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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/BmwTech:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/BmwTech:
IFTTT
FileDropper.com
VirtualBox
Sendvid
OfferUp
Cults.
The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/BmwTech:
Carly for BMW Pro
Sync for reddit
Torque Pro (OBD 2 & Car)
The most popular reviews in /r/BmwTech:
I can do you one better.
This: Bluetooth Audio Interface for BMW E46 E39 E38 X5 E53 X3 E83 Z4 E85 CD changer connection 3 + 6 https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0773MX7BG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_N3A71RE3QZFTKPTAGKSE
This is what I have installed in my E46. It plugs into the amp where you would usually plug in the CD player line in. That then enables you to connect to the module over Bluetooth and that's it, you now have a Bluetooth enabled stereo. The steering controls work as expected too. You do of course lose the use of your CD player but I'm sure that isn't a big deal.
I can explain more about the install if needs be, just ask.
If the key moves very freely I'm sure it's a component in the lock cylinder that has broken. It's pretty common on e46s. Here a link to a repair kit.
Front Door Lock Cylinder Barrel Repair Kit for BMW E83 X3 2004-2010 E53 X5 2000-2006 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ237B3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8JXP06R3CCSRST2ED8PA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would recommend a power supply for that task. You could also get creative with an extra battery and battery charger or something else. My experience is that even with headlights and blower motor off, the car will still be drawing 20-30 amps. A large battery charger may be able to supply this, but all documentation I have seen from GM, BMW, etc on this type of work explicitly says don't use a battery charge, use a boost pack or a power supply.
This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-INC100-Battery-Charger-Supply/dp/B0756NVGHV
You can use the headlight sealant if yours is weak/leaking. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084VM3Q2L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_HZXMSZFYR96S6ASD8DWX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't know if this is how your headlight is sealed now, but many are.
You could also check that all the bulbs are sealed and seated properly
i've done mine with a positive pressure bleeder and it worked.
If I were you I'd start by unplugging the battery again, both terminals. Clean the posts again, keep it unplugged for like 15 minutes, then reconnect the battery, making sure the connections are secure and properly tightened down. I think the biggest thing is to make sure the terminals are really connected well. Also, it's possible but unlikely that your battery might be going bad, so might want to get that checked because a weak battery can cause all sorts of weird issues like you're having.
If that still does not work, I think autozone or advanced auto will use a code scanner on your car for free, but it's been a while since I've done that so I'm not entirely sure. If you're still wanting to get your own code reader though, if you have an android I recommend an app called "torque" (there are suggested code readers on that page and can be bought from amazon for pretty cheap).
Also [e-torx socket set]
Get a grabber tool. Worthless and frustrating most of the time, but when it saves your ass, you recognize the value of them. I once used one to pull out a 9/16" box wrench that I dropped into the transmission housing of a bulldozer. It only took 4 hours, but I did it!
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-70396-Lighted-Mechanical/dp/B00275F5I8/
I’d recommend getting an OBD scanner with BimmerLink and Bimmercode on ur phone. It’s like $50 and if you get warning you’ll be able to read the code and tell the mechanic what is up. Totally worth it.
OBDLink CX Bimmercode Bluetooth 5.1 BLE OBD2 Adapter for BMW/Mini, Works with iPhone/iOS & Android, Car Coding, OBD II Diagnostic Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NFLL3NT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MB0W6K9BSSHWXQZA4JNY
If money is no object, the dealer is always the best option. They'll install and register it.
If you do it yourself you'll need an ODBII code reader that has the ability to register the battery. I've got a Foxwell NT510 Elite sitting in my shopping cart that would do the trick and seems to be one of the favorites among the guys over at bimmerfest.com.
My method for stripped Allen bolts has always been to take a slightly larger Torx socket and hammer the fuck out of it until it fits.
Make sure it's a torx socket that you aren't attached to because you'll probably damage it.
I've also had great luck with bolt extractors like this, however, I'm not sure if you will have room for them. Typically manufacturers use Allen/Torx bolts when there is not a lot of clearance to get a socket on the perimeter of the fastener.
