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"This new item picks up all of your Nerf darts! It has an adjustable, ergonomic handles and a built in basket that catches all of your darts."
"The Dart Rover helps pick up toy darts "Adjustable, ergonomic handle no batteries needed"
Showed up on amazon a couple of weeks ago, i thought it was another codename like how the "python motorised" was the MA40, until seeing bulldog be the actual name in game.
Assuming you are referring to 9V batteries like these, that will actually be a downgrade from normal AA cells, as 9 V batteries are actually a 6 pack of AAAA batteries.
While the voltage sound like it would be higher, AAAA are even worse than AA cells at delivering current, which is what is responsible for spinning motors up to speed. Thus, the motors will spin up even slower, and the voltage will sag massively.
​
If you intend to run that extra foot of Faux barrel, you'll pretty much need to rewire for a lipo or NiMH pack to get any reasonable performance.
If you are just looking for a no-effort mod, Eneloops are the safest way to do so. Their much higher current capabilities mean that they'll outperform even D alkaline cells, which are what Hasbro use to power their more powerful blasters, and they're pretty inexpensive to boot
Alright, fellow gear geeks and tacti-cool foam-flinging unicorns, here's a PSA about a molle-mountable shotgun scabbard that I found on Amazon. Link for reference:
Because I'm a dork, I am building a somewhat over-the-top loadout, and next on my list was a back-mounted scabbard for a tertiary blaster, preferably shotgun-esq. I selected this particular one after some research on size and retention. This one was also designed for short shotguns, which led me to believe that it would work better with blaster-sized items than the other, larger options available.
Unfortunately, as shown in the photos, the size is a smidge too small. I tested it with multiple blasters, but none of them fit comfortably enough for a smooth mid-battle draw. The closest fit was the Liberator, but it was still tight. All the pump action blasters needed to be printed prior to insertion, or else risk improper priming and jams.
I will be returning this one (hooray for Amazon) and trying again with a different blaster scabbard. If anyone is interested, I can post results here. Thank you for coming to my TED Talk
EDIT: Oh yeah, photos. I point out some high-tension address on the grips that cause binding during insertion and extraction. Various blasters shown.
Longstrike Nerf Modulus Toy Blaster with Barrel Extension, Bipod, Scopes, 18 Modulus Elite Darts & 3 Six-Dart Clips (Amazon Exclusive) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3KS1B8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NtLiCb5M1SX8V
Alternatorlink and Talon link too
You're on the right track. NiMH is a perfectly viable alternative to LiPo pouches. Look for a 7.2 nimh sub-c pack instead of AA cells however, such as this one. Those sub-c cells will have a lot more current capabilities then an AA. Replace the connector with an xt60/deans, and you'll get all the performance of a lipo, with no safety issues.
9.6v nimh packs are also a thing, and work acceptably for an 3S li-ion replacement, but a 6S NiMH pack much more closely aligns with 2S li-ion voltage than an 8S NiMH pack aligns with 3S li-ion voltage, so I'd start there. 9S NiMH packs in a good size are hard to find sadly.
Other alternatives is LiFePo4, which is available in 18650 cylindrical format/pouches, and high current 18650 cells in general.
But the simplest and easiest thing is to just grab a 7.2v sub-c NiMH pack and velcro it to the side of your blaster, then use any good motor designed for 7-8V, like M2s and 3240s. No safety issues, all the performance, downside is size and weight.
Amazon has official Nerf 18s for $6.
Otherwise, try NFStrike / Lightake / Aliexpress for aftermarket mags? I like this style personally.
Currently $20 on Amazon when you get the frustration free packaging
Hah that makes scents. Here is the Walmart SKU: 54000503. There is a better pic of the rampagliator keychain on the website. 5 Star rating... I imagine a Coop review is forthcoming.
