What are /r/battlebots' favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

fwiw, i had a lot of radio interference problems on my heavyweight at robogames 2017, then i wrapped up all the high amp wires inside the bot with EMI tape and it seemed to fix it.

Somewhere he mentioned they came from amazon. Not sure if this is the exact one or not. Shoes similarly

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Styles-Light-Astrohoodie-X-Large/dp/B00RC72DYU/ref=sr_1_51?keywords=light+up+hoodie&qid=1568341671&s=gateway&sr=8-51

In the US you can subscribe to the season via amazon for $30 and watch that way (with no commercials!).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1MWXXR

It streams via Philo: https://try.philo.com/

And also streaming cable systems like Direct TV Now also have discovery in their basic package.

here's a proper picture for people who no longer use 56k modems, /u/V900 - because watching in 480p is so 2005 :p

jk, happened to have some free time. feel free to use this image.

I still recommend the riobotz book. It gets to the point, has great information, and answers 99% of the questions most people ask, but don't take the time to actually research. If you read the book cover to cover, you'd have very few questions left. Plus, it's free to download, or you can buy a physical copy (like I did) from Amazon.

Charles, thanks for mentioning that it's on Amazon Video! I had lost all hope of watching it legally this season and I hadn't seen this option mentioned anywhere else on this sub. I'll gladly pay $20 for a season - that's only a dollar an episode!

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dy3l9UtXKiy-ug0re-bot The best I can do with my limited ability to use the CAD. I did made small modification. The blade positioning is too high for the bot to be inverted so I remove top free wheel, rebar the weapon's support so it can hold up better. Maybe someone with better skill can use this and add in all the details.

Episodes 1,2 and 5 are free to watch on the Science Channel website at the moment if you're in the US. You can also sign up to Philo to watch them on demand, or buy a season pass or individual episodes from amazon.

Read this book to see what it was like “back in the day” and see if you fee the same way: Gearheads: The Turbulent Rise of Robotic Sports https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000SGDPZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h9UMFb49MPC9C

I'd recommend getting an ia6 receiver instead of the ia6b. It's smaller, lighter, and probably cheaper. Plus it often comes bundled with the FS-i6 transmitter. You also have no need for the iBus.

https://www.banggood.com/FlySky-FS-i6-2_4G-6CH-AFHDS-RC-Transmitter-With-FS-iA6-Receiver-p-922606.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

Wow so much better with Subs. Love the banter between the celebs. Really able to get a sense for there personalities. Makes their choices make so much more sense.

The guys have too much loyalty and pride in blind their choices.

I want to give gold, but thats sorta useless. Can I buy you a coffee? https://www.buymeacoffee.com

> The United States has restricted the entry of all foreign nationals who have visited Brazil, China, Iran, the Schengen Area, Ireland, or the United Kingdom in the past 14 days.

Sauce

I don't see that being lifted by October. It's too bad because Minotaur is an amazing bot. They had a rough beginning last year but they pulled it together. Lots of foreign bots are amazing. I want to see them all fight but that's not going to happen this year. I do feel we will still have an amazing season though.

FUCKING ROBOT RAGE. It was my shit- so interesting from developing and painting your robots to finding people in the arena to fight. I think you could even chat in battle- but it was thrilling. Went on it a year or two ago, and it was all but abandoned. I hope that's what you're talking about.

Edit: link

Basic design We want to keep it within weight limit, so we want to use plastic frame. We are willing to move up a weight class if we have to and use aluminum.

Edit: formating is hard.

Once again, use an adblocker and make sure your antivirus is working well.

Here you go. Channel 2 (use the tab bottom-left of the feed to select) seems to work well and is using local station 22 but I don't know if that's the one that's being delayed or not.

I’ve been avoiding posting this and getting people’s hopes up because it might be a mistake, but it seems that the title will be “Qualifier Chaos”:

http://www.tvmaze.com/episodes/1335505/battlebots-3x01-qualifier-chaos Take it with a grain of salt though, I haven’t been able to verify it anywhere else

It's certainly viable to 3d print an antweight, there are even "plastic ant" classes where only 3d printed robots compete, essentially.

The internals of a hexbug are not able to be used. They would be too weak, and also the transmitter would not meet the rules.

