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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/MechanicAdvice:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/MechanicAdvice:
ConsumerReports.org
Walmart
Facebook Marketplace
RetailMenot
Jet.com
TinyPic
SlideShare
Shutterstock
Opera Add-ons
imgbox
Greasy Fork
DuckDuckGo
Amazon
TinyURL
HackADay
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/MechanicAdvice:
Torque Pro (OBD 2 & Car)
Torque Lite (OBD2 & Car)
Dash - Drive Smart
aCar - Car Management, Mileage
Ulysse Speedometer
Fuel Buddy - Car Management; Fuel and Mileage Log
Piston (OBD2 & ELM327)
Google Opinion Rewards
Advanced EX for HYUNDAI
Google Translate
The most popular reviews in /r/MechanicAdvice:
Step 0 - Buy some wheel ramps.
We have five cars at my house now (multiple teen drivers) and I change everyone's oil. Ramps are a godsend.
is that a toyota key? looks like you can swap out the guts and the key itself so you don't need to get a new one cut. just don't break the RFID capsule or you're fucked.
https://smile.amazon.com/UTSAUTO-HYQ12BBY-2008-2013-2007-2011-2009-2014/dp/B07NW7JK9T/ref=sr_1_3
Fyi, a great thing to add to your tool box is a security bit set. They have all these stupid screw types.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10048A-Security-Vanadium-100-Piece/dp/B000O5XDOG
Or hammer a socket on, They dont look like they are special keys just fluted lugnuts to look like they are keyed.
Hey OP
If you make an amazon wishlist and place these two items on it, I will buy them for you.
When you create a wishlist you can have your shipping address hidden. It just lets people buy shit for you.
After you did this, pm me a link to your amazon wishlist and I will buy you the wheel chocks and jack stands.
Just paying shit forward.
I dunno I wouldve thought its a bad stepper motor. If you can de solder and solder its an easy fix to pull that cluster apart. My shop charges 150 for that. if thats what it is.
https://www.amazon.com/Instrument-Cluster-Stepper-Silverados-Soldering/dp/B075T13T2D
Impact screwdriver. Note: I'm thinking the one that you hit with a sledge, not the one you'd use to install drywall screws or something..
This is one of many examples. Be aware that they can also usually be used for TIGHTENING, so make sure it's set right before whacking it.
Also comes in handy for removing Honda brake rotor screws!
He's got it's terminology wrong. It's a recessed male fitting under that cover. A standard extension cord would plug into it. No suicide needed.
Car Fuses 100pcs Assorted Standard Blade Fuse Set 2A 3A 5A 7.5A 10A 15A 20A 25A 30A 35A, OUHL Auto Truck Car Fuses Kit Boat SUV Automotive Replacement Fuse, Puller Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZXC6GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b.G7DbE6QMMR1
Alright, thanks a lot. I have to replace the whole thing, right? I found a unit on Amazon for $113. https://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA13012161558-Module-Assembly-Civic/dp/B01LYSG8TM/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X705KHYYN06AF49YPKZS
Pick up one of these for next time. It threads right into the bottle cap and allows you to pump the oil in.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000OIFCGK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_g-lbGbHAYVB31?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I found an ad from 1991 being sold on Amazon as a collectible vintage piece. You definitely should not be driving on any tires that could be considered "collectible" due to age.
https://www.amazon.com/1991-Goodyear-Invicta-GS-Tires/dp/B00GIMXC3G
Looks like it calls for a 75w90 GL4 gear oil.
See if they used GL4 or GL5. Most shops do not carry GL4 and many do not know the difference. For a differential it does not really matter GL4 vs GL5. But if the trans calls for, and only, GL4 then it needs GL4. GL4 is not common and is harder to find. I order mine through amazon. Redline, Pennzoil, AC Delco, and some others make it.
Some manual transmission are more sensitive to using the wrong fluid.
Go back and have them order GL4. If they say the fluid they use says GL5/4 tell them that rating is for Diffs only, not manual transmissions.
Like this for example...