Apologies if this has been mentioned before, but I thought this looked pretty cool and proves that Hasbro is actually listening to us...
pictures: https://www.instagram.com/p/-LQSyoNJUs/?taken-by=nerfgunattachments
I've got it up on Cults3d and I'm selling pre-printed physical versions as well. Just getting started in Nerf mods but it's a blast so far.
So much for being a Costco Exclusive. But at least at Costco, it's $87.99 and comes with all the batteries you need. Edit: Added a link for proof.
http://www.costco.com/Nerf-N-Strike-Elite-Rhino-Fire-Blaster-%2526-Bonus-Pack.product.100220368.html
Could it be the dart holder from this? Chewbacca crossbow Based on some images it can come off and the shell has 2 holes that line up about with the 2 pegs on the dart holder are
captain xavier recently did a video about rival/hir.and he vouched for some by XC SOURCE i think they were called? beat the mainline companies for accuracy by a mile.
It largely depends on how pro-active you are in both recovering/sorting out your darts and marking your darts to be a bit more unique. If you're feeling particularly tired after an all-day game, the answer is basically 0%. If you're more active, you can definitely recover 100% of your darts or darts very similar to yours.
Also note that 100 darts for $10 is a bit of a rip-off. You can get 200 Little Valentines for $11 shipped if you have Amazon Prime: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LSA551E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm fairly sure that you keep hunting for dart deals, you can definitely find 200 waffles for $6 to $8. No matter what, still cheaper than buying standard Nerf darts.
From the same company.. A Nitron/Praxis abomination that shoots darts, the long-awaited knockoff that nobody wanted.
> I did not sand The blaster down as many people said it wasn't necessary
It's not, but it does provide more adhesion for the paint. Did you fully wash it down and let it dry?
Clear coating is the answer. I've never tried this, but my SO uses this for her craft stuff: https://www.amazon.ca/Mod-Podge-Acrylic-Sealer-1469/dp/B003VY9DNM
I'll echo the recommendation for a drain blaster. This is the type I've seen modded into blasters a lot:
Hammershot -$15US on amazon.
Elite Spectre -$50US on amazon.
About 1/5 of the price of this haul.
Amazon is love, Amazon is life.
I have a nearly identical LOOKING holographic sight at home, it was $18 on Amazon. Not sure if it's the same,. It looks damn close.
Feyachi Reflex Sight - Adjustable Reticle (4 Styles) Both Red and Green in one Sight! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HPWATOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QTlSCbN3FC774
Does it have to be a revolver? I'm a big fan of the Buzzbee Reaper, currently $5.26 at walmart.com.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Buzz-Bee-Toys-Air-Warriors-Ultra-Tek-Reaper/105992039
Ignore the first picture of the Gem 2-pack.
Sure, it's already out:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Adventure-Force-Enforcer-Belt-Blaster/52130704
Extra 40 round belts here:
http://dartzoneblasters.com/shop/accessories/enforcer-ammo-belt-and-refill-pack/
Are MonkeeMods and OFP related or in some sort of agreement? The OFP Thingiverse has their cages licensed as 'Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike', but MonkeeMods is printing and selling them.
(Don't downvote me I'm just trying to learn what the situation is in case I want to buy one of these cages.)
They probably are having problems, they just don't have the right instruments or know what to look for.
Assuming they just twisted the thermistor and didn't rewire the blaster, hopefully the stock wiring gives out before the cells.
If they replaced the wiring or it proves unusually resilient, then the damage from the motors is going to accumulate until the battery springs heat up too much, anneal, and stop providing compression, or until the batteries violently enter thermal runaway.
​
I would strongly recommend NiMH batteries instead, like these Eneloops (Amazon may not be the right source, given the price and lack of stock, but it should hopefully get you pointed in the right direction). They're far more stable than li-ion cells (especially when overdrawn like our applications will) and able to output far more current than Alkaline cells.
