What are /r/watercooling's favorite Products & Services?

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Get mechanical grade alcohol, 99%, get it in the pressurized spray can, and regular bottle. Disassemble the GPU and get any parts that got coolant on them out of the system.

Get a clean plastic container that can fit the parts you've gotten wet. Put the alcohol in there from the non pressurized n bottle. Place parts in bath of alcohol, use the pressurized alcohol and qtips to clean your parts. Once done, let dry for at least 48 hours in front of a fan.

I've recovered an entire x99 system this way. Good luck.

Edit

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/

Spray

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8PL1Q

That's about what it cost me and then I found this rc car rad that would have been awesome to keep the build a small form factor

https://www.amazon.com/Dancing-Wings-Hobby-Self-Circulation-Liquid-cooled/dp/B07DFD7PMT/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1545510527&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=rc+radiators&dpPl=1&dpID=41lXHK0EvXL&ref=plSrch

cable sleeving. small screwdriver to depin it. slide some sleeving and heat shrink on and put plug back.

25ft - 1/4 inch Flexo PET Expandable Braided Sleeving - Black - Alex Tech Braided Cable Sleeve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JH14WZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_djQfDbWKGYCQE

Ginsco 270Pcs 3:1 Shrink Ratio Dual Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing Tube 6 Size 2 Color KIT Black Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073R69KNB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ikQfDbA65Q9JW

There's a lot of diy to it, but this is the screen I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078N8SHHQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You have to make the mount yourself. Then you just route an hdmi cable out to your gpu i/o as cleanly as possible, and a usb cord (for power) out to the motherboard i/o as cleanly as possible. It will act as a second monitor. Then you just have to make a rainmeter skin with the hwinfo64 plugin to display whatever sensor value from hwinfo64 you want.

Did you have a solid silicon tube inside when you bent it?

Edits: also using an aluminium jig to bend around helps a lot too. Free bending can be very tough, learning curve. A set of them can be pretty inexpensive these days

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Cooling-Bending-CL-W093-AL00BL/dp/B01BX3EZUI

This isn’t exactly cheap, but there’s a lot of other options out there

For future reference my friend told me about this product which rocks! It’ll clean all of those excess thermal paste around the chip.

ArctiClean 60ml Kit 1 & 2 Thermal Grease Paste Compound Remover and Purifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JYQ9TM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PCKZ575N4JFZD2AST14X

That’s a bingo. Corsair 14mm Satin Hardline. I accidentally ordered it when I did my build. Was pretty happy when I saw it all together.

Nothing to regret -- as I said, temporary. Leak testing and trying different colors.

I have some blue Corsair coolant on the way, as well as this: https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-SysPrep-Cooling-Loop-Pre-Treatment/dp/B00AQKHIN6. Should be here tommorow as well as a fitting to make it easier to drain for maintenance.

:)

Thanks for the advice though!

This is ridiculous, I got screwed twice by Alphacool and now EK. Can you fucks just sell the product you promised?

I think I may grab some of this copper stock and use thermal paste on the block and a thermal pad against the chokes. A 5mm thermal pad is next to useless.

Nah it's this one from Amazon it will not match the screw holes and will be crooked. So I just put a piece of petg tubing to prop the card that I saw someone did before.

I would suggest against red if OP ever wants to be able to open it up for any reason later.

Purple, low strength is all you need.

Loctite 555339 222 Purple Low Strength Thread Locker Tube, 6-milliliter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kthJBbJMXE9NM

Had same issue so if I use PETG tubing I always make sure to use the little tubing inserts that EKWB sells

EKWB EK-HD PETG Insert, 12/16mm, 10-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SLY63RW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JYYB2MFAFGB7T8BCKDHW

Thanks. This is what I got: Liitrton Mobile CPU Stand Adjustable Computer Tower Stand with 4 Caster Wheels Fits Most PC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083DMYKC9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G8C9W7XV7G0PX50HM4YY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap Harbor Freight version - here

High end Proxon version - here

You could try a plastic polish and see if that helps. Something like this, though I don't recommend using the "heavy" scratch remover as these scratches don't look that deep.

For context, the heavy scratch remover is very gritty and while it removes heavier scratches, it also creates finer scratches, which, in theory are meant to be removed by the "fine" scratch remover -- but in my experience, it doesn't always work.

tl;dr: I'd try the "fine" scratch remover first and see how that goes. I'm sure there are plenty of YouTube videos on how to properly use it.

