What are
/r/rccars'
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/rccars:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/rccars:
Banggood
GearBest
Cults.
Walmart
Autodesk Tinkercad
Trustpilot
Google Photos
Thingiverse
DealExtreme
Hackster
Coda
Alibaba.com
Mashable
APKPure
Aliexpress
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/rccars:
RE-VOLT Classic - 3D Racing
Raloco RC
Reddit: Top Trending Content - News, Memes & GIFs
The most popular reviews in /r/rccars:
2 Pcs 9.6V 700mAh Rechargeable KET-3P Plug Ni-Cd Battery with Charging USB Cable for RC Toy Looks like these might work
Like Robot car Remote Control Boat 9.6 Volt ket3p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08727FT79/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A41CSR4123MTJ5K4ZMHK
A good set of hex wrenches (1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, and 3mm) is a must have, that and a multibin organizer. MIP makes great wrenches albeit a bit expensive, and a storage bin like this makes for a wonderful desk topper, a great place to put any small bits yiu may need.
Links are available in the youtube description, but just in case you came here instead here they are!
Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.HonduneGames.ReCharge
IOS: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/recharge-rc/id1277540909?ls=1&mt=8
If you guys have any feedback or wished feel free to comment here, i will check in frequently!
I own a WL Toys P929. It's a fast little sucker. It's pretty small (a bit smaller than my hand), but I haven't seen the Losi Micro T or Desert Truck in real life so I don't know how it compares. I turn my Amazon shipping boxes into ramps and jump it around in my living room.
The dremel/flathead is a great trick. Should you happen to break the head off, something like this should help.
Good idea but why not just buy a lipo fire bag for 5$ ?
Free US Ship Lipo Battery Fireproof Bag Storage Bag Lipo Battery Guard Safe Bag Fiber Material for Charge & Storage 30x23cm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B5QF9YU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T.xNBbX0ZRBVB
We've recently released a guide on how you can convert an RC car to be drivable over the internet, allowing you to race on unlimited range while viewing the surrounding in HD quality, via webcam / gopro, etc. The software and the surrogate.tv are free to use, and the setup requires no coding.
​
Se the guide here - https://www.hackster.io/surrogatetv/internet-controlled-rc-car-with-hd-video-using-raspberry-pi-4b728c
I’m going to guess you’re talking about the diff cups stripping. It’s not much of an issue if you drive them properly, but is still a weak point. Here’s the upgrade that’ll fix that problem:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085DN5W16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_NDwBVuRV9lHMx
The dremel slot thing works, but I also got these and they worked perfectly for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q60UOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_NSA0D5089AM4D5YKGFZB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've only used em twice so far but they've worked great
Sticky weights around your beadlock rims, you might need a smaller set of foams to to get them to fit, but they really help keep things planted better.
Just like /u/whoknowswho2 said, it's bottom grade. The company is called New Bright and they are basically the cheap, Chinese company that makes tons of these and they are fun, but they have no ability to upgrade. My kids have 2 and they are generally speaking ok toys. The antenna tubes are annoying as I see you also have the antenna missing much like my kids.
If you can get $100 together, get a cheap ECX kit off amazon. This one my buddy has and it is a blast to drive, has 4wd and lots of spare parts. Dont be discouraged by your purchase, have fun, but if you want something to tweak and upgrade, look elsewhere.
Cheap. Effective. 25 tooth. Not exactly race material with stupid low latency or something but strong and reliable.
It's a Ten-Eighty ramp. It was around $40-$50 a long time ago. It's similar to this one (I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post this link.)
25KG Digital Servo Full Metal Gear High Torque Waterproof for 1/8 and 1/10 Scale Crawler,Truck,Buggy,Robots.Extra give 1pc 25T Adjustable Metal Servo Arms,be spared or Replaced(Control Angle 180°) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0882W5P22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DYEWQ5M35EQK407B0BH5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can buy a case full of accessories for cheap off Amazon. Like this
I've had a good experience with my FlySky GT3B so far. They take 8 AA batteries, have a back light and (stock) can have around 10 R/Cs programmed in.
I did break my trigger at one point (likely in transport) and the spring in the wheel broke. That was an easy fix.
It was recommended to me on this sub.
Thanks.
