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This should work well for you, though Pyle equipment doesn't have the best reputation. You might prefer this Monoprice amplifier. Its power rating is safe with your six 25-watt transformer/volume controls. It also has the advantage of built-in summing of stereo signals so you hear both left and right signals in all speakers.
The Micca speakers are nice, but I'd go with the 8-inch version (for about the same price) because it will give you better bass response.
Yes, 70 volts is normally considered low voltage though I'd check local electrical codes.
Hope this helps!
What do you mean by "modern"? If you want Bluetooth, check the back side, and see if there is a pair of RCA jacks, if not, get one of these https://smile.amazon.com/Receiver-Bluetooth-Cassette-Adapter-Player/dp/B083BX9FPT/ cassette Bluetooth adapters. Honestly though, a single Bluetooth adapter is worth more than that whole system, sadly.
Go off brand on Amazon for about the same audio quality for half the price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FHM16SU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_2EF9FbCDJWE9X
I had this for a long while and looked it, and turned the fx down to 0 for clean amplification. Battery lasts a goodly while and is rechargable
those all seem to be designed to input your cuts and it will organize them into the most efficient use of sheet material.
I'm looking for an app that will just take my external box dimensions and tell me what cuts to make.....
edit. found one on a site called omnicalculator.com....
Here is a link to TinkerCAD, a free online CAD program: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9CGnnDlhM4e-beryllium-3210/edit?sharecode=z4yXUfYLpGMQaMD8XIPUXv4mi1fAIY5S8Vp5VeeFOyw=
It isn't really that technical or useful for building them but so you can have a nice look at how they're put together. If you want them, I can send you a DXF file with al of the exact plates in 2D if you give me your e-mail address via private messages. You could use this to cut them with a milling machine, like I did. I got it done by the Hubo. Some of their stores offer robotic milling services since a while.
Mrtug269 is right. According to OSHA, your work needs to provide hearing protection if you're around that fan for more an an hour a day.
spend $10 today and thank me in 30 years. There are also reusable ones available.
OP It's never too late to start taking care of your ears.
A guitar won't drive headphones to a useable level. You might use an adapter like this to get your guitar into your computer, then listen there with headphones.
Hello, would someone be able to point me in the right direction as to how to hook these speakers up to my pc?
What type of amp would I need?
So far I am looking at this - https://www.amazon.com.au/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Audio-Wireless/dp/B07NY19148/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=200w+amp&qid=1608287921&sr=8-1
Am I on the right track?
Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
If it's for an art installation, you could try some tactile transducers. They're fairly cheap, and you can put them just about anywhere. Just stick them on a flat surface, and it turns it into a transducer. They can be easily hidden, so they're great for things like art installations where aesthetics might be more important than sound quality (they sound fine, but probably wont have the same fidelity as regular speakers.)
Try looking around on Amazon a little bit, there's quite a few different kinds to choose from. Most need an amplifier, but you can always pick up a cheap one. Depending on what amp you choose, you should be able to use pretty much any portable music player. Just look for an amp with a 3.5mm input (AUX) and you should be good to go.
Maybe sit was supposed to be DIY? If so, consider this: https://circuitdigest.com/microcontroller-projects/automatic-temperature-controlled-fan-project
Alternatively, you can get something from Amazon (or whatever retailer) such as this: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CONTROLLER-Thermostat-Controller/dp/B00NG9TSG4/
It's always a good idea to take measurements of diy speakers to look for any problems, but if you don't have a measurement microphone then a basic frequency sweep can identify really obvious problems (mainly resonances). So Yea, try both speakers, sweep the frequency (mainly low frequencies) and see if it becomes unexpectedly loud at certain frequencies.
I use this app for Android (well, normally I use REW for pc and a measurement microphone) https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jm.android.frequencygenerator
I fully agree with all points, but you're probably going to need to compromise on something. I sacrificed "cheap" and attached: Chromecast, digital audio breakout box, DAC, amp.
My only other suggestion is finding AirPlay compatible stuff which is probably more expensive than a chromecast, but old enough a protocol to have more hacks/options.