Bought the marble vinyl off amazon here + measure & cut :)

https://www.amazon.com/BXQINLENX-Aluminum-Exchanger-Radiator-Computer/dp/B01D82BG1S

Just make sure to use a static pressure optimized fan as it is a fairly dense one. Screw threading should be M3.

Like I said just rinse it well, worst case scenario you run a leak test and it fails; Tell Amazon, they take it back no hassle.

Removing the air cooler does not void an EVGA gpu warranty, unless you break it during that action. If the card needs to be RMA'd you just put the air cooler back on. Warranty Terms

I use this to power two D5 pumps.

I use this to power four 200mm fans.

I have a MORA3 and run multiple PCs on the same loop so I liked having one set of pumps/fans not reliant on a pc.

fear not! You can buy a pcie 4.0 riser cable from amazon and swap it with 3.0 cable that comes with the EKWB mount :D

I personally used this one in my build: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XN26DRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_glt_fabc_VZKH3WBJSHJE35ET4W9A

Thanks so much - For the sensor panel I wound up going with a 5.5 OLED screen because of how black it can get without backlight. Because it's OLED, it's a little more than what I've seen usually recommended on YouTube, etc. but the payoff was worth it IMO. I got this one off Amazon.

Plain unflavored white vinegar like this and brand doesn't really matter. You can get the cheapest of all and it would still do the same.

I can actually speak from experience here. I was using a Zotac ArcticStorm 1080, which has an aluminum block (which I was unaware if at the time).

I used Utopia and over time I noticed a white buildup developing in the block. When I drained and checked the loop there was this white sediment left in the GPU block, just the GPU block however. CPU block was cleajn.

It prevents corrosion, yes. A system with aluminum and copper will cause this white sediment - it is the Utopia solidifying to stop the block from corroding

I'll update with the pics I have in a sec

Edit: here we are

Oh you're misunderstanding. Got it. He's talking about running a saltwater aquarium chiller as an external radiator. Something similar to this

As the others said, setting the radiator fans according to the water temp is the ideal solution.
CPU temp spikes very fast and goes down very fast, the temp change in the water is much more sluggish.

However, if you don't have a temp sensor header and don't want/can't buy something like the Aqua-Computer Quadro/Octo:
Use FanControl.

Is has basically the same extensive controlling options like the Quadro/Octo without the hardware. You could set up a sensor that mixes the temps of CPU and GPU. You can also add hysteresis to avoid that the fans are constantly spinning up & down due to sudden temp changes of CPU and GPU.
The result should be similar to controlling the radiator fans based on actual water temp.

If and ONLY if this is an all metal block, there is a thing called an impact driver. You basically hit it with a hammer and the result force and twisting will get screws out very effectively. I would make sure you get a good bit that fits in there well. Also exercise extreme caution, you are hammering on it. Don’t feel like you need to whale on it though.

Flexible coolant pipe. Does not really work for crazy angles but helps with multiple bends and estimating the length of the tube needed. It’s also g1/4 threaded. Works great for the most part.

Utoolmart Flexible Coolant Pipe,G1/4 Thread Flat Nozzle Flexible Water Oil Coolant Pipe Hose 400mm Length 2Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZNX1TZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ABVY12DBTF47W6QJ8G3M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I am using this LED Strip. The Thingiverse link has the current STL file and the whole process. If you have a printer (or know someone that does), it took me about 20 minutes to print and about 30 minutes to wire up.

I take for granted that I have a 3D printer and am comfortable with a soldering iron. I hadn't considered selling them until just now. However, If people are really interested then once I have a "final" version I am sure I can find a way to get the printed parts, everything as a kit, or even assembled units in to peoples hands.

Good to know about the acrylic being the same on both the AMD and Intel blocks, that means - in theory - this could work for both versions! I am a little dubious since the Intel mounting plate is so much smaller as there could be some interference from the mounting screws, but without a block to test or real life dimensions I can't know for sure.

I would stay away from watercooling your ssd. If the controller gets too cool the performance will diminish just like when it gets too hot. I might suggest this m.2 heatsink with a built in fan from Amazon. I got it and have load temps in the 50s.

