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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Cartalk:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Cartalk:
ConsumerReports.org
eHow
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eBay
Dropbox
Walmart
Facebook Marketplace
TinyPic
Slickdeals
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Instructables
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The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/Cartalk:
Torque Pro (OBD 2 & Car)
Torque Lite (OBD2 & Car)
aCar - Car Management, Mileage
Ulysse Speedometer Pro
Piston (OBD2 & ELM327)
Carly for Mercedes
Media Button Router
The most popular reviews in /r/Cartalk:
Volo FS2-HHO edition Fuel Chip for 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.8L 5.3L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K6GK9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V9B7CbKWD1SA6
This example is for a grand prix, but they're sold for hundreds of cars on amazon
There is a chance that the threads are ok and it just worked itself loose. Using a round bottle brush of the appropriate diameter, clean the spark plugs hole out thoroughly using a small amount of wd40 or pb blaster in the brush. Then try a fresh plug and see how well it goes in. If you feel a lot of resistance you can try chasing the threads with a spark plugs thread chaser. Again, use some wd40 or pb blaster. If that doesn't work, you can try a spark plugs thread repair kit, however they only work half the time, more or less. If that doesn't work, then you will be removing the cylinder head and having it repaired with a time sert. Do NOT use a helicoil to repair this. They do NOT work for shit for spark plugs.
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Thread-Repair-Reamer-Cylinder/dp/B00QKPB620
In about 5 minutes I found a passenger headlight for $258, and an OEM bumper cover for $421. The hood is around $800 for OEM but the damage posted is obviously repairable.
IMHO, you'd have to try hard in order to spend more than $2,500 fixing this. Your old man probably knows this and is going to pocket the difference between his all-new-OEM dealer-priced parts he may or may not need, and the real repair.
Looks like a rubber-mounted weight attached to an engine mount, so probably a vibration dampener.
You can get the whole assembly on Amazon for $23 and replace just the broken bit: https://www.amazon.com/DEA-A4320-Front-Engine-Torque/dp/B008JPUB02
Never ever use acetone on plastics.
It looks like someone has already used too aggressive of a cleaner on.
Try a little Dawn on a microfiber towel followed by a plastic polish like Nexus.
Novus 7136 Plastic Polish Kit - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CBX5QEZ1D06VE8GEYSX5
Good luck-
If you have a drill, there are rubber wheels you can get called something like "decal remover"
Edit: here it is. I ordered some and have used them on my car and I use them at work all the time (at an audi dealer) to remove adhesive. Just make sure the windows closed cause there will be a bit of rubber shavings
https://www.amazon.com/Follex-ERW-Decal-Eraser-Wheel/dp/B00BMU9CEM
IRWIN BOLT-GRIP Extractor Expansion Set, 5 Piece, 394002 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QW6K8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E9AeBbE799MRF
Buy this. Also get the ‘male version’ where it’s the opposite as well. Never had these fail on me before. Just make sure you smack it on good with a hammer.
You’re welcome.
Do you want to keep the car forever? If not, and you want to keep its resale value, use Plastidip. It will peel off if you find you don't like it anymore or want to sell the car, it's pretty cheap, and all you have to do is mask off the tires (roll of masking tape, an old newspaper, and a deck of cards will do it) and spray. They have it in a matte black finish for about $8 a can I believe, and you can use a can per wheel. It can come out very nice if you put care into it.
my wheels looked like that after a winter of salt and grime. i tried to scrub it off but nothing help. i bought this sonax wheel cleaner from amazon. not cheap at $26 a bottle, but it works great. spray it on, wait a few minutes for it to change color (i think it turns red?), then light scrub with a brush, and rinse.
That looks terrifying.
For around the same money you can get a proper 2-post lift.