Left them a little rough at the front rather than fully sanding them smooth as I liked the sort of natural wood look. Designed in fusion 360. Prints in two parts that have a locking mechanism to allow servicing. Back ported based on volume. Drivers Dayton Audio PS95-8 3-1/2" mounted on pre-printed holes in recessed mounting point. Several coats of semi gloss laquer. Printer stands designed for flat angle (not 100%) happy with them. Printed in Hatchbox Wood PLA on a Makergear M2 at .35 layer height with a .40mm nozzle at 90mm/s. Wish I had taken shots prior to sanding (which was minimal) so I could show the quality that the M2 can achieve even at that speed. Apologies for the truly dusty shelf. I moved a bunch of stuff to get the room to mount them. More photos at https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOtAZLgozWKMgaMNZYBhaVTm29yXkxnBsTTpF6e-6wz3p9ymxbZMBhXx9EuuOyr7w?key=cHZLX240OHViUGlWeUREOFpoc1FLbVB0U3NhOEZn
It's late where I am, so I'll get back to this later... for piezoelectrics you need a very high impedance input if you want any sort of true sound response. Most commercial preamps you can buy are not optimized for piezo. See my recent post history for an example of what I've built.
TL;DR: if you want the true sound out of your piezo, get a preamp with 10 megaohms of input impedance or more. You can get away with 1 megaohm but it's still not ideal.
I was thinking of building something suitable for the attic like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC12-26v-TPA3116-AUX-CSR8635-4-0-Bluetooth-Digital-Power-Amplifier-Board-DIY-50W-50W/32679818116.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.1.yFnu1x
It wouldn't get too hot and I'd have a bunch of heat-sinks on it.
No build pics, but here is a pic of one of the completed speakers.
Because all 4 subwoofers are identical, they should have the same phase response and not require much adjustment in that regard. Basically just put 1 subwoofer in each corner, measure the response in 3-5 seating locations, and then perform the EQ adjustment based on the average of those measurements.
If you already own a UMIK-1 I would say get the miniDSP 2x4HD and implement the house curve on that. More accuracy in your measurements, more capability in the EQ section, and I don't think Denon has a high-pass filter option for the subwoofer output.
Edit: Here is the specific TPA3255 model I was thinking of. Has decent signal to noise ratio and about 50-60 watts of power per channel. Not a ton, but plenty when you are running 4 subwoofers.
https://www.amazon.com/AIYIMA-A07-TPA3255-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B08CJZGT6H
You’ll need an amplifier between the speaker and the Bluetooth module. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077MKQJW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ASZFRXBBGRAW88J4P2GT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But since that’s a 5 watt amp, you need a speaker rated for more than 5 watts. You’ll probably also want 2 speakers. The amp support two speakers and audio consists of a left and right channel (two outputs).
Do you want it to be rechargeable? You’ll also need a small BMS board to allow you to charge the battery.
It helps to build multiple subs, and not overbuy on the amplifiers. A pair of Ultimax 12" with some cheap amps could easily take a fight to a single SVS PB-1000 Pro. Not in absolute peak SPL, but low frequency extension and distortion. Not to mention the benefits of multi-sub as it relates to room acoustics.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-UM12-22-12-Ultimax-DVC-Subwoofer-2-ohms-Per-Co-295-512
https://www.amazon.com/AIYIMA-A07-TPA3255-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B08CJZGT6H - 70 watts into 4 Ohms.
That would be roughly $700 for the pair after MDF + paint.
I googled, and if https://www.amazon.com/Jensen-3-Speed-Stereo-Turntable-Cassette/dp/B00579LW06 is your system, you'll just have to recognize that it has limitations, and if you get serious about collecting vinyl upgrade in the future. The Amazon listing shows an output of 2 x 2 watt RMS, so it isn't going to help to buy different speakers.
It does show an RCA line output in the listing so if it truly is a line out you can get another amp and plug it into that and just try out the same speakers. I qualify that statement with truly, because sometimes units like this only line out the CD player, so it wouldn't help you with your vinyl or tapes.
Personally, I wouldn't invest too much money on trying to upgrade this unit and just save up to buy something better. AT most, I'd grab one of these, connect it with an RCA cord to the line out and use the speakers that came with the system. Ive used a couple of these amps and they're pretty good for the price.
While I personally have not used one. Google 3.5mm 2 in 1 out mixer
here is one I found on amazon that should get the job done. Look around for one you like in your price range.
Edit: looks like the reviews say that one sucks but just use it as an example for what you need.
Most of the chip amps (cheap class D amplifier boards available on ebay, Alibaba, Amazon, etc) require an external power supply.
Most chip amps run on 12v-24v power supplies. Depending on the board, and how much power you need, you have a variety of options for powering them.
You could use a 12v battery - very common and many sizes and capacities
You could use 2 12v batteries wired together for 24v
Laptop power bricks are popular, especially the 18-19v ones
Or you can use a dedicated, plug-into-the-wall power supply. These are popular.
