Thanks for spreading the good word about RetroPie! It's a great project and makes setting up a retro gaming emulation system really easy.
Unfortunately, a lot of this advice is incorrect. Here are the corrections I noticed:
Everybody is bad-mouthing it but nobody is offering advice.
You can salvage this if you lay a piece of 3/8" over the top of the control board and undermount the joysticks. Then use some of these to undermount the joysticks. They will show through the top though, so get yourself some spray adhesive and some laminate/melamine to cover the top of it.
Secondly, the piece that your monitor is mounted to and that (what appears to be) an audio controller... Redo it and this time take your time and use measurements and a template.
Cardboard is your friend. Use it to template things with exact measurements. Use a ruler, a straight edge, and a nice pointy pencil.
You've got this!
The other question is: if I can legally use the ROMs, can I legally use the emulator itself?
For Mame, the response is no. Sadly Mame is not Open Source, precisely because it forbids commercial usage:
Ultimarc Servo-Stick is great, if you're running a PC it can automatically switch based on the game you selected or you can run it from a button to switch between modes. here's a video of mine in action and a better picture of the panel
If you're specifically opening an arcade bar and y'all didn't think of this, get another lawyer or more informed advisors. Game licensing sounds like it's a critical aspect of your business model.
1) Technically possible but violates most licenses.
2) No. A console game is not the same code and not purchased/licensed in the same manner as arcade titles.
Edit: "...cabinet with the console in it" Oops. Doubtful due to personal-use licensing restrictions.
3) Probably not shut down. Few entities have the authority to "shut down" a commercial business. Lawsuits OTOH...
Read all license agreements carefully or hire an expert to read them for you. For example, MAME license prohibits commercial use, including free play in a commercial establishment. Even if you were to obtain roms with a license which allowed you to play them, you would stiill be infringing on mame's license. http://mamedev.org/legal.html (source: /u/lehk)
Also consider searching for multi-cade amusement machines sold for commercial use.
Edit: And good luck with your business. Thanks for trying to keep some aspects of arcade games alive.
You can find ROMs that have been released into the public domain here: http://mamedev.org
You are allowed to raise money with MAME but only if you have the legal right to the ROMs being used for that purpose. Those from the above site should be okay.
The object of a project like MAME is always to get the best experience into the hands of the most people possible.
This is not the object of the MAME project.
MAME is strictly a non-profit project. Its main purpose is to be a reference to the inner workings of the emulated arcade machines. This is done both for educational purposes and for preservation purposes, in order to prevent many historical games from disappearing forever once the hardware they run on stops working. Of course, in order to preserve the games and demonstrate that the emulated behavior matches the original, you must also be able to actually play the games. This is considered a nice side effect, and is not MAME's primary focus.
You'll need to use the "autosave" functionality of MAME since the actual cab also lost scores when powered off. That also means you'll want a button that does a soft power down so MAME exits and saves properly.
I grabbed a cheap tower from my local microcenter. Ryzen 5, 8gb DDR4 and a 500gb m.2. I had a spare 780ti I wasn’t using so threw that in. Playfield is a cheapo 50” vizio 4k from Sam’s and the back glass is an older 1080p Samsung one of my sons didn’t use anymore. I’m also gonna order this for a DMD.
There’s plenty on amazon, here’s one similar to mine: Hilitand Coin Operated Timer Controller Board Multi Coin Acceptor Selector Slot for Arcade Game Mechanism Vending Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNK2XX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LVlfEb2D8F0RE
This is minimum of 10 pieces, and slightly smaller, but it says "1 pc for sample accepted" and it's cheaper :). Good luck!
Forgot the link!
Games up to about 2002/3 run fine. Though there are some games here and there that don't run great or at all. There is a compatibility list within the Official RetroPie documentation that will help finding what run and what doesn't.
>The reason is I do a YouTube series called Coin Wasters where I plug money into an Arcade game and see how much it will cost to beat.
Not to rain on your parade (idea).. but that doesn't sound like a great idea for a YouTube series. Most arcade games I would argue are skill based. Your skill in all the types of arcade games could vary drastically to someone like me. Simple example, I would say I'm alright at vertical shooting scrollers. I'm shit compared to people that play bullet hell games casually, I know they would destroy any older arcade game with a single credit.