Have you tried a 3 jaw oil filter wrench? Has teeth and gets tighter the more force you put on it. Use with a 3/8 breaker bar for great results:
Sort of like this thing: https://www.amazon.com/EvZ-Filter-Wrench-Adjustable-Remover/dp/B07DRVGK4S/
If you have access to a drill, an eraser wheel is by far the easiest way. Just make sure the surrounding paint is clean to prevent scratches. This is the one I have, I used it to remove body molding adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DDB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the kit I use every single day. Has every single adapter and both forward and reverse thread inserts. $20 to never have this problem again. Sold my Bluepoint kit for this because this one was better.
https://www.amazon.com/Sagging-HEADLINER-REPAIR-RETAINING-PINS-Set/dp/B002Z04XGK
They're super simple. You basically just screw them into the headliner, holding the soft fabric in place.
This is not the proper way to do it, but rather the cheap/easy way. What it looks like (messily done):
Look easily repairable.
Go to AutoZOne / ORiley or whateve rbox store auto store you have nearby and but a plug kit.
https://smile.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K
Dig out whatever it is, ream the hole with tool in kit, insert plug with other tool, cut off excess plug material.
i just use a $12 obd2 dongle and Torque Pro on my phone.
Do you like the car?
Valve cover gasket is an easy DIY job in 90% of cars. And if yours isn't leaking bad, might just need bolts tightened or to be ignored. (a tiny bit of oil stain around the bottom is a sign that it's leaking - but doesn't mean impending doom. A large wet spot of oil, on the other hand, is probably a bad sign.)
Major tune up parts - Plugs are cheap. Coils, I have no idea - but ebay or rock auto does. I wouldn't change the coils till you've done the plugs.
EVAP code might be as simple as a loose gas cap.
Blinking CEL indicates a misfire - bad plugs can cause this, especially if it's got 62k miles.
Timing belts are cheap to buy and expensive to install. DIY is possible, on a scale of 1-10 in difficulty it's probably a 7.
Plugs are a 2. Coils are probably a 2 as well. Same with wires. If you do them all at the same time even easier.
Rear brake pads - also cheap to buy, should be under $100 to have installed, but an easy DIY too.
How'd you bend the rim, and how badly bent is it? I'd probably need a picture before advising a course of action on that.
I can find parts for my 20 year old nissan that was never sold in north america at all, I'm sure you can find parts for your 7 year old suzuki that was. Ebay, amazon.com, rockauto.com all sell parts. So does every auto parts store. They'll all be able to get basic stuff like that for your car.
If you wanna start DIYing stuff, there's no time like the present! http://www.ehow.com/how_6200022_change-belt-2004-suzuki-forenza.html for the timing belt install, that's by far the hardest thing to do on your list.
If you don't like it anyways and want something new, now's probably the ideal time to get into something else vs spending the money on this. If you put it up on ebay/craigslist/whatever for $2-3k the way it sits you'll sell it nearly instantly.
Replacing a thermostat is probably one of the easiest and most straightforward jobs there is on a car (barring something exotic, or a Subaru). There's even an e-how on it for your car: http://www.ehow.com/how_6081166_replace-thermostat-2006-chevolet-impala.html
Try a motorcycle alarm in the driver's side door pocket (and leave the door unlocked). The cheap ones are about $10, but are still loud enough to possibly get them to move on after opening the door. This is one I used for a while (on an actual motorcycle), and I was pretty happy with it. Battery only lasted about 3 months though.
The Michelin Defender is one of the best longest lasting. Consumer Reports has a bunch of articles. Tire Rack was also helpful. Costco switches between Bridgestone and Michelin. If you give it sometime Michelin will come up again.
The symptoms you described sound like the tires have different tred depths left. If this is the case maybe (unlikely) to shave the tires.
I found this comment left on slickdeals really helpful.
09-15-2017 at 08:53 AM#54
Just picked up the "Michelin-X Tour A/S T + H" .
In case anyone looking at the "Michelin-Defender T + H" tires take a look at "Michelin-X Tour A/S T + H" instead they are cheaper and the same tire. The Michelin-X Tour A/S T + H is the club version of the Defender tire. Did a chat with Michellin support and they said "they are the same tire, The Xtour is the club version of the Defender T+H,".
2014 Honda Civic, Black. Just got it cleaned at Carwash Crew.
Sorry for the newbie question - I'm the first in my family to own a car so I'm not sure what's going on.