You can buy a cheap radio system, and viable drive motors and esc, for not much more than a hexbug though. Heck, even tearing apart some cheapo, but slightly nicer 2.4ghz rc cars, would be a better route.

I'm not sure the weight on this, but the wheels and drive would probably be good if they fit in the weight class, just replace the other electronics:

https://www.amazon.com/Air-Hogs-Indoor-Control-Vehicle/dp/B084BMXHLH

The dvd is available for pre-order on amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Robot-Wars-Brand-New-2016/dp/B01I3Q0NJA/

Oddly 300 minutes is the listed runtime. Yet its 6x 1hour episodes = 360 mins. So that feels wrong and so await better information.

FingerTech snaphubs will work on any motor with a 3mm D-shaft (or 4mm if you buy them bigger), which means you might be able to get away with using lower-cost N20 motors (expect to replace them frequently though). If low cost is paramount, I've had some success using these motors and wheels https://www.amazon.com/HONBAY-Plastic-Wheel-Motor-Arduino/dp/B071H2DT44?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2 on a one pound robot at 3S. Tons of vendors sell identical motors and wheels to this. Don't expect them to last forever, or for them to be seriously competitive compared to something like the FingerTech wheels. The motors are bulky and heavy and the wheels don't have much traction, but the price is unbeatable.

Here is a Photo of the screw and some ME 909 damage. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipO8LsHt9juJtbltENtaDYzrfKQEeuRxPPaZfs3Gb8m0OIisTFC0UeDkt92a5s6Ndw?key=SlA0R0RveXlSSEdQSlRRcFNlSkFUbDR1RFl6OHRR

On the H-Bridge you PWM the H-Bridge to have proportional control. That's ESC building 101. It's the way every ESC in fighting robots works.

Also welcome to the world of knockoffs: http://www.gearbest.com/arduino-scm-supplies/pp_437601.html?currency=GBP&vip=760169&gclid=CjwKEAiAoaXFBRCNhautiPvnqzoSJABzHd6hDYqnbpVp1S9EGn7WbhMyeGpjsTsLth8laPYRZ8SWyRoCn2bw_wcB (Plucked the first low priced one I saw)

Seeing the graphic on this is not an exploding Blacksmith gives me grief.

Guess this is the only online source for the video now?

Worth a shot: 808 keychain camera

edit: probably doesn't stream, sorry

http://www.stream2watch.cc/live-television/united-states/abc-live-stream

Got this from the Pre-Episode thread, use the tab below the feed and go to station 2, seems to be the most stable.

Hopefully wherever it is coming from isn't on this list.

https://www.onshape.com/products/free

https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview

I have heard good things about Onshape, and have also heard that Fusion 360 can be had for free as well if you're just a hobby user (which you will be). Both are cloud-based so you can run them with an internet connection rather than having a strong computer. The learning curve of 3d modeling is steep but worth it.

A continuous servo, that can go direct to the receiver? I’ve never heard of those. What might those look like? Because servos are more versatile and can be reused for other projects.

Yea I’m thinking 150-300g. Heavier if we are making it out of scrap, hot glue, and bigger parts.

I’ll look up those rulesets. I have a bunch of these kits and yellow motors. Hosyond Smart Robot Car Kit,2WD Remote Control Car Compatible with Arduino IDE with Tutorail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BR798NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XPJ2C6MFDT0ZZESEQMB8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I am rather new to all this and didn’t see any other weapons or choices that would be possible with just servos. I would love more ideas as I only care about stuff being dangerous. I could care less if they try to create a Mario kart bannana thrower as long as they create it. Failure is always an option fir engineering

This is your problem let me show you thisbattery I personally use it and it’s a fraction of the weight of your current battery

If I still had a VCR, I could record it with my capture card, but I'd have to go thrifting for a while to find a good enough one.

Alternatively, you can probably pick up a cheap svideo usb capture card (others are available) and record it (using OBS, throw that OEM software in the trash) from your own VCR.

These ESCs are really cheap and work well from my testing

Hey! Welcome to the world of BattleBots!

The 2018 season can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/BattleBots-Season-3/dp/B07D1M3YKS

However, with ABC owning the 2015 and 2016 seasons, I'm unsure if they ever released them on DVD or the like

While you can buy rc toys and salvage parts, it is a lot more effort, and you will usually not have "proportional" control unless you spend more - meaning the motors are just "on/off" and that makes it much harder to drive. It's also hard to find 3 channel toys, so you end up just with wedges. It can be done though.

