What are /r/Justrolledintotheshop's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

I got one on Amazon and it had a line where I could type in anything I wanted on the cord At no extra charge. Mine says, For best results, insert rectally

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016P7SH60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They seem to have gone up in price, but it is definitely a quality cord.

Edit: TRIGGER WARNING! I linked this from my order history which is a smile.Amazon link. The thought of accidentally helping out a charity has upset some people. Purchase at your own risk.

Leave a box of baking soda (Arm&Hammer sells one with a mesh side so it wont spill out) in there for awhile to absorb the smell. I also bought a used car from a smoker (they tried to clean it up but i could tell) and that helped alot!

Here's a link to Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Arm-Hammer-Baking-Fridge-N-Freezer-Absorber/dp/B00S056D9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=arm+hammer+fridge+fresh&qid=1562826257&s=gateway&sprefix=arm+hammer+fr&sr=8-17

Don't worry guys, I gotchu covered.

Face protection

Head/upper body protection

I've always done my oil changes with vehicle ramps. They are cheap and work perfect for oil changes at home.

Vehicle Ramps

A kid? I still read them! Stephen Biesty I gift them to my nephews but the adults love them, too.

My Saab has a known issue with poorly made metals on the tips of the valves.

It's a known issue. I didn't know about it, HE didn't know about it even though he's a master tech and his shop is well established.

Quoted me $1700 to take apart my entire engine, this is a $3k job. Coolant kept leaking into the block. He took it apart 2 more times, for free, because he felt bad that he didn't do a good job. Turns out I had a porous block, not uncommon, but it doesn't really affect the Saab engine, it'll still go like hell once it's sealed.

I did some online research and found AC Delco leak tabs for like $7. I said "Hey man, lets give it a shot!"

My car has been flawless, and I drive 150mi/day for work, my engine is just as good as it's ever been, I'm approaching 100k/mi and it's smooth as silk.

This guy took it apart 3 times to try to fix an issue he never heard about, fixed the issue once I figured out what it was, and my car is still solid as a rock.

My mechanic is a hell of a guy.

EDIT: I work in IT, you can spend over a decade doing IT/troubleshooting but that doesn't mean something comes across your desk you haven't heard about. My mech was sincere and really cared about his shop, his reputation, and his customers. He's a hell of a guy.

The next step to get a machine through "one more job" is to hit the chain with 3M Super 77

u/Mall-Ninja asked "What makes murican manufactures so shit compared to the Japanese?" then cowardly deleted his comment.

The people.

From the line employees up to the executives.

In the US, if a problem is spotted, it's the "next guy's" problem.

In Japan, if a problem is spotted, it's "my problem".

The organizational culture of organizations like Toyota have been well studied and attempts have been made at emulation.

Further, the US is usually a leader on ingenuity in terms of cost reduction. This will manifest itself as real world failures such as this and other low quality parts, techniques, or labor being used. Japan is a leader at Quality Engineering. US manufacturer's have tremendous pension liabilities that need to be funded through current and future vehicle sales, driving the use of lower cost materials, processes, and labor up, pushing quality down. I cannot find the exact number, however I believe the percentage of vehicle cost attributed to cover pension liabilities is double digit. Indeed, healthcare costs add $1500 per vehicle, while Ford's are $1400. These indirect costs add up significantly, resulting in a target margin that's impossible to meet without this type of flaw showing its face.

To sum, OP is now "the next guy" in this chain of accountability.

I was talking about one of these.

Not the cheapest, but you can buy more plugs for ~$20.

They are nitrous oxide canisters used in culinary industry for making whipped cream. You can also huff them direct from the can with no cream....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BVUURI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_O3gTFbCJS826S

You might want to check with another PSI gauge if you have one; I've seen those cheap plastic pen-style gauges read all over the place. Multiple reads coming back anywhere from 10-15 PSI over or under the actual pressure.

They're ok if that's all you have and you have an idea where your pressure really is (and/or you get similar readings for each tire, with multiple reads) - but I honestly prefer something a bit better if I have the choice.