M.2 Heatsink w/ fan

Amazon.com: Bykski RBW Acrylic Distro Distribution Plate Waterway Boards with DDC Pump for Computer Tt Core P5 Water Cooling Case: Computers & Accessories

If you can fit a NH-D15, you probably won't do much better. It's about the best air cooler on the planet, better than quite a few AIOs, and zero chance of leaks.

Buy an air pressure tester: https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-3831109816738-EK-Leak-Tester/dp/B07WGDW2K5, and use that before filling your loop.

When you receive the product, always tighten and check each connection in the loop yourself.

Then, use a bypass (something like this: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-atx-bridging-plug-24-pin), or just jump it yourself, to allow you to turn on just the watercooling components without turning on the pc. Put paper towels under each connection, and make sure that it doesn't leak after 24 hours.

Afterwards, make sure you have some sort of way to monitor the water and block temperatures. You can get a cheap temperature sensor (make sure to drain the loop before you put it on), or something like that.

I bought this kit from XSPC on amazon and put it together over the weekend, so far no complaints, everything is very solid and temps are great. Would recommend especially for the price

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072N1HWZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_4yoSwzFiHQm7c

BARROW is the way to go for cheap fittings. For starters they sell on amazon, so you get it fast. No waiting like on newegg or PC specific sites for processing times. Second, there cheap but good quality. Now i'm mainly talking about fittings here. In my opinion the crem de la creme is EK. They make the best compression fittings, again, in my opinion. But alot of people agree. Bitspower makes pretty good fittings too but I prefer EK because you get that satisfying "pop" feel when you know the tubes in that I just dont feel with others. But EK and Bitspower are a little pricey.

Are you doing Hard tube or soft. Its your first time so im assuming soft tubing as its easier. However I jumped right into hard tubing. Its just a little more learning and trial and error learning how to make bends not look like crap. Buy more tubing than you think you need. Oh and you REALLY could benefit from one of those kits. They help alot when your new. The chamfer tool will save your ass trying to fit hard-tubes into fittings especially ones like Bitspower crystal links. It not only helps the slide in, but also keeps the o-rings from getting scratched. And its comes with the silicone insert and it comes with the bending guides. I like thermaltakes because its on Amazon, and its cheap, and it arrives fast. link here https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Cooling-Bending-CL-W093-AL00BL/dp/B01BX3EZUI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531940034&sr=8-3&keywords=thermaltake+tube+kit

EK makes the BEST blocks. Period. The amount of people that return a EK block with complaints is a VERY small list. For pumps do a little research, you cant go wrong with a good D5. But a DDC is good in certain situations. For res, get whatever res you like the look of. For loop order, do it whatever you like the look of as well.

I use this barrow one and it has been reliable for me so far.

Fittings have two measurements: thread size and tube size.

The thread size is for side that screws into the various components. Almost all parts you will buy and fittings for them will be G1/4". As long as it's G1/4" you're good.

The other measurement is your tube size. You might see inner-diameter (ID) and outer-diameter (OD) sizes.

For soft tubing you need to match the tube diameters to your fittings. So for example if you bought these fittings, they're listed as G1/4" to 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD. So you would need soft tubing that has 1/2" inner diameter, and 3/4" outer diameter. This is so that your tube will fit with the barb of the fitting as well as the compression collar that goes over it.

For hard tubing you just need to know the outer diameter, as there's nothing on the inside for it to attach to, just the outer collar. But also note that there are different fittings for soft vs hard tubing. They are not interchangeable.

Check out the Aquacomputer Quadro

It will take inputs from temp sensors, flow sensors, pwm fans, etc and control your pwm pump and pwm fans. Great little device for a amazing price.

Here's my Aquasuite HUD.

Looking at the pictures for the hydro copper and the backplate, it looks like it should be the case.

Should be a reference pcb.

Well, it won't match up. Hydro copper has a wider inlet outlet block than the ek.

Evga sells hydro copper blocks for the 980 though. It's costlier but it'll keep compatability and it lights up.

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=400-CU-G980-B1

The Predator 280 has the dimensions: 335 x 142 x 68mm (L x W x H)

240 should be less than 300 long.

Predators can't be mounted at the bottom, at least that is what EK is writing in the manual. Guess that is because of the small res and the risk, that the pump might suck in air.

Take a look at my last G5 mod: http://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/dschijns-2nd-g5-mod-dust-free-finished.102955/

There is a new hwinfo beta which is compatible with aquasuite x.45.