There's also a scratch like this on the top of the trunk.
2006-2008 and some early 2009 models have a engine block cracking issue which would cause the coolant to leak. Honda extended the warranty I believe.
If you want more to do check out his owners manual (or look it up if he doesn’t have it) and look at the maintenance schedule there is bound to be something its due for that has been missed whether its brake fluid, greasing suspension components or just a cabin air filter. For bonus you could get a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for it and at the very least familiarize yourself with all the different parts.
For extra extra bonus you could get an automotive textbook such as this or this which cover pretty much everything and will still be good even as you learn more as they are used in college automotive classes.
I bought a Bluetooth OBDII scanner from Amazon for under $25 and downloaded the Torque Pro app for my Android phone and tablet.
Under. $30 and I haven't found anything that it lacks.
heh, similar question was asked yesterday. that's the combination of brake dust, dirt/grime, and salt. use sonax wheel cleaner. my wheels were exactly the same last spring, and this stuff made them look like new.
spray it on, wait a few minutes (it changes color to red i think), scrub lightly with a brush, then rinse off. check out all the "before & after" pics in amazon reviews.
> Mazda Racing Protege
A what? The Mazdaspeed Protege had a 2.0L turbo, no header. Sounds like you found someone's old rice rocket.
> Well they are for the 1600cc 2L not the 2000cc 2L.
1600cc = 1.6L. This engine is called the ZM in Mazda nomenclature. This is definitely a header for a ZM.
It looks to be the OBX header: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Exhaust-Headers-99-03-Mazda-Protege-1-6L-DX-LX-ZMDE-/180792955970
As you can see it's about $175 new. I'd list it on a Protege forum for $75 and see what kind of lowball offers you get. What did you pay for it?
>I've never heard of this happening to any other cars.
No, this will happen to any car that has a wiper frozen to the windshield. You're not supposed to run them in that condition.
What do you need to do is reset the wiper motors. You will no doubt find more specific information on a Honda forum somewhere.
If I had no choice in pulling it into a garage, I'd probably get something like this:
obviously keep the heater well away from the tent walls, but the tent will help block winds and help keep some of the heat in. Set it up over the front/hood of the vehicle and shifted to the side you need to work and let it heat up a bit as cold metal will injury bare fingers very quickly and it sucks.
You can buy a tracking device that connects via battery and stays in the engine compartment. No need to use OBD2. It will work on any old car too.
Look for these in AliExpress and you can use them. There are open source applications that you can setup on the cloud for $10 a month with phone apps that can show you location of your car.
One such is TracCar.
Another is OpenGTS. There are potentially others that don’t use the OBD2 port.
OpenGTS and TracCar support a variety of cheap hardware.
You may also use LoJack.
I bought it a really long time ago, but it looks similar to this. You'll need an air compressor, I set mine to 90 PSI for Woolwax or 80 PSI for fluid film (it's a bit thinner) - https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-Pro-Undercoating-Gun/dp/B0070WTGZG
Here is a pretty popular one. It will pull a vaccum and then you can hook up cans of R134A and refill your ac system. A little over $100
It seems your e-brake should be on the right side of the driver's seat. Strange! If you don't have any luck finding it, perhaps the lever broke off and you can find a small opening where it should be?
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Ford_aerostar_1995_parking_brake_location
Just use Consumer Reports they have a great guide for buying used cars, and a vast database of reliability info on cars. It's as unbiased as you can get. Also, don't listen to anecdotal suggestions.
They exist, but in my opinion you’d be better off with some other kind of mount. They make mounts that attach to the dash (with a sticky pad included if you have some sort of textured surface on the dash). I use an older version of this mount and have been very happy with it.