If you want a performance bump, swapping out for faster-wound motors like Honeybadgers should get you in the 90-100 fps range (IIRC, Blaster Time is a good source of mod supplies in Europe). I'd highly recommend a rewire at the same time, since all that current will probably fry the stock wiring.
https://www.amazon.com/Nerf-C3583F07-Modulus-Stryfe/dp/B06XWF6NYW
The Modulus Stryfe has been in very inconsistent supply. I'm not sure whether that's due to high demand or low production run, but up until about a week ago they were sold out. Then they were back on for a few days and sold out again, and now there's 1 up as a used from amazon warehouse ( I just bought the second one).
Bottom line, it's basically still sold out.
Well lets start with this...how much are you willing to spend? Because heres a modulus stryfe for less than 30
Also, why does it have to be ordered thru amazon?
Amazon, if you just want to keep performance stock then a 7.2v NiMH battery pack and a connector will do (that's all the rival pack is at the end of the day).
Kronos. Indoors with the balls or even short outdoor usage, the balls have a higher fps to start if neither are modded and I think will be more satisfying.
Edit - amazon has the kronos for $11.54 right now https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072MPBT4J/
The modulus version is only $30; that's about the best you can do for a stryfe at retail these days. There are some reports of issues with the stock wiring, so I'd strongly recommend a rewire or a different blaster, but it's a decent price.
You can also see if you can thrift one or get one off of craigslist for cheaper, especially if you plan to rewire it anyway.
I'd recommend NiMH cells instead. Eneloops are considered the best cells, and you can pick up a 4 pack with a charger on Amazon for $18.
They perform better than alkalines and are rechargeable, so you'll save money in the long run (especially in blasters that use C or D cells).
​
Rechargeable 14500 (AA-sized) Li-ion cells aren't safe to use in stock blasters, as the motors will draw too much current for them. NiMH are much more stable, so they can handle the high current demands.
For a 13 year old brother I'd say slingfire. It's easier to prime, looks cool, and he can try and do flip-priming with it for extra style points.
As far as mods and upgrades go it's basically useless, though, so when he outgrows it he'll need a new blaster (which is fine IMO, I'm not even a fan of the retaliator despite it being pretty good for modding).
If you can find a buzzbee sentinel, that's the best of both worlds - Flip priming rifle with a similar body shape, dirt cheap even compared to the slingfire, but oh good lord you can mod that thing into a single-shot monster.
Still disagree, just look at a Nerf 75 pack (bulk by Nerf standards) and a 500 or 1000 round pack of most other ammos.
http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2014/04/18/ammo-prices-4182014/
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Nerf-N-Strike-Elite-75-Dart-Refill-Pack/20975672
Thank you! To answer your questions:
-The reason it is only a 3 turret Maverick is because I did not design the .stl, all credit goes to a user on thingiverse who goes by thedubiousbean. It could be designed though.
-The cylinders lock fairly easy. It took some babying to get some parts in the right place to do so, but they lock fine, and I would feel comfortable using in a war.
-I have no plans to do so. If I wanted that, I would probably just make a quad flipfury and save the hassle of a large internal mechanism to flip them.
-Again, I did not make these, the .stl can be found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:508503 and the instructions I followed http://m.instructables.com/id/18-Shot-Nerf-Maverick/
Local Goodwill or charity shop.
cheapest 18 round I found on Ali Express.
~~Same but for 12 rounds.~~ Apparently these don't fit right.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007UT3OFC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2ROETNUHHJTQ0&psc=1super accurate and pretty budget friendly. I use this with my nexus pro and my overall accuracy at 80 feet is about 90% (with a stronger spring and scope reticle adjustment)
My next attempt finally arrived. I immediately figured out how to attach it to the back of my kit, and began the process of fitting and testing different blasters and arrangements.
It comes with all sorts of different buckles, handles, straps, etc that are all removable. I've taken them all off in the photos in order to use it strictly as a scabbard.
I think this one is going to be the winner for me. It's got a firm shell with padding on the inside to protect my blasters, and has an extendable length if I end up running a long-barrel DMR backup rather than a shotgun. There are several other blasters that I tested that did not fit, including the Mega Twinshock, and the Elite Trilogy. The zombiestrike Sledgefire also fits in beautifully, but I ran out of space for photos.
