http://www.zdnet.com/volkswagen-passat-tdi-is-todays-car-of-the-future-7000000591/
Overall, diesel engines are far less complicated than gasoline powered cars, so over the lifetime of a car, they have a lot less mechanical problems. They also have an incredible longevity compared with gasoline engines -- because of the high compression ratio they need to run at, the engine blocks have to be heavier and much more solidly built. And they can handle hotter weather better than gasoline engines.
As I have read on a number of TDI enthusiast sites, as the vehicles get older, the cars tend to fall apart around the engine, not the other way around. There's no reason why a diesel engine if properly serviced cannot last 20 years. In fact, many of the TDIs built in the 1990s are still on the road, as are Mercedes-Benz diesels from the 1980s.
> That's going to happen because of cars being all over the place no matter what.
No, gas engines emit about 1/20 the NOx per gallon burned as diesels. That's why EPA and CARB set these requirements on diesel engines to reduce NOx.
> It's a California emissions requirement.
This is a national requirement implemented by EPA. CARB also has similar requirements that apply only to California, but the real story here is that VW lied to consumers across the country.
> Many states don't even bother with diesel emissions.
These emissions are regulated at the federal level on engine manufacturers. States can choose to implement stricter regulations (like California), but most choose to simply go with the federal limits. This is actually a good thing since it's very difficult for engine manufacturers to have to make different models for different states.
> Besides, gas emissions are smaller and weigh less, so they persist in the air longer and go deeper into your lungs. Diesel emissions are larger and heavier, so they sink faster and don't go as deep into your lungs.
NOx is NOx, regardless of the type of fuel that created it. EPA regulates 6 common air pollutants, of which NOx is only one. Gas and diesel engines produce different amounts of the 6 pollutants per gallon burned and thus each type of engine has regulations specific to the pollutants that each type of engine produces. Besides NOx, diesel engines also produce more particulates (soot), and EPA also has regulations specific to diesel engines to control this. The particulate emissions might be what you are thinking of when you say that diesel emissions are "heavier." The relative density of the emissions has nothing to do with how long they persist as a pollutant or how much they impact human health.
Alternatively you can order the Philips LEDs, those are in Stock in the US https://www.amazon.com/PHILIPS-Ultinon-Bulbs-6200K-11972ULX2/dp/B07C5RMKFW
I have the Osram ones installed in my Audi A4 B7 TDI, they work like a charm
Not bad, a couple hour project. I didn’t go oem,l. It cost me a third as much, and I’m happy with the results. I used: RP Remarkable Power, FL7113 Fit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3V2LAQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (ended up being a great fit, and nice quality), a yellow vw repair wire, and a used oem us spec headlight switch with fogs.
MKV? mine was doing that as well I just got these clear upholstery screws and screwed them to hold it up and keep it from getting any worse. Staples didn't hold for a long time and the screws were a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the entire headliner. https://www.amazon.com/KUUQA-Pieces-Upholstery-Slipcovers-Bedskirts/dp/B07QQRDJ7W/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=upholstery+screws&qid=1606002468&sr=8-6
Additionally, I will never have the dealership change it again. Charged me $130 for a $40 part that takes 4 minutes to change. Did the first one without priming....realized I'm an idiot and bought a VCDS. Pays for itself in one fuel filter. This is the one i bought, I really only need it to be able to diagnose/prime.
Yeah. I did a top-fill using a nifty tool from Amazon. I drained using the exterior metal plug and let it stop. Then removed the inner plastic tube and let it drain all the way out. While that was goin I removed the battery and intake box, removed the filter and cleaned the inner threads as well as the filter housing. Applied clean fluid around the new seal and replaced in the channel it sits in. I then replaced the inner tube drain plug and stuck my funnel and tube tool directly into the hole where the filter rests and filled 1L at a time. Then replaced the exterior drain plug hand-tight and let the transmission get up to temperature. Car was fairly hot from driving earlier in the day still so it was pretty quick to drain and get back up to temp. Let it run and then removed the metal plug to drain excess and then torqued it back in with the fresh washer. Easy peasy!
The tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xVzKBbGV45VK5
Responsive dev. Very customizable. Has every feature you can think of that you might want for tracking vehicle expenses. App has existed forever. Had I not lost my data (my fault, not the apps), I'd still be using it.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.zonewalker.acar
This one is working pretty well for me, its also the best price i could find on it currently. It connects via bluetooth to your android phone. I use "Torque Pro" which is only $5, This has been very helpful in seeing the basic datapoints in my TDI, everything from load, boost, MAF, coolant temps, +alot. Best $15 buck i've spent and you can use it to read/clear codes! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vgate-iCar-ELM327-Bluetooth-OBD2-Car-Diagnostics-Scanner-ON-OFF-Power-Switch-/231542433251?hash=item35e90125e3&item=231542433251&vxp=mtr
Torque for android phones/systems: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en
http://www.costco.com/auto-program-services.html
Basically it's a way to drive sales for a dealer. The dealer signs up with Costco and Costco beats them up until they have a price sheet with good, pre-negotiated, no-haggle prices for every car on their lot, basically.
You sign up on the website, they direct your info to the dealer, the dealer calls you, you go buy a car. (this last part is totally optional - you aren't committing to anything by signing up with Costco Auto)
A few things: only one dealer in each region gets signed up for it, that's why they compete, that's how costco keeps it cheap. You can't get the "costco price" anywhere, only at specific dealers. The dealer won't tell you how much the deal is on your car over the phone, makes it too easy to comparison shop. Part of the agreement is you have to go to the dealer to talk with them. That's how they drive business and make it worth their while. You also get a 50% off coupon once it's all over for service or something.
My 2012 Golf TDI with the DPF stuff states that it MUST have 507 00 5W30 spec diesel oil, not 505 00 or anything else. My local towns, of course, do not sell anything other than 505 00 so I had to order this oil on amazon ($CAD pricing), still ridiculously expensive for 5L of oil but I'd rather have the proper spec oil on hand than mix oil weights. My owners manual states that you can, if you absolutely have to, mix no more than 1/2 a litre of 505 00 or similar spec just to get by.I have no idea on filters though, you'll have to cross reference some parts lists.
​
Also you should have a sticker under your hood near the grill that states exactly the kind of oil your car needs.
I run the brightest philips bulbs I can find on amazon. They seem to last just as long as anything from the local parts store but they tend to me a lot cheaper. something like theses
check coolant temp sensor. it affects fueling. if in doubt, spend the $12 and get a new one. not sure if the one from autozone has an oring, but the one on amazon does
https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-158-0629-Coolant-Temperature/dp/B001UEBXNS
I purchased them off amazon surprisingly Ill add a link, the height is stock, but I am planning on getting H&R coilovers then I’ll be changing my wheels to BBS SR’s 18x8 ET45 5x112. And thank you man I wanted to be really mature with this car since I am only 20 so I have been trying to make it look like the owner is not a child
Amazon link for headlights: VIPMOTOZ For 2015-2017 Volkswagen Golf GTI LED DRL Off-Road Smoke Lens Headlights, Driver & Passenger Side https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0736BFWPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SACeCb89W92ZN
The install is fairly simple there are a lot of youtube videos on it, I would recommend upgrading the high beams and turn signals to led’s before installing them. I didn’t do it on mine and now I am too lazy to take off the headlights just to change the bulbs. Btw buy the low beam led upgrade or else you will have led lookalike halogens, $100 more but worth it.
haha ditto - Electricity is $.12/kWh and I run mine for 4 hours so it costs $.48 per night.