The complete headlight assemblies are only $45 each on rockauto with new bulbs and sockets, that would be the best way by far. you get perfect clear new assemblies, really satisfying to put them on your car.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2001,legacy,2.5l+h4,1375084,body,headlamp+assembly,10762
or amazon, free shipping: https://www.amazon.com/Headlights-Headlamps-Subaru-Legacy-Outback/dp/B07735T5YM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=84001AE14A&qid=1559157524&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Could be a bit regulator-y. The garage presumably checked that there was a charge being applied to the battery, but I bet they didn't check how much....
http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5027374_car-voltage-regulator-work.html
No, but I would check very closely for leaking coolant.
That said, if that engine isn't part of affected years, they are extremely reliable if properly taken care of. I know of one owner who has (literally) over a million miles on his.
$41 on ebay DIY job unless you're completely retarded, and it sounds like you aren't.
As far as checking the exhaust restriction, if that car has a catalitic converter in a "normal" place and not right at the engine, that's easy to check too. Just disconnect the exhaust right in front of it and go for a short drive. If the car drives fine, there's your problem, and if it doesn't, well, then you know it's not.
If your mechanic has already done this than that's why he's saying what he is. Depending on where you live you can either hollow out the cat (free!!!) or buy one on ebay and have it put in ($75).
Nice DA integra... The stock box will be much cheaper to get from the junkyard.
That is not the right intake for the car though. I have seen high quality single tube intakes (from AEM, K&N, and others) for that car that clear both the distributor and the battery without multiple separate pipes. That looks like an intake that was cobbled together from random pieces, or the car was turbocharged and they removed the intake plumbing and slapped a cone filter on it to return to stock before selling it.
Even ebay has single pipe intakes that would likely fit better than that one. Just don't use the filter that comes with the ebay variety. Buy an AEM or K&n filter.
And don't drive without a filter.. you can always remove the 2 pipes and just put the filter right on the manifold, or buy a bicycle innertube and wrap the intake with a piece cut to fit in the area it was rubbing the distributor.
Finally, if you are hell bent on a brand new OEM parts, you could try http://acuraoemparts.com, as everything there is OEM but discounted like 15% or so from the normal dealer price. non-wear items like intakes are mostly out of stock now, but you can try.
Before I continue, I wanted to say you do not understand how much help you and everybody else have been to me! I really really appreciate it!
Right now it is raining outside (my luck) so I cant do much. I'll probably have to wait until tomorrow to really do anything. My friend is coming by later with his laptop and the connector to the car to do a diagnostics and seeing what will come up. Maybe there is an electric problem we wouldnt have known about without doing this?
So is this is what I'm supposed to be rotating? http://www.ehow.com/video_4467327_install-crank-pulley.html
What exactly does the starter look like? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYQRd9BQSvw this is located near the bottom of the vehicle?
I'm sorry if I'm asking too many questions, I'm just a young college kid who never got too much experience experience with cars. Im trying to work on that a bit lol
If it is something engine block and coolant related Honda has free engine replacement for that year Civics: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2014/03/free-engine-replacement-for-2006-2009-honda-civics/index.htm
had a 99 camry. just the struts IMO. hear any rattling when going at low speeds over slightly bumpy roads? these cars had suspension mount issues too.
easiest thing is probably to replace the entire assembly with a monroe quick strut. they often have a buy 3 get 1 free deal in october and maybe around now.
i think it is the suspension bottoming out, but you are right to suspect the exhaust too - the pipe hangs very low in these cars.
mine bottomed out too and i had to take speed bumps like i was a rice rocket, and given that mine was a stick... it was kind of ridiculous.
http://hubpages.com/hub/97-01-Toyota-Camry-Front-Strut-Mount-Strut-Replacement
This post is likely fake, as user phikshin33 spotted it's a stock photo.
https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/auto-mechanic-removing-dirty-air-filter-1085479
https://www.artofmanliness.com/articles/how-to-change-your-cars-air-filter/
Maybe jiffylube would like to know? :p
The track record over the last 15 years indicates that the battery is generally able to last the car's full life. Failure rates have yet to exceed 3% for the second generation Prius (5% for the first generation), and stories abound of taxi operators running the Prius for well beyond 300,000 miles on the original pack.
All in all, it's generally not worth worrying about the battery pack, as the track record has proven that it is a wear item more on the order of a transmission than a timing belt. And with no moving parts, as well as a hypercompetent battery management system, it's not hard to understand why.
