What are /r/modular's favorite Products & Services?

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Two years ago I purchased the TipTop Audio power supply and a pair or eurorack rails, the rest I built myself. 

(1) MIDI 2 CV - Arduino UNO based Polyphonic Step Sequencer (3) AS3340 based VCO (1) Buffered Mixer (1) MS20 Filter (1) Utility x2 Gain Attenuator, Attenuverter, Offset (1) AD/AR Envelope Generator (2) LM13700 based Dual VCA

Layouts were designed in EasyEDA and all PCBs were ordered through JLCPCB. Panels are just PCBs with black solder mask. Much more affordable than alum panels!

I made more mistakes than I can count but learned a lot along the way. Is it weird that I enjoy designing/ building these modules more than I do playing them?

More photos from over the past few years

Nice review. I myself use a Plaid flat brush with taklon bristles. I find these to be sturdier than the makeup brushes and really help get the dust off. The bristles are still nice and smooth. Other paint brushes tend to be rough and I feel like I'm using sand paper to remove the copious amount of dust my system tends to collect. At $5 a pair I think its a good compromise vs the Sonia Kashuk collection. I must admit, that the resealable tube is a feature I wish the Plaid brush came with.

It fits, you just need to slightly bend the black box thing on the back down and towards the PCB as far as it will go.

Also, another tip when modules are too deep is to get M3 or M2.5 standoffs, usually 15-20mm tall is enough. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5TJXY1/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Better solution would be:

Plum Audio DSO150 kit

~£15

JYETech DSO-SHELL DSO150 self assemble oscillator

~£23

Additional components from Mouser: £23

Total just over £60 + time for assembly.

Buffered for pitch, passive for everything else.

However, for video synthesis, passive only. This is because most buffered mults use narrow bandwidth ICs instead of wide bandwidth video-rate op amps. In this case most buffered mults designed for audio will smear the high frequency content. There are buffered mults specifically for video synthesis and of course those are designed to work correctly.

Nice write-up!

I've heard the LxD sounds different to the Optomix, so it's less of a pure upgrade. Maybe someone on here has used both?

Buffered mults make a difference for pitch CVs - a passive mult won't track the pitch exactly.

Passive splitting (unbuffered multiple, stackcable, mono splitter, ninja star are all equivalent) will result in some minor voltage drop for every split. This is usually only an issue if you need precise voltage like for v/oct, but occasionally if you split enough times it will drop enough to make your envelopes be low enough to notice or your triggers to be low enough not to trigger.

Buffered multiples solve this by buffering the signal through an op-amp so each output stays the same voltage no matter how many are connected.

I'm definitely new at this film editing. I pretty much got into it to record my bedroom jams and I'm very much still learning.

I use [Davinci Resolve](https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/] and while I still don't know what the hell I'm doing with it, it works well and seems like just stitching clips together (what I use it for) barely scratches the surface of what it can do. It's a free program, but the way I understand it, if you want to do more complicated stuff with it, you have to buy the various plugins.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ24gKHHH1Y this and basically all mylarmelodies videos are a very worthy watch. enjoy! I absolutely love my marbles module.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GG8CNVQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here were some ribbon cables I purchased, these work fine for eurorack modules. I got the 10 to 16 Pins | 15 cm - 6" part.

One solution I've been using with great success for the last couple months and I don't see mentioned often is using something like this USB-C to DC adapter that uses Power Delivery to give up to 20v of power, I use it with a laptop charger and a usb-c power bank without any issue .Im running an almost full 126hp 6U case for hours on my zendure x6 ( 20.000 mAh )

​

EDIT: Make sure your power supply modules takes 20v ( some are max 15v ) AND check the polarity, those are center positive. In my case I use them with a modulaire maritime cargo power supply.

not sure if it is exactly the same but this is the one i have that is very close to the one in the video https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OOYECC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CWhcGbERWJG98?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. I already owned it before it got my case but it turned out to be a perfect fit, and ergonomically very pleasant to use.

I used to sit mine (7U x 104hp) on an acoustic guitar stand, which worked relatively well and they tend to be fairly reasonably priced. They also tend to be padded fairly well in all the right places to prevent scratches etc.

(Something like this, just chose one at random off of Amazon. It'd be worth checking measurements though to make sure the depth of your system fits in the stand. Or even better, try it out at your local guitar store.)

The only downside was that when I was patching/unpatching something in the top-left / top-right of my system it wasn't as stable as I would've liked. But it wasn't too bad. For the price, I feel like it's worth a try!

I've been using this to write the Brain Surgery sysex files to Mutant Brain https://www.amazon.com/iConnectivity-mio-1-out-MIDI-Interface/dp/B00CO5IRSG it's only $40 and gets the job done.