$16.99 isn't bad for these. I'm sure maybe with a modified mount using two screws, or better yet, a nut & bolt kinda configuration, they would hold up fine.
There are cheap short range FM transmitters that you can get on Amazon.
It's been years since I used one of these things but the quality wasn't very good, which might help you with your use case. Not sure if it's worth DIY'ing something like this unless you have the parts around anyway.
This is probably the best solution, though I had trouble finding one for sale on amazon, but I didn't look hard.
Here is a $24 off brand device for the same thing.
https://www.amazon.com/USBeast-power-source-Compatible-battteries/dp/B071FS9MJ8
Might cause fires. Looks 3D printed. But it's all the parts you'd need to get started.
First off, Best Buy is completely wrong, you don't need a $2000 receiver, they just want your money.
What you need is a receiver that is capable of multi-zone. This Denon receiver is a 7.2 channel receiver. The 5 channels will be used for the Polk living room speakers, and the Atlas speakers will be connected to the Surround Back outputs. You will need to set them as a 2nd zone and not surround back (the manual will tell you how). The subwoofer connects to the Sub 1 output. It has Bluetooth, AirPlay (if you have an iPhone, iPad, or MacBook), and HDMI inputs for surround sound in the living room.
With a multi-zone, you can have different volume levels and sources going to the different zones, For example, you can have surround sound movie in the living room, and music playing for the dining room and outside.
I think an 8" sub enclosure is generally about <~1 cu. ft. I have a 8" sound storm labs cheap sub that sounds good to me and they recommend a .90 cu. ft. enclosure.
Parts Express can be your friend.
1.) Maybe consider a 2.1 sub mounted plate amp with outputs to the mid/full range bookshelf speakers.
If you are interested in something different:
2.) I use and 8" sub and 2 exciter driven panels for the mid/highs made from 2'x4' acoustic ceiling panels and am very happy with a very inexpensive system. Search you tube for "Worlds Best Speakers" and "Fantastic DIY Speakers for less than $30". I matched this up to a ~$30 amp blue tooth amp board from amazon which is available from several different sellers including parts express. ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077GS6SC9/ ) and the sound is very good. They don't fit on a bookshelf but take up little space on a wall or behind a projector screen. I used a sub bow made for automotive use for about $30 for the sub. still no enclosure on the amp but I am looking at that. need a 24 Volt /10 amp power supply for full 50W X 2 + 100 W sub Channel.
​
PS: The Sound Storm Labs 8" sub plays a 40Hz tone very well and will go lower.
I have this cheap POS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9HNK6L/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It isn't exactly "tiny" but it works perfectly for heatshrink. Definitely feels poorly constructed though.
You could try this: https://www.amazon.com/Firefly-Bluetooth-Receiver-Smallest-Streaming/dp/B01HDO66NK I used it with my car that had a usb port and an aux port. Works great and probably sounds fine. I never used it with speakers good enough to differentiate it.
If desktop use is your concern and you already own a pair of KEF Q300, I would keep those and just optimize them. Remove the woofer crossover, keep a single cap on the tweeter for protection. Grab a pair of TPA3255 amps for power, a miniDSP 2x4HD for the digital crossover, and a UMIK-1 mic for measurements.
https://www.amazon.com/AIYIMA-A07-TPA3255-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B08CJZGT6H
https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4-hd
Plug the ports and set a 2nd order high-pass at 70-80Hz on the woofers. Use a Y-splitter on your input signal, and set the subwoofer low-pass to the same number.
Set the tweeter high-pass to about 2000Hz, and the woofer low-pass to the same. I would try 2nd order filters there as well.
Use measurements + the delay setting so that your subwoofer and woofers are time aligned at the listening position.
Once that is done, use the gain + EQ settings to create a gentle downward slope for the in-room response. Room EQ Wizard can auto-generate and export the EQ filters for you. I recommend starting with a 6-8dB bass bump starting around 150Hz, a flat response from about 150-1000Hz, and then 1dB per octave slope from 1000 to 20000Hz. Adjust to your preference.
If the experience of learning something new while repairing them for under $7 appeals to you, here are 2 surrounds for 3.5 inch (ca. 9 centimeters) drivers for $6.89 and a 10% off coupon to boot on Amazon. You will need to measure speakers as they have several sizes. I suggest reading the reviews, one person said the surrounds for 3 inch (7.62 cm) drivers were too small for their application.
A lot of the DIYSG designs are pretty reliant on EQ to correct them to work properly, so if you have a way to at least get some parametric EQ and Room EQ wizard, then you'll be making an improvement. If your PC is the source, Equalizer APO is a free one that seems to work pretty well.