The weight of the blaster in the scabbard can sometimes pull the back of my kit down, requiring me to pull down on the front of my vest and bring the grip of the blaster into reach for me to draw. It was a very minor issue that was only noticeable once or twice during my runaround testing. Another solution would be to adjust the fit of my vest to be a bit tighter.
I will not have any complete verdict on the product until I get to run it in a war, but as far as my basement tacti-cool hardcore parkour, it performs fantastically. Would recommend for those looking for a MOLLE-mountable blaster scabbard. Possibly too big for most people's use. Could be value found in using the shoulder strap to carry as an accessory, rather than a mounted attachment.
If you really want to go down this path, I'd recommend Eneloops instead of Alkaline AAs. They're rechargeable, so you can save even more money and waste in the long run, they're NiMH, so they're safer than any of the other sketchy li-ion cells that bad youtube mod videos recommend while also being more powerful than Alkaline AAs, so they should ostensibly be able to keep up with (or maybe surpass) Alkaline C, though they'll have a lower capacity.
You need M2 Flat Countersunk Screws
Order the M2x4mm ones. Hope this answers your question :)
Just order the welt-makers by Yosoo from Amazon.
200 for ~$14.
They seem to fly faster and straighter than the stock, and the harder tips impart a little sting to encourage improved evasion skills.
Those look like Voberries, which are knock-off elites. They can have foam quality problems depending on seller, usually too thick.
Elite darts, overall, are pretty crappy, and so are Voberries. I don't recommend them.
Get one of these-
Koosh is a highly accurate, good foam quality, soft tipped, inexpensive dart. They cost around 9.5 cents a dart.
6MILES Double-X is a highly accurate, good foam quality, soft tipped, inexpensive dart. They cost around 9.3 cents a dart, 5.6 cents a dart if you have Amazon Prime at the moment.
I've recently bought this from amazon. Reviews seem pretty good in comparison to Dremels, but there are a lot more reviews.
Edit: it's also 15 dollars, 20 with the flex shaft. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8DXKXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bigshocks are $7.96 on Amazon right now. I haven't been in a physical store that hasn't had them in quite a while, either. They're pretty easy to get your hands on for a low price.
The classic cheap recommendation for mag holders is the VISM NcStar AK Chest Rig. Costs around $20 shipped if you have Amazon Prime ($16 shipped if you're willing to buy the used Camo from Amazon Warehouse Deals) and can fit six 18 dart stick mags just fine. It even has side pouches that you can use to store a Hammershot:
https://www.amazon.com/VISM-NcStar-Chest-CVAKCR2921B-Black/dp/B005G0FADG/?th=1
As for dump pouches, this pouch has been working out pretty well for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WUDRN0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
IMO, the $8 FalconFire on Amazon is pretty cool.
The *Fire line of blasters (not to be confused with the line of awful batteries) have pretty awesome catches that can take something ridiculous like 15+kg, and the FalconFire is, IMO, the most comfortable shell of the family. Chris Cartaya has done some pretty awesome things with SharpFires, including the MauserFire, a Katana-fed brassed SharpFire that can punch well above 150 fps.
Chris has said that the FalconFire has a tighter barrel, which is good for stock performance, but make it a little bit harder to brass properly. I'm curious to see if I can use the extra plastic under the barrel to support a katana magwell, and if I can print some supports to hold a brass barrel and/or a scar barrel in the faux barrel.
These kind of darts. Notice how they've got cavities formed between the ridges, kinda like a waffle? It's tenuous, but it's catchy and easy to remember, so it stuck.
Do note, those were found with a quick Amazon search; while the price is not bad (and much better than official Hasbro darts), you can find even cheaper darts that should still work just as well.