2 Pack Remote Control Car, RC Stunt Cars for Boys 8-12, 4WD 2.4Ghz Double Sided 360° Rotating RC Car for Kids with Led Lights & 4 Rechargeable Battery,Yellow+Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GK9XTXG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_gl_i_VZ7A7ANRMS34M9X198XY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I used these to make some wedges. They are fun to drive against each other. You can remove all the car body stuff and then design whatever you want to replace it.

Duck uses (or at least used) a similar product to help isolate their drive motors from shock.

What they used looked more like this: https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell%C2%AE-Coupling-L35xD30-Flexible-Coupler/dp/B07G6PQMG9

Hey! Thanks for bugging me about this, I have put this off to the side... It's unfortunate, but I have some ADHD tendencies :(

HOWEVER, I have some good news: As I was posting about this on twitter I heard that there was interest in building an arena at heatsync labs in Mesa. I don't know if they also let the project fall to the way-side or what, but I hadn't heard anything from them since letting them see this thread and letting them know I was interested too. Here's the google group if you'd like to poke around there: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/heatsynclabs

Good luck! I may revisit this idea in the future.

EDIT Here's the specific thread: https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/heatsynclabs/9QAUCxv_-Rs

Before we start this Final fight for the Giant Nut, I'd like to thank our sponsor for this years bot, Nord VPN. Staying safe online is an ever growing difficulty and you could be exploited by hackers. NordVPN allows you to change your IP address, making you harder to track, securing your privacy. Check out the link in the description to get 20% off for the first two months and thank you to NordVPN for sponsoring this video.

Anyways, lets get back to the fight.

For smaller bots the process of molding high-quality rubber can get pretty crazy. I noticed the beetles at Norwalk you're referencing had very thin wheels, so I decided to see if I could make something similar.

Turns out you can get strips of tire rubber from Amazon pretty cheap ($11 was enough to make over a dozen wheels). Furthermore if you're careful with your settings and have sharp bits, it actually cuts really well on a CNC router. So I now have a set of pretty nice looking wheels for my next antweight. I'm still waiting on other parts to see how it comes together, but the wheels have great grip and seem exceptionally solid with enough flex that they should absorb most hits instead of tearing apart like foam wheels or shattering like plastic wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8NLESK/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Deep pockets not required. Cheap FlySky radios have telemetry and a wide range of cheap sensors -- individually or as a collection: https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-Telemetry-FS-CEV04-FS-CPD01-Transmitter/dp/B01FJX3DR4

I'm using some of these :

uxcell 300RPM 6V 0.45A High Torque Mini Electric DC Geared Motor for Robot DIY https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0080DOEQU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4SDEGXJH3X9BA315B0MB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The copper and gold are CC3D and the silver is TTYT3D, all printed with a Prusa Mini+. No complaints with any of them!

> build a bot as incredible as Minotaur in a country where they probably don’t have as much access to metal machining or similar tools

I don't want to be too harsh here but damn, people in Brazil aren't necessarily living in a jungle. Brazil has a highly competetive robot combat scene and Brazilian teams have competed internationally for years and won titles internationally.

Riobotz have been building and competing for nearly 20 years, initially as part of a university in Rio de Janeiro, and literally wrote the book on robot combat.

These aren't peasants scratching together a robot in a sweaty shed on the shores of the Amazon. These are highly-skilled engineers with the skills, resources, and crucially commitment to build some of the best fighting robots in the world in an industrialised nation.

I'm going to back out the set screws and just let them free spin for now but would you suggest bearings more like this?

uxcell F688ZZ Flanged Ball Bearing 8x16x5mm Shielded Chrome Steel Bearings 10pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z3F68H4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_KKB390ERS7P7YF5TJAWP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

These are the bearings I'm using, when I spin it by hand it stops immediately, so this is where the binding up is happening

S SYDIEN 4Pcs 8mm / 0.31" ID Pillow Block Flange Bearing Self-Alignment KFL08 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C4Y7P2C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_4W8K7QCD0E8NGN0PJ8NG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

"Damage is weakness leaving the bot"? I don't know what's under that. Ok, I do now. It's just copyright and all rights reversed text. No need to sound the klaxon!