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C43BLLS/
What this guy said, I’d grind it flat, drill it as wide as the outer diameter because it looks like it tapers. Then tap a metal barb fitting with a hose clamp. One like this but maybe a different size depending on the hole size. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K43WSF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yIGoCb0PGDQN Good luck man I know you’ll get it.
It's a complete scam and does nothing. Sell it to someone you don't like for $5 Big Clive yt video covers exactly this product. You know it's a scam because it says you have to drive 150miles before it "starts working"
https://www.amazon.com/Tuning-SuperOBD2-Torque-NitroOBD2-vehicles/dp/B01DKHRR0A
Real mechanic and they didn't even bother to test drive to experience what the customer went through. Did they just throw a diagnostic dice and decided that's the problem? Gods know.
A no spill coolant funnel. It saves mess, burns and aggravation. Just fill it half full and let the air burp out while you tend to other things.
EPAuto Spill Proof Radiator Coolant Filling Funnel Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1q3zAb7ZPJXM1
Might want to read that, based on what I quickly read the cost should be totally covered by the dealership if a problem is found.
Overcharged can mean many different things. You paid market rate but many folks in this sub think that's too much. Let me show you why:
The cabin air filter goes for about $16 on Amazon.
Here's a video that shows how to change it out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AvbKoUgAhI
Now, you didn't know that until just now and you made the best decision possible with the information you had at the time. Next time, maybe you want to save ~$50 and do it yourself. Either way, don't second guess the choice to maintain your vehicle.
Just a shadetree here, but I got a refractometer for testing coolant. They can be found pretty cheap online these days.
Something like this
Buy a wax wheel save your self the headache and useless hours wasted with so called adhesive removers and countless dirty rags.
Here’s a link
3M Stripe Off Wheel Adhesive Remover Eraser Wheel Removes Decals, Stripes, Vinyl, Tapes and Graphics 4” diameter x 5/8” thick 3/8-16 threaded mandrel 07498 Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063VT0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DNG2DQK75A2KK4NKZPMZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm just a tinker too, but if he doesn't have a scan tool to reader error codes, look at the new Bluetooth sets. Plug in to the OBD2 port and download the app to you phone. Get all the codes and internet research in one, plus see engine manager info on some models.
They're not expense and are available on Amazon. This is similar the one I have. and there are a lot of options out there.
Alternatively, you can get a case of it which would be the easier option. Here is a leather one
Or there are also silicone versions available:)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPYW4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v2G5AbS30MM51
^^^this is my go to favorite seal puller for crank, cam, and rear main seals. A wood screw will work but with this tool it's literally mindless and near impossible to mess up.
The mechanic in me likes the idea, but I do wonder if it will get knocked off by a rock, a log, or other debris on the road.
Years ago I fell in love with the Mityvac Extractors.
No lifting the car, no crawling around; just jam the tube down the dipstick tube, hit a button, and Viola! Oil is sucked out.
For those who say there will be oil left, there's not. If it's an ounce out of a gallon, I'd be surprised.
Do this in the garage, the driveway - wherever. Better yet, have your teenager do it Just make sure he tightens the cap after adding oil!
It's embarrassing as hell to pull up to the valet and your car is smoking like a Kuwaiti oil rig.
Make sure the issues aren't caused by a crack in the block causing coolant loss. There's an extended warranty you can read about here
My craftsman mower manual said to use the wrong plug. Glad I checked the thread depth before I used it. The one on the left is likely accurate. This was the replacement plug I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYR3B4
A lot of the compressed air cans for air dusting have a bitter propellant added to them to help prevent huffing. And turning them upside down releases that bitter additive. And that stuff sucks. Last time I encountered it it left that taste on my lips for a solid day. No matter how much I tried to wash it off. Learned from experience doing some electronic work 10 years ago when 3M changed their formula.
However, the make specific product for freezing, freeze spray. Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Freeze-Liquefied-Aerosol-Trigger/dp/B000ICBP68#customerReviews
I think we're talking about an impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer. Like this. Not sure what kind of a bit you would use, though. Maybe a torx, one size up, like someone else on this thread mentioned.
