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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/PrintedWarhammer:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/PrintedWarhammer:
Cults.
Autodesk Tinkercad
Youmagine
The most popular reviews in /r/PrintedWarhammer:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/r-chonkers-interstellar-jarheads
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So I've had these in the completed section of my hard drive since November, but just couldn't bring myself to post them! Well, it's 2021, and I'm catching up on my backlog!
These are a kitbash (with some booling of my own) to make a decent approximation of a heavy intercessor! The arms can be a little wonky to attach, but of the four or five I've printed, I've had no problem that couldn't be fixed with more glue, and they look pretty decent! :)
Meet Reverend Rick. He is just a wee lad but likes to dress up in the largest, toughest looking armor that he can find and run around, waving his stick and shouting at his brothers.
Even though he is smaller than a lot of his brothers, he is still a tough guy and none of them push him around.
INCLUDES PRESUPPORTS
OPR is now providing free test print models for all of our releases on Cults3D! Please make sure to like our models and follow our page to help us grow!
Get 15 free models here: https://cults3d.com/en/users/onepagerules/creations
The files come both supported and unsupported, and they're perfect for you to try our models before you buy them. Don't forget you get 50% discount on all models in our MMF store by supporting us on Patreon.
Be sure to try the "Joint tolerance test" on your printer first to make sure the tolerances work: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/joint-tolerance-test
If they don't, please message me here or on Thingiverse or Cults3d.
The builder itself is located on Cults3d: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/builder-for-both-diseased-chaotic-evil-boxy-thugs-from-hell-and-diseased-chaotic-evil-demon-king-s-son
I'm happy to take requests for any additional variant parts, such as if you want an second version of one of the weapons so you can put two on the one model without it being obviously just mirrored, or if you want something different for the central body. I can't make any promises, but I'll see how I go :) These would just be added to the existing Cults download.
Here it is on Cults3D: Download STL file Austin the "Space Vampire Executioner" • Model to 3D print ・ Cults (cults3d.com)
I purchased it last night but won't have a chance to print it until this weekend. Will be a test of my abilities to create proper supports. (though it does have a pre-supported zip file of all the STLs for him)
there is a plague marine builder on cults3d with most of the weapons as seperate files: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/parts-of-a-disgusting-resilient-marine-builder
The same designer should have a similar builder for the Terminators as well.
Printed on the Phrozen Sonic Mini with its stock aqua green on lowest layer height. Files can be found here, although the heads are from another file on thingiverse. They're very easy to find if you look. Sorry I don't have a link handy for that.
Edit: Also if anyone could be kind enough to point me to some stuff that would compliment these guys, drop me a DM.
As my project grows I add more and more units to the library, this is Avunt LORD, a proxy for the Tyranids HQ unit or whatever you want to use it as)
Link to files https://www.myminifactory.com/users/madsminis
https://cults3d.com/en/users/MadsMinis/creations
Edit: I would love to hear your feedback or wishes for the next units!
Hi guys, I modelled this spider as proxy for the Canoptek one (almost same size as the original)
On the link below you can find more pics.
I hope you like it!
The model is avaiable on cults 3d: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/cyber-tomb-spyder
Lovely first print, better than mine!
I used this video with these test pads to dial in my resin to perfect exposure at my temperature (anycubic eco @ 2.1s) on my mars 2. Each test pad only takes 10 minutes to print and a few ml of resin, so it's worth taking the time. Do a test with your current exposure, then go 0.2 seconds or so up or down depending if you're underexposed or over for the next test; repeat until you hit the perfect result. i.e. looks closest to the source file, with equal amounts of pillars/holes, a sharp infinity symbol crossover and stripes at the bottom the same size as the gaps. You can use the untimed test plate and a marker for any exposure times that don't already have a plate.
For the Mars 2, it's likely to be between 2 and 3 seconds, with your grey likely being at the lower end of that range.
If you end up reducing layer height (quite a lot of people do for minis to maximise detail), you can do the same again to get the right shorter exposure for the thinner layers.
Free download: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/damaged-space-guard-builder
Included:
1x Full Figure as displayed on the image
6 arms variation
6 backpack variation
6 heads variation
6 legs variation
6 shoulders variation
3 weapons variation
Upper arm for Imperial Knights.