Cheer up, horusrogue. We still get insane amazon deals every now and then. Buy yourself an evader and put on a smile :D https://www.amazon.ca/Nerf-Modulus-Ghost-Ops-Evader/dp/B076JCQFD2/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1_sspa?keywords=nerf+evader&qid=1553628818&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1
It seems to be on amazon uk, just temporarily out of stock https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nerf-E6163EU5-Zombie-NAILBITER-Multicolour/dp/B07KQQVV7N/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Nerf+Nailbiter&qid=1562591226&s=gateway&sr=8-1
These?
https://www.amazon.com/Wolftop-Refill-Bullet-N-Strike-Blasters/dp/B06ZZP7J7C
Photos for third party sellers on Amazon are unreliable, but they look like hard tips. Those are generally banned by Nerf groups these days.
This may sound obvious, but does the blaster display the same behavior with alkaline batteries? If it does not, I have heard that you can get adapters that hold more than 1 AA battery, which has the batteries in parallel, which increases available current while leaving voltage the same. You might want to invest in some of those.
​
These ones are an option on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/WINOMO-Battery-Adapters-Converter-Cases/dp/B00YBINZMM
However, it might be that the Infinus is just finicky about voltages, as you are slightly undervolting it, in theory.
If you don't want the shells, don't buy the Hawk. There are other Buzz Bee products which work almost the same while taking regular clips. https://www.walmart.com/ip/The-Walking-Dead-Andrea-s-Rifle-Zombie-Blaster/54372365
Download this thingy LINK and send an email to SlyDev with the attached file.
Be sure to include the number of printed shells you would like produced, which of the 22-23 colors (one of the colors is out of stock) you would like the shells to be, and ask how much it would cost (plus shipping to where you live).
You should probably add a https://creativecommons.org/licenses/ if you haven't already (I didn't see one in the google drive).
Probably want
Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike CC BY-NC-SA
This license lets others remix, tweak, and build upon your work non-commercially, as long as they credit you and license their new creations under the identical terms.
If you want to reserve the right to do a revshare with anybody selling those designs.
If you don't care about that, probably
Attribution-ShareAlike CC BY-SA
Place a minimum order, 240 six shot pistols for under $600, roughly $2.50 each.
If you have any for sale after the wedding make a post on /r/NerfExchange, I'm sure people would love to buy these goofy things.
Shotgun cylinder
Swapper bit.
Technically not break-action, but swaps cylinders just fine, that is, if you can get some printer time.
(spring upgrade recommended)
All the stock electronics should be perfectly fine for the battery connector most packs use a different kind of connector. For example this one uses a KET connector but some use an xt-60 or a deans connector. Essentially you would disconnect the wires from the existing battery terminal and solder on a new one depending on what battery you get.
https://www.amazon.com/Powerextra-Rechargeable-Connectors-Compatiable-Helicopter/dp/B01DZACEUA/
The general rule is 17/32" for springers, 9/16" for airguns.
For most blasters you just need a length of 17/32" as long as the dart (~3"). You only really mess with longer brass barrels when you have a lot of power (airguns, high volume springers, etc).
Also, you're going to have trouble finding brass at Home Depot. Here's some Amazon links:
https://www.amazon.com/Engineering-32x12-Round-Brass-Tube/dp/B002N7RPHY
https://www.amazon.com/Round-Brass-Tube-16-Carded/dp/B00FZS2618
You can also find it on McMaster, or supposedly in hobby stores.
Flip Clip on Amazon is only $11.99 at the moment, and you can take them apart to get 2x 12 round magazines.
Most Hasbro 12 and 18 rounders work great.
Lightake or NFStrike mags are decent, I have the 12 rounders and like them a lot.
Personally, the best cheap mags are used Hasbro 18 rounders, and HOSIM 18 dart magazines on Amazon.
The Eliminator has a big plunger tube, though it needs to be modded to make it work as well it should. It can be modded to fire 2 darts at once as well, so it becomes basically a shotgun.
They still sell these on Amazon though.