Get a few acoustic panels and stick them on both the front and back wall. That will cut down on reflections and more than likely kill the sound travel. Amazon Link
It turns out your Xbox has an optical audio output so you can use a simpler device such as the below. The hookup to the projector would remain as is. You will need a stereo rca-rca cable.
If you use audacity to record you can eliminate the sound in post. Just record a few seconds of "silence" with the noise going in the backrgound. Here...http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/remove-ambient-noise-audio-files-audacity/
My project includes playing mp3 sound clips using an Arduino Nano, YX5300 mp3 chip, and a 10W 4 Ohm speaker. When connecting to the DROK 5W+5W, I just connect my 10W speaker to one of the speaker output connections on the DROK and ignore the other speaker output connection. I got the two amplifiers listed above but the sound quality is very different. I am trying to build a PCB board so I need to identify what components in the DROK amplifier (e.g. capacitors, etc) cause the sound to be better than the other amplifier even though the other one is 18W.
How would it work? Do I directly connect them to the speakers?
Would something like this amp work? The sub is 100W.
You could use something like this - then you wouldn't have to mess with crossovers.
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Bridge-Theater
or just search for "mini subwoofer amplifier"
Good idea, thank you. https://www.amazon.com/Sheffield-Plastic-Utility-Caliber-Stackable/dp/B078PHM6G7 They seem affordable and a good form factor. And I could add that passive radiator the other commentor suggested.
Get to reading. It's not trivial or simple.
I have this one and works very well https://www.amazon.com/BE-RCA-Bluetooth-Wireless-Receiver-Streaming/dp/B07XMRMK6F
I have this one and works very well https://www.amazon.com/BE-RCA-Bluetooth-Wireless-Receiver-Streaming/dp/B07XMRMK6F
You need to read a whole lot more than “a bit” if you want to learn how to design your own speakers. This book should help get you started though.
https://www.amazon.com/Aketek-Rotating-Bearings-Monitor-Turntable/dp/B009NPJ0RW
Since you're stuck with the drivers, what you're mainly looking for is a trend. When does the woofer become directional and how low can you play the tweeter? You can find that horizontally. There really isn't much you can do with vertical since you're not moving the drivers around.
Put the speaker on that stand. Put the mic at the tweeter height, or what ever axis you'll be listening, then just rotate the speaker for each test. 15,30,45 degrees should get you an idea of the off axis responses. You can do the same verticle, up and down, if you lay the speaker on it's side, and just rotate the speaker while keeping the mic stationary.
Active speakers with only 1 amplifier are common at a budget level. Pioneer would have drastically reduced their profit margin to include a second amp for the tweeter, even though it would have improved the speaker substantially.
Essentially, the DM-40 are built like passive speakers, but the amplifier just happens to be in the chassis rather than external. Another example are the Neumi BS5P, which have a single amplifier, but do offer DSP functionality. This allows them to have a really nice response, especially with updated firmware and stuffed ports.
https://www.amazon.com/75-Watt-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers-Bluetooth/dp/B08LV4SMH9
https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/neumi_bs5p_take2/
The problem is that crossover design is complicated and makes or breaks a speaker. Without having detailed impedance and frequency response data for each driver, you can't do a proper design, and using a generic crossover can result in worse sound. Unless the speaker had no crossover to begin with, in which case anything is probably an upgrade.
That SA230 amp only puts out 156W total into 8ohms, so you'd be losing a bit of output (probably not much, though). Once you start getting too much above $200 you start approaching the realm where power amps are a better value.
If you want to future proof a bit with a bit more power, you can get something like the A800. I used the previous 600W model for a couple subs for a while and it's pretty solid. It's fanless, so no noise, and will do 400Wx2 at 4 ohms. Just keep the gain turned down for the Polk drivers and don't crank it too high.
You can also get vener or vinyl wraps which look like wood (quality varies a lot)
Self Adhesive Wood Grain Furniture Stickers PVC Wallpaper cabinets Gloss Film Vinyl Counter Top Decal 15.6''x79'' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6FFHWR/
You don't need to sauder but you need a way to connect your wires to the board. You can use something like these pins which are crimped onto the wires. This video gives a simple overview of how to do the crimping and heat shrinking. One benefit is that you can easily move the pins around on the bread board. You can also use this method to attach any tips you want. As well, the heat shrink can be used to safely join wires or protect against shorts. Downside, you still need equipment.