Free on Cults3d.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/suturus-pattern-upper-arm-for-knights
​
Best,
JBR
Check out AtlanForge on Cults3d.com! He has some epic mounted characters and units! For a Kreig style army, these are my favorite Death Riders: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/the-expendable-brigade-no-aquila-icons
>Oh wow that’s lovely. That would make a great Fallen model, is it available somewhere?
this https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/unit-model-5-krishna
I've only used this stuff, but so far the only things that I've seen that are super brittle are things that really stick off of the model, like swords and stuff like that. This resin has worked very well for me, so I'm probably just going to stick with it.
I find that doing the same print several times in a row rarely has problems. Changing prints I find it hard to not have problems after the second change though..
As far as the filters, here's an idea of cost, and it includes the funnel which fits very nicely into a resin bottle mouth.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SJD2D9H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think its from here, the missle terminator can be separated so he's a mix of that reposted in meshmixer, a term head i got forever ago and all the rivets are just dropped meshmixed spheres https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/chonky-beef-de-terminator
something like https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/alien-sector-terrain-brexit?
Does the tau have a rapid deployment style cover official model?
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/very-hefty-dominating-warrior-combo-pack
If you used superglue, try putting your model in the freezer then break it apart. If you used plastic glue then it's not going to come apart easily.
These were fun to paint and I finally have a 10-man Terminator assault squad. Those things were really kicking my ass for the last few games.
STLs from: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/elite-heavy-assault
Thanks again to u/MrSquirrel97 for finding the files for me.
Also note, the thing seem to be Primaris scaled.
They're on the edge of too big, so maybe scaling it down to 90% might work better for First Born Terminators.
STLs from: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/elite-heavy-assault
Thanks u/MrSquirrel97 for finding the files for me.
Also note, the thing seem to be Primaris scaled.
They're on the edge of too big, so maybe scaling it down to 90% might work better for First Born Terminators.
Danny Cyanide has a version that might be of interest to you:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/udated-armorcast-style-wardog-titan
He also has some Chaos Bitz for that one:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/chaos-bits-for-updated-armorcast-wardog-titan
There's an STL I found of the Quartermaster which has a dead/dying guy next to him. Would be interested to follow this thread and see what gets posted.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/teknops-queens body was printed on mono x and legs on a Mars 2 pro. Both were done at .04 mm layer height. Dark foundry miniatures also has a Patreon and are working on this insectoid canoptek range along with 2 other armies. The designers are also super open to input and asking for peoples options on designs couldn’t recommend them more.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/primaris-bladeguards-blank
However the pauldrons for two of the models are scaled down knight shoulders, so the kit I linked only has the standard shoulder plates.
The only free model I can find on Cults is
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dancing-clowns-of-death
And that's not particularly detailed. Did I miss any other free ones?
​
The paid models are nice, but 3€ for a single pose... I dunno. There is even a Voidweaver/Starweaver, but it's 13€; can almost buy an official one for that ;-)
If you’re on an Ender 3, it’s the spring-loaded paddle part that guides the filament from the spool into the gears. I got this upgrade set
The bullet dice is nearly the same as: https://www.amazon.com/Bullet-Metal-Dice-Set-Accessories/dp/B0B1ZN5W9Y#
It is your idea or stolen?
Use a small grow tent and a small electric heater w/ temp sensor. https://www.amazon.com/heater-Programmable-Adjustable-Thermostat-Display/dp/B07DCKFJLM/ref=sr_1_6
That would work, but to be honest the fumes haven't been too bad for us. I've only tried one resin though. We just use little usb charged filters and they make a huge difference to the smell, not sure about toxicity.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGOO-Purifier-Replaceable-Activated-Printer/dp/B093BK9CFS/ (anycubic do a set as well).
Thank you kindly for your advice! It was definitely my fault i clogged my Iwata Neo, I first used citadel air - paint, but figured I didn't want to use all of it so I'd really water down some normal citadel black for the airbrush, and thats how it got clogged. It does have o rings and ruining those has always been my concern, but I'm excited to try cleaning it again and get it working!
A lot of different results came up for lacquer thinner, this Amazon one was the first, is this what I'm looking for? And is that a fair price?
The pickle jars are plastic jars you can buy that have a lift out bin. Left over jars from pickles would work but you'd need to fish the minis out and that dirty bin is gonna be Hella murky. Visibility 0. I use a couple different types but this is one of Them
The iso is way more of an immediate health hazard than the resin, check its msds sheet and compare with resin and you'll never want it vaporized around you again. Be safe with both of course but iso is no joke.