Nothing digital (damn things are always needing batteries) - just a dial gauge like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010A6B6KG

...or a higher-quality stick gauge, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/WYNNsky-Extension-Service-Pressure-Durable/dp/B071KWBX64

If you're not opposed to aftermarket... $50 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Camshaft-GX670-Timing-Engine/dp/B01CK31ZVM?keywords=gx670+cam+shaft&qid=1537369533&sr=8-1-fkmrnull&ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1

Perfectly stated. There's a best selling business management book The Toyota Way that captures their production system's cyclical quality improvement ethos. Some of the concepts even make their way into life coaching and sports. To sum it up it's just Continual Improvement and focus on the weakest parts of the puzzle. Nothing too small to improve on.

Edit: There's also the Honda Myth book about Honda. The first Honda engines were sold for bicycle to motorcycle conversion kits. The motors were warrantied and the first engineers would study the broken engines for points of failure and revise designs, and listen to customers in a market stall for usability complaints. It was a face to face improvement cycle that led to their 'can't kill it' tradition.

We used to order it in the 55 gallon drums at my old shop.

Pump some in to a SureShot container, pressurize it with the air chuck and you're good to go!

https://www.amazon.com/Vaper-19419-Spray-Non-Aerosol-Sprayer/dp/B0035FH906/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522672918&sr=8-1&keywords=sureshot

I maintain a small fleet of 6.0l for a concrete company. They have anywhere from 140k to 400k+ miles on them. We run them stock until heads go, then i pull motor, do head studs, reseal everything and thats the last I touch em until maintenence.

The secret to every powerstroke oil system lasting is this oil additive. its a bit pricey but you notice it instantly the first oil change. It does wonders for the injectors. You can hear them click so much clearer when you cycle the key. Zero stiction. Run it in every single diesel we have.

Ever try to buy Brembo motorcycle brake parts on EBay? Knockoffs of $300-$500 radial master cylinders for under $50. Scary dangerous to think of somebody putting one on a 1000cc sportbike.

edit, looks like Ebay cleaned the clones out as everything looks authentic now, but you can still buy them on Alibaba

you should get the tywrap gun or zip tie gun, perfectly tensions the cable that you set and cut sit when tension is reached. Cuts super flush no sharp edges and can operate with one hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Panduit-GS2B-Controlled-Tension-Cut-Off/dp/B001EU2558

stupid expensive yes but the one i have saw daily use over a decade and zero issues still. At first i had the harbor freight one and its crap. This is one of those buy it once for life tools and since your cabinet building its a time saver and would make your job so much quicker. Might be able to get your boss to order one and try it out and have them as company tools.

ProTool 5-Point Star Bit Tamper-Proof Bit Set-Fits Many German Cars-T10 to T50-Taiwan 5-Point Star Bit Tamper-Proof Bit Set-Fits Many German Cars-T10 to T50-Taiwan, Metal https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007SOODHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Km0TCbEW5PDHF

"Ready, Kafka?"

And, here's this for anyone who doesn't understand Helmet's reference:

>When initiating the metamorphosis of Spaceball One into the giant maid, Dark Helmet leans towards Colonel Sandurz and asks "Ready, Kafka?" This is a reference to the novella "Die Verwandlung" by Austrian-Hungarian author Franz Kafka, a story about a man who transforms into a giant insect. The most common English translations of said piece are titled "Metamorphosis". The same novel is quoted in Mel Brooks' The Producers (1967).

Here, they can get a fake stick on vinyl sunroof to go with it:

https://www.amazon.com/NF-orange-Vehicle-Sticker-SunROOF/dp/B07CZZ86WQ

Greatest G force handled is 46.2 Gs at a test site, you can definitely survive crazy forces = somewhere around 7700lbs on the human body. Crashing though, at 65mp and 150lbs human would be equivalent to 1076.2 Gs = 161,381lbs on the body.