These also work okay if the bolt is only slightly stripped. It sounds like you are past that point though- https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-Piece-Socket-Damaged-Fasteners/dp/B07N8G6NLK/
Vgate iCar Pro Bluetooth 4.0 (BLE) OBD2 Fault Code Reader OBDII Code Scanner Car Check Engine Light for iOS/Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XGB4873/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_07A9F7XH9MFBKMC7JWE6
That and the app will work on almost all bimmers.
Scroll to the bottom for compatibility. Check out the screens, it gives you a general idea of the info it exposes that your car is hiding.
Not oil man, it s an additive that you poor into your engine oil to fix the stuck lifters that cause the noise, here s a link https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20004-Hydraulic-Additive/dp/B0096Y6XPC
The part to keep the rpm at 3k after for like 4 5 min, repeat 2 or 3 times is crucial and also a bmw approved method. I read days everything on the internet before I tried it
I was looking at a d can cable today and videos, I agree it does seem complicated but there seems to be lots of videos on YouTube about them. I was looking at this one specifically
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07GXJYZ3D/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_v1d2Fb176FTFJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
He’s probably right..replace the IVM. I had the same issues and that cured my start problems. I didn’t have any other symptoms other than an occasional and then more frequent non-start. It’s only $100 and much cheaper than replacing the starter. You’ll have to replace the IVM anyway eventually. Amazingly, bad starters don’t happen that often on these motors but that could be because the cars are dumped well before they reach high mileage. Got my IVM from Amazon a year ago and still doing great
BMW e53 e60 e63 e65 Integrated Supply Module 'IVM' electronic control unit e66 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AG39RRS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_YRG9Bb397XTYM
Do you hear the static noise even when the head unit is off? I had the same problem in my e82. I tried bypassing all the connected modules (besides the head unit) in the MOST network with the loop adapter to find the culprit, but no avail. The noise finally went away when I replaced the head unit with an aftermarket one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087RFSW64/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So, it could be your head unit that's going bad.
Tinting with the good stuff (ceramic tint) will help dramatically. Get the windshield done too. If you're worried about legalities of tinting the windshield, they make clear uv rejection film. It's pricey to do all that but it will protect your car in parking lots and in your driveway if you don't have a garage. Also get a sunshade. As far as care, i like chemical guys leather conditioner. It is reasonably priced and works well. They also have leather serum which is a little better for protection but more expensive. Im sure there are a lot of options out there, i just like chemical guys for leather care.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FALW0UW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t0-BFb533DQ9V
You could use your hands if you don’t mind that. Best this to use is a plastic trim tool. They’re cheap on amazon. I’ll like the one I have
XBRN Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit,5 Pcs Car Panel Door Window Tools Kit,Auto Clip Fastener Remover Pry Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R44VJHN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tXEkFb754V60Y
Didn't realize it was that simple... Thank you! Do you have a suggestion for an Android app?
I see Carly for BMW, but that's a bit pricey.
And a cheaper alternative: Torque Pro.
These are the codes I got, plus a bunch of misfire cylinder codes.
P0014
P0017
P0019
P0024
P0300
I did replace the cam position sensors on both sides with 2 of these from Amazon. One was cracked and they both had 140,000 miles so I felt it was time for new sensors. I didn't double check the coil wire connections but I can do that tomorrow. https://www.amazon.com/EPSIRMP-11377527017-Variable-Eccentric-Compatible/dp/B08P5M781Y/ref=cm\_cr\_arp\_d\_product\_top?ie=UTF8#customerReviews
When I was down to only the plastic Valet key for my e36, I just glued it into the ignition and added a push to start button.
If that's your price range, you're better off getting him ELM327-based Bluetooth adapter and Bimmerlink than that. I've had good success with this one on my M4 https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-OBDCheck-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports/dp/B073XKQQQW
The Foxwell NT510 is the one you really want (replicates a lot but not all functions of dealer software) but it's more like $150
27mm 12pt
Annoyingly, since you often have to use the torx in the center to prevent the shaft from spinning, it ends up being necessary to have both a socket and a wrench in this size.