Love the screw terminal ones, I went with this one for faster shipping https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HQSXNST/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_3VRZG43873XZ2ED50P2Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
One last minor question; inserting the wire into the screw terminal, do I just strip the wire end and insert into there? Or is there a wire end that is like a ring shape so the screw will go through for a more secure fit?
Can't thank you enough btw, just saved me headaches and $50
the RMS is only 15 watts (at 4ohms)on that - the maximum output is 300watts - which really means nothing. Maximum output is a theoretical measurement, never will be seen in real world applications. So find an amp that puts out between 50-150 watts... might be a little bulky, but try this one (it's also four channel, but it was a quick search) https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Hydra-Marine-Amplifier-Waterproof/dp/B009IAP5OE/ref=dp\_prsubs\_1?pd\_rd\_i=B009IAP5OE&psc=1
Thanks for the suggestions! Peavy has some interesting designs, like the Escort, which is also much cheaper than some of the Bose, JBL, and QSC stuff I'm looking at online. Have you heard the quality?
I'm curious if a lot of PA systems with integrated rechargeable batteries are "overpriced" due to being able to sacrifice range, quality, and power in exchange for mobility with wireless features, which I don't need. Nonetheless, having a battery inside the speakers rather than outside of them will likely save me a lot of space and weight, so I need to research more models. What do you think of a subwoofer that is powered by a car battery, but use two internal battery-powered PA tops on a dual mount like this (https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-DP-Mount-Speaker-Cabinets/dp/B082B8N3ZF)? The sub can sit in the trailer comfortably and the tops on on a mount if I can lower them as low as possible while riding to keep center of gravity low. I can then situate an array of batteries in the remaining trailer space, as well as other hardware.
sounds like you might need this highly technical piece of equipment
You are better off spending $300 building a sub to improve the low-end.
Once you start moving up to larger woofers, the radiation pattern narrows, which causes it to no longer match the tweeter in the crossover region. This is harmful to sound quality, and is why most speakers use 5.25 or 6.5" woofers.
You can build a sealed sub with a 2ft cabinet volume that puts -3dB at 40Hz by using a pair of cheap 12" drivers in an isobaric config. Being sealed, the 12dB per octave rolloff also tends to result in an in-room response that still has audible deep bass.
https://www.parts-express.com/GRS-12PR-4-12-Paper-Cone-Rubber-Surround-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-292-820
https://www.amazon.com/AIYIMA-A07-TPA3255-Amplifier-Digital/dp/B08CJZGT6H
That amp puts out 70 watts per channel into 4 Ohms, you can wire each driver to its own channel and get 140 watts of clean output for $80.
I think you're looking for one of these.. Instead of a bearing, it just has an unsharpened nubbin on the end.
Ignore the picture of a dado; that's clearly incorrect.
Thank you! I'm sure you could, I'm using a $30 Bluetooth amp from Amazon, it has a 50w 2 speaker combo for left and right channels and a 100w sub channel, I believe these are the numbers, I'll throw the link to it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089KT3FG9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_85WPVXBJEZD6FXXVZPJF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It's served me for some many crazy projects and is still going strong, I bought it back in Oct 28 2020, I use it constantly.
Only thing is I use the wire option as I can't figure out a good and safe battery option to operate the amp. So it's only limit is it needs an outlet.
The one you linked uses two TPA3116D2 chips, one for the stereo channels and one for the sub. If you only want the sub amp out of it, here is a product with just that part: https://www.amazon.com/AOSHIKE-Subwoofer-Amplifier-amplifier-Accessories/dp/B01N5DGK37/ Use an old 19v laptop charger to power it, to keep it as cheap as possible.
I just checked, That Crown does not have an optical input? only XLR or RCA.
I will guarantee that you need a pre-amp between you computer sound card and the Crown amp input. Even a cheap $20 phono preamp may work, which are around 2 volts, car head unit preamps are generally between 2 - 7 volts.
The link below is just an example that may work but I have not personally tested like the other two I linked to in an earlier post that I know work.
I'm trying repairing a Hallmark motion+sound ornament with a Raspberry Pi Pico just using the PWM output using this setup plus a PAM8403 amplifier.
The problem is, I've got hiss and it seems to be before the amplifier. I'm no expert so I've tried adjusting my low pass with various RC values but IIRC hiss is broad-spectrum. Also, I've tried with batteries and different grounds but no dice. Any thoughts other than a dedicated DAC circuit, or do I actually have to do that?