My wife got this kit for her office chair. They walked her through it and it looked OK. Her clients never comment. vinyl/leather repair kit
Many tool companies have a battery fan in their 18/20V line.
I have the Ryobi one. My coworker has the Dewalt one. I know Milwaukee makes one too. They're not expensive, but the batteries can be.
If I were you, I'd get one of those, a battery or two, and a DC car charger for said batteries, as repeatedly killing your car battery dramatically shortens its life.
I'm sure there's even rechargeable battery fans that can be recharged over USB or something.
Realize that using a DC/AC Inverter is already horridly inefficient, then add to that fact that car batteries are purpose built for delivering large current quickly at the cost of not lasting very long before needing to charge (usually off the alternator), so attempting to use any starting battery from a car to deliver power over a long period of time is ill advised. Worse so when you're stacking the deck further by using an Inverter.
I'd look for another solution. Here's an $18 fan that runs on popular 18650 Lithium Ion batteries (commonly used in high drain flashlights, lasers, and vape devices), and it charges onboard without a separate charger.
I'd rather buy a half dozen of those than replace my car battery every six months.
3M Glass Polishing Compound -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007460F7Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
With this:
Griot's Garage 10665 3" Glass... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UQQMYI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It takes multiple passes but works really well
Googling the part number 96817255 in the second picture leads me to this Amazon page for a thermostat housing. You'll need to replace it before you try driving.
They are called grommets and you can buy a kit on Amazon
BIZOEPRO Grommet Tool Kit Grommet Press Punch Kits Grommet Machine Pliers Handheld Eyelet Kit W/with 500pcs 3/8 Inch (10mm) Silver Grommets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WS5C378/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ukzaGbQCRWNT3
Agree with everyone pointing to the battery. Now that it's cold, batteries have a hard time. A small discharge can drain a battery overnight. As it's already been said, alternators don't do a good job charging a battery. Get a trickle charger to maintain it.
And this is why I fucking HATE amazon canada:
$22 USD, doesn't ship to Canada (op's link above). Change .com to .ca, you get this fucking monstrosity:
$77 CAD!!!! Yes, it's being sold by a different seller, because BAFX doesn't have an account (I guess?) on Amazon.ca, but JFC Amazon, way to bend over your canadian customers.
Hexane will dissolve most glues without harming plastics. It flashes off really fast though, and wear gloves, it can soak through your skin. We do vinyl graphics on signs and the adhesive removers we use work well to. Rapid remover is one. Might have to order some online. Grimco is one of my suppliers but I’ll bet amazon has some too.
A standard AC service gauge set is $35 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-Diagnostic-Manifold-Freon-Refrigerants/dp/B07JLQTK9C
Dyes are fine.
Fun fact, Nissan factory AC systems include leak-detect dye with their refrigerant oil. It's almost like Nissan feels sorry for their customers...
They do make FM transmitters that you wire in-line to the antenna. When you flip a switch it takes over the antenna input so you don’t have problems with existing over the air stations overpowering it.
If/when the headlight restoration kit doesn't work as advertised, or, you'd rather not even mess with it, here's a brand new pair of headlamp assemblies for under $70
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XMNR3L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xvKyFbGCCDGQV
So just to preface, this is literally the dumbest thing I've ever heard. That said, get something more or less like this, then a car audio place shouldn't have much trouble wiring it up to a custom button or something. You can record your own messages to play.
I have used kits like this twice and both times was surprised how good the repair was. The last was a big cigarette hole on my glove box door. You would never find the repair.
Get a kit that has a plug-in iron, rather than the plate you hold against your clothing iron to get hot. The plug ins work better. Heat fuses the repair. Take your time with mixing the color.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81781-Ultra-Leather-Repair/dp/B0007TQWK6
I definitely recommend this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque
It has a ton of features and even modules you can download separately for additional features.
I picked up a bluetooth OBDII scanner on Amazon (this was quite a few years ago) for dirt cheap and it worked like a champ. I'm sure one can roll the dice on those fairly confidently these days but as always, research is never a bad thing!