My suggestion, if you aren't doing it already. Is to have a group of people play, like at least 4 people, and use the average to get a real idea. Also games change greatly depending on the number of players. Take TMNT for example. I find it much much easier with 2-4 players than going solo. Are you doing the game solo? Or are you doing it with 2-4 players?
Are you going to average the cost across the players? Going back to TMNT, that game has a limited number of health pickups, if one player hogs them of course they're going to use less coins.
Final note, most games have dip switches and a service menu to change the cost per credit, and a fair amount have difficulty options. This can also vastly change the cost per player to finish a game.
At this point I might as well watch a Let's Play video, rather than your video as I know whatever you pay could be very different than what I pay. If you're commentary isn't great, then I'm not really left with a reason to watch. Though that is just my opinion. This does sound like a good idea for a database site. Similar to how HowLongToBeat, where lots of players enter data and it shows people the averages based on few criteria of the play through.
A raspberry pi 3 will run just about anything on any of the consoles you mentioned. There are issues however, running some of the newer arcade games and consoles (N64 and later.) That being said, it would probably work just as well as your 10 year old system. Hell of a lot easier to get up and running too. Just start with RetroPie.
I bought the smallest momentary buttons I could find on eBay which happened to be these.
And the joystick was from Digi-Key, part# GH7453-ND.
Your performance will depend on the laptop specs but as long as it has a decent processor you should be able to run most things smoothly.
For controllers you can either buy usb adapters if you want to use original controllers or you can get a computer game pad, I would recommend Logitech. For MAME you can get USB fight sticks made for consoles and they usually have drivers for windows, at least the ones made by HORI usually do.
For hooking it up to the TV you're kind of limited. If your laptop doesn't have something like an S-Video output or your TV doesn't have a VGA input your only real option is to get a VGA to Composite/S-Video converter.
Front ends are kind of optional but if you want to hide everything you could try something like Hyperspin, it's kind of a pain to set up but it looks great once it is. There's also other front ends that support multiple emulators but I don't really have much experience with them, you would have to look around.
The body is 3/4" MDO (a.k.a. signboard) and the CP is 1/2" MDO.
The design is original; I just played around with a website meant for making small 3D printed things until I got a shape I liked, then translated that to inches when I cut it out: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jSMfKQzdihv-arcade-cabinet#/
I built my own bartop back in December and stuck a Raspberry Pi 3 into it.
I'm happy with it so far - it's well able to handle pretty much any of the games I've wanted to play on it (including various Cave shooters - which I only learned about thanks to this sub). If there are any particular titles you're interested in, let me know and I'll try to do some testing over the weekend.
So, I'd also recommend what /u/WookieeHoleRoll suggests. If it turns out that you end up swapping in a PC, you can re purpose the Raspberry Pi for something like this, for example.
since you're using a tv and not an arcade monitor, you may need to do something with an ir blaster if you want it to be automated.
since you're using a raspi, something like this might work: https://www.hackster.io/austin-stanton/creating-a-raspberry-pi-universal-remote-with-lirc-2fd581
It's not much better down here in what might as well be the Seattle of the South (Mobile, AL). A bunch of $899 Multicades and people who think their already beat-up Arcade 1-Ups are worth $200+.
This one just makes me laugh so hard.
We are trying this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KI67L2G/. First attempt was a little subtle for my liking after top coat was applied so may try a second attempt.
I didn't have any plans to follow, it was all done by me. I don't actually have any drawings or plans this project as I pretty much drew it up right onto the wood! Parts are pretty simple, old 19 inch dell monitors, red legend ferrari thrust master racing wheels and pedals, these coin door and buttons from Etsy : https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/977348311/custom-3d-printed-coin-door-replica-kit
Cheap "EG Starts" buttons and usb encoder from amazon, and an 8 in port extended as I used my laptop: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08HK3V4RH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_MP3Q6CQERBEDNRQ1R9CD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Marquees were home printed onto cricut adhesive vinyl, hand cut out and put on plexi. (Backlit by cabinet lights)
And vinyl came from amazon too.
Seems high, right? Amazon Link - PacMan
Any ideas how to go about finding someone to build a custom hyperspin setup? I found this website: https://www.homearcadesystems.com/
Try JST SM connectors. I bought a kit from amazon for under $10 here The housings do both male and female with the pins being the difference.