I also got a Windshield cover that hooks around your mirrors (elastic straps) so I don't have to scrape my windshield in the morning. Ill link to one available on Amazon, its not the exact model as I got mine from Costco with the mirror covers as well (never use em) but not everyone has a Costco or is a member. As such I cant vouch for durability of the below just that it is of similar design.
https://www.amazon.com/OxGord-Windshield-Removal-Protector-Scraping/dp/B01AOHYT50/
Recently my headlights kept going out and I was just dumping senseless money into bulbs so I ended up buying a whole new unit, the housing that I purchased were on amazon which made them super fast delivery and quality product, I purchased the Spec D Euro black projector, here is the link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016RXD0PA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Personally I love the look but ill let you decide for yourself!
So I went ahead and order this kit from amazon. Will be here Sunday. I can’t imagine it will hurt anything but it could certainly help.
Air Lift 80753 Air Lift 1000 Front Air Spring Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047DTDH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mO1XEbEKHC93P
> ALH was the last generation before CR, so it is worth mentioning.
It really isn't worth mentioning, because it is no more applicable than regulations from the 1960s.
> because the arbitrary goalposts got moved by the EPA.
Environmental standards get stricter over time. It's intended to make sure that we have clean air and water and aren't dying from smog. You're probably too young to remember what the LA Basin looked like in the 1970s. But hey, if you don't like it then feel free to move to China.
OKAY.
I made two new videos.
COLD ENGINE: https://onedrive.live.com/embed?cid=B0AB15012594D690&resid=B0AB15012594D690%21380400&authkey=AAdGGUeD2gUqBWk
WARMED UP after driving 50 miles:
Let me know your thoughts...
I run Archoil AR6500 ever since replacing my CP3/fuel system. I wanna believe...... https://www.amazon.com/Archoil-AR6500-Diesel-Treatment-40-6/dp/B09KS9JMDP?pd_rd_w=9u53e&content-id=amzn1.sym.3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&pf_rd_p=3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&pf_rd_r=JMH9MH39Y6H0D31B5PTT&pd_rd_wg=Zp...
Get whatever block heater you want, then get an RV outlet enclosure, and install it anywhere that you want. Something like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Dumble-Electrical-Outdoor-Enclosed-Trailer/dp/B09B81D2Q3
Sounds like you are talking about the dust caps that are on the engine side of the headlight. I ended up going with something like https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079CGHQFJ to accommodate the fans.
Our 04 has a Bluetooth adapter we got off Amazon for both it and our 06 Navigator. Works good just find a Chanel with nothing in background for interference.
VicTsing (Upgraded Version) V5.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SK8YK8L?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You also need the little light sensor to look for daylight.
Ketofa Generic Auto Headlight Sensor Chrome Switch for Golf 5 / Golf MK6 / Tiguan / Jetta MK5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQF9B2B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H47Z8CBMXDBBY9GX8GSX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Luk 02-057 is the clutch if you have luk. Dmf is luk dmf 123.
Schaeffler LuK DMF123 Dual Mass Flywheel, OEM Dual Mass Flywheel, LuK Replacement Clutch Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7RZZV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EN98SM68CEQJJ5SEAWR2
Schaeffler LuK RepSet 02-057 Clutch Kit, OEM Clutch Replacement Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004J1CYO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AY3QHSPYT5M6V30PWM53
Or darkside kit also.
Just buy the correct one off Amazon. Yours looks similar to mine but not 100%
TEMO 529 Wheel Lock Nut Screw Removal Key Anti-Theft Lugnut Socket S3056 Compatible for Vw Audi Vag Volkswagen Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXLPZ16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NFMBHMG9YXZ93QP5C6H0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had the same thing happen to my 2012 a few months ago. Your latching device is most likely shot. Mine would not close at first and then a couple of days later it wouldn't open. You need to buy this inexpensive replacement part
Rear Hatch Trunk Door Lock... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9GC1DY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
To open your hatch you need to crawl into the trunk and remove the plastic piece from the back of the latch, stick your finger in and manually unlock it.
Putting the new part on is not super difficult, but you might want to look up a guide on YouTube on how to access it. I found it a little tricky having never messed with any kind of trim removal.