With a seat belt, that all massively changes to less than 1/5th of what I stated...

https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/car-crash-force

You can get a similar one on Amazon.

Sold as a steering wheel sun shade.

They were a 40$ investment. Very much worth it. The bottom rocker is glued onto my c5 and already broken on one side from a previous owner who lifted it wrong. I'm gonna have to find a way to make a new hole for it to reach to because the fiber glass broke there. Edit: here is a links to the pucks if any other vette owners want some: Dewhel Jack Pad Adapter Billet Anodized Black Aluminum Floor Jack For Corvette C7/C6 Premium bolt on Jack Points - 4 pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077PLV1X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0IbwDbCFSN7JR

I just spent far too long looking at toasters. Check this thread out. Seems to convey that a higher power toaster is more effective than thinner slots (due to some plane geometry stuff).

EDIT: And this seems like a good toaster.

EDIT: It is not a good toaster, see below for anecdotal evidence.

I got into the habit of coating the hub, rear center of the rotor and front center of the rotor with anti-seize. It isn't perfect, but it has helped to lessen this happening.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000FW7VGE/

That looks like a standard Coleman. By morning it will lose like half its' air anyway.

Needs an air pump 12v or one that runs on 4 D-cell batteries.

Yeah, camping advice on /r/Justrolledintotheshop

Get a hatch or a wagon, throw it in the trunk to sleep on if you're in mosquito territory, throw all your shit inbetween the front/back seats and/or get a Thule box. Good to go.

EDIT: Yakima!!!

Get some firewood, a good buck knife, some meat, baby, you got a camp goin'.

EDIT2: This is a bad example but in camping case, "fuel" is "tinder" and "kindling". You use your buck knife and a block of wood to shave off wood for tinder. Very small shavings to build under your 'tent' of kindling. You build a tent of kindling, just a bunch of sticks you've cut off your wood above your tinder. You then shave some more, and then cut those shavings, and if you have some newspaper or some lighter fluid throw that in there also.

Sorry the natural progression is kindling (small fire starter, you can even use doritos), tinder (larger fire starters), and fuel (big ass logs). You then pile the wood around the wood tent and let it catch. Feeding the fire as need be.

No, unfortunately. The link I posted has a link it says is to the full story, but I didn't check it. My copy is from a now very old, fragile paperback anthology Edit called Deep Space by Robert Silverberg from 1973.

Double-secret Ninja edit Found it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057JTQ9U?pf_rd_r=4PRFMVKER3BK4YPYHG04&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=5e4ef0f6-2036-4464-b525-f0aaddb8f2ca&pd_rd_w=rK740&pd_rd_wg=LLQd4&ref_=pd_gw_unk

I would install a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve in this situation.

As I am a subaru tech, these don't scare me anymore. But i'll let you in on the tricks that work for me.

1. Use an oil filter claw. I'm partial to the 2-jaw, like the Lisle 63600. Put that on a 6" extension and then a cheapie 3/8" ratchet. We're only going to use this to crack the filter loose, maybe 1/4 turn.
2. Let the filter drain! The oil that's in the filter will stay there obviously, but the oil in the pipework to and from the filter will want to drain back. Let it flow down the filter and into your catch. When it stops dribbling, proceed to 3.
3. If it's not so hot, simply place a shop rag over your hand, reach up there, and spin it off. Be careful not to tip the filter over and dump its oil on the exhaust.
4. If it really is a scorcher, grab one of those ubiquitous foam coffee cups from the break room or wherever, and shove it onto the bottom of the filter. The bottom of the cup will hang down low enough for you to spin it free without touching the exhaust.
5. Verify the oil filter seal didn't stick to the engine before installing new filter, via step 3 method if necessary.

At this point i've just calloused my wrists and the back of my hands though so usually I just barehand it.

Security Seal, not paint marker. Meant to give a visual identification if a bolt as moved since tightening it, which is rare because I torque every drain pan bolt exactly to the spec on the Spec-Sheet I'm given for every car. Fuck the 'hand tight' bullshit. I never torque anything that goes into an engine block hand tight, except maybe valve-cover ~~bolts~~ nuts.