You really need some sort of solution to allow you to use Brain Surgery. One of the things that makes Mutant Brain so great is its ability to be customized.

I also had a Midi Solutions quadra merge laying around and using these together makes for quick editing since you can leave Digitakt and the Mio hooked up at the same time and not have to unplug and swap cables a couple times to test out your config.

I'm warming up to kale -- try some baked kale chips with seasoning sometime https://www.amazon.com/Rhythm-Superfoods-Organic-Chips-Zesty/dp/B00ZLUMAI4/

Looks great! If you grab some 3m strips, you can attach those wires + power cable to the bottom of the table. link on Amazon, these work really well

I'm surprised cases don't have 4hp slots on the back and sides for power modules and breakouts. I designed and 3d printed my own case so I could put my 4ms row power and Disting Midi breakout on the back.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/expandable-eurorack-case-blocks

Had I known about the Xoxo 2hp Midixo I would have definitely gone for that. I'd say that's your best option.

It is used in creative coding to simulate the movement of birds:

https://processing.org/examples/flocking.html

Now imagine those little birds being audio grains, and the field itself being an X/Y pad of L/R volume panning. Then imagine exerting force of the birds- having them prefer certain directions. Or spawning/killing birds at a specific rate. All CV controlled.

No problem! Sometimes I find myself using just the microbrute with my e340 and Synthrotek dirt just for harmony and flavour (respectively), like in this: https://clyp.it/w2yl1lrn It's a fairly powerful synth as it is, but of course add a modular to it and it becomes a beast.

There is a vst version of it you can checkout first maybe

https://www.tracktion.com/products/waverazor

There is a trial on this page

I have a shapeshifter from intellijel digital is pretty awesome

A cloudflare fronting proxy should say that the IP range is owned by cloudflare.. Also, 66.33.192.0/19 isn't in this list: https://www.cloudflare.com/ips/. If you look at the dreamhost.com web pages you see that they don't have a proxy service themselves either so using dh as a proxy means that you probably would have to set up the proxying yourself and that doesnt make sense since there are services better suited for that.

Buffered copies the value more exactly, unbuffered starts to sag slightly for each time it is split. Besides pitch it doesn't usually matter too much. Your lfos will start being slightly more attenuated or if you split a trigger more than like five times it can sometimes droop low enough that it won't be recognized.

I use something like this cable organizer for my patch cables. I throw that in my backpack which has everything else I need. Power bricks, power strip, midi cable, xlr cables, etc....basically everything I need to power up and connect to someones mixer. I have two Intellijel 7u perfomance cases so no real way of putting stuff inside the case, also, its too much stuff to even attempt that.

I think you would need a pretty big case to carry everything and I'd rather have a slim case and a backpack than a bigger case.

This is the one I’m using, also for midi devices:

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/adaptador-lectores-Thunderbolt-compatible-Chromebooks/dp/B07Q8TRVTN

You may want to try as alternative to see reliability.

To add to the list....Here's what I recommend for beginners...

AI Synthesis is top on this list. Excellent documentation, how to video, and great support.

Trogotronic is usually recommended for power but I also like their VCA. The nice thing about trogotronic for power is you can start with the basic 3u kit for $98 and when you are ready to expand its just another $28 for a board.

Befaco is another great option. They have a lot of modules and great instructions as well.

Last but not least is Music Thing Modular.

Those companies all have one thing I really appreciate - Detailed build instructions. As a beginner one thing that frustrated me was some companies expected you to understand how to read schematics and provided very little support. Also, dont skimp out on the equipment you will need to solder. A cheap soldering iron will frustrate you and make you think you dont know how to solder. I finally ended up with a Hakko soldering iron. Take care of the ips and it will last you a long time.

I bought ones that look just like this from Microcenter. The light and little monocle piece are especially useful for looking at resistor codes.

Just a cheap-ish laptop stand! Has nice foam on it so the Octatrack doesn't get scratched, and plenty of space to run cables around/under/through.

Also great choice in combo. Between those to and modular, you've got options forever. I sometimes will just perform with the RYTM + OT, where all samples on the OT are sourced from modular.

the s.b.g works great! worth noting that you need 2 for stereo in/ out.

I use these adapters for 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch and visa versa: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6CQYUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_XT3DXABX6TBGWBJ9XBPW

Yep, basically the same one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F01DRW6/ref=dp_iou_view_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I've got a few of them and while I've never actually put a laptop on one, they're great for synths.