Hope this helps
Ran this last year
Liqui Moly 2002 Super Diesel Additive - 300 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PE95ZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_PGQ8YA0MT2YC1PKXAJ21
I like the howes and stanadyne because I can’t get them at tractor supply or auto parts store on sale for around 10 bucks.
I run 3-4 times what they recommend on howes and double what stanadyne recommended.
The optilube and EDT I run what they say because their 20+ a bottle.
I try to fill up around half and do this dose every time. Lowest I’ll let it get it is 1/3-1/4 tanks before I fill up. Hate letting it get this low because it makes me add more additive when I do half a tank fill ups I know it’s concentrated.
With diesel 5 a gal. Im tempted dump a whole 64oz of howes in there. Might be a waste though. Not sure. Just know our diesel is poor quality in the us.
I run all 3 of these currently and just started this a couple tanks.
Hot Shot's Secret Everyday Diesel Treatment 16 Ounce Squeeze Bottle (HSSEDT16ZS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E64I7SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_H7RQK6Q7RWQPEZQWJ4P4
I have found the fuel filler adaptor to be useful on a few occasions, especially at older stations in the middle of nowhere. This allows you to fill up at stations with the larger truck style nozzles.
Powerbuilt (647570 Oil/Fluid Extractor - 6.3 Quart Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OCEGONC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_A4DTNMTC2GAVBVBSESF6
That's the one I use. I've had it for 7 years and still works great.
I used a bike cleaner actually, it has degreaser in and I didn’t want to fork out for a motoring specific one, It’s called muck off if you’re interested, left it to sit for a few mins and scrubbed with a hard bristle brush, wheel cleaner works good, and a toothbrush for the tight bits. On all of the black plastics I used turtle wax black in a flash. (This stuff on Amazon) brings a nice sheen to black trim. Turtle Wax 52812 Black In A Flash... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01B4Y8K48?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Go to any auto parts store or a place like walmart and grab one of these https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BAF-BI-Terminal-Cleaning-Brush/dp/B0060YHP62/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=battery+terminal+cleaner&qid=1642949708&sr=8-3 to clean the terminals. You can also get a spray/grease to put on them that will stop it from happening again but I never do that.
Iv used my sunex 3/8th triple square on two different VW brake jobs with my Milwaukee mid torque and breaker bars and they haven’t broke yet.
Sunex 3640 3/8-Inch Drive Stubby Triple Square Impact Bit Socket Set, 8-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP8E5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1VT3X0PHXHWQB8GVDSHN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Capri Tools XZN Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set, Metric, 10-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007UQLR9U/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_3AH1GNQQD18ZYP34PQ0K I have this set and can’t complain.
32mm socket/oil filter wrench
VCDS, OBDeleven.. or this cheap VW/Audi scan tool. It’s VAG and OBD2. I check both VW fault and OBD, and it always points me to the correct issue.
This thing can even retract rear calipers(for models that need that during brake service), and recalibrate the throttle. Amazing little scanner.
Do you think something like this would have enough power to do so? NOCO Boost XL GB50 1500 Amp 12-Volt UltraSafe Portable Lithium Jump Starter Box, Car Battery Booster Pack, And Heavy Duty Jumper Cables For Up To 7-Liter Gasoline And 4-Liter Diesel Engines https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MVY7K43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_4335Y2YG3JR9X3J3GBAX
I have an excavator for personal use, I am not a contractor. So I fill with 5g gas cans. It sucks to use them on the horizontal fill hole.
Pro tip: Convert your new style "safety" cans to properly flowing old style cans with one of these kits. So worth it.
I don’t know off the top of my head but here they are from Amazon:
Raybestos 980792 Advanced Technology Disc Brake Rotor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007G7WHAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1RHTEFC1WNDRGB02JNSQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yup, still don't have carplay on your car. You're talking about VW's Media Device Interface (MDI). MDI basically interfaces with the media player functions of your phone/ipod and plays back music. Carplay on the other hand uses your phone to display apps on the cars screen. If you can pull up google maps on your phone and it shows it on the screen in your dash, then you have carplay.