I would not suggest a $1,000 motorcycle for a beginer, for one that will only get a very low end motorcycle reliability will be in question and more importantly, safety.
I reccomend either a scooter of sort or a beater car.
Here is an app for cheap cars. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.autopten.cheapcarsforsale&hl=en_US&referrer=utm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dorganic%26utm_term%3Dcheap+car+app&pcampaignid=APPU_1_PFbnWrDZB4qA0wKqkruYAg
Before you buy something from there check it over really well, if it dies within 1 mile after buying it's all on you.
Your brake pads have worn out and now metal is rubbing directly on the brake rotors, you'll need at least new pads, if not new rotors if the old ones can't be "machined" back to a smooth surface.
Some ebay sellers have put together some brake "kits" which is the pad and rotor. Example. A workshop shouldn't charge more than an hours labor to install.
you'd have to tell me which hose you disconnected. only thing i can figure that might change with a disconnected vacuum hose to the intake mani is a MAP sensor.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4478865_troubleshoot-map-sensor.html
Growling noises often come from a failing bearing on a belt driven component, such as the water pump, alternator, or a belt idler or tensioner pulley.
Taking it to a mechanic soon is an excellent idea, especially if it is a timing belt related component. If a timing component fails it can result in extensive internal engine damage.
If you want to try to identify the source in the meantime, you can use a mechanic's stethoscope (about $10 at auto stores) or a long thin screwdriver held against your ear to try to identify which part the noise is coming from. Just remember to be careful when working around belts or moving engine parts.
it is nearly pointless to use a wideband on a naturally aspirated car/truck unless the motor itself is built. but if you really want to install it, it is easy. i have a AEM in my track car, them are highly recommended. it comes with a bung that you have welded into your downpipe about 3' from the engine where then sensor is just screwed in like your stock O2 sensor. it just must be installed at a 45 degrees upward angle or you will brake the sensor by flooding it with water. then just lead the wires into the car/truck to where you want to mount your gauge
I was going to buy these. They look like it's the struts only. My friend's dad owns a body shop so I was gonna bring all the parts to him to install.
This?We call it a tire machine
Dont wait. Go to a tire store and get them inspected and/or rebalanced. The tire maybe defective or it could be a number of things. The worst thing that could happen is that you have a blowout while traveling.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2012/03/early-warning-signs-of-tire-failure/index.htm
Sure, I watched the video.
A) It didn't tell us what tires they were talking about.
B) It claimed the studded tires were 1960's level tire technology, so that means they weren't testing modern-designed studded tires, which do exist but:
C) Tire Rack doesn't sell them, and so naturally they're not going to tell you that something they don't sell is better than the stuff they do sell.
Here's a more recent article from a source that isn't trying to sell you specific tires that says exactly the opposite:
JUST seen this about an hour ago at Wal-Mart. i need one myself.
Edit _ scroll down and youll see the window defroster. I think thats just a heater
Noise coming from one wheel? That sounds like a problem with the tie rod end or the CV joint. Here's a helpful guide to finding out what it is exactly.
IIRC, each remote has the same random number generator as the car, meaning that when the number generated by the keyfob matches the number generated by the car, the car unlocks. If the keyfob is out of sync, it will no longer work. This 'reporgramming' and 'button-pressing' discussed in other comments is simply re-syncing the keyfob with the car; restarting the number generator at both ends.
Check your owner's manual.
Make sure none of the other blades are rubbing on something. Maybe pull off the belt and make sure the alternator spins freely. Then you can take off the alternator and take it to any big auto parts store and have them test it for free.
You mean like this? https://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain
I won't say that's a parasitic drain because it drains the battery with the car running hahaha. But I'll check that ASAP. Thanks for the hint :)
The error code is for the transmission and there's no notes regarding it. There's also no notes to test to see if it's effected by the recall. Even if isn't and you said it was and they tested for it that should be documented.