Wire terminal ferrules. You can buy kits with the crimping tool included like this one
I've only done one kit speaker before, but I can tell you that I used all my clamps. You need clamps. You can do it all with pipe clamps like these (and appropriate lengths of black pipe):
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Gluing-Clamp-Heavy-Woodworking/dp/B07CNDQZGV/
But I found that some bar clamps that can be used with one hand will also come in handy, especially if you're doing this by yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWHT83158-Medium-Trigger-Clamp/dp/B006H94YCS/
My advice is to rehearse clamping everything together in the right order before applying any glue. One speaker at a time. Take notes. It's very difficult or impossible to unglue things, so it's worth getting it right the first time.
Thank you for answering! I really appreciate it! It's a small gallery type room, and my budget is ideally under $50 per speaker, although I could go up to 75 if necessary. I was considering getting something like this, but I've never used them before and I'm worried that they might sound very muffled/scratchy. We are trying to play dialogue primarily, if that makes a difference.
Well I've done a redesign using a different driver to save cost and make them smaller, I've kept the problematic design somewhat - I like the aesthetic! The holes for magnets is a good idea. I have a 250mm square build area on my printer. I would love to see your version if you feel the urge, here is my latest for reference: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/j1grrDEN1wp-copy-of-airstreamspeaker based around this driver: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/speaker-drivers/1345563/ You can mess with it if you like, it's a copy.
A mouthful, but I guess it's technically correct (which is the best kind of correct).
Not all titles are zingers. Some are, though: https://www.amazon.com/Bullock-Boxes-Robert-M-III/dp/096241915X
Floyd Toole's Sound Reproduction: The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms
A mouthful, I know.
If you are looking for sound quality with a budget, stay far away from tube amps. They are more expensive in every way. Also every factor that reduces the cost of a tube amp has serious draw backs in terms of accuracy.
I don’t know why you are thinking about headphone amps, throw that idea out the window. You’ll probably end up overheating the amplifier and damaging it.
Look for “solid state stereo amplifier“ Yamaha, pioneer, Onkyo all make them for 150-300. Bluetooth will add another 50-100$.
If you can’t afford that then get a SMSL or Pyle stereo amp, they will have a class D amplifier and they will have distortion at high volumes which is an issue cause they probably won’t have much power.
Hohkay!
- That amplifier (made by Sure) has a serious case of the derp. On 11.1v, you're looking at something like five watts per channel (not fifty!) into those speakers, and if it's gain-limited like my KAB215, you won't get any more on more voltage, either. Swapping for this Sanwu unit will solve your power problem, but you must run it on the full 24 volts - otherwise, it starts clipping if you turn the volume up. (A pair of 12v lead-acid cells is a tidy solution.)
- Those speakers are not efficient and have rather poor frequency response. The Dayton PA130 isn't waterproof (though like most PA drivers, it'll survive a little rain) but in a ported box will provide rather more oomph.
- Sell the first pair of speakers. Two in parallel will kill small amps.
- Find two small lead-acid batteries - 12v each. Like these.
- Attach one of these to each speaker (one left, one right) and the two batteries (in series)
- Get in trouble 'cause your speaker is too damn loud.
I'd recommend an enclosure volume of around 1/4 cubic foot per speaker with a divider between them.
the seller is SKSK on AliExpress, for the moment I'd recommend against them, as this is the conversation we've had:
HI The goods quality is bad! To apply for a refund reason, please choose: buyers don't want to buy! thank you! To apply for a refund reason, please choose: Other reasons !Buyers don't want to buy!thank you!
what do you mean? you are not able to send anything at all?
Hi, my friend.Your goods has been sent out,If there is something wrong with the receipt of the goods,Please do not submit dispute,Please contact us.We first give you processing, thank you
Looks like they're trying to rip me off, basically asking me to refuse the transaction while it was their fault. And then suddenly they just ship, without mentioning the "bad quality of the goods". Mah. I'll just wait to see what gets delivered to my door...
I have one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QY5HCH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have not installed it yet, I have some parts I am getting 3d printed and I wan to see how they fit before installing the grill
HEPAI 12 Pack Metal Box Corner Protector Vintage Brass Decorative Edge Safety Bumpers Decor Furniture Corner Hardware https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08CVCHPTP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_8SY5CSWF6BC9HJ5FS3FK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This sounds about right.
Mackie 802VLZ4: https://www.amazon.ca/Mackie-802VLZ4-8-Channel-Compact-Mixer/dp/B00EDHWLFI
Pan your guitar and vocals hard left / right respectively and send to FOH, and use the aux to monitor yourself and the return channel from the main mixer.
If you want to power each speaker with its own amplifier, you could get something like a Emotiva A4. Or you could go with cheap ChiFi from Amazon and e.g. get two Aiyima A07 amplifiers from Amazon.