Best thing I've bought to add to my meters. I work on equipment, being able to hang the meter on the frame or roll cage makes life very easy.

Multimeter Hanging Kit with Clip and Magnetic Hanger, works with Fluke Meters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079S1J8C9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Fql4BbXJ8FHMA

400 bucks for 25 pound bucket

Amazon has them. She got this one from Toys R Us.

I didn't know such a thing existed.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Haynes-4-Cylinder-Combustion-Engine/dp/B000YX7OXO

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/50t/Haynes-HM10R-V8-Model-Combustion-Engine/B00EQ4JOBC

It looks like the one I have isn’t made anymore, but this is a similar design. You have to set a fan blowing on it or the plate will burn out. I would trust this one more than any of the ones in the premade enclosures because you can verify and replace parts on it easily.

Part number matches the standard distributor, probably just got it from Mercruiser instead of the Chevy dealership. List price from GM is $658, but you can get them for much less. Amazon has one for $288 on Prime.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003T7XUE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RAAdCbWNW4EXC

Put a piece of clear tubing on it running into the drain pan and turn the valve.

Probably the best twenty bucks I spend on my cars.

https://smile.amazon.com/Godeson-Inflator-Compressor-Accessories-Twist/dp/B06ZZH68N8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546065448&sr=8-1&keywords=screw%2Bon%2Btire%2Bstem%2Bchuck&th=1

You may do well with something like this. Cut out a foot or two of new hose, put adapters on both ends, and a valve/lever. Pressure gauge too, if you want to get real fancy.

Or for those of you who don't want the DIY

Residue from smoke will be all through the air handling system. Ducts, fan and fan housing, heat exchanger...

Maybe only way to eliminate will be to spray an odor eliminator in to air intake w/ fan on high?

I've had good results with Scoe X10:

https://www.amazon.com/SCOE-10X-Concentrate-Odor-Causing-Elimination/dp/B07C239MFW

take apart a C or D cell conventional battery.. it will have a carbon rod in the middle.. find one that has what ever size that bolt thread is.. thread it.. carefully thread the carbon rod into the what is left of the cleaned out hole.. use a wire tube brush.. weld the head up with nickel rod with the now threaded carbon rod in the hole. you will usually end up with a threaded hole.. after you have welded ..

you don't have to weld it up to the port surface.. making you have to grind it flat to put the manifold on either.

a former boss showed that to me decades ago.. when partial ears would break off Ford FE heads..

crank grinders have tapered carbon pins they shove in crankshaft oil passages when they have to weld up a journal to bring it back to size..

and for the non believers.. https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Crankshaft-Welding-Plugs-365/dp/B00XLWJM9Y

Sigh...these whippersnappers have never heard of "Manifold Destiny" the car-engine cookbook. ~~A bit out of date but~~* Definitely both practical and funny -- they even evaluate different car engines for cooking suitability.

*Looks like they've updated it in 2008. Mine is from the 90s.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077FFK3XB/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B077FFK3XB&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=9HE5VYSM572A319JYP0R&pd_rd_wg=AIpXs&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=8vGcv&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=c03af2f9-de0d-11e8-91a1-219660d24dcd

​

These stickers used to be popular among the gangsta wanna-be crowd. You can experience bullet holes in your car without the need for a gun.

Reminds me of "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance"

I'm specifically reminded of the part about Shim Material.

read this part here starting at "His handlebars had started slipping."

Damn, you can get a 5 pack on Amazon for $30

https://www.amazon.com/pieces-DMM-11-DMM-11A-Fluke-Digital/dp/B00MUTUPKO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550056111&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fluke+fuse+11a+1000v&dpPl=1&dpID=51HDCJWU7HL&ref=plSrch

You can actually buy lead substitute, which you put into your gas to help restore some of the lubrication / benefits that leaded gas provided. I'll let one of the more knowledgeable mechanics note whether or not it's actually useful or just snake oil.

