Looks like a standard DuPont style crimped would work?
WayinTop Dupont Connector Crimping Tool Kit Crimper Plier 2.54mm Header Male Female Crimp Pins Terminals Housing 1 2 3 4 5 6 8 10 Pin and 40pin 1.27mm Ribbon Cable FC/IDC Jumper Wire 1M (Crimping Set)
> Or buy a couple smart bulbs and see if you can set automatic tasks to brighten the lights at a certain time.
I do this with my cheap TP-Link smart bulbs. They have configurable fade on/off options from 5 seconds to 60 minutes.
$17. definitely cheaper than DIY, especially starting from not knowing arduino.
So damn irritating. The old model had a simple dial. Same form factor. Now they don’t make them with a dial and you basically need to dig up an instruction manual to figure these things out.
OP, is there any advantage to the new one besides the fact that it led me to find the TS100 ?
It’s a USB header connector. They are for case-side USB ports. Here is an adapter with the right connector. https://www.amazon.com/Duttek-2-Pack-Female-Dupont-Motherboard/dp/B06Y5C7DKH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=usb+header+to+usb+port&qid=1624047182&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNTUwWE9HU0tBSkwmZW5jcn...
If interested, there is also a project tutorial, including code files, PCB Gerber files, and instructions:
Battery in the mason jar? https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Operated-Bedroom-Christmas-Decoration
Otherwise you have a wire either into the top of the mason jar (down the twine ruin aesthetic) or through a drilled hole in the back. Either of those options makes removal for travel complicated.
You just buy a boost converter. Every other method will be an order of magnitude more annoying then giving Amazon 6-10 bucks.
I’ve used these 35kg servos in the past. There are also 25kg available for a little less money.
If interested, you can inspect this project from here:
Adam I would try to build a small tone generator - with a led associated with each tone. Use the tactile switches as keys and a speaker for output. Be sure to use a limiting resistor on each led and the speaker so you don't fry anything;) Arduino has some great tone functions and you should have the parts. Tinkercad is a great free tool - it has a virtual breadboard with all the standard parts simulated and an Arduino emulator so you can build a circuit, write the code and test it (even has virtual instruments like a multimeter, oscilloscope and function generator). You can build some pretty sophisticated circuits with it - all free!
Wow that site is actually pretty cool, I made demonstration of what I think he is trying to do: here
I do remember a "smart" egg holder....
Used to be like $50 if I remember.
Reading the reviews, what a train wreck. "Premium subscription is REQUIRED to use this product" -- you pay $5 per month for it....
Honestly, if this kind of thing interests you, you might consider investing in a half decent soldering iron. Once you fix one thing, you might find yourself fixing other things, until one day you are considering making your own things. Pro tip: good solder and flux are more important than a good iron. A half pound spool will last you a long long time.
As for the replacement, get a USB 3 type A cable and cut the cable at the length you need, ditto the cable on your device, then splice the wires together instead of replacing the connector directly. It will likely be easier for a first time try.
You may want to buy a starter kit. Here's one I found on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/WayinTop-Electronics-Electronic-Breadboard-Resistance/dp/B07Z1BK7NG/
Buying individual components is good when you know what you're trying to accomplish, but if you're starting out, having a bunch of common components handy and instructions for assembling them was really helpful for me.
These Arduino kits on Amazon are a pretty great value
Elegoo UNO Project Super Starter Kit with Tutorial, 5V Relay, UNO R3, Power Supply Module, Servo Motor, 9V Battery with DC, Prototype Expansion Board, ect. for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8KOZF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CbCCyb4YGFY9H
There are hundreds of tutorials on the web for how to get started with the basics, but sparkfun and adafruit are really good places to look
Another cheaper option is IR based touchscreen. Basically a frame just above the screen with an array of IR leds and phototransistors or camera(s). Amazon for example has one for a 55" screen with 10 point touch for under $300. It could also be DIY.
Easiest way would be to use autohotkey (https://autohotkey.com)
create a basic script with the tutorials on their site to have a function key act as alt tab, and then just keep one note and google calendar open in seperate windows
well if its not plugged into usb or VIN, then it has over-discharge protection and cuts the OUT+ line when the battery gets to 2.9v, obviously you don't want a lipo going to 0v. its has overcharge protection when the battery is full (and usb is plugged in).
its called a TP4056, it essentially means you don't need to have a protected lipo/li-ion as its all on the tp4056 module.
but i still don't see how you expect to do this. if its plugged into usb it'll never empty the battery as it will just be topped up as its used, so it'll never cut power. its a really weird requirement you have there, what's the design?