A flexible head combo wrench is very helpful here
Something like this. I have this set and it’s great. Worked for my iPhone screws not sure if there’s one big enough for your application but they’ll be one similar
BMW dealership, amazon, any BMW parts store.
Part number 82141467704
https://www.amazon.com/BMW-82141467704-Grey-Antifreeze-Coolant/dp/B004QXRA00
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-coolant-antifreeze-82141467704
Yes, crimp connections are better than soldered connections in this case, but you'll need to buy butt splices, a crimper, and a heat gun.
https://www.amazon.com/Haisstronica-Connectors-Gauge-Insulated-Waterproof-Electrical/dp/B07L29DLGN/
https://www.amazon.com/Haisstronica-Crimping-Connectors-Ratchet-Crimper-Racheting-Tools-Wire/dp/B0873Y19T7/
If you're buying a new connector and terminals, you'll need to use an open barrel crimper instead.
You can buy a battery / charging tester if you need to know yourself.
You can spend more. Like a lot more, but don't settle for anything cheaper or less than this.
Which happens to be on Black Friday sale today.
Get one of these and do it yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24937-Pneumatic-Manual-Extractor/dp/B07N7YV5GN
I have one that works with a compressor and have been changing the oil with it for close to 20 years. Since the oil filter is at the top of the engine there is no need to jack up the car and crawl underneath. Change the oil every 5k or one year, whichever comes first.
after years of taking these off and on E series' with a drift and a hammer, I finally bought this when i replaced the pump, sensor, siphon tube, in my E39 M5. At the time it cost $39, so not a big deal. but now it just sits there... Pristine in my toolbox; taunting me.
I have one issue with this model had i known. this is very difficult to work with with the hoses, wires connected. The ones that are hourglass shaped with the cutouts seem like they would be better. a pair of big ass pliers with special jaws would be awesome.
It's an enormous pain, yeah. Takes a day or two to do in your garage and you do have to put the car on tall jack stands (tranny jack is optional). Make sure to get a 36" extension like this in order to get to those top bolts. While you're in there, replace your clutch fork, throwout bearing, and plastic pivot pin. If you're over 200,000 miles, you might as well replace your clutch and flywheel too.
The detents are behind those blue-green covers. They're arranged differently on the E90's manual transmission, but it's the same idea: pull the snap ring, pull the blue-green cover, pull the detent pin, replace the detent pin, replace the detent bushing (worst part), replace the blue-green cover, replace the snap ring. Repeat for all seized detent pins (you probably only have one).
Here's an explanation of how your tranny works:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/05%20E85%20Driveline.pdf
Drill a hole in the seal using a 1/16" drill bit (with a depth stop so that you don't damage anything), buy some long-taper #6 wood screws at home depot, buy a slide hammer kit like this and use the wood screw with the screw adapter to pull the seal.
Make sure to drill at the bottom of the seal, not the top or the side. That way the shavings will be easier to remove. A torch will only add debris to the sealing surface.
Use an impact wrench. Thor's hammer if you have to.
Those bolts are normally tough to loosen with a breaker bar since you're lying on your back under the car, a bit of rust on the outside makes it that much harder.
You need to clean out the old thread sealant before installing new bolts. Keep the pan on there with a few bolts just so it stays in place for now, but order a new set of bolts and some thread chasers like these to finish the job.
You can't do this with a 100 ft-lb wrench, you'll need something like this for the initial torque.
Yes, that's too far in. There's going to be a large gap between the dust seal (the thing that sticks out from the face of the seal) and the axle, which will let dirt in and accelerate wear on the axle seal.
Pull the seal and install a new one. If you want to make sure it goes in straight and at the proper depth, use a 55mm socket to drive it in (assuming it's a 44x69 seal).