I personally use clear Poly tubing from amazon for my barrels. It's a hair larger ID than cpvc, great for stefans and half lengths but a bit too tight for stock darts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OMJ4YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm guessing they will restock at some point, but it may not be for a few months. You'll have to watch your cart like a hawk.
In the meantime, if you're willing to order from overseas, Amazon UK has OJ Stryfes for about AUD $41-45 each delivered if you order a bunch of them: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01GPOL4UO
The most commonly modified flywheel (electronic) blaster is the Stryfe. They're in somewhat short supply right now, but the Modulus version is a few bucks more for the same blaster with a foregrip and barrel attachment.
If you want to look at spring-powered blasters, start with a Retaliator, which is commonly available so you can probably find it slightly cheaper than Amazon.
Regardless of which you go with, there are tons of aftermarket kits and parts for both and lots of online tutorials. With the Retaliator you also have the option of going old-school and making parts out of brass tubing, PVC, etc.
Most of it can be found on amazon:
- MJVO-3 3-Way Valve, Normally-Open, 1/8" NPT
-1/4'' OD tubing
-1/8'' NPT male and female connectors
-HPA tank with SLP regulator
-second stage regulator with at least a 300 maximum input psi (not on amazon, check paintball stores. Mine was second hand off ebay)
-paintball remote line quick disconnect (male and female)
-some good epoxy
-XBZ tank (ebay)
-1'' PVC end cap and 1'' inch PVC pipe for modifying your XBZ tank
-you'll also need a drill, dremel, and something to tighten down your NPT connectors
​
I also used COBBA Crazy's youtube channel a lot. He has a video breaking down how he made his LPA/HPA longstrike and it's super helpful and pretty straightforward.
yup, as a matter of fact, that specific kind of rig is often recommended as the most affordable chest rig for nerf you can get. just be forwarned, banana mags might not fit as efficiently as stick mags or PMags. if you look into worker's 12 and 15 dart PMags, they hold 14 and 16 darts respectively and have a less steep curve.
EDIT: i would also like to suggest a battle belt i found on amazon for about the same price as the rig and they compliment each other quite well, it has suspenders so the weight isnt sitting squarely on your waist
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015C4TYUU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
there's a bundle on amazon at £32, but i can't tell if its "temporarily out of stock" or "actually cancelled but we haven't removed the listing"
The pinpoint sight is almost incredible to get. It's discontinued and the few existing ones are traded at a very high price (except you have a giant load of luck and get it from someone who has no idea about it's worth).
Get the element action kit and keep your eyes on marketplaces in forums and keep an eye on..i don't know...craiglist? I'm not from the US, but I heard about it and it seems to be a place where people sell their used stuff.
You can also mount picatinny and weaver fitting accessoires like red dot sights and stuff (you should be able to get them for about 15 to 20 bucks).
You are asking the wrong question here.
The current draw is dependent on the resistance of the load (in this case the rayven's motors and circuitry). The problem with your typical 9volt is that they have very high internal resistance. This causes the whole circuit to draw less current.
In your typical DC motor, more voltage = more speed, while more current = more torque. As you increase voltage across your motor, you decrease current.
So you can hook up a small 9v battery up in a rayven and it should get about the same speed as a 9v RC battery, it's not going to have as much torque. This is going to affect how quickly your motors spin up, and how much they slow down after launching a dart.
In a Rayven specifically, your usual duracell type 9v battery is not going to be a good choice. It will work in a pinch, but you just wont get enough torque to use it to it's full potential. It will also likely die on you fairly quickly (as mine did during a recent HvZ game).
I would recommend the trustfires, people seem to have good luck with them. I have only played around with mine a bit so far. But as a warning, those can be very dangerous if you aren't charging them properly. As in "oh god, my nerf gun is on fire" type dangerous. So be sure you read up and know what you are doing.
If this scares you off, you could always just make an enclosure for a few more AA's and wire that up in series with the stock batteries. Wiring in series adds the voltages together, so 6 AA's will be 9 volts (fun fact, a 9v battery is actually just a container with a 6 small batteries inside). This will have a lower resistance than the 9v, and will last a heck of a lot longer as well.