I’m a hoarder of springs and have two of these filled up and tied into my intellijel springray

Five Input Source Tabletop Control Switch Box Internal Pc Board Design Metal Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056DQT1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_FrhTFbK06F7G4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

or on amazon https://www.amazon.com/BARSKA-AF12654-Safe-External-Battery/dp/B06XSW6NLZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541800301&sr=8-1&keywords=Safe+External+Battery+Pack

Based on what you actually have I'd only get modulation/ routing options from now on..

Buffered multiples in order to split signals, a lpg for making percussive bleeps, a maths or maybe stages for additional modulation options/envelopes/lfos. You also need some attenuverters/offsets and vcas in there too.

So I'd start with a buffered multiple, a vnicursal vca or another dense vca module, some kind of function generator (maths/rampage/quadrax/stages) and maybe atn8 from antumbra for additional attenuators/attenuverters and offsets.

Clock dividers/multipliers and signal multiples (buffered, or passive which is perfectly fine for gates) are what you're looking for. Stuff like Pam's New Workout, Tempi, Rotating Clock Divider, Shuffling Clock Multiplier, Intellijel Buffered Mult, IME Miggs, etc.

If you just want to duplicate a gate or clock signal from the controllers you already have, you could use a stackcable or octogon-connector-thingy too. Cheap and easy.

You also have Kinks; you can use its logic section to clone a gate, or derive patterns from two gate signals.

StarTech.com 1m USB 2.0 A to Right Angle B Cable Cord - 1 m USB Printer Cable - Right Angle USB B Cable - 1x USB A (M), 1x USB B (M) (USBAB1MR), Black, 3 ft / 1m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FP32HI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qEqlFbME7Y2Q6

Not that I know of, you could build it with a bit of soldering though. You need a 5V buck converter that can step down voltage from the 12V rail to 5V and wire the 5V to the 12V with the converter inbetween. It should then be able to draw the power of the 12V rail too. You can buy the converter at amazon for example. If somebody has more knowledge about electronics please correct me if this is not correct! Definitely get a 2nd opinion.

Batteries

I had a Bose portable speaker (you can see it in the video), but it was too quiet to draw a crowd. It was mainly meant to help the cameras sync to each others... Also first time, I did it, so did not want to draw too much attention at this location, so I can record this video...

I wonder if something like this would make it comfortable to use them stacked while in bed. I have no issue with a single 7u 104hp on map with a small pillow under it to angle it a bit.

If I were trying to go that route I would definitely reverse engineer an arc lighter. Less fire potential and energy consumption. https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Windproof-Flameless-Indicator-Cigarette/dp/B07L61G21Q

Outstanding. I'd like to try some of those Erica Synths and Barton modules myself. I'm connecting to the iPad with a little Moukey mixer and a used Steinberg UR242.

WTT:

G-Storm Electro Infusor-X (8 channel stereo mixer or sequential switch)

Zlob SVF

Zlob MinEQ

Befaco EvenVCO

NE Clep Diaz (Black)

Takaab Buffered Mult

Mics, outboard gear, pedals, test equipment

as well as either my Cosmotronic Delta-V

OR

Erica Synths Pico VC EG

NLC Valmorification

WTTF: Befaco (STMix, O/A, A*B+C primarily, but also interested in the Burst, Kickall, and most others), Blue Lantern (would love one of the filters with a big knob). Open to other offers though provided it has a black panel (or an aftermarket option for one)

It aint pretty, but you can mod one of these to support 9u x 104 hp pretty easy. I drilled some holes for cable racks and replaced the stopped with ugly elbow peices. I use headphones tho so as not to annoy my partner. It occupies the space where my guitars once did 😭

https://www.amazon.com/Stand-Up-Desk-Store-Adjustable/dp/B07L37QPDX

Get one of the cheap chinese kits. Amazon link but they’re available elsewhere too

I see, thanks! I've been able to find cables like this, but they are always marketed as stereo to mono. Does it go both ways? can I go from dual mono to stereo using this cable?

https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout-AM-601C/dp/B0759YG8KP

The cheap but kind of complicated DIY setup I like is using a pair of Meanwell RS-35-12's wired together in a bipolar configuration.

AI Synthesis makes bus boards with a 5v regulator so you don't need a separate +5v source, and alternatively Michigan Synth Works also makes a +5v device that just plugs into a free power socket.

https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-RS-35-12-Supply-Single/dp/B00DEDASUC

I've also used the RT65b and RT125b. I don't really like those because the -12v supply is really weak, some versions have minimum load requirements that require huge power resistors for load just to run stable, and the +/-12v outputs aren't adjustable and tend to deviate quite a bit from 12 volts. The dual RS-35-12 setup doesn't have any of those problems. It's probably overpowered for the setup you're designing, but that's okay. You could use RS-25-12s instead. (They're currently cheaper on amazon, but that isn't always the case.)