The quadro firmware is not revertable, that means we need to wait for aida64 to implement the new aquasuit sdk. I got the same problem, i got no monitoring for my mo-ra setup now :/

Edit: here is a link to the working hwinfo version.

Pictures|/u/ObsidianRaid|Project Ares|April 2018|Core P5/P7|Thermaltake

Sure is. I ordered right from EVGA's website. $89.99, I believe. I figured the best route was to cut the middle man in case of any issues.

The cables are a little stiff until you work them for a bit, so keep that in mind.

Edit for link: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-CW-1300-B9

I have the EVGA white cables (these guys... http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-CW-1300-B9 ) and they're white. The picture on their website does make them look a little off.

From my experience, the EVGA braided cables are skinny, so using a normal cable comb won't work. Just a FYI.

Thanks! I found that tip from lifehacker where it said the dish soap would acts as a surfactant and can help you get rid of bubbles in your loop. But I think adding too many chemicals in the loop feels like it will only add so many variables and unnecessary complications.

>> https://lifehacker.com/5940236/a-beginners-guide-to-water-cooling-your-computer

I’d guess no because they’re a custom USB device, not a standard fan header. So I dug in a bit: it uses LibreHardwareMonitor to control the fans via motherboard drivers. This sort of device isn’t listed

Seems extremely unlikely

I’d check, but my rig is torn down while I redo some bends and add some misc finishing touches

No, it says 14 mm outer diameter, so you are going to need 14mm tubing.

I see some 14 mm tubing from barrow on the same site here.

That should work.

Here you go fancontrol

When I found this I immediatly sent a few beers to the guy through paypal and even sent him an email thanking lol

I had the same reaction as yourself 😄 since I have a custom loop for cpu and gpu, but... my gpu has a custom block on it, so I needed this to make it a 100% perfect experience.

Absolutely! Going by coolant temp is the way to go.

Having said that, with SIV controlling the hardware, you can definitely use the Corsair Commander [Pro] to set a curve based on a combination of GPU and CPU load/temps. You simply need to create a virtual sensor that is some mathematical combination of the two.

SIV does not have the most user-friendly interface but it's extremely powerful.

If I were you, I would order a set of M3 Screws that contains different lengths. When I switched fans on my CPU rad, I had to go from 30mm to 35mm due to the configuration (Rad, gasket, bracket, gasket, fan).

With a little surgery you should be able to make this and this into what you need.

You can buy argb strips from amazon.

If it's bit longer then just cut out couple of led.

I have https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2280-Rocket-Heatsink-SB-HTSK/dp/B07TN2RX2K this installed on top of the GPU on Asus dark hero with active backplate from ek without a problem. PM me if you need a photo

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3801A2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6doJFbXVTDW3D

This is what I am using, I purchased the bezel separately.

Use a paper clip or a bridging connector aka jumper on the 24pin cable that goes to your power supply. This completes the circuit to make the power supply think it's installed onto the motherboard, so when you turn on the power supply switch, it'll power on. Make sure nothing else is connected to the power supply except the pump when doing so.

Something like this

Changing your loop will probably be expensive and a lot of work.

What I would suggest is going to a auto parts store and getting a hand operated brake bleeder pump. You'll need to figure out a way so it can seal tightly against the fill port on your loop but then you should be able to suck out the air no matter where it is in your loop.

Something like this might work: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0813531W3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_3KV5QSENFKNN8G8KXZ34?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to be a little bit safer, you can also buy one of these for $9.00: https://www.amazon.com/COMeap-Switch-Adapter-Braided-21-5-inch/dp/B07LGRFMDP/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=psu+24+pin+jumper&qid=1624482046&sr=8-4

Or just one of these for $5.00 works as well: https://www.amazon.com/outstanding-Bridge-Supply-Connector-Starter/dp/B08HN1Z9RN/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=psu+24+pin+jumper&qid=1624482127&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFBSzQ4QVU0OTBJQjUmZW5jcnlwdGV...

Cooler Master MasterBox TD500 Mesh Airflow ATX Mid-Tower with Polygonal Mesh Front Panel, Crystalline Tempered Glass, E-ATX Up to 10.5", Three 120mm ARGB Fans & ARGB Lighting System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0839Y7933/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BKKHRN64P28W658HPVP8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Cooler Master Masterbox TD500

https://www.amazon.com/Bykski-Acrylic-Cooling-Compression-Fitting/dp/B07FS7JN3H?th=1

I only used them coming out of the distro block.