"In total, therefore, diesel-powered light-duty vehicles emit around 5% to 30% less greenhouse gases per distance traveled than their gasoline equivalents." Source: http://www.eoearth.org/view/article/160424/
It looks like Biodiesel will increase the combustion temps and therefore the NOx emissions (Source)
Lazfit H7.
LASFIT H7 LED Bulbs w/Adapter-Retainer-Holder Special for Volkswagen-Passat 2012-2019 Dipped Beam, No Need Other Cable, Plug n Play, 6000K Cool White Light Improve Driving View (pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074M65X87/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NX0EZV7HKT02WNHHZRSV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here. TEMO 529 Wheel Lock Nut Screw Removal Key Anti-Theft Lugnut Socket S3056 Compatible for Vw Audi Vag Volkswagen Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NXLPZ16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N2H7M4YC331WNGF2ZBQH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Do yourself a big favour and buy a hand-operated oil extractor like this. You don’t have to get under the vehicle or open any drain plug. You just suck the oil out through the dipstick tube. I can do a full oil change in a few minutes without even getting my hands dirty.
Air Lift 80753 was the kit I got.
Amazon has them...pricey though. Think I paid around $90 a couple years ago.
Air Lift
Jack stand the rear of the car, pop out the rear springs, deflate bags, squeeze in, pop coils back in. Easy job. I ran the air line out the bottom of the control arms and into spare compartment. Left a tag end for easy access to the Schrader valve.
Stupid idea here. Maybe get a separate gas can just for DEF, fill the can, then full the car.
This one is more than you need for a sedan (VWs take around 3.8 gal), but it's what I'm referring to. Silver Transfer Diesel Exhaust Fluid Refillable DEF Jug 5 Gallon STS-0777 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NNQXW9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_838B7YCW90D1G1P20GVH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
simple repair you just need a t20? cant remember its easy to do if you have slight mechanical aptitude
here's a link for the amazon part it's $9 https://www.amazon.com/Keenso-Bracket-Aluminium-Manifold-03L129711E/dp/B07GXB6GM7/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2REQLRCS5U1H8&dchild=1&keywords=vw+tdi+parts&qid=1631211071&sr=8-4
Just looking over your post again... The egr may cause a bit of an issue. It's popular to remove them, but according to the tdi forums the egr allows the engine to retain part of its heat which is obviously important in Berta. As another guy said, I would try to get him down on price with that. Do some googling as I can't really remember all the details. I just know I've looked into removing it on both of my TDIs that I've owned over the past 10 years and decided against it due to that wanting to make sure the car stayed warm enough in -40C (lots of driving to Fort Mac and ed/calgary).
You will need this set. Besides Allan keys and various socket sizes, you'll find these around the car. For instance if you're going to change your wheel bearing or end links IIRC you have to remove some. Capri Tools XZN Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set, Metric, 10-Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007UQLR9U/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_HPXS1AADFWM7E7DJCXDD
I also just recently got one these. Much better than fucking around with a set of vice grips and having them slip off the hose clamp when you're messing with anything on the cooling system. Might be cheaper at princess auto. Qiilu Flexible Hose Clamp Pliers Locking Tool Car Fuel Oil Water Hose Pipe Repairing Tool for 1.8-5.4cm Diameter Clamps https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075V354J6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_2D0QQ9HRTQ7GRS09RVVG
I highly recommend you pick up a frost heater for the winters. It's an inline coolant heater that plugs into 110v. Gives you instant heat in -40.
If you're going to tackle the t belt there are some kits that come with specialty tools in that too. But the above tools should be good for casual maintenance.