If I was you I'd contact Honda and ask for their assistance. Here's a link with information I found
Without a pic of the dent, I can't say this for sure, but if the dent is new and is not on a rounded piece of bodywork, body shops can "pop" the dent using suction in a matter of minutes, for about the cost of the tool (which you can buy yourself on ebay, amazon, etc). If it is a shallow, wider dent, you can actually use a blow dryer and keyboard cleaner!
For deeper "hail" style dents, you can ask them about pulling.
As far as the chipped paint, you should have received a nail polish-sized bottle of touchup when you purchased the car. If not, just go to the dealer and pick one up. Buffing after dry blends the paint.
If the plastic is clear or lightly colored, no one's gonna notice the scratch, but if you really want to fix it, just get some plastic polish and buff it out. All the auto polish folks sell one.
Hope this helps.
EDIT: For larger, deeper dents, you can buy a pulling kit, but will need to drill into the center of the dent to pull it, then bondo the hole, sand, and paint with touch-up. For that, though, I have spent the extra dough to get it fixed or, usually - leave it be.
Where do you live? There’s no catch, free air checks and flat repairs, the ‘catch’ is they have an opportunity to inform you of the condition of your tires so since you’re there it may be a possible future sale
You can get Pennzoil Platinum at walmart for $22.47 to $25 minus $10 mail in rebate. You can also get $5 in ibotta rebate. Then you can pick whichever filter you want to use instead of being locked into the purolator classic See this slickdeals thread for more details.
Thank you so much man. It'll actually be more of a street car that can also drift. Also, I beg of you to not torture yourself watching for updates on this Reddit account 😂. You can find my Garage Amino here, or my [Instagram account here](www.instagram.com/excell.jp/). If you don't use either I can PM you to make sure you're up to date!
On my cars, especially my trucks I use a conventional style blade due to the window curve. But I use the PIAA Super Silicone blades. The best part is they're insert style. You can buy the whole wiper or save a bit and buy just the silicone insert when it's time to replace the rubber. They have a few other options but these I've found have worked the best for me and my cars. I have a set on every one of mine. They also include a windshield treatment with each wiper blade, wicks water away.
Hope this helps!
Edit to add, you can also purchase the window treatment, wipers and inserts on PIAA's website (2nd link.)
Here's the kit I used: Meguiar's G2980 Heavy Duty Headlight Restoration Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2D763D/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QJEJPZJ5K83M429FPN8B
Used some clear coat instead of the sealant that comes with it.
I wanted to get some more of the haze off but the pad was wearing out so I also used some wetdry sandpaper-800,1500
I already see something close enough around here on lifted trucks where they wrap LED strips around the heat shield using something like this.
If your asking. You may want to have a professional do it. However if you feel confident, this one is easy.
This will wire thst stereo up. Good luck. :)
Remember that the condenser is immediately 'downstream' from the compressor and before the receiver/dryer. So any debris will try to make it through the condenser before it gets to the dryer.
An aftermarket condenser is under $100. Most shops won't guarantee the compressor if the condenser isn't swapped.
The receiver/dryer will typically filter out anything from beyond that point, so typically the expansion valve/tube and evap core are okay (but your mileage may vary).
As others have mentioned, a proper AC flushing kit is what you need to use. https://www.amazon.com/Wisepick-Conditioning-Flush-Canister-1000ML/dp/B07H93NDWK/
'While it's apart' I would swap hoses if they look rough. Those rubber hoses don't last forever and if engine oil has spilled on them the rubber will degrade quicker.
you can get chinese knock offs for about twenty bucks...
I bought a plastic bolt and thread measuring tool for 8.00 at amazon. It's great for figuring out sizes. It's by Stainlesstown. here is a link. I hope its ok to post it.
Every mechanic should have one. OH and its bigger and thicker than it looks.
I have a 2001 with the stock radio and I use one of these for bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Smartphones/dp/B018E0I01I/ref=asc_df_B018E0I01I
I was tired of my aux cords breaking (lol) and this one has lasted me 3 years with no issues. You just plug it into your 12V cigarette lighter, find a static-y FM channel, adapt the bluetooth to the same channel, pair your phone, and you're good :)
If you don’t mind having pins show, I’d recommend these
They’re twisted, so they’re more secured than a regular old tack. Glue/adhesive is most likely a temporary fix. I had the same issue on my old Mercedes. These work amazing.
