a razor, and/or something like this really helps a lot.
The easiest thing is probably just buying a dual extruder and using dissolvable support. You get better surface finishes this any as well.
I went the food dehydrator route. Under $50, fits 2 rolls of filament at a time. Wide range of temperature choices. Good reviews specifically as a filament drying device.
I've printed two of the ukuleles on thingiverse.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:268090
They work very well, I used PLA and epoxied the neck to the body. This design is not perfect but it would be a good starting point for you.
Absolutely! You can find some free files online. I find the best ones are typically not free, but they are usually inexpensive (about $5). I found this one creator on Cults3d, and I actually bought his Skeletor file and made a 12” figure to add to my MotU collection. Check out his files at the following link. He has lots of Star Wars files, too.
You can do this with Octoprint and a Raspberry Pi. Gives you a lovely web interface and you can connect a camera and get good time lapse photos of your print in progress. I wouldn't go any other way. Easiest way is to download the full Octopi image. Install it to an SD card and you're off to the races.
For the Printrbot Simple Metal, I've had mine for about 3 weeks and I LOVE it. I found it a little difficult to calibrate at first but that was my noob showing. Been printing like a mad man and this printer works really well. I get pretty decent resolution. Made some small 15mm miniatures with it that look great.
Editted...forgot to include the link to Octopi: http://octoprint.org/download/
One thing I would suggest if you get this printer is to get the heated bed upgrade. Makes getting good adhesion a lot better and it is a necessary upgrade if you want to try any materials other than PLA.
You would need to upgrade either the bowden tube to Capricorn tubing or the hotend to an all-metal one to print ASA safely.
Once you have done that then yes you could
No. Like this:
Premium 3D Print Removal Tool Kit - Durable 3D Printer Tools with Sturdy Comfort Grips, Sharp and Hardened Blades for Easy Separation of Prints, Knife and Spatula Set of 2 - Enhanced Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E64S5NTGA3W128GMVMVS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here is the amazon link. You wire one side from the power supply and the other to the hotend/bed.
Use the plug from the mainboard to turn it on
I always run some cleaning filament through when going high to low. Note that I've only ever used the eSun cleaning filament but that seems to be out of stock. With the eSun, at least, the cleaning filament has a very wide extruding temperature range and a large die swell. Run some through at the old, high temperature until it comes out clean. Switch to the lower temperature filament and load at its usual temperature.
There seem to be many of the same model psu sold by different companies, so here’s the cheapest (by 1$). I don’t believe the holes line up with the original holes but the printer’s acrylic is easy to drill through. Pid tuning requires a serial connection to your printer where you can manually send gcode and monitor the output but other than that the printer does the hard work for you. Then you just plug the values into your firmware.
Pid tuning guide: https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning
I went with the glass. A small shot of hair spray, and everything sticks without fail. I love this printer. I also put these 0.5mm thermal silicone strips under the glass and it doesn't budge (no clips needed).
Glass: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can't find the link for the strips, but Amazon has 'em in big strips you cut into small squares.
> Right now i can't even afford esun
Good XD
Sometimes local brands get dedicated to quality, for the sake of staying afloat - they are always one bad batch from bankruptcy.
Sometimes not.
Anyway, make sure to dry it - despite what people say, PLA can get moist, gets brittle, harder and gets very inconsistent extrusion due to extruder having to deal with vaporizing random water molecules, that are unevenly absorbed into the plastic.
Get plastic container(like this, just a tad bit taller), drop the spool holder with the roll in it, cover the bottom with dessicant ($17 on Amazon, and it will last your lifetime, or till winter - pack it into a sock and throw in your car, you will never have to defrost windows inside), thread 2mm hole in a side of the container to pass the filament through and voila, permanently dry filament.
Esun comes wet from factory, even vacuum sealed, for some reason.
Yeah my issue is I am mixed. I am a tinkerer at heart(my big issue with the r3d is that I cannot just tinker away the issues so everything’s purely software) buut I also have health issues that make me insanely low energy often so I cannot always do the tinkering I love so much.
The ecosystem part does worry me a bit and thank you for that(I am more a pc/android guy overall due to love of adjusting settings same reason I prefer systems like pf1e over say 5e)
I may someday wind up with both depending on the circumstances of my finances but for now I am looking for a good fit is all.