Always had bad luck with these spray adhesives for headliners. This stuff is great for headliners. SCIGRIP Weld-On #1829 Adhesive, 1/4 Pint and Weld-On Applicator Bottle with Needle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9FGMKE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CEKQ1RXZ65TQ3V0B3Q62
Same thing happened with my 2012 Jetta, it blew lukewarm air when it’s cool and hot air in summer. I looked into everything and came across an AC Solenoid Valve issue. It was only $22 bucks and very easy to replace so I gave it a shot and it worked. Make sure it’s compatible by looking at your compressor tag and match it to the Amazon link.
If your symptoms are similar please try this before bringing it somewhere. I drove without AC for 1.5 years because I thought it would be something super expensive. Turns out these things go out fairly frequently.
It's not the oil. You need to get a scanner, a cheap one on amazon will do:
Save yourself the frustration. It will just give you a code that tells you what's wrong.
Or dremmel the head to fit a flat head bit on a impact .
I wanna say it was $40-$60. Tips where from Amazon
Magnaflow 35121 Stainless Steel Round-Angle Cut Double Wall Exhaust Tip
You’ve got projectors, just get some LED to throw in there after a lens cleanup. I’ve got these in my 4Runner, should fit your Treg, highly recommend.
Aukee H7 LED Headlight Bulb 90W 16000lm 6000K Cool White Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BFZ9P3D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_wz.VFb94X3B9T
If this is a frost heater kit, it has a NOCO GCP1 as an optional plug. They can be purchased via Amazon.
Edit: Link: NOCO GCP1 15 Amp 125V AC Port Plug Power Inlet with 16-Inch Integrated Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ANV81S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N00LFb1PKYRW3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I just picked up these for my '13 JSW. A bit pricier than some of the other universal models offered on Amazon but at ~$150 they're still half the price of the OEM or comprable Thule/Yakima bars. I like the fact that they use a metal strap to wrap around the raised roof rails rather than just a clamp mechanism like some of the other universal brands. I've had them on the car for a week now and so far so good. There is a pretty audible whistle above 40 mph but I can't tell if that's from the crossbars themselves or the bike racks I have mounted.
Not sure where your local is but I sourced mine through amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS
It's pricey when compared to some of the other units out there. But I like the features and the fact that I can hook it up to everything I own and it'll read codes. I can even send myself a report with code information to my email.
This is what I got on Amazon a few weeks ago. I haven't used them with the "J" shaped racks yet, I only put one 15' canoe on top, face down, but I had no problems, and they are very affordable compared to alternatives. $50 My review hasn't showed up there yet, but I'm very pleased with them.
CargoLoc 2-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GA2HKAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q4WwDbEH8GY3C
Here is the link!
VLand The music in the video is my favourite part.
If you’re using this video to install the vland tails, know that you don’t have to go to the lengths of removing the hatch light or upper- quarter panels all the way off. You can very easily pry the trim all around he hatch opening, just enough to fish the sequential twindicator cable through with a stiff wire such as a coat hanger or a grabber tool.
Also if you don’t already own one, pick up a trim removal kit on amazon from $7-$50 depending on brand and quality I did mine with an $16 one, super handy.
Good luck!
I think the only way is through obd2 diagnostic stuff https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en_US
I've been thinking of getting a bluetooth adapter and using that app just to monitor for regens.
Just to add another option, I did a Fumoto oil drain valve on my TDI. You just put a 3/8” (I think) hose on the end, open the valve and drain it right into your container (I use an old 5L oil container), then close the valve. The car still needs to go up, but not far as there isn’t any torquing or replacing plugs or anything.
FYI I did need the banjo bolt style on my 2013 because of the oil pan style, the normal one wouldn’t thread on because the valve hit the pan.
F106SX: New Generation Fumoto Valve with 14mm-1.5 Thread Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HP5V092/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zsRrFb4BB7356
I just checked and my dealer actually quoted me $1100 for the cooling fan. Around $750 for parts, $350 for labor.