I used these LED tubes. I've bought dozens of them over the last few years. They're the perfect K rating for painting models and they don't draw much juice.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And this... http://www.advantagehobby.com/90528/INTC22778/C22778-Quick-Pit-Hex-Wrench-Set-7/?gclid=CKGZye-o8NECFQaewAod8gcPug Double check this, make sure its got hex ends that fit in the drill. Integy is what I got but its not color coded like this and could be slightly different.
Makes life alot easier. That black and decker spins at a slow speed which is perfect.
Saw the Bruiser on www.rccrawler.com. There's a whole thread on it. No clue there was a Micro! I'm gettin' me one.
Thanks!
Edit:
Here's a link to the 1/36. Comes in a short course version! <3
This isn't exactly "Black Friday" but one hell of a deal. Jet.com is offering $25 off $50 to new customers. I saw this in /r/buildapcsales but thought I would search RC related stuff. They carry some Pro-Line and RPM stuff. I got 2 pairs of Trenchers for the Stampede 4x4 for $33.50 shipped. I'm not affiliated with Jet just got a sweet deal and wanted to pass it on. Cheers people.
setup :
- an old kyosho sandmaster
- a raspberry pi + its camera
- netgear wce3001 wifi <-> ethernet adapter
- a fat ass power brick to give clean power to the rspi and the wifi adapter
- a pollulu maestro to drive the direction servo and the ECS
- raspimjpeg
- a little of js code for the client and the nodejs server
that way I can drive it via wifi from any browser, and it streams the webcam with very little latency ( < 100ms )
Edit : sorry for the typo in the title
I'll post the code by the end of the week on r/raspberry_pi
Hey hey, I'm working on open database of wheels and rims and stuff so people can look for exact measurements that shops aren't posting.
Here's a link if you would like to contribute new tires.
Hey hey, I'm working on open database of wheels and rims and stuff so people can look for exact measurements that shops aren't posting.
Here's a link if you would like to contribute any new tires you buy.
Ezrun max10? Had the same issue, was able to run the wires through the shock tower and just barely reach, but worst case scenario you have to get some wire extensions.
Hobby Park sells 4mm bullet extensions on amazon for like $8
Something like that should do the trick
The battery looks like a very standard 7.2V six cell nickel battery back. Something like this should last twice as long as that one ever did: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0037U35SO
You should be able to find one locally. Any 7.2V or peak-detecting NiMH charger should work with it. Check that your battery dimensions are the same.
One of the retro folks here can probably help you with tires.
I have had a lot of luck with these servos. ZOSKAY 35kg high Torque Coreless Motor servo Metal Gear Digital and Stainless Steel Gear servo arduino servo for Robotic DIY,RC car (Control Angle 270°) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9XZYN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E5D276T6B8739F0JKN6M
INJORA Hard Plastic 12.3 Inch/313mm Wheelbase Cherokee Body Car Shell for 1/10 RC Crawler Axial SCX10 & SCX10 II 90046 90047 TRX4 Kit # 82016-4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GM9854/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NX52ZQNF16TNYQFXC7YQ
The chassis it’s on is a scx 10 II.
You might be aware, but they do make a device specifically for this:
This ☝🏾 1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm
Moores Ideal Products 9502 Metric... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7DK0NY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Moore Ideal Products 9512 Metric Speed Tip Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7DJVEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_675HAQ7CB0ST52VQ1MTJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I will add that for some reason the slipper on my Slash kept loosening every time I'd run it, so ended up needing to put some (removable) threadlocker on it, equivalent to this: https://smile.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/
Just make sure you don't get the permanent stuff.
Not sure why this started being an issue for me; last track day had been a few months before in snow. Got it out and it ran for about 15 seconds before getting too loose to move, and did the same the next two times I tightened it, until I added the threadlocker.
Proline adjustable mounts are needed for the body to fit https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Line-Racing-608700-Extended-Mounts/dp/B0090TOF9Y/ref=asc_df_B0090TOF9Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309830501429&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5907835314753053685&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...
Plus this:
Raidenracing Chassis Dirt Dust Resist Guard Cover for 1/8 Arrma Outcast BLX Monster Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07815G6KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TP1X7D5W9E2GVSXH6JWX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The Peacemaker, which was built around a vehicles called the Ripsaw, and there are RCs of that too. From what I saw they aren't bad. https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Control-Rechargeable-Rotating-Vehicle/dp/B07Z9Y65M1
Yes. You have your charger set to 2S LiPo balance charge, which means it will monitor each cell as it's charging and balance them if they get too far out of balance. It will also stop if one cell isn't charging enough compared to the other. In general, always balance charge unless it's only 1 cell.