I do have to make a correction, I've used just over 2.5 gallons in 2 years which isnt too bad, I've also been using it around the house so it's hard to gauge.
This is primered with Rustoleum Flat Red primer. This 8s the resin I use for everything. For this particular model, I ran all the settings on default cause i wanted it to print fast. 2.5 seconds exposure, .05mm layer height. Light supports with a .25 diameter connection. This is the only setting I changed because the supports come off cleaner.
Some things to try - Re-level bed. Clean the bed. Adjust bed temp. Turn off cooling fan for first layer(s). Myself I have a PEI sheet which makes for really good bed adhesion. https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Preapplied-Laminated-Adhesive/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=sr\_1\_11
Use this: https://www.amazon.com/Krazy-Glue-KG92548R-Instant-0-18-Ounce/dp/B000BQSFSM/ Apply a thin layer, hold pieces together and count slowly to 10. Do let the bond harden overnight, as with any glue.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091YPLLND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Bought 4kg - went through all of it and with not a single issue.
I would not trust it because it doesn’t have a lip to keep stuff from falling off the side . Here is link to the one I bought , EIOKIT Dog Food Mat, Silicone... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095K46BQ2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Well, polarizing film is generic. It shouldn't require anything special, something along the lines of this:
That's two 8.5x11 sheets of polarizing film with an adhesive on one side like the ones on the screen. With a mars 2, you should have no problems cutting those up into 4+ films if you screw up.
The key is to follow the steps of showing the test square on the screen, and getting the correct orientation for the film before cutting and mounting it.
As long as you see a dark square and easily see the light around the edge, it's working. SLA isn't really super complicated in that sense, you just need light, and no light.
Mr. Surfacer is made to fill gaps in models, I've used it to smooth out layer lines on my FDM prints. There are a few different flavors that are thicker/thinner depending on your needs.
So here's the model that I got, although I'm sure there are cheaper models without dual fans or LEDs that are similar dimensions and a lot cheaper.
VIVOHOME Dual Fans Portable Airbrush Paint Spray Booth Kit with 3 LED Lights Turn Table and Filter Hose for Model Cake Craft Nail Toy Part Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CKSJNP3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ZJWYB079M561JY1HZSC3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My Mars 3 fits in this one perfectly though. I blow the air outside so there's zero smell. I just super the printer in my closet when it's not being used. If there's a window nearby, this setup would be good to go, and I'm sure you could hook the exhaust hose up to the vent fan in the laundry room, but that would be a lot of work I'd think. It took me a long time to pull the trigger and finally get a printer, but I did it in December and it was so worth it. Good luck!
Luckily Amazon has an Elegoo Official Mars 2 mono screen they’re a major upgrade from the original screen. I haven’t made the change yet but I’ve heard really good things. I stupidly cut through mine with a razor blade cleaning some resin off of the screen instead of using a plastic razor blade, it hasn’t affected print quality but eventually I’ll upgrade too.Mono Screen
One click for all files, at a small discount.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/project-maggie-conversion-kit-for-questing-knights-all-files
Best,
JBR
They have to be edited from the files ripped from TW.
The print is from Eman, who has done fantastic work for Skaven and Orcs & Goblins.
Thanks the base is a remix of 2 bases from this set plus a random pillar off cults 3d.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/war-gaming-base-toppers
Plane is this one:
I am fusing and checking the files right now.
The claws and chainsword will be available on my Cults3D account this weekend.
https://cults3d.com/en/users/johnbearross/creations
Thanks!
Best,
JBR
Free weapon caps for this and other Suturus Pattern weapons.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/suturus-pattern-weapon-covers
​
Best,
JBR
Honestly this was way harder than I thought it'd be but it was so worth it. I'm really pleased with the result and I will be sure to continue my journey into my next project. If you wish to download it here's the link: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/robot-droidtex
After some feedback I tweaked some details on my Drone Hounds, which I designed to use as alternatives for some other hounds serving the greater good.
I added a Fusion Emitter under their legs and added new blades.
Many people wanted another head, and while I didn't rework it completely I added an antenna and then another one and now the doggos have ears.
The files are avaiable here:
https://cults3d.com/en/ 3d-model/game/greater-good-drone-hounds
(If you don't own a printer and want some, feel free to message me)
I found some of his stuff on cults some on shapeways(not stls) and a facebook page. If he put more stuff on cults I would probably buy it.