I am wondering now though would this filament work in the Adventure 3D?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMRNHVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And I guess my big question is really. How much can I expect to have to adjust the flsun on a regular basis. Like will I have to auto level it every time(which with listed auto leveling I presume should be easier then the paper style leveling I currently suck at) or should I expect a lot of errors/glitches that require weeks of super precise fine tuning before it does anything compared to the adventure 3D? Like I am totally cool with and even will enjoy doing soem tweaks/adjustments but doing them nonstop/for a few weeeks to months yeeah that will likely bug me if I cannot get a result after a few weeks of tinkering.
He is referring to these. They are arguably a better solution for linear motion.
If you are using those craptastic 3 cent inserts, testing (CNC kitchen), has shown them to be weaker than no insert.
You don't need the "best" iron. You can get a temperature controlled soldering iron for around $15 on amazon with the temperature controller built into handle. Don't spend a lot on one you will be misusing. https://smile.amazon.com/Soldering-Digital-Welding-Portable-Electric/dp/B08R3515SF/
My first printer was a gift and was the JG Magic. Definitely a few things I didn't like, but had some features that even something like the Ender 3 doesn't have. I got it about a year ago and learned a lot JGMAKER Magic 3D Printer DIY Kit with Filament Run Out Detection Sensor and Resume Print Metal Base 3D Printers for Hobbist Education 220x220x250mm 110V US Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PQK64W7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_FQ96N5HZAZ0P7A61K5X6
I just recently bought an Ender 3 Pro on the $99 sale and have been happy although I miss the features I referenced above.
My next will most likely be a Prusa MK3S+, but definitely something for direct drive and maybe something like the Prusa XL with the bigger build volume.
Don't pull on the gear without support the shaft... You'll mess up the motor. A gear puller will support the shaft so no force is transferred to the motor housing. You can find them on Amazon for $15.
Aosiyp Motor Gear Puller,Professional Tool Universal Motor Pinion Gear Puller Remover Replacement for RC Motors Accessory (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087G748VW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_QM0X4N09NWBEQB8G99DC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
same exact one, its on Amazon.
the numbers on the side of the motor tell you what one it is. . .
found it!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LVZKYYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Much easier and not just round, find diffraction grating sheets, Here's a quick Amazon search result you can trim them to your bed (or print) size and just tape them down. Can be used multiple times. Painters tape or Kapton tape work well to hold them.
Yeah, this one:
AMOLEN Wood Filament Bundle,Walnut,Bamboo Wood,Red Wood,Black Wood,3D Printer Filament,PLA Filament 1.75mm,200g/Spool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R1JGHNP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_FQ6C2M5JSNDYWDY3S2Z0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For the FEP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J25JDDY/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=AN18IKOLH4FTL&psc=1
For the black resin: Did you set the parameters recommended on the label to the printer?
Did you do a test / calibration print? How did it turn out?
SLA printing:
Cons:
• Small format • Expensive in comparison to FDM • Lots of post prossesing (cleaning the resin vat, putting the print into a alcohol bath) • Releases toxic fumes (printing MUST be done in a ventilated area)
Pros:
• Extremely high detail prints •Can be much stronger that standard pla or petg FDM materials •Able to print complicated shapes with minimal support
FDM is far easier for people who are just beginning to print, and I would recommend it over SLA, especially for large prints like what you are trying to do, as for the buttons you can buy them: https://www.amazon.co.uk/20pcs-Button-Self-Reset-Switch-Square/dp/B07RXSMGQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=LJG8T7A7GUS6&keywords=LED+Push+Button+Switches+square&qid=1641986991&sprefix=led+push+button+switches+square%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-3#
We are Creality's largest distributor on Amazon and the following is from the official reply:
Creality has now found the problem and has switched suppliers, so the switch is now guaranteed to be stable, thanks for the heads up.
There is a chance that the red wire of the power switch may be smoking due to a quality problem with the switch, so we have switched vendors and reissued an improved power switch to resolve the issue.
