I prioritized my Sunday and designed and printed these stackable rack-holders for my NUC11 cluster. They came out nicely after the first totally mis-measured try.
You can find the TinkerCAD link here: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hd0kVVEfScA-shiny-duup/edit?sharecode=fOD05HuwvrzrLNjnechzYS48IIIRZ_BmwLbDcte7HQo
I printed it with a very rough 0.25mm layer height to see if it fits correctly on the NUCs and for that the quality is good enough. I will probably not print them in better quality, as they work as intented. Printing time is ~1h30min for the bottom one and ~2h30min for the intermediate piece, which does require supports to be added.
Enjoy!
I have that exact specification nuc, but im using the cheaper samsung Samsung SM961 Polaris nvme and a cheapo sandisk 2.5 in the sata slot. 8gb single stick memory.
A quick google of cpu benchmark shows it will probably be a significant improvement.
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare.php?cmp[]=134&cmp[]=2879
The NC100 is a great case for the NUC9 if you need a bit more room - I did consider it but ultimately decided against because while bigger, it wasn't actually compatible with any of the larger 30 series cards. Without being able to drop really any 3080 / 3090 into it, I just went for the smallest form factor to fit a 3060 Ti.
As for the RAM, this is the precise kit I bought if it's of any help: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B083W5ZRJ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Both 8gbx2 and 16gbx2 appear to be in stock for mid August delivery.
Not sure about any alternatives, but I'll put a link to a replacement fan below.
https://www.amazon.com/Delta-BSB05505HP-0-40A-CT02-769264-001/dp/B07YRTW8RL
Something akin to https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-M2-NW107R-Gigabit-Ethernet-Module/dp/B077BQXVT4 might be what you're looking for, but you're going to have to make sure your unit is properly secured and out of the way because if the cable gets tugged, your machine is going with it.
As SerMumble called out, getting a thermal pad should help. I bought a pack of these and stick them on SSD's that are close to chassis for heat transference. Several 4x4 NUC's I've bought already include them on the "lid" in a location where reinstalled the lid makes the pad touch the installed SSD.
if you don't have one on your SSD, take a look at lid to see if it comes close to contact and then try installing one. It should help quite a bit.
ahaha, yup, waiting on backorder too.
I doubt you would see any significant difference in getting a PN50. The link below is not the best deal but I found it after a few seconds of googling. The PN51 should do a paper launch until next year.
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Barebone-R5-4500U-Processor-DisplayPort/dp/B08G1TMKLG
As for the NUC11i3, it's really not a terrible computer for the right price but aside from decade old strategy games or heavily optimized ones, it will probably struggle with anything recent. I did spot the NUC11i5 on sale on Newegg for ~$450 now and then so there is hope.
Its always best to balance your RAM sticks. So, 2x16 GB RAM is better than 1x 32GB RAM stick. Additionally, its best to stick to same type and manufacturer.
Here's a recommendation for the Samsung M.2
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-Plus-MZ-V7S2T0B/dp/B07M7Q21N7
Samsung has the Pro and EVO lines. Pro branded SSDs/NVMEs are faster, etc. But overkill for most people. There's also another line for storage that's a bit slower. You see them on the SSD lines, but not on the M.2 NVME. Other brands will have similar product differentiation.
Here's a recommendation for the RAM. You can use this or others as well. The search term should be "DDR4 3200 MHz laptop ram"
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-DDR4-Laptop-Memory-CT8G4SFRA266/dp/B08C4X9VR5
I have had good luck with this one: TP-Link USB Bluetooth Adapter for PC(UB400), 4.0 Bluetooth Dongle Receiver Support Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP for Desktop, Laptop, Mouse, Keyboard, Printers, Headsets, Speakers, PS4/ Xbox Controllers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V1SZCY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_biCcGb4CK9EG4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yep, but I'd recommend an inexpensive hub so you get some ports too (assuming you don't need anything more than 2560x1440 at 60Hz for your second monitor). https://www.amazon.co.uk/Delivery-microSD-Multiport-Adapter-MacBook/dp/B083DZ1X27/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=usb-c+hub&qid=1606666374&s=electronics&sr=1-4
The tinkerboard runs smoothly with Armbian, deluged, openvpn, ProtonVPN, I put in a 500GB SD for the torrents and other stuff and it run's headless in the corner !!! With VNC if I need for some reason to run X
You would have to make a cable that goes from a cigarette lighter plug to the molex connectors used on that board. A molex pigtail is provided with the board, and you could combine it with this to make a power cable.
speed looks to be off based on spec from intel site.
i would try the ram below.