Downsides of this setup are that it requires a lot of manual wiring, and you have to deal with AC power and all the associated safety risks.

Here's a pretty decent mixer option if you don't want to use up space or spend much money, and just want something with a volume knob per input: https://www.amazon.com/Moukey-Low-Noise-Sub-Mixing-Microphones-Mixer-MAMX1/dp/B08BBXK8CY/

Thanks. Any chance you could measure the thickness of that crossbar when you have a minute?

I'm hoping this height adjustable keyboard tray will clear it:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09M2NVTPF/

Another solution for risers https://www.amazon.com/HELIFOUNER-Pieces-Female-Standoff-Assortment/dp/B08HN5PJS5/ref=asc_df_B08HN5PJS5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=482864500043&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3434034535644747207&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqm...

Buffered mults for any kind of audio splitting to multiple fx instead of chaining them. I’ve got the Helium by Winterbloom in my case which has leds to see what your voltage is doing, 3x 1->3 buff mults and a 3->1 unity mixer in 4hp.

Not really a dedicated utility, but I have a lot of fun w stereo imaging with the polarity(?) switches on my Quantus Ampla vca to change the cv response from amplifying to attenuating the incoming signal. I like to put a sub osc through one amplified and a square through another attenuated, that way as the env for the sub decays out the upper octave fades in like a harmonic or feedback.

Also Maths.

Can’t believe I had to scroll to the bottom comment to find the advice OP was actually seeking but here we are. Totally agree with adding rampage (or maths is always a good choice) and a filter. As for the mult it’s not entirely necessary but they’re very handy and cheap. An even cheaper alternative would be to get a few of those those stackable cables. Buffered would probably not be necessary for a case this small

I got this Digital 2 channel Oscilloscope https://www.amazon.com/dp/B098LBV339

And I tried connecting the output of an oscillator 3.5mm tip to the tip of a probe and I see the waveform but it jumps all over the screen.

I tried messing with some settings and glancing at the manual but I’m pretty new to electronics and don’t really know how to use it.

What setting should I be looking for? I found if I press run stop it freezes the screen. Maybe this will work. Seems like it needs a sync signal or something.

Thanks for advice.

How about the mic from your link coupled with this

https://www.amazon.de/Adapter-3-5mm-Stecker-stereo-Kupplung-Schwarz/dp/B000L12YSE/ref=asc_df_B000L12YSE/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=546595364132&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3692216934557513024&hvpone=&hvptwo=&...

Noise engineering Loquelic Iteritas (Black) $300

ADDAC 604 Dual mono filter/stereo filter- $160

Soma LYRA FX $215

Doepfer A-130-2 dual vca $70

Antumbra DVCA (4hp Dual VCA Veils clone, black) $75

2HP Buffered mult $70

I’m interested in trading for:

Modules:

Joranalogue Morph 4

Imitor Versio, or any versio modules. (Black)

Clep Diaz (Silver) UO_C (White/silver preferred)

Make Noise Mysteron

Pedals: Strymon El Capistan Shallow Water

As others have mentioned, velcro ties or cable clips can be helpful to organize your cables and keep them out of the way of the knobs you need access to. My personal preference for this is Nite Ize gear ties.

Strategic use of layout and longer cables can be very helpful. For example, I have a module I use a lot that I route all around my system. I have it in the corner of my rack and use long cables that I wrap around the outside of my case where I maneuver them to the desired module from the top/bottom/side without passing over top of things I want to touch. The cable ties help keep things in a good position.

You need to experiment with your layout to see what works best, and the "ideal" layout may change over time. Modules that are connected most often should maybe be relatively close to each other without any important hands-on module in between. I recommend getting knurlies or other thumb screws to make it easier to move modules around.

I also got a small supplemental 4ms Pod case where I put my "control center" like a joystick module, and keep that off to the side with cables out of the way, and then use that to control a fully patched system.

Cheaper than buying them? no chance a good plug will cost you as much as a few cables.

I always buy those, never had any problems.

Hi! Prices are listed above. I can do venmo goods and services or local meet ups in Chicago! Shipping is usps for $15. All modules come with original boxes, ribbons and packing.

WTS:

Noise engineering Loquelic Iteritas black panel $310

ADDAC 604 Dual mono filter/stereo filter- $170

Soma LYRA FX $215

Doepfer A-130-2 dual vca $70

2HP Buffered mult Black $65

WTTF:

Joranalogue Morph 4

Instruo Lubadh

Instruo Lion

Instruo Vinca

Noise engineering Clep Diaz (silver panel)

UO_C (White panel)

Modular Express Buffered Mult has done me fantastic for no frills, steady/no-dip CV. Fully normalled so can be 1x12, 2x6, 4x3, etc. $80. Works a treat.