The issue of the motherboard smoking, which has a probability of occurring of approximately 0.15%, (this is based on data obtained from user feedback from the crowdfunding platform), is caused by the motherboard process, a specific cause has been identified and improvements are being made to ensure this issue is zero in future new product shipments.
It is safe to store it in an open and well-ventilated environment and does not pose a fire hazard.
This problem usually occurs at the beginning of use, and if the initial printing is fine, it is proof that the machine is working as it should.
​
​
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Check these out if you're interested in using threaded inserts
http://formlabs.com/stories/adding-screw-threads-3d-printed-parts/
http://hackaday.com/2015/08/31/custom-threaded-inserts-for-3d-printing/
You need a scraper without sharp edges:
Premium 3D Print Removal Tool Kit - Durable 3D Printer Tools with Sturdy Comfort Grips, Sharp and Hardened Blades for Easy Separation of Prints, Knife and Spatula Set of 2 - Enhanced Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLTY8B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7RMPPJBC0GBX39YNCW0E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Star brite Liquid Electrical Tape - 4 fl oz Can with Applicator Brush Cap - Protective, Airtight, Waterproof, Flexible, Dielectric Coating - Indoor & Outdoor Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXNOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BDD650YT7PGH92BAXZVV
Look at this website,
http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=tie+interceptor&sa=
http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:2?q=star+wars&sa=
A search for TIE defender came up with nothing so I linked a search for "star wars" and "tie interceptor"
I decided against the dual extruder, figured I can add it on later.
I went with this one and found an a8 group on Facebook if I need help troubleshooting.
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html
Still waiting for it to arrive.
Thanks for the info.
Oh this wasnt an exact product recommendation haha, just look for one that has good reviews, this one looks good to me
Just in case someone like me want to buy:
ELEGOO SATURN:https://www.amazon.fr/ELEGOO-Imprimante-Monochrome-dimpression-192x120x200mm/dp/B097Y28L8P/
Resin:https://www.amazon.fr/ELEGOO-Imprimante-Standard-Durcissement-Impression/dp/B0963SH1NK/
Well, I may have misunderstood what you were asking for.
Marlin is the firmware that runs on the printer itself. Yes, it is open source, and I like, it, although I don't have a lot of experience with anything else.
If you are looking for the design and slicing software to create your designs and prepare them for use, there are some other packages that might be better answers. For example, Slic3r is a pretty good program. Another option that I have used is Kisslicer, but I'm pretty certain it is not open source.
BricsCAD BIM should but it's expensive (especially for shits and grins).
BricsCAD Shape might import it and it's free. Or, draw it up again in Shape. That shouldn't take too long if you have dimensioned drawings/PDFs to reference.
Do you happen to have an iPhone with FaceID? If so, you can use apps like Capture to use the front camera to make an actual 3D-scan. You’ll have to learn how to make a 3D model from the resulting ‘point cloud’ (with Meshlab for example), but the results can be very accurate. I used it to make a bust-statue of my girlfriend with very decent results.
Another option would be to take a lot of pictures from varying angles, and use /r/photogrammetry to combine them into a 3D model. Might be a bit more work, but in your situation it might be easier to achieve. Good luck!
tinkercad is a great way to start out to it's a website so no app to install. Fusion 360 is amazing and freecad works good if your a Linux person. But both those do not work in a way that will lend themselves to a quick start. They don't work in a way that you would find intuitive, once you learn it though it's quite powerful.. They are extraordinary powerful and worth every second of the time it takes to learn them. but you will have to put in quite a bit of YouTube college before you're confident with them. Tinkercad works by adding and subtracting shapes from themselves so it's very natural to use and you can get started and no time. I do recommend fusion 360 or freecad. But tinkercad is where I started and it's a good place to get your fingers wet.
90% of the time tinkercad because I'm only doing some basic shit and it's easy and free. but I own a full paid subscription to fusion 360 and use it when I have time to spend on making something perfect
Get something like this: STREBITO Screwdriver Sets 142-Piece Electronics Precision Screwdriver with 120 Bits Magnetic Repair Tool Kit for iPhone, MacBook, Computer, Laptop, PC, Tablet, PS4, Xbox, Nintendo, Game Console https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SGM6F79/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_4WJYFWVHAQY4ABXFD54K
Then if you use it enough to break certain tools in it, buy ifixit brand tools to replace the frequently used parts bc they have lifetime warranty.