I used template matching in this project, so it does not need any training to detect villagers. Therefore, it can run successfully during four seasons by adding templates from each season.
The price differs depending on PCB manufacturer service fees. I used PCBWay, but you can download the Gerber files here to try it with your manufacturer.
There is a free electronics class on the instructables website - https://www.instructables.com/class/Electronics-Class/
There is also an electronics simulation program in Tinkercad. It enables you to connect components together to create circuits and also connect microcontrollers and write programs for the circuits and simulate running programs etc. It's actually a lot better than my description, here's a link - https://www.tinkercad.com/circuits
Ah ok, you made it sound like you had a very specific application in your OP (your counter doesn't have a strong enough output driver).
If what you're asking is:
> Is there any way to apply a single voltage to the top of multiple strings of LEDs, and still control them individually, with no other components?
In general, no. In pure theory, maybe? If you don't count resistors, and for some level of "control". I was experimenting with falstad, trying to get it to work with some sort of resistive / diode ladder and a current source but it doesn't quite work the way you want.
Practically speaking you just get four mosfets, one for each string of LEDs, and control them individually. Analog circuits are quite a bit tougher :p
Have you tried falstad's circuit simulator? While no replacement for real calculations/functional testing, it's fun and intuitive to play around with the circuit and get you in the right ballpark with values. A 555 timer oscillator should be a pre-made circuit option in the 'circuits' menu.
It's look like a 5v 1.2a. I would recommend getting something like this.
It's a usb cable with different barrel plugs..you will also need a usb charge that can give you 15 w. 5v 3a cell phone square should work.
Edit. It's mostly a class 2 power supply. That's why it's expensive
Biomedical engineer btw
PS I'm dyslexic so I apologize for any Grammer or spelling mistakes
Looks similar to this module, right?
I bought this for that very purpose and hooked it up to a pair of 100 watt speakers, this things is amazing, I built a battery pack of 6 18650s to power it. We watched Aquaman at full volume, it was really impressive. Those old bookshelf speakers never sounded that good when being powered by amp they came with.
I like these TP5000 modules: https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Battery-Charging-Phosphate-Indicator/dp/B07GWZCSP1
Some really good info on the performance and pitfalls:
Review of Charger TP5000
Looks like this one:
YEAPOOK ADS5012h Handheld Digital Portable Oscilloscope Mini Storage Oscilloscope Kit with 100MHz Bandwidth 500MS/s Sampling Rate 2.4'' TFT LCD Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XBL4BTL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5NZ6WQX43TYF5SA16TX7
First of all props to you to introduce your son to electronics and ask to find a good method for him to learn it out of interest.
I remember having electronics kits which had a bunch of simple components connected by those metal spring terminals. They often came with booklets to go step by step through simple projects to gain some understanding.
Perhaps you could look at toy shops and see if they carry some educational electronics kits? I remember book shops also sold them though I'm not sure if they'd still.
I found this on Amazon, seems a bit different with magnets snapping together but looks like it goes step by step in explaining: https://www.amazon.com/Snap-Circuits-SC-300-Electronics-Discovery/dp/B0000683A4/. Looks a bit expensive but not sure if that's different in the US.
Oh boy I even found one of those kits with the spring terminals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00000IUD2
Best of luck!
There is a super-cheap stepper motor for very low-end projects: 28BYJ-48 You can buy a set of 5 from Amazon, with the motor-controller board that your Arduino or RaspberryPi can interface to, for $14.
An Arduino Nano is more than sufficient for this project, unless you want to get exotic for the trigger inputs, like voice-commands, Internet-controlled, etc.
I just bought a 10 pack for 8 bucks a couple months ago. You can get these most anywhere probably cheaper.
For the 500ma you're charging at what you have will be fine though. Just a passing recommendation.
Sorry to say but this isn't hard to find at all..
It pretty clearly says '16V 10uF' on it, I think a car amplifier can heat up but shouldn't reach higher than 50°C so something like this will do:
If I understand your goal correctly, you just need a relay that is normally closed.(held open when power is applied) this would be wired into a 12V circuit that is hot-in-run, or powered when the car is on, and de-powered when the car is off.