I picked up the mini version and it’s quite enjoyable, a bit annoying with the tiny stick, but my kids enjoy it quite a bit. Just be careful they (and you) may rage quit and throw it across the room, that’s the the biggest advantage the full size cab has over the handheld one :)
Arcade Classics - Q'Bert Retro Mini Arcade Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HHL1L6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U1DKFbPWABHX9
For Android currently and soon to be on iOS. I don't really know anything about MAME for now so maybe it's quite far for us to be able to go. Thank you!
Yeah, I was planning on adding marquees to the screen...but, haven't yet.
Similar to this...
The adapter and the extenders
You need to start using PPA's. Here is MESS/MAME in a PPA with Xenial support.
I use sudo apt-add-repository from the terminal, but you can do it from Synaptic as well...
Then sudo apt-get install mame
I tried both. GBS has several issues like screen tearing in fast horizontal scrolling games, it doesn’t save your configuration between power ups , and the worst is that I’m pretty sure it outputs at 480i, not 240p, but I can be wrong.
On the other hand, I use the GBS to connect a PC to a s-video monitor and it works decently for microcomputer emulation, because in this case I haven’t found a more cost effective solution.
Also the GBS is a plug and play device, you have to configure your Raspberry Pi to use the VGA 666 hat and then configure Retropie to use super resolutions. You can find the configuration files here: CRT configuration
Very nice job indeed, including the cabling!
A few things:
You could try setting the OS filesystem to read only after you've made all your configurations. It's not necessarily the most ideal way of accomplishing your goal since you'll need to do all your configuration up front but it will definitely keep people from altering your configuration files.
Setup a search on craigslist that hits what you are looking for. I recommend the following, change your location, modify as needed:
Get an ifttt account.
Create a recipe using your craigslist search.
Choose a desired method of update. ifttt could send you a message on your favorite social media or email, send you an sms, or lots of other ways. I have mine to send to my gmail.
Keep a budget in mind. Do you want a ready to go working machine? Does it need to be pristine, or a fixer-upper? How much repair are you ready and capable of doing?
> I modded the pots on the gunblade guns to a USB analog pad and will have it hooked up to a Hyperspin pc with a library of shooting games.
You are aware this is against the MAME licensing agreement, correct?
>Question for you. Can mame machine be used for coin op and be put out on route?
The short answer is not legally, no. The slightly longer answer can be found on the MAME legal questions page. Pretty much anything involving money and MAME is in violation of the license terms.
Well get on it! Actually, this listing brings up another question... How much did you spend on some of the really rare/sought after carts? Last time I found a Waku Waku 7 listed it was going for around 650$.
i really like it, it reminds me of late 80's arcade gaming. dark colors work really well for arcade machines. I want to give you some ideas!
please put in some side buttons! very easy to create 2 holes on the side, and then you can play proper pinball! Future Pinball is very easy to use, and a lot of replicas of real tables are on the site (or other sites) as free downloads. it is super fun, and i found it to be acceptably realistic with even a low powered graphics card. Have fun, it's great having your own arcade!
I was PM'd a question about plans so I've included the response here for anyone that might stumble across this post and have similar.
Yeah planning is key really. I spent a lot of time just thinking about it. How I would assemble the parts the order in which I would do it, assemble first and then paint or paint and then assemble. I didn't bother with Sketchup or any kind of CAD. I am a graphic designer so I just used the tool I could work quickest in which was Illustrator. The front plan isn't so important because it's just straight parts as wide as you need so i spent time just laying out positioning on the side. You can see how I modified the plans here. https://www.wetransfer.com/downloads/a3c31aba4f4534618e9137f8cd48bb3920160830102757/f5b20be7fdf775fd286e93f65a187d5420160830102757/a8c536
Another key part was designing my cuts, the local DIY store would cut the straights for free so I gave them the dims and they handled it. The rest I did using a jigsaw. I used 18mm MDF
The order I built was.
• Straight cuts
• Jigsaw cuts
• Router mm T-Mold slot
• Sanding (240grit +)
• Sanding (It's important to get the surface smooth for paint or vinyl)
• Sanding (Keep sanding)
• Matt black vinyl covering (I spent a week trying to paint, don't paint! It looks pretty bad IMO unless you get a professional spray job) Vinyl went on quickly and evenly.