I use BedWeld (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079984GV5/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and the adhesion is phenomenal.
(Also I tend to run my bed over 60 for pla, but do what works for you)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016TTAAGO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I've used the 25 foot one of these due to me printing ABS and wanting my printer outside on my deck and it connects to my PC inside.... due to a SD card format issue I print like this. No problems after about 100 hours of print time so far..... I'm using a MakerBot replicator 2X and and old HP running MakerBot software fwiw
I had the same issue you do. I practically rebuilt the entire printer over this and it turned out to be the aviation plug in the back of the box. It’s the end connection from the head bed cable that connects to the box. At least that’s what it was for me and many others.
Aviation Plug Connector 10 Pairs... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7SHKGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
No there i not, but it's really easy to add. https://www.amazon.ca/Creality-BLTouch-Leveling-Compatibility-Mainboard/dp/B08Y6BKK34/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=creality+bed+leveling&qid=1629167751&sprefix=Creality+bed+&sr=8-6
This kit gets you a genuine bl touch and not a clone, that's why it's bit more expensive but worth it in my opinion.
Thanks. Can't find prusa on amazon but it was my first choice before buying the unit i have now. Finding lots of listings with the creality ender 3 v2 name.
I've gone through over a dozen 0.2mm nozzles, they clog pretty easily. You can try unblocking it with an acupuncture needle, those are thin enough to go into even a 0.2 nozzle. That works for me maybe half of the time, the other half I end up changing the nozzle.
I got fifteen 0.2mm nozzles and a pack of acupuncture needs for £7 on UK Amazon, not sure where you're located but they should be similarly cheap.
If you don't have another nozzle, something you can try is, remove the nozzle and tube from the hot end, and check it hasn't leaked any plastic. Leaks like that can cause it to jam even when the nozzle is clear (I've definitely wasted a couple of nozzles by changing them when I thought they were blocked, but the issue was actually leaked PLA gumming things up).
Is it printing at all? If not, and if there's not a leak inside the hotend, I would say the nozzle is probably blocked. But, if it's managing to do some of the print and then failing partway through then the nozzle can't be totally blocked, so it might be one of the other issues mentioned - could be nozzle too cold (but again the print would have issues throughout if that were the case) or the extruder spring is too tight.
Personally, I had my spring too tight and was grinding the filament quite badly, lots of dust/powder being ground off of it, but the only time it actually snapped through the filament was when the hot end was blocked/jammed.
> Geeetech Acrylic Prusa I3 Pro B Unassembled 3D printer
This is an FDM printer the one your bidding on is SLA FYI
If you're going to go FDM just go for the Neptune 2 you'll have a better time
Like these? Upgraded 4PCS Creality Aluminum Hand Twist Leveling Nut with 4PCS Hot Bed Die Springs for Ender 3/3 Pro/3 V2, Ender 5/5 Plus/Pro, CR-10, CR10S/10S Pro, CR 20 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PC59BP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JP7T9WQ099KY2GN0R3WQ
I just got a Longer LK5 Pro from Amazon.
A pic of the joints might help us help you. I have printed a lot of cable-chain and coolant hose with varying degrees of stiction. It is all in the design, I made a modified version of those.
You could also do a search for "stiction fluids" for your current design.
This is amazing insight, thank you so much for taking the time to write it out. No one else was able to actually offer a possible cause for the malfunction. Is this the v6 you were talking about? I'm ok with CAD, I havent used it much but that sounds doable.
Ah, that has a bed that's only supported on one side, which means it'll have some droop on the unsupported side, so solid spacers aren't a good idea there. Get some of the hefty yellow springs like these, or some of the silicone springs. The ABL shouldn't be used to compensate for more than maybe half a millimeter of offset/warp.
If you do get the yellow springs, make sure to get the ones that are made from flattened wire, like in the link above, not round wire like the stock ones.
Ah ok. Thanks for the reply.
Follow up question. Is something designed for this exact purpose going to work better than the nail polish thing? I found these that look pretty cool - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B085TD2LG8
but it's nudging the price up towards what I can get one of these for - https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGOO-Mercury-Machine-Turntable-Printed/dp/B0863T835Y which looks considerably better.