I have a 2hp Passive Mult, a Mosaic 1U Buffered Mult and a 6 point passive. I usually use the Mosaic and will probably go for another one when the time comes to buy another one since they are so reasonably priced. T

For sale: Local pickup in LA only.

Joranalogue Filter 8 - $250

Intellijel Noise Tools 1U - $80 Intellijel Quadratt 1U (x2) - $65 each Intellijel Dual VCA 1U (x2) - $80 each Intellijel Buffered Mult 1U - $30 Intellijel Passive Mult 1U - $20

Qu-Bit Chance - $220 Rossum Control Forge - $400

Addac Manual Gates - $80 Addac Manual Latches - $90 Addac Floor Control - $70 Addac VC Transitions - $120

Intellijel Metropolis - $375

I try and strike a balance between a logical signal flow order (e.g. oscaillators left of filters), and what seems to make sense ergonomically. If I went purely by signal flow, my Erica Black Sequencer would be towards the left, but then the 16 knobs would by right under a mess of cables,so it makes sense for it to be far right.

Similarly, I try and organise vertically based on where the knobs and sockets are. I have a MI Rings and a Plaits clones which have the sockets at the bottom and knobs at the top, so I put them above other modules so I can get to the knobs easier without cables in the way. Finally there's cable length. I have a Tesseract 8x8 Buffered Matrix which potentially needs to be able to connect anything, so it's right in the centre of the system.

It's not a perfect layout, and I'm not completely consistent with it, but that's some of my thinking.

TRS stands for Tip, Ring, Sleeve. Meaning the cable carries two separate signals on the tip and the sleeve, with the ring being a plastic spacer to separate both signals.

The eurorack A-100 standard uses mono jacks, with no tip, ring or sleeve. Meaning the cable carries a single signal available throughout the entire length of the jack.

All standard eurorack mults are mono and will not work with TRS inputs, but you can use an external stereo splitter/mult to make copies of a TRS signal.

I use this. Better to grab the dust rather than push it around where it can resettle or go into cracks. A vacuum also works well.

When I built my case, I bought this cheap PSU from Amazon UK, along with their bus-board. I don't see the bus board on Amazon now, but you could probably order from their website.

Oh wow, that sounds great! I'm gonna check out the artists and events on there. I couldn't see information about the shop on the website you linked?

I would definitely make the trip though!

Also, feel free to join us for an initial meet if central London isn't too much of a journey - doodle poll for the date/time here.

https://doodle.com/meeting/participate/id/b48V5Vgb

I've set up a doodle poll to find a time for an initial meet somewhere tbc in Central if you're still interested!
https://doodle.com/meeting/participate/id/b48V5Vgb

I think you're right for a proper event, but I've set up a doodle poll to find a time for an initial meet for a chat somewhere tbc in Central if you're still interested!
https://doodle.com/meeting/participate/id/b48V5Vgb

Great that there is interest - I tried to set up a group chat so we could actually organise an initial meet up [I think pa_px is right about an eventbrite for a proper event, but not for an initial meet for a chat]. I am new to reddit so don't know why it won't let me do it.

So instead, I've set up a doodle poll - https://doodle.com/meeting/participate/id/b48V5Vgb for an initial meeting somewhere tbc in central

If you fill it out, it'll tell me which time most people can do and we'll go with that!

Hope this works as a method!

James.

This is the plastic case I used, you can fit 74HP 6U in there. you'll have to modify the hinges to allow their removal but its pretty easy. I'm evaluating this case (ordered in bulk already modified) as the base of my official cases. I'm powering this one with an internal battery and a power supply prototype that takes care of charging, balancing and protection of the battery.

No clue how long it'll work, but I saw the post a couple days ago on the Ryobi battery pack and thought that was pretty wicked. There's a cooling fan that's awful in the unit I picked up, I replaced it with a noctua 40mm 12v fan I had on hand and it's near silent now.

I think I'm pulling roughly 45watts based on a kill-a-watt testing the rack before. I'll update with run times if anyone is curious and once I have them :)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DK8Z7DH + https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-Premium-40x20mm/dp/B072JK9GX6

Yes, you can. Here's an example of using your phone's audio output to generate an LFO: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sinistersystems.synth

It's called microbrute, but this should work for every 0-5 V input out there.

If it's in small enough skiffs, perhaps you could store them in a dehumidifying camera dry cabinet like this. If that's hard to get, the lo-fi solution for keeping camera equipment in humid climates would also work, ie a large airtight plastic box (like tupperware) into which you put your modular skiff when not in use along with silica gel and anti-fungal packets. Failing that, perhaps there are local solutions for storing valuable items. For example, here in Japan, a paulownia (kiri) wood box with a tight lid is used for storing valuable items. it's very resistant to humidity and insects.