Got the glass here:

https://www.mountainglass.com/boro-glass-33-coe/clear/tubing-and-rod

I have the Optimus block and added this USB blower fan to it. Dropped junction temps by another 8-10c from when the backplate was completely passive. Secured it with just a bit of double sided tape on the corners. May not be necessary for what you're wanting, but figured I'd throw it out there.

Find a d5 res or block and you shouldn't have issues. I've never had issues with my d5s. I have some that are older than I can remember. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6Z3MBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_04D1PDGN99V1604H35Z2

is that 860 Peak or 860 Continuous. 180 Gal is not really that large of an area with exposed water to lose heat. Depending on the chiller its either designed for 50% duty cycle or 100%. The difference is big. Just because it can handle that load for a time does not mean its going to last..

But since you asked. in the Mid to large Range you will want a Jebao DC pump.
its going to move the most water, its Inline OR Submergible. and you can adjust up or down with the control panel.

I own the 10k series, 18 K series and a 5k that has seen 24/7 use since 2014

Are you talking about the Barrow in-line temperature screen?

//www.amazon.com/om/ OLED Display in-Line Temperature Sensor w/Alarm - Black (FBFT04-Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GQXK1N/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_B8512F99WEE2Y950WPYX

Are you talking about the Barrow on-line temperature screen?

//www.amazon.com/om/ OLED Display in-Line Temperature Sensor w/Alarm - Black (FBFT04-Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GQXK1N/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_B8512F99WEE2Y950WPYX

Standard wire strippers work great until you have to cut metric screws. Like OP, I was mounting Phanteks Halos onto some Noctua fans. The catch: my rads took M3 and M4 screws. I had to order some special wire strippers with metric bolt shears, which are harder to find than you might think (at least in the US). There was only one listing I could find on Amazon that wouldn’t take multiple weeks to arrive. For anyone else who finds themselves in such a scenario, here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KNQOPZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6CG5053ZVTA5P45TARS5

Can you daisy chain the fans together? If you can I am thinking you would just need a Splitty 4 , if you cannot daisy chain the fans together I think you would need 3 of them, which would handle all the Fans and RGB for them. If you scroll down a little you can see all the supported fans. I am not totally sure about the splitty because I do not own one, I just use Noctua fans.

If they are not supported you could just hook them up in conjuction with the other lighting I am going to explain below for your other parts. You just might need more rgb splitter cables and rgbpx adapters.

To light the rest you would need 2 RGBpx cables and 3 of the RGBpx adapters I linked you in the other comment. That's if you are trying to light the cpu, gpu and pump.If its just cpu and gpu you would only need 2 of the adapters. You would also need a 5v splitter to run off one of those RGBpx cables. Two of the 3 will have the same lighting, just a little fyi because they will be on the same channel.

That should get you up and running tho...

https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Female-Rotary-Fitting-Chrome/dp/B00V174QVA

These are the male-female adapters I have. I forgot about the slag from drilling, luckily I do have access to 120psi compressor and a high-pressure water source.

I don't expect to thread the fittings into the radiator, but use the epoxy as the medium between the two.

If you are grouping fans together, say you want 3-6 fans on radiator for CPU and other fans in another group for your chasis then you can get a fan hub like this

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Commander-Powered-4-Pin-AC-023-AN1NAN-A1/dp/B01G9BEC5W/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=fan+hub&qid=1621347062&sr=8-4

or any other similar hub. I use that one and never had issues.

Plug your CPU fans into hub then hub into CPU fan header and so on for your other groups.

You can use motherboard BIOS for your fan curves and any monitoring software will pick up the fan speeds.

The two types I have used are

• plug sensors - goes into extra pump, reservoir, distro plate plug

• in-line sensor - can be placed almost anywhere

What I am thinking of are standalone units that move a lot more air than what would out of one air duct.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWYO53G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HXSSKGVH1C1343ET78M4

This is what I like to use. It’s simple, and moves a lot of air. Or is very quiet when I want it to be while still moving a decent amount of air. The HEPA filter combined with the carbon filter does an amazing job and keeping dust and odd smells to a minimum.