Here's an example of what I mean.
If you need the jack itself too, you can buy DIY/replacements. Here's the first one I found on amazon, which coincidentally also has a pinout color coded diagram as one of the product photos.
My understanding for the transmitter the simplest implementations can be done simply with a PWM pin of a microcontroller and an appropriately sized wire for an antennae, provided the microcontroller has a fast enough oscillator.
I also found this googling for a much more analog approach
simple fm transmitter
That's using (at least in one of the styles they're selling) SPI as it's communication signaling. Here's someone's project made to run on an SPI display: https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/14519/fast-refresh-rates-up-to-60fps-with-an-spi-display-ili9341
You should be able to search around for more details on how to drive SPI displays now that you're aware of what that means.
As people already pointed, welding these manually is difficult AND dangerous, there is a chance the cell explodes when you do it.
You can find special equipment to spot weld these quite easily though. But they cost quite a bit. Not worth buying for a pack, but if you want to make a business off it, spending 150$ on one would be a good idea.
here is one (not affiliated, no idea if this one is good, just an example of what you are looking for)
The derivation for this is a nice one.
Power is voltage times current: P=IV, which you can rearrange as V= P/I. Ohm's law is V=IR. Substitute and you get P/I=IR. Multiply both sides by the current (I). P = I^2 R.
The power dissipation on your cable is equal to it's resistance in ohms times the square of the current in amperes -- in this case 5.76 times the resistance of the cable (since you specified the amperage is 2.4A).
You can calculate wire resistance here: https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/wire-resistance (or work it out by hand if you like. Or measure it.)
At my pessimistic parameters (pretty cheap thin wires), at 2.4 amperes and 5V, you'll lose about 0.12 Watts (almost 1%) of the power on a 50cm cable (which is 1m 'long' because power+ground wires). Then four times that if the cable is twice as long (a 2m cable means 4m of wire length the power has to go through).
Transferring the same amount of power (12Watts) at 12V instead of 5V means the current is only 1 Ampere. So, transmission losses would be 5.76x less when compared to 5V (0.17% power loss). The power dissipation does not go down with voltage, it goes down with current, and at higher voltages it takes less current to deliver a given amount of power.
Transmitting 2.4A at 12V means about 29W of transmitted power and the same losses as the 5V system (0.12W) -- but since you're transmitting more power, that represents only a 0.4% loss.
The nature of your power source doesn't matter -- e.g. maximum wattage (in theory). In practice it's entirely possible that some power supplies work more efficiently at some particular voltage -- however this is impossible for me to predict in any useful way.
Hope that helps! Actual amount are back-of-napkin estimate only based on copper wires with a diameter of ~1mm and a resistance of 0.02 ohms/meter
Thanks for your comment. Since I utilized template matching to detect characters, I got impressive results by adding templates for each villager from different game conditions, such as four seasons and the day/night cycle.
If interested, there is a project tutorial including code files, Gerber files, and instructions:
If interested, there is also a project tutorial, including code files and soldering instructions:
https://retropie.org.uk/ is an obvious one (make a cabinet)
use it as an aid to learning *nix type systems (Linux is a not Unix but closish)
do a search for "raspberry pi shields" once you find some kind of sensor(s) that interest you or spark inspiration then why not write some kind of data logger (Python is very popular on the Pi for this kind of thing)
remember that you have the potential to do much more than with an arduino and the Pi is much more than just a retropi machine
just start by familiarising yourself with the pi first, have a look at https://retropie.org.uk/ once you have everything sorted out and running all out on the desk, then you can think about how you can cram it all into a small space!
AFAIK, there is support for those so that the vibe is connected to your GF's phone, and you send the signal to that through wifi/3g so all she needs to do is stay close enough to her phone. But we are talking about a woman, and if I learned anything from fashion from my ex, it's that their clothes are not designed with highly advanced functions such as 'pockets to hold objects in'. Plenty of fake buttons, ribbons and zippers though.
Anyway, as for increasing the range of the remote control, you can't really add power to the BT or modify the vibe, so your only target is that antenna, and the first thing to take note of is polarisation.
We don't know how the antenna is located in the vibe, but if you hold them 90 degrees against each other you will have an absolutely massive signal loss. So try turning the remote on its side and see if the range increases.