Seems like a rabbit warren of extra stuff I want. Get a 3D printer they said, you can get into the hobby cheaply now they said ;-)
£100 worth of resin, alcohol, gloves later.... lol
I bought this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SQ5F27W/ - seems to have all the sizes I have needed for my Ender 5 so far. Still need some longer ones for projects that I want to print but this has been a good starting point for me. I wish it had 200 of each without the washers :)
Adding to this - get a cheap infrared thermometer. No more guessing about bed temp, or hot end, for that matter. Read the instructions to make sure you are using the proper distance from surface when testing.
Buy
Taulmans Nylon 230 from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTK1JAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SuyWFbVGMD9TM
It can be printed with a stock printer at only 230°C
It also prints beautifully.
You'll need gluestick, or liquid white Elmer's glue watered down with 90% glue, 10% water, on your bed in order for it to stick.
Heat the bed up and let it dry first.
You might need to lower your bed a smidgen to account for the thickness of the glue.
Also this stuff absorbs water in a matter of hours. It needs to be stored in a airtight dry box with silica gel beads. Otherwise it absorbs water. And when the water hits the nozzle it turns to steam and makes the nylon bubble.
You can buy silica gel bead packs on Amazon, then put a couple in a gallon, or 1.5 gallon freezer ziplock bag. If you don't have a dedicated dry box.
I think you can buy 50 packs for $15.
Or if you do have an airtight storage bin. Buy "bulk silica gel beads". Get the ones that change color when they are full of absorbing water. You can cook them in the oven to re use them. I got these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QRRHJV3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_BoAWFb8TF4YD1
Guessing that is part of a push to connect fitting. Many variations in the size of tubing they accept and the threading they use, so some measurements may be in order.
This is one example, although not necessarily the right size for your application.
It appears to use the same hotend as the ender 3, which is really quite common. You could either grab just the bare metal bits, or the whole kit like this
Its hand powered but its cheaper that 3 kg of PLA. You do need fresh pellets to mix in for decent filament to run. Theres some chemical that depleted in the printing process I believe, and PLA gets brittle the more times you recycle it.
I was seeing some 32 bit boards on Amazon for like $20: KINGPRINT New Smoothieware Controller Board SKR V1.1 32bit Controller Panel Board for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LG1BKCB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cNnLCb3DMMJ6J
Looking through the wiring last night in a little more detail, the wiring is really damn simple, would just need to do some wire to pin matching with some new plugs most likely.
The more intimidating part for me would be messing with the firmware code if necessary.
Anycubic I3 Mega is a bit cheaper than that.. Its one of the ones I use. <$300 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Mega-S-Extruder-Suspended-Filament/dp/B07J9QGP7S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=anycubic+mega&qid=1568823814&sr=8-3
Formfutura is a Dutch company : https://www.formfutura.com/ I use their easyfil PLA and reform rPLA. The latter being recycled.
On Amazon 🇮🇹 https://www.amazon.it/Forma-Futura-EasyFil-Printer-Filament/dp/B00RTFMCMS?th=1&psc=1
Do take into account that the easyfil PLA is per 750g and not 1kg
If you have done the Ender then the Sunlu should be no problem. I am not familiar with the SKR but assume it only has one Z-driver socket. The Sunlu just parallels the single Z-driver (as do most boards) and you can get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Aokin-Printer-Accessories-Parallel-Stepping/dp/B07TCYGTXT
As to a poor performing S8, I am surprised I am super impressed with my S8. What issues are you having?
I have had no joy with their Tech support and they are pretty hopeless. They sent me a .jpg image of email adddresses to contact but so far (9-days) still nothing from them. But after adjusting everything up, it is a great printer.
IMHO, mechanically it is much better designed than the CR10, so hang in there, it can be made good.
This looks a lot like my printer. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KCYKNZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The top display is missing in your photos, so it is likely a clone/earlier model. Everything else checks out.
Sounds like either your slicer settings, or your extruder gear isn't gripping the filament well enough -- it's a VERY common problem with the Enders.