What about an M to F g1/4 extension which could then go straight into a 90 that goes to the card? They’ve got non-knurled ones too, and longer, which could have more clearance. And they’re narrow by design since they’re just slightly wider than the threads of the hole themselves.

Bitspower G1/4" Male to Female Extender Fitting, 20mm, Black Sparkle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GM0OU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A58E0Z71YS2CWB4HV283

Depending on how much room there is behind the GPU, you might be able to use 180 degree adapters for the cables. Then most of it would be hidden behind so you can see the res better.

https://www.amazon.com/Female-AngledPower-Adapter-Desktops-Graphics/dp/B07P5R258Q/

You can get spiral mandrels. If you're into 3D printing or know anyone who is, you can also print them.

if you're going for 9$ pumps 🙄, choose one with a bigger motor

this one sometimes goes for 9$

https://www.amazon.com/Inner-Thread-Ultra-Quiet-Water-Noiseless/dp/B081RGNFNH/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=pc+water+pump&qid=1619976602&sprefix=pc+water&sr=8-4

works fine if you drop it to 85% or so (no noise)

I would still go for ddc or d5 from AliExpress if you don't want to pay too much.

My freezemod d5 is about 1% lower flow vs my ek D5 at about 1/3 of the cost.

I think most get this one, looks like it is out of stock right now on Amazon though, might be able to pick it up from somewhere else https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WGDW2K5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_19V8GQ9KRCQWM24GGX7H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Is this true of all pumps, including pump/reservoirs? I have a Corsair Hydro XD5 pump/res for each of the loops I'm planning, and they're mounted ON the sides of the radiators I'm using, which technically makes the in/out on both of them the highest point in each respective loop, albeit by only about an inch or two.

​

(Would give pics, but I only have one pump/res mounted on a radiator atm, and it's at home where I am not)

Commercial tube-frame cases exist, like this, but that little piece facing the camera has the ASUS ROG logo on it, and I can't find any tube cases made by Asus. So it probably is hand-built.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QC75ZBK/

They have multiple different lengths. This one matched up to the same length as the EK one. EK measured 200mm from tip to tip, this product measures the length for just the cable part

>Aquacomputer D5 NEXT RGB

This pump only provides temp data via USB for use in Aquasuite, which will not work with your thermal sensor header in your motherboard. It would work if you got a Quadro.

This sensor should work. See it has a 2-pin output? Look at your mobo, it'll work in that input.

>this is the tubing I just purchased

fittings

>If I get another radiator, could I get the same radiator and mount it on the front where my stock fans are currently and use that as intake, then the top rad as exhaust?

Yes. Radiators getting fresh air is better, but it's not a deal breaker.

What sort of space do you have? It's possible you could fit better radiators than the EK models you list

Corsair Vengeance RGBPRO16GB (2x8GB) Ddr43200(Pc4-25600) C161.35Vtuf Gaming Edition, CMW16GX4M2C3200C16-TUF

Amazon product link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VQJ9J7V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are pretty common to put between the pump and the bracket:

1. uxcell M4 Male Female Rubber... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KT3QRX5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
2. uxcell 10 x 10mm M4 Thread Female... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MFY95PG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Screen

Temp Sensor

Thanks!

I used the HWLabs 360GTS rad on the bottom. I think /u/mrpiper1980 used the same one and got it to fit with the distro plate but some drilling had to be done to the case from what I'm aware of.

For tubing, just make sure you have a bunch of extra and take your time. Make sure you heat where you're bending thoroughly and make sure the area around the bend is heated as well so it doesn't kink. I used one of these as it makes trimming the tube down a lot easier in my opinion. The silicone insert is really important too.

But yeah, just make sure you have extra tubing for when you inevitably make a mistake or make a bend that isn't JUST how you want it to be. It's really not that difficult and as you do more bends, it'll become a lot easier for you.

The anti-vibration mounts will go in between the fan frame and the reservoir combo bracket

Here is a link to some anti!-vibration mounts

https://www.amazon.com/Easycargo-Vibration-Reduction-Silicone-16-Pack/dp/B07X24NTM3/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=anti-vibration+120mm+fan&qid=1611854702&sr=8-16

Most Seasonic PSUs have hybrid fan mode so it could be powered on but the PSU fan might not be moving.