Don't mean to be a dick about it but objectively speaking $40 is a lot to spend on a rehashed stryfe. A stryfe is the standard semi-auto flywheel blaster from nerf usually for $20 new (sometimes less). At the $40 price point it is a lot of money for very literally bang (pun intended).
If you have no intention in modding (opening up your blaster, soldering, replacing parts, spending even more money, cutting parts out of your blaster) I would have to suggest spending a little bit more and getting a hyperfire instead. It is a full auto blaster that performs relatively well in stock form for about an extra $7 at walmart.
Even if you have no intention of running full auto I'll suggest something like the desolator instead for $30.
Well, challenges don't have to be force on force. You can 3d print some target stands (or use other targets) and set up a nerf IPSC course. Be sure to to blue print the distances, shooting positions, size of targets, and blasters in the course set up. Then, challenge the interwebs via youtube videos.
Germany representing! :) Please see my other comment for information where I got this beast.
We all had to start somewhere! Here's a stefan (the black one): http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FKL/HKNH/F0X1RV5C/FKLHKNHF0X1RV5C.MEDIUM.jpg
They're shorter darts with a weighted front and fly much better than stock darts in modded blasters. Here is a decent guide on how to make them: http://nerfguns.org/how-to-make-your-own-nerf-darts-stefans
Full writeup here!
*Of note, this was built for a class, and as to not get in trouble, the final two lines of code to actually fire the cannon were left out. The original plan was to complete it over the summer, but covid happened and my university still has b.a.k.i. in a storage unit :(
But that's ok! Because project: b.a.k.i. was always meant to be a first pass for the actual Project: B.A.K.I. [Full Spec], which I've been teasing in the last few days' posts.
Not many people have made 3D-printed Nerf blasters, but it has been done. Here are some more.
I got lucky - a while back I bought something like 5 or so 5'x5' sheets from a certain surplus store on clearance at a buck a piece because I thought they'd be handy to have around. Guess I was right :D
I am not a lawyer either. According to Gnarwhale Studios, the core ruleset is released under a Creative Commons BY-NC-SA 4.0 license. Creative Commons means anyone can alter the work. BY means "attribute alterations to original creator". NC means "distribute noncommercially". SA means "share any altered work with the same, unaltered license as this work has." As such: anything derived from HVZ cannot legally be made for profit.
Gnarwhal's execution of the license is a corner case: they only want to enforce it when it's on the "humans vs. zombies" brand. We benefit from that, and from their mostly lax enforcement of the license in other departments, but the legalese still stands. Altering the game to try to make money off it is against the explicit wishes of the original creators.
It was a birthday gift, and didnt really check the demensions, here is a link to it though: https://www.amazon.ca/Wall-Control-Pegboard-Standard-Storage/dp/B00BSZJE4E/ref=sr_1_32?dchild=1&keywords=pegboard&qid=1630888509&sr=8-32
Pen voltage testers work for AC. In order to check the charge of a battery, you'll need a voltmeter that makes contact with both terminals, such as this miltimeter. You can get testers in the form factor of a pen plus wire (such as this one) if that's your preference, but you still need to make contact with both terminals of the battery being tested.
No problem. Short term, you may consider using Eneloops as drop-in upgrades. Don't use 14500 IMRs as some outdated Youtube videos will suggest, they're usually dangerous.
If you're only using rival rounds, something like this will save you a huge amount of time and back pain bending over and picking up rounds individually...
Doesn't have to be this particular brand, just an example, and you can pick up something similar at a local hardware store.
Lol auto correct sleeping pad
https://www.alpinetrek.co.uk/base-camp/self-inflating-sleeping-mats/
https://www.amazon.com/Westminster-Self-Inflating-Whoopee-Cushion-Assorted/dp/B001EA206M
Both of them are basically plastic bags with foam inside of them that Force the bag to self-inflate
So here's what I know, you can buy adapters 4 different batteries of power tool makes. If I can find a link I'll post it.