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-643242-4-Inch-Drive-Socket/dp/B004QO9KYS/
Those are your daytime running lights and they're standard H8 bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/H8/dp/B003YMM7AC/
Open up your hood, twist the cap loose, twist the bulb loose, and replace it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooZ-7wWPKN8
ez pz unless you have to reset your short fault through ISTA
Go to autozone, walmart, or any other store like that and buy an airbag and reach tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Marring-Grabber-Carrying-Removal/dp/B09L44MJTQ/
It takes less than 5 minutes to open the door with one, and you won't damage it.
Buy this from amazon or anyone else who carries it. The dealer will have some too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006TM0K5S
Sand the area smooth and use an airbrush to apply it. Or you can use a detail paintbrush and sand and polish the paint smooth afterwards.
If it's more paint than the touch-up kit covers, call your local PPG supplier and give them the paint code, they should sell you a moisture-cure urethane with metallic flake for about $80/quart. Any polyurethane clearcoat on top of that will do, but here's a good one.
Make sure to apply enough coats to match the original thickness, recoating when the paint loses most of its tack and won't transfer to a gloved hand.
You could also buy a used fender for $150 if you don't want to paint it.
If you're north of the CT/MA border, then yeah you'll definitely want a quality 0w-xx.
BMW used castrol oil as the factory fill for a while, and their european A3/B4 formulae are LL-01 certified. They sell a bunch of different viscosities, but their 0w-40 has the highest synthetic (sometimes called polyalphaolefin, PAO, decene homopolymer, etc) content of the bunch so it'll last longer, have better high temperature performance, and give you fewer deposits. Also, the 40 will give you better rod-bearing life than the 30, which is important because the rod bearings on your engine suck ass. If you can stomach a 1mpg decrease in fuel efficiency, go for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-03101-0W-40-Advanced-Synthetic/dp/B00JGQLZSU/
Other good (but more expensive) options include Liqui-Moly Synthoil energy and Ravenol's LL-01 0w-40. Those are both more expensive (and Ravenol takes a while to ship to the US), but they have higher PAO contents so they're going to give you better performance. Also, you can technically return used oil to FCPEuro if you live near Milford or want to pay for return shipping.
You get the coolant from the BMW dealership exclusively.
I just found an Amazon listing for the bolt that says m18x1.5x95. Not sure on accuracy, but m18 sounds about right for handling 400nm.
https://www.amazon.ca/BMW-Engine-Crankshaft-1720633-11211720633/dp/B07H6PQ4RJ
You can typically buy sockets and pins and then crimp them yourself with an open-barrel crimper.
For example, this connector is used in dozens of places all over my car: 61-13-8-365-340
I bought pins 61-13-1-393-704 and grommets 61-13-8-366-245 and an open-barrel crimper and crimped those onto the ends of the wires.
If your wires are long enough, that's usually the best option since it'll bring the connection back to its original quality. I'm not sure what the pin types are on that particular latch, but you can usually look through parts diagrams and find them.
If you can't find the pins, you can just splice the wires together with butt splices
Soldering will travel under the jacket and stiffen the wires, and may eventually break after a bunch of flexing. The flux may also cause corrosion if improperly cleaned. Crimped connections are much more durable, which is why your wiring harness uses them instead of solder.
"gearbox support"
"transmission bearing"
"tunnel heat insulator"
You'll need to replace the missing bolts on the gearbox support, and you should double check your muffler bearing to make sure it's not damaged or missing.
Also, this is the lube you need to install the new transmission bearing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAH5820/
Don't use dish soap or motor oil.
It's a little plastic spudger you wedge between pieces and gently work to provide enough force to separate the friction-lock pieces. Most BMWs are plastic. Depending upon age be prepared for some plastic to break. Cross-reference with RealOEM if you need to replace those broken parts.
Start by rehydrating all the rubber seals with gummi-pflege, it's likely they've never been touched since new.
​
I purchased these last time:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NS3T3VX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As long as you always keep some BMW coolant and distilled water in the trunk, you can replace it when the low coolant light comes on. I would just replace it because it's a cheap and easy thing to fix, and will save you the headache of topping up your coolant all the time.
If you don't have any tools right now, all you'll need to replace the radiator is a torx key set.