• Fix together (This is the order I did it)
- Base and sides
- Back brace
- CP base
- Top panel (marquee top)
- marquee bottom
- Monitor support
Hope this helps
Nice. I got the 43 inch as well. 4 player classic Arcade style like you. I agree the company is shit, but it does come together fairly well when done. I would never buy from them again, however. Too much shoddy work, and very poor job with wood and no directions. You are essentially on your own.
I have a 8tb hyperspin setup and have a hard time trying to setup my usb encoders. i have the 4 player cabinet.
Also, for those front holes, i suggest getting this to put them in the front holes. I got two and they are clean and super convenient to plug up controllers or flash drives if needed.
These types of wires are not meant to be soldered, best method is crimping. This looks like it might be the right setup for you, but there's a few different sizes of these kinds of connectors so it's hard to be 100% sure:
I ordered and received the RGB Controller. Love the arcade and the artist did an incredible job. The software isn't the challenge as this isn't my first arcade, but I have found it overly difficult to find a computer with a spare molex adapter. I bought the power supply Wayne suggested and ordered a bridge adapter with on/off to avoid the inconvenience of managing the on/off. Wayne really tries to scare you not to power with 12v or your void everything. Almost feels like a trap.
I bought an Alienware R11 that has a spare PCIE and ordered a PCIE and Sata to female molex adapters to see if I can get one to work.
This is the bridge with switch referenced above. I use a coin door that I open to power on the PC and plan to attach the bridge adapter switch to make it easy to power on the RGB.
Not the person you’re asking but I’ve got a huge Bose home theater sub in my cabinet just because it was free from a relative. It is amazing and I highly recommend it. Never had an issue with it shaking things loose. I use it in conjunction with these $25 car speakers hooked up to a 2.1 stereo receiver and it allows me to use my cabinet as a jukebox too.
I went with this one because I wanted a 3 incher for Golden Tee
Great work! Super impressive. I have a question about the toggle switch on the back. It looks similar to this one and was wondering how hard it was to wire. I saw a few reviews about it potentially being a fire risk and was wondering if you had any qualms when installing it.
Those connectors are crimped on the wire, so you can't really reuse them. However, you don't need a new set of wires, you can get a crimping terminal kit (which comes in very handy when building arcade cabinets) and just add the connectors to your existing wires.
The side art I actually printed at Costco on a poster sized print (20x30). I sprayed it with a sealant to protect it from running and fading, cut it, and used a max strength spray adhesive to mount it. I've found that you have to really coat it on (about 4 layers) to prevent edge peeling.
The light behind the marquee is off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ET6D8E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I wanted an LED solution but I couldn't find one small and cheap enough. To get the light looking brighter and even across the marquee, I surrounded the light enclosure with reflective foil tape.
Hope this helps!
I think you're on track! I used to buy the encoder separately from all the buttons and joysticks, but now there are a lot of options for bundles. I just finished my first bartop (my 4th machine overall). That was also my first pi. That pi bundle came with usb controllers, so that's what I used in that cab for now. May switch out later.
I'm building a small console machine now, and this is what I bought off Amazon. The little easy-get kits, with the zero-delay usb encoders. I've used the zero delay encoders before, and they are a great cheap alternative to the $30/$40 encoders.
The 4.3mm and 6.8mm reference, was that in reference to the dimensions of the cherry switch? That is too large to be in reference to "how far button travels before triggering the switch".
Sometimes there is also a measurement on how much presssure takes to activate the switch. This amount of pressure can make it feel more/less realistic to an original arcade machine. My unskilled fingers cannot tell the difference...
The 8bitdo n30 is the only other stick I know of for the switch but seems to be more difficult to customize. The HRAP is available on Amazon Canada. If you want to just build a stick I'm not really sure what the options are. Do any pcb makers have switch parts available yet?
HORI Nintendo Switch Real Arcade Pro V Hayabusa Fight Stick https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N4P40LG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7nsBAbTRN4HM1
The joysticks are Suzo Happ 8-way Ultimate units. I bought a bundle on Amazon that included the joysticks and most of the main buttons, and I supplemented it. I'll be using the other two joysticks to build stand-alone player 3 and 4 controllers.