You also have it charging at just a little over 1C which is fine. A 1C charge rate means 1amp per 1000mah of capacity.
Also, make sure to put back into a storage voltage when you're done using the battery. Leaving lipos fully charged over night will decrease their capacity significantly.
Lastly you shouldn't leave these unattended while they're charging or discharging.
Sorry is you already know any of this, it's just good that we always make sure new people in the hobby know these safety basics.
Also, this unit makes a great discharger so you can safely put your battery into storage voltage faster:
A lot of chargers don't have a lot of discharge capacity, so that device will let you check voltages, balance cells, or discharge them. I use mine a lot. I just zip tied the little bulbs to a piece of steel pipe strapping that I then screwed to a piece of wood.
LAEGENDARY 1:10 Scale RC Cars Replacement Parts for Legend Truck: Oil-Filled Shock Absorbers - Part Number LG-ZJ03-2 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVTGZ4X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MEREFBZ78K7CX400XQXY?psc=1
These are the shocks I used.
In two months of ownership, I've probably had the body off the truck 40 times for various reasons. Unsurprisingly, removing and fastening 12 screws into weak plastic threads is taking its toll. I watched this video on the 'Tube and decided to try using this thread repair set from Amazon.
I've never used thread inserts before but these couldn't have been easier. In 45 minutes I had done just about all the weak M3 holes on the truck. Now the body screws go in smooth as glass without friction from plastic threads, and torque down confidently - no more mushy continuous rotation once installed!
Amazon - ~$12 for 8 light if you just want the basics. I've used it on several vehicles now(Slash and Stampede) and it's decent enough quality - super bright. I make a pigtail that comes out of the receiver so I don't have to run them all the time and makes the body removable, without having to leave a bunch of slack.
If you decide to do it the DiY method you'll need 5V/5mm leds, resistors for each led, plugs and wiring(potentially the screw in/pop in mounts if you're like me). I found it's cheaper to just buy a prewired kit because you have to buy everything in bulk, which does end up cheaper, if you plain to build 10+ kits.
Sounds to me like you have a bad motor bearing. Either that or you've overheated the motor pretty badly and ruined the magnets. Either way I'd just get a new motor. Those little 380 brushed ones are cheap as dirt.
Pretty easy mod as well, that's a [hobbywing](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8DZDNS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) esc $20 on amazon, any old receiver/transmitter combo, and you're lipo ready!
Im new to rc cars and just got my first car. After my last slam, the rear wheel stopped spinning and I saw that a pin fell out. I'm not very mechanically knowledgable but I believe its the rear drive shaft? Anyways, the diameter and length is about 2x10mm - i found these on Amazon Hobbypark M2x10 mm Steel Hex Wheel Hub Nut Pins RC Car Hardware Replacement 08027 (Pack of 20) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EIDETVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_poIHFbPYH980W would these work?
They're from a company called 2X4 Basics. I bought two of their kits to build this. One was the L-bench, and the other was just a general shelf kit.
L-bench:.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086XL1KJW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Shelves:.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030T1BGA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They went together really, rellly easily. I mean, a bench isn't hard, I've built plenty, but I'll never not use these again. You don't have to waste anytime squaring up anything. I had the guy at Home Depot cut the plywood to the sizes I needed, so all I had to do at home was cut the 2X4s to whatever lengths I wanted/needed and screw them into the jigs/legs. Even with mounting the 8 LED tubes for the lighting, I don't think this took more than 4 hours, and I wasn't exactly rushing.
Made by Haiboxing, the model is the Protector. I found it on Amazon. I had a very limited budget and this seemed to meet my needs. I got way more than expected. Already ordered the brushless motor for it.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Remote-Control-Car-Protector-Rechargeable/dp/B07ZTB6GLJ?ref_=ast_bbp_dp
A buggy loaned me his late last year when we were wrenching on his 1/5. Was so impressed, and my wife heard me talking about it so much, I ended up with one for Christmas.
Huge lifesaver and I use it with all my cars. Batteries are cheap and last a long time (I have 2 I rotate between) and I use it a ton around the house as well where I don't need to bust out the larger drills.