I don't think I can post links to youtube, but in a video titled "How to make a DIY Spring Reverb" the author says he is using a pt2399 mic reverb preamp board (example) on the pickup end of his diy reverb unit; maybe that is the secret ingredient?
I am going with a board amp too so should not be much different. Glad to hear that you have not had any heat issues.
What's the length of the horn? Take that and multiply it by 4, then divide 343meters by that distance. So if it's 70cm then 343÷(0.07×4)= 1225 will be the lower bound of frequencies (1.2kHz) that you'll be able to reproduce with the horn. This is rough, the horn mouth may make the "acoustic length" longer than the physical length.
Based on the images of that horn from a quick google search, you'll absolutely need a woofer and NOT a subwoofer to pair with the horn. Then a crossover to split the frequencies between the two.
Then add in an amp+bluetooth module like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08ZKNFM52/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_BHR7CPA54AZD8EM1RKPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (just searched "chip amp board with bluetooth" and this looks okay)
Should I try them on the power + speaker cables?
https://www.amazon.com/Jabinco-20pcs-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07ZQZQ5BQ/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=imple+ferrite+beads+speakers&qid=1633995171&sr=8-2
something like this?
I setup a bike trailer speaker system setup. There are two JBL EON610s (these are powered speakers), one Bestek Pure Sine Wave 500W inverter, one 60ah lithium battery, and one esinkin bluetooth receiver (this receives music signal from my phone and out put 1/4 inch left and right to each speaker).
I thought that the buzzing sound would be fixed by using a pure sine inverter but this did not solve it.
Any ideas on how to debug this sort of thing?
Sounds like it would work great.
You're paying a premium for those amps, I might suggest an automotive amp with a 12v power supply instead, looks like it'd be a ton cheaper without an diminishing quality.
Or better yet, you can just get a cheap Amazon 5 channel amp and replace your current one. Something like this might be perfect with this as a power supply. I'd probably swap out the fan on the PSU though.
Also you can use this type of cable to connect from bottom to top enclosure.
Use the digital optics out. Here you go: Digital Optical Coax to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable RCA Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B9JR1N7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6ZJZS3DB4NGFQYYN2704?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stereo-20W-Class-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B00SK8OH30
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Would something like this suffice? and if so that would be the only thing i need? and of course a soldering kit, but if so i might give it a go!
Plenty of powered gear has a low noise floor, Klipsch is just notoriously stingy about their entry level products.
To be brutally honest, it is time to cut your losses. Some $100 bookshelf speakers will perform much better. Buy an old AV receiver and use that for power + subwoofer high-pass. Plenty of them sell for $50-100 just because they lack modern HDMI support.
https://www.amazon.com/NEUMI-BS5-Passive-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07YZDS9LF
This has the right voltage, but I'm not 100% sure on the barrel size.
You need a 36v 1.5+ amp power supply, so there aren't a wide variety of chargers with multiple adapters.
I would try the Amazon one and if it doesn't fit, adjust barrel size accordingly with either an adapter or new one.
Here's a kit from HiVi on Amazon. I've heard good things about them.
HiVi - DIY 2.2A - DIY Speaker Kit - 2-Way Bookshelf Speakers Near-Field Use - Compact Wooden Cabinet - Pair - Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B072KTZ2VC/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_VM4FNJA5MWGXSE4RPFG1
Did this myself to switch between HT receiver and my reference 2-channel system in the same room with one pair of speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT
I made a set with veneering too. I have this rabbit bit set with different bearings. Before I applied the veneering, i setup the rabbit bit to match the amount I needed to take off. I choose a bearing that was slightly smaller then wrapped tape around the bearing to get the exact diameter I needed. Put on the veneering and ran the rabbit around the hole.
Whiteside Router Bits 1960 Deep Multi Rabbet Set Carbide Tipped 1-7/8-Inch Large Diameter and 1-Inch Cutting Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2AEFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NR5Y0TA8KJTBR1QZ2M6R
I have the same speaker configuration (2.1) and I control the master volume using a USB audio interface with it's own volume knob. Windows audio level remains at 100% at all times and sub/satellite EQ and respective levels also remain preset for the most part.
My amp. Don't be put off by how cheap it seems, it sounds great and has speaker level out for sub and independent control for bass volume. Then there's separate bass/treble controls for the satellites. All of this, once configured, allows me to raise the master volume using my audio interface which raises the levels coming out of the amp at an equal rate.