I bought it off Amazon, and then purchased the cheapest tablet I could find to act as a dedicated source for it... It's great for streaming old 80's music videos while listening to the music on the jukebox...
I bought it off Amazon, and then purchased the cheapest tablet I could find to act as a dedicated source for it... It's great for streaming old 80's music videos while listening to the music on the jukebox...
When using a PC, you can probably just wire a power button to the power switch pins on the computer's motherboard. Something like this.
And just mount it wherever is most convenient for you on the cab.
I think the only game with a track ball and more than three buttons is Golden Tee. FYI, you can do an advanced game search here. Hit additional filters and you can filter by any inputs that you like. If you only want 0-1 button games, with a buttons for start and coins, you get some good ones (Centipede, Darts, Marble Madness, Simpsons Bowling), but there are a whole lot more that use 2-3 buttons (Shuuz [GREAT!], Missile Command, Crystal Castles, some Golden Tees).
That being said, you don't need to map any buttons at all to your track ball. I am assuming that whatever you have just maps left, center, and right, mouse clicks. With MAME, you can map any buttons to the game, you don't have to use the ones on your track ball. You can hack an old keyboard or buy a $10 board to map a number of buttons to keys.
It is this dell one, https://www.amazon.com/Dell-2007FP-Ultrasharp-1600x1200-Height-Adjustable/dp/B000UVDONY it’s wayyy overpriced on Amazon and you can find it for sub 100 or even 75 on different sites. It’s been a perfectly good square monitor for me, 1600 x 1200 and works great for the aftermarket bracket I used!
Edit: It’s also 4:3
There is a link in that youtube video but I was afraid of linking it directly to this post. It's for android currently and we'll make another one for iOS soon. Thanks!
It's the Easyget USB controller in this kit:
I made one based on this design using a coil out of a $5 Goodwill TV, a spare Happ button, a lamp cord, and some electrical tape. I omitted the light bulb (because I don't make good decisions), and the coil getting painfully hot has the added benefit of keeping me from hitting a monitor for too long, so I consider it a feature. It looks like hell, but works every bit as well as this guy.
What /u/sigmaseven said.
As for drilling new ones, you can use a hole saw with a drill. Most hole saws do wood and metal.
I don't have this one in particular but I'm tempted to buy it myself: 1 1/8" hole saw
This worked good for me as I didn’t have access to an actual drill press. Made clean straight holes using fornster bits with it
just for additional info I actually went with this subwoofer as a replacement just in case you are also looking for suggestions or anyone else stumbles upon this thread in the future:
the specs I believe are almost identical to the original one, it's not overly expensive, and it fits PERFECTLY in the original spot. The original screws/holes lined up and everything
One blinky key.
You may need 2 LED controllers depending on how many buttons you have, because each button requires 3 inputs. One each for red, green, blue, and each controller has 32 inputs. So... about 10 buttons per controller if you're using RGB. If you're using a single color, then you have 32.
I use these for the controller inputs since the ipac is a keyboard encoder. All the button prompts in PC games would be keys.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RNQLMJR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 However, you can use anything you'd like.
Led Blinky does all the lighting. Launchbox has an option for it for attract mode, and as you scroll through the list it will show each games proper controls (and colored buttons). Blinky has a config file that has a lot of community made color maps for games. It's kinda hit or miss since people use different LED setups. Those Ice 2 buttons are simply amazing in person. Unfortunately, you probably will have to program many games yourself. It's really simple, but doing a lot of them is a chore.
ahh so if I wanted to get something that could play Tetris, all I would have to do is buy something like this and then switch out the board?
currently this is the what board inside the machine looks like
I know lots of these have bad emulation, but at the end of the day I am a Tetris feen, and if im gonna have one of these machines in my house it better play Tetris lol
I use a stream deck mini to do exactly this, but it is a little pricey.
I have programmed it to have buttons for save state, load state, exit, shutdown, restart etc.
It's not limited by the number of buttons either, if you need more buttons you can add a second page and program one of the buttons to scroll between pages.
(easy with tubular lock pick)[https://www.amazon.com/7Pin-Tubular-Solid-Steel-Set/dp/B0B4DH7PYX/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=52816918781&gclid=Cj0KCQjwof6WBhD4ARIsAOi65aivwDExrzLgYyRbEHlmi_oplUidsugZkOy6qXV929Tl2GHWG0RFUdgaAltcEALw_wcB&hvadid=409977027346&hvdev=m&hvl...]