I designed them because I wanted to have Proxies for certain other Hounds or just as a pet for my commander.
They were made in Blender and the files are available here:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/greater-good-drone-hounds
Feedback is welcome
The battlesuit is already available on the store of the author of the sculpt - https://cults3d.com/en/users/PiperMakes/creations
Everything else (pilots and APC) would be available on our store at MMF at the end of the next week: https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Crucible%20of%20Games
please keep in mind the body/legs/arms is for visual representation only , download link here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/servo-bots-servo-heads-and-more-20-models
This is my first full miniature that I modelled. Honestly it took a very long time but I enjoyed and learned a lot from it. My next project will be around Adeptus Mechanicus theme
Here is the download link if you're interested: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/the-last-prince-artiiicus
I designed these models to be printed on fdm or resin printers, as terrain for wargaming.
You can get the stl-files here:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/modular-xeno-shield-wall
If you don't own a printer, but are interested in parts for this shield wall, feel free to message me and I could print them for you.
It happens! For smaller models I recommend one of the timed curing stations so you can just plop it in and forget about it. There are relatively cheap ones on amazon. I overcured a lot of my minis when I used a DIY one because I would go to clean up my workspace and forget about them.
Here is the one I have been using. But there are several alternatives for bigger prints and some cheaper ones floating around as well.
5-Piece Sargattium: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/sagittarius-janitors
Pallas Grav Attack Tank: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/interstellar-janitor-s-shooty-shooty-go-go-pod
Save those FAST. Ill get the rest when im home.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/imperial-general for the hammer, fancy shoulders, head, possibly bits of the frame as well because that's a really good questoris model.
The legs I've seen but can't remember the name of.
I don't know why but the link disappeared :/
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/alternative-plasma-weapons-for-technologically-advanced-hive-city-gangs
I hace two standard 1st generation Photons. I never use AA because it may make details on a model less crisp. Most layers can be prevented by angling the model correctly, but sometimes they need some sanding afterwards. They're not always easy to prevent: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-printing/golden-tower-of-power-mausoleum-walker-ed_lweis
I found it using the waybackwhen machine, but I have since seen it on Cults
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/epic-scale-mars-warlord-titan
It's for sale over at cults3d , I bought a pack of STLs with that one, a Kroxigor, a star player (which I shrunk and am using as a Saurus), and two Chameleon Skinks. The big dude (which I'm making my Zoat) came in four parts, so it was easily printed in a normal Elegoo Mars.
The Kroxigor in that pack is amazing, sadly its tail is so long it's a hassle to play with - but I'm going to shrink him and use him as a Saurus.
IIRC The Reaver is included in this download- https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/mammoth-mechanical-monsters-spalla420-2
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/2-halves-of-the-big-old-general
There you go my dude. Not sure how long it will take to appear properly. I have had some jip with cults uploads before now. Happy printing my dude!
the helmet frustrated me, im in an impatient mood. So i just borrowed one from somebody else and quickly slapped together some wraps. Its not my best work. But thats why it gets the title it does. Hope they are alright for you my dude!
​
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/quick-and-dirty-desert-raider-heads
I've been printing in the 25-45f range the last month or so, and I've had some good luck with using a ceramic hatching light plugged into a thermostat controlled outlet. I turn the bulb on an hour or two before I need to print and it's normally in the 70s inside the printer at that point. It's not the perfect solution as most of the heat gets lost to the open air before it touches the printer, but it's what I can do until I can afford to put money into a large grow tent to put in my print space
Cybermonday?
Cybermonday!
So I'm offering a package of my 3 files canoptek files discounted, less than how much you will pay them on cults 3d.
DM me for info or if you want to buy only one file: https://cults3d.com/en/users/HandsomeFred
printed on anycubic photon at 0.05
siraya blu (this stuff is the real deal, i can throw this model at a brick wall and it will not break)
These are pretty nice looking Plague Marine Bits. You can do an entire marine or what I'm doing is use the leftover bits from a GW Plague Marine box and just printed out legs/torso. However, I did print out one set of legs as a test, and I think they are a bit to big compared to "real" plague-marines, so may need scaled down a bit.
The same creator also has similar sets for generic Chaos Marines, Blightlord and Deathshroud Terminators. There are also files for some DG vehicles as well if you so desire.