Also, always point the remote right at the vibe, as the antenna has deadspots at the tip and bottom.
BT also works on the same 2.4GHz frequency as WiFi, so the high gain antennas are compatible, but with higher gain always comes larger size.
Although something like this could be small enough and a 5dB gain theoretically means it should almost triple the range.
If that is indeed the ID/CC pin, you would connect it through a 56 kOhm resister to VCC.
Here's a useful chart with the various ID pin configurations, based on use cases. Yours should be "USB-C plug to USB 2.0 Type-A plug", I believe.
Tasker and the Cars bluetooth could solve the Andoird problem. It might even be able to sense the iPhone.
if it's a workweek, at the time she would normally be driving, and there is no home wifi, and not within the home geofence, then sound an alarm. Close enough to the home and she could drive back to get it.
If you just want to base it on time, you could have it sound an alarm if she's late and it's not paired with the car.
I use Sonoff S31 wifi outlets in conjunction with Homeassistant (EspHome firmware) logging to InfluxDB and Grafana. Right now I have 3 years or history down to the minute.
You don't necessarily have to go to that extreme. You can just use the free Sonoff app to get historical, but I am not certain how long it retains it.
IR sensor will be more reliable but may not work well with dark items. Perhaps ultrasonic is the best option.
Look for replacement RC transmitter gimbaled joysticks. These types have the ability to be set up as either spring-loaded to center or maintained-position such as would be used for throttle control. Here's an example from Amazon. There are more expensive high-precision types using Hall-effect sensors also available.
The simplest method:
Get these battery powered lights that run on 3 AA batteries. Instead of using the battery pack, connect them to the RV wiring using an adjustable voltage buck converter adjusted to 4.5 volts. Connect a switch in there if desired.
Check the voltage of the battery pack to make sure it's outputting 4.5V before connecting the lights. If you don't have multimeter, buying one will be well worth the investment for this project and any future projects. You'll need it to set the voltage of the buck converter as well. Final note, when doing any vehicle wiring, make sure you're connected to a proper fuse.
FYI; I am sure you had the old style battery around but they make these that work well:
Power Wheels Battery Adapter for Dewalt
Not sure it matters but I know dewalt now has a 40v battery too.
Maybe some arm rests like this: https://www.amazon.com/Packs-Rotating-Extension-Elbow-Armrest/dp/B00QMMMFU8/ref=sr_1_2
I saw most of those as too complicated to put in kid's hands, but this one has lockable buttons so it might be an option...
Hard to beat at this price point and has a huge selection of high quality tips. This will last for a long time.
And my favorite flux
AC is NOT DC. You connect it to the INPUT side of the power supply. You know, the one conveniently labeled "AC".
And what do you mean you can't find one? https://www.amazon.com/Reliapro-ADU120150E1012-Adapter-Transformer-Straight/dp/B00B88621O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=12+ac+transformer&qid=1615227242&sr=8-3
It might, but the time will pass anyways, so might as well start now! A couple of years ago, I ordered this Elegoo Arduino starter kit from Amazon, and started doing the activities in the PDF that came with the kit. It teaches pretty simply, and I started learning. I'm still learning too. Last week I had a 'lightbulb moment' and finally understood what pull-up and pull-down resistors were for and when to use them. I've read the same stuff about them a bunch, and it just clicked for me last week. I'm in the process of using ESPHome to build a ButtonBox for my 2 year-old daughter, and I've got some other things in the works. You can do it!
Can I make a suggestion? I use these small AA battery flashlights for work every day. My go to is the Streamlight jr. LED. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002IO2A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_AAHG1PNPPNS9WWQTT211
Fantastic warranty and customer service!
I've had luck on ebay and Amazon for those in the past.
While this isn't exactly the same, I wonder if it'd fit...
I have these and really like them. They fit really nicely and make good contact. At 30 A, they get a little warm but I ran them on 45 A once for about 20 minutes and it didn't hurt them.
If they should blink, then there's actually LEDs that blink by themselfes likes e.g. these: https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-Blinking-Diffused-Flashing-Resistors/dp/B077XCM7QZ
If you wanto to have something simulating flames, then you could get some of these led tea lights and salvage the electronics.
I am saying you should be using relays that have a 12 volt coil, so you aren’t using the regulator for the relay coil energy.