I think that no matter what, safety should take first priority.

To me, that means doing the show sooner without an audience, rather than doing it much, much, much later with one. Six months is the soonest we'll have a vaccine, but the quickest a vaccine has ever been done before is actually four years. It is entirely possible that we're much more on that timeline, even with the full backing of the entire planet working on the problem.

Head Referee John Remar covered a lot of the thoughts on how the show could be done safely without an audience when he appeared on Behind the Bots last week, and it actually got me excited about the prospect. He has been with Battlebots since the beginning, and while he was definitely saddened that they were going to have to do the season without an audience, he was also excited by the changes it may bring to the show that could change the paradigm. He even ended by saying "the fans are always telling us to just get to the fights. This season we may end up doing just that."

There's always a fear of change when it comes to anything, and Covid has brought that fear into every corner of our lives, day after day. That does not mean that a fear of change is healthy or even reasonable. Let's give the crew at Battlebots, and the competitors themselves, our full support, no matter what may change to get this season on the air. They're gonna do it safely, and they're gonna have to do it differently. And that's okay. At the end of it, we'll still get to see giant robots smashing each other.

Thank you for this.

I had to roll my eyes pretty severely such that I might have hurt the part of my head that controls such things when I read the OP article. It reminded me of the article that made me stop reading hackaday: http://hackaday.com/2008/07/15/atmega88-webserver/ which basically said "hey, this cool thing uses some atmel chip, so let's replace it with another atmel chip so you can put it on an adruino." So frustrating.

But anyways, my first featherweight used a microcontroller and bluetooth internet of things before it was cool, so I could use a WiiMote to control it. That was when WiiMotes were hip, and with it. It definitely had advantages, like real-actual pairing and cryptographic protocols instead of whatever shady thing the Chinese knock-off knock-off receivers are doing, and could actually do failsafes correctly which at the time wasn't very well done in 2.4Ghz land. But it had a huge downside of being unreliable. Reliability is a big thing in what we do, so it's a big no-no to intentionally put something unreliable in your robot.

https://www.amazon.com/Battlebots-Trailer/dp/B09NV3NQGW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=362GN0IYMX315&keywords=battlebots+season+6&qid=1641407502&s=instant-video&sprefix=battlebots%2Cinstant-video%2C219&sr=1-1 Right there. :)

here's a link to the episode.

Battlebots

Here's the converter you should use.

Converter

Just simply copy the link of the battlebots episode to the converter box and change the format to mp4. Click Convert and download. I've already done it.

Feel free to take this comment down.

I run these cheap gearmotors (you can find equivalent from ebay, just search for "25mm gearmotor") with Bobotz 10A ESCs (think that this is the US distributer).

https://parsec.app/ this

basically all the people you want to play with installs it, make accounts then add each other, then one of you becomes host and the others connect to that pc, you then give them keyboard access then in ra2 set up teams and controls and play.

First of all, you didn't need to be so damn rude. That can be very hurtful.

Secondly, here's my Github and my Hackster if you want a peek into my works. There's more to come over the next few weeks.

Thirdly, I'm not some asshole who is doing this out of pure laziness or is workshy. I'm doing this as a means to keep myself busy until I'm ready to take on the world again, and quite frankly it's helping me. That is of course until something knocks me back and I have to start again.

Fourthly, I'm a part of this community and I love being part of it. I thought this was a genuine, caring, supportive community but for what I'm doing, pretty much everyone has blasted this to hell. Why am I even bothering?

I can see where you're coming from there, but the advice I receive from others is more or less for things I may not understand and/or where I'm going wrong. I'm not taking entire chunks of information and hiding it behind my Patreon, that's not fair. I was originally going to do Patron-exclusive tutorials but Patreon isn't a good writing format for that unless you do videos, and if I did, it'd have to be pretty damn good for people who are paying to see it.

Anything I give advice for, by myself, is through my own means of learning and not what someone else has said entirely. It's also that the advice can spur other ideas and show people how to do that.

A few examples are on what I posted on Hackster.io recently:

• A basic IoT web app controlling a set of lights using websockets
• Cannibalising an old PlayStation controller for a component.

These are examples of things I've done lately, and there's more content on the way that people will be able to learn from. I am not paid to do that, and Hackster does not give me money at all, nor does Github or anywhere else that has my open source content.