Mudder Portable USB Flexible Stick Dimmable Touch Switch LED White Light Lamp for Laptop Computer PC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIQUJQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AB9BV8KQ9SMW28KXGZET?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I’m using a couple gooseneck led lights from Amazon; they work pretty well but can be a little wobbly sometimes due to their overall length. As for the signal booster, it’s a Doepfer A-183-4 Quad Level Shifter, so I can get those 10v gates that the Pulsar likes!

Mudder Portable USB Flexible Stick Dimmable Touch Switch LED White Light Lamp for Laptop Computer PC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MIQUJQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AB9BV8KQ9SMW28KXGZET?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

WTT/S:

Intellijel 7U 104hp performance case (silver) $650

Blood Cells Audio DOMIXX $180

Intellijel uMidi 1U $200

Mosaic 1U Buffered Mult $20

Pico mScale $60

Malekko Mix4 $80

Meris Mercury7 $250

WTTF: Blackhole Cases 6U 60hp in Blue, MI Ears, Mannequins W/, Bitbox Micro or MKII (black preferred), MI Plaits (no clones) and if you have a TX-6 or OP-1 Field i got more euro/pedal stuff i’d offer!

Hello I would like to recommend
Mysteries at Treasure River by Nipuna D. Ranasinghe
New book release - Amazon Kindle Free Promotion

If I don't find an articulated arm that can take the weight, I'll probably go this route.

It's gonna be clamped on a motorized standing desk, so there's the added benefit of having the cables at the right height either standing or sitting. Wall mount is not really an option for me.

I had this issue going from Pam's to Intellijel Buffered Mult to Math's trig input. Solved by using a passive mult instead. Here is a thread on this issue. Good luck!

I was looking for a cable holding solution for my NiftyKEYZ, and discovered that my existing cable holder aligns near perfectly!
The part is a Penn-Elcom R1315 which is listed here-
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9VFWF4/
You’ll need two M4 screws of about 14mm or so length, I grabbed these as they were cheap and available quickly-
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5VDFY1/
You’ll need a metric hex wrench to remove the existing screws (and tighten those if you go with them). I didn’t have the right size, but found that a T15 torx bit worked instead.

This crimp tool is <$20 on Amazon and does the job just fine. Grab that and a roll of cable and you've got unlimited custom length/multi-connector cables forever.

Here’s a listing i found with a quick search that has a basic amp and cheap guitar for under $200 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KJKY6VH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9TVHS8202P8Z2Y8BSE4C?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I was searching for knurlies on amazon and these came up. Similar to the alan key machine screws in the picture but knurled on the sides. Its all I ‘m using from here on out.

M3 x 6mm Alloy Steel Hex Bolt Socket Head Cap Screws Black 100 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W8YSCIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MWWR5KYEX4XQPT5HWYAV?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Another approach is getting a powerbank with Usb C Power Delivery ( PD ) and one of these cheap usb c pd to dc charger ... I can get several hours off my Zendure X1 powering my completely full 116hp 6U case ( around 1750mA)

Look up AC power banks. I use something like this to power my rack + a small 4ch mixer + 2 monitors for just over an hour - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0713XJBG2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_77AY5GJTVKZDG9Q4WNBP

All of the downsides I can think of are a bit of a stretch to worry about:

• You always have to plug the input signal into a specific jack, instead of using any one.
• You can use a cable splitter instead of a passive mult module at all, or install your passive mult in an unpowered case of only passive modules.

Even more theoretical-not-practical:

• Buffered mults will have a tiny bit more delay, but probably completely unnoticeable unless you're using your modular as an electronics lab.
• They could introduce distortion. Practically, the buffered mult is likely to be the “cleanest” module in your system unless they really cheaped out on the op amps.

Multing is fine. Most stereo mixing modules actually do it for you through normalisation. There'll be a slight voltage drop from using a passive mult, but that'll more than likely not be perceptible.

Buffered mults are generally only necessary for pitch CV.

Buffered mults add a powered buffer which should maintain signal strength - they are particularly useful for pitch - there might be a slight droop but not necessarily as much as with passive mults

They can also be useful when connecting the outputs of some modules that are expecting a buffered input - for example my make noise maths doesn’t like some other modules I have and stops working unless there’s a buffer in between

For modulation cv, audio and triggers/ gates passive mults are fine - if you are patching live during a performance however it’s possible that you might ‘short to ground’ momentarily and add extra triggers as a result, which can introduce unwanted drum hits for example, although I’ve rarely noticed this in practice in 6 years or so, & for modulation and audio it’s never been a problem

The stackcables you are referring to are not serge/buchla banana cables ( they have a different connector) although they are based on them… they are effectively passive mults and can be used in the same way - don’t stack them past 1 into another - chain them

Buffered multiples have an active component (i.e. they need power) that makes sure that the voltage will be the same at each output. This is mainly important for 1v/o, as the voltage drops only a tiny bit on normal mults in most cases, so for most applications you would not notice a difference.