If you can’t find a 3 terminal switch mode regulator with the footprint you need that can handle the current you need, consider an off-board switch mode buck converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Converter-1-25-36v-Efficiency-Regulator/dp/B079N9BFZC
That's right, not only do they never catch the dot but they never even TOUCH the dot sensation wise. It you play with them long enough like this you can see the frustration building and I've had cats start to huff in desperation. I know they love it at first but I've stopped lasers all together.
For lazy people (like me) I've found that a thing on a string on a stick is the best toy for sitting on the couch like a lump while exercising kitty. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Feather-Retractable-Assorted-Interactive-Exerciser/dp/B07F45GGPT/
I have and I am sad to admit it has spent all of its life in a drawer owing to it's terrible user interface.
My favourite at the moment are those cheap DSO kits (you can also get them pre-made) that come with a nice case. I find I use it 95% of the time for general electronics and only resort to using my bench scope for digital bus debugging etc.
They look like this, https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B076HD5862
If you want one make sure you shop around as they can be obtained really cheaply.
It really illustrates how important a decent user interface is to making something usable!
I don't think you'd have interference issues with CAT-6 cables, but it may violate electrical codes.
I recommend you try one of these little guys.
Fiber is going to be a pain because you would likely still have to terminate it on each end which takes training, expensive tools and expensive connectors.
What about something like this?
TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Starter Kit (TL-PA7017 KIT) - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Ethernet Over Power, Nano Size, Expand Home Network with Stable Connections, Ideal for Smart TV, Online Gaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084CZMYNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NR6KFb45873KA
I have an old thing of Radio Shack brand tip tinner but you can get it from Amazon by just searching "tip tinner". My Radio Shack stuff looks a lot like this.
Thank you! Dang, the only thing I can find is $40 for some reason
Edit: Hmm, that's actually not that expensive by the foot, they just sell so much of it at a time, I don't need 600 ft of it...
Search on Amazon 20kV transformer like this one Miniature DC 3.6~6V to 20KV High Voltage Transformer Boost Step-up Inverter Arc Pulse Generator Power Module Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SWVGXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oHx9Cb9F7RBK1
You can get them for around $8
I got this electronics kit and this set of arduinos. With all this you get three arduinos and all the LEDs, capsators, resistors, diodes, transistors, potentiometers, etc... and a breadboard + jumpers and wires. You can pick a different version of the kit if you want a seven segment display or something, but this is what I got for $33
What is on the other end of the wires that you're trying to control? Seems like an odd pattern to be connecting things, especially with 3 changing polarity between the different states. I thought DPDT at first, but you've got three changes occurring here so I think you actually need 3PDT (Triple Pole Double Throw, two position) to do this
Something like this would work, but make sure what you pick is rated for teh appropriate voltage and current you're switching... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHQ99HL/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_DulzFbHGNCYBN
Sometimes it helps to build a state table when I'm thinking these things out
So you'd have the following configuration on the pins of the switch.
2 - 1 - 4
3 - N - 2
4 - P - 3
Yes, both cut power. This variant of the same model also has two off positions, but they're styled the same. I was just curious why one would be yellow and one green but I think you were right just chalking it up to /r/crappydesign
Found some IEC C14 connecters that have a switch and a fuse. I might try to add that instead of the connectors without.
any suggestions on the type of wires I should use for this project. Is getting a really good wire over kill?
Thanks for the idea - it certainly sounds promising.
I'm waaaay over my head when it comes to electronics. If I can impose on a bit more of your time, would something like a guitar pickup wiring kit with prewired amplifier be a good starting point?
Amazon Wiring Kit
Hmm...that’s a little trickier than my design since the lights will be further apart. I’d maybe check out this LED strip. The lights here are individually addressable, so you can use the peel-off adhesive to stick them to the outside in the corners. You’d have to wire them together on the inside of the mask, but that shouldn’t be too hard. That strip is powered by 5V, so you could use an Arduino Nano and the 5V battery pack, no problem.
Good luck! It’s a killer mask design and I hope it all works out.
Edit: here’s the Amazon link. It didn’t post the first time
BTF-LIGHTING WS2812B 144 LEDs/Pixels/m Individual Addressable Full Color led Pixel Strip Dream Color Non-Waterproof 3.2FT 1m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDTEGGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.9MOEbB8488SK
Recently, I let the little ones of my house play games on my PS4. Undoubtedly one of the controllers broke after getting too hard of a fall.