You are probably going to need a new one. Check eBay or amazon Amazon link Left Driver Side Sun Visor Fit for 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 Toyota Camry &Toyota Camry Hybrid 2007-2011Without Sunroof and Light-Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXYDSC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-bFLDbE0NZFPT
Or if you want to go the cheap easy way just use some sticky back Velcro and hold it up.
I have a set of sockets for removing studs they have cams inside so when you spin them on the stud they lock. Amazon link
Usually there's a good center-spot on the front and rear for the entire end of the car, then put the jack stands in the proper place under the pinch weld.
If you don't have them already, get some of these to keep your pinch welds from getting bent up and rusty.... ...https://smile.amazon.com/DEDC-Universal-Slotted-Rubber-Medium/dp/B01MQD0YXO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520305806&sr=8-6&keywords=jack+pinch+weld+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Shankly-Twist-Socket-Remover-Sockets/dp/B076WQMSVB?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
it will take them off but they won't go back on
they also sell master wheel lock socket sets on there too, which kind of defeats the point of having locks to begin with :(
Manual impact driver. Pretty much an essential tool, and it's the only thing that works reliably well on those.
Get yourself a big pair of channel locks. Overtightened oil filters is pretty much all I use them for, but they're worth it just for that.
edit: oops, thought this was r/justrolledintotheshop. Probably not worth the expense for a DIYer, but it's still the best tool for the job, imo.
> You are going to get fucked with. Hard.
Yep, expect plenty of snipe hunts, and if you really want to set yourself apart, plan for them.
If they send you on a parts run to get a bottle of blinker fluid, tell 'em your car uses that and have one in your car. Muffler bearings? Yep, those are actually a real thing - they're used in exhaust cutouts and a few performance cars with variable muffler airflow routing use them as well - but a suitable substitute for derailing that snipe hunt would be a pair of bearings from inline skates or skateboards. Relative bearing grease is harder to plan for, so be imaginative. (A tube of grease with a compass glued onto it was the best idea I've seen.)
Impossible to suggest the connection if I don't know the application nor the loads. That joint needs to freely rotate so it can't be bolted tight. The hole needs clearance. If it carries load, it will need a bearing of some sort. What kind? Depends on speed, load and lubrication.
This is the book I used in engineering school. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Handbook-Machine-Design-Shigley-ebook/dp/B000TIF8D2
Ginsco 102pcs 6.3mm 8mm 9mm 10mm Nylon Bumper Push Fasteners Rivet Clips Expansion Screws Replacement Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BMVZ8R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EZ5dDb16ZRKB5
One of those should probably do it. You could try measuring the hole
For the record, an impact screwdriver does wonders on those.
It has a big phillips bit, and can be set to either tighten or loosen when you hit the back end with a small(or large) sledge. The sledge encourages the bit to not slip out at the same time as doing the turn.
As others have said. Drill the rest of that screw out, you really don't need to go much deeper before it lets go, if you use a slightly larger bit(larger than the hole in the rotor, check the new rotor's hole size). Before I got impact driver, when they got stuck I'd drill the head off and then the screw beneath is only finger tight.
You know how to use a multimeter? Disconnect negative cable, put meter in series with battery, set to amperage. Then pull fuses one at a time until you get 0 amps being pulled. This will at least tell you what's causing it. Also this thingy
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Knife-Switch-Terminal/dp/B06XD9344Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1517617758&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Car+battery+post+switch&psc=1
This post is likely fake, as user phikshin33 spotted it's a stock photo.
https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/auto-mechanic-removing-dirty-air-filter-1085479
https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/how-to-change-your-cars-air-filter/
Maybe jiffylube would like to know? :p
plug in an OBD2 scan tool and check for codes..
or turn the key to the run position.. if you have a digital odometer instead of a mechanical odometer. you can turn the key to the run position.. then quickly off, on, off on, off on.. 3 times in the run position within 4 seconds get chrysler digital speedometers to change to code displays..
if you don't have a digital odometer. count the flashing check engine light ..