Edit - this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HKXX199/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_D7RGC9H4ZEMRJMR3N28F
Zi-Rui 3D Printer PLA Filament, Rainbow Multi Color Gradient,1.75 mm,Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 600G(1.3lbs) Spool. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTH4666/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_731JMHAHREV4QS2ZGY2S
This one, but they seem to have issues with the color provided vs advertised expectations. Prints very well, and has an amazing metallic shine though.
I mainly ment the older longstrike or the new modulus one I think this kit will work with both though. Anyway this is basically the best kit for the longstrike not sure if it could hit 200 but it'll get you the closest without a ton of effort. As for accuracy you'll want a scar barrel they're all pretty similar as long as it's made for the barrel your using but if go with 6 strings or and adjustable one so it doesn't hurt performance too much. https://www.amazon.com/WORKER-Short-LongStrike-Modifiy-Complete/dp/B083R7P2DP
Some Teflon tape under the bigger O-ring should do the trick.
Skylety Thread Seal Tapes, PTFE Pipe Sealant Tape (1/2 by 520 Inches, White, 10 Rolls) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DRG24D5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KEF7S53HQRC3BZQ9K6M7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There’s a hardware list on the Etsy. Aside from a barrel, something like this will be enough for multiple spamfs.
Try this Babolat tennis racquet bag.
I use this specific tennis bag as a quiver for all my foam bow needs. Nerf DP, Faux Bow Pro, and Faux Real arrows; it fits like twenty of each kind easily.
I just ordered a second roll to make sure I have a little extra I love the look and it prints well at 240 C /70 C
AA's are just a tad longer than C cells.
You can get some AAA to C adapters... but you'll probably have to put at least 3 AAA cells in each adapter, so it'll get really expensive, really quickly.
https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Parallel-Battery-Adapter-12/dp/B00OUM1KKI
12 for $11 plus the cost of all the AAA cells you're going to put in the adapters.
I'd get some rechargeable batteries their expensive at first but blasters tend to drain batteries pretty fast and these essentially last for years. https://www.amazon.com/BONAI-10000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Universal/dp/B07BP34CF9/
As for battery Trays
a good solution is to get the Rival Battery Pack and not even bother with Trays.
(chances are, the previous owner did this as well, hence why the trays were gone)
​
Not only do you save on D-cells in the long run, but the Pack actually increases performance.
This but green: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Entertainment-Distribution-Unisex-adult-Imperial-Standard/dp/B01BQ9SAT6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=nerf+star+wars&qid=1605902958&sprefix=nerf+star&sr=8-5 think it was a Toys R Us exclusive though, definitely on other starwars blasters though.
I would receive not going for injection moulded there is a lot more to consider like mold flow and temperatures and unless you have a really good software like inventor you'd have to pay someone else to tweak the design. Not to mention starting a run of injection moulded parts is really expensive and I don't think it would actually be cheaper than say out of darts hopper for the market. Instead why not make the other changes you want and then print it in transparent plastic I personally like this brand because they have different colours of transparent pla but this is just the standard clear. https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00MB3CV6K/
These are great, relatively cheap, red dots for nerf applications that have picatinny rails which NP does...
https://www.amazon.com/Pinty-Reflex-Holographic-Different-Reticles/dp/B01EWAAWGU?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Tenergy makes a fantastic 20A 2000MAH 9.6v NiMH pack. Much safer than Lipo, and I've tested it in the Khaos with excellent results. I will be selling these in the near future (non-affiliate link below on amazon- I make nothing from this):
You want one rated at least 16a. There are cheap ones that work okay on amazon, but ideally you would get the 21a omron switch from the obligatory switch list
Uxcell AC 250V 16 Amp SPDT Long Hinge Roller Lever Momentary Micro Switch (10 Piece), Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0JMSZC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_JUBtybCXYWQJH
These are the ones mentioned, added for completeness lol