Reminds me a square skateboard wheel I saw a Kickstarter for a few months ago.

It looks really promising considering they are literally reinventing the wheel.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1537100752/shark-wheel-the-square-skateboarding-wheel-that-sh

Here ya go!

EDIT; Better supplier, $1.50 more but better choices of graphics and colors.

Just get some Irwin bolt extractor socketa. They've never failed me as long as I'm able to get the socket on the head of the bolt

Irwin Tools BOLT-GRIP Extractor Expansion Set, 5 Piece, 394002 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pqe.DbNXNNYGH

You could have just gotten a GPS app like CoPilot where you can download the entire United States at once.

Functions just like any other GPS and you don't need a cell signal at all to use it.

https://copilotgps.com/

Get yourself one of these kits

Lisle 58850 Oil Pan Plug Rethread Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J19K06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AKsiDb4EJ0XDD

Not everyone is nice enough to leave a note and I can't tell you how many times this kit has saved my ass

Why aren't you using rechargable batteries?

Energizer AA/AAA Battery Charger with 4 AA Batteries https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00339NINQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t-3mCbP5NJYKC

Never need another set again.

Atomic clock? Is that like a brand name for a radio clock? An actual atomic clock is a massive science machine that is as large as a small car.

Diagram: http://www.britannica.com/technology/atomic-clock

Atomic clocks also don't really have anything to do with daylight savings time.

The most logical source of radio time would be the cell phone network, the GPS network, or one of the radio time stations like this one.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WWV_(radio_station).

So I decided to rebuild the carb on my pressure washer with a Honda GX160. Searched amazon and found out you can buy a Carb for it for 16 bucks, it's cheaper to just buy a new carb than rebuild it. A year later I was telling a buddy about it, pulled up the same carb and it had dropped to 12 dollars. Now I was thinking about this, because you mentioned how expensive Carbs are (I know they are for large engines, certainly, but they are dirt cheap for small engines) and they have dropped the price to 8 dollars and change. For a small engine carb. It's nuts! I never need to rebuild the thing again, I can just keep a small cache of replacement carbs and swap them out whenever I feel like it!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W0EH1M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that's the carb I got. I bought it June 2014 and it's still running like a top today.

Also, look into getting a vacuum insulated water bottle. It’ll keep water ice cold all day, if you get a decent one. I have 64oz bottle and probably go through two refills a day on really hot days.

Edit: would also like to add you don’t have to shell out the big bucks for something like a Hydroflask. I got an Iron Flask. Works just as well as Hydroflask for a fraction of the price.

Actually, only about 24% of all tires are made in china. (of which 19% gets exported)

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/tires/where-are-tires-made

http://www.worldstopexports.com/rubber-tires-exports-country/

china manufactures the most tires, but most tires are not made in china.

Close

https://www.walmart.com/ip/40440199?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228032130751&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=76190840088&wl4=pla-105640305888&wl5=9041382&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=817...

You realize the reason parking meters & zoned parking exist is to keep enough available parking, right? If parking was free, people would camp in every spot and there would be no free spots anywhere. Supply and demand.

These days, the meters can vary the rate so during peak hours it charges more and in off hours it charges less (or nothing). The intent being to charge just enough to make sure there is at least some available street parking. See here and here

I have 2 for redundancy.

This one is house-style and stays on the wall, but it has the compound sensors for immediate feedback, displays actual ppm, and the alarm threshold is pretty low at 30 ppm. It stays affixed to the wall, but you could pop it off the mount and bring it wherever easily.

Then there's this one, and I'll take it off the mount if I have the heater running in a far corner of the shop. It flashes at 9 ppm then beeps at 25 ppm. You'd be just fine with the other one in a workshop, but I splurged for this one too as they both go in my van when I'm sleeping in there, especially with the diesel heater running.