if you have an android cell phone or tablet.. you can get this OBD2 dongle from BAFX in bluetooth.. if you use an Apple phone. then you need the slightly more expensive wifi version.. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS
you will need a phone app to work with that but there are dozens of free ones.. including torque light..
you can also get a code scanner from autozones. plug it in. turn the key on.. follow instructions on it.. return it to the parts counter.. they will access it and print out your codes.. with a warning.. they do sell autoparts there and the advice printed may sell you parts that may or may not be bad.. so it would be on to a proper diagnosis of that circuit/device.. just because you find a P0420.. does not always mean the cats need to be changed.. you could have any number of issues.. the neat thing about 1996 and newer models.. you can actually see live data stream from the computer thru the dongle or a decent scan tool live on the screen you can also graph some of the data streams..
what does all that mean.. start with codes.. post the codes ..its easier with OBD2 than it was with OBD1 on some brands..
but the first step.. verify the electrical connections using the voltage drop test i posted please.. don't skip that test..
It's also worth noting that Torque Pro might not even you cost anything on Android if you download Google Opinion Rewards.
If you're using an Apple product, you CANNOT use a Bluetooth ELM327 OBDII scanner; has to be a WiFi ELM327.
I have close to this same set but newer. The packaging changed but everything else looks the same. Mine is a 69 piece I got off Amazon on cyber Monday 2014 for like $35. Here it is full price. I tried finding just a 9/32nd but can’t find one. I could always send you mine. I have a short and deep in a 9/32nd and I barely use standard and typically use the metric side
TIL about this tool, and bought one! I've always just used a really small allen key but this looks so much better.
bleed the system properly.
I can almost guarantee you have air in the system. if you're not noticing the level dropping.
to bleed the car properly watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU
you can get that funnel off amazon Lisle spill free funnel
you can certainly do it without that funnel but you'll be in for a messy/sticky job and you'll let fluid spill all over the damn place.
That is where the CPS should be located. Im not certain as I haven't seen one in person, but there should be a place to mount the CPS on the '96 that does not exist on the '94 and if you can find that mounting point (be it a valve cover, cam cover, or part of the block shroud) and replace JUST that, you should be able to mount it.
My apologies as I'm not sure if that makes an iota of sense, but good luck!
If you use a torque limiter usually called a torque stick the air impact only applies that much torque.
Based on your symptoms it sounds like they UNDER TORQUED the lug nuts and yes would be 100% liable.
That's no good, friend.
I feel lucky that a couple of my old timer mentors were old-school mountaineer types, because they transferred that preparedness mindset to the shop -- always keeping as mentally sharp as possible at all times by getting necessary rest, water, and food. Because of them, I still keep water, pedialyte and granola bars above the workbench.
I got bad heat exhaustion back in 2007, stupidly, building a fence during a heatwave. But I'd been trained on the symptoms and escaped a bad situation:
I specifically asked what year OP's Civic is because '06-'09 Civic engines (except hybrid and Si) are covered by an extended manufacturer's warranty.
It's called the Mini-Ductor Venom Induction Heater
I would get a cheaper one, since this one is a bit pricy. But, it worked like a charm %100!
It was literally the only thing that got that sparkplug out. Worth it.
I use this. Installed in a hole in the bumper usually.
I picked up this camera from Amazon and a USB to micro USB adapter. Works great with standard apps, probably works on a computer too but I didn't try. Has its own light, plus mirror and other accessories. Small enough to fit down a spark plug hole and use as a bore scope. For awkward spaces, bend some solid wire around the cord and fish as needed.
Can't beat the flexibility for the price.
Replacing a valve core should be cheap, under $50 if the shop has the tool linked below.
Most shops have a nifty tool that lets you swap core valves without dumping the system charge.
- Mastercool (81490) R134A Valve Core Remover Installer Change cores while under pressure
https://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-81490-R134A-Remover-Installer/dp/B000KITSMI
Actually on Amazon you can also buy both new valve cores and the tool for $48
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-26783-Conditioning-System/dp/B0023TQEFQ/
The way that I'd tackle this is to put the system on a pressure tester (you can rent one from a parts store), and see if it holds pressure, but it probably won't.