I fixed that problem by removing the crappy plastic extruder (it's 99% the spring's fault) and replacing it with this all-metal extruder assembly:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B96QMN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Not an affiliated link or anything like that, FYI)
I think this video might have some instructions:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6eDBkc1mDg
Thanks, but that may well be beyond my pay grade. :) I was looking for more of a finished option. Well, other than wiring up the series thing. Something like this and parallel up the Z to the X, Y and Z on that board. e.g. https://www.amazon.com/OctagonStar-Expansion-Arduino-Engraver-Printer/dp/B01IBTB9GK/
It did occur to me later that the series option, while fewer Amps would also be lower power per motor. Splitting that by 3 may not be any better than the current system as I would probably have to ramp up the Ref-Voltage to the point where it is with the belts really tight.
I think I can live with the random start/stop positions thing as I would assume it would be less than the 0.3 I am getting right now.
Assuming it’s an ender three, save yourself the hassle and buy a new hot end. Same thing happened to me a while back and I spent way too much time trying to fix it when I ended up just buying a new hot end anyways. If it’s not an ender three just look for a new compatible hot end, should be under $30. Here is one for the E3 Sovol Creality Upgrade Parts Assembled Extruder Hotend with Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing with Silicone Cover×3 and 0.4mm Nozzle×3 for Creality Ender 3 Ender 3 pro 3D Printer, Not for Ender 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XM637F5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vB-eFbQNY8E5K
When installing, make sure the Bowden tube is perfectly flat on the end inserted into the nozzle. The link attached has the Bowden tube already installed, and for me it was perfect, so you may not need to mess with it.
Tomb Of 3D printed horrors has a reinstallation guide, but it’s pretty simple. Basically you unscrew the old heat sink and switch the wiring. Takes a few minutes but is pretty straightforward.
I'm not enthused about those crimps. The screw-washer-nut technique is also a cheap-ass way of securing the terminals to the board. If those aren't torqued properly then the machine screws could work loose a little over repeated thermal cycles. A loose connection is a hot connection.
Changing to a 24V power supply or an AC bed with an SCR control are reasonable medium term solutions. Also if they're using the right size crimp terminals for the wire and if the color coding is correct then the wires are AWG 16 or 14, which should be adequate but heaver wire is always nice.
Assuming that you don't have a ratcheting crimper with the right die set for those insulated ring terminals (guide and pictures here) then it may be time to get one (they're not that expensive). Do some practice crimps first. For final assembly, clean those pads and tighten the connections well.
Edit: tpyo $%$#
You might want to ask on /r/ender5, but I believe if your friend is looking to consistently print flexible materials like TPU or abrasive materials like wood, your friend would want to convert from the Ender 5's bowden tube design (where the extruder is far from the hotend nozzle) to a direct drive design (where the extruder is on top of the hotend nozzle).
Here's a direct drive conversion kit on Amazon that seems to get pretty good reviews
Don't worry. You really don't "need" it. For the most part brass nozzles work just fine. The ant stick ones are really only going to helping PETG and softer TPU's.
Did you get a set that has multiple different diameters? In got a set that has
2x 0.2mm
2x 0.3mm
2x 0.5mm
2x 0.6mm
2x 0.8mm
2x 1.0mm
12x 0.4mm
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5KJB59/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_.EE0EbRCD3P73
For $9
They work really well in my ender 3 pro. Double check if they fit yours if you decide to buy them.
They're also exists Ruby nozzles. If you buy this one from the actual website instead of Amazon it comes with a special torque wrench that will not let you over tighten it. It also has a lifetime guarantee. If it wears out at all they will send you a brand new one when you send the worn out one back. It's really only worth it if you plan to spend hundreds of hours printing corrosive filaments like nylon with glass, nylon with carbon fiber, or glow in the dark. Glow in the dark filament is actually by far the most corrosive one out there. The dust that makes it glow is incredibly hard. The filament is like sand paper to a nozzle.
Creality sells a dual gear extruder kit on Amazon.
I have two Ender-3 Pro printers, both of them with the dual gear extruder from Creality 3D.
Once installed and eSteps/mm were dialed in, I haven't had a problem since.