You're welcome and I forgot amazon links are silently blocked here. This is the ram I use because the timings are pretty good. CL18 when most ram is CL22. Best wishes with the upgrade!
Yep. I've got a similar setup on my NUC8. Though you may want to get one of the antenna versions that has a base since you'll have nowhere to mount the antennae without the screw terminals fixed to the case, and just laying loose on the desk may not be any better than the internal ones.
So here's the cable and an antenna with a base, since they don't come in one kit together.
Have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083KQNHQP working with dual monitors on NUC11PHKi7. This system has both intel and discrete graphics ; but afaik the usbc ports connect to the intel xe graphics.
Hmm, you are right.
The Wifi module has an E-key (12pin), the slot is also an E-key, and there are no small SSDs with the E-Key form factor, they are all A-Key (4pin)
Well there goes the idea that 4x physically fit in there.
There are adaptors from A/E key to something else like M-key, but it would not fit in there.
I'm not trying to make a server with multiple 2.5" SSDs just yet, but thanks for the suggestion on the M.2 to SATA card, perhaps i'll make a server NUC out of the NUC i'm currently tinkering with.
got a nuc 11 extreme Cheap. Got 64 gig for 150 on amazon. total memory more then makes up for the speed. Memory is still available at that price and confirmed to be compatible.
As long as they are active USB-C to HDMI adapters they should work. You might want to get something like this so you still have a free TB port - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0894B525X/
What i have been using in mine, no issues yet
Crucial RAM 32GB Kit (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL22 (or 2933MHz or 2666MHz) Laptop Memory CT2K16G4SFRA32A
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B08C4X9VR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had the same screen flickering with my NUC11 i5 Performance. Some others had the same issue and they all reported that upgrading the HDMI cable solved their issue...it also solved it for me.
It's not the cheapest cable, but a nice piece of technology: Belkin AV10175bt2M-BLK
I dont use a usb-c to usb-c cable. on my nuc 12 (and nuc 11) i used this with no problems:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B09J2F57VV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i am using this @ 3440x1440 100hz
They do not, USB-C PD is pretty expensive for not a lot of gain. Some of the 4x4 platforms do have internal power headers you can use to hardline to a battery though. I have used converters like this though and they work great to wire up direct. https://www.amazon.com/DAYKIT-Female-2-1x5-5MM-Adapter-Connector/dp/B01J1WZENK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=266H0LC4FEGES&keywords=barrel+jack+to+2pin+jst&qid=1667004907&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjU1IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=ba...
Sell Hades, buy Phantom Canyon (now discounted) and this reduction https://www.club-3d.com/en/detail/2547/mini_displayport_1.4_to_hdmi_4k120hz_with_dsc1.2_active_adapter_m-f/
eGPU is working (I have it) but it could be a bit of hassle so unless you are techie I would recommend something already built and simple.
The price is accurate for barebones so I would keep it. Do an Internet search for nuc12wshi5 and you will find prices around $550.00.
There are a couple of other companies advertising the same combo (8GB+500GB+Win11Home) which makes it seem like a cut-and-paste issue. About a $100 value.
FYI - US power cord available on Amazon for $10.
Here -
how did you check the RAM stuff? I have in mine (the 9th gen i9 ghost canyon BXNUC9I9QNX) this set of Corsair 2x32GB sticks https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07YBW84K9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is CPU-Z enough?
For memory these are the dimms I've used with mine. CL18 non-XMP, no issues with stability.
If I were to try this, I'd track down a Noctua 5V fan of whatever size (This one would be good) and then find an adapter on Amazon to convert the fan's existing PWM connector to the board's existing CPU fan connector. This cable might be what does it, but you'd want to check the board connector yourself to be sure. Also confirm the wire colors etc.