Here's what the donations aim to cover:

• Cost of components
• Cost of tools
• Cost of living expenses
• Time taken to write software and learning materials
• Time taken to research and refine projects

The patrons also get rewards for this stuff, i.e. processes, behind the scenes content, seeing projects before they're released etc., as I think the patrons deserve material only they're allowed to access as a reward for pledging.

Does this help? Is there anything else that you may find confusing?

Q:  Can Onshape run on Mac, Linux, Surface, iPad, Android, Chromebook, WinXP, Win7, Win8, Win10, iPhone?

A: Yes

https://www.onshape.com/faqs

Runs in a web browser on all computers (Chrome, Firefox, Safari; Windows, Mac, Linux).

Cut the XT60 connectors off your ESCs, connect all the ESCs red to red and black to black, then connect a female JST connector appropriately. It should look like this, no boards necessary. Don't modify the connector on the battery.

Your receiver is probably just powered by the BEC on the ESCs. If the connector has red white and black, it's got a BEC and will power the receiver.

FYI the mask is from Archie McPhee. You can also get it on Amazon. Not sure what days the final tapings are but you might be able to get them fast enough.

I know a guy at Archie McPhee and might possibly be able to help pull some strings to get some expedited to you in Vegas if you want. Feel free to DM me.

https://www.amazon.com/HEXBUG-BattleBots-Multiplayer-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B09BBQGF78/ref=sr\_1\_1?crid=TL83IEWTEPD&dchild=1&keywords=hexbug+battlebots&qid=1627609886&sprefix=hexbug+battle%2Caps%2C529&sr=8-1

this one i started testing but i dont know how durable it is

Do you think the fingertechs are significantly better than this dual ESC on amazon? Fingertechs are certainly a lot more expensive

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081LBL42J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WEJJ8TTAGZVCD96YFGH0

I got you: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0161CF1MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works like a charm.

Venom Fly 30C 2S 300mAh 7.4V LiPo Battery with JST and E-flite PH Plug x2 Pack Combo - Compare to E-flite EFLB2802S30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016ZM3CVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GTK6PT48M3EAD76N07FJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry for the long link, but these r what I'm running

Most likely something like this: https://www.amazon.com/High-Power-Meter-Remote-Control-Receiver/dp/B08DV3F21T It seems to be a generic 6 channel 2.4GHz board, "HD-6R-2.4G-2" which can apparently handle "6~15V" and according to Amazon a max amperage of 5A. (I thought that seemed optimistic so I looked up the motor driver IC's on the board, they seem to be "TA6586 " motor drivers, and according to their datasheet they can do 5A nominal and up to 7A, so good on the seller I guess?)

After reading all the comments here it seems that a BLDC motor will be very difficult (and dangerous) to drive off something like that, so I'll probably just stick to something like the DC worm drive motors UXCELL sells on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XZ39BGZ/

This is the exact vinyl we used.

In order to get the robot looking so smooth this year, we didn't directly wrap the UHMW. The UHMW has tooling marks, and is very difficult to wrap with that shape. Instead, we laser cut acrylic triangles. There were something like 80 unique shapes. Each triangle was wrapped in vinyl then adhered to the UHMW. This looked super super smooth. In addition, we were able to make each triangle slightly small, revealing that black edge of the UHMW beneath and making the robot look a bit wireframe. Lastly, the triangles are designed to come off on impact. The idea is that a triangle popping off doesn't look as damaged as super shiny vinyl that stays adhered, but gets torn to shreds.

As far as I can tell, it seems to be out of stock, whither this is because they are simply not for sale yet, or are completely sold out I don't know. I also noticed the Battlebots site seems to be selling the GBA game for the same price as the prototype? strange. One more random thing of note is an Amazon listing for the gamecube version with two reviews https://www.amazon.com/Battlebots-GameCube/dp/B00006JZDM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 also says out of stock. I wish they'd just remove the listings if it is no longer available for purchase.

Here is the amazon page for it. I am also running it at 16 volts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X3Z68GV?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

Keep in mind that it got torn in half on my last fight, so you may want to use a different connection design than I did to the arm.

Looks like the new arena is available on Amazon.. To me, it looks identical to the previous, but Witch Dr is replaced with Minotaur.