LINK:
TFT, is a Touchscreen like this https://www.amazon.com/BZ-3D-Display-Controller-Support/dp/B07WGPBHLJ/
The TFT has it's own 32-bit CPU and SD+USB slots. It loads the GCode from the card/USB and does the complex Delta move processing calculations then sends the step/dir to the main 8-bit board. You are no longer limited by maxing out the 8-bit processing power.
BUT, I cannot remember if it can plug into the Tri-G board as I am running a Gen-L with a specific socket for TFT. The Tri-G board's UART-3 might drive it (Vcc, Tx, Rx, Gnd) though, it's been a long time since I swapped in the Gen-L.
Klipper is some brilliant software that is essentially similar to the TFT method. Do some research on Klipper + Keven O'Connor (or OConnor)
I'm guessing that the wiring diagrams you're finding are for a double pole, double throw (dpdt) switch (or similar). It appears what you have is actually a lighted switch that's single pole, single throw...I wouldn't use it in this application.
You can get a new one on amazon for <$10 or you can get another pop-in plug at your local hardware store. Since you're dealing with mains, you should leave nothing to chance, though. I suggest going out and buying a new switch which has a wiring diagram on it. For safety's sake, get a dpdt.
Im more asking for the model design and print it myself. Though I dont know enough about 3d printing yet to know if its even possible with my Creality Ender 3. Im looking for someone to be able to design something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DVWY922/ that works for the Google Pixel 3
Not higher resolution, the nozzle it comes with is brass, it wears out easy from abrasive filement (I recently learned glow in the dark meets this catagory). Honestly if your printing standard pla (which you should) the standard nozzle will be fine for a long while.
But I also second the maker select. It's sturdy as all hell and has lots of community support, tons of replacement parts available and is very user friendly /forgiving.
Overall you will likely need to replace the bearings before anything else, the only other mod that I would consider really important would be an aluminum y axis cradle. Really helps with stability. [Gulfcoast Robotics] Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Maker Select and Wanhao Duplicatior i3 3D Printers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B251KBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OqRjCb1K9ET2P
It's a really good beginner printer but also a great advanced printer once you get deeper into it.
That's not a portfolio, That's a picture of a creepy house.
https://www.amazon.com/Wundermax-Portfolio-Organizer-Professional-Interview/dp/B07883HF9M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1544546756&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=portfoloio&psc=1 this is a portfolio. It even has a zipper.
I also recommend getting a hot end heater block. I could not get the screw out of mine when i replaced my heating element.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4J5MRB/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_ZyakCbNYE21QE
Let me know if you have issues. Ive ripped my MSv3 apart so many times!
The one I want to buy is GEEETECH A20M 3D Printer with Mix-Color Printing, Integrated Building Base & Dual extruder Design, Filament Detector and Break-resuming Function, 255×255×255mm³, Prusa I3 Quick Assembly DIY kit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K1FLZ9T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FzkeCbWMJJ3YX
But first I'm going to try and build a dual extrusion machine from an A8 clone and some additional parts. Just waiting on the mailman.
Hello all,
I'm trying to solve a persistent clicking / extrusion / constant print failure problem with my Qidi X-One 2.
I own a Qidi X-One 2, and for the last few weeks I am experiencing a clicking, extrusion problem that I cannot seem to fix. The filament twists and turns coming out of nozzle.
I changed the nozzle and tube a few weeks back, and printed ok for a few prints, but now the same problems are back. I only use PLA.
I recently placed this order through Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used the cleaning filament last night, following the instructions on the package. I ran about one to two feet. I tried cold pull but the filament broke both times and did not pull all the material from the nozzle.
I ran some more cleaning filament, and then switched to my Solutech white PLA. I started to run the PLA to flush out the cleaning filament, and as this happened, clicking is back, and the filament twists and turns coming out of the nozzle.
Its like it did nothing!
I have also ordered some needles for nozzle cleaning, but these haven't arrived yet. I have also ordered some more nozzles and tubes, and will exchange for new ones when they arrive. But ultimately I would like to prevent the problem from happening in the first please.
Please let me know what else to try. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am fairly new to 3d printing.
Thank you!