The case's holes for adding external antenna can probably be used for this purpose, but you might need to redo the connector to get it done since those holes might be too small for the connectors to fit through.
I currently have an Akasa on my NUC10i7FNH externally, but use a USB 92mm Noctua. I'd suggest skipping all the challenges with wiring to the CPU fan connector and just stick a USB version next to it. There's really no concern about having the fan run 24/7 compared to turning off and on as needed. They are designed to be on all the time, and the power draw they pull is tiny.
I was using that too, but mine only supported up to 1080p.
This was the one I was using before: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Fosmon-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Adapter/dp/B007RQ3J7G
(Or check the image in the original post). Well anyway, fixed now! Thanks for the help! :D
I'm probably going to just get the NUC. The SSD will be put to work because it is loading and reading many samples for the piano VST. It will get hot which I bet will contribute to temperature and fan uptime.
I was thinking of getting a SSD with a heatsink. I think this should fit in the m.2 slot of the NUC right?
Thanks, I'm going with the Intel. It has better single core performance which is important for my usage.
I also wanted to get a heat sink NVME to help with temps since it is such a small system. This should fit fine in the NUC right? Amazon: WD SSD w/ heatsink
If it's the AC adapter you need, you may be able to use a USB-C PD laptop adapter with a converter cable that terminates in a 5.5mm x2.5mm barrel plug, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Female-Rectangle-Charge-Laptop-5-52-5mm/dp/B08331ZNTP
Be mindful that you'll need a 65W adapter at minimum, while the NUC likely comes with a 120W adapter. This is because the NUC's USB-C ports support power delivery and so the adapter needs extra wattage to provide the juice to those ports. If you don't use the PD feature, 65W should be adequate.
sure it's just a generic 2.5mm x 5.5mm to usb c pd adapter
you can make them yourself (I have in the past) with a ZYPDS board but these off the shelf products are actually quite good and look far more pro than I can pull off
I appreciate the responses. This is what I was thinking of throwing together, but maybe I should look for the i9 since I probably won't upgrade the compute unit.
It's this guy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08298QCHT/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_CKE86RJQ0Y341GWGS6HK_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm not really fussed about it not working properly, just kinda worried there's some weird usb3 bandwidth issue or the like going on that will rear it's head in other ugly ways.
Have a look at this first, then decide what u want to do
Good choice, I've got that same NUC. And if you ever need to beef up your VMs you'll be happy to know that despite Intel's spec sheet, it actually supports 64GB. I've got two of these in mine, but I'm sure others will work as well.
ElecGear iNUC-H Vertical Stand for Intel NUC Mini PC, Aluminum Cooling Holder Case Desktop VESA Mount Space-Saving Organizer, Compatible with Thin Edition of Intel NUC 10, 8, 7 and 6 Mainstream Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z2NQ17D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_N4XCMKKJK86VMZQPR4X4
Well for example this says it's an Intel NUC and even has a link to the Intel Store but it certainly doesn't seem like an Intel product. Is this really Intel?
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Extreme-NUC11BTMi9-Gaming-Barebone/dp/B09FDX7VLC
REKONG WiFi 6 AX200NGW M.2 2230 WiFi Network Card Dual Band 160MHz MU-MIMO 802.11AC AX 3000Mbps 2.4Ghz 5Ghz BT5.2 AX200 Wireless Adapter OFDMA Support vPro Miracast Only for Windows 10/11,64 bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0861V1P9P/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_28SXPX8XRAHE0WK84HF2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the module I used. I got it a while back so if you're getting one might as well get the newer version. Ax210
It's only $10 more on Amazon for a this 500GB...sadly Don't seem to be many deal on the ones I listed above, if you can afford it then bump up to a 1TB but you have plenty of slots to add so it's not that big a deal compared to people with one one.
WD_BLACK 500GB SN770 NVMe Internal Gaming SSD Solid State Drive - Gen4 PCIe, M.2 2280, Up to 4,000 MB/s - WDS500G3X0E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QVPCJN2/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_7CN6TACBWEC8HRZYT4W2
I had to buy cooler master's nc100 case. Intel wouldn't replace the psu even though I had warranty on it.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterCase-Extreme-Element/dp/B08CWTBWJY
Its pretty common for lighter / cheaper monitors. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-VG240Y-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B07CYJ47JB
But there's no good way to find them except for clicking on each page and hoping there's a picture of the back. So I thought I'd ask here.