>And there isn't much to check. Unless the radiator cap is visibly damaged or broken, you won't know if it will actually vent at the correct pressure.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27065-Radiator-Cap-Test/dp/B004FDL1TW

A new sensor for my car (a 2011 Subaru Outback) costs a whopping $38 on Amazon, complete with free two days shipping for prime members.

Obviously you need to need to get it replaced and programmed. Mitchell Guide calls this a 0.6 hour job. The local dealer has a $114 an hour labor rate which means you are looking at about $70 in labor and $40 in parts, or $110 total for the repair. Not bad for an item that needs replaced once every few years. My 2011 is still on its original set of four.

If you want to work under some cover, see if you can get one of these type of tents: Coleman event shelters.
They're up to 15x15ft and you can get separate walls and doors for it, so at least it's a couple of degrees warmer for you to work in. They're also quite easy to set up and break down.

According to this site, the going rate, today, for gasoline is 208.50 ISK per liter, and for diesel it is 192.20 ISK per liter.

Math About US$6.11 a US gallon for gasoline and US$5.64 a US gallon for diesel.

For comparison, the US average today for gasoline is about US$2.60 a US gallon.

In this context that would be you.

https://www.amazon.com/Sure-Shot-A1000G-Interior-Exterior/dp/B005POGY74/ref=pd_sim_86_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005POGY74&pd_rd_r=02YKDEJXSSWRF022NR1E&pd_rd_w=xDZqh&pd_rd_wg=ahXaL&psc=1&refRID=02YKDEJXSSWRF022NR1E

Milwaukee marketing on Amazon says 1,800 ft*Lbs. Damn, thats would be like a 200lb person standing on a 9ft long breaker bar.

Granted they don't have the red paint but found these two both on amazon.

Nothing like being thrown right into the deep end! I love electrical troubleshooting.

Do you have these? Piercing probes are a lifesaver for this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VRECUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_21PgFb2EC5NH5

Make sure you mark where you pierce and cover the holes with liquid electrical tape. Else water can wick in and give you more electrical problems...

Every shop or serious mechanic should buy this set. It has saved me so much time and money dozens of times. Just go slow with ~~carbide~~ cobalt drill bits, they shatter easily.

Despite the hit or miss reviews, this thing has been basically spot on when I would compare my theoretical wheel speed based on rpm and the reported gps speed at the time. It never seemed to wander and only over reported by ~2-300rpm at the absolute highest rpms.

Of course, it has settings for a whole range of 2-4 stroke engines with various cylinder amounts.

If the motor hadn't gone bang, I could record it at idle (14-1500 rpm) with my pixel 3's 1/8 speed slowmo and listen for the 3.125 pops of the exhaust just to be sure on the low end that it's accurate.

The motor is/was a higher end zeda 80 which has been worked over by zedamotorsports to help bring out another 1-2hp. Where most low end kits are making 2hp on a great day, this thing makes 3-4hp on its worst (2-2.5 if your on the factory pipe and factory carb tuning). I quickly had to replace the shitty rag joint for a CNC aluminum adapter that would clamp onto the hub after throwing on an mz65 expansion chamber. Then I had to replace the wheel when I accidentally clutch dumped rolling from a stop light (yay potholes) and spun the adapter breaking a few spokes/bending the fuck out of the wheel.
After throwing on a 21mm PHBG carb, wide bore intake and a CNC aluminum head it had some fairly impressive grunt for such a small motor. Zedamotorsports offers a lower end motor that is basically the same thing as the one I blew up for half the price that I'll be buying next paycheck if the bottom end is completely fried on my current one.

Yeah, I should have...instead I went home and ordered the right stuff from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Subaru-75W90-Extra-Transmission-Fluid/dp/B0731SB4M3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520358243&sr=8-3&keywords=subaru+extra

Now I don't buy parts from the dealer anymore.

I wear hazmat suits to keep the tics off me when I do yard work. If I was doing HVAC, I'd certainly wear it up in the insulation. I was wearing one when I re-taped all my HVAC ducting over this past winter.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-TY122S-XL-EACH-Disposable-Elastic-Coverall/dp/B01JOWAOEG/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518953482&sr=1-5&keywords=tyvek+suit

$8 and re-usable as long as you don't tear them up.