To replace the tension struts, you'll need a ball joint separator, this tool to press out the ball joint, a T40 torx key, two 18mm wrenches, a 24mm wrench, a jack, and a jack stand.
You might want to check your rear suspension for wear if you see uneven wear on your rear tires. Worn shocks will cause cupping, while worn control arms will cause one side of the tire to wear faster than the other, similar to excessive toe or camber. If your rear suspension isn't fucked, you'll need an alignment.
It might not have one. Certainly not on the rail as that's high pressure. I use a 4mm "T" to check low pressures.
I have a tool set like this one: https://www.amazon.com/BETOOLL-Injection-Pressure-Tester-Gauge/dp/B085VNTHR5
You're going to want to use a compression union then. The hard part is probably going to be getting the line disconnected from enough mounting points that you get enough clearance that you can spin a small tubing cutter around it to cut the line. I don't recommend using anything else like a hacksaw blade to cut the line because you'll end up contaminating your line with metal shavings.
They can be had for less now. There are Chinese knock-offs.
The system in your car (CCC) doesn’t support A2DP Bluetooth streaming audio. I had a ‘07 530xi with the same system and used one of theseas a workaround. Basically, your phone connects to this instead and it has a 3.5mm output that you’d plug in to the AUX port and select that as your source on the stereo. While it does have its own microphone and supports hands free calling, I never really used it for that so I can’t comment on its performance in that area. Using your phone not hands free is an option with it, provided that’s legal where you are.
Get one of these, and a DVM. For the batt to drain that quickly, you’re probably looking at a 2-4 amp draw. Ex- trunk lighting not turning off when the lid is closed, a module not going to sleep, a jammed switch power seat adjustment or lumbar, a stereo amplifier not switching once the car is asleep. Stuff like that. Rule out the obvious ones/things you can see first. Then it’s on to fuse pulling
It is this one:
Many people have and like it. However, I am guessing it is due to Bimmercode customizations, rather than diagnosing an issue.
Sorry to the OP, but if helps anyone else, the OEM pump is made by Pierburg and you can buy them direct on Amazon Prime/
That's the main thing, you do NOT want to buy a non-OEM part for. There's lots of cheap China part that are just fine, but NOT the water pump.
been using this since 2016
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R3ABHXY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
still works great for music. calls come through normal, all steering controls work. looks like they no longer have this exact one so maybe an updated model you can find
Next time use this every 4 to six months and you wont have this issue
​
It had already been done by the time I bought the car. I've seen the kits on web sites. This one works if you do not have the Super Premium Logic 7 sound system:
That kit has you rebuilding the connector body, which is pretty involved. You should use a special tool -- but could use a pick or a thin file -- to eject each pin from your existing connector. Then crimp on new connector pins, then insert those in the right spot in the new connector body.
It's not too hard to find pre-wired pigtails, which you can solder on or crimp on to your wiring harness. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/ALLMOST-Harness-Pigtail-Compatible-TAILLIGHT/dp/B08JCG222J
OBDLink LX OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for Android and Windows https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_CHZ2R2VWDPAJ05R07XSD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I have. It works with BimmerLink and BinmerCode. There is another version that supports iOS as well. Comes with a free basic reader app.
The part names seem to suggest it is part 11. Is this what you are looking for? TOPAZ 17117530984 Radiator Bracket Rubber Mount for BMW E60 E61 525i 530i 545i 645Ci https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRD25ZS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_JWM3X9X2SA8R3GRXC7CE
You have to do it when the light is on.
If the light was on and they said nothing came up then they're flat out wrong. The light doesn't just come on out of nowhere.
Since you're a BMW owner now, you might as well buy the dongle to read the codes on your phone so you can do it yourself. (This is the one I own.) A bonus is that you can also use the Bimmercode app to do coding changes, but that's an advanced topic.
Your problem is the reason I have this in my toolbox.
Get some 3M foam squares and stick them to the plastic in between the glass and the cover.
120 Pack Square Double Sided Foam Tape Strong Pad Mounting Adhesive Tape (White) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B083LMJVX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V180KPSQVJ87K80XTECS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
With magic eraser you're paying for the name, you can buy the same product on Amazon heaps cheaper
It's just Melamine and some other compounds.