Don't pick a monitor cause you can rearmount your nuc...Choose a display that fits your needs. Most displays are mounted through vesa mounts to their feet.
With that, you can use such mounts in between feet and display case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KB4YWQS
Worked perfect for me :)
I have a 1-slot GPU so there’s spare room, I have two of these drive bays with one internal and the other sticking out the back. You could probably fit more drives in, but my motherboard only has the 4 SATA ports so not much point in more drive space for me.
If you buy the smaller square NUCs, you might have some trouble running three high resolution monitors simultaneously. It's really a lack of video ports that's the issue with the smaller unit. The NUC Extreme, which is more like a traditional PC yet still small, would be more appropriate in a three monitor scenario.
Two monitors will be fine for the smaller NUC.
After running cat /etc/issue and os-release, I got the following:
``Debian GNU/Linux bullseye/sid \n \I
Pretty_Name=Debian GNU/LINUX bullseye/sid
ID=debian
Home_URL="https://www.debian.org/"
"When I ping, it says the network is unreachable" or "Temporary failure in name resolution."
Ifconfig doesn't work at all. Says command not found.
NUCs range from Celeron models all the way up to an i7. It doesn't sound like something an i3 or even a Celeron model couldn't handle. This one was recently on sale, so maybe you can catch a discount on it again. I'm not sure whether that particular model can handle the load, but you can't get much more power-efficient than that.
(I have a 7i5 running as the family PC and a 5i5 set up as a HTPC with Windows 8 Media Center.)
Look at the CPUz pictures, maybe translate the relevant comments JEDEC 2666mhz at 1.2v, 3200mhz 1.35v. Crucial Ballistix BL2K8G32C16S4B 3200 MHz, DDR4, DRAM, Gaming Kit Speicher für Laptop, 16GB (8GB x2), CL16 https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B083VWCZLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_KV5XXB0DG8M17N0BPZ8F
Most JEDEC 3200mhz RAM have bad Latency so you won't really have an improvement over 2666mhz. I bought the regular Crucial 3200mhz RAM and it works fine.
Can't find the spec sheet but Amazon is advertising a min. Of 2666mhz, not sure if that's a thing that it doesn't go lower then that.
Crucial RAM CT32G4SFD832A 32GB DDR4 3200MHz CL22 (or 2933MHz or 2666MHz) Laptop Speicher https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B07ZLC7VNH/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_8G2NXF16ZPW36Z6RK1PH
Though exhaust on the top means intake on the sides when mounting vertically. That's what I have done and I think it's probably better than what Intel recommends.
Intel recommends exhaust on the side with intake on the top and bottom, like this product is displayed on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/HumanCentric-Mounting-Compatible-Extension-Computer/dp/B07KB4YWQS
No that is pcie 4 which you don't have so no advantage and they all run hot. This is the right one but it is out of stock, got mine for 88€ with tax included.
It may or may not have a 2400 speed profile on it, which is what the NUC needs, so it may run 2133 if it doesn't have a 2400 profile in the SPD. I haven't run this 3200 kit before, so I don't know what intermediate profiles Crucial includes. I know on the 2666 kits, they include the 2400 profiles, but I can't say for sure that they do on the 3200 kits.
I'd personally recommend either getting a 2400 version (which is not available on Amazon at the moment for the Crucial) or getting this G.Skill kit for $106, which would definitely work.
There is also Minisforum X500 with Ryzen 5700G which is really powerfull, I saw it on Amazon, some pricy version - https://www.amazon.de/-/en/threads-Radeon-Graphics-Bluetooth-Factor/dp/B097GC9N7L/ref=sr_1_4?crid=30G0WXU14WLX9&keywords=minisforum+5700+g&qid=1642491082&sprefix=minisforum+5700g%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-4
This segment is still weird, some improvement will come with Rembrandt apu in terms of gpu but it will be still far from real usability and it will be also very costly.
I would try out a few distros first as virtual machines using VirtualBox or VMware Workstation Player which are both free. This will allow you to run any Linux distro you want to try out without wiping your boot drive.