Yes, stackable cables are basically the same as passive mults (the banana part is just the connector and more coincidental - it just so happens that stackable cables are more common with banana connectors, as these are often used in lab equipment.

You can’t use banana plugs with eurorack, as they need fitting jacks to be used. However, some manufacturers make cables with 3.5mm audio jacks that can be stacked similarly to banana cables. Those you can use just like multiples. Similarly to multiples, you generally shouldn’t use them to mix signals, i.e. only connect one output to multiple inputs, not multiple outputs to one input. But even that generally shouldn’t damage anything unless you’re using modules from the early days of eurorack (some of which weren’t protected against this kind of thing).

These are actually some pretty tasteful picks on modules. Lots of modulation, only a couple of sound sources.

Might wanna think about a different sequencer, like NerdSeq. That thing is a monster and would easily replace the quantizers and matrix sequencer for the space. It's also in stock now, and that isn't very common. I do like how you have both a CV and trigger sequencer. Steppy will serve you well with all of those triggerable modules.

Buffered multiples are important to use when you want to share pitch CVs between multiple modules. May be a good idea to have one, but it's not too hard to work around not having one.

You better hop on blades while it's in stock! That thing is new, fashionable, shiny, and made in small batches.

I believe these should be it, the bolts they use with those brackets are M6-1.0 bolts

Odinest M6 X 10mm T Nut 4 Prong Tee Blind Nuts Threaded Insert Clean Threads No Rust Carbon Steel Zinc Plated for Wood Rock Climbing Wall Holds Plywood Furniture Particle Board CNC Router 40 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08419TT2D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QGG1TPB9NYWSPP9E41NN

This is the exact one that I'm using:

Magnetic Helping Hands Third Arm Soldering Work Station | EXtra Large & Heavy Duty Base Plate | 5 Flexible Arms with Precision 360 Degree Alligator Clip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086PJ29PF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_NGS13QHYTTK9S6B10XRK?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Three equal size boxes, hinge on top, then attach gas springs (https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Support-Cabinet-Supports-Telescopic/dp/B092VMN716) to the sides near bottom to angle the unit. You might have to do some testing/research to size the spring correctly to get nice operation.

You’re probably not getting the -12 below -12 in your Meanwell supply, because most likely it’s using a linear regulator like a 7912. I know for fact the RT65B uses one because I had one fail (the one in my test rack) with my -12 going to -14.6 or so. If you get the +12 boosted, I suggest you go with a switching regulator instead of a simple linear regulator. You’ll have a lot less heat to get rid of.

According to your Modular Grid layout, your +12 operating current is nearly 4 Amps; you’re going to need more ampacity in your supply than that. Figure the startup surge is going to be 200% for about 100 ms and design around that. The cheap Meanwell supplies actually don’t handle power-on surge current well, and you’re over 70% of the continuous rating. So, honestly, you’re throwing money at a problem you’re not likely to solve with that supply.

You don’t have to spend a fortune to update your supply. I have several of the Alitove 60-Watt supplies and they’ve done well for me, with filtered bus boards. I’m still using one for my new rack for the -12, and a Meanwell single-output 100-Watt for my +12. The only issue I have is that the -12 comes up 3/4 second later than the +12, so I need to add a delay relay.

I've had this idea of taking a hard cover guitar case and converting it to a modular synth case. When you open it up its just full of modules. Not a rectangular case though, something like this and have modules going up along the neck...maybe 1u modules.

Furman. I have a rack mount for my gear but they have these standard strip ones for $30.

I have stmix mixers at end of line on my rack, and absolutely no space for a dedicated output module. I can only turn knobs on mixer from 0 to 25% before i start clipping. I want to be able to use the mixers in full range for performance reasons.

If I had 2 more HP i could use an attenuator, but what if instead my final l/r outputs just went into something like this? they're small and discreet and on these ones there's no danger of a knob accidentally getting turned and blowing up a PA or something. I take it these cables are just a passive atten? Will there be any loss of sound quality or anything?

For my own use, I use aluminum blanks, then print with a color laser on Avery 5526 labels. They look really decent and have a nice surface finish, and are also easier to cut out for the pot and jacks holes than a paper label (but warning, use a very sharp knife or they could tear). The advantage is that you can use any color your printer will lay down, and they don’t bleed or smudge like paper labels can.