When I first worked in a shop the owner told me about someone he knew. he was using a one post lift like this, but it only went went under the front / back of the car and lifted that part up.

Either way, he was working Friday afternoon by himself and the lift slipped out. It dropped the front of the car on him. He was pinned under it for quite some time before he passed. It was a very messy ordeal.

The owner was telling me about this to warn me of the dangers of using lifts that don't look safe. I figured I'd pass it on in hopes of people don't try to use cheap stuff.

Those filters often look dark gray when new. If they parked outside under a tree I wouldn't be too surprised if it was only a few months old. This filter for example is dark gray:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ATP-TA-1-Carbon-Activated-Premium-Cabin-Air-Filter/104916776?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=706&adid=22222222228052445218&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=s&wl2=m&wl3=151530081754&wl4=pla-2...

verify your business

On google: https://www.google.com/business/

On bing: https://www.bingplaces.com/

Also a small nitpick, it's not on your homepage it's on your 'contact us' page. You really should put your address, phone, and hours somewhere near the top of your homepage though. Then the contact us page could have the google map, directions, aim name, email, whatever.

That's an improvement over the safety bullshit, but the issue is those spouts are designed to work with cans like in OP photo, with a little vent cap on the opposite end of the can. Without that, they "gulp" as they pour.

If you buy your link, you need to also pick up a pack of these.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87015-Drain-Funnel-Gallon/dp/B01H2KY8OO

Customers who viewed that one also viewed three other plastic ones.

Amazon also wants me to know that it doesn't fit my 1973 MG MGB, so there's that.

Blue sea. They’re marine units, and pretty nice.

Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bgdnCb03QAVSB

I like Sunnex. It's Chinese but it's better than craftsman and cobalt is these days.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LNH7728

​

Some scrap yards will let you set up auto alerts for specific vehicles, you could set one up for crown vic p71s

Here's the Ford part on Amazon

Here's a Chinese copy on ebay for a lot less money

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22284-Protection-Treatment-Stabilizer/dp/B00HEZFZEK

Buy your old man some of this, and insist it be added to every tank of gas. At the very least, it must be added every time the car is parked. If you buy it yourself, at least you get over old miser hump. Its not some new "Fancy shit" either. Sta-bil is what the car collectors use to protect their $1 million Ferraris. If the guy thinks you are full of shit, call 5 mechanics with him listening on speaker phone.

Though the best approach with stubborn people is to lead them into thinking its his idea to use it. You know, leave some ads out where he can find them, use some in your car and say how much better its running...whatever can lead him on. I mean the classic example of leading people is...if you want your friend to get you both a beer from your fridge, start talking about how awesome beer is, and how you just got some last night to drink...

And yes your old man is partly right, better a tank of spoiled gas than a rusted out tank because condensation and the fact residue would dry up and varnish everything, but that was before we started running cars on what is effectively bourbon. Now the bad gas issue is even worse. Which is double why he should be using ethanol remover and stabilizer with every fill up on a classic.

Sta-bil, while perhaps not cheap, should keep the car alive.

Cliff Stoll doesn't recommend metal openers for his Klein Bottles.

Fun fact: Cliff wrote one of the first investigative books on overseas espionage/hacking in the 1980s "The Cuckoo's Egg" and has a lot of other neat topological glassware on the site.

It doesn't like this tool would work for your situation, but some sort of Ball Joint Separator might be worth picking up.

Just to check, are these what you all would expect out of a home job? (Not the ones I own, just the first like them on google.)

A local supplier for me had it but you can get it on amazon.... they want $15 but even at that price it’s worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-57180-Filter-Plug-Cummins/dp/B075FRCM8K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1532565829&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lisle+57180&dpPl=1&dpID=31LJj67TZbL&ref=plSrch

Nearly 8 months ago I bought an actual APC from the Republic of Belarus. In Russia and some ex-Soviet Union countries you can but almost everything just for your own fun. The reason, why I'd to travel over Lukashenko's lans is it was two times cheaper to buy a "tank" there than in Moscow.