If you decide that you'd like to use Linux full-time on that machine, then you should definitely make a full-image backup as others have suggested.
I was also looking at two alternative in the same price range:
- Western Digital 4TB WD Blue 3D NAND - WDS400T2B0A
- Crucial MX500 4TB 3D NAND SATA - CT4000MX500SSD1
both seems to be TCL, hence better that QLC, no?
any idea?
Just get a whole set, it will come in handy in the future... https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B08LL1J7R2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_V2SM2K11D2A5W1WRS8NT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Personal Computer Schrauben Standoffs Set,500 Stück M2 M2.5 M3 Laptop Notebook Computer https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B0948TPD17/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_AQEBB6NJBH9QXP3GWKEF
Oh sorry, I put it in a caption but not the comment, they are NUC8i5BEH so i5-8259u. Not sure what you mean by big ones but the 5V version of the Noctua fan for this heatsink is NF-A9 5V PWM. They seem to have a 5V version in most sizes now. Removing the stock heatpipes and using a copper shim might give better performance also. I didn't feel the need myself.
There's been other mods neater than mine where people have cut out the top of the case.
Yeah, I had issues like this as well trying to get it to properly recognise a 4K60 picture on my B7 (via a Denon AVR).
In the end, solved it by just putting a cheap HDMI splitter/ HDCP stripper I had lying around between the NUC output and the TV/AV input. It essentially does nothing, but at least it spits out a signal with a valid EDID that other devices seem to like more.
I looked at this one for HP and also this one for Alienware which seems similar, except the Alienware one is 240 watt (is that an "up to" number?). I'm not worried about it being 7.4mm OD instead of 7.5 because the outer ring usually contacts a spring anyway.
Good tip on the multimeter. I have a nice one I was about to put in storage, I'll keep it out a little longer.
Tripp Lite P007-006 Heavy Duty Computer Power Cord, 15A, 14AWG (NEMA 5-15P to IEC-320-C13), 6-ft Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0027JRMD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0N2FH2B1XQ7CVXZYK9S0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have 3 Intel Nuc8i5beh stacked,
I got this for like £12 or so at the time I think just removed the middle pillar and used some glue on the joins to add some stability it was solid enough but when I occasionally tried to move or readjust one of the unit it was a pain if a joint popping out. but with the glue to hold them together it has been rock solid.
Crucial RAM CT16G4SFRA32A 16GB DDR4 3200 MHz CL22 this the right one, I get my Nuc11 next month?
Yeah, doesn't hurt to ask, maybe they can find out or even provide some kind of fix.
If you want a really expensive solution for your problem though, you can check out this stuff:
https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/options/page/flow-multi-device-control
I use HWMonitor on my NUC8i7BEH/Win 10 machine to monitor temperatures and performance. See https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
HWMonitor shows temperatures for each core and attached SSD etc. Very informative. For example, it provides core temperatures, clock speeds and SSD airflow temperatures etc. Unfortunately, it does not provide graphs.
The Intel Extreme Tuning utility does provide detailed graphs of temperatures and clock speeds, but does not provide SSD airflow temperatures. See https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/24075/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU-
Installing the RAM and SSD are pretty brainless unless you are the kind of person that thinks eating a gooey cheeseburger over computer parts is fine. I wouldn't worry about those at all. It's 5 screws and some Lego pieces basically.
I did my Win10 install from a disk using an external USB drive. The drive was recognized immediately in the BIOS just by plugging it in, so overall the install was silky smooth. Installing from a USB jump drive should be just as easy I'd imagine.
I'd suggest not fiddling with the fan speeds in the BIOS until after you've had it up and running for a bit. Get used to what it sounds like before making changes you have some context for making changes.
Install HWMonitor to keep an eye on your temps: https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
I use that tool quite a bit on my NUC just to see what the min/max temps get to when doing things.
Also, try installing the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility if you want to tune down the TDP. This will slightly slow down performance, but can help reduce temps if you hit a ceiling on fan speed noise. I already turned off the burst mode and tuned down TDP to keep things in the 60-70c range.
​
There is nothing standard or cross-platform about SNMP other than the network interface statistics. Even CPU, memory, and disk stats can vary wildly between platforms.