Do you have a PSU tester? It's something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO

Also, what pump are you using? The usual D5 PWM pumps have 2 different connections. One is a SATA/ molex line for power, and another is the PWM header. In order to do leak testing, the PWM header has to be disconnected and the power line connected to PSU.

What controller are you using? An Aquacomputer Quadro/ Octo? Those won't work out-of-the-box until you get into Windows and gets it recognized through the USB interface. How many fans were you trying to power with the controller? It is possible that a bad controller pulled too much current from the PSU and popped something in there.

Finally, Seasonic PSUs are known to be pretty hardy. If you had a short/ bad cable, sometimes it won't blow itself up. It just refuses to power on. I've made cables where I flipped the 12V and GND on the 8-pin EPS and my PSU just didn't want to power on. Same goes for that one time I used a Dell 6-pin peripheral SATA cable on a new Seasonic PSU. Just make sure you use the cables that came with the Seasonic, ok?

Recommend you not do a leak test with your PSU installed. Get the PSU out of the rig and use something like this to power your pump(s). Fans do not need to be leak tested.

I used this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P4WBVBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_6x4aGb4825091?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I should be able to remove the backplate if needed by using acetone or isopropyl alcohol. Apparently these will denature it enough for that.

After taking off the block, of course.

I bought a set of spacers from Amazon for the mini and D5 FLT240 mounting on the side. The screws on the FLT are m4 in size, make sure to also buy longer bolts. Here's the link to spacer kit I got.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014KJKWWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Gj4aGbG7NNH8P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I've been using plain distilled water with PrimoChill Liquid Utopia for years and never had growth problems. No silver coil needed. You add one of those little bottles into a gallon of water and you are all set.

I have found these bits are indispensable in cleaning up cuts and trimming to size exactly. https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-RFB-Rigid-Tubing-Finishing/dp/B07SX5K789/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=primochill&qid=1610552653&sr=8-10

This guy. Works fine. Good viewing angle, which can be hit or miss on these RPi screens. Fits the O11 XL perfectly.

SDTC Tech 4-Pack G1/4" Male to Female Extender Connector 90° Rotary Elbow Enhance Multi-Link Adapter Fitting for PC Water Cooling System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XCNLKGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_jVY-FbVYASXCB

I saw a YouTube video that referenced this Krylon Industrial Matte Black paint. I couldn't find this "industrial" stuff in a store so I snagged a can on Amazon.

LOL.

Rigid Finishing Bit

https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-RFB-Rigid-Tubing-Finishing/dp/B07MZB2GPK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2K342KY5PINU8&dchild=1&keywords=primochill%2Brigid%2Bfinishing%2Bbit&qid=1609216482&sprefix=primochill%2Brigid%2Caps%2C239&sr=8-1-s...

I used this and this to get my loop filled....I have the model with just the fan header. Other than that it's running great

The one I’m using is powered by sata, no issues yet, I have like 5 devices connected

Timack 12 Way 5V 3 Pin ARGB HUB RGB LED Splitter Hub with PMMA Case and Magnetic Standoff for ASUS/MSI 5V 3pin LED Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RPFJH5B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ZUd4FbCY1VPVH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

These can be called “reservoir fill tubes” or “flow guide”: Barrow G1/4" Aqua-Pipe Reservoir Fill Tube Fitting Long Version - Silver (TWDLG-L-Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TGX1SF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_rGY3FbSXJGMSZ

They might be called something else but this is what I search for when I look for them.

Seconded. Don't use vinegar if you have nickel plated components.

I use this set of fittings to connect my shower to the radiator directly, which allows me to quickly flush it with large amounts of hot water. I finish off with a thorough distilled water wash to make sure I cleaned out any minerals from the tap water.

Awesome! I’m sure it looks really nice, the pre-bent sections I used were a little tricky to plan for but kinda cheating compared to what you bend yourself. Those fittings sure add up! The QLs look so nice, I was close to making this no-RGB, but they just look so good.

The 15mm noctua pushers on top of my GTS just baaaarely make the whole stack clear the VRM heatsinks — so push pull just barely fits there.

Look into the EKWB vertical GPU mount, it is super stout even after some pretty significant cutting. Do you have a waterblock on the 3080 already?

I used these nickel finish cap head screws for the QLs and I think it adds some nice detail to the design — they fit great (just double check the thread size on yours) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083J9P8G2