(Not an affiliate link) I have bought these to get stuff off the walls (I have an artistic 5 year old)
50 Pack Large Magic Sponge Eraser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T91575R/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ZE8NDY08TPAXM82NTB8B
Heres two good resources and some decent advice:
Honestly all you need is a buffer and a good compound, go mid speed with the buffer pad and not too much pressure, do 3-5 minutes and give it 2 minutes of cool down to avoid cracking, toothpaste and baking soda would work if you don't have compound. Without the buffer it will take muscle and lots of energy.
For the buffing make sure to tape up the edges of the body to avoid scuffing the paint, you can use the buffing pad on a drill or a pipe cutter if you have those type of tools. Where I'm from we have a store called harbor freight, idk your location but they basically sell cheap ass tools which can be one use tools depending on your luck lol you should be able to get a drill or a cutter for like $30
It takes time but it can make these babies look brand new, take your time and don't rush it, you can set an afternoon apart and take your time doing it. I'll post a link to a good video.
/////
How to do it super cheap: (not my video) https://youtu.be/_FiFIqB1ay8
/////
A cheap ass buffer on amazon: (not an affiliate link)
WEN 10PMC 10-Inch Waxer/Polisher in Case with Extra Bonnets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092K1F2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_V8HQG2TB6GRB5BFGK8RS
I've done this before but not to my x5, ill be doing this soon since I got some RGB angel eye lights and I want them to be prestine prior to installation.
Yeah oil leaks u gotta fix those… anyways here buy this:
This billet aluminum piece replaces the plastic junk that cracked for u. I had this same thing happen to me on my ‘10 335i n54 and used this. Took maybe ten minutes to install and some new coolant.
Just got this in the mail. Things are going to be so much easier!
I'm not sure how aggressive this is or how much damage it can address but it does exist. I've used tools like this to reduce the damage done to a windshield by a metal wiper blade beam
https://www.amazon.com/GP21005-Windshield-Polishing-Removes-Surface/dp/B001RAQGXC
This is what I got:
OBDLink LX OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for Android and Windows https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_TZ56K6GZSV99V65VWDSZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There is an iOS supported version too. I got it with discounted price. It works great with BimmerCode.
Get a battery tester off Amazon and test the battery as a first step. The symptom of the hazard lights by itself is odd and could be a faulty switch or something with one of the modules connected to the CANBUS (pretty much every module is). The PDC symptom is odd though. BMWs do strange things when the battery charge is low, so I’d start with a battery test.
Something like this:
TOPDON AB101 Car Battery Tester 12V Car Battery Load Tester on Cranking Charging Systems, 100-2000 CCA Automotive Alternator Analyzer for Cars/SUVs/Light Trucks with Flooded AGM Gel Types https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DDDDSK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9ZXKSGNMCGB7X2ZFKJMJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Often if a car, any car, has head gasket issues it will push coolant (coolant/oil mix actually) out the reservoir when the car is turned off. You can also buy testers to check the coolant for oil. I've always done it with a warm car.
Block Tester BT-500 Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ABC76B5TGD7K94E9GV1E
There a small bulbs behind each section of the cluster. You can remove it with a #10 torx driver (I think) and pull it out to inspect. They are small white plastic things that screw in/out on the rear of the cluster. Hopefully it's just those that need replacing. When a cluster has a ribbon cable problem, the result is more along the lines of incomplete characters that look like gibberish. If you aren't getting that then I'd suspect bulbs.
more than likely that is just a polarizing filter. if you can separate the face from the display it could be replaced. note that you will need to figure out the correct orientation for the filter before cutting and placing.
Yes! Auxbeam H7 Light LED Bulbs, 70W 7000lm Per Pair, Error Free CanBus Ready, 6000K Cool White H7 Led Conversion Kit Halogen Fog Replacement- F-16 Plus Series (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VJXWX4J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_86JYPYR2ANYRQGJPZFR1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can use this motor oil saver. Liqui Moly 2020 Motor Oil Saver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRDD1J0
Just add this into your engine oil. 1 can treats 4L oil. I use 2 cans for 6.5L oil for my N52.