On Linux, hardware sensor data is usually handled by lm-sensors. The net-snmp daemon uses lm-sensors for the sensor data and reports using a lm-sensors specific OID. As long as lm-sensors supports your hardware, it can be reported via SNMP. Currently, only temperature data is reported on NUCs via lm-sensors. Fan data is not available. Apparently, NUCs are using a newer interface for reporting fan info, not the older SIO interface.
On Windows, some vendors provide an additional sub-agent for hardware specific information. Intel has one, but it seems to only be for their server hardware.
I also found that the software SpeedFan (http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php) has an SNMP plugin (https://wp.biesma.net/speedfan-snmp-sfsnmp).
It looks like Intel might be intending enterprises to use the Management Engine/AMT for monitoring hardware information which is well beyond most end-users abilities.
Not at all, a software that does its best to spy on you is what classifies as a malware (or spyware for that matter).
In case you might wonder what kind of "phone home" features are included with win10:
Oh that's very promising! The values aren't greyed out so you should be able to change them. I know you don't want to overclock but if you could do one more favour I would be in your debt :)
Would you mind just changing P7 on the GPU to 1020Mhz and P2 on the memory to 710? Hit apply and then open up GPU-Z to confirm if the clock speeds have changed? This is a super mild overclock and if it works I'm 99.9% certain it wouldn't cause any stability issues but should confirm our suspicions the GPU is unlocked.
GPU-Z is available here:
https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/
Thank you!
WSL2 is hypervised with performance much improved over WSL1. Docker desktop supports it. See https://www.docker.com/blog/new-docker-desktop-wsl2-backend/
I already have a Seagate 600 256GB 2.5" SSD that I have from another machine that I was going to use. What did you use to make your bootable usb flash drive for the installer? I have used Etcher in the past with no problems.
I think it should be possible to install Ubuntu in UEFI mode without problem. Have you created the install medium according to that? Rufus can help you with that. Also I would suggest to use 64bit image.
I was using a mix of KVM and dual input monitors but got tired of using multiple steps and switched to NX instead. The NUC is sitting somewhere in the house and I can access it from any laptop or workstation.
Disclosure: vendor speaking
Yodeck will definitely be easier in the long run. You need to have a subscription for three screens ($8/screen per mo), but you get a free Raspberry Pi 4 assembled kit for each screen. And it can turn on and off TVs on a schedule, to prevent panel wear. Also, it will also allow to do scheduling, e.g. automatically show different menus in different hours (breakfast, lunch, etc) or days (specials, etc). And the best thing: OS updates and software updates are all handled by the service, you don’t need to do anything. IMHO, much better than a wallpaper on a Windows machine or Firesticks.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I don't want it as a workstation, I want it most importantly as a home server (voice controlling hue lights and wifi plugs through VoiceAttack + nodejs is one of the projects I have in mind), then using it as HTPC. Virtualization would be a cool feature, I would like to setup something like huginn. I won't be using virtualization for a destkop experience, just as a server: boot up a linux machine, setup everything through ssh from another machine and then leave it running. My concerns are if with everything running at the same time will I have issues with the HTPC part? I am not planning to stream 4k content, but it should be able to flawlessly play 1080p video from youtube, Twitch and BitTorrent streaming. Thanks for your help.
Rome Tech RTC CMOS Battery for Intel NUC and ASUS ROG Strix G702 G702V - Laptop Backup BIOS NUC CMOS Battery CR2032 with 2 Pin Wire Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NZVFQRJ/
I've had to use the same battery in various mini-ITX boards, and it should be the same. Connector looks identical, and even the listing says it works with the NUC.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD1W6SB
I went with dual 1TB Muskin Pilot-E, 980Pro is nice but is wasted on the Phantom Canyon being it doesn't support pci-e 4.0.
Since 8th gen NUCs intel NUCs and Asrock nuc size mini PCs have been using about double the fan size of older generations to reduce noise, it works very well. I run an Asrock 4x4 4800U and it is typically inaudible next to me and should be quiet for you because of the doubled cores at a reduced transistor size can handle more load with less heat.
.