The full story of traveling to Belarus and buying some military stuff can be found here https://medium.com/@brdm/how-to-buy-a-tank-a-brdm-2-story-ccbb6640dc38

Add: I've been reading JRITS for a year or something and I see you guys like some hardcore mechanical fun like bringing such a vehicle back to life, so I hope you'll enjoy it.

Or Toyotas, if sludge is a concern.

Downvoters be fanboys.

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/car-parts-and-accessories/engine-sludge/index.htm

>In a related case, Toyota settled a class-action engine-sludge suit in 2007 that covered an estimated 2.5-million Toyota and Lexus vehicles made between 1997 and 2002.

It's actually a Time-Sert threaded insert to repair it. They drill out the spark plug hole, re-tap it to the insert size and install the new insert. Don't even have to pull the cylinder head.

You can see the tool kit here on amazon, the actual inserts are around $12 each.

There are substantially better options for $100. Bought that when I lowered my car, and it was worth every penny.

For $700, you can buy a proper wall-mounted solution.

Get yourself a Shaker siphon. There's a little ball bearing in a metal tip on the end of the hose. You stick that in the tank you want to siphon and just jiggle it until you get gas flowing down into your gas can and then you let gravity do the rest.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X93C7R8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_0wrMCbYSW0KYH

Yep that's what he meant, you could in theory save a VM for each type of car you work on, and load them as and when needed. Theres free software that'll do it like this: https://www.virtualbox.org

You'd be surprised how much is virtualized these days.

> Others can do math.

Why pay $150 for a digital test light when I can get one on Amazon for $18? Who cares if its not quite as good. I can buy 8 for the price of one snap-on.
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Digital-Display-Circuit-Testers/24-V-Digital-Display-Circuit-Tester-(4-49-V-DC-Range)/EECT424HD
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VN5BB31/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Really? They have a pretty good reputation for reliability around here (Europe).

I decided to look it up because lol I drive a VW, and have just ordered an Audi (lease, so I don't need to care about maintenance costs). According to Consumer Reports Audi comes in at #4 while VW sits at #22. Which seems off somehow ...

2016 Triumph Daytona 675R

Crash photos are in this album

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPhdvkCAyQXo1HOPXDxmDsQtPKTnl47kIvafGDtQZ0Wo5XMMjsxu9PccG7FwUsH9w?key=ZUFEMG4tRkwyM1gxV0c0QXgxaFdPN182WTVmbmVB

Something like https://jet.com/product/detail/34400e65b1354c9c8db5a7108fbed65c?jcmp=pla:ggl:gen_hardware_a3:tool_accessories_drill_screwdriver_accessories_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&ds_c=gen_hardware_a3&ds_cid&ds_ag=tool_accessories_dri...

https://tineye.com/search/57df7b981e7ca641f1a85ab938e8bca10c9834f9/?extension_ver=chrome-1.1.5

nor anywhere else. Surely this amazing, rule 1-compliant post deserves to be at the top of the subreddit!

Here in the states, trucks are so common that every dealership or shop I've been in has at least one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Traxion-3-100-Foldable-Topside-Creeper/dp/B00QGXSODA

The local ford dealer has one per tech.

Found it. http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/ba14/#tabs

No longer available, at least on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Expedition-Tools-hk1-Hydrokinetic-Adjustable/dp/B001LQH1NQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1542329677&sr=1-3&keywords=endoscope

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i bought one similar - stupid handy to have around. A non wifi flexible version is like $16 on amazon.

Don't be alarmed if nobody takes up your interpretation.

No matter how right you may be technically, you're fighting over a century of tradition and common use. ;)

Yup. I have two cans of this in my truck. I was scraping my windshield in the parking lot after work and the woman whose car was next to mine was, as well. I walked over and gave her windshield a dose of de-icer and she asked what it was.