I go on amazon, ordered one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NYWV186/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I was ecstatic to fix the controller, but as soon as I do the replacement and plug in a charging cable I smelled burning. I open it back up and find the 12 pin ribbon cable melting and giving off the smell.
Power Surge on USB Port (PC) As I plugged it into my computer, my USB port starts to give my PC warning about power surge. Moreover, the replacement JDS-040 does not turn on the RGB lights when I plugged in power. Is the replacement part faulty?
Unknown JDS Board Type The charging port the controller was using previously didn't say what JDS type it was. I assumed it was a JDS-040 because of their shape. The controller worked fine, as it can't charge anymore since the port broke, I needed a replacement.
Any ideas on what I should do? Should I get another replacement JDS-040? I looked everywhere and I don't know how to solve this.
As others have mentioned, windshield/window/snowblower motors are all good options. These types of motors have a built in worm gear gearbox to convert to low speed high torque. Here is an example of one on Amazon that I think would work well for you. This one is a snowblower motor. I would suggest snow blower motors over window/windshield motors because they tend to be built more robustly.
Not sure if this is in the spirit of this subreddit, but you can do this via software if all else fails. Ip webcam for example.
Most smartphones has TRRS headphone jacks (4 conductors, Tip Ring Ring Sleeve), which means two channel output (left and right) and one channel mic level input (mono).
Since tapping into the mic connection of the phone itself likely also gives you mono sound, I would go for the much easier route of making a simple adapter from a headset cable.
Software-wise I don’t have any experience, but google gave me this, which seems capable of routing sound between most interfaces on an Android phone. I didn’t look too close, but check it out!
Edit: If the phone has stereo mics, and you feel confident enough with a soldering iron, I can’t see why not. I’m not sure if you’d need an amp to get mic level or if you can do it in software though.
This is a cable from an aux cable that goes to a retro telephone handset (looks like this). More photos of the cables and going to the mic and speaker
i really like my hakko https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZRT4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
functionally it's the best iron i have used, and the best part is it looks like a fisher price toy.
I have a nice Weller soldering station on my workbench, but those are fairly expensive. In my travel case I have one very similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RY5XWVG/ (the exact one I have doesn't appear to be available anymore).
Here is a USB audio interface for less than 20 dollars.
if i might suggest an alternative instead of trying to cut into your headboard, and causing all kinds of trouble. go simple, get something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GJXVHVK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details and vhb tape it to the side, or even behind.
I've tried that style and it's pretty good - I've also had the more "precise" ones with a slot for each gauge.
For day-to-day work, This German Weicon is my absolute favorite: https://www.amazon.ca/Precision-Automatic-Adjustable-Integrated-Accessible/dp/B001NUMVHQ
Got lucky and found it in a yellowing blister pack on a shelf in an automotive supply shop for like $17.
Does an excellent job with less tugging compared to straight-blade strippers, but with the convenience of not having to lay the wire in a preset gauge slot.
Pata drives are pretty straight forward. I would get a 40 pin ide to usb adapter (https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pata+to+usb+adapter&qid=1663525430&sr=8-3 )
A rapsberry pi or something simiar, with usb 2 or 3. it should have the data speeds to read the drive, you can the program the gpio pins to play/stop/pause/etc when pressed. and use some sort of dvd software display the video.
There are a lot of memory modules out there that are small in size but fairly large in storage. Look at the fact that you can get a USB mass storage device that is only a bit larger than the connector.
You must have other constraints you aren't telling us. For instance:
The more information you can provide about what you need (hard requirements) vs what would be nice to have would help us point you in the right direction.
Thank you. Is AC the only issue? Do you think this would this work?
I don’t know the English expression. May be this helps anyway: https://www.amazon.de/Stirnlochschlüssel-Satz-auswechselbarer-Zapfen-verstellbar-758S-50427/dp/B008XHR4CO/ref=asc_df_B008XHR4CO/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=274683003292&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1625363827780006460&...
I deal with these on customer equipment all the time. Finally got tired of marring them with channel locks and bought the right tool for the job: https://www.amazon.com/Heyco-STANDARD-STRAIN-RELIEF-PLIERS/dp/B001BPY6KI
Got mine on ebay for a bit cheaper used, but worth every penny if you have to do them a lot. The cheaper ones without geared advantage work okay-ish for the smaller cables like those pictured.