Use this time to try to locate any leaks that the system has, as a leak my not start until, say 12 PSI.
If you don't see any external leaks, you'll want a block tester. Your local parts store may have one, but no promises there.
If it fails this test, you have major engine issues and it may just be time to hunt for a newer vehicle, as a "new" engine may fail soon and would be worth more than the car, and new parts would cost more than the car's worth, and something else could fail soon anyway. In the meantime, I would just keep adding ~~tap~~ distilled water (assuming that you are in warm weather) and use that car to find another.
If for some reason the block tester, when used correctly, says that there no issues with the engine, you may have overlooked something and it would be worthwhile to get it professionally diagnosed.
If I missed anything, please let me know!
It’s probably a bad ground. Try out a ground loop isolator, like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cfHMPtUQQ6mmD
I use it in my Mazda 3, plugged into the aux/audio port in the glove box. It removes static background noise.
Get a "Big Nasty" air hammer. It was one of those tools that I had purchased a few years ago and wished I had purchased one a couple of decades ago. 20 seconds of hammering around the wheel studs knocks free most stuck rotors. In really stubborn cases, I'll get a puller to put some tension on the rotor, then hit it with big nasty. *POP* goes the rotor!
You don't need a drill. Just notch the head as others have suggested and then use an impact screwdriver.
GOOACC 240PCS Bumper Retainer Clips Car Plastic Rivets Fasteners Push Retainer Kit Most Popular Sizes Auto Push Pin Rivets Set -Door Trim Panel Fender Clips for GM Ford Toyota Honda Chrysler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6FJGR4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glc_fabc_YDS9Z0EPKJG99R0TS9VH
The oil pressure switch (above the orange dipstick handle in the photo, with the electrical connector attached) has a small rubber O-ring. Any leaks from there, you can fix with a new O-ring.
It might be this part number, but you can confirm with your Honda dealer parts dept., before buying.
The color battery you get is random from these guys, I got two black/yellow and two red/black. I've owned two of them for a year now and the other two I bought about 3-4 months ago. I use them mostly in my impact and BT jobsite radio but I also run drills, saws, and grinders with them.
Your car has a Toyota U series transmission. Possibly a u151. You should only put Toyota WS fluid in it. Nothing else. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_U_transmission
There are some caps available on Amazon
https://smile.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-26783-Conditioning-System/dp/B0023TQEFQ?sa-no-redirect=1
Might want to check with Autozone for vehicle specific ones, but I'm pretty sure all r-134 ports should be the same.
The fuel pump in a Cavalier is pretty easy to replace yourself. You could end up doing it for $60-100. If you don't have the time or confidence, source a fuel pump from Amazon, or a local Napa and have someone you trust install it. A shop will charge 1.5-2hrs labor, which should end up around $200 + part. A quote of $780 is too high, even if they buy an OEM pump straight from a GM dealer and mark it up.
Bottom line: if you aren't looking to get into a newer vehicle, this one can be fixed pretty cheap.
Honestly forget what its called but it is for his speakers. It helps them sound cleaner and maybe louder? When i have better service i will check google to see if i can find the name.
Edit: found it. A car amplifier. Link. GM Genuine Parts 20918769 Radio Speaker Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBI8VO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lGpHFbYT3SBZK
For the record, I'm not sure the glue is vindictive. I mean, it depends on what you may have done to it in the past, I suppose. Did you kill it's family? :)
I think you're looking for conductive glue. Permatex calls it 'rear window tab adhesive', you can get it on amazon or at your local auto parts store. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-21351-Electrically-Conductive-Defogger/dp/B000HBGKWE
I bought the BAFX Scanner for about $25, and then paid $5 for the Torque Pro app.
I think the excellent reviews speak for themselves, but I can look at all kinds of live data, codes, drive cycle status, etc. It's done everything and more than I expected for only $30 total.
If you have an Android phone or tablet then the Torque app and a Bluetooth adapter may be your cheapest option.
YES YES YES! SO MUCH THIS.