Battery Tender is the gold standard for battery maintenance. It comes with a disconnect lead that you can leave attached to the battery.
Give this solution a try, I’ve seen 303 work wonders on black plastic
303 (30382) Products Automotive Protectant - Interior And Exterior - Ultimate UV Protection - Helps Prevent Fading And Cracking - Repels Dust, Lint, And Staining - Non Greasy Finish, 16 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_6uc3Fb7DAZQHK
The tires can only be slightly different in width and depth, not actual rim size. For example, you can't put a tire that's 185/55/14 on a 185/55/15 wheel. You can slightly vary the width and depth by putting say a 195/55/14 on a 185/45/14 wheel. Obviously not recommended though.
Next as far as your radio goes, any radio will fit. You just need the correct installation kit. Want a 7 inch touchscreen navigation unit? Buy a double din installation kit and radio wiring harness. If you want your standard run of the mill small aftermarket stereo, get a single din kit. Amazon is your friend.
Metra 70-1858 Radio Wiring Harness For GM 88-05 Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEX8W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3-LOub00TY0AV
Metra 99-4544 Dash Kit For GM Multikitwith Eq Opt 82-04 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000281X60/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DaMOub0ETARQM
Edit: looks like the 92 century only has a single din hole. So scratch the double din idea.
>I bought the Duralast brand from Auto Zone. I do not plan on going with them again.
"Duralast. Built Like ASS"
>I found some on Rock Auto, but I have not heard of any of the brands they sell.
Looking at RockAuto for your 77' Datsun 280z I recommend Beck/Arnley on the cheaper end and Bendix on the slightly more expensive end.
On a side note, any time I look at parts on RockAuto I compare the cost on Amazon (just search the part number on Amazon's search -- ex. "BECK/ARNLEY 0726521"). Since I have Amazon Prime I generally get a better overall price with free shipping in two days than I do with RockAuto's slow ass shipping.
EDIT: Here is a link to BECK/ARNLEY 0726521 on Amazon. It has Prime shipping and is $22.29 from what I can see.
I have a lot of success with 3M VHB tape. It is amazingly sticky stuff and holds through all temperature ranges.
I'm also going to recommend an odd solution too (in the case that surfaces you are trying to attach to are full of gaps, creases or weird textures). Try some Shoe Goo (amazon link).
I'd just get a pack off Amazon like this, includes the harnesses too.
If you do not have the wheel lock key you will need a removal socket you drive on. You can get them in less expensive kits but here is an example. Wheel lock removal kit Amazon
I did a 20 second search on Amazon, 2002-2006 Nissan Altima and 2002-2006 Nissan Maxima Key Fob with DIY Instructions https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00684TAYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ROrZAb50WGP2N
All of these key Fobs are universal for Almost any nissan. It will come with instructions on how to program it. Come on, do a little googling OP!
If your worried about how beat they are I would check fo physical damage on the shock body and threads, then make sure the rod is straight and doesn't have any nicks in the metal. Nicks in the rod will tear seals that hold the oil in. check for oil leaks. The fluid in the shock should be good for years. But new oil does bring back a little bit of plushness. If they are leaking I would obviously change oil. If there not leaking I would run then. Lastly you can check for spring sag by finding out the original spring height and measuring. If all of those things are fine I'd just run them the way that they are until you have a failure. I've seen some abused Tein's hold up very well on Drift Missiles for a long time.
If you want them to last longer don't run them lowered all the way. They take way more of a beating that way.
Also You can get Tein Spanners on amazon for $30. https://www.amazon.com/Tein-Adjustable-Wrench-Coilover-Systems/dp/B002ZP0QFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526927163&sr=8-1&keywords=tein+spanner+wrench
That way you don't have to worry if they are a different size or not.
Last question so whats the Year Make and Model of this new ride? :)