Both parts of that price are insane and I’m sure you could find a professional who could do it cheaper. But DIY is a good option if you can rent the lift.
You “only” need a T25 Torx and T30 Torx bit, but these can’t just be long handle screwdrivers. I recommend a right-angle bit driver ratchet like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/
Note, I do not own or endorse that exact one, you just need something that will let you sneak in sideways to get at screws because there is not enough space in front of the screws to approach with a “normal screwdriver” shaped tool.
One more thing— you need a tiny flathead or some sort of pick/pry tool to remove the electrical connection. It is secured with an obvious red clip on one side then there is a “bump” on another side of the connector which hides another plastic clip thing that needs to be pried out.
A few different lengths of extensions for the screwdriver bits will also make your life easier, so the ratchet can go on the near side or the far side of stuff that’s in your way.
It took me about 2.5 hours to DIY it and that included fumbling with jacks and stands, looking for the tools I needed because I didn’t plan ahead, fumbling with the wrong tools because I didn’t even have the right ones, etc.
I imagine it would take about 1 hour with the right tools and some experience which is why I think the $350 labor estimate is bullshit. I’m sure an independent shop would do it under $200 labor (unless you’re in a very expensive area) but this mostly just covers rent, equipment, labor, etc, so they want to make a profit off the parts and you will still pay a lot there compared to DIY.
Get an ODBII reader, you can check the ODBII status yourself. I use this with torque (so $10 total), and it's useful for other stuff too.
I have used this obd2 and a free app on my phone for years and its fine for simple stuff
For anything more advanced I use vcds
I had the same problem a couple months ago in my 15 Jetta tdi. Turned out it was the abs wheel speed sensor, with the code reader you should be able to determine which sensor it is, I got this off amazon and watched a YouTube video on changing it and fixed it with 20$ and 15 mins. Yours could be the same problem definitely worth checking into
AUTEX 2pc ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Front Left & Right 7H0927804 695481 WHT003856 Compatible with A3 & TT/Carrera GT/Leon/Replacement for Beetle & CC & Golf & Jetta & Passat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0772SB1XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Yx1oFb9YEJC9J
Don't know the weight of the flywheel. See details of the kit I bought at the Amazon link below - "Item weight" of the whole kit is 36.8 lbs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GX43VDK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_sSKywLkPKiIl4
I looked at the Black Forest industries knobs, but wasn’t ready to spend $100, so I picked up one of these from Amazon for under $20, and got a threaded shift know adapter for $10 and am really happy with it! The knob is solid metal and has a nice finish on it. Let me know if you have any questions or want pictures.
Not sure what priorities you have, but my #1 need is visibility. So many dash cams hang down into your eye line. This model (or ones with the same form factor) are my favorite:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X528FNE
I put mine right behind the rear view mirror. I can’t see it, passengers can’t see it, and no one else notices it when the car is parked. You can hang it a little lower if you want to see the screen, but I’m happy with it invisibility recording.
And for what it’s worth, I’ve always wired mine to a source that turns on and off with the car. It records for a few minutes after it looses power, and I’ve never wanted more than that.
I'm working on a solution to the very same problem. I live in an apartment with NO where to plug the frost heater in. My best idea currently is to find a large, electric, rechargeable battery with enough power to actually start it with, and find a way that I can put it in the car before bed, figure out how to run the power cable into the car, and just leave it plugged in until morning on the extra cold nights when I work early. Then recharging this battery as needed inside my place. I'm open to advice if anyone has any.
Here is an example of the device I'm looking into, feedback will be appreciated:
Perhaps something a little cheaper with less bells and whistles, but those all seem potentially useful. Please let me know what you guys think I should do, and how to go about doing it. Seems important to make sure it can supply enough power, but I'm not great with electricity so maybe some help there as well :)
Do you have a garage or any place warm you can put it? If your fuel Gel'd up your gonna have to wait for it to melt.. Dont try to keep starting it, your HPFP is probably dry and making that whining noise.