Clutch is reliable and repeatable so no over doing things as well!
This is probably the best you can get for your budget
Coming from a Dumbo RC radio its really great, the quantity of features is a bit confusing, but you get used to it.
There is also a micro receiver which I ordered just a few seconds ago.GT5 micro receiver
At the moment I do have this steering angle
But I will convert to RWD to increase the angle by cutting the front diff housing.
Yes, I have this chassis
I added a different link.
Is it possible to control this gimbal with PWM/PPM/any kind of serial port?
Panning slightly while turning (in the direction of a turn) is a great feature, and some TXes can do this (at least by PWM) by mixing with steering channel. Some Chinese gimbals like this one support that.
No joke, look at some of the WLToys 1/10, 1/12 and 1/18 scale. They're hobby grade, built excellent and many use parts from other vehicles ie: the 10428 can use parts from the Vaterra Twin Hammers. In fact, that is the one that I would look at first.
​
It looks like the original poster abandoned this thread... But wow. These kits are crazy cheap. How good is the plastic in these parts? I am more interested in the front axle and the possibilities to convert that to a pass-through... (https://www.banggood.com/HG-P401P402P601-110-RC-Car-Front-Gear-Box-HG-BX02-p-977820.html?rmmds=buy)
If the plastic is junk I suppose I can always try the metal ones.
I haven't seen RC traxxas prices vary a lot. The probably have a forced minimum price so local stores can compete. I'm not sure on that though.
If you find the vehicle on amazon you can check to see if the price has been lower using camelcamelcamel. Just paste the amazon url in the search bar. For instance, here is the one you posted: http://camelcamelcamel.com/Traxxas-37076-1-Rustler-VXL-Ready-To-Race/product/B00OK3ABMU
If you wanted a special tool, amazon has it
ZeckTeck Metal Shock Absorber Pliers Ball Head Pliers Clip Multi-Function RC Tool for Traxxas HSP Car https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093H6L1GP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BJ6VT99BE2JPJQFHQF6A
It works great
I bought this. It is a GPS speedometer made for bicycles that seems to work pretty well.
Unfortunately you do have to either have it mounted on the exterior or take your body off to be able to read it.
Calling is the way to get the fastest turnaround for service, but you will have to sit on hold for a good while. Email tend to take them a while To get back to you.
Since you were asking about servos, I’ve been running a 20kg DS servo (off Amazon) in my 3s Arrma for over a year of hard bashing without an issue. I typically but them in pairs so I have extras for myself or friends, and they cost about $15/each.
Some generic Amazon lights. They're cheap and they work which are the two things I wanted lol.
So now you should source a replacement servo. If its a 3 wire servo, I like the 20kg specials that Amazon/eBay seem to sell,for 20ish dollars. Metal geared and waterproof.. That will help this issue from surfacing again
Yes. You will want these guys. I'm going to once these wear down. they look bad-ass, and tons of people rave about them.
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-line-Racing-Badlands-Black-PRO1012510/dp/B07N8M8Z81
and you'll need these too:
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-line-Racing-6x30-17mm-Adapters/dp/B07MXRXQ79/
Just get this guy. It’s great and it’s cheap- a lot of people use them.
ANNIMOS 25kg RC Digital Servo Large Torque High Speed Full Metal Gear Waterproof 180 Degree Control Angle Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJ6ZCVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_562TYD4EBEQS99SZB24M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But to answer your main question. Yes. a heat sink and fan would be good for your motor/esc. If you’re afraid about getting grass in there and blocking it you can always get a mesh cover to put over the chassis to block out grass, dirt, rocks etc. Those rocks eat up the drive train and fans if you’re not careful.
Do you have a volt checker like this? It cycles through all of the cells in the battery 1-8S and displays the volts on the screen for example 3.85, 3.85, 3.85. The last one can vary sometimes between 3.85-3.90 but you want to make sure all cells are basically the same.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NTH5GWV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_WTK5N24HCNZHG7TJ0SB8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 This should fit. I believe the stock motors are 550 right? This will work good if so.
If you start to get more into the hobby I'd recommend buying a brushless motor and ESC to go with it. Those brushed motors don't last very long. You can find a cheap brushless motor and ESC combo for $50 on eBay usually.