This is the only model that I know of, it's 6mm scale though. But to me it seems detailed enough to make it work if you scale it up appropriately
Its available over here but isnt free as it was on thingiverse: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/4th-planet-battleduke-pre-olympian-god-stroganoff
I've already posted this on r/battlefleetgothic but I meshmixed two ships in the past 2 hours and wanted to share the results/potential.
First, the prow can be downloaded here --> [Link]
The first ship is an armed merchant trader, and the second is a random ship I got off Thingiverse that can pass as a System ship. I would share, but no derivatives allowed :/
Just slap on a prow, a couple Aquila and you're good to go!
You can take a look at LoggyK's stuff: https://cults3d.com/en/users/LoggyK
He has some cool stuff as other people mentioned, and you can donate/tip him if you are in the mood to do so.
I assume it is https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/golden-tower-of-power-mausoleum-walker just using a second flipped gun arm instead of an empty hand
Then how do you explain the difference in quality?
The pelicram on cults3d has some other minis already on sale there,but those don't show neither on your website store or your portfolio while, again less refined works are present, makes no sense to me.
Worked on some DW fellas over the last few weeks. Link has the "prime assault" DW vet w/ stormbolter/stormshield combo, an aggressor, and a prime boy pointing at something in the distance haha (all are from different chapters for variety). Big thanks to those who made the original parts, I just simply adjusted, customized and put them together.
PS Don't mind the potato quality painting and pictures!
I’m sure people here or over on the 40k sub can be a little more helpful with entry suggestions. My first(and current) brush is a Badger Krome that was a gift. Just look for a compressor that has a tank so it’s not running the entire time.
If you like dkok there's these https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/28mm-trench-fighters-poses-1-5
Check out the creators profile I think there are other variations there too. Haven't printed myself I just remember thinking how great they looked!
Printed this Ancient Monster Transporter on the photon over the past week. Had to split the floor, two treads, sides, and the front plow in order to get it to fit on the build plate.
To get this to match my Feudal Guard army from Makers Cult, I pulled the Leman Russ hull lascannon and replaced parts from the Gorgon file in Tinkercad.
This is the printer I own so it's the only one I can recommend out of personal experience. But if you like to get more info I would say to ask around, plenty of people will have multiple printers and can provide feedback.
As for setting it up, resin printers are the easiest to set up! They come to you 100% built! You will have to buy some safety equipment however, nothing crazy just some gloves and paper towels, oh and isopropyl alcohol! Oh and the resin lol. The printing is simply push a button and walk away.
After each print you will NEED to clean the models with the alcohol and a brush. Should probably wipe down the printer too (I always do) this is a critical step. How you clean the model can greatly affect how it does after you print.
And the last part, getting the model files, usually really easy to do. There are plenty of websites where you can download free and paid models to print. You'll have to learn how to slice a model, but that honestly takes a few seconds and pushing 2 buttons.
Overall, resin printing is extremely easy on the front end of printing, but takes some time and care once it's done printing. The quality is unmatched!
What I used here was the tape that came with my Chitu Systems replacement screen. I will use something called silicone adhesive polyamide base heat resistant tape, or Kapton tape. Electrical tape won't stand up to the heat and you don't want resin pouring down into the guts of your machine.
[Specifically this one on Amazon.](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072ML61NW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) It fits my Anycubic Photon Mono, which has a super tiny print area, so YMMV. The PET vs Tempered glass was recommended without explanation. I think it's because the PET is slightly thinner, doesn't crack, easier to apply, and doesn't really need to provide shatter resistance. Unless you're dropping the build plate, which given my carpel tunnel might actually be possible. ಠ╭╮ಠ
Something like this, but you really shouldn't need to use it - it could just hide the problem or make it worse, like getting mixed into your resin and degrading your adhesion.
I recently had a similar problem where one part of the build plate printed fine but other parts were getting stuck to the FEP sheet. I increased my base layers/cure time and normal layer cure time slightly and re-leveled my build plate and I started getting perfect prints.
this is the resin I used. As for the setting, I used whatever is default in chitubox. I would recommend tilting the piece to try and support it better in the slicer.
The Elegoo Mars Pro 2 is $299.99 on Amazon currently. It’s a 2K screen but I haven’t had any issues with it, would recommend.
One step above that is the Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K, I think it goes for around $400 most places. I think it probably offers the best detail of any of the sub-$500 printers but I’ve heard some people say it’s a tad finicky and the build quality can be a little suspect. Again that’s just what I’ve read, I’ve never actually seen or used one in person.