The plan is to run a switch and Xbox series s, also plan on using emulators on the Xbox.
I used this wheel as it's compatible with both systems.
Not off hand… got a pile of them. Can’t remember what size spade connector and gauge wire, which would dictate which crimper. Also, lots of mine are generic. Not sure I could tell you where to find them.
Don’t need anything fancy. A quick check on Amazon turned up this…
Again, not remembering the spade size… so double check that it matches.
On the last build I made, I used something similar to this by plugging those into the cpu & drilling holes in the front of the CP, caulked the small gaps, then sanded, painted to clean it up.
The cab was a dedicated single player cab that I ended up giving to my brother, but wanted to give him some more flexibility so he could play multiplayer with his kids- so I needed a clean way to give him a player 2 (& 3 if need be). So it’s a single joystick setup with two usb female on the front for when they want to play multiplayer games (if two controllers are using the usbs on boot, they default as players 1,2 for purposes of 1v1 games).
If interested I can send you a pic.
Asus makes a 16:10 24-inch that while designed for color reproduction/ photographic/ design applications specifically works fantastically. The problem is they are not cheap.
I went with these instead. Holds drinks, keeps it away from the arcade, and lets us keep track of who's won the most games, which is a bonus.
The ones on the right are Arcade 1up stools. One is an MK and the other is the MvC one. Honestly they are not comfortable but the designs are great.
The red ones are on Amazon and were easy to put together and very comfortable
Here you go. They have a bunch of different colors and sizes.
Diamond Plate Vinyl Tape, with Self-Adhesive (Blue, 4 inch x 25 ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0776LDGKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_8E4XN3ZV540NBRSDH93K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
heres an updated one https://www.amazon.com/Antislip-Momentary-Electric-Switch-Footswitch/dp/B073JMJS6D/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1IL6YJF5TQE25&keywords=metal+foot+pedal+switch&qid=1651896292&sprefix=metal+foot+pedal+switch%2Caps%2C84&sr=8-5
You can get Sata to molex adapter.
I think the adhesive should be good-- it worked with my vinyl wrapped control panel but it is coming up in a few spots from contact... There is 3M primer 94 made for wraps but not sure if its just for metal/plastic or works on painted/sealed wood.
Yeah GT Fore is 25khz EGA medium resolution, with a dipswitch to change it to 15khz CGA standard res. You MIGHT have luck getting it to work by just changing that switch on the pcb, but it'll look crappy on an LCD.
You need the GBS 8200 (shop around for the best price) to make it work the way you'd expect. I've gotten decent results when I did an LCD swap for a friend. You can modify the board now to enable upscaling and better quality but I haven't gone down that wormhole yet. Good luck!
Not sure if you're aware, but you can use a trim router with a slot bit to cut the slot perfectly.
Yep something like this https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Converter-Adapter-Splitter-Compatable/dp/B084RN22MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=3OXKBSHB6LQD3&keywords=hdmi+audio+video+splitter&qid=1649150277&sprefix=hdmi+audio+video%2Caps%2C285&sr=8-5
You are much better off getting a cheap PC with Windows. Set up Retroarch. Buy and set up BigBox. You'll have better emulation and presentation (front end).
This can help you find bad components or cold support joints.
MAX Professional 7777 Blow Off Freeze Spray Electronic Component Cooler, FR-777-777 (10 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z99ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_66WP3BQW7KMBE8B7ZV85
Thunderstick makes one for the A1U that has a mounting plate - you could probably either mount it directly at the edge, or if not, build a small enclosure for it. I'm not aware of any that are standalone TBH.
Very cool! For me the button wiring was a headache all that wire stripping and twisting.
This is on retropie. I installed a switch in the back that I flick on, from there everything fires up. I plug a standard pc could into the switch and that is wired up to a surge protector which is what everything is plugged into. So it does pretty much what you are describing. So far so good. I used this - URBEST Male Power Socket 10A 250V... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNMT3WL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Amazon has refurbished PC's for under $250 and if you want you can get a warranty for $30. I bought this one for my MAME cab. I also put in a better graphics card (under $100)
I got it on amazon. I don't know much about speakers so I just got a cheap one. The first one I had made some strange noise so I got this one. So far it's great.