Buy a cheap motor fan / heat sink combo off Amazon. It should solve your problem. For example:
Aluminum Heat Sink w/Cooling Fan Fits Motor 540 550 3650 (Purple, Set of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TXFQR8X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ENS23Y31KBPC1Q859TQZ
Shock oil isn't very expensive. I got a team losi racing set of 6 different thicknesses for like $20. I haven't used it in my Slash, so I can't recommend a thickness but you can just experiment and see what works for you.
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Losi-Shock-Oil-202530354045/dp/B00B9E9BU6
Okay you’re getting some bad info here. Those zeee lipos are perfect for the voltage. Just make sure to change the battery setting from NiMH to lipo while using them. And buy some of these while you’re at it, since they are a weak point on that car:
Oh tits. I got one of those and bought some of these. I hope they fit. I bought some brass axle extenders for scx24 for Devastator but the nut didn't fit the axle. Couldn't find what I needed.
Tackle box or a tool backpack. Tool backpacks are great for having a place for your tools, batteries, transmitter and spare parts in one place.
Those MIP hex bits really are the best out there. I replaced some Hudy bits with them and the difference in quality is amazing. They grabbed screw heads that the Hudy bits rounded out.
I use them in my Milwaukee driver and it makes assembly/disassembly a breeze. For those times I don't want to use a cordless driver, I bought one of these bit driver handles. They make a ratcheting version of this same driver that I've been thinking about getting.
I also have this set, FAR nicer for a fraction of the cost of the "hobbyshop" tools. Made in USA as well.
For a compact hex driver that easily fits in a pocket I have this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQQDBPB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It was a bad servo. Got this servo horn to fit the aftermarket 25t servo. Stock horn didn't fit. 3 of the local dealers didn't know what fit it. Servo is still back ordered from Horizon.
I also ordered some other parts the horizon hobby. The website didn't say they were back ordered but of course they sent everything but the one part I actually wanted. Woe is me.
Maybe a Castle Copperhead 1/10 ESC/Motor combo?
As for servo, there are a lot of good options but I like this one: https://www.amazon.com/AGFrc-Waterproof-Programmable-Brushless-AGF-SPV2/dp/B082K8BM3Y
33 kg/cm (459 oz-in) and 0.083sec/60° at 7.4V which is decently powerful and very fast
Not sure if you already have a receiver and transmitter, but depending on what you have left after that there are some good options.
that one is partially built, so easier to get running.
It doesn't have upgrades so you might have to buy some extra parts for the power of your 3650/3s system but it would work.
this is the same one,
https://www.amazon.pl/TAMIYA-47326-47326-1-sterowany-modelarstwo/dp/B01M4R0N4K/
At some point this week I'm going to give it a hard run and update you guys through here. I'll make sure to note which type of terrain, batteries, outside temp and run time.
I'm using the adaptors from ACTruck without any issues. Not terribly expensive either: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X4JHFLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_N7Z77B6NHA03H7ABH5M9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B084MG5PCZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_AYM9Z61XGJ0A3CNH1Z9V
Here you go mate, I'm in the UK though so don't know whether that might be a hindrance to you.
Yeah I keep posting in here saying I'll try liquid mask after each body I do but then just never get round to buying any haha. I definitely will though!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P7ZBH5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_3AZVG5SN0H203YAYD2ET
I got one of these 4 years ago for my little brother and we have never broken a part. This little buggy will keep up with my losi xxxt and is practically indestructible. And upgrades are readily available and cheap
It's expensive, but by far the best mounting tape for ESCs and receivers in my experience:
https://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-Z8006-Vibration-Absorption-Sheet/dp/B002U2GS2K
I would actually recommend against the hobby grease. It’s just overpriced for what it is. I personally use this:
Mobil 102481 1 Synthetic Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1TLXC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KPWSDKXZE0PQPXZ710KV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would recommend going with the hobby diff fluid though. It’s pretty cheap and it goes a long way. If you buy brand name stuff, you’ll actually get what you’re buying. The Chinese cheap stuff will be A fluid, but who knows what viscosity...
This is the one I use no complaints whatsoever so far. You can buy with or without gyro in receiver but you can turn it all the way off if you want as well.
Have you checked out the brushed line of arrma vehicles? I have more arrma knowledge than traxxas. My boy likes the slash they scoot around. Parts are pretty available. But I also hear you may want to sink some $$ into it to just upgrade the shocks and such.