I appreciate the clarification - that's correct I'm trying to determine:
I appreciate the answers so far and would appreciate any further input on the above. Thanks for those who have helped so far.
If you look up variable motor pwm speed controllers you can find stuff like this or this.
Most PC fans are 12v. They may run undervolted but ideally you'd need a DC-DC step-up transformer. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Adjustable-Voltage-Regulator-Compatible/dp/B089JYBF25/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=5v+to+12v+step+up&qid=1660166636&sprefix=5v+to+12v%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-3
They're cheap crap so you can only really run like one or two fans on one before it either overheats or overloads. https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-Regulator/dp/B09MT3S6RZ/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=5v%2Bto%2B12v%2Bstep%2Bup&qid=1660166685&sprefix=5v%2Bto%2B12v%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-16&th=1 for a more complete-package reliable version.
First off, If it currently stops at 130C, it may not be safe to make it go higher to 150C. So do it at your own risk.
Probably the simplest way would be to disconnect the existing temp sensor from the heating element, that way it will not register it is getting hot and cut off the temp. but should still leave the other circuitry for the feed motor intact.
Then use an All-Purpose Digital Temperature Controller to turn on the heater and control it's temperature. Just wire the heater into this unit and use its temp probe on the heating element.
Or remove all the old circuitry and then also use an AC to DC step down transformer to power the DC feed motor,
I recommend watching some YouTube videos on basic electronics.
There are also the Make Electronics books that have a lot of projects that walk you through how components work. You can buy the pre-made parts kits for the books, but its usually cheaper to purchase just the parts you want, or to try de-soldering components from old/broken electronics.
You could look into using a usb to 3.5mm jack adapter. This will have an active ic and you can pick up the power from there. Not a perfect solution but keeps you down to 1 plug and could be somewhat clean. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-CableCreation-External-Headset-Microphone/dp/B0776QNHKD/ref=pb_pd_lutyp_ci_mcx_mr_typ_d_1_3/146-6441544-9362932?_encoding=UTF8&content-id=amzn1.sym.0597a2ec-6095-4972-9239-2db74d91f8d1&pd_rd_i=B0776QNHKD&...
Found this guy which may be the right tool for this job. Only 3.3 inches long, I wouldn't even need any logic for it, just a rocker like you suggested.
I can't find any generic electric chokes, but maybe I'm not calling it the right thing. Everything seems to be specific to a particular platform. I think I could make some of them work, but I feel like there's probably a better solution for my application.
You need an OTG cable, it's wired differently from a regular micro USB cable. Usualy they're a dongle with a type b on one end and a type a socket on the other. But a quick search turned up some that are an OTG microB to microB cable instead. Less versatile but more compact if that's what you want. Random example (I have no idea if this specific one is good) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5GZ3N0
Keep in mind that very old android devices may not support OTG, especially if they were low end devices.
Thanks. I was looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/BUNKER-INDUST-Battery-Disconnect-Electrical/dp/B07CSLY9MB
What if I run something that has a high surge like 1200W? I know very little when it comes to electronics so forgive me. I don’t think I can run something that high continuous off one 12v battery (was planning on not exceeding 600-700 watts continuous). Not sure what size fuses the shop will be putting in but I think I read somewhere that others were putting in 130A? I could be wrong on that as that might be for a higher inverter size like 2000 watts.
i dont know why people try to get the old connector type altough op wrote "alternative connectors"
So i would go for something with a bayonett coupler, easy and safe. Something like the EN3 series:
or similar in the size you need.
If you want something more rigid, you could go with a wide industrial standard, the metric "sensor type " connectors, they come in m5,m6,m8, m12 and so on. Therefore a fitting size wouldnt be so hard to find. Plugs are either angled or not, some even have a small led indicating that xy voltage is applied. The are secured with relativly fine threaded outer nut, so its pretty secure, but if you need to unplug/plug it alot of times i would go with the bayonett style. Smaller metric ones tend to break relativly easy as they stand out alot if you dont go for the angled plug.
12V shouldnt be a problem for all those options, but be aware of some current limitations for each plug, just check what your device really needs.
I hope i could help, if not just reach out again.
(sorry for bad english, im not a teadrinker nor burgereater ;) )