If you want dead quiet, I should recommend something more skull canyon size like Asrock Desk mini series with a massive heatsink. There is a X300 kit that sells on and off for $170 in stock on Newegg but this is an all in one kit you might like:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0847TCY5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZHPCENWT14ACM2GPTC4F
.
And of course if you are patient there is nothing better than this preorder at this price and size:
https://store.minisforum.com/products/hx90?_pos=2&_sid=3610bb3b1&_ss=r
Velcro pad works really well to reposition the computer or buy new antennas.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LVH5BCP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_044YSAMXGYHBYCR6NA5P
That sounds like the problem I had frequently when turning my NUC on. I tried several things, but the only thing that worked consistently was using a USB-C to HDMI connector instead of plugging the HDMI cable into the HDMI port. I plug the HDMI cable into the HDMI port, I WILL have problems, though not every time, if I plug it into the USB-C to HDMI connector plugged into my USB-C port, then I never have that problem.
Here is the adaptor I use.
You are probably not wanting to buy a whole bunch of adaptors, but for me, I got tired of trying other options without sucess.
Edit: Oops, I missed where you said a mini display port adaptor. My NUC does not have that port.
I've got one of those too...I got it to use the USB-C for an external drive, but it did not quite get the speed I wanted, The M.2 drive maxes out if plugged directly into the NUC's USB-C, but not through the adaptor; it got the same speed as using one of the other USB ports, so there was no point in using it in my case. It is still sitting in the box... It did work, I just don't need it since it did not meet my particular needs of chasing speed. I love the drive case.
you need something like this, it’s ugly and wouldn’t do this one per say but it’s an example
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
They're $8 and you can use use a type A port. It's just a little DAC, I have a load of these because they always come in handy. The USB-C ($9) one should work as well since it's a true DAC, while the dongle you're using is likely passive (since the port doesn't have an analog audio alt mode, the passive adapter doesn't work).
I think they assumed most people were using HDMI audio, or they had a supply issue with DAC chips. Hard to say. But they released an "S" model of the NUC 8 the same way, with stripped down features, and it is the "N" version in the NUC 10 that got the skimpy features list.
I just bought the exact same NUC and got the following M2 which does not get detected either.
Samsung SSD 256GB PM991 M.2 2242 42mm PCIe 3.0 x4 NVMe MZALQ256HAJD MZ-ALQ2560 Solid State Drive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K79T9G5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Updated to the latest BIOS and it still won't show up in the BIOS.
I was wondering if you found a solution to your issue?
Thanks.
I use a USBC to HDMI adaptor too, though with a NUC 8 to avoid power-ups that display a snow/noise screen. It might be me, but I think the display looks better than using the HDMI Nuc port.
I ended up being able to resolve the boot issue with this information. On /u/jstjohnz's suggestion, I picked up this cord:
and connected it to the USB header on the board, and connected a keyboard. I was able to boot into bios with <F2>. From there I was able to navigate to advanced > usb (with a mouse) and change the USB settings from 'no detect' to 'enabled' (thankfully, no supervisor password was set so it didn't require any other information). This solved my issue and now I can boot into bios using the normal USB ports.
Yeah, just standard RP-SMA antennas would screw onto the end of the cables. In the front you'd have to be sure about the size to fit under the cover, but if rear mounting you could use whatever size antennas you wanted, even really long 9dBi antennas.
For the front you might be limited to something small like these, and for the rear it's up to you, 6dBi would be a better range level, but larger.
The Compute Element itself comes with the antennas which you can place into the front of the chassis. https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000055855/intel-nuc.html
But if you want to use the external antennas on the rear, you'd need cables with MMCX connectors on one end (for the NUC board) and SMA on the other for the antennas. Something like this, although you may need a different length, this is just an example of the style.
External monitors and peripherals needed for serious work is "PC master race"-level nonsense. Let's not dwell on that. They simply improve efficiency when available. That's it.
Anyway, this isn't really the topic of discussion you opened. I obviously can imagine a situation where you have fully equipped workstations at home and at work, but you never need a PC outside of these places - so you prefer to carry around a NUC. This is extremely niche (and a little weird), but plausible.
But in that case: why carry the power supply and experiment with adapters? Why not have a cheap dedicated power brick in both locations?