First off, thank you for the help!
So I ran the compression and leak down test (leak down was a first time for me, so hopefully I did it right, I used this tester: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030EVL60 ). I only ran the tests on #1 and #2 as I am a little short on time right now and the rest requires extra disassembly.
Max Compression Cyl#1 190psi Cyl#2 195psi
Leak Down @ TDC:
Cyl#1 @75psi->73psi...3% leak down @90 psi->87psi...3% leak down (I ran this cylinder 3 times and got the above #s twice, Because my first go I was getting 7% and 11% so I probably missed TDC and wanted to confirm after comparing to #2s results)
Cyl#2 75psi->72psi...4% leak down @90 psi->86psi...4% leak down
So this all seems normal to me and consistent, but I would be curious what you think of you have the time.
Thank you for taking the time to help me this far!
First off, Thanks for all your help!
So I ran the compression and leak down test (leak down was a first time for me, so hopefully I did it right, I used this tester: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030EVL60 ). I only ran the tests on #1 and #2 as I am a little short on time right now and the rest requires extra disassembly.
Max Compression
1 190psi
2 195psi
Leak Down @ TDC:
1 @75psi->73psi...3% leak down
@90 psi->87psi...3% leak down (I ran this cylinder 3 times and got the above #s twice, Because my first go I was getting 7% and 11% so I probably missed TDC and wanted to confirm after comparing to #2s results)
2 75psi->72psi...4% leak down
@90 psi->86psi...4% leak down
So this all seems normal to me and consistent, but I would be curious what you think of you have the time.
Unfortunately I dont have the time right now to take the whole intake out to inspect into the cylinder while hot.
I do have a lighted borescope camera, do you think I would be able to see the pop leakage on that via the spark plug hole?
Thank you for sharing your wisdom!
I used the $20 kit on Amazon and it did perfectly.
FAERSI Fuel Injection Pressure Test Kit - Universal Fuel Oil Engine Diagnostic Gauge Tester Set with Fittings, Instructions, Storage Case for Car Motorcycle Truck RV SUV & ATV, 0-100 PSI / 0-7 Bar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VB7H98K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3KGFWD2K1JMH9E2DKJR4
I know this isn't what you're asking for, but this module works really and is cheap.
Besign BK01 Bluetooth 4.1 Car Kit Handsfree Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Receiver with Dual Port USB Car Charger and Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car with 3.5mm AUX Input Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_NPW4KF6E2DH7R2FZ9EVF
If you buy one of these and an obd2 scanner app, you might spend like $40-60 total, and then you can check the codes yourself at any time.
Posting the error message with the codes you find using your obd2 scanner setup will help people explain what is wrong with the car.
Wait, it might be worth looking at these, they aren't specific so idk if they fit https://www.amazon.com/Larsen-HP34-Antenna-Plastic-Hole/dp/B0049D7GBU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=antenna+hole+plug&qid=1643133734&sr=8-4
Had a snapped stud with less than that showing (about two threads). I used these:
Then these:
Worked like a damn charm.
Why buy Chinesium, when you can just buy actual Hecho en Duitsland Hazet wrenches for even less?
​
Bro, the exact same thing happened to me. Buy this kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJBNGN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_T85ZRSQ75XQHAEQMX55N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 it’s aluminum and won’t ever break again. All you have to do is unbolt the plastic one and bolt this new one and pull off the old hose clamp and use the one provided. I did it on my car and took maybe 20 mins. So cheap and easy to do.
so long as the threads are not damaged, i would just spray the area with Fluid Film, put a little anti-seize on the bolt threads, and forget about it. that's no big deal.
Get a stethoscope and place around different parts of the engine to see where the sound is coming from.