You could pop the top off your fuel filter and see if its dry or full of wax to confirm Geling issue.. if thats it, get your self a bottle of this and put it in once it warms up enough to start: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Service-1080-06-Supplement-Anti-Freezer/dp/B001JT5MGI
I replaced my cam shaft and lifters on my 05.5 brm at ~135k miles (now have 220k+) pretty much using this link and a service manual, if you're at all mechanical savvy. All-in I was about $800 in parts and accessories if I remember correctly. Definitely seek out a diesel guru from tdi club for a second opinion. I had a dealer tell me my car was totaled at the time.
To do the cam shaft you'll need some special tools. If you're looking at doing the work yourself, send me a PM. I have the tools and may be able to send them to you.
This is what you will find: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0QYUNuf2v8
I have a can of rubberized undercoating (link) that I might spray in there at some point. It already has a very thick (1-4mm) paint on undercoating in there from the factory though.
Best place to buy AD-BLUE/DEF online by the jug https://www.amazon.com/Sinopec-F-DEF32-CJ2AVE-Diesel-Exhaust-Fluid/dp/B0723B3G6S/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1496666113&sr=8-26&keywords=def+2.5+gallon
Nice! They look great! I actually have the same car you do but in silver... i'm also considering grabbing some news wheels and perhaps the diesel geek short shifter with the settlement check.
You should consider grabbing these window visors, relatively inexpensive and work / look great!
I've been wondering the same thing. I guess I could have a pretty large wardrobe of VW branded clothing this winter. I was hoping I could find one of these on the website but haven't had any luck.
Get a dash cam that can be left turned on continuously. It has to have a capacitor inside and not a battery. That's the only way it can survive summer heat.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SK8B47W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LBxRxb4A4CTRK
I had to do this to my wife's 2000 Jetta a few years ago. A bit of a PITA job, but not difficult and like you said, about $50 for the assembly. I had to buy wiper removal tool as well. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4676-Windshield-Wiper-Puller/dp/B000L7JQE8
Regular, at least in America, D2 diesel fuel starts to gel up around 0 degrees F, we found out the hard way a couple winters ago. I've been told in Canada they change the formula for you. Don't know where you live so ymmv. In the winter now I add this to the fuel tank at every fillup, no problems even to like -15F now. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G4L9HCG
I grabbed this fog light kit from ebay and this euro switch from amazon. The setup works great.
HIDs do require more power, so typically a lot of aftermarkets come with a small box for each light that you'll mount to the frame. This is to regulate the power and prevent any issues with the battery. Familiarize yourself with what white you want and make sure you order that temp level. I believe you're wanting something close to 7000K. I'm on my phone so I have a hard time linking things now. If you want I'll update later with some different options. Like someone else posted, they can be $500-$1000. But once you have the kit you can just buy the bulbs which is much cheaper.
I didn't want to invest into an HID kit personally so just found a bulb that was the color temp I wanted. Won't be quite as bright as you want, but got the job done for $45.
Here Here is a version of what I got. It is around 5000K and is fairly bright white. I think this would make you happest. You could go with these But they aren't has white for more money in my opinion. You can youtube search videos of people showing off these bulbs in their cars and make a choice from there if it helps.
But without dropping money into a proper HID kit, I think these will be your best.
In theory, one of these green caps should fit a Mk4. I decided that I didn't need to order one, since I'm the only person that ever fills my tank.
Need a scan tool? get torque pro and a cheap bluetooth dongle. vgate works well for me, but this combo is indispensable for me, use it on multiple cars and can make your own cluster right on your phone if you want to monitor stuff, you can set up alarms and everything.
I use a bluetooth ODB2 module and Torque on my phone. Not only does my dash speedometer report as much as 5mph slower than GPS measures, but when Torque reads the speedometer value directly from the CANbus it gets the same value my GPS shows.
The car knows how fast it's going, but the damn dash display fudges the number so I think I'm driving faster than I really am!