Instead the link below has the EC3 connectors on it that your voltage already has so you won’t need adapters, unless your truck really has deans, some used to have this I guess
Also is a charger that I used. It’s super slow but keeps batteries from getting hot during charging and served me very well.
Zeee 7.4V 2S 5200mAh Lipo Battery 50C Hard Case Battery with EC3 Plug for 1/8 1/10 RC Vehicles Car Traxxas Slash X-Maxx RC Buggy Truggy RC Airplane UAV Drone(2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DD38XKV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CN5F51MVM0N72GCXVWYQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
B3 RC LiPo 2S-3S Battery Balancer Charger 7.4V-11.1V RC Pro Compact Charger B3AC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XR87987/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7ZSGB697ADXCZJG1E0TW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They make thermal glue.
​
https://www.amazon.com/GENNEL-Conductive-Silicone-Adhesive-Compound/dp/B072MSXHJD
Sure thing! These fit perfectly. Still use plastic dog bones but the axle stubs are metal.
Redcat Racing Official Car Parts Kt12 Version 2 Driveshafts Axles Differential Cups https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P6N9CN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H54ZDF95Z69H9YVVSRCC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
i use one of these for my race days and have never had a problem charging up to three 2S batteries (between 5000 - 8000 mah) 4 times each: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KC39BE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
do either of your chargers have DC input?
I have a jeep Cherokee body from Axial that came with the grill and headlight buckets. The rear was just stickers though.
I think you can find Wrangler and Cherokee hard bodies on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081Q4CD92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_B4YCVXBPW0EPG8Q97E9F
There is also Killer bodyRC
http://www.killerbodyrc.com/page/products.aspx?cid=20&sid=51
I think traxxas makes a brushless motor kit for the slash
The one I looked at was this a random site I found suggested that Hosim was a decent brand or at least had a popular model.
Just looked up the Granite on Arrma's site and it looks like they are backordered at the moment.
Also I should mention that if any models take 18650 cells directly, then I do already have a charger and some on hand that may work.
The granite voltage now comes with a standard 7.2 nimh which is cheap to buy another in high capacity and is 2s lipo combative and here are the steel drive cups, they aren’t originally designed for it but they fit and work Great https://www.amazon.com/Arrma-AR310432-Input-Shaft-7x18mm/dp/B00NE0FJSQ/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=Arrma+310432+input+shaft+cup&qid=1611195072&sr=8-8
AWANFI 3S Lipo Battery 11.1V 5000mAh 60C LiPo RC Battery Hardcase Pack with EC5 Plug for RC Cars Truck Boats(2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B4K58TQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_7cqaGbRE6GZNS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I picked up the $15 set of titanium hex drivers off amazon and a precision tool set for like $10. And I picked up a 5.5mm pack of combination wrenches for my kaiju as using the precision driver was tough in a certain spot.
The hex drivers and precision set would have honestly been enough.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071PB4RPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UKD-FbXHA6D6Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_knIPmLPgtIk63
These were what I got.
I recently got one of these and it's working well for cleaning out my cars / trucks.
https://www.amazon.com/Compressed-MECO-High-Pressure-Computer-Keyboard/dp/B082XR3987/
Found them on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082DG67LR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I mounted them to some weather stripping I have around the sides of the chassis to keep dirt out. The adhesive plus some glue, they are sticking good so far.
Plugged into an extra channel on my receiver
Honestly they were just the cheapest ones I could find on n Amazon 😅. The originals were so dry rotted that they were peeling apart!
Pretty sure it was these: https://www.amazon.com/INJORA-4PCS-Rubber-Wheel-Tires/dp/B071V4VZ8P/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=2.2+tires
With this battery. You'll need to cut off the existing end and solder the traxxas connector on. After you put the traxxas end together that is. I sent mine back. It's just easier to order exactly what you need than dick around.
If you're planning on using the battery in different rides I guess. Or cut off Traxxas ends off an old dead battery leaving some wire attached to work with and just solder wires together. Don't forget the heat shrink...
You could buy an adapter to save cutting and soldering. But why add the expense, and the extra connection and risk of shorting out when you can just order a battery with the traxxas end already attached?
But yes it will fit.
You'll need something Like this
Hope you've read up on properly using, charging and storing Lipo batteries?
Side note, if that truck is brand new.
RTR usually means ready to run out of the box. Means has batteries n charger with it.