Advance Auto's prices with a coupon are right in line with RockAuto, plus I don't have to pay shipping (but I do have to pay sales tax). Plus I can get the part today.
I get my AA coupon codes here: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com
The colors were put there with this type of marker: https://www.amazon.com/Steelman-JSP10118-1-Ounce-Security-Seal/dp/B00NBTGFP6/ probably as a notice to future shops.
Maybe to tell shops to use an oil extractor pump to evacuate oil from above, and leave the drain plug well-enough-alone? Maybe.
You can get the same stuff that the local parts store sells on amazon for the same cost as steel coated lines.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1WBVT6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good call on wanting to rid the vacuum system, its garbage. I don't recall if the 97 had vacuum hubs or not, if it did, and someone put manual ones on, then you can use them on your vehicle.
Alternatively you can buy manual hubs from Amazon. I personally have these ones on my truck.
If you have amazon prime, you can get them for 243.99 each https://www.amazon.com/Michelin-LTX-All-Season-Radial-Tire/dp/B011OBB15G
You would just have to pay someone local to do the mounting and balancing. But at that point, you'd be better off just doing the whole thing local and not worrying about buying online, transporting them and such.
Or you can clear it out with a staple or pin. it’s a 30 second repair
Or with this:
FIRSTINFO Windscreen Windshield Washer Spray Nozzle Cleaner Needle Corrosion Blockage Removal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDNTLHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3A7GFbY72B5TZ
For those interested. My wife got me the same one in a chameleon chrome color. One button is a flashlight and the other makes the turbo sounds. If you hold it down long you hear the turbo spool and when you let go you can hear a blow off valve. If you just hold it shortly and release quickly it spools and then you hear turbo flutter.
Edit: The compressor/turbine wheel in the middle also spins. I love this little thing.
As /u/massive_poop mentioned, it's Torque Pro, however there is a better tool for Ford vehicles on Android that can do far more.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.astech.forscanlite&hl=en
With an adapter that has a MS/HS CAN switch it can do even more than that.
> pig putty
I jb weld'd a plastic gas tank for my lawn equip. idk the longevity of jb weld on a spot like that but marine epoxy or water weld can hold up on conditions for a semi-perm fix. This a common thing in the boat industry.
As the joke goes: If you can't afford a new Mercedes, you surely can't afford a used one!
You are at least getting a known entity, but all cars break, so it will need repairs. As long as you can budget for these, it might be a good way to go. Just be prepared. All repairs will hurt.
all of this and an air freshener.
if the smell is really bad go for one of these.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-Air-Freshener-New-Car/36448452
took the funk out of a 95 buick century that sat for 4 and a half years with one window a tiny bit down.
How much do you drive a year? How long do you plan too keep the car? Any snow driving?
A decent cheap tire for less than $50 is the Hankook Optimo H724
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hankook-Optimo-H724-Tire-P185-65R14/17792794
A good long life tire for that even works ok in snow is the General RT43
https://www.walmart.com/ip/General-Altimax-RT43-Tire-185-65R14-86H/42955373
Get one of these(https://jet.com/product/detail/950460b30f2444698674345d6cfc4d26?jcmp=pla:ggl:hardware_a3:power_electrical_supplies_power_inverters_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=09ecc039-1fe5-4ef6-8163-640a5895c342&abkId=403-496161&... ) and tie in as close to the batteries as you can so you know you aren't pulling any large amounts of amperage over circuits that can't handle it, I'm not familiar with the wiring of these, it might be safe to tie in anywhere but better safe than sorry.
Costco sells a nice one for $600, I am not a mechanic though. Costco does however have a great warranty.
I drove a Mercedes-Benz equipped with this feature earlier this year and that one had the option to keep it disabled for your preferred driving style. There was an easy access button on the center console, and an option in the vehicle's configuration settings on the media display and cluster.
If the manufacturer didn't provide you an option setting through the car's configuration/settings menus or another instrument, then your safest bet is to come up with a device that "pushes" the temporary disable button every time you start the car. Someone did something similar to this for their sport mode here, hopefully yours shouldn't be so complicated.