I just ordered some aluminum panels from JLCPCB and am hoping they look decent. The downside is they are monochrome and limited colors, but hey, $2 each for a 10 HP panel, that’s almost the cost of the aluminum.

Open to trades (see bottom of post) but mostly looking for cash. Discount given on multiple modules. Hit me up to discuss shipping. Prefer to ship CONUS!

• ALM Squid Salmple (comes w/ box) - $420

• ALM Mum M8 - $200

Intellijel Planar V1 (includes extra faceplate) - $250

Noise Engineering Sinc Iter - $290

Harvestman/IME Hertz Donut MKI - $450

Tip Top Audio QuantiZer (original panel) - $220

Doepfer A-189-1 VC Bit Modifier / Bit Cruncher - $100

Doepfer A-138nV Slim Line Mixer (brand spankin new) - $60

Erica Synths Pico VCF1 Polivoks Filter - $80

Uoki Toki DAP! Dual Atari Punk Console - $130

Grayscale Permutation Random Sequencer 12HP + Variant Expander - $340

Nexus Instruments CV Looper - $280

WMD MSCL (brand new) - $240

Shakmat Modular Bishop's Miscellany CV Recorder (DIY, both firmwares) - $200

Intellijel 1U Stereo Mixer + XY Tile - $80

Pulp Logic 1U tile bundle (2x Buffered Multiples, Att-Offset) - $70

Yamaha TG33 (comes w voice card) - $600

Mackie MS1202 mixer (the "one")- $150

8x Monoprice 6' XLR to 1/4 TRS cables - $60

2x Firewire 400 cables - $20

Trade Interests: 1010 Music Bitbox Micro, Qu-bit Data Bender, Erica Pico DSP, TINRS Tuesday, Modbap Osiris, Intellijel Quadratt 1U, Patching Panda Ephemere, Doepfer A-135-2, Plancks 2, Blue Lantern Hermippe VCF, ALM Pip Slope MKII, Stochastic Inspiration Generator, Klangbau Koln Twin Peak Filter, Eowave Quadrantid Swarm, Novation Peak, Behringer Deepmind 12D, Elektron Analog Keys, Roland SP-303, Yamaha Reface CP, Moog DFAM

Sure! The USB-lights are really cheap, right from Amazon: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B09MG5Z9FW

I did not use the specific O_c 4 Robots so far, just installed it in the new 1U row. But I used to own other O_Cs and I like them a lot and I don´t this one will be any different. Still take a lot of 1U real estate. O_C can be a lot: Great quantizers, clock dividers, random sources or envelopes. I prefer the Hemisphere firmware. In the bigger cased I used to have two of these, with different firmwares.

I have mine sitting on one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Guitar-Case-17580-014-55/dp/B00IY0BLB0/ref=sr_1_35?crid=P5N3RU80P34U&amp;keywords=collapsible%2Bguitar%2Bstand&amp;qid=1644211897&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sprefix=collapsible%2Bguitar%2Bstand%2Cmi%2C122&amp;sr=...

It gives it a slight angle.

Really digging your case OP, one day I will get my wood shop back online and make something similar for myself (right now wood is to damn expensive, though I have the hardwood, it’s not the lumber for a proper bench) :) Another design to consider for those interested in printing some case space are these: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/expandable-eurorack-case-blocks I have 6U 104 Hp printed so far and really dig the design. My printer is not set up the best so I have some flaws in my prints, but they get the job done :)

You’re probably not going to need a diode check. Can you post a photo of the power supply module so I can help you a little more? There is no “one” power supply design so seeing what you have will help better direct the testing. I used imgbb.com to do that for a different post; doesn’t require a signup or expose any of your personal information.

I use the RT-65B in my test rack, which I built into a PXI tester a friend gave me. But other than that, I wouldn’t use one for more than two rows because they are somewhat anemic; much of the output power is dedicated to +5. People love them because they are cheap and all-in-one.

If Meanwell did the RT-65 as 2.5 Amps each of +/-12 and 1 amp of 5 Volts, they’d be the #1 seller for Eurorack supplies.

For my 3 x 104 HP case I’m using a Meanwell PD-2512 because clearance was an issue. I use a custom module I built that plugs into a bus connector to get +5 because I only need 150 milliAmps or so.

There is risk of doing what I did with the (relatively) high current supplies. If something fails, it will go BOOM. But I live dangerously, and I have a pretty good stack of failed modules to repair.

If I were doing a commissioned build of a big case, I would use multiples of the DIN supplies in the MDR-10 or -20 series with the case broken into zones of 4 x 84 or 104 HP.