>But if I could choose between using a weak connector vs keeping a bulky brick, I'd definitely choose the former.
Just to make this clear: connector choice doesn't impact the size of power brick. Output voltage and power do.
So you don't have to make that choice. If you want a small power supply for a NUC, you can just get anything with matching output: a 5.5x2.5mm pin, 19V, 65W. And you can forget about the USB-C adapter.
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/3-42A-Charger-ADP-65DW-PA-1650-78-AD887320/dp/B07FSJRTX3
And if you have a frugal NUC, there's a choice of even smaller 45W models.
5.5x2.5mm 19V is a very popular standard.
But why would I want to carry my desktop PC to the office?
I don't understand your use case, but that's irrelevant here.
NUC is a desktop. That's why they bundle a cheap power adapter - not something smaller and more efficient like we get with high-end laptops. It shouldn't really matter.
Anyway, you can obviously use any power supply as long as it delivers the required U and I. It's just electricity.
Keep in mind that USB-C PD supplies have to be triggered to provide more than 5V. This is why "fast" phone chargers often don't offer "fast charging" for 3rd party phones. So if you just use a basic pin adapter, you'll probably end up with 5V.
You will need a PD mode trigger (it may be built into the adapter):
https://www.amazon.com/Type-C-USB-C-charge-trigger-detector/dp/B07T6LPP9W
The adapter from your post supposedly does that. But honestly... it just doesn't look like something I would want to use to power an expensive PC. ;)
I’m probably missing something…. But I’ve been doing this for years using surge protectors with auto switch functionality- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006PUDQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_1MTTJEGSXKWT60PNYV8Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Alternatives which are available include
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SG9RKXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RY2NSR2EG6C4QBB2TPZ6
And AMDs such as
You might be able to get away with something like this with the lid off, but it's going to be a tight fit. This hardware might not quite be the best target for this project.
https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-M2-NW107R-Gigabit-Ethernet-Module/dp/B077BQXVT4
Thank you very much for the reply.
I need to connect 2 HDMI monitors, 1920 x 1080.
I have a Origin Storage OSDOCK-USB3 and it caused the unit to blue screen a few times. I opened a support case with Intel who opened a remote session, fixed the issue but the adviser told me that the NUC doesn't support docking stations. Maybe they meant it doesn't support USB-A docks ?
Looking around people do seem to using TB3 docks, also on the Itel site my unit does have some Plugable TB3 docks listed as validated (although these are very expensive).
I was wondering if I could use something like this ? I don't want to cause any more system issues
Any advice is welcome, thank you
For video editing, it may struggle due to it only having integrated iGPU support on CPU. You may get away with basic tasks but a dedicated video card is needed for more advanced editing (NR, Color Grading on the fly, Stabilization, etc.)
Same thing for gaming. Really helps to have a dedicated GPU. There are some NUCs with that setup but they can get expensive. Check out the BXNUC8i7INHX. Has Radeon 540x with 512 cuda cores+ dedicated 2gb ram rather than 48 on the iris. Goes a long way for both video editing and gaming and not as pricey as the new high-performance nucs.
I went with the i5BEH because it is a surprisingly effective video transcoder due to the Quicksync implementation. I use the NUC8i5BEH as a low power file and media server and it works great. i7 would have just provided unnecessary heat + power draw for my use case.
Consider looking into some other nucs or used computers. A computer you can put a graphics card into makes all the difference in price as you grow and want to add upgrades.
Best of luck!
I have this exact set in my NUC9 extreme and can confirm that it works at 3200C16 via XMP: https://www.amazon.com.au/Crucial-Ballistix-Gaming-PC4-19200-BL2K8G32C16S4B/dp/B083W5ZRJ1/ref=pd_all_pref_n_1?pd_rd_w=iStuE&pf_rd_p=2696691f-c9d7-424f-9ad3-5ccfed160d6e&pf_rd_r=Y927DKEH1EK1WC3Q33Y3&pd_rd_r=aed258cf-4141-455a-a302-6d89f...
Actually the Kingston ValueRAM (KVR26S19D8/16)16GB 2666MHz DDR4 is CL19.
And the Crucial DDR4 is CL17. No clue what that is frankly.