Search for "Class D chip amp" to see what else is available if you'd rather get something better.
Any USB ASIO audio interface with a volume control (technically an attenuator) will work. I've got a Presonus which was quite expensive but Behringer make some very cheap usable interfaces like this.
Maybe something like this. In all seriousness though I would probably start with a speaker kit and just research what every component is along the way. There's only really three parts used in a crossover, they can just be used a few different ways.
This is non trivial and no one can tell you how to make a crossover. It's highly complicated and requires basic electrical knowledge, math, software modeling, knowledge in cabinet building, measurement equipment and so on.
Do not buy a pre-built crossover. It wont work right. You can potentially damage your speakers, amp etc. You could even cause a fire.
If you really want to know start reading: https://www.amazon.com/Introduction-Loudspeaker-Design-John-Murphy-ebook/dp/B00J7ZULIA
Otherwise, just find a well known center channel kit and use that.
This is great, also just to add, as someone that’s seen subs in cabinets before, do yourself a favor and go ahead and order something like this to help keep door rattle to a minimum when it happens.
Crossovers are included in the kit (which is available on Amazon), but they are not assembled. The nice thing about this kit is that crossover PCB's are included, so all it takes is you putting the components in the right spots and soldering the leads in. It is very straightforward. They also made assembly videos that walk you through the entire process of building this kit. It was a fun project for my son and I!
LOC = line out converter. Sometimes amps will accept high level input, but usually a LOC is used. If you disconnect the RCA cables from the amp and the static goes away, it's the LOC introducing noise or a problem with the factory head unit.
LOCs don't need to be fancy, but a cheap one can cause headaches. A high end LOC would be something like an Audiocontrol LC2i but something like this should work without all of the bells and whistles of the LC2i. There are also OEM integration solutions like AR Maestro that I used in my truck to keep the stock head unit and replace the amps, but those are a PITA to install.
Soldering is easy enough. Watch a few youtube videos and go with flux lead solder (Sn40 Pb60) instead of lead free to save you a world of pain as a beginner.
> How did you fit the panels together?
Wood glue and clamps only. Screwless makes edge routing and painting easier, also screws are 100% unnecessary.
> To move them to the outside
I desolder the connectors from the PCB and add a cable in between. It's also how I move the volume pot for most amps where the volume pot is soldered directly on the PCB. I don't think you can do simply an extension cable for the 3,5mm as the board senses when a cable is plugged in and will switch to that input.
> should I get a more powerful amp?
No, the amp is already overpowered for the two ND-65 so you should be good.
> XL4016 inside the speakers
Definitely inside, near the charge port. I usually put it on the inside of the back lid. Having it outside would be a mess to get pretty. It doesn't really weigh anything.
For both XL4016 and XL6009 I mean the pre-built boards, like this. 4016 can do more power than 6009 and is good for charging the batteries.
How high are your expectations for this project?
Do you expect it to sound anywhere near as good as the systems the drivers came from? Do you expect a system that you would want to listen to on a regular basis?
Or are you just messing around for fun and to maybe learn a thing or two and don't really case about the results?
If it's the former, you are going to be disappointed. You would be much better off building a kit as your first project.
If it's the latter, carry on. It's not really a "watch some youtube videos" kind of subject though. You are going to need to read some books. Here's a good one to get you started.
you need three of these, a switch, solder, and a box.
so i’m using this amp
DAMGOO 50W+50W+100W 2.1 Channel Subwoofer Amplifier Board with Treble and Bass Control, Dual TPA3116 Chip, DC 12-24V, Bluetooth and AUX Inputs, DIY Wireless Speakers AMP Board, Password Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089KT3FG9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CbjNFb8Q41TQ7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
and i’m using a 100watt speaker from a gateway subwoofer system, and i plan to throw these speakers inside the box also, maybe even another pair of the same ones to make a good portable system.
i’m new to this stuff, but would that be possible, i also still need to find a portable power source for this system.
I'll get this instead https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-NS-03G-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Version/dp/B072KDNW3F/
I believe so. Use the 3.5mm input. I would get this cable
AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8JW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Fr3MFbSXD9JCS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And this one to split your mono sub output on your receiver so both channels of the amp get a signal.
RCA (M) to 2 RCA (F) Stereo Audio Y Adapter Subwoofer Cable (24k Gold Plated) 1 Male to 2 Female Y Splitter Connectors Extension Cord (20CM/0.5FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z69XCN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_As3MFbBXKGFN6
Then just hook the sub up to the 2 speakers outputs. Left to left and right to right but it doesn’t really matter since it’s mono.