Charging pad is a nice touch but I recently purchased this, it's a game changer
Auckly Wireless Car Charger, [Electromagnetic Sense] Qi 15W Fast in Car Wireless Charger Automatic Sensor Phone Holder Vent Mount https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08GY1VLDK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_T45N1GJFFD0Q9NB58645
Thanks for your comment, I don't have ISTA, do you think this cable would allow me to connect and read the codes? OBD cable
I mean the larger pull handle that always gets gunky and falls apart I have these for other doors. It's 2013 model if that makes a difference
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M5GVXVD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VC81K37E5JZV199E06BP
Gotcha, in that case it looks like you need a "pull strap/clasp". Unfortunately, realoem is not super clear about what part you need but you might be able to enter your VIN and narrow it down
If you just wanted to get matching covers, here are the driver's side ones on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08M5TC72G/ref=
From my little bit of searching, I believe you are looking for this part but I have to say I am not 100% sure: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?id=VB73-USA-09-2006-E90-BMW-335i&mg=51&sg=50&diagId=51_5836&q=51419150337&series=E92N
You'll need trim panel removers to pop it off. Order some replacement grommets before you take it out too, they break easily. Not sure if this is your model but this is what they look like.
You can find downloads to cracked software online or buy packages of cracked software and load up on your own laptop. I bought this which comes with all diag and coding software and quality cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BCLDR93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Price has gone up since I bought it a couple years ago but it comes with detailed instructions and latest files. If you have problems setting it up, a person will remote into computer and set it up for you.
I bought a piece of shit laptop off FB marketplace, wiped it, and went through install process. You don't need a powerful or new laptop. I'm running windows 10, don't need XP or 7 anymore.
I'm happy with it especially since I can code car now. But it is not the most convenient thing to use for diag.
For convenient code scanning/resetting and some programming (injectors, airbag, battery reg, etc), I use Foxwell NT510. It's so much easier to use than the laptop setup but not nearly as powerful as diag software on laptop. But in reality, most of my diag can be done through foxwell
Here is your Vehicle Inquiry in .xps format
http://www.filedropper.com/pn62730
The Rod bearing recall does not apply to the vehicle you listed.
SI B11 04 04 only applied to vehicles with S54B32 produced from 02/12/2001 up to 05/22/2003.
Your prod date is 2005/04.
I used a combination of these two items when I did all the fluids on my F10 X-Drive:
https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-38-in-drive-long-reach-dual-flex-head-ratchet-67994.html
Titan 16141 9-Piece Low Profile... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CGZOBW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I don’t remember having a big issue with the transfer case once I removed the support bracket next to it.
You can tell if it's antifreeze by the sort of sickly-sweet smell it will have.
If you're going to DIY this it's a good idea to get a cooling system pressure tester and find out exactly where the leak is. I have this one. It's pretty decent for the price and it does have the e90 cap adaptor (although I think the manual is wrong on which cap for the e90... You want the one for e46.)
+1 on the mickey mouse flange as a likely culprit. Replace it with metal. If the hose is soft you should replace that too, but still replace the plastic flange on the new hose with the metal one.
If you do need to replace that hose consider just going through and replacing all the coolant hoses. It's not that expensive although it is a pain in the ass to get to the back of the thermostat and water pump. And that's right where the mickey mouse hose puts you.
I recently went through a bit of a nightmare with coolant hoses blowing on my 335 n55. Once you're in there just do everything and you'll have piece of mind.
It’s an EV1 fuel injector connector.
Bosch 1287013003 Fuel Injector Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CNZF7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_SJ4T8S6CY6DYFHCY1ASS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Fuel Injector Connector EV1 Type - 4 PACK Plug Clip Pigtail by Rotary13B1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX7BVWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X7YFXGEXMM3PV36QY47K
They mean leave an open box in there. But you could also remove the floor mats, sprinkle it on the carpet and the vacuum it up the next day. That will help. If there’s still smells I reccomend leaving two of these under the front seats and trunk: NIYIKOW Nature Fresh Bamboo Charcoal Air Purifying Bags (4 Pack x 200g), Charcoal Bags Odor Absorber, Moisture Absorber, Odor Eliminator for Home, Car, Closet, Pets, Basement