​

https://www.amazon.com/HEXBUG-BattleBots-Arena-Tombstone-Minotaur/dp/B07GL4KRSB

Buy it on Amazon for no commercials :D
https://www.amazon.com/Thats-What-you-Call-KO/dp/B07SWQLNST/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=battlebots+season+4&qid=1563069821&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I literally just use these for everything I do https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.logopit.thumbnailMaker https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.handycloset.android.eraser Remove.bg

Well, you could get a Viper kit once they're back in stock and stick one of these in it.

EDIT: Changed the second link to something that's still in production.

I haven't heard very good things about the Turnigy servos holding up to higher voltages. The best lower end servos are the "red case" ones you can find on ebay, amazon, or banggood under a half dozen different brand names. They generally hold up well to 11.1V. Something like this one. They red case servos are basically knock-off Savox brand servos - virtually the same components inside for about 40% of the cost.

I saw where it was made with taulman 910. Do you know if it needs an enclosure to print? My biggest issue with printing some of the more exotic materials is that my printer is not enclosed and I do not have time to build an entire enclosure before the match.

The bot is going to be a super simple wedge, do you think this would make it "more okay" to use PLA as the main chassis?

EDIT: Do you have any thoughts on those "carbon fiber PLA" spools like this

this stuff right here.

It’s magical my dude.

the online one is v 2.0, but if you click "look inside" on the book on the amazon page

https://www.amazon.com/RioBotz-Combat-Tutorial-Antonio-Meggiolaro/dp/1448697050

you'll see that one is v 2.2. maybe that one has the larger riobotz bots?

Buy a smaller bore (4mm) version and buy this tap. Will be cheaper than getting a custom part made.Greenlee DTAPM5C Combination Drill and Tap Bit, M5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041FIR8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6UhjBbM80PSVX

Also, if you own an Amazon Alexa-enabled device, check out the skill:
https://www.amazon.com/Matt-Leach-Robot-Combat-Events/dp/B07DW5N5M4/ref=sr_1_1

UHMW is a very popular material for frames. It's super tough and very easy to work with. It's not really super cheap, but it's not expensive either.

I got mine off of Amazon. There are other thicknesses available that may be more appropriate for your build. My .5" frame for Catalpa may have been a bit beefier than it needed to be, but it did survive.

I cut it to shape using a jig saw.

This stuff was recommended to me on the Facebook group. I have yet to try it though. https://www.amazon.com/Ammonia-Free-Liquid-Latex-Paint/dp/B007N79VOO/ref=sr_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1506201517&sr=8-5&keywords=liquid%2Blatex%2Bgreen&th=1

I've used 40A polyurethane casting rubber and it worked very well. You can coat a lot of wheels with one box. Also useful if you want to make your own wheels from scratch.

https://www.amazon.com/Brush-Brushable-Making-Urethane-Rubber/dp/B00ETB63HA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506141308&sr=8-1&keywords=smooth+on+polyurethane+40a

The SLA should be 12 volts. It's a standard size for lawnmowers.

https://www.amazon.com/UB1270-12V-7AH-SLA-BATTERY/dp/B0089N311K

Why do I get the feeling that you're trying to stick a car battery in that thing?

It's actually printed out of PLA.

Drive motors

Weapon motors

I think it can be deceptively damaging if there's enough power behind the sanding belt. Ever use one of these? Metal disappears surprisingly fast with them... Plastic and rubber (such as wheels) likely even faster.

Here you goI'd still recommend ordering from the main site, they may have important information that's not detailed or is better formatted on their own site.

Hold on to the Nextrox motors, they could still be useful for lifting.

If you are going to do some ant-weight stuff I highly recommend using Insta-morph plastic to make armor and parts. You heat the plastic to >150 F in hot water and then it molds like silly putty. Once it cools it is really resilient. I made a tube shaped piece to show my parents and my dad asked if it shatters. I told him I didn't think so because the plastic feels flexible. We ended up hitting it with a hammer a bunch of times and it maintained its tubular shape. I'm planning on making next year's Halloween costume out of it.

This stuff: http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447397224&sr=8-1&keywords=insta-morph

$137.94. (Based on the cheapest ones I saw at a glance, because you probably don't care about battery quality anyway if you're only running them for 3 minutes.)