Wait, HDMI to HDI 2?
OK, you mean one HDMI is normal, and the other is what, the Display port?
This right? Because like I said, I want Mame running on one monitor, and for example, my movies on another.
Please help me dude, I get one answer and ppl never come back.
The monitor is HDMI, so what about this?
Then I can play MAME and also watch my big screen at the same time by using the settings in the name UI? Because the monitor I want to use I already bought its own external speakers.
Is bad idea due to moister in the compressor.
So, you have a couple options. I went with the first type because I wanted to wedge it a bit into the gap/crevice. But option 2 works just as well really and is simpler cause it's just a perfect square shape and probably should butt up against your tv without much adjusting.
^ this. And in the case of a four pin switch, which include the leads for an LED, you don't need a volt meter to test which two are for the switch itself. There isn't enough voltage to feel let alone shock you, just test pairs until you know which ones do the thing that does the do. Then you can solder and run something like thisthe front of your case. Easy and it looks good.
Will they be sharing the same screen? If so then you do need a KVM instead of just a USB switch. Note: a hub will not work.
I'm not sure what the ipad will do in this situation, and I'm not sure how reliable a bluetooth adapter going on and off each time you switch would work.
This is more of what I think you are looking for:
This is a 4 devices kvm which will cover your 3. This also has an external plug in button switch so you can place the device anywhere.
This is the bezel I used. There is a Raspberry Pi 3+ running in Kiosk mode mounted to the back of the TV that the bezel is plugged into.
For anyone looking into a lightgun, I can't recommend Sinden enough. The videos from Titchgamer on YouTube and the Sinden Discord are invaluable.
Just finished applying some graphics to the gun case I got for it. Left some room for a Sinden Lightgun sticker if one every pops up for sale. The case is perfect for one gun. However, I didn't like the pressure 2 layers of honeycomb foam gave, but hacking away with a razor got the job done on the inside. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013RD6OG
Hmm I am using the Jamma version will a normal power supply work.
For now, I managed to find this item.
It converts 12v to 5v with 3amp. I will see if this works.
I drilled three holes from the inside of the cabinet as well as through the sides of the holsters. Fed a screw through and put a nut on the other side. Holds them really well.
I can't recall now where I got the cable covers. Someone posted instructions on a forum from 2012 on how to convert time crisis guns to using aimtrak but I can't find the post now. In it they had a parts list and that's where I found it. They're pretty common. These are essentially the same thing but in white.
Or do you mean the cover at the base where it feeds into the cabinet. Those came with the used time crisis guns and from the original cabinet.
I just have exit and a volume knob. You can either wire a volume knob with a potentiometer, or you can use one of the USB rotary encoders that spin forever in either direction but interface directly with windows to set the volume up and down (and click in to mute).
I did the potentiometer once but it was annoying and soldering speaker wire can be very sensitive. In all of my other builds I just use this rotary encoder (strip it out and mount it yourself): https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Lossless-Computer-Controller-Adjuster/dp/B01MV411BR/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=OQOATNC2SEP6&keywords=usb+rotary+volume&qid=1645654094&s=electronics&sprefix=usb+rotary+volume%2Celectronics%2C39&sr=1-2
I'm in the UK and used the following from Amazon. I'm a complete noob when it comes to routing but this did the job for me 😎
1/16 router bithttps://www.amazon.co.uk/Bestgle-Adjustable-Cutter-Router-Woodworking/dp/B0815XYWMG/ref=asc_df_B0815XYWMG/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=394344100493&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7406070785556332779&hvpone=&hvptwo=&am...
I used these:
Whiteside 6700A Slotting Cutter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7JEXIT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Whiteside Router Bits A200B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012JI6M2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
In a trim router
I don’t know the mechanism on the actual cabinet but you could use a microswitch like this inside of the holster. It would be in the pressed position when the gun is inside and in the off position when the gun is removed. You would just have to wire it correctly for the game.
I gave up, I wasn't able to get it working. Any solution would take probably a lot of custom coding, so I'm just going to go the hardware route for volume control. The spinner I got was this one off Amazon, and it is fantastic.
GRS Push & Pull Arcade Spinner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DNYJB68/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_643HP4BG4VBP24312ZDK