Since this is not a standardized feature, there isn't a general solution that works across all makes.
Like everyone said you'd need to see the underside of the filter. Also, is that even your car?
https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/auto-mechanic-removing-dirty-air-filter-1085479
You can get your alternator tested at most auto parts stores like Autozone or O'Reilly. You can also inspect the belts for cracking, etc fairly easily.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/01/how-to-inspect-belts-and-hoses/index.htm
This is a car mechanic subreddit, not mechanical engineering advice.
That said, you should be able to come up with your own design; pendulum calculations are pretty simple.
Start here: https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/simple-pendulum
If you dont need to pass emissions cover it the exhaust with this. (Make sure it’s the right size for your exhaust).
Other people already mentioned but this is just for data collection your cars efficiency should stay the same.
You are looking for something like this but I cant help you find anything locally. The key with motorcycles is they sometimes use spark plug sizes that are not the same as cars so make sure the adapter fits your bike. Your bike shop should be able to run the same tests if requested. While your driving style does matter they should be able to prove their case by providing test results even if its a test ride, so consider another shop if you dont want to do this on your own.
https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-HW0130-Cylinder-Compression-Automotive/dp/B00SKSAB8U
That “just cut a notch in it and use a screw driver!” Method has never ever worked for me. If a ratchet with much more leverage wasn’t able to get it out, a screw driver most certainly won’t either.
Try using these extractors.
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-Spiral-Extractors-53545/dp/B001D1FXDE
You drill a hole in the bolt, pound these in and try and spin it using a wrench or vice grips for some leverage. Project farm did a video and it was one of the highest recommendations.
I know for a fact this tester works on your car, because i own it and I'm a European tech and I've pressure tested literally hundreds of cars with it. I've owned it for 10 years and it's never not worked on a car.
Otherwise you could buy the exact tester adapter from AST tools on their website along with the pressure tester, but it will be a little pricey.
Our just take it in to get pressure tested by a shop, rather than buy a $100 tool
I say to run it more to find out what is happening exactly, white smoke is normal when something hasn't run in a while it usually goes away pretty fast tho. It's probably just rust, but to do double-check id run a compression test on it. if you don't have a tester you can buy here or here, I have the second one and it works exactly the way I need it to.
Try this:
3M Plastic and Emblem Adhesive, 08061, 5 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MID28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_P2HC6871ZSM68DP29KE1
Any auto body supply store in a bigger city should have it if you don’t want to wait for Amazon.
Good luck-
Pretty basic, but works awesome. I've had it for about a year and use it daily without any issues. Sound quality is good connects to my phone for bluetooth calls, music, podcasts, etc.
Triax Gear Max MT 75W-80 GL-4, Full Synthetic Manual Transmission and Gear Box, Compatible with Chrysler MS 9224, Honda MTF, and Toyota Differential (1 Quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WJVD5J3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5RDYY2Z694EWA5GCS1C4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Close enough
NMO Rain caps painted the same color of the color would help you if its that bothersome. Amazon link for example. Measure them out and see how big they are but I am here at work and redirects are blocked but hole plugs for 3/4" NMO antenna spots
Professional tech here. I love this one. Use the Torque app on the appstore. Costs about 5 bucks and the scanner is 12. Had mine for 2 years and it still works great.
May want to specify what type of spray bottle used? Some plastic ones will melt with acetone.
Those refillable ones are usually metal:
Buy from Crutchfield. They'll help you find the right unit, faceplate and wiring harness. It'll come with instructions on how to remove the old faceplate and radio and install the new one. Make sure you buy the wiring harness from them. Screwing up the wiring harness is the #1 mistake DIYers make cause they're too cheap to buy a custom made harness from Crutchfield. Go to amazon and buy a set of nylon trim removal tools so you don't nick/scratch the dash trim. The only other tools you need are screwdrivers.
I recommend this one. Has been superb for me after getting a cheap 15$ one and it failed.
I have 2 cars I don't drive. I thought hey I'll just use one trickle charger and charge the other battery every so often. Well life does what life does and suffice to say I now have one perfect battery and a dead battery.