It is a glass plate on aluminum. Specifically this bed Anycubic 43188-247109 Ultra Base 3D Printer Platform with Aluminum 12V/24V Dual Power MK3 Heatbed, Tempered Glass Plate, Durable Build Surface for Prusa I3 220x220mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075375HBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q31TBb1HR4FW4 and this sensor at 12V BALITENSEN LJ18A3-8-Z/BX 8mm Approach Sensor Inductive Proximity NPN No Switch DC 6-36V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SF8SJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.41TBbMVVGJGN no idea why it didn't work.
Cosplay elements, tabletop RPG models/set pieces, and maybe more. I have since learned that he wants to use PLA plastic. He is leaning toward the MakerBot Replicator+
Just got some of this in with Prime today. Testing it now with a 7 hour print... so far so good ��������
No reviews, but decently priced and made in Europe.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CDS45HZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B2RtBbHQDH62K
Look at something like this :https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB1U886?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf I used to just wreck prints trying to get it off with the stock scraper they send with the printer. It’s a thinner edge so it really seems to pop it off the bed a lot easier. I got that second one I linked a few posts back and I don’t use one of the tools but the longer one I’ll use after using the first tool on big prints outside of that this one really seems to get under prints with out to much effort.
Another solution that I have heard good results with but I not personally use is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xQdWAb79FZS82 It’s on my list to try but my current printer doesn’t really need anything to help with binding or release from the bed. Now I did pick up a bed surface called geckotek : www.geckotek.co it’s supposed to be a bed pad like on the printer already but is supposed to just release prints after the bed cools down. Might run around $20 so it’s not to bad of a loss not sure when I’ll get around to installing it but could be better than the current surface it has now.
For a camera/smart switch look into a octopi setup. It uses a raspberry pi but it acts as a print controller. From what I heard is you can start/stop prints as well as upload prints you sliced and just run it from there. But you are supposed to be able to remote view it with a camera as well. I just never got around to setting one up but I do have everything if I ever need it. I normally run my long prints on the days I know I’m home but I normally don’t have to many issues though I have failures in the middle of the night but with me being close by I can catch it before any chance of damage. I do have my printer on a ups but I think it’s on the end of its life span so I will most likely need to replace it or the batteries later this year.
What is blown?
The build plate heats perfectly fine but the nozzle never heats*
do i just need a new 12v 40w? something like this?
oh wtf. I was at work when i read this on my phone. I must have missed that. Wow. What a bitch. Who does that shit. Sorry dude. Well seal up that filament in weather tight storage containers. Sounds like you got a lot. Put Eva drys in there. And put this on social media everywhere. Thats scummy. https://www.amazon.com/Improved-Eva-dry-333-Renewable-Dehumidifier/dp/B000H0XFCS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1505178842&sr=8-7&keywords=dessicant
SO this is likely the same as the one in the link? and not the one /u/mrstuky suggested?
From my brief research https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE?sa-no-redirect=1 seems like a very good first 3D printer. But that's way under your budget. So I'm sure for your budget there are hundreds of better ones out there.
800 lumens is not enough. I know it's cheap, but you wont get anything under 300 but a headache. It's really worth getting 1080P and >2000 lumens. These are my current two favorites: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6UNGXQ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBE21DC
I've had no luck finding PTFE tube aside from the common sizes!
However, I have found press fit connectors that let you step down from a 6mm OD tube to a 4mm OD. You could likely use a couple to step between the two sizes of tubing. I don't know that this would work for your purposes, but it may be worth a try!
You can also find them on ebay for under $1 (USD) a piece.
Try searching for "4mm 6mm pneumatic push fitting."
are you looking at the right one? I think that the zeus fits perfectly into that description
Im thinking of buying a new printer, is this one any good? http://www.amazon.com/Geeetech-Transparent-Acrylic-Desktop-Sanguinololu/dp/B00P937OPW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1430734874&sr=8-5&keywords=geeetech+i3
I currently have a cheap qubd two up
Yes, the Mega has a pretty intense surface mount chip. not for the faint of heart in replacing.
As for a new printer, this is typically the "budget" printer I usually recommend and have never had any problems with: http://www.amazon.com/Printrbot-Assembled-Metal-Simple-Filament/dp/B00IYC60IM/ though it is about $200 more than the one you linked. I'm not familiar with the Geeetech at all.